Ok, I love it when instead of complaining, people just modify things. I don’t think I've ever bought equipment that I didn't modify. Great ideas. I want to figure out how to add ventilation above the door or as part of the door like the cloud up 1 and 3 have. The two has the back vent which if you sleep with your head there, condensation is less. But I expel a ton of water vapor. So an extra vent might help.
Thank you so much! Yes, I mean there's not a single tent or piece of equipment that just does it all, but if there are small quirks that can be improved - why complain if you can simply modify them to get around it?😅 Yeah I've seen that they have that extra vent, and I've always figured it's because the 1 is really small and the 3 has more people giving off heat, but you are right that such a vent could benefit the 2 as well (especially for cooking!). There will be some sewing for you, unless you turn it in to someone who's good at it, but seam sealing shouldn't be a proble, and some velcro and a "vent pole" to keep it a bit open like on the back vent, should be easy to add as well in the process.
I thought the door area is more open since it's a net, and the nylon cover stretches far away from it in a triangular form, so there's more space for air to vent. So, the back of the tent, if you choose to lay your head there- it is the place to have a condensation window. Does the Cloud 2 has that? I have a similar model with a small window at the back side, yet it is placed around the middle of the tent. Not at the top. So, I'm worried it won't clear condensation as well since heat goes up. I bet it's better than nothing. Might get super hot without letting out hot breath air..
These were all great mods and I just got the tent in today and set it up for the first time and did all the mods you suggested first. I only did one modification to your clothesline idea but I only thought it of because of you. All I did instead of sewing in a loop is use two very tiny plastic binder clips and put them on the pocket so I didn't need to sew anything and loop it around the light hanger and to both clips to make 2 clotheslines. I'll just pop them off and put them in my peg bag after but they are tiny and not sharp. Thanks for these ideas. Brilliant !
Is it a smart idea to place socks or other clothes inside the tent at the top? Won't all hot air/condensation dampen those clothes? Is there another way to store the clothes at the end of the day? Especially after you washed them in a river or so?
Those are nice options. When I get that tent, based in other reviews, I would ad a connection point between inner and outer fly. In the mid high range on sides. So it connects to the mid side tie out point and get more side room inside.
I just got the tent, watched your modifications before and will apply them Great and simple ideas @mihamaker: how would you solve the connection between outer and inner?
Really good inputs! For me, the zippers were a setback, felt so weak n prone to damage, but you this idea is giving me hopes! I sincerely hope now that it's indeed the Naturehike stickered pullers where the problem lied and not the zippers! Thanks. Also, I was indeed missing a place to hand cloths, which is there in my other tents! Thanks
Really good mods, thanks! I had this tent, and I loved it. I am thinking of getting another Naturehike tent, and what I really want to make is extra pockets inside the tent. That is something that is really missing in this tent. The pocket above the door of the inner tent is too small, and also things can fall out.
Thank you so much! I agree that it would've been great to have side pockets in this tent, the top pocket is not deep enough for things really. But, I also don't think it's a deal breaker - actually, you could get away with something simple like getting a soft collapsable water bowl for dogs, and put it in the corner of the tent after you set it up and put your stuff in that instead of a pocket - guaranteed to protect your things from possible water on the floor after a leak, too.
Awsome I also used bungee cord on the lower fly tie outs and a short piece of cordage that gives me two possibilities. A closer point and a farther point for better circulation.
Thank you for sharing your video and improvements to the tent. I own cloud up 2 and have purchased the 4mm bungee cord in bright green colour as part of your recommended improvements. Can you please advise what length the bungee loops are? Best wishes Adrian
I am really happy to hear that you found the video useful, thanks a lot! If I remember correctly, I cut the bungee into 25-30 cm pieces in order to create the loops.☺
I really like your mods, most of which I am going to enact upon my Monger 2. My favourite is your mod to the door tie-backs. My biggest criticism go the Monger 2 is how rubbish the tie-backs are. Originally I attempted to replace them with magnets but I chose small magnets that simply aren't powerful enough. Your modification is simpler (and cheaper) and seems far more effective! Thank you Martin
Thanks a lot, that's great to hear! Yeah the tie-backs using toggles are not great (I mean, they function well if they have a tight fit, but that's not the case with this tent), but replacing them with the kind of string-stop worked really superb - the doors are now kept away like they are glued. Happy you liked the tips!
I just brought one of these, I've seen another video suggesting an extra guy line attached to the rear vent, it stops the rear poles being lifted out of their holes in high wind. I will be doing his and your tips to mine as soon as I get it.
