Bringing Electrical Service To Our Metal Storage Building
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2022
- Trenching for electrical service to our metal storage building. Installing pvc conduit and pulling 1/0 wire through it to a subpanel in the building.
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Good install
I'm totally sending this to a friend who still works in a call center dealing with fiberoptic cables--we used to work together and having something like this to train new people on (the basics of trenching, laying pipe, blowing pull tape, and pulling line) would've been incredible. Watching you pull wire looked like a serious workout! Very cool what you're doing with your home!
Nice work Mr Pete, your videos are entertaining and never long because there is never repetition.
Your Job is perfect!
Thank you for your detail job and good explanation.
You are real electric engineer who can do the pulling job without some kind of fishing electric wire and cutting the cable with hacksaw.
Nice video. I have found that a splash of dish soap squirted down both the upright conduits helps the wire go around those 90 degree bends. Thanks for posting
Great job Pete! WOW, it's hot here in central Texas and we are doing everything we can to keep the garden alive. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build out. God Bless Yawl. Mike
Thank you👍
I just did the same thing on my property these weekend here in cleveland texas it was so hot but i saved a lot of money and also my wife was happy to be finish
Thanks for sharing Pete!!!
This was great! Thanks so much for sharing. This Texas heat is definitely a killer.
Very impressive you did all this yourself. No way I’d do it. A few years ago we had a garage and shed electrified from the house. An electrician came out before hand and asked if a trench could be dug from the house to the garage. We dug the trench with a trencher attached to a mini digger we hired for this and a lot of other work.
This electrician decided not to do the job and we had another come out. The second electrician was very happy to see the trench and quickly wired up the connection and then the shed & garage. It’s so nice having lights and power in these buildings after so many years.
We will probably have a metal shed similar to yours built in a few years and will do the same, dig a trench where the electrician says it needs to go. The only difference is hopefully a sewerage pipe can also go from the shed to the house sewerage pipe and then to the septic tank. We’d like to have a bathroom in the shed so it’s easier to clean up after working on the farm.
I feel like i just hit the jackpot of UA-cam channels! Man I cant wait to start diving into projects with you!! Subscribed!!
Very nice work Pete! I’ll be looking forward to see how you wire the storage building! 🤙🏽
Trencher looks like a workout lol… glad you made this video I need to do the same at my place…. I only have to trench about 25 ft though luckily
One thing we used to do at work with those big cables after you tighten the lug down as tight as you can loosen the lug a little take hold of the wire and shake it back and forth then retighten you be surprised how much more the lug goes in.
I learned something today. Thanks Pete!
Just come across your video, Pete.
Great work. You tackled it and made it Tap Out!
I love watching various ways of doing things - I aways learn something. Thanks.
Thank you 👍
Great job. I’m doing just about the same thing only its going into the garage. Thank you.
Nice project Pete! Love that trencher, but it still looks like a workout!
I believe you also need two 8’ ground rods 6 or 8 feet apart tied together and tied to the sub panel.
Agreed. 2 grounding rods are needed for sub panels. They need to be driven in the ground at least 6’ apart.
Good job Mr. Pete.
Great video Pete!!! Now enjoy some AC lol. See you next week!
That's a workout Pete! Those bends like to fight back!
You make it look easy, Pete. Hats off on your videos. Can’t wait to be building on my 10 acres soon.
10 acres, that's awesome 👍
Thank you brother.. nice job
Nice job. Very good tutorial. Thanks.
Great job and nice. I learned a lot.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing it was very interesting!
Great video I’m going to be doing the same thing running power from my home panel to my garage panel
That was awesome to watch...whole time you were pulling that wire from the end of the house to the metal building I was thinking "could the tractor pull it through easier" 🤨🤔...looked like quite the workout...kept me entertained for the entire length of the video ❤️
I'm glad you liked the video 👍 once the wire hit the 90 degree elbow, it got pretty tough to pull. If it were a longer run, I would have used the tractor front loader to pull it up.
Great work💪🤩
Nicely done! I was recently doing some easy electrical work, but ran into an issue which required calling in a pro. He was stumped too until we accidentally found the short circuit in the main junction box.
