I NEVER comment on YT videos, so that should show you how helpful this was. Thank you so much for this. Saved me from going insane, I'd done exactly what you said, threw a new solenoid on, new battery, checked all the grounds, nothing. Adjusted the valves and fires up every time. Thanks again!
Same half crank problem on a 24HP twin I just bought used with a good battery. Had ordered a starter and saw your video. Previous owner had two of the valves set over .020. You are a life saver! Thanks!
my husqvarna is only 2 years old and was having the same problem and was very close to getting rid of it. i did some research and found this video and did what he said to do. now it starts every time i turn the key. thank you sir for sharing your knowledge 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
This video popped up and it's EXACTLY what my mower has been doing for 2 years. I replaced battery 2 times, keep it on tender and seems to help but still happens occasionally. Thanks soooooo much for this video. It seems like common sense but never considered it.
This might be ab older video but I have searched for about an hour using different keywords before I actually came across this video that I am actually able to fix my unit. Thanks for the details and the why not what shortcuts to take to get it running again!!!!!!!!
I did the same! Had this problem out of the blue today. Thought it was the battery as it was old, but new battery, same issue. I usually troubleshoot things myself, but didn't begin to know how to troubleshoot this. Was it electrical? Starter? I had no idea what to search for. Ended up using "starter catches" I think and this was the first video that came up and exactly described my issue! Will adjust valves tomorrow and hopefully my ancient mower will be good as new! Thanks @IndRepair
This is the exact problem I've been having on my Scag Liberty Z (Kohler KT725), and it's been driving me NUTS. Battery, starter, and ignition were already replaced. Wish I had found you first, but oh well. At least now I know how to fix it! THANK YOU!!!
The new carb made it run smoother and the new battery helped since the old one really needed replacement, but the valve adjustment got rid of the hard to turn over and now she runs better than when I got it. Thanks so much I had watched another valve adjustment video and did not get the results as when I followed your example. Maybe I did something wrong the first time but this time I did the TDC and it worked great the first time. Thanks for making a really nice video.
While martin did not say it, the customer had gone to another shop first and they were incompetent at the diagnosis and repair. Out of desperation they then brought the machine to Individualized repair. It's why I think individualized repair is one of the very best small engine lawnmower repair shops out there. He's one of the very tops in his field and a true professional, as he consistently correctly diagnosis and repairs these machines. As Taryl Dactyl says, "It's not the space shuttle, it's just a lawn mower." It also reminds me of the acronym KISS - keep it simple stupid. And if you watch enough of these lawnmower repair videos from the best UA-cam offers, then one concludes there is a common trend. What is it? First look for the simple things that usually fail, exactly as individualized repair does consistently. Thanks for yet another highly informative and great video, Martin. But I have to confess, I don't think much of these "breaks and scrapem" intech engines at all. Bring back the old briggs and stratton flatheads!!! 👍👍👍
Hello Sir! Thank you very much for this video and all you do to help us to make the necessary repairs needed for our equipment. I was just given a Yard Machine 638rl and I'm having the same problem, but it also backfires during startup. The thing is when I first got it on the 6th of this month, it started up just fine. And then on the 8th it started up just fine as I cut my yard with it. But after my break, when I attempted to fire it back up, it backfired and then started. I then parked it and didn't mess with it again until yesterday the 13th. And that's when I realized that it was dragging as if the battery was dying. I kept on trying and it finally backfired and started up. But when I shut it off and tried it again, I couldn't get it to start again until I put the battery charger on it, and that's when it backfired and started up again. Could that also be a problem with the valves?
@@tonydalton8712 I would like to thank you for your response, but it was caused by the o-rings going bad in my Nikki carburetor, which allowed fuel to fill up my crankcase. But once i rebuilt the carburetor and drained the crankcase, that took care of the problem.
Thank you this is exact issue I was having and it fixed the problem. It really seems like a battery or starter problem but its not. Never thought of checking the valves.
Same with my single cylinder B/S engine. Intake was so loose the engine would no longer start. After setting the valves the engine started first time. Now for an open question... my engine will not idle, runs very fast even with me holding the throttle against the idle screw. When I engage the blade it does slow down some, but no idle. Help - suggestions
@@larryjohns8823 vacuum leak. O-ring(or gasket) at cylinder head, carb-intake, or recently I've found one to leak through the throttle shaft of the carb.
My cub cadet has been doing this for months. I just try to start it a few times and it finally takes off. I tell myself that I will fix it later (aka check starter, solenoid, etc) but end up procrastinating and then forgetting about it until its time to mow again, so then I just try it a few times until it takes. Now I found this video and the fix. The one time in my life that procrastination paid off. lol
Got a YTH18542 which is a single cyl Intek doing exactly that. I'll go set the valves and I bet it runs. Only a year and 1/2 old and got it for $200 because it wouldn't run. I bet I'll have a practically new mower in a few mins. This is the first OHV mower engine I've ever worked on. I'm used to the old stuff. You're a great help. Now that I've seen it it's almost exactly like working on an old VW engine. The same valve settings too.
@@IndRepair Ended up being the compression release on the cam. One of those 18.5 Intek starting with 33. So I replaced the cam. All is well now. Looked at the motor on my older one and it's a 33 series 18.5 as well. So I ordered a cam for when it inevitably does the same thing.
@@IndRepair Still not bad. For a total of $300 and about 2 hours of work. I got a mower that's only 1.5 years old. Still had the little nubs on the tires. And yes I bought OEM vs. going the cheaper route.
had to adj my choke cable,and magneto air gaps,on mine,was hard starting,thanks for video,i havnt had the decompress give me trouble,i did adj valves awhile ago,starts easy now finally
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I've had this problem for quite a while and this has fixed it. Keep up the good work and keep those videos coming!
@@IndRepair had 2 craftsman mowers do that, the 1st was a green one that was shaped like a bug... mom kept having me put batteries in they always go dead and wouldn't start.. the next one like the one in the video started doing the same thing after 2 or 3 months and I put a motorcycle battery in with WAY more amp hours then it needed... the 2nd time I went to mow it was dead. I wore out the green one starting it with a jump box over the years so I took the battery out of the red one and got a nice little jump box... it spins it really really fast and starts everytime w no battery and hump box. I don't think its a valve ajustment
You the Man !!! There’s one season on my new Briggs+Stratton engine and it has this exact problem . I would have thought that the battery was dropping charge etc ,etc and eventually it would have driven me crazy enough to shot it with a 12 bore😵💫. Thanks to you for making the video, and thank God for UA-cam for useful content, instead of the goofy attention seekers falling off stuff. Out. 🎤
Thanks. Until I saw this video of yours, I watched a bunch of single cylinder videos where they say the cam shaft was broken because there was no "bump" in the valve movement during rotation. On the twin cyclinder models, I guess there is no bump, and tomorrow I am going to do exactly this -remove each spark plug independently and test if one allows starter to turn over, and see if one side is the culprit then go set valve gap. Thanks and I hope this solves it.
