Hey Brett! Good review. I've also owned this saw for a number of years, and to be honest, I'm still surprised how good it's been for me given that it cost barely over $500 when I bought it. I have found two things to be helpful that you also noted. The first is to periodically take the riving knife assembly out and clean it. It only takes a hex wrench and a few minutes and then I have months of trouble free use of that lever. I also found that the fence could lock out of square. It's because the fence locks front and back and the back part can grab before the fence squares itself up. So now I always push the fence against the rail before locking it down. That squares it up nicely every time. Hope those things help a little, and thanks for the video!
Thanks for that! I do push my fence against the rail when positioning and mine still locks out of square a lot of the time 🥲 I’ll try to spend a little time cleaning the riving knife lever works.
I started woodworking a year ago and decided to go with a used 4512 as there were plenty available in my city, I picked mine up for $350CAD in barely used condition. Since then I've upgraded the fence slides. There are 3D printer files that got my fence straight to within half a milimeter, highly recommended. I also found that the right side accessory wing perfectly accommodates the Bosch RA1181 router table! It was easy to attach. I too wish that I was able to get the top flatter, I may disassemble the unit at some point and see what can be done or replace the stamped steel sections with a wood top
Thanks for the content Brett. I have an old Jet JWTS contractor saw and a ShopSmith. I mostly buy used equipment but am hoping to by a new table saw this year. If possible, I will most likely get another contractor saw and if I can swing it, I will try for the Saw Stop.
Got mine for Fathers Day in 2016. Best table saw I have ever owned. The foot pedal to lift and lower the saw is at the front of the saw not the side and is easy to use. Yes it does klunk when you lower it. The fence is accurate every time I use it. Dialing in the 90 degree and 45 degree were easy and have not wavered from the first set. Good video.
There's an adjustment nut on the back end of the riving knife locking lever's pivot bolt that you can easily use to adjust how tight it gets. Mine keeps walking to tighter and tighter and I have to pop the riving knife assembly out and adjust it every so often. The suggestions about pressing the fence forward (with a good amount of pressure) before locking down is a good one - when I did this, and added a strip of UHMW tape to the front edge of each block in the fence that engage the fence's front rail, this works sufficiently well for my needs. Why is your foot lever to the side? I assembled mine with the foot lever at the front - easy to get to.
The foot pedal isn’t necessarily positioned that way on purpose. This was my first table tool that I ever assembled. Very much a novice. I put it together in my garage about two years before I ever built my shop in the basement. It didn’t seem to fit the other way (rectangle not square). It hasn’t seemed important enough to mess with it since. It works okay. Thanks for the added details about the riving knife. Another part that I don’t mess with very often.
Brett: Thanks very much for this video most helpful. I have a Ridgid TS4512 and am in the process of making a outfeed table. I have decided to go with Colin Knecht's design. Two comments: his table saw is a General, not the Ridgid; thus, he did not cover how to adjust the design of the outfeed table for the Ridgid to account for its extended fence of the end of the saw's back side. You obviously figure that out and I wish that you had covered that design feature a bit more in your video. I think that I figured it out but suggest that you might even do a new video showing details of your modifications in Colin's design that are required because of the length of Ridgid's fence. Thanks again.
Great suggestion! I may do that video as I’m preparing to replace it with my own version of the Outfeed/Assembly Table/Workbench/Dust Collector. But it going to be awhile I’m afraid.
My R4512 is still rockin'. Picked it up for $260 from the clearance aisle at HDepot one weekend, they were getting rid of their in-stock inventory. For another $270, I threw on some SawStop cast iron wings. The wings cost more than the table saw. LOL
Great value. Bought mine new for $349 about 10 years ago. Smooth running, good cast deck , poor fence, poor fence rails but they still work but not to what I would consider a professional level. I’ve been considering a new fence and rails. That would elevate this saw to a whole different level.
Hi, I'm acutally looking at a listing on marketplace for this same saw to replace my Craftsman job site saw. They're asking $400. It's less clean looking than yours, but seems to be in good shape otherwise. If you don't mind, I'd like to ask a few questions. I am also working out of a small space so trying to find something with better dust collection, Is the dust collection reasonably good? It looks like you've had to replace parts on yours, have you found that it is an easy saw to maintain? Are replacement parts easy to get, reasonably priced?
