Instantly improve your SLOPERS with these pro climbing techniques
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- Опубліковано 22 тра 2024
- Join me and climbing coach Louis Parkinson (@CatalystClimbing ) for a coaching session focussed on improving your SLOPERS.
In this slopers 101 session, Louis shares his top tips for improving climbing performance on slopers. We cover some top tips and techniques to instantly improve, some on the wall examples of best sloper practice and Louis shares some strength and conditioning exercises that you can incorporate into your training to get stronger in the open hand grip type!
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So many climber channels are just super buff athletes doing ridiculous problems. I really appreciate your videos as they are more relatable that you don’t have to be a super buff athlete that only films successes. Seeing the progression of failing while you figure out the beta and seeing improvement each time is SO much more motivating for just beginner average climbers like me. Thank you for being a climber content maker for those of us not ready to free solo El Capitan…
I appreciate that! Thanks so much for your kind comment :)
This this this!!! @hannahmorrisbouldering is the most accessible climbing channel. Hannah + Louis is Climbing - Ego. Love it.
throwing shade at the meatball haha
Louis is such a great coach. Always encouraging with positive reinforcement making you feel more and more excited to keep on trying even if the boulder feels impossible. Heck even I wanted to try out slopers now, even though it's 1am at night :p.
Couldn't agree more! I always have such a great session when I climb with him. Gives me lots of confidence to try things! :)
I love it. Hearing Louis say "you did all the work." As if we didn't all just watch him spin some voodoo wrist magic into Hannah. He's such an awesome human.
Right? If I was rich I'd hire Louis and coach B as a dream team coaching duo and build them a huge academy/dream gym to coach me and all the little future olympians and happy climbers. Hahaha everyone pray for me to hit the lottery.
@@ikarosdream5971 - who is coach B?
Oh just realised Be as in Belinda from GB team. Yes that would be a powerful coaching team!
Incredibly satisfying progression on the boulder. Something about someone dialling in so much is really captivating. Moving really well; super enjoyable content!
Haha the internal stress of maybe not sending was definitely starting to settle in! 😳. I should have known not to question the process! 😎
Ahhh my good ol anti-style...slap those badboys then walk away lol
Dialing in on that money for 7 minutes of a video is 4 minutes of ad with the rest common sense. Just to have the rest of the video be common sense the only way to improve at climbing is by climbing
i just got so excited by the insight at 15:40, where the direction of your hand while pushing can make you stick to the wall better!
I'm convinced that it's the crux of a climb I'm working on... Now I just have to wait until tomorrow night to try it out! Yay!!! Thanks Louis and Hannah!!
Amazing! Best of look with your project :D
Louis' teaching is pure gold! This and watching him climb gives me one aha moment after another (especially hand/foot/body placement). Hannah did a great job following his instructions. Louis is always so happy when his advice works out ;) Thanks for the exercises at the end.
Honestly, slopers might be my favorite routes when I can do them because they look hard/impressive, feel great when done right, and it really forces me to think and move carefully. Other routes, I can brute force my way up or break betas, but slopers force me to use all of my body.
Ooooh interesting! I do actually rather enjoy a sloper route once I've cracked the beta. You're absolutely right that it forces you to think differently about your approach to the climb. :)
One of my most satisfying bouldering moment was when I tried something that felt super sketchy on a weirdly placed sloper and suddenly it clicked and felt super super secure.
i really like the format of showing how you were struggling with a climb, and then Louis came along and point out the mistake and suggest different ways of doing it. otherwise even if we had watched how the pros did it over and over, we still might not noticed the nuance of the position of hand, foot, body positioning, how and when to apply pressure, etc..
thanks again Hannah and team for bringing us these great coaches. Louis is really amazing 👍👍👍
Louis' coaching style is so epic. The positivity and encouragement is fantastic. Always asking questions and answering them with suggestions, but not always "Here's how to do it" is fantastic because the climber has to think of what works for THEM individually. Terrific work Hannah. Your progression is encouraging for all of us watching to go try more and more and not worry about failing.
One variation of the wrist curl for forearms, i would open my fingers as much as i can to help strengthen fingers at the same time like Hannah was doing slightly. Get ready for the burn though.
I am not ready for the burn!