That is also a good tip - there are two attachment points for the "upper" guy line on the back; you could use the one above the rear vent for a longer guy line, and the attachment on the vent itself for a steeper angle line. I hope you have great adventures with your new tent!
Interesting mods, I guess I will use only the bungee rope on the ground sheet, the Cloud up 2 is copy of 3F UL Gear ZhengTu 2 Tent and those issues are not existent with mine original version, but faster staking of the groundsheet and aligning it easier with the tent is great idea.
Thank you! Yeah, it really makes a difference being able to staking out the groundsheet quickly, the bungee makes it so easy to tension properly. I don't know what the "corner ropes" are like on the ZhengTu 2, but having bungee on the corner staking points on the inner tent as well, makes it really easy to allign it afterwards.
Hi Martin, upgrades done with additional pegs purchased. You are right where the middle section of the fly sheet needs one separate peg and not shared with guy line sewn to centre of flysheet (otherwise fly sheet has a large gap between its skirt and ground). There is a mini guy line to tie down the middle section of the fly sheet (attached to skirt of the fly sheet). I found this fiddly and instead attached a short bungee loop. I would appreciate your feedback on this? . Thank you again for all your replies!
Hey there! I'm just really happy you found the video helpful, thank you! It sounds like a really clever mod, to add a bungee to the fly sheet skirt, that will give a good secure point! I would recommend you to keep the original guy lines on the skirt too, though, as they give you more playroom for securing the pegs . And, securing the fly sheet low can definately be pleasant when it's a bit windy, so it doesn't become drafty inside the tent, but it can be good to "lift the skirt" more when the air is more still, as it increases the airflow and therefor reduce condensation.
Hi Martin, the mods were tested and glad to report worked!! Thank you again for your videos and guidance, it’s really appreciated. All the best Adrian - Dublin
@@adrianbyrne3413 I'm truly happy to hear that, Adrian! And hey anytime, I'm just glad to be able to help out a bit. Take care out there, and have fun! All the best!
These are amazing! I’ve just bought this tent based on your advice so thank you - I’m very excited to test it out whilst backpacking. But first I’m going to make your mods. Do you suggest putting the bungee loops on every anchor point (ie each guy line (8) (and even bottom skirt guy line (3) and the footprint & inner tent & vestibule)? What about adding rope tensioners to the bottom skirt guylines? Or replacing the guy lines with 4mm para cord -do you think that would be beneficial? Can’t wait to use it!!
Thanks a lot! Really glad to hear you found it useful, and you made a good choice of tent! I have only put bungee cord on: - The 4 corners of the inner tent as well as on the ground sheet - The two pegging points on the flysheet for creating the vestibule (actually three loops, but for two pegs since the door has one extra loop for securing it while closed if the weather is really harsch; I havent used that one, ever, but I did put bungee on it just in case, so three loops there). I don't see it being necessary to put bungee on the guy lines, since you can tension them anyway. The lower guy lines, the "skirt lines", DO have their own tensioners - but they are not like the others, instead the actual anchor point on the skirt is the tensioner; you just pull the guy line on it after you have pegged the small loop down. You can see at 1:32 on the right, how I have tensioned the lower guy line by pulling the string from the skirt attachment point. Regarding changing the guy lines to paracord, I can't really say. Yes the paracord offers some "stretching" which can be good when it's gusty since it's not ripping the anchor points, but it is also heavier and you need a lot of it for all the guy lines. The guy lines already attached are perfectly fine, and their reflective colors are such a bliss when you're out of the tent while it's dark and/or bad weather. I hope this helps!
@@fiskmasadventures Helps?! This is INVALUABLE advice!!! Thanks so much for all your guidance. Makes perfect sense so I'm gonna make these mods exactly how you've suggested and will give feedback after ive tested it on the mountains 😊😊
@@brendonkassel6989 It makes me really happy to hear that, man, thank you! Have fun out there, and yes please I would love to hear your feedback on how it went! 😃
No bit of cord provided with the Cloud Up 2 is dyneema, it's all nylon. I don't know what material your additional clothesline is, but it does not have the slightly stiff look of dyneema-based string either. If it was dyneema, it would mean that you paid a couple of euros extra so that this piece of string would withstand pulls of approximately one ton, and may I suggest that your laundry doesn't need this kind of strength? Consider using a nylon or polypropylene string, which for the same dimensions are half as resistant for a tenth of the price. “Dyneema” is not a synonym for “string” in a camping context, it's the name of a supremely strong but supremely expensive fiber. Dyneema can be used for making high-end ultralight strings for camping, and perhaps you heard someone use the word to refer to dyneema-based string in a mod where the string needed to be long and resistant enough that it mattered that it was dyneema rather than nylon in order to save grams. Dyneema is not present anywhere in any Naturehike tent, and I don't think it is used in your clothesline either. (In dyneema cord it's not even the dyneema that is stiff, it's the very tightly woven polyester jacket required to protect the dyneema fibers in the center from abrasion.)
