I understand this is an older video but a fantastic job on the installation of the valve block and the video itself. No obnoxious music and excellent voice over. Great job and thank you!👍🏼
As an owner of cl63, I Love this channel and appreciate your hard work to film your maintenance on your Benzo! Keep it up, it encourages mercedes lovers to work on their rides themselves
4:25 "At this point I disconnected the front right line, and you can see the shock move up for some reason". The vertical position of the wheel reflects an equilibrium between pressure in the air bag, and tension in the shock. When you disconnect the air bag, there is no longer pressure in it, so the tension in the shock makes the wheel move up. Thanks for the nice video, going for it on my 2013 E550 now.
Excellent video, thank you so much! Just wanted to ask you how you got to the conclusion that the issue was with the valve block, and not an air bag or the compressor. Thank you in advance!
Excellent job. I’m in the same position just bought a CLS 550 thought I saved $4K got it home and 3 days later without driving it , I found it slammed starting with the front left wheel.
My cls550 did the same thing, i replaced the passenger front airstrut…..now 2 years later both my rears randomly go flat overnight sometimes….if i mess with the buttons and/or play with the wires going to valveblock it will air back up….but i still get a malfunction signal on speedo…tommarow i will replace the valve block
First off, thanks so much for doing this. There’s so few people willing to take on these cars, your channel is an awesome resource. I’ve got an 07 s550 that is not raising at all. I bought it with a sensor issue and the front was a bit low, but a few weeks later the thing slammed completely and won’t come up. I can get the compressor to run, but it doesn’t seem to be lifting the car at all. Not sure what the best way to check if I got a valve block issue or a compressor issue. As far as a scanner, I have an icarsoft MB II which can only read overall values but can’t check specific systems. Thanks again for all your content.
I think we have the same scanner. Have you scanned the airmatic subsystem and checked for codes? If it's having a problem it should post codes there. Something about "refill time too long" would indicate a leak somewhere in the system. The scanner should also show you level sensor readings (to make sure the level sensors are showing normal outputs) and tank air pressure.
@@letsdailydriveans5507 can you make a video of scanner how it looks, i need to buy it, i have r class 2011, i have same issue i suppose. Thanks for video helped me alot
I own a W211 E320, the rear bellows come down after a few days when parked, but there is no problem while driving, I hope it is caused by a small hose crack, the test device does not show any malfunction, your video is very useful, I congratulate you, I subscribed to me, I can repair my own vehicle, but I do not have a garage, you are very lucky you are younger than my son but you are doing very well
I have to say. I hope I find a crack where you found one. Thank man really tho thank you. It was hard finding an airline video. I’ve replaced everything myself. This time I felt like it was to soon. I’m going to check that.
Great video at least u show how to take valve block out,I have GL 350 I have to change the valve block, left rear does not respond to go down or up but all others three responding to the scanner, so I think valve block is no good, rear left is too high can not bring it down, Thanks for the video
You know I have a problem with my W211/ E550. 2008 Airmatic left wheel. I replaced the strut already. I thought I'm set! NOT! the Airmatic pump kicked in after starting the engine. Went to the correct ride height! Then turned off. My left front went right back down. I raised it again to double check everything even torch specs. Cleaned all the electrical components connectors. Made sure every one of them clicked on the other connectors. OK I'm set now. It worked. Yeppie! Then I checked all Airmatic settings inside the Car. Worked really great, then I turned my wheel left and the pump came on again? Then straight. Everything is fine. Then turned my steering wheel to the left. The left front side went down again. I pulled the wheel off. Checked everything again including the ride height sensor. Everything was fine. I am waiting for a W211 air compressor valve block hoping it will solve this problem 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with this Airmatic system. Sounds very similar!
Very well done video. I've always feared the repairs on an Airmatic Benz, so we have always bought models that didnt come with it. I think I may expand my collection now to include Airmatic models. :-)
Thanks for the video. I'm guessing your car was sinking consistently no matter where or how it was parked? I think valve body issue is when the car will sink randomly, e.g. sometimes in 10 minutes or other times, will not drop at all, for over a 1 week.
excellent work! I have a 2014 CL550 with 10K miles and the front struts were replaced along with the sensors. I think they didn't need replacing because the car has been in a very acclimate climate. Anyway, that was the previous owners problem. I am having an issue where the front LH side, as soon as I lock the door,the front passenger side drops 1/2', then makes some high frequency noises and drops another 1/2" and later the rear on the same side follows suit. The car stays up in the highest position without any issue. I figure the valve body is defective. Thanks for your video.