Agreed, Louis is such an encouraging coach and he is so good at getting you to think critically about the decisions you're making on the wall so it feels like you're figuring it out for yourself rather than just being told! :) Really appreciate the comment
I hadn't bouldered in like 10 years but I started going to the bouldering gym a few days ago and when my grip is inevitably shot after like an hour I just do all the sloper routes. Probably one of my favorite things to climb now. Nothing more satisfying.
I am a beginner climber (54). This is such an awesome way of sharing information BC I can see the micro stages of the climb and they are explained so well. Thank you ☺️
If you pause at 14:25 it's interesting to note the biomechanical body shape differences between you two, and how they may affect climbing. Most specifically, the different lengths of your leg segments: with nearly equal hip height, your upper and lower legs are quite similar in length, while his upper leg is quite short compared to his lower. It's most easily noticed in difference in knee height. Perhaps this helps him in movements such as where he easily sits his hip over his foot while you had more difficulty.
He would be a really good runner, biomechanically having leg segment lengths similar to a cheetah with the long lower leg, whereas you would probably be a more powerful lifter
Edit: interestingly, looks similar in his upper limbs as well, with shorter upper arm and long forearm
This is such a fascinating insight. I've never really considered bio-mechanics beyond height and span, but it makes total sense that your limbs/proportion etc would effect how you move on the wall.
As a short person who is trying to get into climbing, I’ve become very aware of this. It has helped me tackle some problems in ways that taller people cannot, but it also has meant that some routes are clearly designed for people with different body types
@@drvba8185 I'm tall and sometimes you can cheat and reach a hold by skipping over a bad one, but you also sort of have to scrunch up into awkward positions that are natural for shorter ppl too. You win some you lose some basically.
At the tender age of 42, i am considering having a go of climbing. This was captivating! From a lay persons perspective it was so informative, i was egg-ing you on! Cool teacher too!
Go for it! I started climbing 6 months ago and can’t get enough! I’m 40!
Yeaaaaa. Do it! Climbing is such a wonderful sport - I’m certain you’ll love it! 😊
Have a go at it, i got back into it about 2 months ago, and just turned 42 myself! It's awesome! (the climbing, not the aging, but that's okay-ish on most days as well 😄)
Slopers are my favorite and best holds haha although I am trash at open handing things.
I think you can progress your strength at them a lot faster than crimps as well because it’s more fully body strength than tendon strength which takes a long time.
Also most of the tips applicable to being good on slopers like direction of pull, hips in, brushing really just make every hold type / position better so improving slopers improves everything
'How many reps?' 'More' 😂
But seriously Louis is a phenomenal teacher. Keeps it light hearted, very reassuring, with a great eye for detail and gives precise detailed advice. Was so satisfying to see Hannah conquer that climb with his help.
I love the progression of the video. It's like a story on its own. The struggle, the tension and the success. Great job.
Just discovered your channel and has been binging it. I am a plateaud climber at around v5-v6, and your videos are so educational. It is not just simple tips, but you really get a whole concept in them. I feel that I learn so much, thank you!
A+ content. Your videos are so helpful - watching you maybe initially struggle with something, then learn and work your way through sending a problem is better adapted for visual learning and really understanding that process than when someone just explains the theory and then performs it easily without any visual problem-solving. And love the hacks and training tips!
Great video and tips! I suffer from wrist instability on slopers so all of this will be super helpful!
Also, when talking about grip types, I prefer the classification that @Hooper'sBeta does, based on the hyperextension of the DIP joint. Half crimp the last finger joint is streight, full crimp it's flexed, closed crimp is flexed + thumb around it. Both full crimp and closed crimp poses risk to finger injury, the latter way more. Would still need to be trained to prevent injuries either on the wall or on the hangboard.
Looking forward to more videos!
Love the collabs with you and Louis, your energy seems to work really well together. I'll have to try some of these tips next time I'm at the climbing gym, definitely going to have to wait a few days in this heat though 😅
Hope you have a good sloper session when you do! Great to hear you like the collabs 😊😊
I really love Louis, his style is such a great change of pace for some athletes. Very genuine and clearly loves to see people grow and unlock new abilities, a true coach.
I found this so helpful! I'm absolutely terrible with slopers and I think I'll try a few more after watching this.
Love the colour grading in your videos as always too!
I love that you're not editing out all the fails, but just tweak a little more here and there, until it works. Great video!
