You do amazing work. The frustrations you expressed about the framing remind me that even a master craftsman can have "regrets". Thank you for this amazing ongoing series.
The kitchen is really coming together quite nicely, Matt. Trust me, no one but you will ever notice the crown in that one corner. Love inspector Eloise popping her head in there at the end 👍
Matt, I had some similar problems due to lousy framers, and I discovered this during a kitchen remodel. I had crown installed and was kind of relieved to see how just bending the wood gently over several feet was fine (and I’m such a perfectionist). And mine was stained cherry, so more difficult to hide, while you have painted surfaces. I’m sure it will be beautiful!
Your commentary installing crown is spot on. Another aid when the prints call for crown is to pull a string across the ceiling joists before drywall goes up. This will give you a heads up about challenges when installing trim. This doesn't solve everything but it is a quick way to evaluate if you elect to add shims, add blocking, or just deal with it when installing trim.
After doing some remodel jobs on my own house, I have found that I am the only one that notices things like the issue that you are having now. You came up with an excellent fix. Others will be so blown away with the finished product and will never notice it.
The crown makes all the difference to the rooms. You and Donavan did a wonderful job of marrying three lots of disparate construction, and after all, moldings are designed to cover sins.
A few things that I find improve the results with crown moulding. 1. Be sure to finish the back as well. It will be more stable and less likely to cup and warp. It is very hard to cut accurate joints otherwise. 2. If your crown is in contact with the ceiling, be sure your ceiling and cabinets are both level. It is a pain in the butt to level out the ceiling with mud at this point, but it might be the best option. Filling voids with caulking doesn't work very well and you will have cracks open with seasonal wood movement. 3. As much as possible, joints should be made with the same piece of wood. For example, if you had a 10’ length, starting from the left, cut a 2’ piece off that has an outside mitre on the right, you should then cut the mating right hand mitre from the left side of the remaining 8’ length. This gives you the best chance to have precise mitres. Trying to create nice mitres from two different pieces, that behave differently with seasonal movement is difficult. Try to transition to new pieces at inside mitres. You can tinker and tweak them more than outside mitres. They are more forgiving. 4. Make a good support table for your mitres saw. I hope someone finds that helpful.
My brother, who was a contractor and developer told me a good carpenter was not someone who never makes a mistake, a good carpenter is one who can cover up his mistakes !!!!!!!!!!!!
Love how the kitchen edition is going along; I really like how you show the problems, and then comment on your thought process to fix them and then the actual fix
Nothing white caulk wouldn’t fix. 🤣🤣 kidding of coarse. You are a great problem solver, and the end results show that. (And you have a lot more patience than most people,including myself)👍
I love this kitchen project! Did I miss what type of wood he's using for the crown? That power feeder is killer, what a great way to make sure the back cuts are all the same
The details of installing the molding is incredible. When you hear of the cost of custom installs it sounds ridiculous but then you see this. Great stuff.
You've no idea how my heart sang when you decided you were happy with that length! Am mightily releived for you - it's really coming together beautifully. 🥰💯
Half inch of a good caulk would fix that gap pretty gooder. 🤣 I think your solution worked just fine. At some point, you have to stop trimming the trim that trims the trim.
Thank you for pointing out the complexity of proper framing. While simple in concept, in practice it can be quite challenging. A quarter inch out of plumb a half inch out of level can have consequent complications which require highly skilled craftmanship to overcome. Your wall and floor scribe techniques previously demonstrated are but one way to overcome framing irregularities. Once upon a time plasterers made up for framing difficulties but those days are largely gone.
Depending on what stage your cabinet doors are in you could “grow” them a bit as you move to the outside wall to hid the gap between the crown as well.
with cabinet doors on, you'll never notice. good decision in the end. i appreciate your desire for perfection, but proud of you for forgiving yourself and being able to see...it doesn't matter in the end
It is not necessarily my style of kitchen. But I love to see the dedication and precision with which you do the work. And then sometimes it is a bit crooked. but there also lies the fun/challenge to make the best of it. The hardest part is not to point it out to anyone! Keep up the good work!
