great video, I think you're the only one who's identified the POI issue with the SBE3. I just ordered one yesterday so I'll be sure to use your video if I have issues in patterning. Thanks!
Thank you for the compliment. Plenty have identified it, but few have explored how to correct it or have spent time in demonstrating what Benelli is doing to correct it. I am not the first guy to identify the fix, but I might be the first one to demonstrate how to perform the fix yourself. If you look back into the archives of the forums from about two decades ago, the SBE II had similar POI issues back in the early 00's when it was released, and some still report them patterning excessively high every once in a blue moon with the "last ditch" SBE II's produced in the 2017-2019 time frame (with the last of them recently being sold as the "limited" model with a solid stock, previously named the "American" models). The difference being now that so many more people have open platforms to complain about it and call the gun a POS out of frustration or dislike. Some have pontificated, incorrectly and contrary to physics I may add, that the flexing of the Comfortech stock is the culprit. This is not so, and the turning of the Barrel Stop Ring is the culprit. The vent rib intersects the bore axis at 16 yards, giving a true 60/40 pattern split at 30 yards, and a 70/30 split at 40 yards; more than serviceable. Thanks for the viewership. A better and more concise video will be uploaded some time soon.
POI issue with the SBE? Guess it can be an issue to some. My Super Nova and Super Vinci shoot the same. Your target is always above the bead so you can see what you are hitting and not covering it. Its nice!
Well done man! I didn't know this one but looking at my SBE3 I can see where Benelli probably adjusted that same ring when I sent it back to them a couple of years ago.
Thanks! It has not been an absolute fix for some guns, as I do see some reports of it not working, but a good majority of owners that have made this adjustment have been able to “fix” their POI issues.
Ive got one of the newer electric heat guns. It has a reasonably accurate temp setting so can set the temp above melting point for the red loc title,, 250c. Just another option for loosing ring. Thanks for sharing this info. Not really interested dealing with the manufacturer unless I had too.
I have been shooting a BE2 for 10 years and it shoots perfectly. I bought a BE3 2 yrs ago and let my son in law shoot my old BE2. Quickly found out I couldn't hit anything with it. The place I bought it from went out of business so I took it to a local gun store and they double shimmed it and said it was good. I shot it today and it shoots 18 in high with my turkey choke in and it shoots 8-10 in high with my duck choke in. I found this video and thought I would give it a try. My ring was loose and required no effort to turn. It was almost at the bottom anyway. Could tell no difference moving it down the rest of the way. I'm getting a new shotgun
I would recommend having Benelli work on the shotgun before giving up on it. It may require slight modification or a replacement barrel to shoot in spec (60/40-70/30). With the barrel stop ring all the way down, tension on the barrel ring via the barrel nut becomes more critical. Sinching it all the wal down by hand until it will go no further will torque the barrel ring down and potentially move the point of impact. I would suggest shooting the gun from a solid rest with loads you will use in the field at 4 distances with at minimum a modified choke: 16 yards - confirm POA/POI intersect 25 yards - evaluate pattern split. Between 20 and 30 yards with tighter chokes the disparity between POA/POI will be the most apparent and allow you to confirm whether or not it is within spec. 30 yards - evaluate pattern split. Should be little to no difference between the 25 and 30 yard pattern split. 40 yards - evaluate pattern split. Allows you to evaluate the pattern with measure against the shorter ranges. Remember that the sighting is intended to “lollypop” the target; i.e., bead under the bird. Holding the bead over the target will result in “high” patterns.
i played with mine quite a bit but i just tighten down the collar then put the mag tube cap on all the way release it one or 2 clicks and bring the collar to it and tighten the nut back on. great patterns. awesome video as always dude! sbe3 is still my favorite shotgun by far
Wreksterr i am going to, just don’t know when. It will be shorter and show the tools needed tp break the barrel stop ring free. It will be tutorial style and about 4 min long.
I just bought the SBE 3 in 20 gauge. It had the C shim installed, and it shoots a 60 - 40 pattern. Evidently the new models are better and can be corrected with shims.
It does appear to be true that both the 12ga and 20ga SBE 3's models have had a significantly reduced number of excessively high shooting examples. I will note however that adjusting drop and cast with shims is not mechanically changing the POA/POI (aka, the shotgun's Zero). It is simply accommodating for the shooter's body proportions and placing the dominant eye in line with the center axis of the bore. You should see only the bead in the center of your line of sight and none of the top of the rib when mounting the gun. If once the stock is dropped and cast for you the shotgun still shoots away from the point of aim with most loads, the barrel and or its interface the receiver/mag-tube will have to be mechanically corrected. Thanks for watching and for the comment. - Drake
I recently purchased a 12 gauge Super Black Eagle 3 and it shoots high and to the left of the target. How can I adjust the point of impact and shift it to the right?
Make sure that the drop and cast are set for you (when mounted you should see no rib, and the bead in the center of your vision). Make sure your mount is consistent and you are not placing the butt or comb differently as you shoot with a target focus. Closing your eyes on the mount and opening you should see the bead in the center of your peripheral vision and the gun pointed at the target. If after affirming that the gun is drop and cast for your body and that you are consistently mounting the gun it still if off, you can possibly adjust the vertical POI as I demonstrated in the video. There is not anything that really can be done from a user perspective at point to adjust the horizontal if most loads continue to pattern left. You would have to return it to Benelli USA for service.
Is there any negative side effects to having a gap between the nut and the barrel piece? For instance when you screwed it all the way down and your pattern was really low. I would think you would want some pressure on the barrel from the nut, right? Great video.
That is the intent of the Barrel Stop Ring, but not having it touch has not negatively affected my shotgun after 300 target and 50 hunting loads fired with it completely backed off for the purposes of tuning point of impact/pattern split. Essentially what you are allowing the barrel to do when you back off the Barrel Stop Ring is to flex downwards when secured to the frame with the barrel nut and when a cartridge fires. The vent-rib is regulated to meet the centerline of the bore at about 16 yards, which gives around a 60/40 to 70/30 pattern split at 25 and 30 yards. However, the barrel stop ring allows for a second point of contact for the barrel and a way to fine tune POI. If the stop ring is too far forward, the barrel nut can’t push the barrel ring down, and under firing the barrel can’t flex as much and is tuned to a higher POI than intended, a negative result of such an aggressive vent-rib angle. If the barrel ring is pushed too far down, the point of impact with drop too low. The happy medium is to have a 55/45 pattern split at 16, giving about a 60/40 to 65/35 pattern split at 25 to 35 yards, respectively. This is how the guns were intended to shoot, but something happened and Benelli didn’t get it corrected until early 2018; my guess is as good as yours as to why. Bottom line, if your SBE 3 shoots too high or you want to fine tune the gun for specific loads, this is your solution. One must keep in mind that not every load patterns the same, nor has the same POI. That’s why it is critical to pattern test shells before taking them to competition or after wild game. You owe it to yourself and the creatures to know your equipment’s performance parameters. Thanks for watching!
I gave this a try this weekend. I got it off using a heat gun but I can’t seem to get the threads clean enough to screw it farther down. I tried acetone but that wasn’t enough. I tried a wire wheel, took some finish off but helped a little. Still won’t go all the way down. Wondering how you got your threads clean enough. Looks like yours spins pretty freely in the video.
Dustin Hammarberg I still have to apply a good amount of force to move the ring, and I did not clean off the threads purposely so the ring would not back off under firing until I decide what I want it tuned to. If there is a significant amount of Loctite on the threads you need gone, heat it up and wipe it off while it’s liquid; acetone doesn’t work on Loctite.
I was reading some literature on this gun and the shooting high issue the other day. Some engineers have figured out the new and improved comfort tech stock is actually the issue causing the shooting high. It apparently flexes to much.
While that is a great poke/guess as to why the SBE 3 has high POI issues (particularly bad at its release, no so much now), it is not scientifically sound. The shot column leaves the bore prior to the stock flexing from the recoil impulse. Furthermore, the Comfortech 3 stock design flexes the bore downwards, compensating for muzzle rise as it dissipates recoil. So, i ask, how does a stock that flexes downward after the shot has left the barrel cause the shot to travel high? Hint: it can’t. There are a number of SBE II and SBE 3 models equipped with “fixed”/traditional stocks that shoot higher pattern splits than the intended 60/40 to 70/30. The problem is not in the stock. The fact of the matter is that the vent rib is high at the rear and regulated to meet the axis of the bore at 16 yards. This means that a shot pattern at 25 yards with a modified choke should be approximately a 60/40 split. As distance increases, and the shot spread and pellet drop does as well, this patter split is maintained. However, if the barrel stop ring is not set appropriately, it can stiffen or loosen the barrel harmonics, causing the pattern to travel high. I too have read all the guesses as to why the SBE 3 had trouble with high patterns being the stock, and they are all guesses. The engineers and firearm writers that have not analyzed the actual function of the stock and are simply reasoning out a hypothesis as fact without actually testing it. Prior to my adjustment of the barrel stop ring, I had recorded the firing of the SBE 3 with the heaviest turkey loads possible and also fired it from a bench with the same loads and no resistance on the buttstock (gun was allowed to freely recoil rearwards). The result was nearly identical pattern splits. I performed the same tests with steel duck loads. Nearly identical results. The stock is not the issue. It is the tuning of the barrel stop ring in combination with a high regulated vent rib.
I have had problems with my benelli m2 pattern 100 % high after a bunch of fiddling with it I tryd backing off the barrel ring and now it seems to be shooting 60 40 right were it should be
let us know if that fixes the problem permanently. Supposedly modern high-end shotgun barrels are like springs due to heat treat and steel types used and won't hold a "bend".
So from my understanding you wanna back the barrel nut down put the barrel on and the end cap then snug the barrel nut against the barrel ring and it should shoot about right? I read a forum that said the barrel nut should be snug with the barrel ring according to benelli
Drake, to lower the poi on the SBE3 you need to move the barrel ring forward, to raise the poi you need to move the barrel ring backwards? My barrel ring is one thread from the bottom of the treads on the magazine tube. Does small amounts of movement of the barrel ring make the poi change quite a bit?
You’ve got that backwards, move it forward towards the end of the tube to raise, backwards to lower. Small amounts of movement can make a difference. If you are not seeing results with this method have another shooter give it a go. To properly “zero” you should have POA/POI intersect at 16 yards and all further distances should be 60/40-70/30 pattern splits. If you struggle to make a change at all with more than one shooter and adjusting the barrel stop ring, it will have to be serviced by Benelli.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Great information in the video and my gun had always shot a little high. Just happened to be cleaning my gun before season and my ring spins effortlessly and I've never adjusted it before. Now I'm scared I've moved it out of place. What is "factory"? Just barely touching the barrel ring when tightened down?