I have been having this issue for a while now on my Craftsman (same as your Husqvarna) I had recently replaced the solenoid as the old one did look aged and had poor resistance. (with an EV 250 Amp unit that I had ) seemed to improve things, but suspect it was coincidental. Spotted your vid and as I hadn't done a tappet adjustment yet did indeed find one side had excessive lash. Did a, by sight and feel adjustment on both cylinders (my feeler gauges are at work). Couldn't believe how different it was after (42 years as mechanic, but not on small engines for the last 38) Thanks for the tips.👍 Tagged your video on one of mine where I had asked if anyone knew what it was.
Great video TY. I have 450 hours on mine. I run full synthetic on my 22V endurance 5-30w from 300 hours. Big diff on starting and motor runs much smoother as well. On my 3rd battery outside storage only dead of winter with a tarp. 2012 New purchase. All original except blade spindles,
Have suggestion, the spindle bearings can be replaced. Usually much cheaper than the entire spindle. They usually use a 6203 Bearing, take the spindle shaft out, and drive the bearings out, and drive the new bearings in, grease put back together ready to use again.
They sure can be! Problem is that many times they get s5uck on the shaft and have to be cut or heated up to be removed which is a lot of time. For an individual with some extra time on their hands may make sense but spindles are pretty cheap anymore!
Thanks so much man. I'm having the same issue with my mower and I have the exact same mower as that one and I'm having issues with it not starting and the starter is hitting the flywheel but it won't turn over or start and the fanwheel/flywheel is very tight. So I will be checking this tomorrow morning when I get up and hopefully fix it because it's a very nice mower and I only paid $250 for it so I definitely got a deal on it and if I can get it fixed with just adjusting the valve spacing, I will be very happy.
Excellent video. I'm doing a repair for this same issue, on the same engine right now and I did not think of determining whether the problem was isolated to one cylinder or the other. You've possibly saved me quite a bit of effort before I go down the camshaft compression release rabbit hole. Thank you very much for demonstrating this idea. EDIT: I adjusted the valves to .006 intake and .008 exhaust as you stated in the video and no improvement. I checked the B&S site for the clearance specs for the 400000 series Intek and they specify .004 - .006 for both intake and exhaust. I re-adjusted the valves to .004 intake and a loose .004 exhaust and it's cranking like a champ every time now. Just wanted to let you know and again thank you for saving me a lot of unnecessary work.
I’ve learned my about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.
Good video pointing out that it's better to spend more time diagnosing and less time changing parts! One thing I'd mention - it's not just TDC, but TDC on the compression stroke (so you can be sure the valves are closed.) Or alternatively, you can turn the engine until the valve you're NOT adjusting on is open, which means the valve you're adjusting on will be closed. James Condon (the "generator guy") was the first person I saw on YT to point out this shortcut.
We do this adjustment the same way on our video at ua-cam.com/video/ZdcBFuwoH4I/v-deo.htmlsi=OA5O2c9eoovpliPg with a similar issue. If you are at top dead center and the intake valve (top valve) is still not fully closed, you know you are not on the compression stroke on these engines. I should have mentioned that! Good tip!
They have an auto decompressor on the exhaust cam. When the valve clearance gets too loose they dont decompress enough. Similar to a lot of 4 stroke single cylinder motorcycles also.
The Briggs twin has the valve "kicker" machined onto the cam lobe...that's why valve clearance is so critical. The inherent problem with the Briggs singles is a mechanical device that breaks and ends up in the bottom of the crankcase, this that cam must be replaced. Also, if you're not sure how to feel the slight drag on a feeler gauge, try the go/no go method. Try the correct thickness, then try a deeper gauge .002 thicker...the correct one should slide between the parts easily with little drag and the thicker one should not.
Thanks, I've been fighting this issue all summer. Not a fan of the briggs intek, it is a mower that I threw together from an old JD lx series and the engine from a snapper lt series. After replacing the carb and starter and buying both mowers it is still cheaper than buying a new pto clutch for my JD 318 (23 hp kohler command repower)....i have probably half the price invested in this thrown together mower. Wish I had looked into this months ago, it would of saved some frustration
thats excellent how you diagnosed the problem well done that really helps i have an engine that i think thats has the same problem will check it now tha ti know what to do
Now that I went down the rabbit hole of changing all starting components and getting nowhere, and finding out that the first thing to do is a simple valve adjustment is 99% effective, this is now my starting point on all small engines, wish I'd known sooner!!! Just start with it cause you know they're in need of it anyway
It’s hard to turn buy hand it spins easy hits a hard spot and then I gota give it good effort and then it gets easy , I saw difference once u fixed it so I think this my issue as well it struggles to start even direct jump but I guess I’ll find out tmrw when I check Val clearance thank u 🙏 this really helped give me a idea of what’ I think is happening
Awesome information, I have a Husky YTH18642, 42in Deck, doing the same exact thing, just did the plugs and all maintenance like 8 months ago, went to fire it up the other day and it’s did not want to fire it up, what I found it’s very hard one one side of the compression stoke by hand, I can get it to turn but takes some good strength, should i Inspect the Valves first? Or try a starter possibly weak? And if Inspect the valves do I have to drain all the oil first? Thanks so much for sharing all this.
Great video. I was hoping I found my answer. I am having the same problem where the engine won't turn with the spark plug in but will with it out. I adjusted the valves and it still does the same thing. Is there something else? Thanks
Thanks, I should have listened to myself before I bought a starter and battery. Battery was old so that got me started chasing a potential electrical issue. I should have known the valve was this issue when I couldn't turn the motor easily.
I've got new battery and solenoid but now it won't even try to turn over so I'm hoping this helps.. prob gonna order a starter if all my wiring looks good..
We are making sure the piston is going up/down. When you adjust the valves the piston should be 1/4" past top dead center. This means you watch the piston come all the way to the top with the screwdriver and make a mark (TDC). You then make another mark 1/4" up the screwdriver. When you continue to turn the engine and the second mark gets to the top of the spark plug hole, you are 1/4" past TDC.
Been dealing with this for years! Thank you! Would you explain how you were finding TDC? Thanks for dealing with all the armchair experts to put out great information. It really helps.
Yeah I love to help! I do tend to misspeak about what I am doing or what something is called sometimes which never helps! You can find TDC by inserting something in the spark plug hole and rotating the engine clockwise from the flywheel end until the piston reaches its furthest point up. Most engines call for adjusting the valves at 1/4" past TDC so you would want to mark the furthest point up on whatever you are using in the spark plug hole (pencil, screwdriver, etc.) and let the piston go back in by 1/4" (still turning clockwise flywheel end) before setting the clearance. Hopefully this is what you need! Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepairI put a new FX730V on my Hustler and ever since I put it in, even with a new crate motor and new battery I’ve had to put a jump pack on the battery to get it fired up. It fires right up every time with the jump pack. I recall reading in the Kawi manual they called for a 400cca battery which all the U2 size for mowers are less than by 100-50 cca. Since then I’ve paid attention to other brands that use that motor and none of them have a battery rated that high. Is it possible my motor just needs valve lash checked in order to get the battery alone to fire it off? It’s done it from day 1 - brand new motor. Thanks!
