Brother you made this video 3 years ago and I want to thank you for your help here in 2024! Learned a lot today and got the lawn mowed with no money spent. You're a legend!
Was given a Craftsman lt1000 that didnt run. Carb float was stuck, filled the crankcase with gas. Cleaned the carb and gave it an oil change. Threw a new battery in it, new gas and fuel filter, had good spark and compression. Couldn't get the thing to start, would lock up the flywheel and the starter couldn't overcome it. Came across your video and gave it a go. Had probably .030 on the intake, set both to .004 and it fired up first crank. Took all of 10 minutes, thanks for the good video!
you have a (small ) error in your comment -------filled the crank case with gas ---- i do not think so oil in crankcase only i know it was a miss print
Oh man, your comment saved my ass. Had a similar issue and I was going down a starting circuit rabbit hole. Mine was an incorrect spark plug that was causing too much air in the engine and my starter motor couldn't overcome the increased compression and drew too much voltage causing a voltage drop.
Finally fixed. My starter motor was getting 12v but wouldn't turn the flywheel even when attached directly to battery, but I could hand turn the engine pretty easily. Turns out I got a new sparkplug with my carburetor kit and installed a plug that was too short. It caused more air to be allowed into the cylinder. When my start motor would try to turn the flywheel, it couldn't overcome the increased compression and would draw too much voltage causing a voltage drop. You video helped me out a lot and got me up and running.
When I did mine this morning and I saw that little bump you showed I was so happy knowing all that was needed was the adjustment. I bought an old mower without a manual and had no idea this kind of problem existed. Thank you Sir
I have to do the same thing. Just spent $75 on new battery & starter. Engine locks up on compression stroke. I remove spark plug & it cranks over perfectly. *Quick easy start tip is remove air filter & BLOCK OFF intake with a peice of rubber & crank it to start. If there's NO AIR sucked in to compress, the starter can usually get past the compression stroke & USUALLY start on its' own.*
Thank you so so so so much for this video! I didnt have feeler gauges (mine are 550 miles away from me and the nearest store is 30 miles away), so I used a piece of copier paper for a feeler gauge, LOL. According to some random webpage, standard bond copier paper is 0.0045". I went for a very light drag. I know, shade tree, meet mechanic. 😂 The exhaust rocker bolt had backed out several turns, so it was a miracle the thing ran at all when it finally wouldnt start anymore. (The mower was a gift from the neighbors, it had sat for 2 years and they just wanted to get rid of it.)
Thank you. I have been having a problem and pretty much knew I had a cam issue. I wasn't able to find a video like this anywhere. Thanks for really pointing it out and explaining it. Most videos never really make sure you got it, they just sort of hope you got it lol. Good vid
Thanks for the video. Watched a few to get the jist of adjusting the valves as I had never done it on a small engine. Love your humor and thought you might get a kick out of the fact that I straightened out one of my bent pushrods with a brass mallet.
I have 2 doing the exact same thing , motors turn slightly and stops, Bump is fine on both,, i set valves over and over, finally tighten the nuts and star screw on the rocker arms finger tight so no play in the valves. Been working fine ever since.
Let me tell you my story. 1st my 1996 Snapper 14 HP tractor style mower mower hydro locked after not using over the winter because the carburetor was leaking gas into the cylinder and crank case Changed the oil. Put a new float needle in the carb and did the same thing after sitting for a couple of weeks. Then I installed a cutoff in the gas line - problem solved. Sometime later it seemed to hydro again but I knew it was not the gas leaking. I adjusted the valves which were not really out of whack, no luck, Then I bought a new 275 amp battery from Wally World. Cranked really easy. Cut my yard and cut off a few times and cranked right back up. Put the mower up. Went to crank it up a few days later and it cranked great but was running wide open. Found a twig in the governor mechanism and removed it. Now that baby is back to making my yard lock great and still going strong on it's 27th season. Bought it used in 2007 and the only thing I've done to it is the above plus a front wheel bearing, a few batteries, new blades, a new throttle cable and changed the oil. And that bad boy doesn't even have an oil filter. Never changed any belts or bearings in the deck. In 15 years I have not spent even $200 total on it except for about 3 batteries. For years I cut my grass when very damp and never washed out the underside of the deck. Took it off later and scraped the stuck grass off , washed it and not a rusty place anywhere. Wish they still sold those little bad boys.. Bought a new Craftsman last year for back up on sale as a return for half price plus the military discount but I like the old Snapper better and it does a better job. Makes my lawn look like carpet. The new mower has foot controls for forward and reverse. I hate it. The Snapper has a fender mounted lever for that and is way easier. Both are automatic transmissions of course. Ok _End of my story.