Thank you for the clarification! The cord I bought to create the clothesline was indeed dyneema, since I reckoned it was the same type as the provided guy lines. It wasn't very expensive, but I could certianly have gotten away cheaper.
Thank you, that's nice to hear!😊 I think that I cut each bungee piece into 30 cm, so it was enough to create the knot and still have a good sized loop!
Thanks a lot! No, I have several tents, but this is one of the two that I use frequently. I got it back in 2021, and it's still going strong. All the trips I've used it on, are on my channel! :)
Hi Martin. By fitting bungee cords to all the anchoring points on the footprint, will that affect stability and make the tent less stable and fixed to ground in windy conditions? Thank you.
Hi! I would dare to say it would not affect stability in wind. Yes, it can stretch, but it also means you can peg the anchoring points with better tension (in most conditions) since you can stretch out the bungee pretty good before anchoring it. So, you can practically tension it better using the bungee than with the dyneema, making the ground sheet more stable.
Hi Martin, thank you for your reply. Your comments make sense and I will leave the bungee cords attached to tent. Thank you again for sharing your advice and guidance, it’s appreciated. Chat later - Adrian (Ireland)
Greetings Martin. Good video and very good ideas for improvement. I do not have the tent, I am thinking of buying for the next occasion that is at a better price. One more improvement if possible and perhaps one of the most important. Would it be possible to sew a line with two hooks from the inner tent to the side tensioners of the outer 20d fabric? That way there would be more width at shoulder height, don't you think? I have been watching videos of the tent from the inside and I think it is compatible to sew a two-part fabric tape with a plastic hook, from the separation of the two materials that make up the interior fabric, to the tensioning reinforcement of the fabric on the inside. 20d nylon but on the inside. At those two points the material is stronger. Sorry for my english. I'm spanish.
Thank you, I'm happy you found it helpful! I can definately recommend this tent, you would not go wrong to get it. I get your idea, and it's a really good one. I think the height of where the mesh meets the nylon on the inner tent is about the right height to do that, and since the guy line on the outside already has a reinforced fabric section, it could be possible to sew in a hook on the inside there too (but then you have to seam seal the stitches). However, i would not say that I have experienced the shoulder width to be too narrow. Maybe it would be that in the Cloud Up 1, but in this it's pretty spacious. The problem with hooks like you describe, is that it could be a little tricky to attach them, considering the order of how the tent is raised - but absolutely not impossible. If you get the tent, you will very quickly get the feeling of whether the width is enough or if you want more - if you want that, I think your idea sounds like a great solution!
I'd say you should put the back against the wind, so the entrance is facing away from the wind direction. That way you get the most narrow wedge of the tent facing the wind, and you can open the door and use the entrance normally since it's sheltered by the tent body.
Thank you, happy you like it! You are right, when it's windy it can feel a bit drafty inside, when you peg out the lower guy lines together with the higher ones. That's why I added 3 extra pegs, so I can peg out the lower ones closer to the tent in order to make the gap smaller. But, it should also be added that even though the gap creates draft in windy conditions, the inner tent helps with the fact only the upper half is mesh (you feel the draft, but through created vortex and not straight wind). The positive side of it, is that the increased airflow with the gap helps you a lot with reducing the condensation.
Just got my new cloud up 2 tent and I have just put it up in the garden. The only thing that I can not figure out is a small clip halfway back on the inside tent. I think it must be to do with pulling the inside tent out to stop any sagging of the tent walls on the inside . There is a small clip like the ones at each corner but what connects to it?
Congratulations to your new tent! And yes you're absolutely right, the little clip connects to a small clip on the flysheet (lower bottom), and when you tension the lower guy line on the side, that clip makes sure the inner tent isn't sagging along the sides (and also gives some support against the inner tent flapping in from wind).
That's a great question, actually. I think that I cut the bungee into ~30 cm pieces, so that when the bungee is tied into the loop, the "inner length" of the loop is about 12 cm or so (because of the knot and ends).