Dust collection isn’t great. It would be better if I had something hooked up over the blade guard, but I don’t have that. Parts are available from Ridgid and other non-OEM. I have only replaced the blade raising wheel and the “sheer pin” that I mentioned. To be honest, I can’t remember the pricing. Mine could use some lubricating “under the hood” but that would involve removing my outfeed table. Something I’m not too excited to do.
I fixed mine with a coiled spring pin. Super sturdy, durable, and not expensive. Built to handle the torque the finish nail is not. (This is about the blade raising wheel).
If you let that riving knife lever tighten to the point where it takes another tool to operate it, you are risking breaking that bolt. It's easy to fix. Remove the back panel. Lower the blade to line up the access hole with the nut on the backside of the lever bolt. One of the blade wrenches has a cut-out that fits the lever bolt on the blade side. Hold it and insert a 1/2 inch socket through the hole and loosen the nut by 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Depending on use , I have to loosen that nut about once per year to keep the lever working easily.
Thanks for that. My problem is that my outfeed table is attached to the access panel. It would be a pain in the rump to remove and replace. I’ll address it when I build my new outfeed table.
I have the TS3650, it does have cast iron wings, a little under powerd, the fence has its issues, once i learned the fence it's no longer issue...from what ive seen of the newer Ridgids its not as good as mine...fact i will upgrade and it wont be Ridgid thats Forsure, they have to fix the fence issue and the cheesy wings they offer now...
@@BrettsWoodshop oh Forsure I dint mean anything other then they need to fix the fence lol, suites my needs as well man..just hate having to worry about that fence, mine does the same, wants to kick left on the far side of the table, other then that a touch more power and I'd keep it forever lol... apologize if I come off wrong man, thanks for upload.
I've had mine since 2015 and its still going strong...I think this was the best saw they ever put their logo on. Tounge in cheek saying that because apart from some cosmetic differences its the same saw as at least three others in different paint. Your front-to-back on the cast iron is supposed to be 27in, dead on! That is something of a standard which is why if you wanted, you could buy the cast iron wings Rockler sells that are intended for the saw stop saws...or for that matter the cast iron and granite wings off older Ridgid and Craftsman saws that pop up on CL and FB marketplace from time to time. Rewiring it to 240v still draws the same amps, it just splits the load into two legs This was indeed the last Ridgid saw that could be rewired for 240v...the R4520 and the R4560 are 120 only. You can rotate the wheel assembly so that the pedal is in the front of the saw. I did that with mine because I thought the way the manual says to do it was a less-than-optimal placement. I did install the Delta T3 on mine cause the OEM fence is just terrible...maybe even unsafe since it wouldn't reliably pull square. Definitely worth the swap. OR...depending on how handy and DIY-inclined you are, check out Jer Schmidt's video. I am in the planning phases of a major modification of my R4512 and this is the fence that is going on it. ua-cam.com/video/4pudkvHFOfk/v-deo.html Might look for an R4512/20 group on Facebook. There is a fella on there that sells some parts that are supposed to solve that OEM fence issue. I'd also, look for Harold's Tabs. Those make truing the saw so much easier. Not something you mentioned you had done but definitely something I think should be. IMO, having used three different versions from different makers, the TS alignment tool that Rockler sells is tops!
@@BrettsWoodshop I think sharing is caring and I try to not be too obnoxious about it like too many out here do. Hope it didn't come across that way :)
![R4520 / R4512 Outfeed Table That Folds Away [Made from Scraps found in the Shop]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z30oSfZ808M/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Brett! Good review. I've also owned this saw for a number of years, and to be honest, I'm still surprised how good it's been for me given that it cost barely over $500 when I bought it. I have found two things to be helpful that you also noted. The first is to periodically take the riving knife assembly out and clean it. It only takes a hex wrench and a few minutes and then I have months of trouble free use of that lever. I also found that the fence could lock out of square. It's because the fence locks front and back and the back part can grab before the fence squares itself up. So now I always push the fence against the rail before locking it down. That squares it up nicely every time. Hope those things help a little, and thanks for the video!
