Initial setup of the thrust bearing should be dry to verify the thrust clearance with a dial indicator. For final assembly applying grease to both sides of the thrust washer is fine.
@@queso2561 I have been asking that question all week, thank you! i could not get my in play right on this sbc i am putting together I feel the assembly lube was the problem but i could not find any info on the topic
@@joshstaley7459 rarely do thrust bearing come out of the box and nail the specification you are trying to look for, this is why it is important the thrust bearing is dry bc if your tolerances are too tight you have to take some 400 grit sand paper and remove material from the thrust bearing through figure 8 strokes on the sand paper with wet sanding with some WD-40. You cannot make adjustments to the bearing when it’s full of lube. I’m glad THIS SON can pass on some knowledge😂
@@jaraujo9881 What do you mean move? Are you saying the half washer moves or your larger thrust bearing in the main journal? Neither should move once the crank and main caps are assembled. You should have something called end play which is the movement of the crank towards the front and rear of the engine. If your thrust bearing is rotating then you have a problem.
Honestly bro, I would dead ass return the MMR plate and hit up boundary performance. They have billet back plates that come with certified specification sheets. There billet pump is about $1000 which is still cheaper than that MMR plate, and you can install boundaries pump with the engine in the car.
@@boosted05ds Np bro. Keep in mind if you decide to keep the MMR plate that will now become a maintenance item. The roller bearing will not last the life of the engine. Don’t listen to anyone who says it will. Additionally, if you’re under a 1000hp you are not going to see any real benefit from the roller bearing. There is a reason that MMR displayed a video showing just the crankshaft spinning with no pistons, rods, or rings. Once the rotating assembly is in there is enough friction from the rings and added weight from the pistons and rods that it really makes very little difference. Don’t be fooled by everything that looks cool. This plate will be more of a pain in the ass than anything if you daily drive this car.
Hey brother im installing a mmr roller bearing back plate which calls for my thust bearing to be tooken down 0.25 and 1/2 moon spacer not to be reinstalled is that meaning the trust washer??
Well to answer your question the 1/2 moon spacer is the washer. The thrust bearing is upper bearing for main journal number 5. I highly doubt they want the thrust set to .25 thats really large. I’ve never installed there plate because MMR has horrible customer service and there quality control is sketchy at best. They are probably referring to the thrust bearing thickness which means you will have to remove quite a lot of material. It will be important to make sure it’s uniform all around so avoid a belt sander.
@queso2561 I got some BS parts from MMR. One was a crank sprocket that did NOT go onto my crank snout/crank key for sh1t. I flipped the gear around to see if it would even start on the key, and it didn't even touch the top of the key, the tolerance was that 'tight'. That's what they and the parts seller tried to tell me "just hammer it on with a socket". And I just said "oh ok, so if I Hammer it on, and it gets stuck halfway on the crank then what" and the guy actually said to just take the crank to a shop and have it pressed on 🤦🏽♂️ I promptly got a different brand. The inner race of the gear came with really bad score marks and not smoothed out at all. It was clearly a bad gear, but the place I bought it from sent me a video of them slipping it on a factory crank, no problem. Staked it to varying factory tolerance..the issue wasn't even the snout it was the keyway of the gear not being cleaned out properly from the CNC. Never again.
Excellent information. Thanks.
good video, son why did you not grease up the sides of that thrush bearing
Initial setup of the thrust bearing should be dry to verify the thrust clearance with a dial indicator. For final assembly applying grease to both sides of the thrust washer is fine.
@@queso2561 I have been asking that question all week, thank you! i could not get my in play right on this sbc i am putting together I feel the assembly lube was the problem but i could not find any info on the topic
@@joshstaley7459 rarely do thrust bearing come out of the box and nail the specification you are trying to look for, this is why it is important the thrust bearing is dry bc if your tolerances are too tight you have to take some 400 grit sand paper and remove material from the thrust bearing through figure 8 strokes on the sand paper with wet sanding with some WD-40. You cannot make adjustments to the bearing when it’s full of lube. I’m glad THIS SON can pass on some knowledge😂
@@queso2561 that what i did. i had .001 out the box, and i sanded until .005
Does this thrust bearing moves a lil when the crankshaft rotates? Mine does. Is that normal?
@@jaraujo9881 What do you mean move? Are you saying the half washer moves or your larger thrust bearing in the main journal? Neither should move once the crank and main caps are assembled. You should have something called end play which is the movement of the crank towards the front and rear of the engine. If your thrust bearing is rotating then you have a problem.
Also is this possible to do with motor in car already or no?
Fuck no, not if you need to change the thrust like you are saying.
Honestly bro, I would dead ass return the MMR plate and hit up boundary performance. They have billet back plates that come with certified specification sheets. There billet pump is about $1000 which is still cheaper than that MMR plate, and you can install boundaries pump with the engine in the car.
@queso2561 Thank you, brotha. very much you are very helpful. I couldn't find any research on what I was looking for, and you nailed it!!!!!
@@boosted05ds Np bro. Keep in mind if you decide to keep the MMR plate that will now become a maintenance item. The roller bearing will not last the life of the engine. Don’t listen to anyone who says it will.
Additionally, if you’re under a 1000hp you are not going to see any real benefit from the roller bearing. There is a reason that MMR displayed a video showing just the crankshaft spinning with no pistons, rods, or rings. Once the rotating assembly is in there is enough friction from the rings and added weight from the pistons and rods that it really makes very little difference. Don’t be fooled by everything that looks cool. This plate will be more of a pain in the ass than anything if you daily drive this car.
Hey brother im installing a mmr roller bearing back plate which calls for my thust bearing to be tooken down 0.25 and 1/2 moon spacer not to be reinstalled is that meaning the trust washer??
Sorry meant Oil pump gear back plate from mmr
Well to answer your question the 1/2 moon spacer is the washer. The thrust bearing is upper bearing for main journal number 5.
I highly doubt they want the thrust set to .25 thats really large. I’ve never installed there plate because MMR has horrible customer service and there quality control is sketchy at best. They are probably referring to the thrust bearing thickness which means you will have to remove quite a lot of material. It will be important to make sure it’s uniform all around so avoid a belt sander.
@queso2561 thanks for the real quick response brother 🙏 👍 you made my answered all my questions and at a understanding point.
@queso2561 I got some BS parts from MMR. One was a crank sprocket that did NOT go onto my crank snout/crank key for sh1t. I flipped the gear around to see if it would even start on the key, and it didn't even touch the top of the key, the tolerance was that 'tight'. That's what they and the parts seller tried to tell me "just hammer it on with a socket". And I just said "oh ok, so if I Hammer it on, and it gets stuck halfway on the crank then what" and the guy actually said to just take the crank to a shop and have it pressed on 🤦🏽♂️ I promptly got a different brand. The inner race of the gear came with really bad score marks and not smoothed out at all. It was clearly a bad gear, but the place I bought it from sent me a video of them slipping it on a factory crank, no problem. Staked it to varying factory tolerance..the issue wasn't even the snout it was the keyway of the gear not being cleaned out properly from the CNC. Never again.