@@ascetik I honestly have no idea what it's called, but it's the same basic knot as I used on the dyneema cord for the doors and that was used for the dyneema loops that the bungee replaced (check the close-up at 2:01). You see it more clearly on the bungee itself at 2:30.
Mine only has one guyline on the back? There are two hooks at the back of the fly to attach guylines to but it only came with 5 total guylines, which I'm using two on the front, two on the sides and one on the back. So I should only need an additional two pegs, right? Do I really need an upper and lower guyline on the back?
That is interesting! I also have two guy line hooks at the back (one on the vent flap, and one above it), but I also got mine with a second guy line for the bottom fabric tie point on the back, just like the ones on the sides that you see at 1:33 . You don't have that low one on the back? In case you don't - then yes, you only need to additional pegs. In case you do, I would recommend one extra for the back as well, since the low "lip" might flap a bit in the wind.
By hand. Attaching it to the fabric that covers the outer end of the top pocket, by "looping" the thread like when you're attaching an emblem to a jacket by hand (but only stitching in one spot).
If you wanted to make your tent heavier, then why not immediately buy a Mongar or Cloud Peak? I don’t take footprint at all and only 5 steaks. Everything else is superfluous.
The Cloud Up 2 after the modifications, is still 400-500 grams lighter than both the Mongar 2 and Cloud Peak 2. The Mongar also has an all-mesh inner tent, while the Cloud Up has a half-mesh, and the Cloud Peak is bigger than I need for my solo adventures.
There are a lot of good quality tents out there that isn't expensive, and Naturehike is one of the brands that qualify their products on that list. The point of this video is to show some mods that just add a few nice features that makes it even better, for cost of maybe 20€. Why buy an expensive tent, when you can have a good one that doesn't cost very much? Not all of us has that money, and for most circumstances the high end performance tents aren't needed (yet still, the Cloud Up 2 does perform very well for its price range).
i got 2 mongar 2 for an one expensive branded tent that easily breaks ex poles, nature hike is all good and tested.. little modification makes the tent superb that than expensive ones :D
Ok, I love it when instead of complaining, people just modify things. I don’t think I've ever bought equipment that I didn't modify. Great ideas. I want to figure out how to add ventilation above the door or as part of the door like the cloud up 1 and 3 have. The two has the back vent which if you sleep with your head there, condensation is less. But I expel a ton of water vapor. So an extra vent might help.
Thank you so much! Yes, I mean there's not a single tent or piece of equipment that just does it all, but if there are small quirks that can be improved - why complain if you can simply modify them to get around it?😅 Yeah I've seen that they have that extra vent, and I've always figured it's because the 1 is really small and the 3 has more people giving off heat, but you are right that such a vent could benefit the 2 as well (especially for cooking!).
There will be some sewing for you, unless you turn it in to someone who's good at it, but seam sealing shouldn't be a proble, and some velcro and a "vent pole" to keep it a bit open like on the back vent, should be easy to add as well in the process.
I thought the door area is more open since it's a net, and the nylon cover stretches far away from it in a triangular form, so there's more space for air to vent. So, the back of the tent, if you choose to lay your head there- it is the place to have a condensation window. Does the Cloud 2 has that?
I have a similar model with a small window at the back side, yet it is placed around the middle of the tent. Not at the top. So, I'm worried it won't clear condensation as well since heat goes up. I bet it's better than nothing. Might get super hot without letting out hot breath air..
These were all great mods and I just got the tent in today and set it up for the first time and did all the mods you suggested first. I only did one modification to your clothesline idea but I only thought it of because of you. All I did instead of sewing in a loop is use two very tiny plastic binder clips and put them on the pocket so I didn't need to sew anything and loop it around the light hanger and to both clips to make 2 clotheslines. I'll just pop them off and put them in my peg bag after but they are tiny and not sharp. Thanks for these ideas. Brilliant !
That is awesome to hear, happy you found it helpful! And hey - really clever way of handling that clothesline, smart!
Is it a smart idea to place socks or other clothes inside the tent at the top? Won't all hot air/condensation dampen those clothes?
Is there another way to store the clothes at the end of the day? Especially after you washed them in a river or so?
Clothes line is genius 👌
Naturehike get a pen and write this down.
Good advice for tents of many brands, not only naturehike
Thank you!
This is so creative. Truly amazing!!!! Might try some of these things myself. Thanks!
Thank you so much, glad you liked it! Go for it, have fun!