@@Drblood6721 yes, typically these will ship with the barrel stop ring up against the barrel ring without the retention nut installed. Use blue locktite when you get it set where you want it to keep it from migrating. Some guns will tune to the ring being backed all the way off and the barrel nut torqued down hard. Just confirm your patterns at the range.
Hello from the UK Drake , great video buddy any issues with the gun a couple of years on with a higher shot count ? Looking to do this with my new SBE 3 , she’s shooting higher than I would like. Ive tried the shim kit and it does help but Im quite short in the neck and like to see some rib when I’m shooting. So dropping the stock does not really suit my gun fit or shooting style. Just wondering if the fix creates another issue with time ?
Hello there. No adverse effects experienced over the years and 1,500 rounds or so since I played with adjusting the barrel stop ring for POI shift with my example. Others’ experience may vary. Thanks for watching and the comment/question. - Drake
Had an email question to Benelli tech department about adjusting the barrel stop ring to correct the POI. If adjusted too much by some on else other that Benelli, they cannot guarantee the repair and if the barrel hanger breaks as a result of someone else doing any warranty work the warranty would be voided. About 5 years ago one of my hunting companions was next to me in a layout blind in Saskatchewan. He was always slow to set up and shoot. Right after I had emptied my magazine a gun barrel hit me in the nose. His barrel ring separated from the barrel and it fell over side ways into my nose. He sent the gun in and they either fixed it or replaced the whole barrel. I am sure the gun was out of warranty. but they came thru.
The high rib profile is designed to place the pattern at a 60/40 to 70/30 split, which some do not like. Once in a while the guns will shoot a little higher, but in general this is usually a mounting issue for the user instead of a mechanical issue or rib regulation. Thanks for watching. - Drake
@@AmericanArmsChannel yeah, i have owned a several benellis, they all shot high for me and got sold, i wont buy another. now i look for shotguns with flat ribs and my high POI issue is gone. mine were never 60/40 or 70/30 they were 100/0. lol
hello, I have a benelli SBE II and I noticed that with bird shooting the distribution is around 60/40 however when I shoot it with slugs these go up quite a bit, is there any reason why this could happen?
Good question. The short answer is that slugs and birdshot payloads behave very differently, so the same point of impact cannot be expected. A solid projectile in a smoothbore will never truly fly to the same point of impact as the center of a shot pattern. It may be close, but it can also vary wildly. A slug will create a different recoil impulse, flex to the barrel, and as a single projectile have a different flight characteristic than shot pellets. Point of impact of slug loads may also change from manufacturer, projectile design and diameter, and other components used. Additionally, the way in which you manage recoil can alter the point of impact of a projectile. This is not as noticeable typically at shorter ranges, but it is very noticeable when shooting long range or for groups with a precision rifle; consistency is everything. Much like how a rifle will have different points of impact with different loads, a shotgun is no exception. You would not expect a 30-06 to place 150gr 3,000 FPS PSP's to the same place as 200gr 2,500 FPS Ballistic Tips at 100 yards, would you? The same is carried to each firearm type and design. Some examples will be more accommodating of a greater swath of loadings, but these will be moreso an exception than the norm. Now, you could play with the barrel stop ring on your SBE II to "tune" your shotgun into placing the slug load you are using behind the beads. However, you will more than likely be changing where the shotgun will throw the center of shot patterns. If you are a dedicated slug gun hunter, this is not a worry, but if you are looking to have the versatility that most of us do with our scatterguns, my recommendation is to install some form of sights for slug use. The SBE II is drilled and tapped for a standard weaver 94 pattern rail mount which you can attach a scope, red dot sight, or other sighting method to. Additionally there are rib mounted "iron" sight kits and micro red dot mounting plates available, as well as saddle mounts if that is more your speed. I hope this answered your question and gave you some insight. Please let me know if you have any other questions. - Drake
You will need to get it hot enough to melt the thread locker and turn it off while it is still hot, otherwise it will not move. Make sure you remove the spring and round limited plug before attempting, otherwise you will damage them.
By adjusting the barrel stop ring you are adjusting the amount of pressure/tension the magazine end cap (also called the “barrel nut” colloquially) can place on the barrel ring. Tension rearward on the barrel ring places tension on the barrel causes different “harmonics”, as well as very minimally applying downward tension on the barrel. This results in a lowered POI, theoretically. This “trick” does not always work, and some examples of SBE 3 barrels have been reported to be incapable of receiving correction. There is record of the excessively high POI issue being present in some SBE II’s at that models release, but that issue was never as prevalent nor as drastic as the SBE 3’s has been.
I got a question. I loosen that barrel collar all the way down but when I put the nut back on to tighten barrel down it doesn’t sit on the collar n seems to still be tighten to same spot. (Small gap between collar and barrel) So now I’m starting to think how can turning the collar down make any difference when the barrel still sits in same position?
While the barrel ring will (mostly) stay in the same position when the stop ring is backed off and the barrel nut is fully tightened down, what is occurring during firing is barrel flex and harmonics. By adjusting or removing all tension from the barrel stop ring on the barrel ring, you are modifying how the barrel is "tuned". This adjustment will regulate how that barrel will throw a shot column. With the SBE 3 design, my best guess is that the combination of Vent-rib angle to axis of bore being set to intersect at about 16 yards and the stiffness/profile of the crio-treated barrel results in the high patterning assemblies when not tuned to that individual barrel's liking from the factory. I hope this answers your question. - Drake
If the barrel stop nut is moved rearward, will there be a gap between it and the barrel ring when fully assembled? Or do you tighten the barrel nut down a little extra to insure the barrel ring touches the barrel stop nut?
I have done it both ways and seen no negative impacts, so long as the barrel nut is always tightened down as far as it will go by hand when the stop ring is backed all the way off. Really, the position of the stop ring is determined by what you need to accomplish with adjusting the pattern POI. I have shot hundreds of rounds with the stop ring backed all the way off (made the gun shoot 45/55 to 50/50 patterns) and experienced no inconsistency in patterns nor damage to the barrel ring. I hope this helps clarify and answer your question.
@@AmericanArmsChannel yes, thanks. I was concerned about the barrel slamming into the stop ring upon recoil and yielding either inconsistent patterns or possible damage to the gun. Thanks!
As long as the barrel nut/magazine end cap is properly installed, the barrel should not shift forward or back during firing. Benelli will most likely claim that you risk damage to the barrel ring or some other line of reasoning that would void the warranty, but I am personally not concerned with that seeing how over the course of 3 years and 5k+ shells the firearm has experienced no failures requiring service. The way in which Benelli constructs its barrels gives me high confidence in there being no issues with that part set up in that way over the long haul (*murphy's law can and will apply however, so evaluate and weigh the risk for yourself and your needs). I think it is still ideal to have the barrel stop ring contact the barrel ring, but if you can only achieve the desired patterns with it backed totally off, then I would not worry about it too much.
My understanding is that this is only applicable to the 12 gauge 3" and 3-1/2" Supermagnum models of the SBE 3. The 20ga and 28ga variants do not use the Barrel Stop Ring in their construction. In my research I have not been able to find a mechanical solution to bringing down the point of impact for the 20 and 28 gauge variants. If you do not want to send the gun back to Benelli for service, or the POI is not too agregious (I.E., it is shooting 80/20 patterns or less) then you can install a larger bead and trick your eye into floating the bird higher over the barrel. Sometimes removing the bead entirely can also be a viable path to eliminating the issue of high patterning and the trouble of trying to aim and compensate for the pattern. Effectively, removing the bead takes away a focal point for your eyes allowing for a true target focus shooting method. There is always a number of ways to skin a cat, but I hope a few of the above suggestions will help you. Please let me know if you have any further questions. - Drake
@@matthewmorris3997 yes, the 3” 12, 3” 20, and 3” 28 gauge SBE 3’s all utilize an anodized aluminum receiver cover for the barrel extension, just as the Ethos does. This is the standard construction.
Any ideas how to adjust POI in the Benelli Nova? There’s no stock shims and no ring on the tube like the SBE. Maybe a higher bead? I don’t know how I’d go about installing that or what I need to get
Unfortunately, I have no significant experience with the Nova/Super Nova at this time and can't recommend a definitive fix regarding high patterning due to a mechanical issue. The Nova, like most all Benelli's, is regulated to fire a 60/40 to 70/30 pattern split. If your example is producing these patterns it is in spec and my recommendation is to take the easier path of learning to float the bird on the bead and not covering it. If it is shooting higher patterns that are out of spec (75/25 to 100/0) when you know for sure sighting is proper, then you will need to send the gun in to Benelli on warranty for adjustment or replacement of the barrel (again, if it is truly shooting high). The best thing to do is to solidly rest the shotgun and sight the pattern board with the center of the target just above the bead and none of the top of the vent rib visible to you. I have seen a number of shooters claim a "high-shooting" gun due to poor mounting practices or a gun that does not fit them properly. The bead on the Nova series is fairly large, so addition of an even larger bead may be hard to source and may not do anything for you. However, Tru-viz sighting systems does offer larger beads that fit the Nova and Super Nova. Since the Nova has a stock that is part of its receiver and can't be adjusted for drop or cast, if you find the high patterning is due to fit, most times adding a thicker butt pad or a stock boot will push the comb out from your face and place your line of sight straight down the rib and not above it. This is not a perfect fix, but many times shooters that struggle with a high-shooting gun when in the field or on the range have a gun that is short-stocked for them. I hope the above information helps. Thanks for the viewership and the comment. - Drake
@@AmericanArmsChannel thanks for responding with good information. I appreciate your time a lot. When I’m shooting clays I don’t even see the bead. I just focus on the target and let it rip. Maybe that’s improper shooting technique? When patterning my gun to get ready for a card shoot is when I realized it patterns way high. I was stacking the beads and making an 8 because I thought that’s what I was supposed to do. When time permits I’ll shoot again and line the beads up and see what happens. I really have to push my head down on the stock to get my eye low enough for this, like my cheek bone tight to the comb of my stock. I’d probably have to add 2 inches to my LOP to get the bead alignment correct without feeling like I’m really pushing my face into the stock. I have a thicker recoil pad on order so when it gets delivered I’ll put it on to lengthen some and then work on fine tuning my head position and mount. Thanks again for your time. You do great videos with great information and I appreciate the work you put in.
No, you are wing shooting correctly. The bead is for reference of where the end of the barrel is, not aiming. If you are stacking the mid-bead and the bead, that entirely explains why you are shooting high. The longer butt pad and a slight change in gun-mount will help you greatly. Thanks for the praise. Happy to help.