Thanks man i recently got an old troy bilt thats been sitting a couple years to run again and im pretty sure it just needs a valve adjustment but ill be lookin for that bump just incase!
Hello great video , I am surprised to see the decompression bump on the the intake valve . I operate an ATV repair service and encounter de compressors all the time and have never seen one on the intake lobe not the exhaust ????
Have you ever seen one of these briggs motors with the intake valve on top? There are no numbers on my valve cover for me to see what series the motor is specifically (just know it is a 17.5hp in a Scotts S1742). Every video I have watched has the intake valve on the bottom with the aluminum push rod on the bottom, but mine has the aluminum rod on top which has caused me to believe that the top has to be the intake valve. But now I am wondering if someone worked on this motor previously and mixed up the push rods
Thanks for the tutorial. I work on all my own mowers but I hadn't ever adjusted the valves. I know you busy like all of us these days. I thought with age things would slow down a bit..lol...seems like I'm more busy at 55 than ever..lol Okay, to my question sir... I just bought an older rider, MTD Product with a 17 hp Sabre ( someone replaced the original engine on this Power Pro which had a 12 hp originally..So this thing has either some serious compression or something else that has me stumped...but with a good charged 12 v battery it turns over as if the battery weak. My meter says different ( tried several batteries) but in order to start this thing I have to jumper two batteries together and hit it with 24 v to turn it fast enough to start. What's your thoughts? Thank you in advance with any suggestions.
My bad , in my previous comment/question I didn't make it clear that I was going to check the valves as your video showed straight forward as I prefer info. I only was asking if infact you think that's my problem or dò think there is more to it? Thanks
Once you adjust the valves, with spark plug removed, spin the engine over with your hand slowly. You will see valves open and close, you are looking for an additional bump open on one of the valves. That will tell you if your compression release on the cam shaft is working. I'm filming a video today on a cub cadet rescue that will show exactly what I'm talking about. I also have another video showing how it works. The video I'm working on should be out this weekend, I have a ton of editing to do after filming.
@@RaleysSmallEngines Thanks for your prompt response good sir. Your time and effort is appreciated. This work is your livelihood and I assume a source of income for you.. I myself an insurance agent and owner of an insurance agency. More importantly, I'm a country boy raised on a farm. Driving tractors at a young age , my Dads old Chevy C10 which I had to stand up to depress the clutch to shift the 3 on the tree and no pwr steering lol. Miss that old truck and even more I miss the Ole Man. It He was the best man I have ever known to date...the world was a better place with him it but part of me is glad he isn't here to see the shape of things in our country... forgive the tangent. So your advise is then a service you could choose not to give for free...but the fact that you do so helps tip the scales in a positive direction in restoring my faith in the people of a country I love but find myself feeling a sense of embarrassment when I see a common mantra adopted of "what's in it for me" with a goverment that is liken to that of a circus event in which what we see ģoing on before us in the main arena is nothing like what the ad poster promised. And they don't seem to care that the audience ( the American constituency ) is watching them carry out the destruction of the nation. I proudly served her for 8 yrs including 2 x in the PG and I would like to think that at least in spirit it wasn't all for nothing.... So, to that point I thank you for your part taking time to help others( simply because you choose to ..one of honorable traits which once made our country a better place Ps. I give you my word , I will never send you such an over the top and lengthy comment.. thanks again..
My Kohler 7000 won't turn by hand, so I can't test the movement of the valves. I can't rotate it at all, seems frozen. Both spark plug chambers were dry and plugs looked clean gray as they should be, so it wasn't flooded with gas so I don't think it's hydrolocked. Starter spins just fine. Solenoid and battery also tested fine. What to do?
I got a mower with a new nikki carb. I did notice there appears to be gas in the oil. I'm not sure if the carb is still an issue or if they didn't do an oil change after changing the carb. This mower has the same symptoms as the mower in the video. I tried adjusting the valves 2 times. Once to 004 and another time to spec 005 and 006. Still don't wanna turn over. I checked and got the bump on bottom rocker. But i hear a clicking noise at the bump. Do you think the cam is bad? I hate to open the engine up for no reason.
