How to understand Anti-Dive and use it in your street stock race car
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 лис 2024
- Dirt Race Life is showing you how AntiDive works and an effective strategy for applying AntiDive to your race car. We demonstrate how antidive works on the chalk board and then finish up with installing our upper control arm mounts using our determined settings. The hunt for step by step instructions and how to on building a race car are over. This is the tech you need to build a car that will take you to the front.
You can join this channel through Google to become a Dirt Race Life Sponsor@ / @dirtracelife
Or head over to Patreon to become a Dirt Race Life Sponsor@ www.patreon.com/dirtracelife
Find us on FaceBook @ DirtRaceLife
To purchase Swag and find more build information check out our website@ www.dirtracelife.com
I put a link to these videos on my Facebook page. I am finally starting to understand some of this stuff I have read about. Your videos are great. Thank you for taking the time to make these.
Thank you Tad.
Enjoy your I enjoy your videos I'm 68 years old
A lot of racers winning races and older than you. It's just a number 😀
Another home run. Well done Jason.
Thanks Raleigh :)
I’m seriously Benj watching. I’m building a assault car so I know things are the same but different. But very helpful
Man, thats awesome.
So much great information. Thanks for making these videos.
I appreciate the feedback and you watching as well!
Awesome. I would like to suggest some triangular gussets on your upper mount on the right front since you mentioned them bending so often. Thanks for these videos man. Always nice to get a fresh perspective on this stuff!
Agreed, I hesitated on going ahead with them because of maybe conflicting with other items in the same space. I'm thinking once the steering shaft and headers are on I better get them added. Got a couple folks on me about those so I best show getting them on when I do :)
I have been building suspensions and design for many years and I can help you a lot with the geometry if you would be open to suggestions.
I watched the roll center video and you are right on a lot of it but you never explain the relation of the upper A-arms and the lowers.
By this I mean there is an angle that you mount the upper mounts to so they coincide with the lowers, this helps maintain the roll center better during travel.
The roll over on the RF isn't the fastest and best way to run a car, it's a crutch and stable is much faster and better to drive.
If you are interested in some fresh ideas on old designs I can sure help, I had a mentor that taught me a lot about any suspension on any surface and until they change the way gravity and inertia there is no new hot setups but there is manipulative measures.
Enjoy watching the videos and I just saw some stuff I would love to turn you on to that will help you so much in the middle of the turns, 3 wheel brakes are a crutch and you should never need them.
Robby Johns, 850-428-3622, call me sometime, I would love to discuss the front and rear of a car.
Thanks for this comment Robby. I'm running the parallel upper set-up on my new build and I've committed to it at this point but you are VERY correct. One question I am trying to answer for myself is just how deep to go in the rabbit hole of engineering because I want to get solid useful information in front of new racers while at the same time not overwhelming with too much tech beyond many folks. One thought I'm having here is making a future vid while I am in the set-up phase of my crate racin car build and showing the exact relationship of caster loss during compression for the application I used on the car. Yes, I'd like to reserve on that opportunity to get advice on how to present some great alternative options as well and show how they can improve that even more.
Thanks for watching and supporting of sport!
Love it. I’m learning a bunch on this series. Thank you
Thanks Jason, I appreciate you watching.
I was wondering when the next video will come out I'd like to see you finish that cage
Its 80% done. It covers the front and rear horizontals and getting the seat position and all the harness mounts in and in the right spots. Likely will be Friday or Saturday before uploaded. I typically get one to two evenings a week to work on it and it looks like that has me averaging one new progress video every two weeks.
Great videos. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process
Thanks Eddie, appreciate you watching.
Great information and explanation!
Thanks XFactor, And by the way, you guys are making some NICE looking bushings and addressing what I consider to be the rub with most poly suspension products which is far too high a durometer reading for the application. :)
www.xfactorbushings.com
Very informative. I run on asphalt so some things or different then dirt but great information Sir. Thanks for the videos
Thank you SWE, I appreciate the feedback.
Right wish more ppl would take the time to like comment and subscribe. I do have a channel as well. Just started it and Don't know what ppl think. If they like it don't like cuz they just watch and move on lol. Check me out and let me know. Keep in mind I'm just getting started
Brilliant explanation, such a great teacher!
Thank you Mark, my hope is these videos help inspire new people into the sport or help current guys who are frustrated and close to giving up.
I’ve been waiting on this one. Great video as always and I can’t wait until you get to the Ackerman part and how it works along with placement of roll center on the front end. I will say you are letting out a lot of secrets to front end geometry that still applies even on supers where they have spring smashers and can run bumps and stacks.
Thank you Curt, the ackerman video is going to be eye opening and I want to get it done as soon as I can but I am having to juggle getting my Camaro ready to go as well. Bare with me, we'll get there. And thank you for the feedback.
I understand Ackerman that’s why I want my track to allow us to use the Three piece spindles. I want tell them about how you can adjust Ackerman with them yet just how much easier it is to replace a steering arm if bent.