Good job, thank you 👍
Great technique for existing conduit, but if your building it, you can just run the wires through the conduit as you assemble it.
Nice to see your building going up, really like your longer videos. I'm sure Tanya will love filling in the trenches. 😂💚👍👍🕊🍉
😂👍
ooh! such marital coordination! hours of free entertainment !!!
The neutral and ground are separate because they do different jobs. The ground is for safety, the neutral is for function.
Very true. The green ground wire is in a 8 foot copper? Bar
The neutral and ground are separated to prevent objectionable current on metal parts of the building and the panel because the current would then travel on the ground as well as the neutral in a parallel flow and the ground would then be carrying current all the time instead of during a fault condition. As far as a grounding rod, by code you need one since it’s a building separate from the main house. Also plastic bushings are required as well for the pvc connectors in the junction boxes and at the panels, and the trench should be about 22 inches deep so you have 18” from the top of the conduit to grade. Not too sure the size wire he used, it looked to be around 1/0 or 2/0, so in terms of calculating the junction box size it should have been bigger for cable radius. Based on size of conduit you used. For the corner where the conduit came from the ground into the bottom that box should have been a 12x12 since a corner bend calculation is 6 times the size of the conduit coming in; and for the junction box just before the panel since it was a straight pull it would be 8 times the conduit size which would be 16x16. But overall looks good besides those few details. Just for future references if you decide to run another conduit in the future but keep in mind that’s when you’re dealing with cables #4 and larger. Godbless.
What neutral and ground are bonded together in the main panel. Correct?
As always, check local codes. I’m pretty sure that pvc conduit needs to buried at least 18 inches in most places. This looks like about 12 inches. (Edit: in rewatching the trench section, I see it is probably 18 inches. )
Plus, the ground requirements may differ. In some cases a separate ground stake may be needed instead of extending the ground.
Hints: somebody suggested using pulling wax. I also use a pipe or stick to wrap the rope around as a handle rather than wrapping around my hand.
And kudos for wiring from the far end first so that nothing is hot until the final connection, potentially with the main off.
Edit: I would have run a 3/4 conduit at least for the underground part in case you want something like low voltage (network, camera, alarm) or a switched light. Just to plan ahead.
Totally enjoyed watching this video! I can imagine how much you saved by DIY on the electrical parts. Great work. (Pulling wires was some good work out, wasn't it? LOL)
Awesome, glad you liked the video 👍 and yes it saved me a ton of money.
fyi on the 811, if you live in an area like centerpoint energy electric, and you have underground service from your meter to the transformer or pedestal, 811 will not mark those because they are owned by the homeowner. they will only mark the main primary and secondary lines down the easement.
One of the best videos on UA-cam regarding this work. Nice job sir.
Thank you, I appreciate that 👍
Dude, you're going to be soar in the morning, been there, done that!
Cool video Pete 💡👏. After that workout pulling the wires, smile to your last sentence. P.S. did you get stuck filling in the trench? 👏😀
You went all out. 1/0 copper them in the 75°C column in nec is good for 150 amps. If you go to the 90°C column it's good for 170 amps. You can only use the 90°C column if your breaker is rated for 90°C. Hard to find one that is, but 75°C readily available. And good luck trying to find a 125 amp breaker that will snap in and fit in that panel. You'll be ok with the 100 amp breaker. I don't think that extra 25 amps is gonna make that much difference. Your load in your shed is a lot less than the load in your house.
ground is undersized because you increased the ungrounded conductors. There is no GES, no plastic bushing before the wire was pulled, theres romex outside in the existing panel and Picaso would be proud of that whole wall.
interessante. Gostei
obrigado
Hunny! You feel like doing something! Hahahahahaha. My wife is Chinese and she would probably run circles around me. Asian women are hard workers.
That's for sure 😊
Did you add the two grounding rods spaced apart in the out building tied to the ground in the sub panel?
So grounds and neutrals are combined at first means of disconnect. So the panel in the home may or may not have the grounds and neutrals combined. If you have a disconnect before the panel, the panel is a main lug and grounds and neutral must be separate.
