My Husqvarna Yth18542 has this problem it starts but what it does is it turns a little over and then stops for a while and then turns over again and then finally fires up. It's almost 4 years old to and still looks new I don't understand why they make these mowers so cheap built when you get them they were way better back then. I have a 98 Wizard that doesn't have a deck ran a big bult over but it still starts right up and then you conpare a practically new Husqvarna is so crazy lol 😆
@@IndRepair yeah I looked at it it's the valves in the motor that help turn it over when they go up and down they just need to be adjusted so when it gets to where it won't start anymore I'm gonna adjust them back to normal. So it will start like new again I don't understand why these things happen to new mowers they always have so many problems 🤷
They are known design flaws but if you fix them the only one who wins is the consumer and who wants that when a company can have higher profits. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair yep I agree they need to make these mowers better cause my parking break even snapped when I used it after it's first month I had to bend a nail and put that in the hole 🙄
I done plenty different engines at home in the yard and replaced my camshaft on mine like yours 2 months ago it took me 4 hours doing because i didn't know the screws holding the engine onto the front turn out clockwise instead of counterclockwise im lucky i didn't break any On my camshaft the release was still good but each lob was worn down a little i could see it comparing it to the new oem camshaft
Would the engine start if you would have boosted it with a battery charger booster? I have a brand new 1 day old battery but the engine just clicks. When I boost it with an electric charger booster, it starts just fine.
Yes, many times it will start with extra battery or a jump pack. This gives the starter enough to power past the compression stroke. If it can't be turned up top by hand, this is your issue.
Great video I’m wondering if it’s worth having done to my 18 year old John Deere mower? I’m thinking I’ll probably just buy another mower. It’s probably like 800$ or more to have a shop fix right?
If the mower was well taken care of it is probably worth doing. Depending on the model your talking 3 to 4 hours plus parts. Parts are around $100 if your using OEM or less than half that for aftermarket. You should be able to call a local shop with mower/engine model and tell them what you think is going on and see what they estimate it at for the repair. Keep in mind they may get the engine open and realize it was ruined when the camshaft came apart. Thanks for watching!!
Apparently I have the same problem with my mower tractor. Today I had a technician that explained me the same you did on this video. So..... I believe his labor is too much money. How much do you understand is a fair price for this job?. I need to spin the top of the engine to get compression and turn on the unit, once is on, it works great. Thanks
It is a pretty big job, the gasket scraping for the crankcase is the worst and most time consuming part. Depending on the unit 2.5 to 4 hours of whatever the local labor rate is. Parts should be $150 or so...
Depends on the shop but 2-3 hours labor and a camshaft, crankcase gasket and we usually do the PTO seal while we are there. Give or take $350 in most areas
You seem like of the more knowledgeable people on you tube. I have a 21 HP on a Husqvarna zero turn. It turns over about 1 rotation then locks. I have a new battery, voltage is 12.7V. I thought it was compression locked but it does the same even with the spark plug removed and there should be no compression without the plug. I adjusted the valves anyway to .004" and .006", same problem. i watched for the bump on the intake valve and its definitely noticeable. i checked and cleaned all electrical connections including the ground. I removed the starter and clamped it in a vice to bench test it; spins fine. I put it back in and checked the voltage when turning over and it drops from 12.7V to around 6V, not sure if that's a problem. I boosted the battery, same problem, locks up. I removed the belt in case there was drag from the mower clutch, no change. So its not the starter, not an electrical connection and not an over compression issue. Even though the troubleshooting indicates its not the compression release, I'm out of ideas and might have to disassemble just to check unless you can recommend something I missed.
Sounds like weak starter or bad ground to me. Can you turn it over by hand with the plug in? If not there is an issue at the engine. It may be hard to turn with both hands to get past compression stroke but it should always be possible if everything is working correctly. Have you checked the flywheel key to ensure timing is correct?
Being that I'm a machinist I'm gonna take cylinder head off an drill an tap just above carb inlet on engine a compression release from my chainsaw. That should be a lot cheaper.
Don't see any large engines with these kinds of releases but with as much as they fo bad might not be a bad idea. Remember there are quite a few things floating around inside after the compression release comes apart. Thanks for watching!