It could be normal, the car will self-level when you lock and unlock the doors. If it doesn't look normal, then the front left level sensor could be faulty and telling the car to drop more than it should. You can check the sensor's readings with an advanced scanner, or ask the dealer to check it out.
I have a 2013 S550 and I'm experiencing an issue where the right side keeps sagging. The suspension compressor stopped working, so I replaced it. However, the new compressor still doesn't turn on. I've checked the relays and confirmed there's power. My question is: if the valve block is malfunctioning, could it prevent the compressor from turning on at all, or should the compressor still activate regardless of the valve block's status? Essentially, I want to know if a faulty valve block can stop the compressor from even starting up.
Why did you decide it was the valve block and bought a new one instead of just check the condition of the lines? Btw that random pump next to the airmatic pump is the power steering pump.
Power steering pump! Thanks for clarifying, I always wondered. I bought the valve block because I had done a leak test and no bubbles appeared, so I figured it was the valves.
So you changed the valve block, but in the process noticed there was also an issue with the airline. So you fixed the air line and connected it to the new valve block. Was the issue a bad airline? …or the valve block? What did I miss here?
Just bought another CL a few days ago. The dealership diagnosed the valve block electrical part as defective. $1,895, I said “no thank you”. I love having something to do, so I just ordered a valve block and will be doing the job in a few days. Did you do anything to support the rear or just let it drop?
I was gifted an 2002 S500 .. it’s got an issue where over night the rear would be ok the floor .. where should I begin to look at to diagnose the problem? And also another issue it’s got, is the battery would die within minutes after shutting the vehicle off, maybe the air pump will kick in when noticing it’s loosing pressure? Am I able to test for parasitic draws on these vehicles?
I have a 08 s550 with a malfunction. The rear passenger is stuck in the air and the ride is so stiff that it's bouncy. The suspension malfunction error code says "fault in component (right rear suspension plunger valve)" someone said it's the front valve block. I'm wondering if that is it. I'mma change it and see if it fixes my problem.
Nice, videos can I ask when disconnecting the air lines did that empty the nitrogen air reservoir tank or lose all air from shocks? Or did you lose minimal air that was just in lines? Any info would be greatly appreciated thank you.
The seats and the suspension are entirely separate air systems, you can disconnect the air line without issue. And it's not nitrogen, just normal atmospheric air :)
Hi thanks for your great video! When you deal with the line, did you just cut the end or replacing the entire line end to end? And did you just pull out from the socket and plug in with a push only? Do you mind sharing more info on that? Thanks
The tip of the line was cracked, so I just cut 1 cm off, clean and flat, then reinstalled it in the fitting. IIRC they were compression fittings that you have to unscrew with a wrench.
After I replaced the strut, I’m getting a “vehicle rising please wait” on the dash. I wait and nothing happens and the car doesn’t rise but i can clear it by pressing ok. It doesn’t come back on unless I turn off the car.. I replaced all the fuses/relays and hear the compressor reservoir kick on. Any ideas?
The struts all have check valves on the top, where the air line connects in. It sounds like the car thinks that check valve is bad? Sounds like you might need a new strut, or perhaps you could buy a new check valve (properly specced) to install between the input air line and the top of your strut.
Hi, I have the opposite problem. Rear shocks are both maxed out. Rear shocks are as high as they can go and don't deflate. Could it be the same block causing the problem? Lines need to bleed.
My friend great video, my cls55 i got new front airstruts, still teh front right creaks over small bumps and feel like it dips slightly more than the left side , when i drive the car about 3 min after starting it will kick on the air compressor for a few sec until it stops then you hear the right creak down, im thikning it has to be a line or the valve block like yours, whats the chance i coudl see the link without removing the entire valve block ty
There might be two issues here. The creaking sounds like your anti roll bar links and bushings are old and the rubber is failing. And if there's a leaky suspension strut, the car should pop up a warning about "Airmatic Defective" or something to that effect.