@ryanschaffer5777 I ended up opening the engine up, and the cam was still good. Everything else looked good too. There was a little play where the counter weight attaches to the crankshaft. So I'm guessing that's the noise I was hearing. I put it all back together, and now it starts easy. I am wondering if I just did a crap job on valve adjustment. I have seen several videos that say adjustment should be done at top dead center. So I did that. I re-watched this video and realized he was adjusting the open valve while the other was closed. When I turned the engine to that point after adjustment at top dead center and they were loose. So I adjusted exactly how T-Bone did in the video, and now no problems.
There seems to be a 3 part fix. A new camshaft is one of them, but then another UA-camr has a video about installing the new cam with modifications. You have to make sure the lever that goes into the cam slot is flush with the cam. If not file the lever to be flush with the cam, not catching slightly as the rod crosses over it. Then put an AC compressor O-ring on the outside of the weight, that way it keeps the weight from rocking as it is going around. The rocking adds more of a chance for the lever to cock its way up into the bottom of the rod while spinning as well. He showed the counter weight itself has about .o9o of rock of the weight on the little shaft it resides on; side to side motion. What's more promising he showed it with the O-ring installed and really looks good; like there is plenty of room for oil to still get between the O-ring and the shaft to allow oiling. He's got over a year on his now, so there is hope for those of us with metal shards residing in the bottom of our oil pans... I know you have made a decision by now. I'm thinking of just going in and taking the metal out and leaving the cam installed without the compression relief. Just using the hand method over the air inlet for now. I won't post the video on another person's channel, but it is out there; just watched it. Happy mowing.
maybe you can help me out im trying to get the piston conecting rod cap off and it has 2 looks like torx screws holding the rod cap on and i cant see it well enough to tell what sise they are and dont want to strip them out any help would be appriciated thanks
What's weird, two different sources, and two different determinations for which is intake & exhaust valves. Theres One a couple videos back obviously doesn't realize he's calling top valve the intake. I'll try to get that link in history. Cheers
What is the issue when a craftsman v2 engine spins very fast???? I was using mower when suddenly a metal clicking/rattling started happening with the motor immediately stopping!!! Now when ya turn the motor over it spins very fast like there is not compression or like both spark plugs are removed!!!! Engine was running tip top until this happened!!! Got any suggestions for me???
Yes .... the valve seat in the head came out and is holding the valve open. I am doing a video on that exact problem this week. Including how to repair it for about $20 bucks.
I don't have the little bump :( I just picked up lawn tractor with a B+S 21HP. Owner said blown engine. Won't start. I tried it and the starter just spun freely. The starter gear was obviously broken. So I paid the man and brought it home. Took the starter from another motor, charged the battery, and was a little stubborn, but started. Started a few times actually. I think I just got lucky because I can't start it again. Did the valve adjustment and still hard, or won't crank, at all.
No bump = bad cam shaft. Just got one in the shop this week same issue. Hopefully will have a cam shaft video soon. It's not a difficult repair. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned and when the parts come in I will get a video out as soon as I can.
@@RaleysSmallEngines I've ordered the camshaft. But I was able to start it, then adjusted the valves, now can't. Build date is 11/09 and I can tell someone's been in there before in it's 12 year life based on using sealer rather than a gasket. Is there a valve setting that can overcome the lack of the compression release that I messed up trying to fix it?
@@jeffflowers729 If the compression release is broken off the cam shaft valve adjustment will not help. When you tear down the engine you will find broken pieces of metal inside the crankcase that came off the cam. Be sure to clean the inside of that engine clean enough to eat off of. If you don't have a parts washer you can use brake cleaner and compressed air and/or rags.
@@RaleysSmallEngines thank you. For now I found a temporary fix. If you remove the air cleaner and cover the inlet with your palm to create a seal, it reduces the amount of air intake so less pressure and the engine will turn over. then pull your hand off and it starts.
Good Video, I got the same engine . My cam has the same bump with a good opened intake but my exhaust value opens about 1/8 of an inch , nothing like the intake. I was mowing and it started coughing , so I cut it off and parked it. What is wrong? , the value glide is not the problem ,I can push it all the way down with my fingers, the push rod is not bent. I think it is the lifter or the cam lobe, that is all I can figure out. I hate tearing down the engine. HELP..
Thanks for watching. Yes sir, that sounds like a lobe on the cam. I know it's sounds like a pain, but it's not a difficult job. Just a little time consuming getting everything clean and gaskets removed.
