Subaru timing belt Legacy Outback 2011 2010 SOHC 2.5
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- Опубліковано 27 гру 2017
- How to change the timing belt on a Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT. Subau Outback will be the same. This is for a 2011 but other years might be identical. Sorry in advance for not being able to show every step. No cameraman, tripod and the fact that it took me a long time to complete this job meant the video would be very long. I also did not show re-assembly but if you follow along to the end re-assembly is pretty much reverse of everything.
Aisin TKF-006 Engine from Amazon www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKF-006-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B00CMWCP5M/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=subaru+timing+belt+kit&qid=1573672468&sr=8-5
It would have been nice to see the final move to install the timing belt, other videos point out which pulley to use and how to slip it on and it sounds like it can be a little tricky.
I was about to buy the Aisin kit but looking at the condition of your serpentine belt and timing belt and comparing to my own at 123k and 10 years old, I am going to say forget it. They look great. If my timing belt slips/skips/snaps I'll report back what mileage it was at.
You do realize if it snaps your head's toast right
@@MrJoshEddie Yes I understand what an interference engine is.
I JUST finished mine. It was at 160K, stealership assured me over and over that it was replaced... low and behold its OE from the factory. My timing belt was a timing band because it was so worn down. It felt like plastic! Hopefully all has went well for you!
Hi I hear whistling sound from my 2010 forester coming from passenger side. Any guess what that can cause that ?
I did the cam belt on my 2001 Outback years ago and now my 2011 is due. Based on your video, it doesn't look like the job has changed much since the '01 (except maybe the water pump design). How long did it take you? I recall the '01 taking pretty much the full weekend.
The biggest difference will probably be the serpentine belt tensioner. So it will probably be even easier than the 01. It took me about 6 hours but I took my time and had rather sore arms afterwards because I should have taken breaks. The hardest part was trying to figure out how the clips on the fans worked and to get them unplugged. I had the advantage of working at the factory that built these engines so I deal with these on a daily basis and knew my way around. I probably already had my hands on both your 2001 and 2011 engine.
Hey. Could you please post the kit you bought in the description?
Aisin TKF-006 The serpentine belt was purchased separately.
Firstly, thanks very much for posting this video. It gives me a much better idea of what is involved with a TB on these vehicles.
I have worked on previous cars (mainly volvo's) but never done a timing belt. I've fairly recently bought a 2010 Outback and haven't done any diy on it yet. I am due for a timing belt at the next service so deciding whether I tackle it or leave it to the mechanic. From what I've seen in this video, it looks achievable, but fairly involved.
I have a few questions that I hope you may be willing to answer:
- Can you recommend a source (service book etc) for detailed information on both the water pump replacement and the timing belt? Looking for things like torque specs, order of assembly etc.
- How did the water pump installation go?
- I note that you refer to the spark plugs being a pain to change. From looking at my vehicle, and from the video at ua-cam.com/video/mCF5n5mDyJo/v-deo.html it doesn't look too difficult, so I'd be keen to hear more of your experience before I try to do it myself.
- When you checked the timing marks before removing the old belt, did you rotate the engine to get them in the right spot before you started?
Thanks, John
I recommend the aisin kit from amazon. It comes with a sheet of instructions with torque specs on it but I don't remember if water pump tq is on there. Getting the water pump on was only slightly tricky it needs to slide in straight because of the rubber gaskets on the side. I put a little oil on them to help them slide. Honestly the spark plugs weren't that bad just a little cramped, but I was worried that the compression of the cyls (with spark plugs still in) would make the crank hard to turn or make it spring back while i was trying to align the marks. This was not really a problem. I did align the marks on the pulleys before I removed the old belt and was very careful to not touch the cam pulleys to move them. I did not rotate the crank to line up the marks on the belt to the marks on the pulleys. I don't even remember if they were still visible. I just rotated until the marks on the pulleys lined up then removed the belt and hoped the marks on the new belt would go on right and they did. I should also mention that in order to get to the drain plug on the radiator I drilled a hole in the plastic and put a phillips screwdriver through the hole to reach the drain.