You need to bleed the air out through the coolent reservoir at 195 deg F by twisting the radiator cap just little to the pressure release position and the air will come out through the coolent reservoir, once the air pressure sounds have stopped tighten the cap back up and repeat until you don't hear anymore air being released. Definitely practice safety when doing this by use a rag on the radiator cap because it will be hot and also have your coolent mixture correct because the boiling point will be much higher and thats needed to get the air out. Normal temps are 195 - 198 deg F for coolent and my oil temp driving around town at 45 mph and below is 190 deg F and at 70 MPH highway cruising is 203 deg F.
Kirk Pitre I gotta get places on a daily so 80+ on the parkway might be the issue, but it also has a head gasket leak which keeps pushing most of the coolant out which I found out later on after this video
Rob Sinden 230-280° is a bit uncomfortable for someone who came from a Chevy sedan that could do three minute burnies and not even go past 210°, this Jeep rides around being babied at like 214° and up
I have a 2006 Chrysler 300c...it's currently having the whole engine replaced..i took it to a street mechanic and we went thru 3 different thermostats. They claimed none were opening. They replaced my water pump. Thru the bleeding coolant process...they blew a damn head gasket revving it up continuously...o n by the way they never bled it properly...it kept getting hot/overheating smh..my problem is solved now but i strongly advise that if u can't do it yourself..jus go to the professionals..I'm goin thru hell jus because i wanted a thermostat and water pump replaced smh...i ended up being out a whole damn engine..bigups to u tho!!👍💪keep learning💯
D'shon Thomas currently pulling the heads with not enough time to film, but the rebuild is about to happen once I get the heads from the shop and parts in the mail. Might do a time lapse. This truck has been a nightmare
Ifeel as if the bigger hemi engines are prone to burning these thermostats up...if it makes any sense....the fact that they get so hot...on a regular. Ifeel as if they beat on an Average Part
I’ve come to learn these hemis require a vacuum fill, tho I’ve tried a similar bleeding funnel and in the process of running the vehicle, after about 2 minutes of it running and up to temp, it exceed normal temps and soon enough coolant was spraying out of the funnel like a geyser. Unfortunately I haven’t been recording any of the other issues I’ve had because I’m honestly uneducated and needed to search around and try a few things before coming back. I’m now in the process of ordering a new remans engine because the reliability of the block is questionable at this point exceeding temps over 280° multiple times
Your "check engine" light should've gone out in 3 to 4 days after you plugged the sensor back in... Where was your coolant leak coming from in the begining of your video back at the parts store ???
I see this video is 2 years old but now my jeep Cherokee 2011 5.7 hemi wont get hot, I just made the engine burp a lot around 20 minutes and seems to be ok now👍
If this keeps happening get a head gasket tester for your coolant, trust me on this as hemis get hot, and if you lost heating/engine cooling this could be due to a bad head gasket from hot spots in the block where coolant is now entering the cylinder in small enough amounts to not throw a code or a bunch of smoke (other than an unusual amount of smoke on cold starts even in warm weather) or overheating caused by a stalled water pump getting air from the bearing seal that normally goes after 50k to 120k miles depending on how lucky you are with the stock one, which will also cause you to have a head gasket leak and lead to worse things like dropping valve seats if things up top top get more air rather than adequate coolant flow.
During and after this video I had a series of overheating issues caused by a head gasket leak on 3 out of 8 cylinders. I’ve since rebuilt the top end one time around, continued to have overheating issues, and now after questioning the reliability of the block after exceeding 280° on multiple occasions as well as melting the plastic intake manifold has lead me to getting a replacement crate. I will be doing a video on the swap soon to point out any abnormalities I see, because as I pointed out the belt wobbling, it was due to the seal and bearing prematurely wearing due to lack of lubrication, this is due to the head gasket filling the top of water pump housing with exhaust gasses. All in all, I’ve owned this vehicle for two years, put less than 30,000 miles on it, and still have not solved the overheating issue. A new engine could take care of all the variables including me not properly seating and torquing the heads. Just have to worry about getting the trans hooked up right 🤷🏻♂️ honestly anything that could go wrong might but this is the lesson I will take to my grave,”don’t buy a Jeep with a 5.7” not just for the sake of it overheating, but it lacks power like an srt would have, and fuel economy is non existent (could also be it running super rich because of coolant throwing off o2 sensors), but mostly the struggle of even a small guy like me squeezing around to loosen bolts is not worth it for the power this lacks along with the reliability I’ve come to read about across many of the gen 3 5.7L hemi forums. Mds, flat spotted cams, dropping valve seats. Haven’t had those issues yet, but if the vehicle continues to run under the conditions I’ve observed after this video all these failures will occur due to lack of oiling and cooling management
I have a 2011 dodge durango and my water pump stoped working the pulley got stock amd broked so i replace the waterpump amd the thermostat but my temp gauge wasnt going up it would only go up just a lil but when i drove it the gauge kept going down so i was searching on the internet and some peaple were saying that it could be the temp sensor so i replaced my tem sensor but it kept doing the same thing then i was told to bleed the water pump and i did it alot of bubbles came out but it keeps doing the same thing 😭😭😭😭 if someone knows what it could be or how to fix it let me know please.. i took it to a mechanic and he didnt even looked at it and the 1st thing he said was ohhh its the engine...
