J2k requires too much fab in this chassis. Watch the guy in UA-cam’s video who has done it. K swap makes way more sense. Almost all the Awd parts bolt straight on with no modification
The problem was with the oil pan leak… you don’t use RTV, Honda bond or otherwise with a rubber gasket. And you did it again with a new pan, OEM gasket and more RTV. You just use the rubber gasket. I’ve been doing this for 30 years, ASE Master tech .. by just using the gasket properly torqued, you will have no issues. You could’ve even used the new pan with just Honda bond or permatex ultra black, no gasket and you would’ve been fine. That pan will leak again inside of another 10 to 20 thousand miles because of the same way you sealed it.
I do motorcycles and there are quite a few more surfaces that seal like an oil pan would (steel or alu) and what I found is that dry mounting works best and silicone is to be used only on spots like were halfs of casings meet or there is abrupt edge or a curve. I can't even begin to count how many service manuals say the same.
As someone who has used the original "mod my CRV" like a build guide for my own 2000 first gen! Im so glad to see more CRV content and hope to see even more!
Just goes to show if you take care of a car it will run, run and run some more. I have a modified 2009 Subaru Forester 2.5 X with 133,000 miles that I am also replacing the steering rack on. I just picked up a 2007 Subaru Forester for $500 with 325,000 miles. New exhaust, wheel bearings, valve cover gaskets and front rotors and pads and its ready for another 325,000 miles.
I concur. Sometimes cleaning up previous owner mess or getting to own a car just when parts are at failure point can get a bit painfull but If the body/chassis is solid and engine not worn due to oil change neglect than after repairs there's nothing more than just ride.
First Gen V’s are the king commuter for Honda enthusiasts. Mine has 315,000 miles and still has the original engine and transmission. So glad Honda decided to use double wishbone suspension and a b series engine and offered manual transmissions really made these a decently fun commuters.
As a guy from WNY that moved to SC about 2 years ago. I do not miss the snow/salt and working on rusty cars! It is kind of insane to see the old dodge caravans / late 90s Subaru’s and older civics/crx cars that are still kicking around
Glad to see the CRV again. Being a current owner of a 2001 also I've watched the previous videos a couple of times already. Wish you guys were in the Lower mainland BC, I'd love to keep mine going. 😊
Oil Pan only eeds rtv in 4 spots. By putting it all tbe way around will cause a leak. Make sure to use the fel pro one with the metal tab inside. Torque to spec.
I like the look with the aero discs on just the front wheels, reminds me of the Mazda 787B. Nice looking CRV and living the dream to see it roll past 400k. Its never the mileage that kills old Hondas, its rust. Actually you should have taken the rocker panels off, those rockers are probably a lot more rusted than what you could see from just opening the door. If the rear trailing arm design is anything like my Element that will rust out and total the car.
Love these “reality restorations” you do. It’s so relatable to average person and shows you can still do some upgrades without breaking the bank. I’m in Manitoba and we have rust of course but with Ontario using way more salt than we do I’m glad to be in Manitoba. 😜. Keep up the great videos!
Best to go with the oem gasket for those oil pans. They have steel grommets in them to help keep you from crushing the gasket. Had to do mine twice too. First one got smashed out even at the listed torque spec.
I love this era crv. I'd take a fresh one of these over the complicated new ones any day. Wish we could go back the simpler cars, these things rocked, so easy to maintain.
My 98 CRV Just started having issues at 234k. The dreaded P1399 code, I have a burnt valve in cylinder 2 because I did not do a valve lash adjustment... the exhaust valve was super tight on that cylinder. I now know that its "common" for the valves to get tight on the exhaust end if you do not adjust the valve lash, causing the valve to burn. If you have a RD1 or RD2 DO YOUR VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENTS!!! its much easier than it looks.
Making sure gasket surfaces are spotless clean and dry/oil free is critical… its also good practice to leave the sealant to cure for 24 hrs before adding oil.
I met your brother once a while back, I bought something off him. Can't even remember what it was, but he told me about your channel. Been watching since.
If you don't want to go the k series all-wheel drive route, it's a lot easier to do a front-wheel drive f-23 or h22 swap... Use the hasport EK F swap you can use the CR-V 5-speed shift cables and shifter box and it's a lot cheaper and easier to find F / h series transmissions then the rd1 B series awd 5spd...