Gracias por mostrar tus mejoras, ahora a modificar las tiendas.
Gracias, me alegro que te haya gustado! Diviértete ahí fuera!
Those are nice options. When I get that tent, based in other reviews, I would ad a connection point between inner and outer fly. In the mid high range on sides. So it connects to the mid side tie out point and get more side room inside.
That would be a very nice mod, definately! Just remember to seam seal that point on the flysheet, and then you'll have a great, roomy inside!😃
I just got the tent, watched your modifications before and will apply them
Great and simple ideas
@mihamaker: how would you solve the connection between outer and inner?
@@clsch7513 Thank you so much, you're gonna have a blast with this tent!
Really good inputs!
For me, the zippers were a setback, felt so weak n prone to damage, but you this idea is giving me hopes! I sincerely hope now that it's indeed the Naturehike stickered pullers where the problem lied and not the zippers! Thanks. Also, I was indeed missing a place to hand cloths, which is there in my other tents! Thanks
Happy you found the video useful! After I put the dyneema cord on the zippers, I haven't had any problems with them at all; they work great now!
thanks for taking the time for these tips buddy!
Thanks man, I'm just happy to be able to give some tips and help out!
Thnx for the bungee and zipper cord tip.
Happy that you found it useful!
Really good mods, thanks! I had this tent, and I loved it. I am thinking of getting another Naturehike tent, and what I really want to make is extra pockets inside the tent. That is something that is really missing in this tent. The pocket above the door of the inner tent is too small, and also things can fall out.
Thank you so much!
I agree that it would've been great to have side pockets in this tent, the top pocket is not deep enough for things really. But, I also don't think it's a deal breaker - actually, you could get away with something simple like getting a soft collapsable water bowl for dogs, and put it in the corner of the tent after you set it up and put your stuff in that instead of a pocket - guaranteed to protect your things from possible water on the floor after a leak, too.
Okay, thank you for the tip. Many greetings from Germany. Axel
Thank you found it useful! Have fun out there!
Awsome I also used bungee cord on the lower fly tie outs and a short piece of cordage that gives me two possibilities. A closer point and a farther point for better circulation.
That's a great feature to add!👏
Thank you for sharing your video and improvements to the tent. I own cloud up 2 and have purchased the 4mm bungee cord in bright green colour as part of your recommended improvements. Can you please advise what length the bungee loops are?
Best wishes
Adrian
I am really happy to hear that you found the video useful, thanks a lot!
If I remember correctly, I cut the bungee into 25-30 cm pieces in order to create the loops.☺
Very good! I will do the same to mine when I receive it. Thank you.
Thank you, that is really nice to hear! Have fun out there!
Awesome I will have a go at doing these
I really like your mods, most of which I am going to enact upon my Monger 2. My favourite is your mod to the door tie-backs. My biggest criticism go the Monger 2 is how rubbish the tie-backs are. Originally I attempted to replace them with magnets but I chose small magnets that simply aren't powerful enough. Your modification is simpler (and cheaper) and seems far more effective! Thank you Martin
Thanks a lot, that's great to hear! Yeah the tie-backs using toggles are not great (I mean, they function well if they have a tight fit, but that's not the case with this tent), but replacing them with the kind of string-stop worked really superb - the doors are now kept away like they are glued. Happy you liked the tips!
thank you , i like your modifications. You're so smart.
Thank you so much, I hope you have good use of it! ☺
I just brought one of these, I've seen another video suggesting an extra guy line attached to the rear vent, it stops the rear poles being lifted out of their holes in high wind. I will be doing his and your tips to mine as soon as I get it.
That is also a good tip - there are two attachment points for the "upper" guy line on the back; you could use the one above the rear vent for a longer guy line, and the attachment on the vent itself for a steeper angle line.
I hope you have great adventures with your new tent!
Please link that other vid
Thank you for the good ideas.
Just subscribed to your channel.
All the best.
Clive.
🤠
A big thank you, Clive!
Interesting mods, I guess I will use only the bungee rope on the ground sheet, the Cloud up 2 is copy of 3F UL Gear ZhengTu 2 Tent and those issues are not existent with mine original version, but faster staking of the groundsheet and aligning it easier with the tent is great idea.
Thank you! Yeah, it really makes a difference being able to staking out the groundsheet quickly, the bungee makes it so easy to tension properly. I don't know what the "corner ropes" are like on the ZhengTu 2, but having bungee on the corner staking points on the inner tent as well, makes it really easy to allign it afterwards.
