Hi. I just discovered your channel and am a huge fan of your LR3 videos. I am an original owner of a 2005 LR3. My wife and I bought it to be used for our family before our first son was born! Fast forward to now he is driving it! I’ve had a couple of small issues over the years but nothing huge. I try and maintain it to the best of my ability. But after watching your videos I love my car again. You have great content on your channel. Keep those videos coming!
I am impressed you know that your car has a petrol engine. Everyone else in Las Vegas thinks it’s a gas engine. Love from England. I have a 2006 as well but it’s the diesel. (God help me)
I've got a 2006 Discovery 3 2.7lt diesel and had no problems untill 300,000 km. I then had to change the injectors and ERG values....expensive but its now running like a dream again
My keys work fine but the key fob is fallen apart , I just bought new key fob body and swap over the internal parts to new key fob body works good, have you check your lower front control arms I bet good money the one bushing completely worn out , many people say use a saw all not a grinder , well I own both tools and tried the saw all I felt it took too long and very noisy, I went with grinder with metal cut disc 7inch I bought 10 of them you may think that's a lot yes it is but it you bounce at times then take a small chip out OT disc I still used it until worn down ridge makes a metal diamond disc for cutting metal but I find the abrasive disc cuts faster and it will leave a mess on your floor over the metal disc 7inch metal disc by rigid about 30 bucks vs 4 dollars a abrasive disc , that's right 7 inch will do the trick take your time you will probably nick frame or not good lighting so you can see where your cutting grinder will get hot may cut off due to getting hot 7f you have 4.5 to 5 inch grinder , I used that size with a 7inch disc got job done Milwaukee brand but if you have a correct size grinder for disc may not get hot took about 4 disc for one bolt , I finally install my abc brakes and rotor and replace center wheel hub and new air bags top front control arms very easy , front complete next is rear top , bottom control arms. I only hope brake line breaks free , you think why land rover didn't design brake line like front upper control arm just undo 10mm nut brake like of without breaking line open my control arms was EOM and air bags looking forward to new feel of suspension once done and alignment
Hi Mike, can you please change the title of the video, because the lovely Tool from GAP-Diagnostic from Canada is called "IID-Tool". You missed the second "I". 😉 Thanks and keep on with these nice videos. 👍🏼
I hope you don't have the same bad expense with the ebay keys, mine would not keep a charge after a few months. Purchased replacement fobs from Lucky 8 and has been working fine for a year. I opened both up to inspect the circuit board and the ebay fob and Lucky8 fob circuit boards are different
I have a question...this is my 2nd Lr, and the navigation is always missing.. they'er always on Ebay for sale, but are the wires that connect the back of the navigation station just tucked away in back of that ugly cubby spot that they put there, are do i need a donor Lr for the connection that goes on that back of the navigation to where ever they connect to...I've not yet seen a video about putting one there and there wasn't one, lord knows that there's a lot of trucks like ours and they don't have that station there.... if you make the MISTAKE OF UPGRADING IT you and the truck LOSE THE ABILITY (UNLESS you have a gap tool and 97% of us don't) to communicate. meaning, EVERYTHING that it used to tell you , you now rely on the gap tool, and that's not what makes a land rover a land rover. so don't take it out and making say its an upgrade if it DOESN'T repeat what the 1st system did and better. Its called an Information station for a reason
You had one key that did not work. Did you get this working? Did you charge it up and if so, how did you do that? Just went through the process with my Lucky8 key and does not work. Hoping you can help. Thanks.
Great question Gordon! The LR3 ignition actually charges the internal battery in the remote. All you have to do is drive around and it should charge (which isn’t easy for me since I linked so many remotes).
Following along, my prompts are slightly different. It has me start the engine, then return the key to position 1. It will also only program 2 keys, and am looking to get the 3rd one done as well. Did you run into any hiccups?
@@wafflesquare I think I partly figured out my issue... my ignition seems a little sloppy, so I skipped position 1 with ease! But the process must have changed as far as starting the engine to initiate.