@@AmericanArmsChannel I don’t even see the bead for barrel reference purposes. When I mount I just use the bead to ensure consistent mounting. With my level of shooting experience now I don’t even need to do that. Honestly if the bead came off of my gun I probably wouldn’t even notice other than checking my mount.
Then you are wing-shooting "correctly". It sounds like you are only experiencing an issue when you are aiming the shotgun and sighting it like a rifle with the mid-bead and bead acting as your rear and front sight. Even so, simply adjusting your sight picture in those instances will place your patterns' point of impact inline with your expectations. Removing both beads is a viable option for advanced and new shooters alike. It's all personal preference and what works best for the individual. I have used small, large, and no beads and find myself performing well with small plain or fiber-optic beads fairly regularly, but do well regardless of bead type and style if the gun fits me (which is arguably the most important factor).
I have an sbe2. It Shoots 60:40 with lead 80:20 with steel. My ring is about 1 thread from being bottomed out. I have adapted shooting it this way. Would you adjust yours shooting like this ?
I found that lead and bismuth loads shoot extremely close and steel is not much different with my SBE3. If your barrel stop ring is backed all the way off on your SBE II, there is not much other adjustment you can make without replacing the barrel and giving that a try. I will make sure to add that it is important to make sure the gun is shimmed to fit you, or that when aiming for patterns you see none of the top of the vent rib and only see the bead. I have solved a couple of shooter's high shooting shotgun issued by making sure the gun either fit them or that their mount gave them the proper sighting plane.
Have you heard of any 2020 models and newer have this POA issue? Looking at getting a sbe3 b.e.s.t model but not if there shooting 70/30 or 80/20 from the factory. To me this is a quality control issue.
SBE’s (like most Benelli models) are regulated to pattern 60/40 - 70/30. So if you don’t want that pattern hight or floating the target I don’t recommend you buy a Benelli. There are some reports of current production examples exhibiting the same excessively high patterning issue, but it seems to be less so than originally in ‘17 and ‘18. There are reports that the 20ga models can suffer from the same problem though, so it is an inherent issue with production method and design that Benelli has not quite nailed down. Other than this, the guns are rock solid in all other categories. To me, It would not stop me from purchasing another example due to the fact that I know I can adjust the firearm back into spec.
Do you get any check slap from your SBE3? My SX4 is much softer shooting than my SBE3. I don’t get any cheek slap with my Sx4 either. I have adjusted the shims and it really doesn’t help. I am going to have to attempt this fix as well because mine is shooting 90/10 at best with the D shim installed.
No, cheek slap is not an issue for me with the SBE3. It sounds like the SX4 fits you better than the SBE 3. I am going to guess the SBE 3 stock is too long for you. Buy the shorter pad and try it like that. Also, load for load you will feel a difference. I experience more slap with the SX4 because it does not fit me and it has no cusion on the comb of the stock. The comb piece on the SBE 3 is very cushy and should not be slapping or punching you, especially if you have your face on the gun. Again, it sounds like your SBE 3 is not fitted to you. If the stock is too long and you have the D shim installed, I am willing to bet you are both not seating the gun into your shoulder properly due to it being a little long and you are lifting your head to see down the vent rib to the bead , which is causing “cheek slap”. Further, the SX4 can have some naturally softer shooting qualities than the SBE 3 since it is both heavier and gas operated. But again, fit is a big part of perceived recoil.
@@AmericanArmsChannel you are the best source of information on the super black eagle on the internet. There is a couple other guys that have some great info too. I went to bed last night hating my SBE3 and regretting my purchase. This afternoon it’s a totally different gun. The problem was it was out of spec for me and I had to attempt to shim the POI down. When I did that it caused a figment issue. I went to a D shim and it was still shooting high and then it caused a pitch issue causing recoil to come up into my face. I adjusted my barrel ring in and put an A shim on to try and help recoil come straight back. And I’ll be darned if it didn’t completely change my gun experience. POI is exactly where I want it (I think) end recoil is so much better because the comb and pitch is more suitable for me with the A shim. I say I think because I do need to pattern it some more on a larger piece of paper. It’s raining and I was pressed for time so I only had time to put a small card board box at 20 yards and try it. It looks so promising. I would love to explore a different recoil pad with the correct pitch for me even. I think then I would have it dialed in exactly where I need it. I just wanted to come back and say THANK YOU for your response and videos. You was the ultimate source of the information I needed to get my gun dialed in for me without having to send it off for a month. One thing I will add incase it could help someone else. I used a drop a hair dryer to get the barrel ring adjustment just warm. Then I used a rubber strap wrench to dial it in just a touch. It did not mar the finish at all and worked for me. Thanks again. 🙏
I am not sure which model of Upland or Light that you are referencing, but I assume you mean the A400. I would say that both are going to perform equally being the same action and gas system. I would say you will need to simply decide whether you want simple and rugged (Light version) or fancy and well finished (Upland version). Я не уверен, какую модель Upland или Light вы имеете в виду, но я предполагаю, что вы имеете в виду A400. Я бы сказал, что оба будут работать одинаково, имея одинаковую систему действия и газа. Я бы сказал, что вам нужно будет просто решить, хотите ли вы простой и прочный (версия Light) или модный и хорошо законченный (версия Upland).
thumper49802 once you have it where you want it with the loads you want, mark the threads at its bottom. Roll the ring up past it’s desired set, then use red-loctite on the threads and move the ring back into place at the mark. I would not try to stake it, as that will require damaging the ring and tube should it ever need to be adjusted again in the future.
@@AmericanArmsChannel yep, casted for right handed shooter 65 mm drop. It shoots left off the bench. It’s not the end of the world with bird shot but it’s real bad with slugs. 7 inches high and 5 inches left at 50 yards.
@@toddbunnett640 have you tried adjusting the barrel stop ring yet? Some guys have found the left POI was corrected along with the high POI when tuning the Barrel Stop Ring.
@@toddbunnett640 give it a try and see what happens. If that does not resolve the issue, I would ring customer service and send it in to Benelli. By a lot of accounts right now, Benelli has had a quick turnaround for service work
That will only fit the shotgun to the shooter and place line of sight straight down the vent-rib, as it should be. Actual adjustment of the POI is through tuning the barrel stop ring as demonstrated.
@@rickdaniels6741 sometimes the adjustment of the barrel stop ring will also adjust the horizontal axis as well. This is not always the case, but it can occur. I am still unaware of a fix for that specific POI issue, but if I discover one I will share the fix.
Well, no. Making adjustments to the position of the ring will not affect the function of the firearm. The barrel stop ring only regulates the point of impact in relation to the point of aim. It has nothing to do with the cyclic operation of the shotgun.
Ideally, yes, you would use a rest to test and adjust POI. This video was just a simple demonstration of how to go about adjusting the POI on the SBE 3 (also works on all Super-90 based Benelli models that use a Barrel Stop Ring). Why would you have a hard time trusting it? Part of its designed function is to help tune POI. Benelli makes this adjustment at their service department when adjusting SBE’s that need it.
When you have the nut that holds the barrel tight against the barrel ring how can the lower ring make any difference? You have to have the nut tight against the barrel ring to make sure that there is no play against the back of the chamber. How can that lower ring change anything?
Adjusting the tension/position of the barrel stop ring adjusts the tension placed on the barrel ring buy the barrel nut/magazine cap. this difference in tension and the resulting barrel whip/harmonics is what is adjusting the POI. The SBE is barrel has a vent rib sighting plane regulated to intersect the barrel axis at 16 yards. This, when combined with a properly tuned barrel stop ring, sets the general pattern splits at 25 to 50 yards at 60/40 to 70/30. The barrel stop ring does not regulated the lock-up of the bolt lugs into their recesses on the barrel extension nor does it affect head space. If you were to adjust the stop ring so that barrel extension is not flush with the rear of the receiver, you will not have sufficient tension on the bolt group to feed, chamber, and lock-up on a shell.
Once you get the ring set where you want it will you use lock tight to keep it in the correct position? If you do not lock tight the ring do you feel it will n cause any movement of the ring witch could cause problems in the future? @@AmericanArmsChannel
@@jimrogers2468 Yes. Once tuned for the pattern split you desire you should mark the position of the barrel stop ring on the magazine tube's end threads with a sharpie or other marker. Screw the ring bellow or above its tuned point that you just marked, apply blue or red loctite to the threads in that position, then return to its marked point. I would recommend using the lower temp/lower strength blue loctite as it will hold the ring firmly, but allow for easy heating and turning of the ring in the future should adjusting the POI again be desired. I have not used loctite on my example as I have been playing with it a bit over the past year, but at this point I will be doing that as I am happy with where I have tuned it. I have seen minimal if any turning, and turning has only occurred when the barrel nut has not been cinched tight. Honestly, purple loctite would probably work just fine for the purpose of keeping the barrel stop ring where desired. Should a barrel stop ring work itself loose from firing and disassembly/reassembly, I can guarantee it will work down the threads and not up (there is a barrel ring in its way after all). The worse thing that can happen in that scenario is the patterns throwing consistently low or becoming inconsistent if the barrel nut loosens as well; the latter of which should not happen if you are applying ample tension to the barrel nut when assembling the firearm. In general, I find people have placed far more thought into the correction process and issue of a high shooting Super-90 series Benelli (M1 Super 90/Black Eagle, Super Black Eagle, SBE II, SBE 3, etc.) than is necessary. The Point of Impact is regulated by the Vent-Rib Sighting plane and the barrel stop ring on the design. The barrel stop ring is a simple component, and despite its name, it does little to actually "stop" the barrel ring and more so to adjust its tuning when the shotguns are assembled. I have literally fired around 600 shells of all power levels through my SBE 3 with the ring COMPLETELY backed off from the barrel ring with no adverse effects or operational issue outside of a greatly lowered pattern split. I hope this all helps you.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Thank you for your reply. I am having a hard time understanding what you are saying with the barrel stop ring and the threaded cap on top of the magazine. When you are talking about the lugs locking up, are you saying they lock up from the front of the bolt into the barrel extension, and they lock into area right behind the shell? So once the threaded magazine cap is tightened down on the barrel ring the POI can only be adjusted by either screwing in or out of the barrel stop ring. After POI adjustments are set will the barrel stop ring hold it's position without lock tight?