@@wisdomspitter7688 It takes a pretty stout battery to turn. If it is brand new I would tend to think the battery may be the issue. We do see some problems with smaller CCA batteries on these engine. We use 350CCA u1-3 batteries for most things. Check the connections and ground wire to ensure everything is 100% tight also could just have a bad connection somewhere causing this to happen. Thanks for watching!
does this particular engine have a compression release on the cam? I'm working on a 24 hp like this and I have the engine apart and there is nothing on the camshaft as far as a compression release.
as a note = trying to do a compression test on these by just cranking will give a false reading. on v-twins you can run one cylinder while checking the other. a better test is a cylinder leak test but this needs to be done with the cylinder around 40 degrees after tdc on the power stroke.
Question. I have a Troy built mower. Only one spark plug on mine though, but the same issue. I can removed the spark plug and turn over easily to relieve the compression. So can you tell me how to make sure mine is too center to try adjusting the valves on mine?
If this is on the Briggs intek engine you may have an issue with the same problem but many times it takes a camshaft replacement instead of just an adjustment. Your gets adjusted at 1/4" past top dead center just like this one but I would check to make sure the release is working in the first place. Watch our video on checking it at ua-cam.com/video/CaJ-EoUTtuE/v-deo.html
Yes I did fail to mention checking the rocker pivot bolts! I see this issue with valve spacing after about 400 hours very often but very rarely see the rocker pivot back out slightly. Normally they are stripped out and spacing is off by 1/4" or more or there is a bent push rod and is very obvious. Thanks for pointing this out!
That's what happen to me, I kept adjusting the valves and it would run for about five minutes backfire them quit and wouldn't start. After about the third time (and a few bent push rods later) I noticed the rocker pivot bolt Was almost falling out! Used some blue lock tight on it and it fix it.
I was following you until you were working on the valves. I haven't worked on valves, so I'm not sure what you were using to calibrate the spacing. It kind of looked like pieces of sandpaper, but I know that's not what they are. What "tools" were you using for the spacing? Great video...I think you may be the answer to prayers. I've replaced a lot of parts up til now. Edit: I found the spacing tool on Amazon.
Question: my Briggs 18 will start and run sometimes but starter barely turn the engine over most of the time. I adjusted the valves for your discussion, but I still have the same problem. Any other ideas? Will a starter do this? I thought a starter would either spin or not spin does it lose umph sometimes? Battery is fine. Thanks, Chris.
Loose connections at the, battery, relay or starter can cause it as well. I found the valves clearance on my B&S was quite critical. It didn't have to be much oversize for the decompressor not to work. Had to check and readjust a few times because it sometimes changed when locking it off. I have heard its possible the decompressor cam to fail. Apparently when this happens you need a new cam shaft but they say its not difficult to replace. I've never done it myself.
Jump the battery with your car battery. If it solves the problem, check the water level in the battery and put it on a charger or bring it to be load tested and charged. If there is no change jump the negative battery terminal to a bare metal bolt or to the outer casing of the starter and try to start. If that fixes it the problem is a bad engine ground. If not, keep the negative jumper cable in place and connect the other one to the positive battery terminal and touch it to the battery cable terminal at the bottom of the starter. If that works clean and check all the cable connections on the battery, relay, starter and ground. If not, replace the starter.
@@ColinWatters Not really difficult to do but takes a lot of time because of getting the old gasket material off. These really do have a lot of issues with the cam and once the cam gets worn down some (so does the decompression pin on the cam) they are even more of a pain. Thanks for watching!
Same symptoms I have on my 20 HP Kohler courage.single cylinder. OK, I'm a decent mechanic so I think I know how to do this. Never had a problem w/with setting valves before, but for some reason I get to TDC on comp stroke, set both valves correctly, check them again, and still I get the engine locking up when I try to start it. It WILL start fine if the engine wasn't right at the comp stroke, but when I try to start it and the engine is almost to TDC it will only turn a tiny bit and stop. I have to manually rotate the fly wheel, then it will start since it's now past the comp stage. I know what you're thinking... I don't have the valves adjusted correctly, but they are. this is very frustrating... any ideas? Some people say to turn the engine about a quarter turn past TDC, then set the valves. thoughts??? THANKS!!
I had similar symptoms a few years back with my 27hp Kohler on my kubota zero turn mower. Rotate some and then bind. In that case it was the starter shaft had actually bent. I had to move the mower in the barn and temps were down in lower 40's and it bent while trying to start it. Apparently not uncommon. The replacement starter supposedly had a harder shaft and also came with a gear that was 1 tooth less so that it had more torque to turn the engine over. No problems since.
I have only see it a couple times but when I did see it the valve spacing was an issue once and the wrong starter was the problem the other time. Thanks for watching and for your information!
Hi, I’m having the same issues on a kohler 19 hp courage, on a Cub cadet 1042, where the starter will lock up trying to turn it over when cold. When hot it works fine, good battery, what did u say the clearance are for the intake and exhaust were? Just about to replace the starter but thought I would check that first. Unit has 356 hours on it and never been touched.
We are looking for top dead center of the compression stroke. If you hold you finger over the plug hole when you start to get some compression as the piston comes up you know that is the compression stroke. On the exhaust stroke this compression will not occur. Go 1/4" past the TDC position (1/4" past piston all the way up) Adjust the valves and reassembly
Hello! Thanks for watching! Some of the talking is done while walking away from or facing away from the camera. This may be when you are speaking about? Something to improve upon for sure! This was shot using a GoPro Hero 11
Omg another video exact same symptoms exact Breaks n Scrapem engine so clear somebody makes tractor and puts Deere Husquvarna TroyBilt colors and logo likely others. As Deere owner I got a heartwarming love note about where it was (assembled) after shipped in from Mexico. What a f’n racket
Has anyone tried an "additive" (gas treatment/fuel injector/carb internal additive to tank) but not the kind you clean carbs)? I've used a gas treatment added to my vans gas tanks on a regular basis to keep the injector/carb clean from trash during operation.I was just wondering if there's something (not necessarily a "storage additive for winter months to keep moisure, gummy varnish out). Thanks guys!!!
There are a lot of people who use these additives and they really do not do a lot for keeping the fuel good. Many of them will help with the rubber of the carburetor or fuel system but do little else
I agree with that statement. Most additives do not work to prevent gumming or phase separation. They claim this, but do not work like they should. There are quite a few videos that test the usefulness of these products in fuel over a time period and they fail every time. The only thing we have found that does much of anything is 2-Butoxyethanol and it just reduces the surface tension between the fuel and ethanol/methanol/moisture to prevent or reverse phase separation and fuel degradation
Wouldn't it be nice if my yt "H" 18542 riding mower had it so easy with a simple rubber boot that snaps onto the spark plug tip?? Instead, mine uses a metal/tin "arrestor" that snaps onto the tip. The issue is that I couldn't get it off after it's 1st 3 yrs on there. Because of trying to pull it out, the tip of the plug broke. Of course, I was trying to replace the plug, but to make matters worse, the frickin' spark plug wire of the coil that attaches to this metal 'n rubber part broke out of its housing. Now, I'll have to buy a new coil and spark plug wire. I put the "arrestor part" back over the tip of the plug, but it doesn't snap over the tip like rubber boots do. I'm stumped having worked on autos, lawn equipment and now the tractor for the first time. Suggestions on getting the part back on the plug after my new "arrestor" and coil arrives?