Thank you so much for creating and sharing your channel! It’s very welcoming and helpful!
You are so welcome!
Just want to say that this is probably my favorite climbing video ever. Felt super relatable and informative. Thanks for all your hard work :)
Wow, thank you! Really appreciate that! 😊
Really glad I found this, I’ve got a couple climbs. I’m struggling on with big slopers. I will try to apply this.
Really high quality content, and super informative. Keep it up, Hannah!
Really nice video!! Especially the TRX exercises at the end are interesting, definitely need to try them!
Seeing your progression over the years has helped me be more confident with myself in the gym x even when friends are flashing problems. Honestly love ur vids and they really have helped me x
That’s so nice to hear! Great to hear you’re finding confidence in your own climbing too. You learn most from climbing when you go at your own pace and take the small wins!!😊
Hannah, your perseverance is inspiring! When I think you're going to stop trying (I would have probably stopped long before) you keep going and make it! Always nice to see your videos
Thank you so much Lara, really glad you enjoyed the video!!😀
I loved watching the progress on the boulder! I've not been climbing long and usually if I feel like I can't do it, I just give up! But this definitely shows that with technique and persistence you can grow so much. Thank you both for an amazing video! 😁
Thank you! Great to hear that watching the videos is motivating - hope you keep living climbing :)
That's the first video I've watched from you, I've seen a few more recent ones since then, but this is definitely the best coaching session of the bunch. His advices are so precise, and he is so good at providing the right amount of help so you overcome. But the one dedicated to footwork from a month ago was particularly good aswell.
I enjoy your channel because your are humble and very resilient. Keep it up!
Appreciate that, I hope you enjoy some more of the coaching content on the channel. Thanks for watching and. comme nting! :)
First time commenter, but ive really enjoyed watching your abilities grow. You're so strong and have so much potential. It's crazy some of the problems you've been able to hang on to and top. Very impressive. I can't wait to see you another year from now. Get it girl!
Thank you very much for commenting & thanks so much for the kind words. 😅😅😊😊
I've been surfing the net today looking for vids and ideas about sloper training and then... as if by magic... this video! Love these collabs with Louis, they're so useful and fun :)
Hehe that’s funny! Glad you’re liking the collabs so far! 😍
Great video! He is an amazing coach he articulates what he wants you to do very well.
Your account has helped so much in the past two months as I started taking climbing serious, I’ve always climbed whatever I can, but it feels good having structure and challenge within something I already love. The stoke is high
Amazing! That's so great to hear :D
Great great video to see the progression , commitment and the learning!
Really glad you liked it!
Love the channel since I am a beginner in bouldering. I can relate with the noise at 11:06.
Great coaching session. Really enjoyed them all
Great to hear ☺️
very useful, I didn't know and I will already apply it in my next training session . thanks
Super useful, thanks for making this Hannah.
This video made me smile so much. It looked near impossible at the start and then by the end, wow! I feel proud, I am a V2/V3 climber and you are my inspiration. Thanks for sharing your bouldering journey with the world :)
This is such a lovely message, thank you!
I concur about open hand/half crimp climbing. I started doing it because I hate getting callous on my palms when climbing on jugs. It’s hard at first but after a month or so you’ll notice the change in strength.
Well done both. Hannah’s perseverance was so good, with Louis coaching being as encouraging and skilful as it is, failure was just not an option. I enjoyed the vid, thank you.
Yes! Thank you!
One more thing to it - 6-17min check heel/foot angles of left foot on volume as they try to sit on that foot... Hannah's heel is pointing more inwards than Louis which makes a huge difference as well as that palm orientation. Once Hannah switched the hand she also changed her foot direction into better orientation... Thank you, it is very nicely shown how to move with more flow.
Yes exactly, around 13 mins in she switched and was able to rock up straight away.
Great climbing Hannah. Looked smooth ehrn you linked all the moves together. Love yhe way you and Louis explain the holds.
Thank you! Always appreciate your comments ☺️
This was so helpful! Slopers are definitely one of my biggest weaknesses in climbing. I've been trying to get better at them by just getting on slopey climbs more, but it's good to know more specifically what to pay attention to when I do :) Also I've been meaning to start doing those wrist exercises for years - thanks for the reminder 😅
You are so welcome! Louis' big piece of advice to me was to just climb more slopers, so you're taking the right approach! I tend to avoid them because I don't like them so much but I'm definitely going to make sure I face up to them more often! :)
Super solid video! Took all the tips that Louis gave you and applied it to a problem I was struggling on, and I sent it within a few tries!