I flipped my engine all the way upside down so that it was sitting on the flywheel you done yours sideways I done the Kohler the same way let it sit on its flywheel and had to dig out all the governor pieces of it then put that back together in the engine thats all what its problem was the shop charged my friend for that they never took it apart to fix that little problem i did the engine works like new on a normal speed so what i done to it the shop should have done but didn't do
I would remove the plug and see if the carburetor has failed allowing fuel into the cylinder first. Could be simple as that, blown engine or many things in between
So I have a craftsman 46 in cut riding mower that I made the mistake of thinking because it had a hole in the frame in back like for a trailer hitch , I towed some tree trunk pieces from one side of my yard to the other which is about an 1.75 acre. Towed them by one end of the trunk with a rope. Now I started getting this very problem where I'll try to start the mower and it almost sounds like a backfire and it will only turn until it gets to that hard point and then it's like the battery or starter isn't strong enough to start. Can I assume since it does this even with a fully charged battery that this "counterweight" may be the issue? I can't afford to take it into the shop so I'm trying to make sure before I break into the engine that this is indeed the problem. My wife thinks because I put it under undue stress that dragging those trees around maybe broke that counterweight? So just an fyi, this engine in your video looks like my exact engine. Also if I take the plug out, it turns over just fine. It's when there is compression that it has this issue of not starting. I know you're thinking that it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that because this started after the tree dragging that that is what caused this but I'm trying to make sure so I don't open the engine for no reason.
You can take the valve cover off and see if you observe the low speed compression release working when the valves move in and out. This could also be an issue caused by a sheared flywheel key or bent/broken pushrod, opening valve cover will give you more info without getting too deep
@@IndRepair also, is pulling those logs around undue stress for that lawn mower? Or is this maybe something that just happened and probably would not happen again?
Hi, so I pulled the valve cover off, took the spark plug out so it would be easier to turn the engine by hand while I watch the valves go in and out. So it's the bottom valve I assume you're talking about I should see a little dip when it comes back out correct? I'm not seeing that dip, and I've turned the engine a few times and wash that lower valve and I don't see any dip whatsoever so can I assume that means that the counterweight has broken off? And if that is what it means how hard is that counterweight to replace? Is it a matter of just pulling that shaft out and popping the counterweight off and putting the new one on? Also one other thing that I'm not sure is even worth mentioning but as that valve is going in right before it starts coming back out again is where that hard point is.
It is not an easy job and can ruin the engine pretty easily if not done right but I'm sure if your mechanical you can figure it out. Remove engine, pop sump off, remove push rods, install cam, scrape and install gaskets
@@IndRepair doesn't sound too hard but it's all the torque values and not knowing them that makes it hard. This lawnmower ran out of warranty a few days ago and then this happened and craftsman and Briggs and Stratton pretty much told me to go fk myself!!!!!I expect that from craftsman but I thought Briggs and Stratton was better than that, anyway thanks alot for the info!!!!!
I would double check connections at ground, battery and solenoid. It could be a bad starter but normally don't see clicking with this issue. What size battery was put in?
Excellent diagnostics - You're indeed a Master Mechanic!
Thank you for watching and for your kind words we appreciate it!
Very useful information. I can now estimate the parts and labour if I get this issue at work. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Great video 👏👏👏.
I’m guessing the is the problem with my 2 cylinder brigs and Stratton.
It is a common problem for sure!
My Husqvarna Yth18542 has this problem it starts but what it does is it turns a little over and then stops for a while and then turns over again and then finally fires up. It's almost 4 years old to and still looks new I don't understand why they make these mowers so cheap built when you get them they were way better back then. I have a 98 Wizard that doesn't have a deck ran a big bult over but it still starts right up and then you conpare a practically new Husqvarna is so crazy lol 😆
It sounds a lot like this issue! Have you went over the steps to diagnose it?
@@IndRepair yeah I looked at it it's the valves in the motor that help turn it over when they go up and down they just need to be adjusted so when it gets to where it won't start anymore I'm gonna adjust them back to normal. So it will start like new again I don't understand why these things happen to new mowers they always have so many problems 🤷
They are known design flaws but if you fix them the only one who wins is the consumer and who wants that when a company can have higher profits. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair yep I agree they need to make these mowers better cause my parking break even snapped when I used it after it's first month I had to bend a nail and put that in the hole 🙄
I done plenty different engines at home in the yard and replaced my camshaft on mine like yours 2 months ago it took me 4 hours doing because i didn't know the screws holding the engine onto the front turn out clockwise instead of counterclockwise im lucky i didn't break any
On my camshaft the release was still good but each lob was worn down a little i could see it comparing it to the new oem camshaft
Definitely happens a lot!