Mines problem is the fuel pump those engines don't need it im gonna put the battery under the seat and the fuel tank under the hood how it is on all my other mowers. Mine idles on the first crank up and idles hi im sure it needs adjusted but any other crank ups the gas floods to the piston because those engines aren't made with fuel pumps someone added the fuel pump onto this engine i just bought for 40 dollars anyhow the fuel pump will be coming off for good and no more fuel tank under the seat. I wouldn't be surprised if my valves need reset i seen someone used puddy instead of a gasket on the cover and looks like the wrong grade to so im gonna go over it all after a pressure washing. At first my engine acted like it was a camshaft problem or compression release until i could hear the gas splashing around so when i took the spark plug out the gas poured out into the grass and dirt i l cranked it over awhile to blow the rest out then let it sit then put plug back in and it ran but needs adjusted and the exhaust smoke color is showing its getting to much fuel at once plus its old fuel so im glad mines not another bad camshaft cause they cost to much from briggs
Brother you made this video 3 years ago and I want to thank you for your help here in 2024! Learned a lot today and got the lawn mowed with no money spent. You're a legend!
Was given a Craftsman lt1000 that didnt run. Carb float was stuck, filled the crankcase with gas. Cleaned the carb and gave it an oil change. Threw a new battery in it, new gas and fuel filter, had good spark and compression. Couldn't get the thing to start, would lock up the flywheel and the starter couldn't overcome it. Came across your video and gave it a go. Had probably .030 on the intake, set both to .004 and it fired up first crank. Took all of 10 minutes, thanks for the good video!
Wow, that is great 👍🏻 . So glad this video helped you out.
you have a (small ) error in your comment -------filled the crank case with gas ---- i do not think so oil in crankcase only i know it was a miss print
@@frankdavidson9675 The carb leaked the gas into the crankcase. Re-read and apologize to the man
I have the lts1500 with the same issue. Bent push rod on the bottom. Would that be the intake then or exhaust?
Oh man, your comment saved my ass. Had a similar issue and I was going down a starting circuit rabbit hole. Mine was an incorrect spark plug that was causing too much air in the engine and my starter motor couldn't overcome the increased compression and drew too much voltage causing a voltage drop.
Finally fixed. My starter motor was getting 12v but wouldn't turn the flywheel even when attached directly to battery, but I could hand turn the engine pretty easily. Turns out I got a new sparkplug with my carburetor kit and installed a plug that was too short. It caused more air to be allowed into the cylinder. When my start motor would try to turn the flywheel, it couldn't overcome the increased compression and would draw too much voltage causing a voltage drop. You video helped me out a lot and got me up and running.
When I did mine this morning and I saw that little bump you showed I was so happy knowing all that was needed was the adjustment. I bought an old mower without a manual and had no idea this kind of problem existed. Thank you Sir
So glad it helped. Thank you so much for watching.
I have to do the same thing. Just spent $75 on new battery & starter. Engine locks up on compression stroke. I remove spark plug & it cranks over perfectly. *Quick easy start tip is remove air filter & BLOCK OFF intake with a peice of rubber & crank it to start. If there's NO AIR sucked in to compress, the starter can usually get past the compression stroke & USUALLY start on its' own.*
Thank you so so so so much for this video! I didnt have feeler gauges (mine are 550 miles away from me and the nearest store is 30 miles away), so I used a piece of copier paper for a feeler gauge, LOL.
According to some random webpage, standard bond copier paper is 0.0045". I went for a very light drag. I know, shade tree, meet mechanic. 😂
The exhaust rocker bolt had backed out several turns, so it was a miracle the thing ran at all when it finally wouldnt start anymore. (The mower was a gift from the neighbors, it had sat for 2 years and they just wanted to get rid of it.)
Helpful! Got a free old 17hp intek running after watching this! Cheers from Australia
That's Great thank you so much for watching our channel.
Thank you. I have been having a problem and pretty much knew I had a cam issue. I wasn't able to find a video like this anywhere. Thanks for really pointing it out and explaining it. Most videos never really make sure you got it, they just sort of hope you got it lol. Good vid
Thank you, glad it helped
Thanks for the video. Watched a few to get the jist of adjusting the valves as I had never done it on a small engine. Love your humor and thought you might get a kick out of the fact that I straightened out one of my bent pushrods with a brass mallet.