Yay that’s amazing to hear!
Such a good video, I’m a novice climber and just had no clue where to start when training to do slopers. This gives me a lot of ways to start putting in lots of practice
Really great to hear - hope you find the tips useful for your next sloper project!
Gotta love the algorithm, been recommended this after 2 hours of trying slopers for the first time this morning 🤙 brilliant video as always, super motivational, educational and inspirational. Louis' a baller too 👌
Both of you are just so positive and gentle when speaking. I absolutely love it. I'm ready to try out some slopers after watching this!
Really glad you liked the video! Go crush those slopers 😅
I really enjoyed watching this video! Just what I needed :) Would love having Louis as a coach, he is doing a great job - super satisfying watching you succeed on the red one!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This video speaks loads for how much coaching can do. Louis is incredible
Right?! Always such a great learning experience. 😊
You are a great combo! The quality of your videos is really impressive.
Thanks Brian! Means a lot to me.
I really like the idea of working the crux using surrounding holds from other routes to feel where the grip is. I will be doing this on future climbs im struggling with.
Really helps to get a feel for the movement and break down the beta! 😌
that hand position made all the difference wow! louis is a great coach really supportive and encouraging, and hannah is a great student
This is a really really great video! Louis is so helpful with his advice and I will be trying it out at the gym :)
Glad you liked it and hopefully the tips help! 🤗
I hate slopers for the bad feeling of sliding off holds. But I love them for the good feeling of finally finding a method that feels right. In the end, most sloper problems are pretty flowy and balancy when you get a good feel for them. And then they often feel really nice. They also give my fingers a rest from all the crimps I pulled way too hard on before, due to bad footwork :'D
Also I cannot stress often enough how great a coach Louis is! Absolutely mind-blowing and so supportive and positive!
Really quick turn around time with editing and all that props to whoever edited this in especially in this heat
Lots of the edit was done during the nights when I couldn’t sleep because of the heat haha! ☺️😨😨🥵
This was so helpful! Love it.
Glad you liked it 🥰
Amazing session you guys! Now I wanna go climb some slopey boulders! :) Great work Hannah, I really loved to see you send it
I do think that you were both right about adding a grade for the heat wave. And it's a great lesson for the old adage 'do more of what you hate'. I have never met anyone who loved slopers ;-) Interesting Louie talked about a 3 finger hold. Dave Macleod does a banging vid on his best hold - 3 fingers.
Definitely have been learning that 'do more of what you hate' means you're less likely to hate it hehe. Thanks for the video recommendation - I love Dave's stuff so will definitely be seeking that one out! :)
Hannah, you are a great climber, a quick learner and perhaps more than anything else, a REALLY talented person, not only but also with regards to doing these bouldering videos (just don't know you, but suspect you might be great at a grillion other things in life too :)!);
Louis, you are an AMAZING coach, really empathic, beautifully specific and great at showing and describing methods/etc ... and on top of that, just in case you ever need to look for an alternative: you could probably make a living as a great stand-up comedian or kids' entertainer/magician :D!!
(and yes, I also learned LOADS from this one video alone, so THANK YOU so much for your time, dedication and energy!!!!)
Was super cool to see you both just wander into my place of work! Glad you enjoyed your time with us here at Parthian Southampton!
Ahhhh hi! Thanks for being so accommodating - we had a great time! 😊
Very valuable lessons/tips! I just wanna say thank you Hannah and your partner for consistently creating climbing video contents. It would be dreadful without you guys and other climbing channels that are still consistent with posting videos
Wow thank you Damian! I really appreciate that a lot. Glad you liked the tips and hopefully you find them useful in your own climbing! I’ll be creating videos for as long as people still want to watch, hehe 🤩
Open hand climbing, aka slothing, is such a good technique to get stronger. It's what I did when rehabbing my finger post injury. Definitely going to incorporate these into trying slopers a bit more as currently I'm terrible!
You’ll find me open hand climbing in the gym more often for sure. This drill really made me realise how unintuitive a grip type it is for me.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I think it's true for most of us. Trying to love slopers more due to them being one of the holds injury's agree with a bit more!