I like what you did in the uneven area above the cabinets, my house is pretty wonky from settling, and I know when I do my upper cabinets it's going to be uneven, but the way you did it, it's not really noticable, nice! 😊👍
I can understand why I haven't seen crown moulding in a house after about 1920 with as difficult as it is to install. Well done, Matt. Not an easy task to undertake.
I am sorry got carried away but what I was thinking was how about a shadow line holding it off all around watching your gaps to keep them close with blocks ?
As a cabinet installer, this is par for the course. "Rough framing" should be done as fast and cheap as possible . Usually the worst spots on the vertical, are where beams are added with hangers..which causes a bulge. One job on a remodal, had floor 3" out of level. So new flooring was removed and it was leveled after base cabinets were set. Most of the shims were lost. Next came the ceiling which was only 4" out. Rome wasn't built in a day.
One way to determine if the rooms and walls are built perfectly square. Thoses crown moldings 45 degree cuts wouldn't perfectly match up if off square. Takes a real artist to make it work.
I have a Woodmaster Moulder to make my crown Moulding. It takes two runs, first is the back angles and then the cove cut. I can run both cutters on my Woodmaster so you run the back cut and then run the cove cut side by side next to the other cutter.
The challenge with buildings etc - is we draw them in elevation, but when they are built, we see them in perspective. I.E. things that are parallel in elevation - are divergent/convergent to our eyes. Back in the day, we used a water level to set the sistered 2X furring on the sides of the out of level joists - and it does save headaches later.
Now you know when you invite all of us to the reno completion party we’re all going to go over to that corner and whisper amongst ourselves. Brings me to my next point, where the heck is my invitation anyway?
One of the first jobs that I had as an apprentice was to install drywall backing in the basement joists with a hammer mind you ( before nailers were prevalent) needless to say I was very aware if any was missing when we were framing
I would fill the ceiling gap with 1/4 plywood with attached blocks thar fit in the gap. This would create an illusion of the ceiling being “normal” unless specifically looking for an error.
another possible solution comes to mind from the way you discovered it in the 1st place,measuring from the cabinets.Perhaps you could have pinched a smidgen off the overhead cabinets by changing their heights or even angles(a fraction of a degree) reducing the gap or at least making it more even across the whole length🙂
I considered making the top of the cabinet angled when I did the layout for it but building an out of square cabinet and doors sounded less appealing than hiding it in the trim
To save the anxiety of having first world problems....One of my Dad's sayings was "shoulda, woulda, coulda"....the next time you come across a first world problem...remember these words...it really does make you feel better.
Nice job of manufacturing your crown molding never an easy DIY to get right. However most framers know by the ceiling problems like you are now facing that kitchens and any rooms with wall cabinets that go to ceiling and or crown moldings must have flat ceilings. The expirenced assiciate you had working with you during the framing should in my opinion have pointed this detail during rough build out to you. A remedy you could cut long angled shims every 12" attach (glue) to angled ceiling area and cover with 1/4" sheetrock and this would level the ceiling w/o having to demo existing ceiling only heavy mud would be feather at end of 1/4" sheet rock which will work. Your kitchen is custom spectacular to coin a new phrase it is really furniture grade. Ray
We assume you did not have 220v 3ph for that molding cutter. So the bed could have a vacuum bed? Just need a few pneumatic rolling hands for pressure when and where needed. a good Powermatic PM9 3ph shaper 7.5 hp is $14 grand new is that tooling capable vs your style? Can even a small unit be justified vs running 1 hour of an industrial place which 460V like your chair seat scoopers co. instead
Usually ceiling guy doesn’t care about trim guy. In this case it’s the same guy. lol. But great solve with the 1/4”. Most guys will not even mud and leave the 1/2” blaming it on ceiling guy. Once doors are on the cabinetry the 1/4” will not be noticeable to even the cabinet guy.
I am weird I admit but as a finish carpenter I thought that Moulding Machine was the bomb ! I hv looked at them but I am so crammed for space ! What a great job Matt ! By the way I had a customer fire me over crown and also a GC over crown ! 1 st was an alomost 100 yr old farm kitchen where I did 48 doors refitted with hidden hinges , several pullout and crown ! Well they both thought I was taking to long and a 16th “ gap or less was unacceptable? I told them I was not done ( it was tacked up with pins while I mulled a solution) . So I left cut $3000 off the bill ( I did not hv to they were under contract). He said he would finish the crown ? So a month later I asked for so pics? He blocked me ?? In 16 yrs only two unhappy ppl not bad ?