Thanks for that! I do push my fence against the rail when positioning and mine still locks out of square a lot of the time 🥲
I’ll try to spend a little time cleaning the riving knife lever works.
I started woodworking a year ago and decided to go with a used 4512 as there were plenty available in my city, I picked mine up for $350CAD in barely used condition.
Since then I've upgraded the fence slides. There are 3D printer files that got my fence straight to within half a milimeter, highly recommended.
I also found that the right side accessory wing perfectly accommodates the Bosch RA1181 router table! It was easy to attach.
I too wish that I was able to get the top flatter, I may disassemble the unit at some point and see what can be done or replace the stamped steel sections with a wood top
Thanks for your input!
Thanks for the content Brett. I have an old Jet JWTS contractor saw and a ShopSmith. I mostly buy used equipment but am hoping to by a new table saw this year. If possible, I will most likely get another contractor saw and if I can swing it, I will try for the Saw Stop.
If you can, that's probably the best choice. Save your pennies!
Got mine for Fathers Day in 2016. Best table saw I have ever owned. The foot pedal to lift and lower the saw is at the front of the saw not the side and is easy to use. Yes it does klunk when you lower it. The fence is accurate every time I use it. Dialing in the 90 degree and 45 degree were easy and have not wavered from the first set. Good video.
Thanks
There's an adjustment nut on the back end of the riving knife locking lever's pivot bolt that you can easily use to adjust how tight it gets. Mine keeps walking to tighter and tighter and I have to pop the riving knife assembly out and adjust it every so often. The suggestions about pressing the fence forward (with a good amount of pressure) before locking down is a good one - when I did this, and added a strip of UHMW tape to the front edge of each block in the fence that engage the fence's front rail, this works sufficiently well for my needs. Why is your foot lever to the side? I assembled mine with the foot lever at the front - easy to get to.
The foot pedal isn’t necessarily positioned that way on purpose. This was my first table tool that I ever assembled. Very much a novice. I put it together in my garage about two years before I ever built my shop in the basement. It didn’t seem to fit the other way (rectangle not square). It hasn’t seemed important enough to mess with it since. It works okay.
Thanks for the added details about the riving knife. Another part that I don’t mess with very often.
Brett: Thanks very much for this video most helpful. I have a Ridgid TS4512 and am in the process of making a outfeed table. I have decided to go with Colin Knecht's design. Two comments: his table saw is a General, not the Ridgid; thus, he did not cover how to adjust the design of the outfeed table for the Ridgid to account for its extended fence of the end of the saw's back side. You obviously figure that out and I wish that you had covered that design feature a bit more in your video. I think that I figured it out but suggest that you might even do a new video showing details of your modifications in Colin's design that are required because of the length of Ridgid's fence. Thanks again.
Great suggestion! I may do that video as I’m preparing to replace it with my own version of the Outfeed/Assembly Table/Workbench/Dust Collector. But it going to be awhile I’m afraid.
My R4512 is still rockin'. Picked it up for $260 from the clearance aisle at HDepot one weekend, they were getting rid of their in-stock inventory. For another $270, I threw on some SawStop cast iron wings. The wings cost more than the table saw. LOL
Sounds like a nice setup. That’s quite a deal you got!
I have the saw, and haven't had the blade adjustment issue.
Great value. Bought mine new for $349 about 10 years ago.
Smooth running, good cast deck , poor fence, poor fence rails but they still work but not to what I would consider a professional level. I’ve been considering a new fence and rails. That would elevate this saw to a whole different level.
I totally agree! I can’t wait to pull the trigger on a new fence system.
what do i have to tighten when the arrive knife keeps falling down ? do you have a video to watch ?
I’m so sorry! I don’t know why that would be happening. I’m sure you consulted your owners manual, right?
I have the shear pin issue going on right now.
Frustrating isn’t it? Definitely a weak point in the system.
Hi, I'm acutally looking at a listing on marketplace for this same saw to replace my Craftsman job site saw. They're asking $400. It's less clean looking than yours, but seems to be in good shape otherwise. If you don't mind, I'd like to ask a few questions.