Hey I have a question. So basically I only had one original key to begin with and before I had time to make copies the key fob got ruined to the point that the immobilizer doesn't even work. I'm told to take it to the dealership where they can program a fresh key in this scenario. They keep trying to push a factory $400.00 key on me saying that the generic ones might not work or they aren't as quality. So yes I agree they might not last long and they aren't as quality. My question to you is do you have any idea if maybe a generic one can be used in this scenario in place of a factory one? Or can generic ones only be used to make copies when you have an original present? I need to know if I can take a generic one there and in this lost Keys scenario they can use a generic one as an initial one instead of a factory one to copy from.... So what do you think?? So far they just tell me they can't guarantee it but that's annoying because I just want to know if a generic one can be copied can it be an original? I don't need to be guaranteed anything I just need someone to tell me logically yes it should theoretically work as an original in this scenario and then I'll get a factory one down the road
@@wafflesquare yeah my original doesn't even work at the immobilizer chip level anymore. So it goes in the ignition I turn it but the red light flashes and it does not start because I think I fried the immobilizer chip which has nothing to do with the key fob ability to unlock the doors or not. The immobilizer chip doesn't even need electricity it's just read by the ignition cylinder area. But mine won't anymore and it did right before I tried to change the old battery and solder in the new one. So I'm just wondering can a generic one be programmed and fresh at the dealership in place of a factory one when no keys are present? Cuz I don't want to spend $400 on a factory one
@@wafflesquare the dealer says they can program a new factory key from scratch no keys working but they want me to use an original and I'm trying to find out if that's because they know the original last longer or because the original is somehow the only one that's able to be programmed from the get-go when no working key exists anymore
@@wafflesquare yeah the dealership doesn't even know they just recommend a factory one because they're trying to make money for the parts department haha they literally said at multiple dealerships that we are not sure either it will work or not but we're not sure and I'm like wow all I'm asking is if the generic ones are lower quality or actually different. But that's every dealership they're usually the most flaky places on Earth but have the best computer equipment well thank you I appreciate it
Now you can program the 3rd button on each key to perform a different function. Tailgate unlock, turn headlights and reverse lights on if you edit the CCF, turn on the alarm , or allow the remote to control the air suspension. 2:19 You are showing the instructions for a Range Rover L322 of 2006. You want to show: Key programming (VIN locked L319-04, L320-05) on page 126 of the current manual - GAP Diagnostic 2019-05-31 All Rights Reserved User Manual : Version 32, Firmware V3.0. I have just checked the manuals. You seem to be using the Beta version 34 for Firmware 4.0. with and different page numbers. You mentioned page 120, correct, but showed the top of page 121 with your big red arrow. Best not to use the V34 unless you are a Beta tester. No need for the battery charger as it takes seconds to do. You seem to be having problems with Land Rover's sister brand. It's: Jag YOU are. Jaguar. Or as most Brits call it it - Jaag, but that probably doesn't work in an American accent. Hope this helps.
Hi. I just discovered your channel and am a huge fan of your LR3 videos. I am an original owner of a 2005 LR3. My wife and I bought it to be used for our family before our first son was born! Fast forward to now he is driving it! I’ve had a couple of small issues over the years but nothing huge. I try and maintain it to the best of my ability. But after watching your videos I love my car again. You have great content on your channel. Keep those videos coming!
Favorite comment of the day!! Thank you, Manny, for your kind words and encouragement.
Imagine going to Land Rover to replace factory keys and they end up costing more than you paid for the rig!!!! The GAP is an absolute must.
I totally agree!!
There’s quite a few things you can get to do with your key. Like lowering the suspension to get in the vehicle etc. Gpx
Very true.
Thank You!
You are very welcome.
I am impressed you know that your car has a petrol engine. Everyone else in Las Vegas thinks it’s a gas engine. Love from England. I have a 2006 as well but it’s the diesel. (God help me)
Andi after watching LR Time explain the serious design flaws with the diesel engines, I feel for their owners.
I've got a 2006 Discovery 3 2.7lt diesel and had no problems untill 300,000 km. I then had to change the injectors and ERG values....expensive but its now running like a dream again
My keys work fine but the key fob is fallen apart , I just bought new key fob body and swap over the internal parts to new key fob body works good, have you check your lower front control arms I bet good money the one bushing completely worn out , many people say use a saw all not a grinder , well I own both tools and tried the saw all I felt it took too long and very noisy, I went with grinder with metal cut disc 7inch I bought 10 of them you may think that's a lot yes it is but it you bounce at times then take a small chip out OT disc I still used it until worn down ridge makes a metal diamond disc for cutting metal but I find the abrasive disc cuts faster and it will leave a mess on your floor over the metal disc 7inch metal disc by rigid about 30 bucks vs 4 dollars a abrasive disc , that's right 7 inch will do the trick take your time you will probably nick frame or not good lighting so you can see where your cutting grinder will get hot may cut off due to getting hot 7f you have 4.5 to 5 inch grinder , I used that size with a 7inch disc got job done Milwaukee brand but if you have a correct size grinder for disc may not get hot took about 4 disc for one bolt , I finally install my abc brakes and rotor and replace center wheel hub and new air bags top front control arms very easy , front complete next is rear top , bottom control arms. I only hope brake line breaks free , you think why land rover didn't design brake line like front upper control arm just undo 10mm nut brake like of without breaking line open my control arms was EOM and air bags looking forward to new feel of suspension once done and alignment
Hi Mike, can you please change the title of the video, because the lovely Tool from GAP-Diagnostic from Canada is called "IID-Tool". You missed the second "I". 😉 Thanks and keep on with these nice videos. 👍🏼
Done!
I hope you don't have the same bad expense with the ebay keys, mine would not keep a charge after a few months. Purchased replacement fobs from Lucky 8 and has been working fine for a year. I opened both up to inspect the circuit board and the ebay fob and Lucky8 fob circuit boards are different
I’ll keep track of their performance. Thank you for the tip!