@@letsdailydriveans5507 thx for responding you didnt have to was a crappy worded comment, but ya my line is prob split at the end and slowly leaking air, the suspension bushing all replaced b y myself aswell, i got this issue and a slowleaking valve cover gasket only 1600miles after rebuilding the engine, this car has a ton of issue u have a good day
After parking GL450 overnight, both front wheels are lowered down. Once starting the car, then air compressor starts then the wheels are up to the normal position again. I can drive the car with no problem. No error or ant warning message at all. Do you think what is an issue here. Can I still keep driving a car without fixing this.
if only one wheel is down, it's usually that strut is leaking. if more than one wheel is down, then usually it's the valve block. cracked hose, as seen in this video, is an unusual finding.
my '06 CLS500 is sagging in the rear, do I need to change both Airsprings (airbags) or just the rear right side as that's the one that goes down first, then the left side goes down after about 30mins ...Thx
It sounds like both need to be changed. There's a spec for how much the springs should deflate and it's something like 10 mm over 24 hours, sounds like yours are losing more air than that. Check the rear level sensor too, the car auto levels itself after you park. A broken level sensor on the rear axle could make the car think it's too high, at which point it would try to relieve the air pressure to lower the rear.
Hi, Nice Job. I wanted to ask my '07 MB S600 rear axle ABC valve?... does it look the same as the one you just replaced on your car or something completely different? Thank you
Joe, are you sick? Never cut the line - you do not understand how is working those types of connectors? Only the rubber ring inside the connector seal the air leaking - the bras slives on one side cut is holding the line preventing to slide out only.
Joe in the first place why you replaced this Air Valve? Do your ground mama told you or your girlfriend? You want to show how handy and smart are you on UA-cam? That valve costs many times more than what you can get from UA-cam for the Video do you know this all?
Why you driving expensive car and you doing repair with your self if you are not mechanic. Same did my friend and most time he spend more money in parts because he think he now how diagnose problem and most time he was wrong . My pro mechanic did this job in 1 hour .
Let's Daily Drive an S550 I couldn’t agree more!!! I have an S550 & GL450 and it’s thanks to videos like this that I’ve saved THOUSANDS and feel 100% when I’m able to fix the MANY issues that arise. GREAT JOB 😉
I understand this is an older video but a fantastic job on the installation of the valve block and the video itself. No obnoxious music and excellent voice over. Great job and thank you!👍🏼
Finally a step by step airmatic repair video...This guy has produced a great diy presentation
As an owner of cl63, I Love this channel and appreciate your hard work to film your maintenance on your Benzo! Keep it up, it encourages mercedes lovers to work on their rides themselves
4:25 "At this point I disconnected the front right line, and you can see the shock move up for some reason". The vertical position of the wheel reflects an equilibrium between pressure in the air bag, and tension in the shock. When you disconnect the air bag, there is no longer pressure in it, so the tension in the shock makes the wheel move up.
Thanks for the nice video, going for it on my 2013 E550 now.
Excellent video, thank you so much! Just wanted to ask you how you got to the conclusion that the issue was with the valve block, and not an air bag or the compressor. Thank you in advance!
Use razor blades to cut those air lines. Also, bevel the edges of your line after your cut so it'll slip into the fitting more easily.
Excellent job. I’m in the same position just bought a CLS 550 thought I saved $4K got it home and 3 days later without driving it , I found it slammed starting with the front left wheel.
any luck finding the cause?
My cls550 did the same thing, i replaced the passenger front airstrut…..now 2 years later both my rears randomly go flat overnight sometimes….if i mess with the buttons and/or play with the wires going to valveblock it will air back up….but i still get a malfunction signal on speedo…tommarow i will replace the valve block
First off, thanks so much for doing this. There’s so few people willing to take on these cars, your channel is an awesome resource.
I’ve got an 07 s550 that is not raising at all. I bought it with a sensor issue and the front was a bit low, but a few weeks later the thing slammed completely and won’t come up. I can get the compressor to run, but it doesn’t seem to be lifting the car at all. Not sure what the best way to check if I got a valve block issue or a compressor issue. As far as a scanner, I have an icarsoft MB II which can only read overall values but can’t check specific systems. Thanks again for all your content.
I think we have the same scanner. Have you scanned the airmatic subsystem and checked for codes? If it's having a problem it should post codes there. Something about "refill time too long" would indicate a leak somewhere in the system. The scanner should also show you level sensor readings (to make sure the level sensors are showing normal outputs) and tank air pressure.