I have a 99 same colour. Same wheel well rust. Same rusted exhaust flange in front of the cat 😂😂😂. Was also a southern Ontario car originally. Ah, now I see why your rust isn’t so bad: former BC car. You never did the wheel well rust. Best to get it now before you lost the metal that holds the trim pieces. Also take off the plastic rocker covers to treat the rust. It hides there and I just discovered gaping holes in my rocker panels. I gotta be “that guy” and complain though: Since you did rims, tires, control arms etc, you could have done a small lift and gone with bigger size wheels which looks a bit more badass. The stock suspension is great though for clearance and handling and probably perfectly suited to his driving needs. I like that the original head units has dials. Can’t give that up. The CD player will only play the first half of CD’s though 😂😂 Take out the rear speakers and use rust converter and paint from the inside too, and then fluid film.
idk what it is about honda's but i had similar issues with my dc5 steering rack and the U-joint. wouldn't work per factory manual (sliding the u-joint up onto the steering column and then down onto the steering rack). i ended up just removing the steering column, sliding the u-joint onto the steering rack and then reinstalling the steering column after the u-joint was tightened up on both ends.
240k is nothing for a Honda of that era. Rust is enemy #1. Honda power steering fluid leaks are almost always from using anything but Honda PS fluid. Never let the quick lube shops top it up.
Just wanna say on the subject of Fel-pro - they're the highest failure rate gaskets on japanese cars IMO of the common brands. Much better off with ishino, mahle or OEM.
I’d recommend this: Use a grinder and wire wheel to get rid of rust and paint where the is rust beneath. Use a rust converter metal prep. Use POR15 to seal it up. Use body filler to smooth it out if desired. I like the kind that has “Kevlar” which is way more durable and supposedly seals against water too. Top with dupicolor rattle can of factory paint colour (paint code is listed on the door jamb).
Oil spray is at Krown. It will nit happen. I have a 98 1.6EL since we bought it brand new. Oil sprayed it every year. Not rust at all on it. It is mint. Still go the original bill of sale
yal' wanna Restore my 98 Acura CL 2.3 aswell ? im in Niagara LOL. Keep up the amazing content I really enjoy these super driven Hondas showing what they can offer with good maintenance
I’ve had bad luck with both OEM and FelPro oil pan gaskets on my Integra GSR B18C engine. The OEM design just isn’t that great. I plan to try a MyHondaHabit oil pan gasket next when I pull the motor out to be clean and re-sealed.
Pull off all the plastic, trim, rocker covers, wheel liners, power wash the entire underside, soap it up and do it again, dry it, then shoot fluid film inside every crevice in cavity using a spray gun and shop air, it will stop all that rust.
Hey bro, need your help with my 2000 rd2 crv. Trouble starting, I delays or caps or struggles to throttle. I change the idle air valve, gas filter, maps sensor. Still the same issue. What's your recommendation?
Those aero disks look sick. They actually remind me a little of the C4 Corvette rims from a distance. I hope yall put some antiseize on those centercaps LOL.
I love the obvious lack of safety inspections over there! Here in the UK that rusty hole would need welding up to pass the annual ministry of transport test, over there you just spray some stuff on it and keep on rockin' 😂
@@craigiefconcert6493 Oh 100%, that rust has travelled up from the bottom. There'll be nothing left underneath, and that's all structural... I'm sure Fluid Film will slow the spread of surface rust but it's not going to hold your car together 😂
For the love of god plz mods or get another Crv and trick it out like its pimp my ride I been wearing for another vid on this car for years I haven’t smiled this hard in months
When this thing hits 500,000 miles you guys should do an AWD K swap build.
Or J swap :)
J-Swap RealTimeAWD!!! K-series manual AWD platform (Honda Element? Or 2nd gen CR-V?), with a J2K adapter. A J37 would be sweeeeet.
J2k requires too much fab in this chassis. Watch the guy in UA-cam’s video who has done it. K swap makes way more sense. Almost all the Awd parts bolt straight on with no modification
500k miles = 800k km’s, so double what it is now. That would be in 20 years based on his 80k km’s in four years 😂😂😂😂
Link the 📻 radio
The problem was with the oil pan leak… you don’t use RTV, Honda bond or otherwise with a rubber gasket. And you did it again with a new pan, OEM gasket and more RTV. You just use the rubber gasket. I’ve been doing this for 30 years, ASE Master tech .. by just using the gasket properly torqued, you will have no issues. You could’ve even used the new pan with just Honda bond or permatex ultra black, no gasket and you would’ve been fine. That pan will leak again inside of another 10 to 20 thousand miles because of the same way you sealed it.