Bra tips! Skall jag oxå göra när jag beställt mitt tält!
Tack, kul att du gillade idéerna! Det är ett riktigt bra tält, ha så kul med det där ute!🏕
Hi Martin, upgrades done with additional pegs purchased. You are right where the middle section of the fly sheet needs one separate peg and not shared with guy line sewn to centre of flysheet (otherwise fly sheet has a large gap between its skirt and ground). There is a mini guy line to tie down the middle section of the fly sheet (attached to skirt of the fly sheet). I found this fiddly and instead attached a short bungee loop. I would appreciate your feedback on this? . Thank you again for all your replies!
Hey there! I'm just really happy you found the video helpful, thank you!
It sounds like a really clever mod, to add a bungee to the fly sheet skirt, that will give a good secure point! I would recommend you to keep the original guy lines on the skirt too, though, as they give you more playroom for securing the pegs . And, securing the fly sheet low can definately be pleasant when it's a bit windy, so it doesn't become drafty inside the tent, but it can be good to "lift the skirt" more when the air is more still, as it increases the airflow and therefor reduce condensation.
Hi Martin, the mods were tested and glad to report worked!! Thank you again for your videos and guidance, it’s really appreciated. All the best Adrian - Dublin
@@adrianbyrne3413 I'm truly happy to hear that, Adrian! And hey anytime, I'm just glad to be able to help out a bit. Take care out there, and have fun!
All the best!
Absolutely brilliant thank you
Thanks a lot, man!
Enjoyed your video 🙂
Thank you!
Great tips. Thanks.
Excellent. I've subscribed
Thanks a lot!
Thanks for sharing!
Well Done.
Thank you!
These are amazing! I’ve just bought this tent based on your advice so thank you - I’m very excited to test it out whilst backpacking. But first I’m going to make your mods. Do you suggest putting the bungee loops on every anchor point (ie each guy line (8) (and even bottom skirt guy line (3) and the footprint & inner tent & vestibule)? What about adding rope tensioners to the bottom skirt guylines? Or replacing the guy lines with 4mm para cord -do you think that would be beneficial? Can’t wait to use it!!
Thanks a lot! Really glad to hear you found it useful, and you made a good choice of tent! I have only put bungee cord on:
- The 4 corners of the inner tent as well as on the ground sheet
- The two pegging points on the flysheet for creating the vestibule (actually three loops, but for two pegs since the door has one extra loop for securing it while closed if the weather is really harsch; I havent used that one, ever, but I did put bungee on it just in case, so three loops there).
I don't see it being necessary to put bungee on the guy lines, since you can tension them anyway. The lower guy lines, the "skirt lines", DO have their own tensioners - but they are not like the others, instead the actual anchor point on the skirt is the tensioner; you just pull the guy line on it after you have pegged the small loop down. You can see at 1:32 on the right, how I have tensioned the lower guy line by pulling the string from the skirt attachment point.
Regarding changing the guy lines to paracord, I can't really say. Yes the paracord offers some "stretching" which can be good when it's gusty since it's not ripping the anchor points, but it is also heavier and you need a lot of it for all the guy lines. The guy lines already attached are perfectly fine, and their reflective colors are such a bliss when you're out of the tent while it's dark and/or bad weather.
I hope this helps!
@@fiskmasadventures Helps?! This is INVALUABLE advice!!! Thanks so much for all your guidance. Makes perfect sense so I'm gonna make these mods exactly how you've suggested and will give feedback after ive tested it on the mountains 😊😊
@@brendonkassel6989 It makes me really happy to hear that, man, thank you! Have fun out there, and yes please I would love to hear your feedback on how it went! 😃
Really interesting, thank you!
Thanks a lot!
No bit of cord provided with the Cloud Up 2 is dyneema, it's all nylon. I don't know what material your additional clothesline is, but it does not have the slightly stiff look of dyneema-based string either. If it was dyneema, it would mean that you paid a couple of euros extra so that this piece of string would withstand pulls of approximately one ton, and may I suggest that your laundry doesn't need this kind of strength? Consider using a nylon or polypropylene string, which for the same dimensions are half as resistant for a tenth of the price.
“Dyneema” is not a synonym for “string” in a camping context, it's the name of a supremely strong but supremely expensive fiber. Dyneema can be used for making high-end ultralight strings for camping, and perhaps you heard someone use the word to refer to dyneema-based string in a mod where the string needed to be long and resistant enough that it mattered that it was dyneema rather than nylon in order to save grams. Dyneema is not present anywhere in any Naturehike tent, and I don't think it is used in your clothesline either.