DJ LUNA if the heads are leaking exhaust gas into the cooling system this could be the reason for the temp sensor not being able to read a temp or only moving slightly. First make sure your thermostat is placed in correctly, there’s a little bubble bleeder hole that should be at the top when installing to help prevent air bubbles staying trapped in the top of the water pump near the temp sensor. This was a major issue on my Jeep where exhaust gas kept moving enough coolant out of the system to cause the sensor to no longer read a temp and then throw several other codes
During and after this video I had a series of overheating issues caused by a head gasket leak on 3 out of 8 cylinders. I didn’t continue on with this as I had no knowledge of what was actually going on. I still don’t and I’ve rebuilt the top end once to have the same issue, now looking for remanufactured engines to replace the stock 5.7 I’ve hit temps as high as 280° while casually driving on the parkway multiple times and the reliability of the block is questionable at this point.
@@markymark247 with the rebuild did the shop confirm the heads weren’t warped? If the heads weren’t checked for straightness then the head gasket would just fail again.
@@PhOeNiXpIoLe do you have Instagram? I can send you a picture of what the heads looked like after they came back from the shop. Least I can say is I’ll never be using said shop again after they rooky mistake they made while cleaning the heads. But according to the shop they weren’t warped yet we were still charged will mill time like they resurfaced them
I have to bleed mine every fucking 2 weeks or my heater and ac don’t work properly and it’ll burn the shit off quick, gonna test my shit to see if maybe I have a leak or bad head gasket
You need to bleed the air out through the coolent reservoir at 195 deg F by twisting the radiator cap just little to the pressure release position and the air will come out through the coolent reservoir, once the air pressure sounds have stopped tighten the cap back up and repeat until you don't hear anymore air being released. Definitely practice safety when doing this by use a rag on the radiator cap because it will be hot and also have your coolent mixture correct because the boiling point will be much higher and thats needed to get the air out. Normal temps are 195 - 198 deg F for coolent and my oil temp driving around town at 45 mph and below is 190 deg F and at 70 MPH highway cruising is 203 deg F.
Kirk Pitre I gotta get places on a daily so 80+ on the parkway might be the issue, but it also has a head gasket leak which keeps pushing most of the coolant out which I found out later on after this video
Marky Mark 24/7 was coolant leaking into the cylinders and burning or was it leaking out to outside of the block as shown in the video?
What about the engine block
Thermostat in a 5.7 opens at 203 degrees. They run a little hot...but yours is doing what it should.
Rob Sinden 230-280° is a bit uncomfortable for someone who came from a Chevy sedan that could do three minute burnies and not even go past 210°, this Jeep rides around being babied at like 214° and up
Yea 280 is too hot. But 200 to 240 is normal op temp for the 5.7l. They are designed to run hot.
I have a 2006 Chrysler 300c...it's currently having the whole engine replaced..i took it to a street mechanic and we went thru 3 different thermostats. They claimed none were opening. They replaced my water pump. Thru the bleeding coolant process...they blew a damn head gasket revving it up continuously...o n by the way they never bled it properly...it kept getting hot/overheating smh..my problem is solved now but i strongly advise that if u can't do it yourself..jus go to the professionals..I'm goin thru hell jus because i wanted a thermostat and water pump replaced smh...i ended up being out a whole damn engine..bigups to u tho!!👍💪keep learning💯
wow going though that now😬
D'shon Thomas currently pulling the heads with not enough time to film, but the rebuild is about to happen once I get the heads from the shop and parts in the mail. Might do a time lapse. This truck has been a nightmare
Ifeel as if the bigger hemi engines are prone to burning these thermostats up...if it makes any sense....the fact that they get so hot...on a regular. Ifeel as if they beat on an Average Part
Lisle Spill free funnel bleeds the system perfectly.
I’ve come to learn these hemis require a vacuum fill, tho I’ve tried a similar bleeding funnel and in the process of running the vehicle, after about 2 minutes of it running and up to temp, it exceed normal temps and soon enough coolant was spraying out of the funnel like a geyser. Unfortunately I haven’t been recording any of the other issues I’ve had because I’m honestly uneducated and needed to search around and try a few things before coming back. I’m now in the process of ordering a new remans engine because the reliability of the block is questionable at this point exceeding temps over 280° multiple times
Your "check engine" light should've gone out in 3 to 4 days after you plugged the sensor back in...
Where was your coolant leak coming from in the begining of your video back at the parts store ???