I have a question...this is my 2nd Lr, and the navigation is always missing.. they'er always on Ebay for sale, but are the wires that connect the back of the navigation station just tucked away in back of that ugly cubby spot that they put there, are do i need a donor Lr for the connection that goes on that back of the navigation to where ever they connect to...I've not yet seen a video about putting one there and there wasn't one, lord knows that there's a lot of trucks like ours and they don't have that station there.... if you make the MISTAKE OF UPGRADING IT you and the truck LOSE THE ABILITY (UNLESS you have a gap tool and 97% of us don't) to communicate. meaning, EVERYTHING that it used to tell you , you now rely on the gap tool, and that's not what makes a land rover a land rover. so don't take it out and making say its an upgrade if it DOESN'T repeat what the 1st system did and better. Its called an Information station for a reason
You had one key that did not work. Did you get this working? Did you charge it up and if so, how did you do that?
Just went through the process with my Lucky8 key and does not work. Hoping you can help. Thanks.
Great question Gordon! The LR3 ignition actually charges the internal battery in the remote. All you have to do is drive around and it should charge (which isn’t easy for me since I linked so many remotes).
Thanks for the reply. The new key will not start the car. I can turn it fully to Start but nothing happens.
Key from Lucky8 simply does not work. Tried multiple times. GAP even says success but actually No.
@gordonwedman3179 the key I received with my purchase of the GAP ID tool from Lucky 8 works fine. I would attempt to exchange it with the seller.
Gordon I am working on a video about after market LR3 remotes that might be the solution!!
Following along, my prompts are slightly different. It has me start the engine, then return the key to position 1. It will also only program 2 keys, and am looking to get the 3rd one done as well. Did you run into any hiccups?
No the process went exactly as you see it in the video.
@@wafflesquare I think I partly figured out my issue... my ignition seems a little sloppy, so I skipped position 1 with ease! But the process must have changed as far as starting the engine to initiate.
Glad you’re making progress.
So this programs the immobilizer chip in the fob as well?
I don’t know.
@@wafflesquare I also live in Vegas and have been fixing my 2006 Range Rover Sport with help from your videos. Thanks for the help!
I’m so glad they’ve been helpful.
Hey I have a question. So basically I only had one original key to begin with and before I had time to make copies the key fob got ruined to the point that the immobilizer doesn't even work. I'm told to take it to the dealership where they can program a fresh key in this scenario. They keep trying to push a factory $400.00 key on me saying that the generic ones might not work or they aren't as quality. So yes I agree they might not last long and they aren't as quality. My question to you is do you have any idea if maybe a generic one can be used in this scenario in place of a factory one? Or can generic ones only be used to make copies when you have an original present? I need to know if I can take a generic one there and in this lost Keys scenario they can use a generic one as an initial one instead of a factory one to copy from.... So what do you think?? So far they just tell me they can't guarantee it but that's annoying because I just want to know if a generic one can be copied can it be an original? I don't need to be guaranteed anything I just need someone to tell me logically yes it should theoretically work as an original in this scenario and then I'll get a factory one down the road
This procedure clones an “original” key, whether or not the buttons are functional.
@@wafflesquare yeah my original doesn't even work at the immobilizer chip level anymore. So it goes in the ignition I turn it but the red light flashes and it does not start because I think I fried the immobilizer chip which has nothing to do with the key fob ability to unlock the doors or not. The immobilizer chip doesn't even need electricity it's just read by the ignition cylinder area. But mine won't anymore and it did right before I tried to change the old battery and solder in the new one. So I'm just wondering can a generic one be programmed and fresh at the dealership in place of a factory one when no keys are present? Cuz I don't want to spend $400 on a factory one
@@wafflesquare the dealer says they can program a new factory key from scratch no keys working but they want me to use an original and I'm trying to find out if that's because they know the original last longer or because the original is somehow the only one that's able to be programmed from the get-go when no working key exists anymore
Sounds like a question for the dealership. I’m sorry I can’t be more helpful.
@@wafflesquare yeah the dealership doesn't even know they just recommend a factory one because they're trying to make money for the parts department haha they literally said at multiple dealerships that we are not sure either it will work or not but we're not sure and I'm like wow all I'm asking is if the generic ones are lower quality or actually different. But that's every dealership they're usually the most flaky places on Earth but have the best computer equipment well thank you I appreciate it
Now you can program the 3rd button on each key to perform a different function. Tailgate unlock, turn headlights and reverse lights on if you edit the CCF, turn on the alarm , or allow the remote to control the air suspension.
2:19 You are showing the instructions for a Range Rover L322 of 2006. You want to show: Key programming (VIN locked L319-04, L320-05) on page 126 of the current manual - GAP Diagnostic 2019-05-31 All Rights Reserved User Manual : Version 32, Firmware V3.0.
I have just checked the manuals. You seem to be using the Beta version 34 for Firmware 4.0. with and different page numbers.
You mentioned page 120, correct, but showed the top of page 121 with your big red arrow.
Best not to use the V34 unless you are a Beta tester.
No need for the battery charger as it takes seconds to do.
You seem to be having problems with Land Rover's sister brand. It's: Jag YOU are. Jaguar. Or as most Brits call it it - Jaag, but that probably doesn't work in an American accent.
Hope this helps.