@@jimrogers2468 I think the confusion is coming from the terminology here. The barrel ring is the ring that comes down from the barrel and allows the barrel to be secured to the magazine tube and receiver via the "Magazine Cap" (Benelli's term for the part, what I was calling the "barrel nut"). The Barrel Stop Ring (Benelli's full name for the part is the "Magazine Tube Barrel Stop Ring) is the ring which sits bellow the magazine tube bellow the barrel ring when assembled, as seen in the video. When fully assembled, the barrel stop ring does nothing more than control the position of the barrel ring and the tension the "Magazine Cap" (barrel nut) applies to it. This is how it can be used to adjust point of impact Vertically. One of the most efficient methods to adjust the ring is to do as you see me do in the video; remove the handguard from the equation, adjusting the barrel stop ring in and out prior to tightening down the Magazine Cap. The barrel stop ring can hold its position from tension alone after adjustment, but thread sealer or loctite does need to be utilized to insure it will not move. Mine doesn't move a lot because the threads have loctite residue on them, but if they were clean it would. Regarding the lock-up of the action, you had asked if it would affect that. My reply was an attempt to detail that no, it would not harm the function of the action. And, that only if you positioned the Barrel Stop Ring too far forward would you end up in a situation where the action would not function. It was a theoretical. Sorry for the confusion. I hope this helps clear it up.
The "standard" is a 30" circle at 30 and 40 yards. I however prefer to pattern at 25, 30, and 40 yards with my 12, 16, and 28 gauges as those are the distances I most commonly kill birds at. When patterning my 10 gauge, I typically look at 40, 45, 50, and 60 yard patterns, as the days I will be using the 10 I will most likely be taking those longer shots. My advice is to always pattern at the distances you anticipate most commonly shooting birds at. Just as there is no "do-it-all" choke constriction, bore size, load type, or barrel length with shotguns, there is no "shoot at this distance and you know how it does at all ranges" distance to pattern at. I also typically test in 5 yard increments to see how the pattern opens over distance with a specific load and choke combo. For most shooters, however, patterning at 20, 30 and 40 yards will give them the best idea of what their gun/choke/load combo can do for them.
Yes. The method to lower point of impact on the SBE II is identical to that of the SBE 3. Practically all of the Super-90 derivatives will have a barrel stop ring like you see in this video.
I don’t know of any DIY solutions for the Vinci if it shoots out of spec. The Vinci is a completely unique design and has little in common with traditional shotgun design. Should I discover a process to lower POI, I will post a video detailing it. If your Vinci or SV is suffering from an out of spec POI, I would send it to Benelli for service.
American Arms Channel Thanks. It does suffer from out of place POI but I bought it used and it’s out of warranty. But I got myself the Aimpoint S1 to tackle the problem. Even though I would prefer just basic rail and bead.
Meh, you’re not going to hurt it. And the gun already works, it’s just the barrel rings are not always regulated properly for 60/40 patterns. The SBE II had the same issues.
The SX4 is a great shotgun in my experience. If it were not for the potential of encountering this issue on the SBE3 there would be little to nothing to criticize it over. Let's not forget though the SX4's propensity to loose bolt handles and beat itself loose with a steady diet of heavy hunting loads. lol. Still a great gun if you take care of it. Don't care for the recoil impulse though.
It would behoove them to do so, but apparently it has not cost them enough in RMA's to justify that expense at the corporate level. The gun is dead-ass reliable, but some production method, QA/QC, or design element needs to be tweaked to assure consistent production.
Adjusting cast and drop only aligns the line of sight to the user's eye, it does not adjust the Point of Impact or "Zero" of the shotgun in relation to the true point of aim. In other words, fitting the gun to a user via the shims does not solve the underlying issue if the shotgun does not fire to, or close to, the point of aim. For a loose analogy, would you tell a rifle shooter to add or adjust a cheek riser on their rifle instead of adjusting the scope turrets when their grouping do not meet their point of aim? Of course not, because that doesn't solve the problem. The bottom line is, adjusting a shotgun for drop, cast, and length of pull to better fit the shooter will ensure better shooting overall and to align the shooter's eye with the axis of the bore when shouldering; effectively this ensures the gun "points where you look" without having to move your body to place the eye in line with the bead and thus the target. It does not impact the actual point of impact vs the point of aim when you are firing the shotgun on a stationary target. Thanks for watching. - Drake
I had one of these things. What an over priced piece of shit. Sent it back to the factory twice and they never got it right. They know it’s an issue and so does a lot of other people because they are worth much on the used market.
@@avidwaterfowler7522 some guns were worse than others. Mine has shot high until I made this modification or used a taller bead to trick my eye. I don’t know why Benelli blundered the corrections post release of the gun so much, but my understanding is that the issues have been resolved for a year or more now. They should have handled it much better than they did, and I suspect corporate heads decided they preferred to ignore and fix the issues quietly than own up to the egg on their face and fix it with integrity and honesty. Unfortunately, this is the nature of many manufacturers. It sucks that you did not have success with their service department, I know the feeling from my Browning experience. From a reliability standpoint though, the SBE 3 has had no issues, so there is that positive mark for the guns. I have no clue as to what was causing the SBE 3’s to shoot left, but that also is a known issue with some early guns, which was exasperated by certain loads. The SBE II were found to also have POI issues for a period of time after their release, but I believe it was not as widely known or talked about due to talk about it not being anywhere near as rampant as it is today across the internet forums. You have to keep in mind that was the 2002-2008 era pre-UA-cam so it is no surprise it was not as widely discussed or known to have been an issue. I don’t know that the issue has affected the second hand market for the SBE 3, as they are consistently listed and sold for about $1,300 to $1,550 depending on model and location. That is no different than what used SBE II’s sold for around 1 to 3 years before the SBE 3 release.
American Arms Channel I agree. With a retail of 2 grand and standard street price of $1800, my expectations are high. I have owned three Benelli products and two were duds. I will most likely never buy another. Browning’s customer service has always been known to be slow and not timely. However, I have had less issues with any browning than Benelli. It is weird that beretta customer service is awesome even though they own Benelli..... On another hand, if you have reliability issues with your gold 10, let me know there is two areas that you can clean up with 1000 grit sand paper and oil to make the gun 100 percent.
Avid Waterfowler that sucks you didn’t have a great experience with a few benelli products. I own 2 and both have been exceptional with only the higher POI with the SBE 3 being a, in my opinion and personal outlook, a slight inconvenience. I will be buying more Benelli products in the future and will take one of their products over any competitor offered at the same price-point, every time, based on my experience. However, I will not say the same regarding a Browning product. Being unbelievably slow and telling your customers on your website to send their problem guns to “certified service centers” if they want speedier turn-around, being unwilling to answer turn around time questions and be responsive to a concerned customer speaks volumes to how much they value their business and products performance. What Benelli does says to me they are embarrassed, but will try to get you taken care of. What Browning does tells me they truly don’t care and are incompetent. Unfortunately, in the world of manufacturing, it seems the instances of service departments being either incompetent or incapable of resolving a products issues after multiple tries is the common theme. Finding a manufacturer that does not is to be sounded from the roof tops and supported greatly. On the note about the Gold 10, I finally got everything ironed out on it. I will be including all of that information in my final review, and maybe a separate video on specifically the modifications, but it took a deep evaluation of the shotgun and a solid list of corrections to make it run: - shim fore-end to properly seat barrel in receiver when installed - remove rough tool marks from feed ramp and polish - add a nested spring to the extractor to increase tension and improve extraction - polish chamber to improve extraction (needs to be honed still) - Turn down internal portion of receiver that was dragging on the bolt carrier - replace action spring and receiver extension tube with SureCycle kit - add tension to shell stop catch/latch spring by installing a rubber spacer in the recess for the shell catch/latch spring, creating proper tension and height to work reliably. - replace magazine spring with higher tension one by Wolff Springs (12ga extra power spring works fine and increases feed reliability) I appreciate the offer to help with getting the Gold 10 to run though!
To each their own. The guns function reliably and are very durable. The high point of impact issue is present in a significant number of examples, but with a simple fix such as this and properly setting drop and cast for the shooter being readily done for those who are competent with hand tools, it will not be a deal killer for many. The "Benelli Click" has been addressed in its entirety with the Ethos/Raffaello and SBE 3 series with the bolt close assist detent and spring; so, I'm not really sure what you mean.
Done this exact thing to 3 sbe3 now and it has completely resolved the high patterns!
great video, I think you're the only one who's identified the POI issue with the SBE3. I just ordered one yesterday so I'll be sure to use your video if I have issues in patterning. Thanks!
Thank you for the compliment. Plenty have identified it, but few have explored how to correct it or have spent time in demonstrating what Benelli is doing to correct it. I am not the first guy to identify the fix, but I might be the first one to demonstrate how to perform the fix yourself.
If you look back into the archives of the forums from about two decades ago, the SBE II had similar POI issues back in the early 00's when it was released, and some still report them patterning excessively high every once in a blue moon with the "last ditch" SBE II's produced in the 2017-2019 time frame (with the last of them recently being sold as the "limited" model with a solid stock, previously named the "American" models). The difference being now that so many more people have open platforms to complain about it and call the gun a POS out of frustration or dislike. Some have pontificated, incorrectly and contrary to physics I may add, that the flexing of the Comfortech stock is the culprit. This is not so, and the turning of the Barrel Stop Ring is the culprit. The vent rib intersects the bore axis at 16 yards, giving a true 60/40 pattern split at 30 yards, and a 70/30 split at 40 yards; more than serviceable.
Thanks for the viewership. A better and more concise video will be uploaded some time soon.
POI issue with the SBE? Guess it can be an issue to some. My Super Nova and Super Vinci shoot the same. Your target is always above the bead so you can see what you are hitting and not covering it. Its nice!
I sent mine to benelli and this exactly what they did to mine at their repair shop.
Well done man! I didn't know this one but looking at my SBE3 I can see where Benelli probably adjusted that same ring when I sent it back to them a couple of years ago.
Thanks! It has not been an absolute fix for some guns, as I do see some reports of it not working, but a good majority of owners that have made this adjustment have been able to “fix” their POI issues.
I sent mine to them and thats exactly what they did to mine.
This video should get at least 10k likes thanks so much
I agree 100%. This channel and video has been so much help to me.
This was a great video, thanks!! Well done and information I have never seen!
Ive got one of the newer electric heat guns. It has a reasonably accurate temp setting so can set the temp above melting point for the red loc title,, 250c. Just another option for loosing ring.
Thanks for sharing this info. Not really interested dealing with the manufacturer unless I had too.
Thanks a lot!!! It was only issue stoping me from purchasing sbe3.