@@letsdailydriveans5507 can you make a video of scanner how it looks, i need to buy it, i have r class 2011, i have same issue i suppose. Thanks for video helped me alot
Tnñ
Beautiful S-Class sir and good job on the valve block replacement
Youuuuuuuu. Are amazing
that’s dope I
Got the E550 valve block issue ! But mine is in the rear next to the compressor ! Good video
I own a W211 E320, the rear bellows come down after a few days when parked, but there is no problem while driving, I hope it is caused by a small hose crack, the test device does not show any malfunction, your video is very useful, I congratulate you, I subscribed to me, I can repair my own vehicle, but I do not have a garage, you are very lucky you are younger than my son but you are doing very well
Thanks for sharing! Best of luck
@@letsdailydriveans5507 I changed the bellows, they were leaking from the gasket of their brain, I have no problem
I have to say. I hope I find a crack where you found one. Thank man really tho thank you. It was hard finding an airline video. I’ve replaced everything myself. This time I felt like it was to soon. I’m going to check that.
Great video at least u show how to take valve block out,I have GL 350 I have to change the valve block, left rear does not respond to go down or up but all others three responding to the scanner, so I think valve block is no good, rear left is too high can not bring it down, Thanks for the video
You know I have a problem with my W211/ E550. 2008 Airmatic left wheel. I replaced the strut already. I thought I'm set! NOT! the Airmatic pump kicked in after starting the engine. Went to the correct ride height! Then turned off. My left front went right back down. I raised it again to double check everything even torch specs. Cleaned all the electrical components connectors. Made sure every one of them clicked on the other connectors. OK I'm set now. It worked. Yeppie! Then I checked all Airmatic settings inside the Car. Worked really great, then I turned my wheel left and the pump came on again? Then straight. Everything is fine. Then turned my steering wheel to the left. The left front side went down again. I pulled the wheel off. Checked everything again including the ride height sensor. Everything was fine. I am waiting for a W211 air compressor valve block hoping it will solve this problem 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with this Airmatic system. Sounds very similar!
Very well done video. I've always feared the repairs on an Airmatic Benz, so we have always bought models that didnt come with it. I think I may expand my collection now to include Airmatic models. :-)
Thanks for the video. I'm guessing your car was sinking consistently no matter where or how it was parked? I think valve body issue is when the car will sink randomly, e.g. sometimes in 10 minutes or other times, will not drop at all, for over a 1 week.
Nice work. Keep it up, I'm sure the tools giving "constructive criticism" will get bored sometime ;) I have the same car too :)
Vidéo très intéressante, merci beaucoup.
Beautiful Benz.
Do you need to have the wheels off the ground to replace the valve block? Due to the pressure, not sure if this is a necessary step
excellent work! I have a 2014 CL550 with 10K miles and the front struts were replaced along with the sensors. I think they didn't need replacing because the car has been in a very acclimate climate. Anyway, that was the previous owners problem. I am having an issue where the front LH side, as soon as I lock the door,the front passenger side drops 1/2', then makes some high frequency noises and drops another 1/2" and later the rear on the same side follows suit. The car stays up in the highest position without any issue. I figure the valve body is defective. Thanks for your video.
It could be normal, the car will self-level when you lock and unlock the doors. If it doesn't look normal, then the front left level sensor could be faulty and telling the car to drop more than it should. You can check the sensor's readings with an advanced scanner, or ask the dealer to check it out.
I have a 2013 S550 and I'm experiencing an issue where the right side keeps sagging. The suspension compressor stopped working, so I replaced it. However, the new compressor still doesn't turn on. I've checked the relays and confirmed there's power. My question is: if the valve block is malfunctioning, could it prevent the compressor from turning on at all, or should the compressor still activate regardless of the valve block's status? Essentially, I want to know if a faulty valve block can stop the compressor from even starting up.
LUCKY THAT JACK DID'NT FAIL !
was the valve block necessary or was the problem just the cracked line?
Good job.
Why did you decide it was the valve block and bought a new one instead of just check the condition of the lines? Btw that random pump next to the airmatic pump is the power steering pump.
Power steering pump! Thanks for clarifying, I always wondered. I bought the valve block because I had done a leak test and no bubbles appeared, so I figured it was the valves.
Dear, please tell me, how did you know the problem was coming from the Airmatic Valve Block?
You are the rock :)
So you changed the valve block, but in the process noticed there was also an issue with the airline. So you fixed the air line and connected it to the new valve block. Was the issue a bad airline? …or the valve block? What did I miss here?
Off topic - I notice you did a hood emblem delete on your car - can you share whether you used a kit or where did you get the flat badge from please ?
do we need to do calibration after the job is complete?
Great content. Thank you!
Just bought another CL a few days ago. The dealership diagnosed the valve block electrical part as defective. $1,895, I said “no thank you”. I love having something to do, so I just ordered a valve block and will be doing the job in a few days. Did you do anything to support the rear or just let it drop?