(In dyneema cord it's not even the dyneema that is stiff, it's the very tightly woven polyester jacket required to protect the dyneema fibers in the center from abrasion.)
Thank you for the clarification! The cord I bought to create the clothesline was indeed dyneema, since I reckoned it was the same type as the provided guy lines. It wasn't very expensive, but I could certianly have gotten away cheaper.
dude thank you soo much!!
Thank you, man, I'm happy you found it useful!
Nice vid, thanks!
Thanks a lot!
Thank you!
Thank you 🖖👍
No problem, have fun out there!
wow really grade modifications! could you please tell me how long the bungee cord loops are individually roundabout? thanks and cheers :)
Thank you, that's nice to hear!😊 I think that I cut each bungee piece into 30 cm, so it was enough to create the knot and still have a good sized loop!
many thanks for your reply. that helps me a lot.
@@fiskmasadventures
@@ikanuraNo problem at all, just happy to help out!☺
😀👌Vart har du köpt bungycorden och dom andra grejerna
De köpte jag på friluftstyger.se! 😀
@@fiskmasadventures tack så mycket 😀👌
@@andreashermansson5217 Ingen fara alls!😃
These are very good ideas! How long/often have you used it and is this your only tent?
Cheers
Thanks a lot! No, I have several tents, but this is one of the two that I use frequently. I got it back in 2021, and it's still going strong. All the trips I've used it on, are on my channel! :)
Nice idea...
Hi Martin. By fitting bungee cords to all the anchoring points on the footprint, will that affect stability and make the tent less stable and fixed to ground in windy conditions? Thank you.
Hi! I would dare to say it would not affect stability in wind. Yes, it can stretch, but it also means you can peg the anchoring points with better tension (in most conditions) since you can stretch out the bungee pretty good before anchoring it. So, you can practically tension it better using the bungee than with the dyneema, making the ground sheet more stable.
Hi Martin, thank you for your reply. Your comments make sense and I will leave the bungee cords attached to tent. Thank you again for sharing your advice and guidance, it’s appreciated. Chat later - Adrian (Ireland)
@@adrianbyrne3413 Anytime, Adrian, I'm happy to be able to help out a little bit! Have a good one and have fun out there! Chat later.
Greetings Martin. Good video and very good ideas for improvement.
I do not have the tent, I am thinking of buying for the next occasion that is at a better price.
One more improvement if possible and perhaps one of the most important. Would it be possible to sew a line with two hooks from the inner tent to the side tensioners of the outer 20d fabric? That way there would be more width at shoulder height, don't you think?
I have been watching videos of the tent from the inside and I think it is compatible to sew a two-part fabric tape with a plastic hook, from the separation of the two materials that make up the interior fabric, to the tensioning reinforcement of the fabric on the inside. 20d nylon but on the inside. At those two points the material is stronger.
Sorry for my english. I'm spanish.
Thank you, I'm happy you found it helpful! I can definately recommend this tent, you would not go wrong to get it.
I get your idea, and it's a really good one. I think the height of where the mesh meets the nylon on the inner tent is about the right height to do that, and since the guy line on the outside already has a reinforced fabric section, it could be possible to sew in a hook on the inside there too (but then you have to seam seal the stitches). However, i would not say that I have experienced the shoulder width to be too narrow. Maybe it would be that in the Cloud Up 1, but in this it's pretty spacious. The problem with hooks like you describe, is that it could be a little tricky to attach them, considering the order of how the tent is raised - but absolutely not impossible.
If you get the tent, you will very quickly get the feeling of whether the width is enough or if you want more - if you want that, I think your idea sounds like a great solution!
@@fiskmasadventures It would not be necessary to sew, just bite, With a crocodile hook for each end of 10cm of tape or paracord.
should i positione the cloud up with the back or the front in the wind for a maximum of stability?
I'd say you should put the back against the wind, so the entrance is facing away from the wind direction. That way you get the most narrow wedge of the tent facing the wind, and you can open the door and use the entrance normally since it's sheltered by the tent body.
I love the mods. Quick question is it normal for the fly sheet to be so far off the ground? Does the draft not get in a lot?
Thank you, happy you like it! You are right, when it's windy it can feel a bit drafty inside, when you peg out the lower guy lines together with the higher ones. That's why I added 3 extra pegs, so I can peg out the lower ones closer to the tent in order to make the gap smaller.