An OEM seal will last probably over 10 years... No way those bonds will add anything to that.
@@bencevarga6304 you are wrong and don’t know what you’re talking about.
doesnt matter if it leaks they can always replace it anytime, i use rtv gasket on my 7th gen civic oil pan and after 8 years no leaks
@@jeremycarldaigo8768 lol.. The idea is to replace the gasket so it does not leak. And the way they did it twice it will leak.
I do motorcycles and there are quite a few more surfaces that seal like an oil pan would (steel or alu) and what I found is that dry mounting works best and silicone is to be used only on spots like were halfs of casings meet or there is abrupt edge or a curve. I can't even begin to count how many service manuals say the same.
As someone who has used the original "mod my CRV" like a build guide for my own 2000 first gen! Im so glad to see more CRV content and hope to see even more!
Just goes to show if you take care of a car it will run, run and run some more. I have a modified 2009 Subaru Forester 2.5 X with 133,000 miles that I am also replacing the steering rack on. I just picked up a 2007 Subaru Forester for $500 with 325,000 miles. New exhaust, wheel bearings, valve cover gaskets and front rotors and pads and its ready for another 325,000 miles.
Absolutely agreed! Though some of these jobs are not as accessible for the average Joe due to lack of tools.
I concur. Sometimes cleaning up previous owner mess or getting to own a car just when parts are at failure point can get a bit painfull but If the body/chassis is solid and engine not worn due to oil change neglect than after repairs there's nothing more than just ride.
First Gen V’s are the king commuter for Honda enthusiasts. Mine has 315,000 miles and still has the original engine and transmission. So glad Honda decided to use double wishbone suspension and a b series engine and offered manual transmissions really made these a decently fun commuters.
So rare to find MT though, and probably lots of nice rust-free ones in Texas.
@@craigiefconcert6493 not lots but they are out there.
my buddy has manual RHD in quebec, it has 640,000 km original engine its still running up to this day its just bulletproof crv
As a guy from WNY that moved to SC about 2 years ago. I do not miss the snow/salt and working on rusty cars! It is kind of insane to see the old dodge caravans / late 90s Subaru’s and older civics/crx cars that are still kicking around
The original CRV build is how I found and subscribed to your channel. Crazy that it's been 4 years already!
It’s been 4 years already?😮
yea i guess i remember huddling around my computer with my overgrown hair watching this during pandemic LOL
Man I hate getting old, I had the same reaction
Legit feels like yesterday lol
The music sync at 10:50 is perfection 😂
Glad to see the CRV again. Being a current owner of a 2001 also I've watched the previous videos a couple of times already. Wish you guys were in the Lower mainland BC, I'd love to keep mine going. 😊
Oil Pan only eeds rtv in 4 spots. By putting it all tbe way around will cause a leak. Make sure to use the fel pro one with the metal tab inside. Torque to spec.
I like the look with the aero discs on just the front wheels, reminds me of the Mazda 787B. Nice looking CRV and living the dream to see it roll past 400k. Its never the mileage that kills old Hondas, its rust. Actually you should have taken the rocker panels off, those rockers are probably a lot more rusted than what you could see from just opening the door. If the rear trailing arm design is anything like my Element that will rust out and total the car.
Exactly. The black trim hiding the rocker panels traps salt and moisture and will be rusted through. Being a BC car could be early enough to save.
That head unit is awesomely compact, wow.
Love me a good beater! Way to keep your brother on the road and his family safe! Not all builds need to be $$$ and fast to be important
Love these “reality restorations” you do. It’s so relatable to average person and shows you can still do some upgrades without breaking the bank. I’m in Manitoba and we have rust of course but with Ontario using way more salt than we do I’m glad to be in Manitoba. 😜. Keep up the great videos!
Nice work! Those wheels really look good with that F1 style center cap!
The original Honda video was what made me start watching you guys, cant believe its been 4 years already!
Love that I’m still here for these 😊
Really cool! I've always loved the older gen CR-V, such a great platform.
Aero Discs for the win! Those things are super rad
Glad to see the CRV is still on the road.