How has the Arnott unit stood up over time? Would you pay for an OEM unit if you could do it again?
Arnott is still going strong
Scoured the internet trying to find this question. Thank you!
Awesome thanks a lot
Great video! Would this be the same on a 2014 GL 450?
Your original valve block was probably working perfectly. What fixed your problem was repairing the cracked air line.
oh, absolutely, but I'm not about to go through that process again just to swap parts lol
I was gifted an 2002 S500 .. it’s got an issue where over night the rear would be ok the floor .. where should I begin to look at to diagnose the problem?
And also another issue it’s got, is the battery would die within minutes after shutting the vehicle off, maybe the air pump will kick in when noticing it’s loosing pressure?
Am I able to test for parasitic draws on these vehicles?
Should have tested the lines for leaks first right?
thank you for the video,,,, what's your tire size? front and rear?
Thank you 🙏!!!!!!
I have a 08 s550 with a malfunction. The rear passenger is stuck in the air and the ride is so stiff that it's bouncy. The suspension malfunction error code says "fault in component (right rear suspension plunger valve)" someone said it's the front valve block. I'm wondering if that is it. I'mma change it and see if it fixes my problem.
if you have a propane leak you spray water/soap on the hose to find the leak , why dont you do that
The valve block was too hidden away to spray any fluids on it, unfortunately. There's a compressor or pump of some kind blocking it.
Great video!
Was your valve block actually defective or could you have just cut the airline without replacing the block?
I think the valve block was fine, I could have just cut the air line. Learn from my mistake haha
I have the same problem on the right front side I heard air coming out of it so could that be the problem are the air line?
Nice, videos can I ask when disconnecting the air lines did that empty the nitrogen air reservoir tank or lose all air from shocks? Or did you lose minimal air that was just in lines? Any info would be greatly appreciated thank you.
The seats and the suspension are entirely separate air systems, you can disconnect the air line without issue. And it's not nitrogen, just normal atmospheric air :)
Hi thanks for your great video! When you deal with the line, did you just cut the end or replacing the entire line end to end? And did you just pull out from the socket and plug in with a push only? Do you mind sharing more info on that? Thanks
The tip of the line was cracked, so I just cut 1 cm off, clean and flat, then reinstalled it in the fitting. IIRC they were compression fittings that you have to unscrew with a wrench.
@@letsdailydriveans5507 thanks a lot!
My front right is sinking as well with airmatic suspension symbol what should i try first
My VL FL green color line got snap from the solenoid block do you know where is that line connect to?
For what engine ? That must be 4.7 twin turbo?
Nice!
How do you know if the valve block is the problem or the compressor
After I replaced the strut, I’m getting a “vehicle rising please wait” on the dash. I wait and nothing happens and the car doesn’t rise but i can clear it by pressing ok. It doesn’t come back on unless I turn off the car.. I replaced all the fuses/relays and hear the compressor reservoir kick on. Any ideas?
Can you remember the fault codes you had - I've got ' Y36/1y2 left front suspension strut plunger check valve '....
I got a generic "refill time too long", indicating that the pump couldn't fill the air tank up as fast as it should be.
The struts all have check valves on the top, where the air line connects in. It sounds like the car thinks that check valve is bad? Sounds like you might need a new strut, or perhaps you could buy a new check valve (properly specced) to install between the input air line and the top of your strut.
Good job ..
What did you jack on in the front..
I’m driving a GL 320..
There's a rubber block jack point under the subframe there in the middle.
Hi, I have the opposite problem. Rear shocks are both maxed out. Rear shocks are as high as they can go and don't deflate. Could it be the same block causing the problem? Lines need to bleed.
Check the rear level sensor. There is one sensor for the two rear wheels. If it fails the car will max out the height for safety.
My friend great video, my cls55 i got new front airstruts, still teh front right creaks over small bumps and feel like it dips slightly more than the left side , when i drive the car about 3 min after starting it will kick on the air compressor for a few sec until it stops then you hear the right creak down, im thikning it has to be a line or the valve block like yours, whats the chance i coudl see the link without removing the entire valve block ty
There might be two issues here. The creaking sounds like your anti roll bar links and bushings are old and the rubber is failing. And if there's a leaky suspension strut, the car should pop up a warning about "Airmatic Defective" or something to that effect.