I am also working out of a small space so trying to find something with better dust collection, Is the dust collection reasonably good?
It looks like you've had to replace parts on yours, have you found that it is an easy saw to maintain? Are replacement parts easy to get, reasonably priced?
Dust collection isn’t great. It would be better if I had something hooked up over the blade guard, but I don’t have that.
Parts are available from Ridgid and other non-OEM. I have only replaced the blade raising wheel and the “sheer pin” that I mentioned. To be honest, I can’t remember the pricing.
Mine could use some lubricating “under the hood” but that would involve removing my outfeed table. Something I’m not too excited to do.
I fixed mine with a coiled spring pin. Super sturdy, durable, and not expensive. Built to handle the torque the finish nail is not. (This is about the blade raising wheel).
Great tip! Thank you!
If you let that riving knife lever tighten to the point where it takes another tool to operate it, you are risking breaking that bolt. It's easy to fix. Remove the back panel. Lower the blade to line up the access hole with the nut on the backside of the lever bolt. One of the blade wrenches has a cut-out that fits the lever bolt on the blade side. Hold it and insert a 1/2 inch socket through the hole and loosen the nut by 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Depending on use , I have to loosen that nut about once per year to keep the lever working easily.
Thanks for that.
My problem is that my outfeed table is attached to the access panel. It would be a pain in the rump to remove and replace. I’ll address it when I build my new outfeed table.
Does the trunnion attach to the top or the cabinet?
It’s attached to the cast iron top.
I have the TS3650, it does have cast iron wings, a little under powerd, the fence has its issues, once i learned the fence it's no longer issue...from what ive seen of the newer Ridgids its not as good as mine...fact i will upgrade and it wont be Ridgid thats Forsure, they have to fix the fence issue and the cheesy wings they offer now...
Live and learn, I guess. It suits my needs for now.
@@BrettsWoodshop oh Forsure I dint mean anything other then they need to fix the fence lol, suites my needs as well man..just hate having to worry about that fence, mine does the same, wants to kick left on the far side of the table, other then that a touch more power and I'd keep it forever lol... apologize if I come off wrong man, thanks for upload.
I've had mine since 2015 and its still going strong...I think this was the best saw they ever put their logo on. Tounge in cheek saying that because apart from some cosmetic differences its the same saw as at least three others in different paint.
Your front-to-back on the cast iron is supposed to be 27in, dead on! That is something of a standard which is why if you wanted, you could buy the cast iron wings Rockler sells that are intended for the saw stop saws...or for that matter the cast iron and granite wings off older Ridgid and Craftsman saws that pop up on CL and FB marketplace from time to time.
Rewiring it to 240v still draws the same amps, it just splits the load into two legs
This was indeed the last Ridgid saw that could be rewired for 240v...the R4520 and the R4560 are 120 only.
You can rotate the wheel assembly so that the pedal is in the front of the saw. I did that with mine because I thought the way the manual says to do it was a less-than-optimal placement.
I did install the Delta T3 on mine cause the OEM fence is just terrible...maybe even unsafe since it wouldn't reliably pull square. Definitely worth the swap. OR...depending on how handy and DIY-inclined you are, check out Jer Schmidt's video. I am in the planning phases of a major modification of my R4512 and this is the fence that is going on it.
ua-cam.com/video/4pudkvHFOfk/v-deo.html
Might look for an R4512/20 group on Facebook. There is a fella on there that sells some parts that are supposed to solve that OEM fence issue. I'd also, look for Harold's Tabs. Those make truing the saw so much easier. Not something you mentioned you had done but definitely something I think should be. IMO, having used three different versions from different makers, the TS alignment tool that Rockler sells is tops!
Wow, thanks for the great feedback and advice!
@@BrettsWoodshop I think sharing is caring and I try to not be too obnoxious about it like too many out here do. Hope it didn't come across that way :)
Not at all. Very informative. You know your tool.@@jzahirniak
it sounds like an old boat rigging
haha, yep
Ridge table saw with granite top
Only table saws you can find in stores anymore are the junky folding saws.
It’s sad to see the quality level going down instead of up.