Hi. I am Doing this job again and came across your video Thanks for that point on not to tighten that bolt on the bushing side before dropping the wheels on the ground. I think that’s where I screwed up last time I replaced it. The bushing didn’t even last 30k miles
I measured the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the fender before jacking it up. Instead of final torque with car and tire down, jack up hub to ride height then tighten nut. Hardest part about the job was getting that long bolt out without damaging the bottom of that plastic cover. Having an impact wrench makes the overall job much easier.
Thank you for sharing. Quick question? How did you tight the bolt/nut with the wheel on? If you turn the wheel all way out, does it give enough room to put the torque wrench? Please let me know. Thank you.
Assuming you're talking about the thrust bushing bolt...If memory serves, I left the wheel off and put a floor jack under the spindle and then lowered the jack until the car was at ride height on both sides. I believe I tried to tighten the bolt with the wheel on and car on the ground but you have no room to work with. It can be done, but it was taking forever (like 1/8 wrench turn at a time). So I used the jack to simulate having a tire on the car. If you have a set of ramps, you could drive the car up on those and then have enough room to swing a wrench. That's probably what I would recommend.
@@jcx2bby first of all, thank you so much for your prompt response. Yes, that’s what I was talking about the thrust bushing side. I saw another guy in his UA-cam channel doing exactly the same thing, putting the jack stands under the spindle and lowering the car onto to them but I wasn’t sure if this was safe but I guess is safe to do it that way. Good news, job is completed with couple of mishaps from the shop where I took the bushings to be pressed-in. So, they put the new guy to do the job and he destroyed one of BMW bushings and ended up with an aftermarket. And lost all weekend & Monday. And by the the way, it was not cheap, $90 for the two. So guys, buy the complete arm, learn from my mistake and you can get this done i your garage in 2-3 hours. So now the good news, I didn’t have put the jack stands under the spindle. Put the wheels back, put the car on the ground and there was plenty room to tight the bolt with the torque wrench. But, you need to partially remove the the lower plastic protective splash. It’s only held by couple of plastic rivets and 5-6 screws. Thank you.
If you Google it, you'll see 80Nm thrown around, but that's only like 60ft lbs. I probably torqued closer to 80 or 90 ft lbs because I couldn't find the source of that 80nm figure.
Hi. I am Doing this job again and came across your video
Thanks for that point on not to tighten that bolt on the bushing side before dropping the wheels on the ground. I think that’s where I screwed up last time I replaced it. The bushing didn’t even last 30k miles
Yes sir, that'll do it. We've all made that mistake once before, no sweat, you will make that bushing last forever this time. Thanks for commenting.
27mm or 1 1/16 thank you great video
Good tip!
I measured the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the fender before jacking it up. Instead of final torque with car and tire down, jack up hub to ride height then tighten nut. Hardest part about the job was getting that long bolt out without damaging the bottom of that plastic cover. Having an impact wrench makes the overall job much easier.
Nice tip! Hadn't thought about doing it that way
Thank you for sharing. Quick question? How did you tight the bolt/nut with the wheel on? If you turn the wheel all way out, does it give enough room to put the torque wrench? Please let me know. Thank you.
Assuming you're talking about the thrust bushing bolt...If memory serves, I left the wheel off and put a floor jack under the spindle and then lowered the jack until the car was at ride height on both sides. I believe I tried to tighten the bolt with the wheel on and car on the ground but you have no room to work with. It can be done, but it was taking forever (like 1/8 wrench turn at a time). So I used the jack to simulate having a tire on the car. If you have a set of ramps, you could drive the car up on those and then have enough room to swing a wrench. That's probably what I would recommend.
@@jcx2bby first of all, thank you so much for your prompt response. Yes, that’s what I was talking about the thrust bushing side. I saw another guy in his UA-cam channel doing exactly the same thing, putting the jack stands under the spindle and lowering the car onto to them but I wasn’t sure if this was safe but I guess is safe to do it that way. Good news, job is completed with couple of mishaps from the shop where I took the bushings to be pressed-in. So, they put the new guy to do the job and he destroyed one of BMW bushings and ended up with an aftermarket. And lost all weekend & Monday. And by the the way, it was not cheap, $90 for the two. So guys, buy the complete arm, learn from my mistake and you can get this done i your garage in 2-3 hours. So now the good news, I didn’t have put the jack stands under the spindle. Put the wheels back, put the car on the ground and there was plenty room to tight the bolt with the torque wrench. But, you need to partially remove the the lower plastic protective splash. It’s only held by couple of plastic rivets and 5-6 screws. Thank you.
@@ggua92722 outstanding update, thanks for taking the time to post it.
@@jcx2bby No, thank you for sharing your DIY video and for answering my question.
@@ggua92722 heck yeah man, this is what I love about UA-cam. Cooperation amongst strangers!
do you happen to know the torque spec on that 12-point nut?
If you Google it, you'll see 80Nm thrown around, but that's only like 60ft lbs. I probably torqued closer to 80 or 90 ft lbs because I couldn't find the source of that 80nm figure.
For F15, its 80Nm as per FCP video