Go with a400 xtreme plus. Much better imo
I have been shooting a BE2 for 10 years and it shoots perfectly. I bought a BE3 2 yrs ago and let my son in law shoot my old BE2. Quickly found out I couldn't hit anything with it. The place I bought it from went out of business so I took it to a local gun store and they double shimmed it and said it was good. I shot it today and it shoots 18 in high with my turkey choke in and it shoots 8-10 in high with my duck choke in. I found this video and thought I would give it a try. My ring was loose and required no effort to turn. It was almost at the bottom anyway. Could tell no difference moving it down the rest of the way. I'm getting a new shotgun
I would recommend having Benelli work on the shotgun before giving up on it. It may require slight modification or a replacement barrel to shoot in spec (60/40-70/30).
With the barrel stop ring all the way down, tension on the barrel ring via the barrel nut becomes more critical. Sinching it all the wal down by hand until it will go no further will torque the barrel ring down and potentially move the point of impact. I would suggest shooting the gun from a solid rest with loads you will use in the field at 4 distances with at minimum a modified choke:
16 yards - confirm POA/POI intersect
25 yards - evaluate pattern split. Between 20 and 30 yards with tighter chokes the disparity between POA/POI will be the most apparent and allow you to confirm whether or not it is within spec.
30 yards - evaluate pattern split. Should be little to no difference between the 25 and 30 yard pattern split.
40 yards - evaluate pattern split. Allows you to evaluate the pattern with measure against the shorter ranges.
Remember that the sighting is intended to “lollypop” the target; i.e., bead under the bird. Holding the bead over the target will result in “high” patterns.
It worked. Great tip!
i played with mine quite a bit but i just tighten down the collar then put the mag tube cap on all the way release it one or 2 clicks and bring the collar to it and tighten the nut back on. great patterns. awesome video as always dude! sbe3 is still my favorite shotgun by far
Thanks. I’m really not happy with the quality of this video. I’m going to create a shorter version that will be 4 min tops.
American Arms Channel can you please make a new one, I will pick my BE3 on Thursday and if it shoots high I want to use your video to correct it!
Wreksterr i am going to, just don’t know when. It will be shorter and show the tools needed tp break the barrel stop ring free. It will be tutorial style and about 4 min long.
@@AmericanArmsChannel we are waiting
I just bought the SBE 3 in 20 gauge. It had the C shim installed, and it shoots a 60 - 40 pattern. Evidently the new models are better and can be corrected with shims.
It does appear to be true that both the 12ga and 20ga SBE 3's models have had a significantly reduced number of excessively high shooting examples.
I will note however that adjusting drop and cast with shims is not mechanically changing the POA/POI (aka, the shotgun's Zero). It is simply accommodating for the shooter's body proportions and placing the dominant eye in line with the center axis of the bore. You should see only the bead in the center of your line of sight and none of the top of the rib when mounting the gun. If once the stock is dropped and cast for you the shotgun still shoots away from the point of aim with most loads, the barrel and or its interface the receiver/mag-tube will have to be mechanically corrected.
Thanks for watching and for the comment.
- Drake
Hell yeah! Thank you!
I recently purchased a 12 gauge Super Black Eagle 3 and it shoots high and to the left of the target. How can I adjust the point of impact and shift it to the right?
Make sure that the drop and cast are set for you (when mounted you should see no rib, and the bead in the center of your vision). Make sure your mount is consistent and you are not placing the butt or comb differently as you shoot with a target focus. Closing your eyes on the mount and opening you should see the bead in the center of your peripheral vision and the gun pointed at the target.
If after affirming that the gun is drop and cast for your body and that you are consistently mounting the gun it still if off, you can possibly adjust the vertical POI as I demonstrated in the video. There is not anything that really can be done from a user perspective at point to adjust the horizontal if most loads continue to pattern left. You would have to return it to Benelli USA for service.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Thank you for responding and clarifying the matter
Is there any negative side effects to having a gap between the nut and the barrel piece? For instance when you screwed it all the way down and your pattern was really low. I would think you would want some pressure on the barrel from the nut, right? Great video.
That is the intent of the Barrel Stop Ring, but not having it touch has not negatively affected my shotgun after 300 target and 50 hunting loads fired with it completely backed off for the purposes of tuning point of impact/pattern split.
Essentially what you are allowing the barrel to do when you back off the Barrel Stop Ring is to flex downwards when secured to the frame with the barrel nut and when a cartridge fires. The vent-rib is regulated to meet the centerline of the bore at about 16 yards, which gives around a 60/40 to 70/30 pattern split at 25 and 30 yards. However, the barrel stop ring allows for a second point of contact for the barrel and a way to fine tune POI. If the stop ring is too far forward, the barrel nut can’t push the barrel ring down, and under firing the barrel can’t flex as much and is tuned to a higher POI than intended, a negative result of such an aggressive vent-rib angle. If the barrel ring is pushed too far down, the point of impact with drop too low. The happy medium is to have a 55/45 pattern split at 16, giving about a 60/40 to 65/35 pattern split at 25 to 35 yards, respectively. This is how the guns were intended to shoot, but something happened and Benelli didn’t get it corrected until early 2018; my guess is as good as yours as to why.
Bottom line, if your SBE 3 shoots too high or you want to fine tune the gun for specific loads, this is your solution. One must keep in mind that not every load patterns the same, nor has the same POI. That’s why it is critical to pattern test shells before taking them to competition or after wild game. You owe it to yourself and the creatures to know your equipment’s performance parameters.
Thanks for watching!
American Arms Channel thanks! That is exactly what I was asking. Extremely helpful!
I gave this a try this weekend. I got it off using a heat gun but I can’t seem to get the threads clean enough to screw it farther down. I tried acetone but that wasn’t enough. I tried a wire wheel, took some finish off but helped a little. Still won’t go all the way down. Wondering how you got your threads clean enough. Looks like yours spins pretty freely in the video.
Dustin Hammarberg I still have to apply a good amount of force to move the ring, and I did not clean off the threads purposely so the ring would not back off under firing until I decide what I want it tuned to. If there is a significant amount of Loctite on the threads you need gone, heat it up and wipe it off while it’s liquid; acetone doesn’t work on Loctite.
Use breaks cleaner or degreaser to break the loctite . Got mine loose after soaking for about 5 minutes
Good tip. Glad that worked for you.
- Drake
I was reading some literature on this gun and the shooting high issue the other day. Some engineers have figured out the new and improved comfort tech stock is actually the issue causing the shooting high. It apparently flexes to much.
While that is a great poke/guess as to why the SBE 3 has high POI issues (particularly bad at its release, no so much now), it is not scientifically sound. The shot column leaves the bore prior to the stock flexing from the recoil impulse. Furthermore, the Comfortech 3 stock design flexes the bore downwards, compensating for muzzle rise as it dissipates recoil. So, i ask, how does a stock that flexes downward after the shot has left the barrel cause the shot to travel high? Hint: it can’t.
There are a number of SBE II and SBE 3 models equipped with “fixed”/traditional stocks that shoot higher pattern splits than the intended 60/40 to 70/30. The problem is not in the stock.
The fact of the matter is that the vent rib is high at the rear and regulated to meet the axis of the bore at 16 yards. This means that a shot pattern at 25 yards with a modified choke should be approximately a 60/40 split. As distance increases, and the shot spread and pellet drop does as well, this patter split is maintained. However, if the barrel stop ring is not set appropriately, it can stiffen or loosen the barrel harmonics, causing the pattern to travel high.
I too have read all the guesses as to why the SBE 3 had trouble with high patterns being the stock, and they are all guesses. The engineers and firearm writers that have not analyzed the actual function of the stock and are simply reasoning out a hypothesis as fact without actually testing it. Prior to my adjustment of the barrel stop ring, I had recorded the firing of the SBE 3 with the heaviest turkey loads possible and also fired it from a bench with the same loads and no resistance on the buttstock (gun was allowed to freely recoil rearwards). The result was nearly identical pattern splits. I performed the same tests with steel duck loads. Nearly identical results. The stock is not the issue. It is the tuning of the barrel stop ring in combination with a high regulated vent rib.
I have had problems with my benelli m2 pattern 100 % high after a bunch of fiddling with it I tryd backing off the barrel ring and now it seems to be shooting 60 40 right were it should be
I just took the barrel off and bent it down a little.
let us know if that fixes the problem permanently. Supposedly modern high-end shotgun barrels are like springs due to heat treat and steel types used and won't hold a "bend".
So from my understanding you wanna back the barrel nut down put the barrel on and the end cap then snug the barrel nut against the barrel ring and it should shoot about right? I read a forum that said the barrel nut should be snug with the barrel ring according to benelli
Drake, to lower the poi on the SBE3 you need to move the barrel ring forward, to raise the poi you need to move the barrel ring backwards? My barrel ring is one thread from the bottom of the treads on the magazine tube. Does small amounts of movement of the barrel ring make the poi change quite a bit?
You’ve got that backwards, move it forward towards the end of the tube to raise, backwards to lower. Small amounts of movement can make a difference. If you are not seeing results with this method have another shooter give it a go. To properly “zero” you should have POA/POI intersect at 16 yards and all further distances should be 60/40-70/30 pattern splits. If you struggle to make a change at all with more than one shooter and adjusting the barrel stop ring, it will have to be serviced by Benelli.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Great information in the video and my gun had always shot a little high. Just happened to be cleaning my gun before season and my ring spins effortlessly and I've never adjusted it before. Now I'm scared I've moved it out of place. What is "factory"? Just barely touching the barrel ring when tightened down?
@@Drblood6721 yes, typically these will ship with the barrel stop ring up against the barrel ring without the retention nut installed. Use blue locktite when you get it set where you want it to keep it from migrating. Some guns will tune to the ring being backed all the way off and the barrel nut torqued down hard. Just confirm your patterns at the range.
Hello from the UK Drake , great video buddy any issues with the gun a couple of years on with a higher shot count ? Looking to do this with my new SBE 3 , she’s shooting higher than I would like. Ive tried the shim kit and it does help but Im quite short in the neck and like to see some rib when I’m shooting. So dropping the stock does not really suit my gun fit or shooting style. Just wondering if the fix creates another issue with time ?
Hello there. No adverse effects experienced over the years and 1,500 rounds or so since I played with adjusting the barrel stop ring for POI shift with my example. Others’ experience may vary.
Thanks for watching and the comment/question.
- Drake
Had an email question to Benelli tech department about adjusting the barrel stop ring to correct the POI. If adjusted too much by some on else other that Benelli, they cannot guarantee the repair and if the barrel hanger breaks as a result of someone else doing any warranty work the warranty would be voided. About 5 years ago one of my hunting companions was next to me in a layout blind in Saskatchewan. He was always slow to set up and shoot. Right after I had emptied my magazine a gun barrel hit me in the nose. His barrel ring separated from the barrel and it fell over side ways into my nose. He sent the gun in and they either fixed it or replaced the whole barrel. I am sure the gun was out of warranty. but they came thru.
