Great explanation and appreciate the careful description!! I blew a rusted out brake line on my 2002 Tracker and will simply by-pass the LSPV after seeing the complicated tubing bent into it. It is located in front of the RR wheel high up. Not to mention the valve itself is no longer available (The vehicle is Suzuki built with a Chevy nameplate on it). That 1991 truck has a micro-fraction of rust on it compared to my Midwest vehicle. 30 years in CA= little rust. What rust? That axle line would be a cinch to replace with copper-nickel line. The 1991 is well worth repairing unless it has other major problems...
Very expensive, as you say, but I'd do it, especially considering the overall condition of the truck. I think forming new lines manually would save quite a bit, and shouldn't be too hard, but that valve is the big headache. Plus they've got a real expert doing the work, so it'll be done correctly!
@@DogRedful This is literally the case with my accord that has a few problems. I wanna get a camry and i keep talking myself up to it but I always kinda go "im so familiar with this car i could probably fix anything wrong with it, might as well shell out a little more money and have it make me money for another year"
Hi. I'm dealing with no brake force to stop minimun impulse advance on 1st gear. Master Cylinder and LSPV are new, but the problem remains. I really need and upgrade here.😵 Thanks
I had a little short box 2wd truck like this. It was a '90 and it was the last of the carbureted trucks for Toyota, I think, may be wrong. It was a great little truck though.
$600? I just replaced the load proportioning valve and L/H brake line for less than $100. Ever heard of eBay? Also the brake line and tool needed to bend the line including the screw ends, cost very little on eBay! The hard part is readjusting the Load Proportioning valve, thats a pain in the butt to be sure!
Can lowering a truck by 3 inches with lowering blocks cause the proportioning valve to send more brake to the rear thereby mimicking proportional valve failure?
Nice little truck that probably has a couple hundred thousand more miles in it. Worth the cost of repairs, especially if you can get parts at a scrap yard.
They are pretty old and even Toyotas eventually wear out. The cash for clunkers program in 2008-09 took a lot of older vehicles and sent them to premature scrap leaving many owners with no source for inexpensive used parts. Only in places like California will you find vehicles like this in NY they all rusted away years ago.
Not for this part. Anything you will find in the junkyard will be just as bad, and it's a matter of time before it fails in the same way. In my area, Toyota trucks get stripped really fast. My valve had the same issue, and I ended up putting on an aftermarket one, and got the other parts from Ebay, but I really still don't like how it stops. I may end up putting a manual one on, or re-doing it with the OEM one.
Had a similar part on my 1985 GMC pick up just by passed it, brakes worked better without the valve. Truck looks great underneath compared to what you would find in New England, most 90's Toyotas have gone to rust heaven. Locally we bend our own brake lines very easy, do it almost every week, have plenty of rusted out brake lines come in.
sense something that's not these anymore?trying to make adjustments for load weights?..the electric part of the part.how do you bypass that?.thanks.Curious.IF you bypass the valve,does the truck have a sensor that's trying to sence
After 180k miles , 300k km , 15 years can consider new break system, new cooling system for safely reason , after 20 years old many parts keep failing , can consider selling it
Just unscrew that prop valve and lever and throw them in the garbage, connect the rear brake line coming off the master cylinder to the brake line coming off the axle, and the brake line that goes to the proportioning valve that is teed into the front brakes on the driver side front wheel well is no longer needed, you remove and plug with 1/8 npt plug. Fixed and brakes better than oem less than 10$. Already did on both my trucks brakes better
How did this hold up. I’m thinking about doing it so I don’t have to buy a new valve for 200+ dollars. I read that it would cause lock up because I have discs in the front and drums in the rear
Thanks for sharing this information , glad you did this video, I have a 1985 model.
As always, very entertaining and informative!
Time to call John's Used Cars and Wreckers in Eureka to find a replacement. Well worth the call.
Great explanation and appreciate the careful description!! I blew a rusted out brake line on my 2002 Tracker and will simply by-pass the LSPV after seeing the complicated tubing bent into it. It is located in front of the RR wheel high up. Not to mention the valve itself is no longer available (The vehicle is Suzuki built with a Chevy nameplate on it). That 1991 truck has a micro-fraction of rust on it compared to my Midwest vehicle. 30 years in CA= little rust. What rust? That axle line would be a cinch to replace with copper-nickel line. The 1991 is well worth repairing unless it has other major problems...
I would fix it. These are really coming up in value and worth the fix
New subscriber watching from Al Khafji Saudi Arabia thank you for this informative video
Very expensive, as you say, but I'd do it, especially considering the overall condition of the truck. I think forming new lines manually would save quite a bit, and shouldn't be too hard, but that valve is the big headache. Plus they've got a real expert doing the work, so it'll be done correctly!
Wouldn't the labor of my manually forming the brake line plus cost of generic line exceed $70?
Other than a light on the dash,what is the effect on how the truck performs ?is it only a stopping issue or does it also cause acceleration problems ?
Interesting information.
Cut the brake line after the damage and re flare it , done
why not eliminate the valve and bend up a brake line
Nice job and video
Good stuff to know for the ASE A5!