Good video Pete.. what a workout pulling that wire!💪 How’s your garden doing? Haven’t seen it in a long time?
I've been too busy with the storage building and the garden is suffering but my wife works in the garden as much as she can.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading You sure are !
Did you not need a ground rod for that ground in the outbuilding because it is a separate structure?
A small HDD could be easier. But hell, you potholed the only issue. Smart move!
You need 2 ground rods at the metal building. On a run that long pulling compound is an absolute necessity and would have made pulling a lot easier especially on a hot day. Expansion fittings coming out of the ground on each end of the run are missing. PVC on the side of anything outside should be strapped every 4 feet if you don't want it to look like a snake.
My husband had our garage (his shop) rewired to 220
Code around here would be to install 2 ground rods 6 feet apart at the metal building with a grounding conductor attached to both and then going to the panel there....
I really wish you showed punching through the shop and mounting the conduit to the exterior wall.
Did you mark the cables before pulling them? That way you could tell which wire to connect where? Thanks for the video and nice work!
Thanks, Yes I marked the neutral wire with white tape near the ends, the other two hots don't matter.
What size wire did you use
How did that work out?....Getting your wife to fill the dirt back in the trench?...LOL
She actually helped me fill in the trench 👍
Great job 👏🏼 Pete , but Q: how your main supply panel is Outside your home Open to the Element?
That is now code in many places so that the fire department can switch off the main without pulling the meter. There is usually a sub panel inside for the bulk of the circuits.
that 2" conduit running along the house looks HORRIBLE, you shouldve buried all that and make the conduit sweep up near the main panel
Man all this stuff you is pretty kool that’s my style…. By the way what did you do for a living before this cause i see all these building and tools 🛠 and this is great, and of course if you don’t mind asking
I was a toolmaker/grinder and machinist for 30 years and into real estate investing (rental properties) through the years.
As an electrical guy,. Please, please, please check with your local electricians or building department.
You might need an electrical disconnect outside tof this building.
Ground rods 2 for this building.
The PVC piping can expand and contract over a large temperature change and rip the piping in half. A slip joint or sliding piece may be needed.
All receptacles in this building need gfci protection ( OUT BUILDING ) And more if you call it "AN AGRICUTURAL BUILDING".
And more.
Also,. Consider adding empty pipes to your trench while open. Some kind of communicating lights might be needed or even internet for your business. Dropping some 3/4 or 1 in pipes on the open trench and pulling in wire later ....easy. redigging a trench....not priceless.
Please get your best build by getting the best information.
That copper wire had to cost some bucks, Pete! Now if that wire came in from the pole could you use aluminium wire but not running it like you did? I had a guy put in a whole new panel in my old building, which had it's own service. The old panel, the cover was gone and missing circuit breakers so it was wide open.
I purchased 400ft in total of 1/0 wire with about 60ft left over, at $3.87 a foot it was expensive. I don't like aluminum wire because you have to go bigger in size and there's too much heat and expansion with it.
I designed electrical systems since 1983. With a couple exceptions, very very good install video. I do have a couple comments.
Not sure why you oversized the copper conductors, but that is fine. Not gluing the conduit to the fitting in the box is not good. Especially when you had to lift it up to the box. Not sure you need the expansion fitting as suggested by others, you are in Texas. The one thing that you truly do need to do is Article 250.32 requires you to install GEC(Grounding Electrode Conductor) and electrode at a separate building fed from another. You can easily install a #6 bare solid from the ground bar out to the exterior box, and then to the exterior and connect to two ground rods spaced apart. The reason for two is if you do not test for 25 ohms resistance or less, then you must install two and done. Just so you know why, the grounding electrode system is to send lightning strike energy to earth. No other purpose. The equipment ground system is to send ground fault current back to the panel, to the neutral, then out to the transformer to trip the breaker or fuse. BTW, the main breaker in the panel was required by Article 225. Well done! Like I said very well done video!
