Thanks! This sled is still a mainstay in my shop. Use it all the time. I keep it leaning up against the saw ready to go. It's been a great help building my kitchen cabinets.
Thank you, Mr. Ferris, for the teaching of the "5 cut test." I will definitely need to do that. When you have time, I would like your advice, please. I am hoping to make a flag display case for my dad's (and hero) casket flag because he served in the Korean War. Have you ever made a flag display case? Do you have any recommendations? Thanks, again. Please, keep up the inspiring work.
Thank you Dana for such kind words! I haven't made one myself, but we have one for my father-in-law's service flag. If you imagine a square box, then cut it in half corner to corner, that's how they are built. So at the top of the triangle the two boards come together with a 90 degree angle joint. Then at the bottom, the two corners are each 45 degrees. So if you are going to miter each joint, set the chop saw at 1/2 of the desired angle. You'll cut a groove (dado) in the side pieces to receive plastic or glass for the top, and some thin board for the back. Have a great day!
This was very helpful, thank you! Just wanted to mention a quick fix- at 5:30 you suggest doubling up on the springs if the miter slot is too wide, which unfortunately was the case for my Dewalt DWE7480. Doubling up on the springs won't do any good, in fact you can max them out just by tightening them all the way as is. What I ended up having to do is remove the slide from the sled, remove all the hardware and drill out the holes just a little wider so that the ball bearings can protrude out just a bit further. A lot of extra work but it now fits nice and snug!
@@StanFerris I just got home from he Rockler store with this cross cut sled and look forward to using it as soon as the weather breaks as my garage is unheated. I will require numerous 100+ parts that are identical. 1" x 10" x .375" thick. These will be assembled into equilateral triangles. When glued, and viewed from a vertical perspective, it will look like an equilateral triangle with a wall thickness of .375". Viewed from a horizontal perspective, it will look like a 1" x 10" rectangle. Sort of like the "gizmo" that is used to set up balls on a pool table. I need to cut a 30 degree angle on each end, and glue them. I know that it is a tall request but ... I could use your advice about this upcoming project. I have a Craftsmen portable table saw and the sled I purchased today. What kind of set up would you recommend to cut these identical parts ... and a set up for gluing them. Thank you in advance fro your help.
Not sure what wood you will be using, but if I were making a lot of these triangles, I would start by making 1" strips. When I am doing cabinets I never try to make just one cut to achieve my final dimension. So I would cut my strips a fraction wider than the 1" so that after that first rip, I can rotate the part and send it through the tablesaw again with the freshly cut edge against the fence. I do that a standard routine on just about everything I trim to size. Then start by cutting one of the strips down to say 10.25" in length at least. Use a stop block clamped to the sled back, as the metal one on the sled will not work well when an angled cut is against it. Take one piece and set the sled to your 30 deg angle (assuming you've set up your sled so that it's 0 mark will make a perfect 90 deg cut). Stand the strip on edge (and clamp it tight to the sled back) and cut your 30 deg as close to one end as possible. Flip that part around and (moving your stop block each cut) make a series of cuts to get to the 10" in length you desire. Now you can use that position of the stop block to cut two more segments. Check the fit of your 3 pieces and make tiny adjustments to the angle if necessary. Here's a small box I made that may be of interest: ua-cam.com/video/iGqRxexbcjE/v-deo.html
Hey Stan - Doing a rehab job and had to use my table saw to custom fit some thresholds and filler panels - just enough to be frustrated about not having a sled for my table saw. In your opinion, what are the advantages of the Rockler type of sled vs one that extends across the whole table or something like what you have but with a support panel on the waste side?
Hey Bob! The Rockler comes into it's own if you are cutting a lot of angles. Doing cabinets and cutting panels of plywood, etc., I use just a diy plywood sled. I even made an adjustable "leg" with a rollerblade wheel on it to clamp to a long piece that hangs too far off to the left of the table that rolls on the floor and supports the work as you push it through. If you have a sled that goes on both sides of the blade, then you have to connect the two panels with a front and back wall. That makes the sled large and it limits the size of the pieces that will fit. Also, I always make the first cuts a bit too big and cut the pieces down to exact size once they are not so big. I haven't noticed any problems not having a support on the waste side of my cuts.
Great review. Looks like a good product. Like on a normal sled you could have a board on the right of the blade, same thickness as the Rockler to help with the fall off piece. Also, I don't want to be the math police but the error is 4 times not 5 times. The 5th cut is the reference.