I have 2 doing the exact same thing , motors turn slightly and stops, Bump is fine on both,, i set valves over and over, finally tighten the nuts and star screw on the rocker arms finger tight so no play in the valves. Been working fine ever since.
Let me tell you my story. 1st my 1996 Snapper 14 HP tractor style mower mower hydro locked after not using over the winter because the carburetor was leaking gas into the cylinder and crank case Changed the oil. Put a new float needle in the carb and did the same thing after sitting for a couple of weeks. Then I installed a cutoff in the gas line - problem solved.
Sometime later it seemed to hydro again but I knew it was not the gas leaking. I adjusted the valves which were not really out of whack, no luck, Then I bought a new 275 amp battery from Wally World. Cranked really easy. Cut my yard and cut off a few times and cranked right back up. Put the mower up. Went to crank it up a few days later and it cranked great but was running wide open. Found a twig in the governor mechanism and removed it. Now that baby is back to making my yard lock great and still going strong on it's 27th season. Bought it used in 2007 and the only thing I've done to it is the above plus a front wheel bearing, a few batteries, new blades, a new throttle cable and changed the oil. And that bad boy doesn't even have an oil filter. Never changed any belts or bearings in the deck. In 15 years I have not spent even $200 total on it except for about 3 batteries.
For years I cut my grass when very damp and never washed out the underside of the deck. Took it off later and scraped the stuck grass off , washed it and not a rusty place anywhere. Wish they still sold those little bad boys.. Bought a new Craftsman last year for back up on sale as a return for half price plus the military discount but I like the old Snapper better and it does a better job. Makes my lawn look like carpet. The new mower has foot controls for forward and reverse. I hate it. The Snapper has a fender mounted lever for that and is way easier. Both are automatic transmissions of course.
Ok _End of my story.
Thank you for the training.
Thanks man i recently got an old troy bilt thats been sitting a couple years to run again and im pretty sure it just needs a valve adjustment but ill be lookin for that bump just incase!
Thanks for watching my friend. If ya have any questions just ask.
Amazing video, easy to see and understand, thanks!!!!
Nice video. Clear and directly to the point.
Good info On adjusting valves
Hello great video , I am surprised to see the decompression bump on the the intake valve . I operate an ATV repair service and encounter de compressors all the time and have never seen one on the intake lobe not the exhaust ????
Thanks for watching.
GOOD INFO...TKS.
Have you ever seen one of these briggs motors with the intake valve on top? There are no numbers on my valve cover for me to see what series the motor is specifically (just know it is a 17.5hp in a Scotts S1742). Every video I have watched has the intake valve on the bottom with the aluminum push rod on the bottom, but mine has the aluminum rod on top which has caused me to believe that the top has to be the intake valve. But now I am wondering if someone worked on this motor previously and mixed up the push rods
Thanks for the tutorial. I work on all my own mowers but I hadn't ever adjusted the valves. I know you busy like all of us these days. I thought with age things would slow down a bit..lol...seems like I'm more busy at 55 than ever..lol
Okay, to my question sir...
I just bought an older rider, MTD Product with a 17 hp Sabre ( someone replaced the original engine on this Power Pro which had a 12 hp originally..So this thing has either some serious compression or something else that has me stumped...but with a good charged 12 v battery it turns over as if the battery weak. My meter says different ( tried several batteries) but in order to start this thing I have to jumper two batteries together and hit it with 24 v to turn it fast enough to start. What's your thoughts? Thank you in advance with any suggestions.
My bad , in my previous comment/question I didn't make it clear that I was going to check the valves as your video showed straight forward as I prefer info. I only was asking if infact you think that's my problem or dò think there is more to it? Thanks
Once you adjust the valves, with spark plug removed, spin the engine over with your hand slowly. You will see valves open and close, you are looking for an additional bump open on one of the valves. That will tell you if your compression release on the cam shaft is working. I'm filming a video today on a cub cadet rescue that will show exactly what I'm talking about. I also have another video showing how it works. The video I'm working on should be out this weekend, I have a ton of editing to do after filming.
@@RaleysSmallEngines Thanks for your prompt response good sir.
Your time and effort is appreciated.
This work is your livelihood and I assume a source of income for you..
I myself an insurance agent and owner of an insurance agency.
More importantly, I'm a country boy raised on a farm. Driving tractors at a young age , my Dads old Chevy C10 which I had to stand up to depress the clutch to shift the 3 on the tree and no pwr steering lol. Miss that old truck and even more I miss the Ole Man. It He was the best man I have ever known to date...the world was a better place with him it but part of me is glad he isn't here to see the shape of things in our country... forgive the tangent.