Respectfully, Kevin
Thanks for the information
@@petebeasttexashomesteading Maybe you can have another video to show any revision and explain why you have certain things. Hopefully your channel is not only about money. Best wishes, Kevin
did you get this all Permitted? What was the Required Depth underground for the Line from Main to Subpanel, You said you were running 100-125 from Main to Subpanel, what size is your main, what size wire was required for 100
The conduit for the electrical line was 18 inches deep. I ran 1/0 wire which is good for 150 amp and my main panel is a 200amp service.
I was wondering why you didn't bury more of that?
So im basically doing the exact same build as yours here in tyler texas! What type of wire did you use?
I used 1/0 AWG stranded wire. The copper wire itself is .3249 inches in diameter.
Pete....about to do a similar project with a new barn. Does the inspector have to verify the trench depth or can it just be backfilled and the inspector takes the homeowners word for it?
If you have an inspector, they'll have to make sure it's to depth before back filling the trench.
We don't need no stinking inspection because we didn't take out a stinking permit.
I personally would have wanted all those power lines and PVC pipes totally underground along the length of the house - was there a reason you didn't do that length underground??
Gas lines lady
Great installation. Not sure if I missed it in the video but why didn’t you stay underground all the way to the panel at the house?
Because there's a cable line and water line there and I didn't want to mess with it.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading that makes sense, thanks.
Would it been cheaper to put in another service meter or not.Great job.
No because I'm running everything off my solar this way.
Also, a second meter would most likely be billed separately subject to minimum charge for the service.
No expansion joint?
Hi Pete B nice work i had something like this done for me but its a smaller sub panel in a small shed i have a question can you add a 50 amp breaker to that sub panel for a 50 amp generator power inlet box to run from the shed to power whole house that way
Yes you can do that as long as the wires going to that sub panel can handle more than 50amps.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading Hi Pete thanks for the reply back am going to check that today if wires can handle more than 50amps i didn't do the work myself the breaker feeding that small sub panel is a 60 amp from the main outdoor panel
@@BigMan3555 If the breaker on the sub panel is 60 amp, then you will be okay.
Just remember that if you feed back into any breaker panel, you have to shut off the main breaker feeding into your house from the meter or other wise you will be back feeding the lines on the poles and electrocute a line worker.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading i check looks like he used 6 awg gauge wiring from main panel to sub panel in the shed would of like to seen 4 awg gauge but i think 6 awg gauge is ok for 60 amp breaker the only thing i seen he did different i don't know why from what you did was feed the sub panel using another 60 amp breaker
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What kind of wire did you run? 10 awg or 8 awg?
1/0 AWG wire good for up to 150 amp.
I apologize if I missed it what amp service are you running ?
I used 1/0 wire to a 125 amp service panel
Thank you For the fast reply. I just put in a similar service from the inside panel to on outer wall sub panel but used AWG 1/0 boy was that wire stiff
Oh I'm sorry. You did use copper. Good for you!
The only question I have is why didn't he put the wire through the pipe when he was assembling it? Wouldn't it have made it easier?
Is the buried conduit necessary?
I thought you could direct bury.
They do have direct bury gray wire but I haven't seen it in 1/0 gauge wire only 6 gauge.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading I know the SER with gray jacket is not for underground. Not even in conduit.
You'd need triplex with a ground wire. And it will be aluminum. And it won't fit under a 100 amp breaker.
I'm sorry, but I think you don't have enough electrical boxes and panels on your house. You need to add a few more.
Nicely done Pete! Quick question asked out of ignorance - could you have put a new grounding rod in next to the building and grounded your box to that? Or does it need to be connected to the ground in the main panel? Just curious... And man... I HATE pulling wire...
It would technically work with a grounding rod but to be to code I needed to ground it to the main panel.
You have to run the equipment ground back to the source of power which is st the house. The equipment grounding conductor is not for safety. It is to facilitate the operation of the circuit breaker at the source if one of the feeder wires shorts out to anything grounded and connected to that wire. If you didn't have the grounding wire the short wouldn't cause the breaker to trip as the circuit is still open. The ground rods at the shed will not cause the breaker in your panel to trip if you did not pull in sn equipment ground as the earth is not a low resistance return path for the fault current to activate the breaker. Google MGM Grand fire.