Thanks John! I didn't buy that extra piece (maybe I should have). But since I've never had a sled that was connected on both sides of the blade, I guess I didn't see the need for it. I've never had any real tear-out issues with just the one sided sled. Sorry about the math-- not exactly my strong suit! :)
Definitely messes with my head trying to imagine what's going on... so that's why I recut and measured again. I never do this test when building in the shop as it's unnecessarily precise as there are too many other larger parameters that contribute to out of square cabinets, etc. For example, just pushing the wood too aggressively can cause my blade to wobble and make an untrue cut, or slight movements of the wood during the cut if I don't clamp it tight. Overall, the fence has been so helpful for me. It is always leaning up against the saw ready to use. Thanks for commenting!
Hey Stan, I've got a tip for your new sled. Instead of fooling around with that Hold Down Arm, why not remove it completely? Rockler Woodworking has a "Cam Clamp" which is much quicker gets the job done and saves you time! Cam Clamp comes in 5/20" thread or 1/4" thread it's your choice. Give it a try!
Hello Aundre! It should work with any type saw that has channels to accept a sliding mitre gauge. Most saws do (although once I had a portable table saw that instead of the mitre gauge a section of the top moved). If you do frequent precise cuts at an angle vs rip cuts or straight cut offs, the Rockler should work fine, although you can also make your own sled, or modify the mitre gauge that came with the saw.
I don't know who Elizabeth is, but I was touched by your love. I will be praying for you.
My daughter. Blessings to you as well!
This was a great find for a new channel. Great explanation Stan!
Thanks! This sled is still a mainstay in my shop. Use it all the time. I keep it leaning up against the saw ready to go. It's been a great help building my kitchen cabinets.
Great review on the crosscut sled. This gives a good description of what you get for this product. Thanks for that!
Thanks for watching, Russ!
Wonderful and informative review! The only problem is now I want one!
On sale this month!
Thank you, Mr. Ferris, for the teaching of the "5 cut test." I will definitely need to do that. When you have time, I would like your advice, please. I am hoping to make a flag display case for my dad's (and hero) casket flag because he served in the Korean War. Have you ever made a flag display case? Do you have any recommendations? Thanks, again. Please, keep up the inspiring work.
Thank you Dana for such kind words! I haven't made one myself, but we have one for my father-in-law's service flag. If you imagine a square box, then cut it in half corner to corner, that's how they are built. So at the top of the triangle the two boards come together with a 90 degree angle joint. Then at the bottom, the two corners are each 45 degrees. So if you are going to miter each joint, set the chop saw at 1/2 of the desired angle. You'll cut a groove (dado) in the side pieces to receive plastic or glass for the top, and some thin board for the back. Have a great day!
This was very helpful, thank you! Just wanted to mention a quick fix- at 5:30 you suggest doubling up on the springs if the miter slot is too wide, which unfortunately was the case for my Dewalt DWE7480. Doubling up on the springs won't do any good, in fact you can max them out just by tightening them all the way as is. What I ended up having to do is remove the slide from the sled, remove all the hardware and drill out the holes just a little wider so that the ball bearings can protrude out just a bit further. A lot of extra work but it now fits nice and snug!
Wow, you went the extra mile! Mine tightened up ok as is. Thanks for the tip!
Oh crap, I just bought one for my DeWalt, Dag nab it !!!!
Thanks for the video. I have that same saw in your intro, was my Grandfather’s. Cool rip saw.
Yes, Gary, that saw is cherished! That's great that your grandfather's saw was passed down to you!
Excellent review !!!. This is the tool that I have been looking for.
This sled is kept right next to my tablesaw and is my go-to unit for all sorts of crosscuts. Thanks for commenting!
@@StanFerris I just got home from he Rockler store with this cross cut sled and look forward to using it as soon as the weather breaks as my garage is unheated. I will require numerous 100+ parts that are identical. 1" x 10" x .375" thick. These will be assembled into equilateral triangles. When glued, and viewed from a vertical perspective, it will look like an equilateral triangle with a wall thickness of .375". Viewed from a horizontal perspective, it will look like a
1" x 10" rectangle. Sort of like the "gizmo" that is used to set up balls on a pool table. I need to cut a 30 degree angle on each end, and glue them. I know that it is a tall request but ... I could use your advice about this upcoming project. I have a Craftsmen portable table saw and the sled I purchased today. What kind of set up would you recommend to cut these identical parts ... and a set up for gluing them. Thank you in advance fro your help.