Another major problem in the design is getting to a bolt at the rear off and on. Trying to fit the hand, wrench back there and align the bolt into both the hole and the hole of the plastic anchor of the oil filler tube into the engine was a real b____. The second was attempting to get the headlamp harness off to put the hood aside. No matter how hard I pulled, it wouldn't slide out and I was afraid to hear my arm/hand yanking it away.
@@IndRepair Pain? It took me about 2 hours to line up the bolt through the cover into the oil reservoir tube and into the engine from behind the engine with 2 fingers. A real flaw in design when the cover screw holes should have been more to the sides.
I have the same problem, I did everything like you and still one cylinder blocks the start sequence. Is it the camshaft ? One cylinder works and the other doesn't? There is only one compression release on the camshaft ?
Without the compression relief you are probably talking about a push rod broken/bent, valve stuck or timing off. The same electrical principles will apply
@@armyvet4081 I agree 100% we used to work on grain bin dryers in extremely remote areas if you couldn't fix it then and there with what you had a bin full of grain could go bad
So I'm back here again after 8 months, last time I commented I checked the valve clearances and everything looked good, but now it's to the point I have to turn the top by hand while cranking to get it to catch. I've seen a couple videos where theres a compression release doohickey that breaks off the camshaft sometimes but I've only seen single cylinder motors, do the Vtwins have that on there as well?
I would definitely check the starting system and all connections before jumping to a valve issue. Does the engine turn freely by hand from the top or is it difficult?
@@IndRepair 12 year old Husky…12,7 of up to 14…running. Charging system original 3 or 4 battery over 12 years stored outside tarp. Every year this time battery low to dead. Charge it up fine. Bizzare.
@@skiprope536 Check out the charging system. Yours may be different but same basic design on all of them ua-cam.com/video/Ll7pJBOOMTE/v-deo.htmlsi=8Awx5GRHi8AByMs6
I got a Briggs and stratin 17.5 hp I bought a new battery new starter and new starter solenoid adjust the valves to spec just like you did in video and mine still won’t spin what else could it be ?
Make sure the bolt holding the rocker arm pivot piece has not backed out. Most of these are set correctly at .005"
Wiring magneto craftsman riding lawn mower
Thank you investigating a Briggs V twin this afternoon with this exact issue 🤞
@@philipnorthfield Awesome! Good luck, I think you will find the issue and have it fixed in no time!
Thanks, I need to check this out on an engine.
I NEVER comment on YT videos, so that should show you how helpful this was. Thank you so much for this. Saved me from going insane, I'd done exactly what you said, threw a new solenoid on, new battery, checked all the grounds, nothing. Adjusted the valves and fires up every time. Thanks again!
Go glad to help! Great job getting it done!! Thanks for watching!!!
Same half crank problem on a 24HP twin I just bought used with a good battery. Had ordered a starter and saw your video. Previous owner had two of the valves set over .020. You are a life saver! Thanks!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!!
my husqvarna is only 2 years old and was having the same problem and was very close to getting rid of it. i did some research and found this video and did what he said to do. now it starts every time i turn the key. thank you sir for sharing your knowledge 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Awesome job! Glad to help! Thanks for watching!!
This video popped up and it's EXACTLY what my mower has been doing for 2 years. I replaced battery 2 times, keep it on tender and seems to help but still happens occasionally. Thanks soooooo much for this video. It seems like common sense but never considered it.
Awesome news! Glad it helped!
This might be ab older video but I have searched for about an hour using different keywords before I actually came across this video that I am actually able to fix my unit. Thanks for the details and the why not what shortcuts to take to get it running again!!!!!!!!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I did the same! Had this problem out of the blue today. Thought it was the battery as it was old, but new battery, same issue. I usually troubleshoot things myself, but didn't begin to know how to troubleshoot this. Was it electrical? Starter? I had no idea what to search for. Ended up using "starter catches" I think and this was the first video that came up and exactly described my issue! Will adjust valves tomorrow and hopefully my ancient mower will be good as new! Thanks @IndRepair
Just adjusted my valves after replacing all electrical stuff😮, It spins freely now. Thanks for video!
Awesome! Great job! Thanks for watching!!
Done the trick brother thank you so much don't pay no attention to the negative comments.
I appreciate that! There's a know it all in every classroom haha thanks for watching!
This was the exact problem I had! Followed what you showed and it fired right up and runs like a champ! Thanks a million!
Awesome news! Great job!
This video saved me so much work fixing my Daughter's YTH 22V46, thank you so much. As an added plus, my Daughter thinks I'm a genius. LOL
Haha awesome job! Thank you for your support and for watching!!
This is the exact problem I've been having on my Scag Liberty Z (Kohler KT725), and it's been driving me NUTS. Battery, starter, and ignition were already replaced. Wish I had found you first, but oh well. At least now I know how to fix it! THANK YOU!!!
Awesome! Glad to help. Thanks for watching!!
Think on the bright side. You have some good spare parts if you still have the replaced parts.
The new carb made it run smoother and the new battery helped since the old one really needed replacement, but the valve adjustment got rid of the hard to turn over and now she runs better than when I got it. Thanks so much I had watched another valve adjustment video and did not get the results as when I followed your example. Maybe I did something wrong the first time but this time I did the TDC and it worked great the first time. Thanks for making a really nice video.
I appreciate that! So glad to help! Thanks for watching!
While martin did not say it, the customer had gone to another shop first and they were incompetent at the diagnosis and repair. Out of desperation they then brought the machine to Individualized repair. It's why I think individualized repair is one of the very best small engine lawnmower repair shops out there. He's one of the very tops in his field and a true professional, as he consistently correctly diagnosis and repairs these machines. As Taryl Dactyl says, "It's not the space shuttle, it's just a lawn mower." It also reminds me of the acronym KISS - keep it simple stupid. And if you watch enough of these lawnmower repair videos from the best UA-cam offers, then one concludes there is a common trend. What is it? First look for the simple things that usually fail, exactly as individualized repair does consistently. Thanks
for yet another highly informative and great video, Martin. But I have to confess, I don't think much of these "breaks and scrapem" intech engines at all. Bring back the old briggs and stratton flatheads!!! 👍👍👍
I appreciate that! I agree, the old flatheads worked well and very rarely had any issues
Hello Sir! Thank you very much for this video and all you do to help us to make the necessary repairs needed for our equipment. I was just given a Yard Machine 638rl and I'm having the same problem, but it also backfires during startup. The thing is when I first got it on the 6th of this month, it started up just fine. And then on the 8th it started up just fine as I cut my yard with it. But after my break, when I attempted to fire it back up, it backfired and then started. I then parked it and didn't mess with it again until yesterday the 13th. And that's when I realized that it was dragging as if the battery was dying. I kept on trying and it finally backfired and started up. But when I shut it off and tried it again, I couldn't get it to start again until I put the battery charger on it, and that's when it backfired and started up again. Could that also be a problem with the valves?
