Training For The World's Strongest Fingers (ft. Allison Vest & Tom Randall)
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2023
- FULL PODCAST EPISODE 🎙️
open.spotify.com/episode/2wwM...
Over the last few years, Allison has risen to the position of one of the most accomplished outdoor boulderers in the world having climbed up to V14, which is also on top of a track record of multiple competition podiums for indoor competition climbing. On top of this, she’s someone who has a prolific social media presence, seamlessly connecting between content that’s both light-hearted and serious, but always with such an accessible style. We wanted to get her back on the podcast to talk about all things performance, training and bouldering focused.
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One arm hanging with 31.75 kilos is absolutely absurd. I can't even imagine what having that level of strength feels like on the wall.
would have loved to hear more about the specifics about how she got some of the world's strongest fingers...
Missing the topic… 😅
Genetics?
exactly, what I got from this video is train with 2 coaches and you get strong
To me this was much more interesting. Especially the discussion about trying to peak all the time and how your physique but also mental capasity for hard climbing will decline surprisingly fast. Everyone who's followed lattice or any climbing channel posting training related content should know by now that there are no short cuts. You just have to put in the work to that training week in and week out, and you will get there eventually. There is no secret protocol that makes you climb V14 in three months. That said: yeah, the video misses the tittle.
The short answer is: GENETICS
So how did she get it... -_-
I feel like we didn't get the answer to the title of the video xD
it's clickbait
I had to go back and make sure I really saw her hanging one handed on her fingers with 70lbs added. HOLY!
For me I know I need to start an endurance cycle when I have just peaked in power/strength. I'm not sure if it a mental or physical thing probably a bit of both.
So..... how?
This is in no way to take away from the dedication and effort and talent of Allison, nor her expertise in continuously developing her legendary finger strength, but part of the conversation being about her levers might be refreshing. I have seen her scores for one handed lifts on edges and one handed pulldowns on bars, and when she says she has trouble locking off... this is about her levers and not exactly her strength. Few people may ever be able to generate torque through the fingers in the way Allison does, and it is incredible to see all of the grip feats she does, but the context of this and why hanging one armed from a 20mm feels almost impossible for a different athlete would be useful.
My arms are basically the same length as hers since I’m 6’0 +4” and I’m also really bad at lockoffs but sadly I have horrible finger strength lol. These days hanging 2 handed at bodyweight on a 15mm edge is my limit even if I can climb v8/9. All I can do is hope hangboarding more can unlock this long arm super finger power 😅
@@slapthesloper I nearly fell off the couch when she mentioned her wingspan/height in the podcast. What an outlier! Her shoulders do look rather broad. I'm suspecting that she is also extremely good at keeping her scapula depressed while hanging
@@slapthesloper flexor tendon insertion points and general finger morphology will also play a significant role, and as said forearm/arm ratios will play a bigger role than strict arm length.
She still definitely has amazing shoulder and back strength, but what allows her to especially apply this at the levels we see is morphology.
There is a really good podcast by Malcom Gladwell diving into how female athletes progress physically in sport vs men. Very enlightening
Oohhhh I love a MG podcast, what's the name of the podcast/episode?
How did she get strong fingers...
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Last
threed
But at the end she is not the worlds best female climber, so strong fingers is not all in climbing and that's what's I like so much in this sport.
And guys, please try to get a better video quality, this hurts my 👀 😅
Distasteful comment.
In the podcast she does acknowledge this at around 22:15 saying her friends boulder harder and can barely hang off the BM middle edge with body weight
1st
Second
Don’t watch the video if you want the answer
Terrible…