Just got me a 98 5sp awd crv. 274 on her. This is awesome!
them wheel discs... so good.
I was extremely close to buying one of these a few years back largely from the original videos featuring this car, seems to have held up well!
Best to go with the oem gasket for those oil pans. They have steel grommets in them to help keep you from crushing the gasket. Had to do mine twice too. First one got smashed out even at the listed torque spec.
I love this era crv. I'd take a fresh one of these over the complicated new ones any day. Wish we could go back the simpler cars, these things rocked, so easy to maintain.
My 98 CRV Just started having issues at 234k. The dreaded P1399 code, I have a burnt valve in cylinder 2 because I did not do a valve lash adjustment... the exhaust valve was super tight on that cylinder. I now know that its "common" for the valves to get tight on the exhaust end if you do not adjust the valve lash, causing the valve to burn. If you have a RD1 or RD2 DO YOUR VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENTS!!! its much easier than it looks.
Found the channel through original videos! Good to see its still running.
Making sure gasket surfaces are spotless clean and dry/oil free is critical… its also good practice to leave the sealant to cure for 24 hrs before adding oil.
Honda's back!
Glad to see the crv back! Still looks good! K swap it for the next series on it for sure!
I met your brother once a while back, I bought something off him. Can't even remember what it was, but he told me about your channel. Been watching since.
Those are my favorite Konig wheels. Very nice looking.
Those Ronal center cap style discs look sick!
great content, awesome attitude, nice ride! Congrats!
No way it's been 4 years since the car has been on the channel! Really? Yikes, getting old sucks.
babe wake up, new CRV content !
Oil pan gasket supposed to go on dry, NO Honda bond at all.
What a great car. I had 1998 version, and 2004 I bought new one...But the Gen2 was made in England and cannot be compared to the one made in Japan.
Seeing those MRK1s has sold me on putting them on my dad’s 02 TL
Nice quick build 👌
Love the wheels though. That lug nuts cover is really a nice touch.
i love these old crv builds
Damn those wheels are sick! Aero kit is so impressive
Great job guys !
Usually the reason the Honda d and b series gaskets leak are inconsistent torque spec
Metal core fel pro is the one to go with
damn great timing, I just watched the first parts to this a month ago!
I felt the frustration with the U joint, same experience with that on my MDX transmission swap 😅
Nice 💯 now can you do my 2009 Honda civic
Spread apart the u joint in the steering knuckle with a large flat screwdriver. Goes on easy.
Here to offset the bot comments, see you boys next week!❤
🙌🏼🙌🏼
One of my fav crv
If you don't want to go the k series all-wheel drive route, it's a lot easier to do a front-wheel drive f-23 or h22 swap... Use the hasport EK F swap you can use the CR-V 5-speed shift cables and shifter box and it's a lot cheaper and easier to find F / h series transmissions then the rd1 B series awd 5spd...
I have a 99 same colour. Same wheel well rust. Same rusted exhaust flange in front of the cat 😂😂😂. Was also a southern Ontario car originally. Ah, now I see why your rust isn’t so bad: former BC car.
You never did the wheel well rust. Best to get it now before you lost the metal that holds the trim pieces.
Also take off the plastic rocker covers to treat the rust. It hides there and I just discovered gaping holes in my rocker panels.
I gotta be “that guy” and complain though:
Since you did rims, tires, control arms etc, you could have done a small lift and gone with bigger size wheels which looks a bit more badass. The stock suspension is great though for clearance and handling and probably perfectly suited to his driving needs.
I like that the original head units has dials. Can’t give that up. The CD player will only play the first half of CD’s though 😂😂
Take out the rear speakers and use rust converter and paint from the inside too, and then fluid film.
It’s dead handy to have a brother who runs a speed shop!
idk what it is about honda's but i had similar issues with my dc5 steering rack and the U-joint. wouldn't work per factory manual (sliding the u-joint up onto the steering column and then down onto the steering rack). i ended up just removing the steering column, sliding the u-joint onto the steering rack and then reinstalling the steering column after the u-joint was tightened up on both ends.
Those wheels are 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
240k is nothing for a Honda of that era. Rust is enemy #1. Honda power steering fluid leaks are almost always from using anything but Honda PS fluid. Never let the quick lube shops top it up.
Jake makes it happen - go Jake!