Have you tried diagnostics to see if your running on one cylinder? Could be a bent push rod, stuck valve of valve lash issue possibly
More than like it is, but you probably bent a valve rod or two check them two.
@@tonydalton8712
I would like to thank you for your response, but it was caused by the o-rings going bad in my Nikki carburetor, which allowed fuel to fill up my crankcase. But once i rebuilt the carburetor and drained the crankcase, that took care of the problem.
Great job!
Thank you this is exact issue I was having and it fixed the problem. It really seems like a battery or starter problem but its not. Never thought of checking the valves.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Same with my single cylinder B/S engine. Intake was so loose the engine would no longer start. After setting the valves the engine started first time. Now for an open question... my engine will not idle, runs very fast even with me holding the throttle against the idle screw. When I engage the blade it does slow down some, but no idle. Help - suggestions
@@larryjohns8823 vacuum leak. O-ring(or gasket) at cylinder head, carb-intake, or recently I've found one to leak through the throttle shaft of the carb.
@@mark102003 Thanks for the suggestions, I will check all of these possible problems.
My cub cadet has been doing this for months. I just try to start it a few times and it finally takes off. I tell myself that I will fix it later (aka check starter, solenoid, etc) but end up procrastinating and then forgetting about it until its time to mow again, so then I just try it a few times until it takes. Now I found this video and the fix. The one time in my life that procrastination paid off. lol
Haha nice!! I tell my wife all the time when procrastination helps me but rarely actually put anything off for long
Thanks for watching!
Got a YTH18542 which is a single cyl Intek doing exactly that. I'll go set the valves and I bet it runs. Only a year and 1/2 old and got it for $200 because it wouldn't run. I bet I'll have a practically new mower in a few mins. This is the first OHV mower engine I've ever worked on. I'm used to the old stuff. You're a great help. Now that I've seen it it's almost exactly like working on an old VW engine. The same valve settings too.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
@@IndRepair Ended up being the compression release on the cam. One of those 18.5 Intek starting with 33. So I replaced the cam. All is well now. Looked at the motor on my older one and it's a 33 series 18.5 as well. So I ordered a cam for when it inevitably does the same thing.
@@IndRepair Still not bad. For a total of $300 and about 2 hours of work. I got a mower that's only 1.5 years old. Still had the little nubs on the tires. And yes I bought OEM vs. going the cheaper route.
@@JasonElser Defintely a common issue. I have replaced 6 or 7 so far this year and we usually see around 20 fail each year. Great job getting it done!
@@JasonElser Great buy!
had to adj my choke cable,and magneto air gaps,on mine,was hard starting,thanks for video,i havnt had the decompress give me trouble,i did adj valves awhile ago,starts easy now finally
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I've had this problem for quite a while and this has fixed it. Keep up the good work and keep those videos coming!
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching!!
@@IndRepair had 2 craftsman mowers do that, the 1st was a green one that was shaped like a bug... mom kept having me put batteries in they always go dead and wouldn't start.. the next one like the one in the video started doing the same thing after 2 or 3 months and I put a motorcycle battery in with WAY more amp hours then it needed... the 2nd time I went to mow it was dead. I wore out the green one starting it with a jump box over the years so I took the battery out of the red one and got a nice little jump box... it spins it really really fast and starts everytime w no battery and hump box. I don't think its a valve ajustment
Right on
You the Man !!! There’s one season on my new Briggs+Stratton engine and it has this exact problem . I would have thought that the battery was dropping charge etc ,etc and eventually it would have driven me crazy enough to shot it with a 12 bore😵💫. Thanks to you for making the video, and thank God for UA-cam for useful content, instead of the goofy attention seekers falling off stuff. Out. 🎤
I am glad to help! Thanks for watching!!
Thanks. Until I saw this video of yours, I watched a bunch of single cylinder videos where they say the cam shaft was broken because there was no "bump" in the valve movement during rotation. On the twin cyclinder models, I guess there is no bump, and tomorrow I am going to do exactly this -remove each spark plug independently and test if one allows starter to turn over, and see if one side is the culprit then go set valve gap. Thanks and I hope this solves it.
I hope you get it taken care of!
Great job Mr. Martin! The world would cease to exist if not for people like you! You solved my same problem!
I appreciate that!
I have been having this issue for a while now on my Craftsman (same as your Husqvarna)
I had recently replaced the solenoid as the old one did look aged and had poor resistance. (with an EV 250 Amp unit that I had ) seemed to improve things, but suspect it was coincidental.
Spotted your vid and as I hadn't done a tappet adjustment yet did indeed find one side had excessive lash.
Did a, by sight and feel adjustment on both cylinders (my feeler gauges are at work). Couldn't believe how different it was after (42 years as mechanic, but not on small engines for the last 38)
Thanks for the tips.👍
Tagged your video on one of mine where I had asked if anyone knew what it was.
Great job! Thanks for watching and for your comment!
I wish I had seen this video before the "I've changed out the entire electrical system and the crazy thing still won't start" point. Haha. Thank you!
Lol it definitely happens!!
Great video TY. I have 450 hours on mine. I run full synthetic on my 22V endurance 5-30w from 300 hours. Big diff on starting and motor runs much smoother as well. On my 3rd battery outside storage only dead of winter with a tarp. 2012 New purchase. All original except blade spindles,
Nice! Thanks for watching!
Have suggestion, the spindle bearings can be replaced. Usually much cheaper than the entire spindle. They usually use a 6203 Bearing, take the spindle shaft out, and drive the bearings out, and drive the new bearings in, grease put back together ready to use again.
They sure can be! Problem is that many times they get s5uck on the shaft and have to be cut or heated up to be removed which is a lot of time. For an individual with some extra time on their hands may make sense but spindles are pretty cheap anymore!
I had the same problem. Adjusted the valves and that fixed it.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much man. I'm having the same issue with my mower and I have the exact same mower as that one and I'm having issues with it not starting and the starter is hitting the flywheel but it won't turn over or start and the fanwheel/flywheel is very tight. So I will be checking this tomorrow morning when I get up and hopefully fix it because it's a very nice mower and I only paid $250 for it so I definitely got a deal on it and if I can get it fixed with just adjusting the valve spacing, I will be very happy.
Awesome, would love to hear how it goes
Excellent video. I'm doing a repair for this same issue, on the same engine right now and I did not think of determining whether the problem was isolated to one cylinder or the other. You've possibly saved me quite a bit of effort before I go down the camshaft compression release rabbit hole. Thank you very much for demonstrating this idea.
EDIT: I adjusted the valves to .006 intake and .008 exhaust as you stated in the video and no improvement. I checked the B&S site for the clearance specs for the 400000 series Intek and they specify .004 - .006 for both intake and exhaust. I re-adjusted the valves to .004 intake and a loose .004 exhaust and it's cranking like a champ every time now. Just wanted to let you know and again thank you for saving me a lot of unnecessary work.