@@letsdailydriveans5507 thx for responding you didnt have to was a crappy worded comment, but ya my line is prob split at the end and slowly leaking air, the suspension bushing all replaced b y myself aswell, i got this issue and a slowleaking valve cover gasket only 1600miles after rebuilding the engine, this car has a ton of issue u have a good day
How did you reconnect the airlines to the new block?
You just turn the fitting with a wrench, it should be self-explanatory when you look at it.
After parking GL450 overnight, both front wheels are lowered down. Once starting the car, then air compressor starts then the wheels are up to the normal position again. I can drive the car with no problem. No error or ant warning message at all.
Do you think what is an issue here. Can I still keep driving a car without fixing this.
if only one wheel is down, it's usually that strut is leaking.
if more than one wheel is down, then usually it's the valve block.
cracked hose, as seen in this video, is an unusual finding.
Damn still my car is low looking for a couple of ducks to solve my issue
That’s excellent!! What year is your car?
2011
Repair of valve block or switching valve block with a new one…?
So actually we don't know, if the valve block caused the defect or the tear in the tube...
my '06 CLS500 is sagging in the rear, do I need to change both Airsprings (airbags) or just the rear right side as that's the one that goes down first, then the left side goes down after about 30mins
...Thx
It sounds like both need to be changed. There's a spec for how much the springs should deflate and it's something like 10 mm over 24 hours, sounds like yours are losing more air than that. Check the rear level sensor too, the car auto levels itself after you park. A broken level sensor on the rear axle could make the car think it's too high, at which point it would try to relieve the air pressure to lower the rear.
Hey could u list all the tools and size that you used for this operation i need to do it next week end on mine
Oof, it's too long ago to remember. A set of metric hex sockets is pretty much the only thing you need though.
You didn’t show how to put the airlines into the new block.
you can make driving videos as well
Did u go to dealer for replacement valve block or online?
Online, through FCPEuro
Where do you get information how as What to work on, to do all repairs?
The WIS has some good info, but the best source is definitely the forums, like MBWORLD or BenzWorld. Great community of enthusiasts
I changed the valve block and 4 shocks and still get service airmatic light what could it be?
Bad pump? Scan codes, they'll tell you what was causing the airmatic malfunction message.
Which point did you jack the car from in the front
There's a rubber block in the front, under the engine, that you jack from. Also, use jack stands so you don't kill yourself (I forgot to)
Hi, Nice Job.
I wanted to ask my '07 MB S600 rear axle ABC valve?... does it look the same as the one you just replaced on your car or something completely different? Thank you
It would probably be completely different, unfortunately. ABC uses a hydraulic fluid in place of air. They are 100% different suspension systems.
@@letsdailydriveans5507 Thank you
Joe, are you sick?
Never cut the line - you do not understand how is working those types of connectors?
Only the rubber ring inside the connector seal the air leaking - the bras slives on one side cut is holding the line preventing to slide out only.
It's been fine for about a year now, no other airmatic issues.
What is the part number?
Can a faulty valve block cause lowered wheel?
Probably not, the valve block just controls where air goes. Does it ever raise up? If so, the valve block is probably fine.
Let's Daily Drive an S550 it does raise up, but so does a leaking suspension too.
@@kingarchnyc If one wheel is lowered, then it's probably a leaking air line or a leaking strut.
Let's Daily Drive an S550 I replaced it, still leaked, replace valve block, still leak. I can honestly say I am done with air suspension now.
Joe in the first place why you replaced this Air Valve?
Do your ground mama told you or your girlfriend?
You want to show how handy and smart are you on UA-cam?
That valve costs many times more than what you can get from UA-cam for the Video do you know this all?
Hi
should have checked the airlines first hey !!!! would have saved you a lot of cash.
The easiest thing for you to do is two ways takeoff the front bumper or take out the headlightM You doing way too much
You should have used Jack stands. If that Jack was to fail your brain would’ve been smashed out onto the floor.
Why you driving expensive car and you doing repair with your self if you are not mechanic. Same did my friend and most time he spend more money in parts because he think he now how diagnose problem and most time he was wrong . My pro mechanic did this job in 1 hour .
Because it's fun and gives a sense of satisfaction. Give it a try some time!
Let's Daily Drive an S550 I couldn’t agree more!!! I have an S550 & GL450 and it’s thanks to videos like this that I’ve saved THOUSANDS and feel 100% when I’m able to fix the MANY issues that arise. GREAT JOB 😉
Do you need calibration after changing valve block?