But, it should also be added that even though the gap creates draft in windy conditions, the inner tent helps with the fact only the upper half is mesh (you feel the draft, but through created vortex and not straight wind). The positive side of it, is that the increased airflow with the gap helps you a lot with reducing the condensation.
Just got my new cloud up 2 tent and I have just put it up in the garden. The only thing that I can not figure out is a small clip halfway back on the inside tent. I think it must be to do with pulling the inside tent out to stop any sagging of the tent walls on the inside . There is a small clip like the ones at each corner but what connects to it?
Congratulations to your new tent! And yes you're absolutely right, the little clip connects to a small clip on the flysheet (lower bottom), and when you tension the lower guy line on the side, that clip makes sure the inner tent isn't sagging along the sides (and also gives some support against the inner tent flapping in from wind).
great ideas, do you spray with any waterproofing?
Thank you! No, I have only relied on the waterproofing from the factory, which has been very reliable.
@@fiskmasadventures ok thanks, happy hiking !!
Can you say what you found to be the best length for each tie-down bungee loops?
That's a great question, actually. I think that I cut the bungee into ~30 cm pieces, so that when the bungee is tied into the loop, the "inner length" of the loop is about 12 cm or so (because of the knot and ends).
@@fiskmasadventures what knot did you use to tie the bungee?
@@ascetik I honestly have no idea what it's called, but it's the same basic knot as I used on the dyneema cord for the doors and that was used for the dyneema loops that the bungee replaced (check the close-up at 2:01). You see it more clearly on the bungee itself at 2:30.
Mine only has one guyline on the back? There are two hooks at the back of the fly to attach guylines to but it only came with 5 total guylines, which I'm using two on the front, two on the sides and one on the back.
So I should only need an additional two pegs, right? Do I really need an upper and lower guyline on the back?
That is interesting! I also have two guy line hooks at the back (one on the vent flap, and one above it), but I also got mine with a second guy line for the bottom fabric tie point on the back, just like the ones on the sides that you see at 1:33 . You don't have that low one on the back? In case you don't - then yes, you only need to additional pegs. In case you do, I would recommend one extra for the back as well, since the low "lip" might flap a bit in the wind.
Great video. Do you put bungee cord on the bottom mat as well?
Thank you! Yes, both on the ground mat and the inner tent corners!
How ecstacy you sew on this ring?
By hand. Attaching it to the fabric that covers the outer end of the top pocket, by "looping" the thread like when you're attaching an emblem to a jacket by hand (but only stitching in one spot).
how much bungee cord did you use for the tent ? I'm going to buy some for my tent now, but I don't want to buy too much :P
I ordered 4 m of cord, had propably about 1 m left afterwards if not more. So 4 m is plenty enough!🙂
@@fiskmasadventures hi great video did you order the 6mm cord or 8 mm ?. thanks
@@fenster1142 Thank you! For the corners, I used 4 mm bungee - it's plenty strong enough!
приветствую, отличные рекомендации.
Thank you!
nice mods!
Glad you liked them!
👍 well done. 🍺🍺
❤❤❤
No! I will pitch my tent ⛺️ in my hotel 🏨 room on top of my bed 🛌🧙♂️
If you wanted to make your tent heavier, then why not immediately buy a Mongar or Cloud Peak? I don’t take footprint at all and only 5 steaks. Everything else is superfluous.
The Cloud Up 2 after the modifications, is still 400-500 grams lighter than both the Mongar 2 and Cloud Peak 2. The Mongar also has an all-mesh inner tent, while the Cloud Up has a half-mesh, and the Cloud Peak is bigger than I need for my solo adventures.
The point of this video os dont buy a cheap crappy chinese tent otherwise you'll have to mod it evrywhere, just buy a good quality tent!
There are a lot of good quality tents out there that isn't expensive, and Naturehike is one of the brands that qualify their products on that list.
The point of this video is to show some mods that just add a few nice features that makes it even better, for cost of maybe 20€.
Why buy an expensive tent, when you can have a good one that doesn't cost very much? Not all of us has that money, and for most circumstances the high end performance tents aren't needed (yet still, the Cloud Up 2 does perform very well for its price range).
i got 2 mongar 2 for an one expensive branded tent that easily breaks ex poles, nature hike is all good and tested.. little modification makes the tent superb that than expensive ones :D
Leelee You have no idea what you’re talking about
"Cheap crappy Chinese tent" = 150
Modifications= 20
150+20 = 170
Equivalent Big Agnes tent
= 400+
No contest for someone on a budget