That disclaimer is pretty typical and understandable. Thanks for sharing.
novas shoot high too. all of them with the high rear rib like that do.
The high rib profile is designed to place the pattern at a 60/40 to 70/30 split, which some do not like. Once in a while the guns will shoot a little higher, but in general this is usually a mounting issue for the user instead of a mechanical issue or rib regulation.
Thanks for watching.
- Drake
@@AmericanArmsChannel yeah, i have owned a several benellis, they all shot high for me and got sold, i wont buy another. now i look for shotguns with flat ribs and my high POI issue is gone. mine were never 60/40 or 70/30 they were 100/0. lol
We ask you, as promised, with a clear, brief and useful video on how to reduce the point of impact. thanks
hello, I have a benelli SBE II and I noticed that with bird shooting the distribution is around 60/40 however when I shoot it with slugs these go up quite a bit, is there any reason why this could happen?
Good question. The short answer is that slugs and birdshot payloads behave very differently, so the same point of impact cannot be expected.
A solid projectile in a smoothbore will never truly fly to the same point of impact as the center of a shot pattern. It may be close, but it can also vary wildly. A slug will create a different recoil impulse, flex to the barrel, and as a single projectile have a different flight characteristic than shot pellets. Point of impact of slug loads may also change from manufacturer, projectile design and diameter, and other components used. Additionally, the way in which you manage recoil can alter the point of impact of a projectile. This is not as noticeable typically at shorter ranges, but it is very noticeable when shooting long range or for groups with a precision rifle; consistency is everything.
Much like how a rifle will have different points of impact with different loads, a shotgun is no exception. You would not expect a 30-06 to place 150gr 3,000 FPS PSP's to the same place as 200gr 2,500 FPS Ballistic Tips at 100 yards, would you? The same is carried to each firearm type and design. Some examples will be more accommodating of a greater swath of loadings, but these will be moreso an exception than the norm.
Now, you could play with the barrel stop ring on your SBE II to "tune" your shotgun into placing the slug load you are using behind the beads. However, you will more than likely be changing where the shotgun will throw the center of shot patterns. If you are a dedicated slug gun hunter, this is not a worry, but if you are looking to have the versatility that most of us do with our scatterguns, my recommendation is to install some form of sights for slug use. The SBE II is drilled and tapped for a standard weaver 94 pattern rail mount which you can attach a scope, red dot sight, or other sighting method to. Additionally there are rib mounted "iron" sight kits and micro red dot mounting plates available, as well as saddle mounts if that is more your speed.
I hope this answered your question and gave you some insight. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
- Drake
Heck i cant get the nut loosen. Ive tried heat
You will need to get it hot enough to melt the thread locker and turn it off while it is still hot, otherwise it will not move.
Make sure you remove the spring and round limited plug before attempting, otherwise you will damage them.
Void a 10 year warranty? No thanks I'll adjust my shooting to the poi ! Good vid tho haven't to shot mine yet!
I don't get how backing the ring off completely or just a little would make a difference. Any idea how?
By adjusting the barrel stop ring you are adjusting the amount of pressure/tension the magazine end cap (also called the “barrel nut” colloquially) can place on the barrel ring. Tension rearward on the barrel ring places tension on the barrel causes different “harmonics”, as well as very minimally applying downward tension on the barrel. This results in a lowered POI, theoretically. This “trick” does not always work, and some examples of SBE 3 barrels have been reported to be incapable of receiving correction.
There is record of the excessively high POI issue being present in some SBE II’s at that models release, but that issue was never as prevalent nor as drastic as the SBE 3’s has been.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Interesting. I'm going to take mine to the range again, but I may send it to Benelli before messing with it myself..
I got a question. I loosen that barrel collar all the way down but when I put the nut back on to tighten barrel down it doesn’t sit on the collar n seems to still be tighten to same spot. (Small gap between collar and barrel) So now I’m starting to think how can turning the collar down make any difference when the barrel still sits in same position?
While the barrel ring will (mostly) stay in the same position when the stop ring is backed off and the barrel nut is fully tightened down, what is occurring during firing is barrel flex and harmonics. By adjusting or removing all tension from the barrel stop ring on the barrel ring, you are modifying how the barrel is "tuned". This adjustment will regulate how that barrel will throw a shot column.
With the SBE 3 design, my best guess is that the combination of Vent-rib angle to axis of bore being set to intersect at about 16 yards and the stiffness/profile of the crio-treated barrel results in the high patterning assemblies when not tuned to that individual barrel's liking from the factory.
I hope this answers your question.
- Drake
Ah ok I see… thanks for the reply
If the barrel stop nut is moved rearward, will there be a gap between it and the barrel ring when fully assembled? Or do you tighten the barrel nut down a little extra to insure the barrel ring touches the barrel stop nut?
I have done it both ways and seen no negative impacts, so long as the barrel nut is always tightened down as far as it will go by hand when the stop ring is backed all the way off. Really, the position of the stop ring is determined by what you need to accomplish with adjusting the pattern POI.
I have shot hundreds of rounds with the stop ring backed all the way off (made the gun shoot 45/55 to 50/50 patterns) and experienced no inconsistency in patterns nor damage to the barrel ring.
I hope this helps clarify and answer your question.
@@AmericanArmsChannel yes, thanks. I was concerned about the barrel slamming into the stop ring upon recoil and yielding either inconsistent patterns or possible damage to the gun. Thanks!
As long as the barrel nut/magazine end cap is properly installed, the barrel should not shift forward or back during firing. Benelli will most likely claim that you risk damage to the barrel ring or some other line of reasoning that would void the warranty, but I am personally not concerned with that seeing how over the course of 3 years and 5k+ shells the firearm has experienced no failures requiring service. The way in which Benelli constructs its barrels gives me high confidence in there being no issues with that part set up in that way over the long haul (*murphy's law can and will apply however, so evaluate and weigh the risk for yourself and your needs).
I think it is still ideal to have the barrel stop ring contact the barrel ring, but if you can only achieve the desired patterns with it backed totally off, then I would not worry about it too much.
Is this just on the 12g or the Performance Shop models, because my SBE3 20g doesn’t have this, It just came with replacement shims?
My understanding is that this is only applicable to the 12 gauge 3" and 3-1/2" Supermagnum models of the SBE 3. The 20ga and 28ga variants do not use the Barrel Stop Ring in their construction.
In my research I have not been able to find a mechanical solution to bringing down the point of impact for the 20 and 28 gauge variants. If you do not want to send the gun back to Benelli for service, or the POI is not too agregious (I.E., it is shooting 80/20 patterns or less) then you can install a larger bead and trick your eye into floating the bird higher over the barrel. Sometimes removing the bead entirely can also be a viable path to eliminating the issue of high patterning and the trouble of trying to aim and compensate for the pattern. Effectively, removing the bead takes away a focal point for your eyes allowing for a true target focus shooting method.
There is always a number of ways to skin a cat, but I hope a few of the above suggestions will help you. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
- Drake
Also on my 20g the receiver cover is detachable from the barrel and isn’t attached to it, is this normal for the 20g?
@@matthewmorris3997 yes, the 3” 12, 3” 20, and 3” 28 gauge SBE 3’s all utilize an anodized aluminum receiver cover for the barrel extension, just as the Ethos does. This is the standard construction.
Any ideas how to adjust POI in the Benelli Nova? There’s no stock shims and no ring on the tube like the SBE. Maybe a higher bead? I don’t know how I’d go about installing that or what I need to get
Unfortunately, I have no significant experience with the Nova/Super Nova at this time and can't recommend a definitive fix regarding high patterning due to a mechanical issue.
The Nova, like most all Benelli's, is regulated to fire a 60/40 to 70/30 pattern split. If your example is producing these patterns it is in spec and my recommendation is to take the easier path of learning to float the bird on the bead and not covering it. If it is shooting higher patterns that are out of spec (75/25 to 100/0) when you know for sure sighting is proper, then you will need to send the gun in to Benelli on warranty for adjustment or replacement of the barrel (again, if it is truly shooting high).
The best thing to do is to solidly rest the shotgun and sight the pattern board with the center of the target just above the bead and none of the top of the vent rib visible to you. I have seen a number of shooters claim a "high-shooting" gun due to poor mounting practices or a gun that does not fit them properly.
The bead on the Nova series is fairly large, so addition of an even larger bead may be hard to source and may not do anything for you. However, Tru-viz sighting systems does offer larger beads that fit the Nova and Super Nova. Since the Nova has a stock that is part of its receiver and can't be adjusted for drop or cast, if you find the high patterning is due to fit, most times adding a thicker butt pad or a stock boot will push the comb out from your face and place your line of sight straight down the rib and not above it. This is not a perfect fix, but many times shooters that struggle with a high-shooting gun when in the field or on the range have a gun that is short-stocked for them.
I hope the above information helps. Thanks for the viewership and the comment.
- Drake
@@AmericanArmsChannel thanks for responding with good information. I appreciate your time a lot.
When I’m shooting clays I don’t even see the bead. I just focus on the target and let it rip. Maybe that’s improper shooting technique? When patterning my gun to get ready for a card shoot is when I realized it patterns way high. I was stacking the beads and making an 8 because I thought that’s what I was supposed to do. When time permits I’ll shoot again and line the beads up and see what happens. I really have to push my head down on the stock to get my eye low enough for this, like my cheek bone tight to the comb of my stock.
I’d probably have to add 2 inches to my LOP to get the bead alignment correct without feeling like I’m really pushing my face into the stock. I have a thicker recoil pad on order so when it gets delivered I’ll put it on to lengthen some and then work on fine tuning my head position and mount.
Thanks again for your time. You do great videos with great information and I appreciate the work you put in.
No, you are wing shooting correctly. The bead is for reference of where the end of the barrel is, not aiming.
If you are stacking the mid-bead and the bead, that entirely explains why you are shooting high. The longer butt pad and a slight change in gun-mount will help you greatly.
Thanks for the praise. Happy to help.
@@AmericanArmsChannel I don’t even see the bead for barrel reference purposes. When I mount I just use the bead to ensure consistent mounting. With my level of shooting experience now I don’t even need to do that. Honestly if the bead came off of my gun I probably wouldn’t even notice other than checking my mount.