A good reminder to aways check the valve specs for your specific engine, sometimes they are different! Great job! Glad you got it going!
Good video.
Thank you!
I’ve learned my about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.
Definitely takes a while some places!
Thanks for watching!
Good video pointing out that it's better to spend more time diagnosing and less time changing parts! One thing I'd mention - it's not just TDC, but TDC on the compression stroke (so you can be sure the valves are closed.) Or alternatively, you can turn the engine until the valve you're NOT adjusting on is open, which means the valve you're adjusting on will be closed. James Condon (the "generator guy") was the first person I saw on YT to point out this shortcut.
We do this adjustment the same way on our video at ua-cam.com/video/ZdcBFuwoH4I/v-deo.htmlsi=OA5O2c9eoovpliPg with a similar issue. If you are at top dead center and the intake valve (top valve) is still not fully closed, you know you are not on the compression stroke on these engines. I should have mentioned that! Good tip!
They have an auto decompressor on the exhaust cam. When the valve clearance gets too loose they dont decompress enough. Similar to a lot of 4 stroke single cylinder motorcycles also.
Yes sir! Thanks for watching!
The Briggs twin has the valve "kicker" machined onto the cam lobe...that's why valve clearance is so critical. The inherent problem with the Briggs singles is a mechanical device that breaks and ends up in the bottom of the crankcase, this that cam must be replaced. Also, if you're not sure how to feel the slight drag on a feeler gauge, try the go/no go method. Try the correct thickness, then try a deeper gauge .002 thicker...the correct one should slide between the parts easily with little drag and the thicker one should not.
"thicker"...not "deeper"...duh.
Fixed the issue I was having. Thanks for the video! It's the only one I could find covering compression stopping the starter I could find!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for making this video! Same "cranking pause" situation I was in and your video was the answer!
Great job!
Appreciate the information. I've been working online with the exact same problem.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
We have a tendency to make things difficult. You Martin did a great job explaing , take care.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Awesome 👍 job guys I appreciate all your Tips and video's keep up the great work.
Thanks for that and for watching! I appreciate the positive support!
Thanks, I've been fighting this issue all summer. Not a fan of the briggs intek, it is a mower that I threw together from an old JD lx series and the engine from a snapper lt series. After replacing the carb and starter and buying both mowers it is still cheaper than buying a new pto clutch for my JD 318 (23 hp kohler command repower)....i have probably half the price invested in this thrown together mower. Wish I had looked into this months ago, it would of saved some frustration
They can be a pit. Thanks for watching!!
Great video. My husky with a kohler is doing the same thing. I thought it was coil problem. But this helped to identify the problem.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Thankyou I have this symptom on a Greenfield evolution and I know the electrical side is fine so will be checking this out😊
Definitely!
thats excellent how you diagnosed the problem well done that really helps i have an engine that i think thats has the same problem will check it now tha ti know what to do
I appreciate that!
Now that I went down the rabbit hole of changing all starting components and getting nowhere, and finding out that the first thing to do is a simple valve adjustment is 99% effective, this is now my starting point on all small engines, wish I'd known sooner!!! Just start with it cause you know they're in need of it anyway
Yeah, they do need adjustment and seems like every one I work on is overdue
Thank you !!!!! That's just what my unit is doing.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Thanks best video ever. Just fixed 17 year old poulan pro 42".
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
It’s hard to turn buy hand it spins easy hits a hard spot and then I gota give it good effort and then it gets easy , I saw difference once u fixed it so I think this my issue as well it struggles to start even direct jump but I guess I’ll find out tmrw when I check Val clearance thank u 🙏 this really helped give me a idea of what’ I think is happening
Awesome news hope it gets you taken care of
Very good video. That's exactly what my mower does. I'll work on it when I get home from work. Thank You
Awesome! Let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
That was my issue. Thanks for the great vid. I tried all the usual electrical things none of which solved it.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Very helpful video. My mower has the same symptoms so I hope that all I have to do is adjust the valves like you did.
I wish you well in your quest to get it going!
Awesome information, I have a Husky YTH18642, 42in Deck, doing the same exact thing, just did the plugs and all maintenance like 8 months ago, went to fire it up the other day and it’s did not want to fire it up, what I found it’s very hard one one side of the compression stoke by hand, I can get it to turn but takes some good strength, should i Inspect the Valves first? Or try a starter possibly weak?
And if Inspect the valves do I have to drain all the oil first? Thanks so much for sharing all this.
I would definitely inspect hard side to turn valves first. No need to drain the oil. Hope you get it going! Thanks for watching!
I/4" past top dead center on the compression stroke.Piston down 1/4" past top dead center or flywheel moved 1/4" past top center?
Great video. I was hoping I found my answer. I am having the same problem where the engine won't turn with the spark plug in but will with it out. I adjusted the valves and it still does the same thing. Is there something else? Thanks
Is the loss speed compression release visibly working?
If it has high hours on it, cam is probably wearing out.
@@patriotlife589 Thanks, I replaced the cam.👍👍
Excellent diagnosis thank you
Thank you
Had the same problem with my cub, did a valve adjustment and it has worked ever since.
Awesome news!
Same thing happening on my 19hp Briggs single cylinder. Took the plug out and she turns over just fine. Thanks for the advice.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, I should have listened to myself before I bought a starter and battery. Battery was old so that got me started chasing a potential electrical issue. I should have known the valve was this issue when I couldn't turn the motor easily.
Thing present as different things so often it really is amazing how one problem can be 10 different things. Thanks for watching!
the 18.5 twin craftsman i am working on has a bent intake push rod on the left side and the exhaust valve was at .022 on the right side
Not good!
My exact problem on the same engine thank you so much
Thanks for watching!
That was a great video, you explained everything in detail, 👍👍.
Glad to help! Thanks for your kind works and for watching!
I've got new battery and solenoid but now it won't even try to turn over so I'm hoping this helps.. prob gonna order a starter if all my wiring looks good..
For sure
Great video, but what are you doing/feeling for when sticking the screwdriver down the sparkplug hole?
We are making sure the piston is going up/down. When you adjust the valves the piston should be 1/4" past top dead center. This means you watch the piston come all the way to the top with the screwdriver and make a mark (TDC). You then make another mark 1/4" up the screwdriver. When you continue to turn the engine and the second mark gets to the top of the spark plug hole, you are 1/4" past TDC.
@@IndRepair Okay, that's clear! Last question: How do you tell which rocker is intake and which is the exhaust?
@@Headcase0570 On these vertical shaft Briggs twins, the intake valve is on top, exhaust on the bottom.
Can’t be the only one who thinks he sounds like Tom Hanks…
Thanks for watching!!
I thought the exact same thing. However, he keeps saying, "go ahead......." For some reason that drives me nuts.
Too distracted by the mispronounced words.
Lol, take from it what you will
Forest Gump..
Been dealing with this for years! Thank you! Would you explain how you were finding TDC? Thanks for dealing with all the armchair experts to put out great information. It really helps.