Not sure what wood you will be using, but if I were making a lot of these triangles, I would start by making 1" strips. When I am doing cabinets I never try to make just one cut to achieve my final dimension. So I would cut my strips a fraction wider than the 1" so that after that first rip, I can rotate the part and send it through the tablesaw again with the freshly cut edge against the fence. I do that a standard routine on just about everything I trim to size. Then start by cutting one of the strips down to say 10.25" in length at least. Use a stop block clamped to the sled back, as the metal one on the sled will not work well when an angled cut is against it. Take one piece and set the sled to your 30 deg angle (assuming you've set up your sled so that it's 0 mark will make a perfect 90 deg cut). Stand the strip on edge (and clamp it tight to the sled back) and cut your 30 deg as close to one end as possible. Flip that part around and (moving your stop block each cut) make a series of cuts to get to the 10" in length you desire. Now you can use that position of the stop block to cut two more segments. Check the fit of your 3 pieces and make tiny adjustments to the angle if necessary. Here's a small box I made that may be of interest: ua-cam.com/video/iGqRxexbcjE/v-deo.html
thanks for the review!
You're most welcome, Ronaldo! I am still using the sled all the time. It's been a great tool in my small shop!
Very helpful! Thanks!
You are welcome, Michael! I use this sled all the time. I keep it leaning against the saw ready to go!
Hey Stan - Doing a rehab job and had to use my table saw to custom fit some thresholds and filler panels - just enough to be frustrated about not having a sled for my table saw. In your opinion, what are the advantages of the Rockler type of sled vs one that extends across the whole table or something like what you have but with a support panel on the waste side?
Hey Bob! The Rockler comes into it's own if you are cutting a lot of angles. Doing cabinets and cutting panels of plywood, etc., I use just a diy plywood sled. I even made an adjustable "leg" with a rollerblade wheel on it to clamp to a long piece that hangs too far off to the left of the table that rolls on the floor and supports the work as you push it through. If you have a sled that goes on both sides of the blade, then you have to connect the two panels with a front and back wall. That makes the sled large and it limits the size of the pieces that will fit. Also, I always make the first cuts a bit too big and cut the pieces down to exact size once they are not so big. I haven't noticed any problems not having a support on the waste side of my cuts.
@@StanFerris Thanks! Makes sense to me.
nice review! it was very helpfull
Thanks so much! Your channel looks great! Lots of production value in your presentations!
@@StanFerris thank you so much! i try to do my best and try to upload every monday! there are some great videos comming up
Great review. Looks like a good product. Like on a normal sled you could have a board on the right of the blade, same thickness as the Rockler to help with the fall off piece.
Also, I don't want to be the math police but the error is 4 times not 5 times. The 5th cut is the reference.
Thanks John! I didn't buy that extra piece (maybe I should have). But since I've never had a sled that was connected on both sides of the blade, I guess I didn't see the need for it. I've never had any real tear-out issues with just the one sided sled. Sorry about the math-- not exactly my strong suit! :)
Super helpful and clearly presented video. Thanks very much. I'm off to Rockler to purchase my sled. Hoping to apply the 20% off coupon!
Haven't regretted mine. Use it all the time and keep it leaning up against the saw always ready.
If the top measurement A is bigger than B (bottom), shouldnt the fence be moved away from the blade (or move the fence toward you (backward))?
Definitely messes with my head trying to imagine what's going on... so that's why I recut and measured again. I never do this test when building in the shop as it's unnecessarily precise as there are too many other larger parameters that contribute to out of square cabinets, etc. For example, just pushing the wood too aggressively can cause my blade to wobble and make an untrue cut, or slight movements of the wood during the cut if I don't clamp it tight. Overall, the fence has been so helpful for me. It is always leaning up against the saw ready to use. Thanks for commenting!
Hey Stan, I've got a tip for your new sled. Instead of fooling around with that Hold Down Arm, why not remove it completely? Rockler Woodworking has a "Cam Clamp" which is much quicker gets the job done and saves you time! Cam Clamp comes in 5/20" thread or 1/4" thread it's your choice. Give it a try!
Thanks, Paul! I'll check out that Cam Clamp!
Do u recommend it for a jobsite table saw?
Hello Aundre! It should work with any type saw that has channels to accept a sliding mitre gauge. Most saws do (although once I had a portable table saw that instead of the mitre gauge a section of the top moved). If you do frequent precise cuts at an angle vs rip cuts or straight cut offs, the Rockler should work fine, although you can also make your own sled, or modify the mitre gauge that came with the saw.