Nice explanation !!!
Thank you!
Would the engine start if you would have boosted it with a battery charger booster? I have a brand new 1 day old battery but the engine just clicks. When I boost it with an electric charger booster, it starts just fine.
Yes, many times it will start with extra battery or a jump pack. This gives the starter enough to power past the compression stroke. If it can't be turned up top by hand, this is your issue.
Great video I’m wondering if it’s worth having done to my 18 year old John Deere mower? I’m thinking I’ll probably just buy another mower. It’s probably like 800$ or more to have a shop fix right?
If the mower was well taken care of it is probably worth doing. Depending on the model your talking 3 to 4 hours plus parts. Parts are around $100 if your using OEM or less than half that for aftermarket. You should be able to call a local shop with mower/engine model and tell them what you think is going on and see what they estimate it at for the repair. Keep in mind they may get the engine open and realize it was ruined when the camshaft came apart. Thanks for watching!!
Thanks so very much.
AWSOME
Thanks for watching!!
It’s really easy for me to feel it with my finger, but each his own
It’s a every week thing now but cheaper than a 4/5 grand new mower
Sure is!!
It’s great having Tom Hanks narrate this.😂😂
Ha!
Apparently I have the same problem with my mower tractor. Today I had a technician that explained me the same you did on this video. So..... I believe his labor is too much money. How much do you understand is a fair price for this job?. I need to spin the top of the engine to get compression and turn on the unit, once is on, it works great. Thanks
It is a pretty big job, the gasket scraping for the crankcase is the worst and most time consuming part. Depending on the unit 2.5 to 4 hours of whatever the local labor rate is. Parts should be $150 or so...
Do you have any idea if Briggs has improved this part or the system?
They have not. Same cam in every new intek ohv engine that I have ever seen
Thks for the information about how much does this cost
Depends on the shop but 2-3 hours labor and a camshaft, crankcase gasket and we usually do the PTO seal while we are there. Give or take $350 in most areas
@@IndRepair thks for the reply
You seem like of the more knowledgeable people on you tube. I have a 21 HP on a Husqvarna zero turn. It turns over about 1 rotation then locks. I have a new battery, voltage is 12.7V. I thought it was compression locked but it does the same even with the spark plug removed and there should be no compression without the plug. I adjusted the valves anyway to .004" and .006", same problem. i watched for the bump on the intake valve and its definitely noticeable. i checked and cleaned all electrical connections including the ground. I removed the starter and clamped it in a vice to bench test it; spins fine. I put it back in and checked the voltage when turning over and it drops from 12.7V to around 6V, not sure if that's a problem. I boosted the battery, same problem, locks up. I removed the belt in case there was drag from the mower clutch, no change. So its not the starter, not an electrical connection and not an over compression issue. Even though the troubleshooting indicates its not the compression release, I'm out of ideas and might have to disassemble just to check unless you can recommend something I missed.
Sounds like weak starter or bad ground to me. Can you turn it over by hand with the plug in? If not there is an issue at the engine. It may be hard to turn with both hands to get past compression stroke but it should always be possible if everything is working correctly. Have you checked the flywheel key to ensure timing is correct?
Thanks for sharing this was a great video u just got a new subscriber 🙏🏽🙏🏽👋🏽👋🏽💪🏾💪🏾✌🏾✌🏾
Thanks for watching!
Being that I'm a machinist I'm gonna take cylinder head off an drill an tap just above carb inlet on engine a compression release from my chainsaw. That should be a lot cheaper.
Don't see any large engines with these kinds of releases but with as much as they fo bad might not be a bad idea. Remember there are quite a few things floating around inside after the compression release comes apart. Thanks for watching!