Use some lube. If you don't have any pour some anti freeze down the conduit. That's really slippery as you may know if you've ever spilled any on your driveway and stepped in it. It will not have a deleterious affect on the wire. It will never dry up or evaporate. It will make it easy to pull out the wires if you ever have to.
No it won't. Gotta have an equipment ground conductor back to the source.
The ground rods are for dissipation of static electricity and lightning strikes. Chances are you won't have a lightning strike but you never know in Texas and with a metal building. So check to see if your building is grounded to your driven ground rods. It probably is when you mounted your panel on the metal. See NEC 250.116 FPN (Fire Protection Note)
I’m a native Texan. You’re not from around here are ya.
Next how 2 get rid of moles !
What size wire was it to the building?
It was 1/0 - AWG
Pete, What gauge copper wire did you use?
I used 1/0 ought wire.
0/1
@@juancarlosgonzalez1951 00
Don't need the ground. Just two ground rods are building
What size wire are you using
1/0 AWG THHN wire
What size of the wire for 100 amps?
It depends on the distance. If it's a short distance, then 2 gauge would work but I used 1/0 that's good for up to 150 amp.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading Thank you.
Why did you use 1/0 wire? Should have used copper, #3awg. Yes it's probably more money than 1/0 aluminum.
Oh! You used copper! You went too big. No wonder you had trouble at your breaker. But you did say you were gonna upgrade to a 125 amp breaker. You probably won't find a 125 amp snap in breaker for your panel. Case in point. Look at the 125amp breaker in your shed panel.
Why didn't you string the wire inside the pipe as you were gluing it together - would that not have been far easier and faster a process?
U run the conduit first than pull in the wire mostly with a pull rope
There was no reason to tie a basket, a few half hutches would have been fine. No lube (even dish soap) and pulling plastic rope in plastic pipe is really asking for trouble. Carflex into the exterior service panel? Wait did everyone survive this? I know its an old video I assume everyone survived.
NEC code requires the top of pvc conduit to be at 18 inches deep, so that makes the trench 20 inches deep. Your trench doesn't look deep enough. How deep did you dig it ?
My trencher goes 24" deep.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading Then you are in good shape.
Wait till he sees the price of the service wire
Your conduit entrances into your waterproof box are not waterproof, I'm thinking of doing a similar thing but putting in an o-ring on the outside, but it's not an oem waterproof part so might not get approved by the inspector.... and clearances with the o-ring and the hole saw sizing are going to be tight.... I'm in Canada but the rules are the same up here.
Why the j box ?
Why not take it all the way to panel, piping on house looks awful?
Why wouldn't you want to continue with conduit underground all the way to where the solar system was. You would of saved $30 on that junction box. Even better you wouldn't have all that conduit exposed on the side of the house, nor would you have to drill all those holes into the side of the house. Just curious. I wouldn't know. Makes sense to me, but I imagine you had a reason.
Gas lines
KUDOS
Why don't you use 240 volts in two wires instead of 120 + 120 + neutral thank you
In north, central and south America, the electric power is 120 volts 60Hz per line. If you want 240, you will need two lines 120 volts each. In Europe and other places the power in 220 volts 50Hz. To run 440 volts you'll need to run two 220 lines.
Thanks for the answer, but just as a reminder if you want to get 440 volts or 380 volts you need 3 phase + neutral
I mean 3*220V
@@Ambassadooor2035 correct, but residential electric power is only two hot wires. 3 phase would be commercial powering three phase machines.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading yeah👍
Big wire head
Will it work? Sure, lots of things done incorrectly will work. Multiple code violations, would never pass an inspection.
OK. Tell us what they are.
@@RS-br9ud J-boxes are too small, 2" liquidtight not secured, 2" PVC on wall not secured properly, no bushings on connectors, no ground rods, trench should be over 20" deep doesn't look like it, feeder ground wire may be too small but can't tell exactly.