Love the videos keep them coming
Thank you Richard, The next one will be out by the weekend and is "setup and scaling". editing now and I think it is going to be a good one ;)
I need a crew chief like you..lol
Thanks for watching Kenneth. I hope to help inspire some new crew chiefs.
RIGHT?!
just a quick simple question to tighten up my dirt stock car what would be your first move?
To tighten corner entry I would reduce lr bite as a general first place to look.
would adding turns to right rear weight jack be about the same ?
It could. It will also change ride heights. There's no one answer , I wish there was.
A round out of the rf and lr and then a round into the lf and rr will decrease bite while somewhat leaving ride heights alone. But the idea of reducing lr bite as a fix for tight is very flawed if taken that simply. You have to look at the whole picture and then assess what the driver is doing and how the car reacts during every phase of the turn. Starting with entry and then working all the way through every phase of the turn. It can be overwhelming at first until you start to see the whole picture. A car can be horrendously tight because the car is out of square, the stagger is backwards, it has extreme rear or left percentage, it has too soft a rf spring, it has a bind, and it keeps going. Each one of these has it own unique characteristics and you have to sort it out. It's the hard part but as you get good at it, it's the fun part too 😉
Thank you for the great info!! Are you using camaro spindles?
Yes these are 73-77 A body spindles which are the same as Camaro
When I built my G body car that’s what I used you just have to use the center link as well because of the width of the frame rails to the steering arms. Then better off using camaro tie rods because of the way they are bent for bump steer. It helped my G body car beat many camaro’s !
I love it!
I have learned a lot since then as well. Anti Dive definitely can hold a corner up but now I am also looking at pro dive in the left front to literally pull the car down . . .
So ya measure this degree by putting an angle finder on the center of the cross shaft between the bolts?
Yes Brody, Make sure you have the frame set so that the lower control is dead level front to back and then find the angle on the cross bar for the upper and that will be your anti-dive.
@@DIRTRACELIFE ok thank you!!… btw Iv been watching your videos, your a huge help w so much stuff!!.. I really appreciate it,… I’m gonna go through the car tomorrow w a few of your videos ready to hit play! should I set the car at ride heights first?
Not absolutely required Brody. What is super critical is making sure the lower arm is lever because antidive is created by the difference between the lower and upper. If the lower is not at zero then the reading on the upper isn't actually what's shown, it's more or less according to how the lower is out of level. So get the lower as close to level as you can.
Awsome thank you so much!! Workn on this now!
And FYI, I think I have been a bit too aggressive at 4 degrees and on my next build I am planning 2 degrees.
will this work the same for asphalt?
I suspect the exact angles would need to be different. My experience is on dirt and I sure don't want to mislead anyone. We need somebody to do this same type video but for asphalt.
@@DIRTRACELIFE thanks for the reply
So if you weren't allowed to run 3 wheel brakes, would you put anti dive on LF as well?
I think it would depend on the tracks I run, but if it was a fast track with some banking then yes I very well could see adding 2 degrees in the left front if I was required to run 4 brakes. Thanks for watching Matthew.
sorry those ball joints are not 1" taller.
Your right they are more like 3/4" and if you are careful with the reamer you get fairly close to 1" difference But there not just a +1 ball joint. They are ALOT cheaper though LOL.
Ok 4 deg. Is that to a level chassis on jig. Does it matter ,on car at ride height ! Like 4 deg.. then the car sits at just say 2 in. Higher ride height, because, roll centers are so different front to rear ???? Good show , i know this show old ,but I'm old too ! 7de som ,😊
Mike,
Great question and this is absolutely one of those areas where their is TONS of confusion. You are exactly right about how the ride height and attitude of the car will mess you all up on measuring anti-dive in the front. So for example, on the Crush, I jigged the frame up but then I made sure I set the lowers to exactly zero (level to the ground). While it's on the jig, I could just directly measure the angle on the upper arms and see what the anti-dive is BUT once I pull the car off the jig and have it at ride height its a different story..... The anti-dive is just the measurement in difference in the angles between the lower arm and the upper arm and that was easy on the jig because I set the lower arm to zero. If I raise the car up in the rear or drop it in the front I have to measure how much angle is now in that lower and do the math. So for example if I raised the back of the car up a couple inches and when I measure the upper arm it is now 3 degrees instead of 4, that DOES NOT mean I now have 3 degrees anti-dive because I also changed the angle in that lower. If I lost a degree on top I also lost 1 degree on bottom. Measure your lowers and see what the angle is on them and then you can tell what your real anti dive is for the top. Ideally, You make sure your lowers are true and correct to the frame rail and then you can just check the frame rail as your base number representing your lower. I hope this helps bud!
@@DIRTRACELIFE that is what is need because most would set top at ride height an not leveling bottom ! Thanks never to old to learn ,just to old to think real hard , Thanks for the heavy lifting! 💯% people this guy is a help common talk brain ! Pay attention an learn thank again 🦻
Stagger is of on rear 😊
Could have been