Walkaround 4Runner Brake System Upgrade and LSPV Delete
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- DISCLAIMER: I think it's obvious brakes are the most important system on your car. Please make sure all work is done to the standards that a dealership mechanic would conform to. If you are unable, please do not attempt brake work. Secondly, do not delete the LSPV. There are mixed opinions on this topic but I stand behind mine. The LSPV system is a constantly variable proportioning valve. No manual proportioning valve can claim to work as well. Also, when I removed the LSPV the rear brakes never worked as well. For reasons unknown, the automatic brake shoe adjustment system ceased to work after this mod. I dealt with this for less than a year before installing a functioning LSPV from the junkyard.
My LSPV has been leaking since I purchased the Runner. I decided to upgrade the whole brake system at once. V6 4Runner calipers and MC, Land Cruiser wheel cylinders, LCE rotors, stainless braided brake lines, manual proportioning valve, and a few other small odds and ends. These are easy but factory looking clean retrofit is not. See how I did it.
If you remove the LSPV then you must cap off the third line from the junction at the front brakes and install a proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I will also add this: I didn't leave it like this for even a year. Removing the LSPV caused the rear brakes to suck and the auto adjustment for the drums stopped working correctly. I get fed up with it and installed a working LSPV from the junkyard. I recommend refurbishing your OEM system rather than doing what I did with the LSPV.
TheAlexManVideos why nor add an edit to your video then?
Wait so is the video your new set up or the old set up?
Im in England, thanks loads for your fantastic information! your vehicle is so clean underneath! Mine has thick corrosion is on everything, and every fastener is a major pain in the ass to undo!
Great video! Thank you for being so detailed & clear on things.
After a bit of time with this modification, I do not recommend deleting the LSPV. Please read the description. I ended up replacing the LSPV.
TheAlexManVideos
So the mod displayed is not effective or it is?
Thanks
I thought I was pretty clear I no longer recommend this. Keep the LSPV, get a diaphragm, master cylinder, and calipers from a 1995 V6 4Runner and you'll be way better off.
From what I've read from other people who did this swap, the reason this didn't work out for you is because you have drums in the rear. Seems full disc truck owners are happy with the lspv delete.
Thank you for explaining which lines go to what, I am installing a wilwood PV in stock location, but wanted to know what line went to the front brake.
I have the same problem with my lspv valve is leaking and rust
You sir have just saved me a lot of time and anger lol
How do you adjust the proportions valve
Di you install on the rear breake line ..
Looks like it’s the top, but want to verify it’s the top line running along the firewall that is cut to fit the manual valve correct?
Mannnnn I wish I knew this before hand
I got some EBC pads and rotors and they were like yours, drilled and slotted. Except my drilled holes are not drilled all the way throught. I looked this up and it says rotors that have holes drilled all the way through have a higher chance or warping. every hear this?
I also heard they crack as well. Slotted is better than drilled for this application.
Check out ‘Engineering explained’ great video in slotted vs drilled.
Looks great. Something I will be doing since the lspv rotted away
I think your problem was you didn’t have a metering valve on the front brake system. Not having it caused the front brakes to apply before the rear causing the vehicle to become unstable. Back end wants to swing as soon the fronts come on, also unloading the hole back end of the truck.
Yep. It's still not as good as a modern Honda Accord or something but it's better than it used to be.
Question for the calipers what year or it doesn’t matter? Thx
If possible could you post a link to the flare fittings? I'm doing this to a 98 Tacoma and my set up is bit as handy as yours.....thx!
Did the system work normally after you took out the other line? I have Toyota landgruiser LJ70. I read from a offroad forum that if you take the secondary line out entirely the brakes dont work normanny afther that. Great video by the way.
But what about that that line u have to block off it goes up front to the power steering or something I imagine and wraps back out to the rear self leveler so just take that line or lines off that system and block the wholes 5/16 pulgs
I won't be removing my LSPV, just renew it, *but how did you find your other upgrades worked?* The better calipers and drum cylinder? I'm upgrading my 3L diesel to a 4L V8 and the brakes are something that were never too good. So double HP and torque means they need major attention...when I get to them.
The biggest upgrade was the dual diaphragm booster. The V6 calipers also are a cheap and easy upgrade. With the larger volume of the V6 caliper pistons you need the larger bore master cylinder. The larger wheel cylinders didn't make a huge noticeable difference but technically they should provide more brake force due to a larger bore and the same fluid pressure.
Magic, thanks. Great vids, by the way.
You don’t explain how you got rid of the p valve how you rerouted the new lines
I did make a separate video of the LSPV delete, however, I have since gone back and installed a new OEM LSPV. I would recommend keeping the LSPV. Nothing else works as good and no matter what you do you're hacking up a good braking system. Just my opinion, many people don't agree, but I do not recommend removing the LSPV.
Did you make the bracket for proportioning valve or buy it
+Patrick Ill I fabricated mine myself.
Your rotors are on backwards. The veins should be pointed towards the back.
They work either way. It's all personal preference. Only thing that matters is the internal vents if they are directional. Most of the time they are not except on high performance rotors.
Notice a increase in stopping power?
Ball joint spacers are upside down
Well, you're wrong.
I'm working on a 1994 sr5 same shit basically
Moog is absolutely terrible. I had two Moog ball joints go bad within less than 10,000 miles normal street driving.