So your advise is then a service you could choose not to give for free...but the fact that you do so helps tip the scales in a positive direction in restoring my faith in the people of a country I love but find myself feeling a sense of embarrassment when I see a common mantra adopted of "what's in it for me" with a goverment that is liken to that of a circus event in which what we see ģoing on before us in the main arena is nothing like what the ad poster promised. And they don't seem to care that the audience ( the American constituency ) is watching them carry out the destruction of the nation.
I proudly served her for 8 yrs including 2 x in the PG and I would like to think that at least in spirit it wasn't all for nothing....
So, to that point I thank you for your part taking time to help others( simply because you choose to ..one of honorable traits which once made our country a better place
Ps. I give you my word , I will never send you such an over the top and lengthy comment.. thanks again..
My Kohler 7000 won't turn by hand, so I can't test the movement of the valves. I can't rotate it at all, seems frozen. Both spark plug chambers were dry and plugs looked clean gray as they should be, so it wasn't flooded with gas so I don't think it's hydrolocked. Starter spins just fine. Solenoid and battery also tested fine. What to do?
I got a mower with a new nikki carb. I did notice there appears to be gas in the oil. I'm not sure if the carb is still an issue or if they didn't do an oil change after changing the carb. This mower has the same symptoms as the mower in the video. I tried adjusting the valves 2 times. Once to 004 and another time to spec 005 and 006. Still don't wanna turn over. I checked and got the bump on bottom rocker. But i hear a clicking noise at the bump. Do you think the cam is bad? I hate to open the engine up for no reason.
I’m in the same boat but one of my push rod guides fell off. Hopefully that’ll fix my issue
@ryanschaffer5777 I ended up opening the engine up, and the cam was still good. Everything else looked good too. There was a little play where the counter weight attaches to the crankshaft. So I'm guessing that's the noise I was hearing. I put it all back together, and now it starts easy. I am wondering if I just did a crap job on valve adjustment. I have seen several videos that say adjustment should be done at top dead center. So I did that. I re-watched this video and realized he was adjusting the open valve while the other was closed. When I turned the engine to that point after adjustment at top dead center and they were loose. So I adjusted exactly how T-Bone did in the video, and now no problems.
Just replaced cam and now I have the bump, and adjusted the valves so many times but still won’t turn over, can’t there be any other reason for this?
Thanks
Is there any way of installing a manual compression release on the Briggs and starting engine ?
The only way would be to drill and tap a hole in from the top of the head, and fit a compression release valve to it.
How do you know the ones that don’t have a compression release
Will this fix the cam spring problem if it looks locked and won't start?
@Raley"s Small Engines
I'm not sure I understand the question.
There seems to be a 3 part fix. A new camshaft is one of them, but then another UA-camr has a video about installing the new cam with modifications.
You have to make sure the lever that goes into the cam slot is flush with the cam. If not file the lever to be flush with the cam, not catching slightly as the rod crosses over it. Then put an AC compressor O-ring on the outside of the weight, that way it keeps the weight from rocking as it is going around. The rocking adds more of a chance for the lever to cock its way up into the bottom of the rod while spinning as well. He showed the counter weight itself has about .o9o of rock of the weight on the little shaft it resides on; side to side motion. What's more promising he showed it with the O-ring installed and really looks good; like there is plenty of room for oil to still get between the O-ring and the shaft to allow oiling.
He's got over a year on his now, so there is hope for those of us with metal shards residing in the bottom of our oil pans...
I know you have made a decision by now. I'm thinking of just going in and taking the metal out and leaving the cam installed without the compression relief. Just using the hand method over the air inlet for now.
I won't post the video on another person's channel, but it is out there; just watched it. Happy mowing.
Your newest subscriber from Australia
Gday Mate! Wow !! Thank you so much for Subscribing!!
@@RaleysSmallEngines I’ve got the bell on .👊👊👊
maybe you can help me out im trying to get the piston conecting rod cap off and it has 2 looks like torx screws holding the rod cap on and i cant see it well enough to tell what sise they are and dont want to strip them out any help would be appriciated thanks
sorry i can't remember, sometimes a small mirror will help you see the bolts in a tight space. Thanks for watching
What if the bottom valve doesn't move at all?