Selling 91 acura legend coupe 5speed located in GTA, that would be great to see it on your channel. Speed Academy great content 👍
What a great car!
Just wanna say on the subject of Fel-pro - they're the highest failure rate gaskets on japanese cars IMO of the common brands. Much better off with ishino, mahle or OEM.
Should do the 2006 jeep Cherokee lip .. it’ll change the front end look 👌🏼
Wow cool option on the wheels
I was hoping to see what you did to the little bit of rust on the out side of the car since my 2001 GMC C3 is just has a bit of rust
I’d recommend this:
Use a grinder and wire wheel to get rid of rust and paint where the is rust beneath.
Use a rust converter metal prep.
Use POR15 to seal it up.
Use body filler to smooth it out if desired. I like the kind that has “Kevlar” which is way more durable and supposedly seals against water too.
Top with dupicolor rattle can of factory paint colour (paint code is listed on the door jamb).
Why not use a rust converter that stops the rusting before encapsulating in fluid film?
CRV looks great.
Oil spray is at Krown. It will nit happen. I have a 98 1.6EL since we bought it brand new. Oil sprayed it every year. Not rust at all on it. It is mint. Still go the original bill of sale
This video gives some really good advice:
1. Don't use Failpro gaskets
2. Don't crinkle paint engine bits
3. Don't live anywhere that salts the roads
0. Change your timing belt 😂😂😂
I want one of those so bad. Awesome daily
yal' wanna Restore my 98 Acura CL 2.3 aswell ? im in Niagara LOL. Keep up the amazing content I really enjoy these super driven Hondas showing what they can offer with good maintenance
I’ve had bad luck with both OEM and FelPro oil pan gaskets on my Integra GSR B18C engine. The OEM design just isn’t that great. I plan to try a MyHondaHabit oil pan gasket next when I pull the motor out to be clean and re-sealed.
Thanks guys ❤
What a beautiful CR-V
Pull off all the plastic, trim, rocker covers, wheel liners, power wash the entire underside, soap it up and do it again, dry it, then shoot fluid film inside every crevice in cavity using a spray gun and shop air, it will stop all that rust.
You have to use the steel core fel pro to get an upgrade from oem. Their rubber oil pan gaskets are junk.
Dang boys, you just sold me on those Konig wheels for my MK7 GTI.
man those rims are nice, would look good on an rx8
I wonder if the crv AWD fuel tank fits a eg or ek.
How are you guys able to drop the subframe without supporting the bottom end?
Which year it again? Looks really nice
This car would really benefit from our restorative TriboCeramic engine treatment! We'd be happy to send Jake some 😎just let us know where
Hey bro, need your help with my 2000 rd2 crv.
Trouble starting, I delays or caps or struggles to throttle. I change the idle air valve, gas filter, maps sensor. Still the same issue.
What's your recommendation?
Those center caps looked sick. I would have kept those puppies on.
Those aero disks look sick. They actually remind me a little of the C4 Corvette rims from a distance. I hope yall put some antiseize on those centercaps LOL.
Why didn’t you use the bolt buster???
What is that grey Mitsubishi in the background?
I love the obvious lack of safety inspections over there! Here in the UK that rusty hole would need welding up to pass the annual ministry of transport test, over there you just spray some stuff on it and keep on rockin' 😂
Guaranteed that the rocker panels under the plastic cover are rusted through.
@@craigiefconcert6493 Oh 100%, that rust has travelled up from the bottom. There'll be nothing left underneath, and that's all structural... I'm sure Fluid Film will slow the spread of surface rust but it's not going to hold your car together 😂
plsss do more eps for the crv
Its crazy your brother still has this, he still got the R6 still too?
Anybody know sum clean clear/smoked tailights for an 04? Or sum clean looking spoilers too
FINALLY!! something d
Fast!! 😂
first gen crv's are so cool, we got the kids a second gen but wish it was a first gen..
How about you do a 1996-1998 tacoma single cab 2wd makeover?
For the love of god plz mods or get another Crv and trick it out like its pimp my ride I been wearing for another vid on this car for years I haven’t smiled this hard in months
Man… wonder how those Hardrace bits will hold on to then Canada-land winters 😂
Sad you guys didn't fix that exhaust leak 😢
my felpro blue oil pan gasket also leaked after 2 months...
Aerodisc ❤