Yeah I love to help! I do tend to misspeak about what I am doing or what something is called sometimes which never helps! You can find TDC by inserting something in the spark plug hole and rotating the engine clockwise from the flywheel end until the piston reaches its furthest point up. Most engines call for adjusting the valves at 1/4" past TDC so you would want to mark the furthest point up on whatever you are using in the spark plug hole (pencil, screwdriver, etc.) and let the piston go back in by 1/4" (still turning clockwise flywheel end) before setting the clearance. Hopefully this is what you need! Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepairI put a new FX730V on my Hustler and ever since I put it in, even with a new crate motor and new battery I’ve had to put a jump pack on the battery to get it fired up. It fires right up every time with the jump pack. I recall reading in the Kawi manual they called for a 400cca battery which all the U2 size for mowers are less than by 100-50 cca. Since then I’ve paid attention to other brands that use that motor and none of them have a battery rated that high. Is it possible my motor just needs valve lash checked in order to get the battery alone to fire it off? It’s done it from day 1 - brand new motor. Thanks!
@@wisdomspitter7688 It takes a pretty stout battery to turn. If it is brand new I would tend to think the battery may be the issue. We do see some problems with smaller CCA batteries on these engine. We use 350CCA u1-3 batteries for most things. Check the connections and ground wire to ensure everything is 100% tight also could just have a bad connection somewhere causing this to happen. Thanks for watching!
What brand of mower battery do you like best? I’m at a point in life where I’ll pay extra for an Optima or AGM to not have to fool with junk.
does this particular engine have a compression release on the cam? I'm working on a 24 hp like this and I have the engine apart and there is nothing on the camshaft as far as a compression release.
Some similar engines do not have this release
@@IndRepair thank you, I don't think this one ever did,, thanks again.
Definitely common on some of the older ones
Thanks for sharing this with us!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
as a note = trying to do a compression test on these by just cranking will give a false reading. on v-twins you can run one cylinder while checking the other. a better test is a cylinder leak test but this needs to be done with the cylinder around 40 degrees after tdc on the power stroke.
Leakdown test is always better for checking but many times a compression test will tell you just as much. Thanks for watching!
Question. I have a Troy built mower. Only one spark plug on mine though, but the same issue. I can removed the spark plug and turn over easily to relieve the compression. So can you tell me how to make sure mine is too center to try adjusting the valves on mine?
If this is on the Briggs intek engine you may have an issue with the same problem but many times it takes a camshaft replacement instead of just an adjustment. Your gets adjusted at 1/4" past top dead center just like this one but I would check to make sure the release is working in the first place. Watch our video on checking it at ua-cam.com/video/CaJ-EoUTtuE/v-deo.html
Thank you for this!! Super helpful!
So glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I would have made sure the stud that the rocker arm pivots on has not come loose and backed out.
Yes I did fail to mention checking the rocker pivot bolts! I see this issue with valve spacing after about 400 hours very often but very rarely see the rocker pivot back out slightly. Normally they are stripped out and spacing is off by 1/4" or more or there is a bent push rod and is very obvious. Thanks for pointing this out!
I have seen that happen before.
That is a good idea.
That's what happen to me, I kept adjusting the valves and it would run for about five minutes backfire them quit and wouldn't start. After about the third time (and a few bent push rods later) I noticed the rocker pivot bolt Was almost falling out! Used some blue lock tight on it and it fix it.
I just pull them and lock tight all four and torqued
You taught me a lot about my engine problem. Thanks for your time. Subbed and liked.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I was following you until you were working on the valves. I haven't worked on valves, so I'm not sure what you were using to calibrate the spacing. It kind of looked like pieces of sandpaper, but I know that's not what they are. What "tools" were you using for the spacing? Great video...I think you may be the answer to prayers. I've replaced a lot of parts up til now.
Edit: I found the spacing tool on Amazon.
Yes sir! Feeler gauges are really cheap and come in handy for many different things. We use the ones like these amzn.to/3VfaM7b
@IndRepair That's hilarious...I purchased last night on Amazon the same brand and price, but with 32 pieces instead of 16. I appreciate you.
Awesome!
Question: my Briggs 18 will start and run sometimes but starter barely turn the engine over most of the time. I adjusted the valves for your discussion, but I still have the same problem. Any other ideas? Will a starter do this? I thought a starter would either spin or not spin does it lose umph sometimes? Battery is fine. Thanks, Chris.
A bad connection at the battery, solenoid or starter will do this. Has the battery actually been tested?
Loose connections at the, battery, relay or starter can cause it as well. I found the valves clearance on my B&S was quite critical. It didn't have to be much oversize for the decompressor not to work. Had to check and readjust a few times because it sometimes changed when locking it off. I have heard its possible the decompressor cam to fail. Apparently when this happens you need a new cam shaft but they say its not difficult to replace. I've never done it myself.
Jump the battery with your car battery. If it solves the problem, check the water level in the battery and put it on a charger or bring it to be load tested and charged. If there is no change jump the negative battery terminal to a bare metal bolt or to the outer casing of the starter and try to start. If that fixes it the problem is a bad engine ground. If not, keep the negative jumper cable in place and connect the other one to the positive battery terminal and touch it to the battery cable terminal at the bottom of the starter. If that works clean and check all the cable connections on the battery, relay, starter and ground. If not, replace the starter.
@@ColinWatters Not really difficult to do but takes a lot of time because of getting the old gasket material off. These really do have a lot of issues with the cam and once the cam gets worn down some (so does the decompression pin on the cam) they are even more of a pain. Thanks for watching!
Could be your cam shaft
Interesting information and video. Thanks 👍
Thanks for watching!
Same symptoms I have on my 20 HP Kohler courage.single cylinder. OK, I'm a decent mechanic so I think I know how to do this. Never had a problem w/with setting valves before, but for some reason I get to TDC on comp stroke, set both valves correctly, check them again, and still I get the engine locking up when I try to start it. It WILL start fine if the engine wasn't right at the comp stroke, but when I try to start it and the engine is almost to TDC it will only turn a tiny bit and stop. I have to manually rotate the fly wheel, then it will start since it's now past the comp stage. I know what you're thinking... I don't have the valves adjusted correctly, but they are. this is very frustrating... any ideas? Some people say to turn the engine about a quarter turn past TDC, then set the valves. thoughts??? THANKS!!
Are you getting the compression release bump? If not you may have a bad camshaft
I had similar symptoms a few years back with my 27hp Kohler on my kubota zero turn mower. Rotate some and then bind. In that case it was the starter shaft had actually bent. I had to move the mower in the barn and temps were down in lower 40's and it bent while trying to start it. Apparently not uncommon. The replacement starter supposedly had a harder shaft and also came with a gear that was 1 tooth less so that it had more torque to turn the engine over. No problems since.
I have only see it a couple times but when I did see it the valve spacing was an issue once and the wrong starter was the problem the other time. Thanks for watching and for your information!
Awesome job
Good points and info full watch!💯💪🏾
Thanks for watching!!