Just blown my kobuta engine t1700hx can you help me find 1please im in baltimore
I'll stick with the factory settings to the valves they must be that way for a good reason.
Dont it have to be tdc to adjust valves?
No it doesn't, it can be done either way.
What's weird, two different sources, and two different determinations for which is intake & exhaust valves.
Theres One a couple videos back obviously doesn't realize he's calling top valve the intake.
I'll try to get that link in history.
Cheers
What is the issue when a craftsman v2 engine spins very fast???? I was using mower when suddenly a metal clicking/rattling started happening with the motor immediately stopping!!! Now when ya turn the motor over it spins very fast like there is not compression or like both spark plugs are removed!!!! Engine was running tip top until this happened!!! Got any suggestions for me???
Yes .... the valve seat in the head came out and is holding the valve open. I am doing a video on that exact problem this week. Including how to repair it for about $20 bucks.
,nice job thx great onfo
Glad it was helpful!
I don't have the little bump :( I just picked up lawn tractor with a B+S 21HP. Owner said blown engine. Won't start. I tried it and the starter just spun freely. The starter gear was obviously broken. So I paid the man and brought it home. Took the starter from another motor, charged the battery, and was a little stubborn, but started. Started a few times actually. I think I just got lucky because I can't start it again. Did the valve adjustment and still hard, or won't crank, at all.
No bump = bad cam shaft. Just got one in the shop this week same issue. Hopefully will have a cam shaft video soon. It's not a difficult repair. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned and when the parts come in I will get a video out as soon as I can.
@@RaleysSmallEngines I've ordered the camshaft. But I was able to start it, then adjusted the valves, now can't. Build date is 11/09 and I can tell someone's been in there before in it's 12 year life based on using sealer rather than a gasket. Is there a valve setting that can overcome the lack of the compression release that I messed up trying to fix it?
@@jeffflowers729 If the compression release is broken off the cam shaft valve adjustment will not help. When you tear down the engine you will find broken pieces of metal inside the crankcase that came off the cam. Be sure to clean the inside of that engine clean enough to eat off of. If you don't have a parts washer you can use brake cleaner and compressed air and/or rags.
@@RaleysSmallEngines thank you. For now I found a temporary fix. If you remove the air cleaner and cover the inlet with your palm to create a seal, it reduces the amount of air intake so less pressure and the engine will turn over. then pull your hand off and it starts.
@@jeffflowers729 Have you been running your mower ever since?
Asking for someone with a bunch of metal in the bottom of my oil pan...
Hi Mrs T
👋
Good Video, I got the same engine . My cam has the same bump with a good opened intake but my exhaust value opens about 1/8 of an inch , nothing like the intake. I was mowing and it started coughing , so I cut it off and parked it. What is wrong? , the value glide is not the problem ,I can push it all the way down with my fingers, the push rod is not bent. I think it is the lifter or the cam lobe, that is all I can figure out. I hate tearing down the engine. HELP..
Thanks for watching. Yes sir, that sounds like a lobe on the cam. I know it's sounds like a pain, but it's not a difficult job. Just a little time consuming getting everything clean and gaskets removed.
Mines problem is the fuel pump those engines don't need it im gonna put the battery under the seat and the fuel tank under the hood how it is on all my other mowers.
Mine idles on the first crank up and idles hi im sure it needs adjusted but any other crank ups the gas floods to the piston because those engines aren't made with fuel pumps someone added the fuel pump onto this engine i just bought for 40 dollars anyhow the fuel pump will be coming off for good and no more fuel tank under the seat.
I wouldn't be surprised if my valves need reset i seen someone used puddy instead of a gasket on the cover and looks like the wrong grade to so im gonna go over it all after a pressure washing.
At first my engine acted like it was a camshaft problem or compression release until i could hear the gas splashing around so when i took the spark plug out the gas poured out into the grass and dirt i l cranked it over awhile to blow the rest out then let it sit then put plug back in and it ran but needs adjusted and the exhaust smoke color is showing its getting to much fuel at once plus its old fuel so im glad mines not another bad camshaft cause they cost to much from briggs
also its harder to turn motor over
I can’t see it
must mean my camshaft is no good, no bump there
Let me get the world book out.... skuntch..... nope not there.
Nonetheless good video. I'll be looking for the "bump"
@@TheRustyRooster A new video I'm working on will have a new word for you to look up. LOL
@@RaleysSmallEngines deady to check it out