Clean out the sump first or rod may hit it thru the case
I flipped my engine all the way upside down so that it was sitting on the flywheel you done yours sideways
I done the Kohler the same way let it sit on its flywheel and had to dig out all the governor pieces of it then put that back together in the engine thats all what its problem was the shop charged my friend for that they never took it apart to fix that little problem i did the engine works like new on a normal speed so what i done to it the shop should have done but didn't do
Awesome job!
what if it won't spin at all?
I would remove the plug and see if the carburetor has failed allowing fuel into the cylinder first. Could be simple as that, blown engine or many things in between
GOOD STUFF !!!
Yes sir
Awesome video
Thank you Cliff! Appreciate you watching!
B/s big plastic mice house cover is a hiding place for rats also. Remove and clean often
Yeah they love to build them, see it about 100 times a year!!
fix and test
Just diagnosis on this one
Those new aftermarket are more poison than the original crap!.
Same weight and markings. You couldn't pick out one from the other. It's all junk why pay a premium price for it?
Cheap B/S cam shaft
Isn't it crazy?
So I have a craftsman 46 in cut riding mower that I made the mistake of thinking because it had a hole in the frame in back like for a trailer hitch , I towed some tree trunk pieces from one side of my yard to the other which is about an 1.75 acre. Towed them by one end of the trunk with a rope. Now I started getting this very problem where I'll try to start the mower and it almost sounds like a backfire and it will only turn until it gets to that hard point and then it's like the battery or starter isn't strong enough to start. Can I assume since it does this even with a fully charged battery that this "counterweight" may be the issue? I can't afford to take it into the shop so I'm trying to make sure before I break into the engine that this is indeed the problem. My wife thinks because I put it under undue stress that dragging those trees around maybe broke that counterweight? So just an fyi, this engine in your video looks like my exact engine. Also if I take the plug out, it turns over just fine. It's when there is compression that it has this issue of not starting. I know you're thinking that it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that because this started after the tree dragging that that is what caused this but I'm trying to make sure so I don't open the engine for no reason.
You can take the valve cover off and see if you observe the low speed compression release working when the valves move in and out. This could also be an issue caused by a sheared flywheel key or bent/broken pushrod, opening valve cover will give you more info without getting too deep
@@IndRepair ok, not to sound like I didn't understand what you just said, when I take the valve cover off what am I looking for and what does it mean.
@@IndRepair also, is pulling those logs around undue stress for that lawn mower? Or is this maybe something that just happened and probably would not happen again?
Right at 3:20 mark your looking for the dip back in of the valve (low speed compression release) or a bent push rod
If you don't see the dip, your camshaft is bad
Hi, so I pulled the valve cover off, took the spark plug out so it would be easier to turn the engine by hand while I watch the valves go in and out. So it's the bottom valve I assume you're talking about I should see a little dip when it comes back out correct? I'm not seeing that dip, and I've turned the engine a few times and wash that lower valve and I don't see any dip whatsoever so can I assume that means that the counterweight has broken off? And if that is what it means how hard is that counterweight to replace? Is it a matter of just pulling that shaft out and popping the counterweight off and putting the new one on? Also one other thing that I'm not sure is even worth mentioning but as that valve is going in right before it starts coming back out again is where that hard point is.
Yes, the camshaft will need replaced at this point if not seeing that dip back and everything else looks good.
It is not an easy job and can ruin the engine pretty easily if not done right but I'm sure if your mechanical you can figure it out. Remove engine, pop sump off, remove push rods, install cam, scrape and install gaskets
@@IndRepair WOW, so the whole camshaft is bad not just the counterweight? So you can't just buy the counterweight?
Correct, have to buy the camshaft whole as a unit
@@IndRepair doesn't sound too hard but it's all the torque values and not knowing them that makes it hard. This lawnmower ran out of warranty a few days ago and then this happened and craftsman and Briggs and Stratton pretty much told me to go fk myself!!!!!I expect that from craftsman but I thought Briggs and Stratton was better than that, anyway thanks alot for the info!!!!!
What if I put in a new solenoid, starter, and a new battery and it just clicks a lot?
I would double check connections at ground, battery and solenoid. It could be a bad starter but normally don't see clicking with this issue. What size battery was put in?
@@IndRepair a diehard silver U1-1
Definitely! We use the u1-3 Die hard
@@IndRepair that could be the issue?
Definitely
Vramkgear.striped.
Crankshaft.strip.
Low speed compression release on the camshaft flew apart like normal