I see this video is 2 years old but now my jeep Cherokee 2011 5.7 hemi wont get hot, I just made the engine burp a lot around 20 minutes and seems to be ok now👍
If this keeps happening get a head gasket tester for your coolant, trust me on this as hemis get hot, and if you lost heating/engine cooling this could be due to a bad head gasket from hot spots in the block where coolant is now entering the cylinder in small enough amounts to not throw a code or a bunch of smoke (other than an unusual amount of smoke on cold starts even in warm weather) or overheating caused by a stalled water pump getting air from the bearing seal that normally goes after 50k to 120k miles depending on how lucky you are with the stock one, which will also cause you to have a head gasket leak and lead to worse things like dropping valve seats if things up top top get more air rather than adequate coolant flow.
That’s a normal temp. They run hot like that.
How long did it actually take you to get the result that everything was finished up?
During and after this video I had a series of overheating issues caused by a head gasket leak on 3 out of 8 cylinders. I’ve since rebuilt the top end one time around, continued to have overheating issues, and now after questioning the reliability of the block after exceeding 280° on multiple occasions as well as melting the plastic intake manifold has lead me to getting a replacement crate. I will be doing a video on the swap soon to point out any abnormalities I see, because as I pointed out the belt wobbling, it was due to the seal and bearing prematurely wearing due to lack of lubrication, this is due to the head gasket filling the top of water pump housing with exhaust gasses. All in all, I’ve owned this vehicle for two years, put less than 30,000 miles on it, and still have not solved the overheating issue. A new engine could take care of all the variables including me not properly seating and torquing the heads. Just have to worry about getting the trans hooked up right 🤷🏻♂️ honestly anything that could go wrong might but this is the lesson I will take to my grave,”don’t buy a Jeep with a 5.7” not just for the sake of it overheating, but it lacks power like an srt would have, and fuel economy is non existent (could also be it running super rich because of coolant throwing off o2 sensors), but mostly the struggle of even a small guy like me squeezing around to loosen bolts is not worth it for the power this lacks along with the reliability I’ve come to read about across many of the gen 3 5.7L hemi forums. Mds, flat spotted cams, dropping valve seats. Haven’t had those issues yet, but if the vehicle continues to run under the conditions I’ve observed after this video all these failures will occur due to lack of oiling and cooling management
@Jerilyn Ineson I don't have time to watch movies but I appreciate the channel engagement
They run. Around 203
203 degree thermostat
I have a 2011 dodge durango and my water pump stoped working the pulley got stock amd broked so i replace the waterpump amd the thermostat but my temp gauge wasnt going up it would only go up just a lil but when i drove it the gauge kept going down so i was searching on the internet and some peaple were saying that it could be the temp sensor so i replaced my tem sensor but it kept doing the same thing then i was told to bleed the water pump and i did it alot of bubbles came out but it keeps doing the same thing 😭😭😭😭 if someone knows what it could be or how to fix it let me know please.. i took it to a mechanic and he didnt even looked at it and the 1st thing he said was ohhh its the engine...
DJ LUNA if the heads are leaking exhaust gas into the cooling system this could be the reason for the temp sensor not being able to read a temp or only moving slightly. First make sure your thermostat is placed in correctly, there’s a little bubble bleeder hole that should be at the top when installing to help prevent air bubbles staying trapped in the top of the water pump near the temp sensor. This was a major issue on my Jeep where exhaust gas kept moving enough coolant out of the system to cause the sensor to no longer read a temp and then throw several other codes
@@markymark247 thank you very much
Mine has a 204 degree thermostat
203 is normal temp
Don’t start with no plug on the intake filter
203F is normal for the 5.7
During and after this video I had a series of overheating issues caused by a head gasket leak on 3 out of 8 cylinders. I didn’t continue on with this as I had no knowledge of what was actually going on. I still don’t and I’ve rebuilt the top end once to have the same issue, now looking for remanufactured engines to replace the stock 5.7 I’ve hit temps as high as 280° while casually driving on the parkway multiple times and the reliability of the block is questionable at this point.
@@markymark247 with the rebuild did the shop confirm the heads weren’t warped? If the heads weren’t checked for straightness then the head gasket would just fail again.
@@PhOeNiXpIoLe do you have Instagram? I can send you a picture of what the heads looked like after they came back from the shop. Least I can say is I’ll never be using said shop again after they rooky mistake they made while cleaning the heads. But according to the shop they weren’t warped yet we were still charged will mill time like they resurfaced them
@@markymark247 yeah I’d definitely like to check them out, just send me a link to them on here
@@PhOeNiXpIoLe instagram.com/p/B3aviGvAJJl/?igshid=3bmdwuzvbx2a
I have to bleed mine every fucking 2 weeks or my heater and ac don’t work properly and it’ll burn the shit off quick, gonna test my shit to see if maybe I have a leak or bad head gasket
Not the good coolant it’s orange 2 not yellow prestone
Video to long