Louis is the real deal - what an amazing coach. Thank you so much for being human and incredibly relatable Hannah, this was an epic video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Really satisfying video! More videos with Anna and Louis please! Can't get enougn haha
thank you. I will try these things as well now
Hope they help! 😊
It was SO interesting ! Thanks ♥
Awesome tips, all these little subtle position switches and foot and hand rotations make all the difference!
Glad you liked it! Amazing how the smallest changes make such a big impact. :)
Thank you for this channel, I agree with some of the other commenters, as a new climber it's hard to watch "instructional" videos from expert where they cruise through a problem and say "see how I did my feet?" when you just didn't. These videos are so much better. Are you wearing two different shoes?
Thanks a lot for making this video, especially the part about how to train for the long term. Nice! Merci bc
Glad you liked it!
Louis a genius. I love to see a slow figuring out of the puzzle and taking something seemingly impossible into doable, nice one Hannah!
Thanks Reece! Glad you enjoyed it :)
I think you're super brave to put yourself out there and show your learnings in the video!
I'm gonna subscribe to the channel
I would love to see similar stuff but also with a female pro/coach.
An interesting bit was shared by Tomoa Narasaki (on their Tamy climbing YT channel) about how to apply pressure to slopers when you're holding them in compression (hugging them) - apparently he tries to apply more force through the pinky sides of his hands, as this forces his big back muscles (latissimus dorsi) to engage more.
Louis is such a great coach and awesome video!
Thank you!
so good! well done hannah
Thank you! ☺️☺️
This video is so helpful! Louis is fantastic 🙂
Hey Sabrina! Glad you liked the video 👏
That Omar bobat in the background!! I see you buddy😂😂
Spotted! 😎
16:51 wow the effect of the pressing technique is really significant
Great progression Hannah! Would be super cool to see what impact dedicated strength training had on your climbing:)
I think, homework 1 just made me realise something. When I was new to climbing, I hated crimps for a long time but always kinda liked slopers. I now understand why, I think. I used to climb with the open hand technique most of the time. It just felt more natural. Even on the fingerboard I trained in the open hand position. Meanwhile I trained my half crimp way more (still working on full crimp) and got more confident on crimps. It all makes sense now.
It’d be great to have Louis as a coach, but even just having a *friend* who believes in you that much must be amazing! His friends are lucky.
Would love to see how to use shoulder, back, and lats while holding a big sloper! Awesome video hannah!
That’s a great idea! Glad you liked it 😊
Loads of great advice as usual
This video makes me so happy. I grinned so hard when Hannah finally sent that first problem.
Awww, thank you! So glad you liked it :)
thank you!
That wrist trick is friggig amazing! in 4 years of climbing I never thought about that. Louis you are a coaching god!
Legend!
Louis... you are amazing. Yo bring the best climber out of people so effortlessly!
Wahoo! Definitely makes a much more confident climber 😊
🗽 I like Louis! He is such a strong climber and a nice person. 👍
I have learned a bit more about the mantle... thx.
.
Great video!
Thank you!
I love slopers, it's easy to be good at them with proper technique and it's hard to build power boulders around slopers.
Such a cool video, great progress Hannah, and so detailed in the explanations, you two make a great team! One question remains though, what's up with the different shoes on the red sloper problem? were the orange ones too stiff for the move on the volume?
The Orange one's are my go to shoe at the moment - but they're a size too big for me, so I used the other pair just to feel more secure on the left foot :)
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I see, nice to have options! Thanks for the reply, and keep on crushing it!
Great lessons for slopers here but Check out that Omar Bobat warmup climb @20:05 - 20:45
I was wondering if other folks caught that!
im diggin the collabs with louis!!
I’m glad! ☺️☺️
I love your videos! Louis is a great coach :)
Thank you! He’s good at what he does!
He’s so good… and also, stellar bloody effort Hannah!!!
Thank you!
Great Video!
Thanks Jacob! Appreciate it 😊
12:12 having your hip over the foot in that position is a biomechanical advantage you get to use, unlike smaller climbers who need to work a lot harder to get any kind of weight and traction transferred over there.
Where's your top from Hannah?! Love it! Such good climbing, can't wait to try slopers next time.