TY for Sharing
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I’m having the same issues on a kohler 19 hp courage, on a Cub cadet 1042, where the starter will lock up trying to turn it over when cold. When hot it works fine, good battery, what did u say the clearance are for the intake and exhaust were? Just about to replace the starter but thought I would check that first. Unit has 356 hours on it and never been touched.
Clearances on this are .004" Intake -.006" Exhaust (0.10 - 0.15mm)
Thanks for this , I have the same issue
Glad to help!
Big thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Very, Very Good. Mucho Thanks.
Thank you!
Thank you!! I think this is my issue!!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Please explain where you stopped turning the cam shaft and how it feels before you adjust the values.
We are looking for top dead center of the compression stroke. If you hold you finger over the plug hole when you start to get some compression as the piston comes up you know that is the compression stroke. On the exhaust stroke this compression will not occur. Go 1/4" past the TDC position (1/4" past piston all the way up) Adjust the valves and reassembly
What are you using to record with? The sound goes in and out, high and low.
Hello! Thanks for watching! Some of the talking is done while walking away from or facing away from the camera. This may be when you are speaking about? Something to improve upon for sure! This was shot using a GoPro Hero 11
Great video thanks 😊.
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thanks I have a Husky 2654. Same deal. Was just about to head to Walmart for another battery. 😊
Awesome!
Classic case of Joe homeowner learning to stay on his lane. This is why you take stuff to mechanics. Well done.
Absolutely!
THIS did it. Thanks so much!
Awesome job! Thanks for watching!
WoW, thanks !
My Cub cadet acted that way since I bought it new.
Adjust it and let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
Omg another video exact same symptoms exact Breaks n Scrapem engine so clear somebody makes tractor and puts Deere Husquvarna TroyBilt colors and logo likely others. As Deere owner I got a heartwarming love note about where it was (assembled) after shipped in from Mexico. What a f’n racket
Definitely disappointing! Did yours have a huge American flag on it with this note?
@ can’t remember but mine has about 25 hours on it so will sell when approaching 100-125 hours
@@doncook3584 Definitely a good idea
Has anyone tried an "additive" (gas treatment/fuel injector/carb internal additive to tank) but not the kind you clean carbs)? I've used a gas treatment added to my vans gas tanks on a regular basis to keep the injector/carb clean from trash during operation.I was just wondering if there's something (not necessarily a "storage additive for winter months to keep moisure, gummy varnish out). Thanks guys!!!
There are a lot of people who use these additives and they really do not do a lot for keeping the fuel good. Many of them will help with the rubber of the carburetor or fuel system but do little else
Well, I disagree. Anything that keeps moisture/water and gummy-varnishlike substance out of gasoline, tank and the carbs are beneficial.
I agree with that statement. Most additives do not work to prevent gumming or phase separation. They claim this, but do not work like they should. There are quite a few videos that test the usefulness of these products in fuel over a time period and they fail every time. The only thing we have found that does much of anything is 2-Butoxyethanol and it just reduces the surface tension between the fuel and ethanol/methanol/moisture to prevent or reverse phase separation and fuel degradation
Wouldn't it be nice if my yt "H" 18542 riding mower had it so easy with a simple rubber boot that snaps onto the spark plug tip?? Instead, mine uses a metal/tin "arrestor" that snaps onto the tip. The issue is that I couldn't get it off after it's 1st 3 yrs on there. Because of trying to pull it out, the tip of the plug broke. Of course, I was trying to replace the plug, but to make matters worse, the frickin' spark plug wire of the coil that attaches to this metal 'n rubber part broke out of its housing. Now, I'll have to buy a new coil and spark plug wire. I put the "arrestor part" back over the tip of the plug, but it doesn't snap over the tip like rubber boots do. I'm stumped having worked on autos, lawn equipment and now the tractor for the first time. Suggestions on getting the part back on the plug after my new "arrestor" and coil arrives?
It should just go right one with all new parts. I hate this design also!!
Another major problem in the design is getting to a bolt at the rear off and on. Trying to fit the hand, wrench back there and align the bolt into both the hole and the hole of the plastic anchor of the oil filler tube into the engine was a real b____. The second was attempting to get the headlamp harness off to put the hood aside. No matter how hard I pulled, it wouldn't slide out and I was afraid to hear my arm/hand yanking it away.
Wow!
Sounds like a real pain!
@@IndRepair Pain? It took me about 2 hours to line up the bolt through the cover into the oil reservoir tube and into the engine from behind the engine with 2 fingers. A real flaw in design when the cover screw holes should have been more to the sides.
GOOD INFO THANK U 😀
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I have the same problem, I did everything like you and still one cylinder blocks the start sequence. Is it the camshaft ? One cylinder works and the other doesn't? There is only one compression release on the camshaft ?
Are you getting the compression release bumps from the rocker on both sides or just one?
Does the same concept apply for a Kohler courage 20 with no compression relief?
Without the compression relief you are probably talking about a push rod broken/bent, valve stuck or timing off. The same electrical principles will apply
Quick and easy…. love! it man
Thanks for watching!
if no feeler gauge-use a piece of a pop can - close enough
If it works it works
when in the field- you use what you have@@IndRepair
@@armyvet4081 I agree 100% we used to work on grain bin dryers in extremely remote areas if you couldn't fix it then and there with what you had a bin full of grain could go bad
What causes that squeaking noise though? I've got an Intek that runs fine but drives me batty with the squeaking on startup...
a mouse has nested under the top cover
Yeah it's annoying! Usually the starter and flywheel gear mating I believe, never really paid much attention
So I'm back here again after 8 months, last time I commented I checked the valve clearances and everything looked good, but now it's to the point I have to turn the top by hand while cranking to get it to catch. I've seen a couple videos where theres a compression release doohickey that breaks off the camshaft sometimes but I've only seen single cylinder motors, do the Vtwins have that on there as well?
Great video….but…test battery off and on for voltage first? If good then? Valves?
I would definitely check the starting system and all connections before jumping to a valve issue. Does the engine turn freely by hand from the top or is it difficult?
@@IndRepair 12 year old Husky…12,7 of up to 14…running. Charging system original 3 or 4 battery over 12 years stored outside tarp. Every year this time battery low to dead. Charge it up fine. Bizzare.
@@skiprope536 Check out the charging system. Yours may be different but same basic design on all of them ua-cam.com/video/Ll7pJBOOMTE/v-deo.htmlsi=8Awx5GRHi8AByMs6
My Husqvarna yth22v, cub cadet both do the same thing. My troy bilt also did the same thing.
Definitely a common issue!
I got the same problem on my mower, but it's only a one cylinder , but probably the same issue . Thanks 🙂
Could be for sure!
I got a Briggs and stratin 17.5 hp I bought a new battery new starter and new starter solenoid adjust the valves to spec just like you did in video and mine still won’t spin what else could it be ?
@@mattavery761camshaft.
The ACR breaks off all of the singles, eventually!
Compression release on the camshaft was probably the issue?
They sure do!
Valve lash is off....happens at about 600 hours on twin briggs....very common
I see it a lot earlier but correct with the diagnosis!!