What does that sensor do is that like the older version of the weight distribution thing
2 months of payments and your back to driving with a paid off vehicle that is how i look at it.
exactly my thoughts too. i say pay the money and keep on riding!
It's the devil you know versus a buying another devil that you know little about.
Yep and you know Peter will fix it right!
@@DogRedful This is literally the case with my accord that has a few problems. I wanna get a camry and i keep talking myself up to it but I always kinda go "im so familiar with this car i could probably fix anything wrong with it, might as well shell out a little more money and have it make me money for another year"
@@pod9363 That's why my son and I keep repairing his 2004 Accord.
have a good one.
thanks gor sharing .. u have a nice voice
Hi. I'm dealing with no brake force to stop minimun impulse advance on 1st gear.
Master Cylinder and LSPV are new, but the problem remains.
I really need and upgrade here.😵
Thanks
The proportioning valve just suddenly went out on my T100 Toyota. I'm thinking of replacing it with a manual bias proportioning valve
I had a little short box 2wd truck like this. It was a '90 and it was the last of the carbureted trucks for Toyota, I think, may be wrong. It was a great little truck though.
91’ was the last brother, I got one 😉
$600? I just replaced the load proportioning valve and L/H brake line for less than $100. Ever heard of eBay? Also the brake line and tool needed to bend the line including the screw ends, cost very little on eBay! The hard part is readjusting the Load Proportioning valve, thats a pain in the butt to be sure!
Can you buy flex line... or straighten out the old line? I see the problem...A Solution is normally included in the video??
I think u could cut the old section out flare it out and add a piece in either flexible or bend a small section.
Can lowering a truck by 3 inches with lowering blocks cause the proportioning valve to send more brake to the rear thereby mimicking proportional valve failure?
Nice little truck that probably has a couple hundred thousand more miles in it. Worth the cost of repairs, especially if you can get parts at a scrap yard.
Problem is you might not able to find those trucks in the junkyard. I rarely see any.
They are pretty old and even Toyotas eventually wear out. The cash for clunkers program in 2008-09 took a lot of older vehicles and sent them to premature scrap leaving many owners with no source for inexpensive used parts. Only in places like California will you find vehicles like this in NY they all rusted away years ago.
Right!
You do not need that stupid sensor, mine has a broken rod for 5 years, no problems eve..........
Time to send the customer to the junk yard for parts.
My thought as well!
Not for this part. Anything you will find in the junkyard will be just as bad, and it's a matter of time before it fails in the same way. In my area, Toyota trucks get stripped really fast. My valve had the same issue, and I ended up putting on an aftermarket one, and got the other parts from Ebay, but I really still don't like how it stops. I may end up putting a manual one on, or re-doing it with the OEM one.
Are there no aftermarket valves available?
There are heaps and they are cheap.
In Australia they are around $120
Had a similar part on my 1985 GMC pick up just by passed it, brakes worked better without the valve. Truck looks great underneath compared to what you would find in New England, most 90's Toyotas have gone to rust heaven. Locally we bend our own brake lines very easy, do it almost every week, have plenty of rusted out brake lines come in.
Same here in New York. Rust crust and dust is all you find if the vehicle is more than 8 years old.
sense something that's not these anymore?trying to make adjustments for load weights?..the electric part of the part.how do you bypass that?.thanks.Curious.IF you bypass the valve,does the truck have a sensor that's trying to sence
rearranged what I typed..hope you can understand my question.up.rearangeesim using is messed ☝Tablet I'm
See???
Did the owner take a pass on the repairs ? My guess is he or she did.
I will try to fix it first and later buy new one if couldn't fix it
Can you bypass the whole LSP & BV? I don't think my 2006 Taco has one.
I just removed the brake system entirely. Haven’t had a single leak since.
After 180k miles , 300k km , 15 years can consider new break system, new cooling system for safely reason , after 20 years old many parts keep failing , can consider selling it
Just unscrew that prop valve and lever and throw them in the garbage, connect the rear brake line coming off the master cylinder to the brake line coming off the axle, and the brake line that goes to the proportioning valve that is teed into the front brakes on the driver side front wheel well is no longer needed, you remove and plug with 1/8 npt plug. Fixed and brakes better than oem less than 10$. Already did on both my trucks brakes better
How did this hold up. I’m thinking about doing it so I don’t have to buy a new valve for 200+ dollars. I read that it would cause lock up because I have discs in the front and drums in the rear
Did you wind up doing that? I'm considering the same thing.
@@bran-qt7ds ya 2 much bs
Was this a pre purchase inspection?
She loaned out the truck to someone for sometime and got it back in this condition
More proof that No good deed goes unpunished.
Good place to bleed the brakes also.
600$? Try 100 at the junk yard.. those valves are solid and usually dont crap out unless damaged or it gets clogged with crap in the brake fluid..
At $70 for one hard line... I'm buying flaring tools.
This valve just needs a rebuild and new copper lines making
no need for that valve just by pass it.
I have seen this a few tines as the rust is bad where I am.
its not that high
Part costs 30 dls😂
This was a waste of time.