Then you are wing-shooting "correctly". It sounds like you are only experiencing an issue when you are aiming the shotgun and sighting it like a rifle with the mid-bead and bead acting as your rear and front sight. Even so, simply adjusting your sight picture in those instances will place your patterns' point of impact inline with your expectations.
Removing both beads is a viable option for advanced and new shooters alike. It's all personal preference and what works best for the individual. I have used small, large, and no beads and find myself performing well with small plain or fiber-optic beads fairly regularly, but do well regardless of bead type and style if the gun fits me (which is arguably the most important factor).
No similar ring to adjust on the Benelli M2 20 ga, but there is on the 12 ga. Do the smaller gauge SBE 3 guns all have these rings?
No. The 20 and 28ga do not have a barrel stop ring on the magazine tube.
What did you use to bust the ring loose after heating
A vice grip padded by a cloth.
I have an sbe2. It
Shoots 60:40 with lead
80:20 with steel. My ring is about 1 thread from being bottomed out.
I have adapted shooting it this way. Would you adjust yours shooting like this ?
I found that lead and bismuth loads shoot extremely close and steel is not much different with my SBE3. If your barrel stop ring is backed all the way off on your SBE II, there is not much other adjustment you can make without replacing the barrel and giving that a try.
I will make sure to add that it is important to make sure the gun is shimmed to fit you, or that when aiming for patterns you see none of the top of the vent rib and only see the bead. I have solved a couple of shooter's high shooting shotgun issued by making sure the gun either fit them or that their mount gave them the proper sighting plane.
What’s different about the montefeltro ?
Vent-Rib and barrel regulation. It’s not set up for the higher POI like the Vinci’s, M2, SBE II/3, ethos, etc.
Have you heard of any 2020 models and newer have this POA issue? Looking at getting a sbe3 b.e.s.t model but not if there shooting 70/30 or 80/20 from the factory. To me this is a quality control issue.
SBE’s (like most Benelli models) are regulated to pattern 60/40 - 70/30. So if you don’t want that pattern hight or floating the target I don’t recommend you buy a Benelli.
There are some reports of current production examples exhibiting the same excessively high patterning issue, but it seems to be less so than originally in ‘17 and ‘18.
There are reports that the 20ga models can suffer from the same problem though, so it is an inherent issue with production method and design that Benelli has not quite nailed down. Other than this, the guns are rock solid in all other categories. To me, It would not stop me from purchasing another example due to the fact that I know I can adjust the firearm back into spec.
Where did you get that oversized bolt handle?
Briley Manufacturing
Do you get any check slap from your SBE3? My SX4 is much softer shooting than my SBE3. I don’t get any cheek slap with my Sx4 either. I have adjusted the shims and it really doesn’t help. I am going to have to attempt this fix as well because mine is shooting 90/10 at best with the D shim installed.
No, cheek slap is not an issue for me with the SBE3. It sounds like the SX4 fits you better than the SBE 3. I am going to guess the SBE 3 stock is too long for you. Buy the shorter pad and try it like that. Also, load for load you will feel a difference. I experience more slap with the SX4 because it does not fit me and it has no cusion on the comb of the stock. The comb piece on the SBE 3 is very cushy and should not be slapping or punching you, especially if you have your face on the gun.
Again, it sounds like your SBE 3 is not fitted to you. If the stock is too long and you have the D shim installed, I am willing to bet you are both not seating the gun into your shoulder properly due to it being a little long and you are lifting your head to see down the vent rib to the bead , which is causing “cheek slap”.
Further, the SX4 can have some naturally softer shooting qualities than the SBE 3 since it is both heavier and gas operated. But again, fit is a big part of perceived recoil.
@@AmericanArmsChannel you are the best source of information on the super black eagle on the internet. There is a couple other guys that have some great info too. I went to bed last night hating my SBE3 and regretting my purchase. This afternoon it’s a totally different gun. The problem was it was out of spec for me and I had to attempt to shim the POI down. When I did that it caused a figment issue. I went to a D shim and it was still shooting high and then it caused a pitch issue causing recoil to come up into my face. I adjusted my barrel ring in and put an A shim on to try and help recoil come straight back. And I’ll be darned if it didn’t completely change my gun experience. POI is exactly where I want it (I think) end recoil is so much better because the comb and pitch is more suitable for me with the A shim. I say I think because I do need to pattern it some more on a larger piece of paper. It’s raining and I was pressed for time so I only had time to put a small card board box at 20 yards and try it. It looks so promising. I would love to explore a different recoil pad with the correct pitch for me even. I think then I would have it dialed in exactly where I need it. I just wanted to come back and say THANK YOU for your response and videos. You was the ultimate source of the information I needed to get my gun dialed in for me without having to send it off for a month. One thing I will add incase it could help someone else. I used a drop a hair dryer to get the barrel ring adjustment just warm. Then I used a rubber strap wrench to dial it in just a touch. It did not mar the finish at all and worked for me. Thanks again. 🙏
How big is the gap between the stop and the barrel band on your final adjustment?
When assembled, minimal to none. But that’s for my example. Each gun will require it’s own tuning.
Привет 🙌 что посоветуешь, Беретта апланд или Беретта лайт, что по качеству лучше. Спасибо
I am not sure which model of Upland or Light that you are referencing, but I assume you mean the A400. I would say that both are going to perform equally being the same action and gas system. I would say you will need to simply decide whether you want simple and rugged (Light version) or fancy and well finished (Upland version).
Я не уверен, какую модель Upland или Light вы имеете в виду, но я предполагаю, что вы имеете в виду A400. Я бы сказал, что оба будут работать одинаково, имея одинаковую систему действия и газа. Я бы сказал, что вам нужно будет просто решить, хотите ли вы простой и прочный (версия Light) или модный и хорошо законченный (версия Upland).
@@AmericanArmsChannel да именно А 400, спасибо большое за совет🤝 удачи.
Any help for this with the 20ga?
Bigger/higher-bead or send it back to benelli
What about after the ring is set where you need it? Do you need to stake it down or try to loctite it again?
thumper49802 once you have it where you want it with the loads you want, mark the threads at its bottom. Roll the ring up past it’s desired set, then use red-loctite on the threads and move the ring back into place at the mark. I would not try to stake it, as that will require damaging the ring and tube should it ever need to be adjusted again in the future.
Red is a little overkill, would try the blue. Much more user friendly
Good video. Now to just figure out how to correct the fact my gun still shoots left ....
Do you have it shimmed for your drop and cast?
@@AmericanArmsChannel yep, casted for right handed shooter 65 mm drop. It shoots left off the bench. It’s not the end of the world with bird shot but it’s real bad with slugs. 7 inches high and 5 inches left at 50 yards.
@@toddbunnett640 have you tried adjusting the barrel stop ring yet? Some guys have found the left POI was corrected along with the high POI when tuning the Barrel Stop Ring.
@@AmericanArmsChannel I have not done that yet.
@@toddbunnett640 give it a try and see what happens. If that does not resolve the issue, I would ring customer service and send it in to Benelli. By a lot of accounts right now, Benelli has had a quick turnaround for service work
The shims that come with it from the factory for the butt end arent the way?
That will only fit the shotgun to the shooter and place line of sight straight down the vent-rib, as it should be. Actual adjustment of the POI is through tuning the barrel stop ring as demonstrated.
@@AmericanArmsChannel nice. Thank you my man!! Any tips on bringing it to the right
@@rickdaniels6741 sometimes the adjustment of the barrel stop ring will also adjust the horizontal axis as well. This is not always the case, but it can occur. I am still unaware of a fix for that specific POI issue, but if I discover one I will share the fix.
Is Benelli adding that magazine ring to the SBE III now?
No, the barrel ring stop has always been there.
Does modification of the ring affect the gun?
Well, no. Making adjustments to the position of the ring will not affect the function of the firearm. The barrel stop ring only regulates the point of impact in relation to the point of aim. It has nothing to do with the cyclic operation of the shotgun.
@@AmericanArmsChannel are you sure ?
@@abdullah-j1126 very sure
I would have hard time trusting that ring for point of impact.
You should use a rest to more accurate POI
Ideally, yes, you would use a rest to test and adjust POI. This video was just a simple demonstration of how to go about adjusting the POI on the SBE 3 (also works on all Super-90 based Benelli models that use a Barrel Stop Ring).
Why would you have a hard time trusting it? Part of its designed function is to help tune POI. Benelli makes this adjustment at their service department when adjusting SBE’s that need it.
When you have the nut that holds the barrel tight against the barrel ring how can the lower ring make any difference? You have to have the nut tight against the barrel ring to make sure that there is no play against the back of the chamber. How can that lower ring change anything?
Adjusting the tension/position of the barrel stop ring adjusts the tension placed on the barrel ring buy the barrel nut/magazine cap. this difference in tension and the resulting barrel whip/harmonics is what is adjusting the POI.
The SBE is barrel has a vent rib sighting plane regulated to intersect the barrel axis at 16 yards. This, when combined with a properly tuned barrel stop ring, sets the general pattern splits at 25 to 50 yards at 60/40 to 70/30.
The barrel stop ring does not regulated the lock-up of the bolt lugs into their recesses on the barrel extension nor does it affect head space. If you were to adjust the stop ring so that barrel extension is not flush with the rear of the receiver, you will not have sufficient tension on the bolt group to feed, chamber, and lock-up on a shell.
Once you get the ring set where you want it will you use lock tight to keep it in the correct position? If you do not lock tight the ring do you feel it will n cause any movement of the ring witch could cause problems in the future? @@AmericanArmsChannel
@@jimrogers2468 Yes. Once tuned for the pattern split you desire you should mark the position of the barrel stop ring on the magazine tube's end threads with a sharpie or other marker. Screw the ring bellow or above its tuned point that you just marked, apply blue or red loctite to the threads in that position, then return to its marked point. I would recommend using the lower temp/lower strength blue loctite as it will hold the ring firmly, but allow for easy heating and turning of the ring in the future should adjusting the POI again be desired.
I have not used loctite on my example as I have been playing with it a bit over the past year, but at this point I will be doing that as I am happy with where I have tuned it. I have seen minimal if any turning, and turning has only occurred when the barrel nut has not been cinched tight. Honestly, purple loctite would probably work just fine for the purpose of keeping the barrel stop ring where desired. Should a barrel stop ring work itself loose from firing and disassembly/reassembly, I can guarantee it will work down the threads and not up (there is a barrel ring in its way after all). The worse thing that can happen in that scenario is the patterns throwing consistently low or becoming inconsistent if the barrel nut loosens as well; the latter of which should not happen if you are applying ample tension to the barrel nut when assembling the firearm.
In general, I find people have placed far more thought into the correction process and issue of a high shooting Super-90 series Benelli (M1 Super 90/Black Eagle, Super Black Eagle, SBE II, SBE 3, etc.) than is necessary. The Point of Impact is regulated by the Vent-Rib Sighting plane and the barrel stop ring on the design. The barrel stop ring is a simple component, and despite its name, it does little to actually "stop" the barrel ring and more so to adjust its tuning when the shotguns are assembled. I have literally fired around 600 shells of all power levels through my SBE 3 with the ring COMPLETELY backed off from the barrel ring with no adverse effects or operational issue outside of a greatly lowered pattern split.
I hope this all helps you.
@@AmericanArmsChannel Thank you for your reply. I am having a hard time understanding what you are saying with the barrel stop ring and the threaded cap on top of the magazine. When you are talking about the lugs locking up, are you saying they lock up from the front of the bolt into the barrel extension, and they lock into area right behind the shell? So once the threaded magazine cap is tightened down on the barrel ring the POI can only be adjusted by either screwing in or out of the barrel stop ring. After POI adjustments are set will the barrel stop ring hold it's position without lock tight?
@@jimrogers2468 I think the confusion is coming from the terminology here. The barrel ring is the ring that comes down from the barrel and allows the barrel to be secured to the magazine tube and receiver via the "Magazine Cap" (Benelli's term for the part, what I was calling the "barrel nut"). The Barrel Stop Ring (Benelli's full name for the part is the "Magazine Tube Barrel Stop Ring) is the ring which sits bellow the magazine tube bellow the barrel ring when assembled, as seen in the video.
When fully assembled, the barrel stop ring does nothing more than control the position of the barrel ring and the tension the "Magazine Cap" (barrel nut) applies to it. This is how it can be used to adjust point of impact Vertically. One of the most efficient methods to adjust the ring is to do as you see me do in the video; remove the handguard from the equation, adjusting the barrel stop ring in and out prior to tightening down the Magazine Cap.
The barrel stop ring can hold its position from tension alone after adjustment, but thread sealer or loctite does need to be utilized to insure it will not move. Mine doesn't move a lot because the threads have loctite residue on them, but if they were clean it would.
Regarding the lock-up of the action, you had asked if it would affect that. My reply was an attempt to detail that no, it would not harm the function of the action. And, that only if you positioned the Barrel Stop Ring too far forward would you end up in a situation where the action would not function. It was a theoretical.
Sorry for the confusion. I hope this helps clear it up.
How far away do you pattern for waterfowl?
The "standard" is a 30" circle at 30 and 40 yards. I however prefer to pattern at 25, 30, and 40 yards with my 12, 16, and 28 gauges as those are the distances I most commonly kill birds at. When patterning my 10 gauge, I typically look at 40, 45, 50, and 60 yard patterns, as the days I will be using the 10 I will most likely be taking those longer shots.
My advice is to always pattern at the distances you anticipate most commonly shooting birds at. Just as there is no "do-it-all" choke constriction, bore size, load type, or barrel length with shotguns, there is no "shoot at this distance and you know how it does at all ranges" distance to pattern at.
I also typically test in 5 yard increments to see how the pattern opens over distance with a specific load and choke combo. For most shooters, however, patterning at 20, 30 and 40 yards will give them the best idea of what their gun/choke/load combo can do for them.
@@AmericanArmsChannel awesome thank you🤙
Do you know if this works for the SBE 2 as well?
Yes. The method to lower point of impact on the SBE II is identical to that of the SBE 3. Practically all of the Super-90 derivatives will have a barrel stop ring like you see in this video.
What about Vinci? Does it have a ring also? Probably not but is there something that can be done about 100/0 pattern?
I don’t know of any DIY solutions for the Vinci if it shoots out of spec. The Vinci is a completely unique design and has little in common with traditional shotgun design.
Should I discover a process to lower POI, I will post a video detailing it. If your Vinci or SV is suffering from an out of spec POI, I would send it to Benelli for service.
American Arms Channel
Thanks. It does suffer from out of place POI but I bought it used and it’s out of warranty. But I got myself the Aimpoint S1 to tackle the problem. Even though I would prefer just basic rail and bead.
👍
Nothing like heating a 1700 dollar gun to work lol
Meh, you’re not going to hurt it. And the gun already works, it’s just the barrel rings are not always regulated properly for 60/40 patterns. The SBE II had the same issues.
Thanks for explaining why you should just buy a Winchester SX4. What a pain in the neck.
The SX4 is a great shotgun in my experience. If it were not for the potential of encountering this issue on the SBE3 there would be little to nothing to criticize it over. Let's not forget though the SX4's propensity to loose bolt handles and beat itself loose with a steady diet of heavy hunting loads. lol. Still a great gun if you take care of it. Don't care for the recoil impulse though.
It should be done at the factory before being sold
It would behoove them to do so, but apparently it has not cost them enough in RMA's to justify that expense at the corporate level. The gun is dead-ass reliable, but some production method, QA/QC, or design element needs to be tweaked to assure consistent production.
ترجمة عربية
Burris fastfire 3 speedbead and the problem is solved 😁
haha, yes, that could also be a solution; albeit a $300 one at that.
👍👍
This is ridiculous unless you change the rib along the barrel its all a matter of how you look over the barrel.
Well, it works, so it’s not so ridiculous is it?
Just change the shims
Adjusting cast and drop only aligns the line of sight to the user's eye, it does not adjust the Point of Impact or "Zero" of the shotgun in relation to the true point of aim. In other words, fitting the gun to a user via the shims does not solve the underlying issue if the shotgun does not fire to, or close to, the point of aim.
For a loose analogy, would you tell a rifle shooter to add or adjust a cheek riser on their rifle instead of adjusting the scope turrets when their grouping do not meet their point of aim? Of course not, because that doesn't solve the problem.
The bottom line is, adjusting a shotgun for drop, cast, and length of pull to better fit the shooter will ensure better shooting overall and to align the shooter's eye with the axis of the bore when shouldering; effectively this ensures the gun "points where you look" without having to move your body to place the eye in line with the bead and thus the target. It does not impact the actual point of impact vs the point of aim when you are firing the shotgun on a stationary target.
Thanks for watching.
- Drake
Jesus Christ loves you all
I had one of these things. What an over priced piece of shit. Sent it back to the factory twice and they never got it right. They know it’s an issue and so does a lot of other people because they are worth much on the used market.
I forgot to mention mine gun shot high and left. In fact it was 100/0 high and about 12-15” left at 25yrds. They are know for this.
@@avidwaterfowler7522 some guns were worse than others. Mine has shot high until I made this modification or used a taller bead to trick my eye. I don’t know why Benelli blundered the corrections post release of the gun so much, but my understanding is that the issues have been resolved for a year or more now. They should have handled it much better than they did, and I suspect corporate heads decided they preferred to ignore and fix the issues quietly than own up to the egg on their face and fix it with integrity and honesty. Unfortunately, this is the nature of many manufacturers. It sucks that you did not have success with their service department, I know the feeling from my Browning experience. From a reliability standpoint though, the SBE 3 has had no issues, so there is that positive mark for the guns.
I have no clue as to what was causing the SBE 3’s to shoot left, but that also is a known issue with some early guns, which was exasperated by certain loads. The SBE II were found to also have POI issues for a period of time after their release, but I believe it was not as widely known or talked about due to talk about it not being anywhere near as rampant as it is today across the internet forums. You have to keep in mind that was the 2002-2008 era pre-UA-cam so it is no surprise it was not as widely discussed or known to have been an issue.
I don’t know that the issue has affected the second hand market for the SBE 3, as they are consistently listed and sold for about $1,300 to $1,550 depending on model and location. That is no different than what used SBE II’s sold for around 1 to 3 years before the SBE 3 release.
American Arms Channel I agree. With a retail of 2 grand and standard street price of $1800, my expectations are high. I have owned three Benelli products and two were duds. I will most likely never buy another.
Browning’s customer service has always been known to be slow and not timely. However, I have had less issues with any browning than Benelli. It is weird that beretta customer service is awesome even though they own Benelli.....
On another hand, if you have reliability issues with your gold 10, let me know there is two areas that you can clean up with 1000 grit sand paper and oil to make the gun 100 percent.
Avid Waterfowler that sucks you didn’t have a great experience with a few benelli products. I own 2 and both have been exceptional with only the higher POI with the SBE 3 being a, in my opinion and personal outlook, a slight inconvenience. I will be buying more Benelli products in the future and will take one of their products over any competitor offered at the same price-point, every time, based on my experience.
However, I will not say the same regarding a Browning product. Being unbelievably slow and telling your customers on your website to send their problem guns to “certified service centers” if they want speedier turn-around, being unwilling to answer turn around time questions and be responsive to a concerned customer speaks volumes to how much they value their business and products performance. What Benelli does says to me they are embarrassed, but will try to get you taken care of. What Browning does tells me they truly don’t care and are incompetent. Unfortunately, in the world of manufacturing, it seems the instances of service departments being either incompetent or incapable of resolving a products issues after multiple tries is the common theme. Finding a manufacturer that does not is to be sounded from the roof tops and supported greatly.
On the note about the Gold 10, I finally got everything ironed out on it. I will be including all of that information in my final review, and maybe a separate video on specifically the modifications, but it took a deep evaluation of the shotgun and a solid list of corrections to make it run:
- shim fore-end to properly seat barrel in receiver when installed
- remove rough tool marks from feed ramp and polish
- add a nested spring to the extractor to increase tension and improve extraction
- polish chamber to improve extraction (needs to be honed still)
- Turn down internal portion of receiver that was dragging on the bolt carrier
- replace action spring and receiver extension tube with SureCycle kit
- add tension to shell stop catch/latch spring by installing a rubber spacer in the recess for the shell catch/latch spring, creating proper tension and height to work reliably.
- replace magazine spring with higher tension one by Wolff Springs (12ga extra power spring works fine and increases feed reliability)
I appreciate the offer to help with getting the Gold 10 to run though!
I hope the translation in Arabic, thank you
Tightened the barrel ring down and changed the shims also, no success in bringing the shot down, probably just going to sell this lemon of a gun
Have you sent it in to Benelli to have it serviced?
Basically a waste of time and money, BTW address the Benelli click
To each their own. The guns function reliably and are very durable. The high point of impact issue is present in a significant number of examples, but with a simple fix such as this and properly setting drop and cast for the shooter being readily done for those who are competent with hand tools, it will not be a deal killer for many.
The "Benelli Click" has been addressed in its entirety with the Ethos/Raffaello and SBE 3 series with the bolt close assist detent and spring; so, I'm not really sure what you mean.