You do amazing work. The frustrations you expressed about the framing remind me that even a master craftsman can have "regrets". Thank you for this amazing ongoing series.
Don't worry, no one will ever notice when its all done and painted. Thanks for the videos.
See though, that’s the difference between a craftsmen and everyone else. That attention to detail sets them apart. Great job Matt!
The kitchen is really coming together quite nicely, Matt. Trust me, no one but you will ever notice the crown in that one corner. Love inspector Eloise popping her head in there at the end 👍
Matt, I had some similar problems due to lousy framers, and I discovered this during a kitchen remodel. I had crown installed and was kind of relieved to see how just bending the wood gently over several feet was fine (and I’m such a perfectionist). And mine was stained cherry, so more difficult to hide, while you have painted surfaces. I’m sure it will be beautiful!
I think because of the range hood and you are white on white, it's going to be good to go😊
Your commentary installing crown is spot on.
Another aid when the prints call for crown is to pull a string across the ceiling joists before drywall goes up. This will give you a heads up about challenges when installing trim. This doesn't solve everything but it is a quick way to evaluate if you elect to add shims, add blocking, or just deal with it when installing trim.
After doing some remodel jobs on my own house, I have found that I am the only one that notices things like the issue that you are having now. You came up with an excellent fix. Others will be so blown away with the finished product and will never notice it.
The crown makes all the difference to the rooms. You and Donavan did a wonderful job of marrying three lots of disparate construction, and after all, moldings are designed to cover sins.
Beautiful work and a Very patient wife.
I love watching a perfectionist woodworker do home construction! :)
A few things that I find improve the results with crown moulding.
1. Be sure to finish the back as well. It will be more stable and less likely to cup and warp. It is very hard to cut accurate joints otherwise.
2. If your crown is in contact with the ceiling, be sure your ceiling and cabinets are both level. It is a pain in the butt to level out the ceiling with mud at this point, but it might be the best option. Filling voids with caulking doesn't work very well and you will have cracks open with seasonal wood movement.
3. As much as possible, joints should be made with the same piece of wood. For example, if you had a 10’ length, starting from the left, cut a 2’ piece off that has an outside mitre on the right, you should then cut the mating right hand mitre from the left side of the remaining 8’ length. This gives you the best chance to have precise mitres. Trying to create nice mitres from two different pieces, that behave differently with seasonal movement is difficult. Try to transition to new pieces at inside mitres. You can tinker and tweak them more than outside mitres. They are more forgiving.
4. Make a good support table for your mitres saw.
I hope someone finds that helpful.
My brother, who was a contractor and developer told me a good carpenter was not someone who never makes a mistake, a good carpenter is one who can cover up his mistakes !!!!!!!!!!!!
Love how the kitchen edition is going along; I really like how you show the problems, and then comment on your thought process to fix them and then the actual fix
The illusion is complete. Masterful. Peace
Perfection is not easy; you are close! 🎉
Congratulations on a tedious job expertly well done! Those were some amazing shots of how you did the molding of the crown!
Very elegant crown mouldings, Matthew. Thank heaven for your collection system, or you'd be up to your knees in wood chips!
That blade you're using sure gives a nice smooth cut !!
Nothing white caulk wouldn’t fix. 🤣🤣 kidding of coarse. You are a great problem solver, and the end results show that. (And you have a lot more patience than most people,including myself)👍
This whole remodel has been great content, especially the kitchen, floor and sunroom. I’m anxious to see it finished but also sad for it to be over.
I love this kitchen project! Did I miss what type of wood he's using for the crown? That power feeder is killer, what a great way to make sure the back cuts are all the same
Looks like poplar.
Yes
So…where you rolled the crown to hide the gap did you have to fudge the coped piece over the windows to compensate?
It's maple IIRC.
@@supergimp2000 yes, it’s twisted
Really finishes it off. Another check mark.
The details of installing the molding is incredible. When you hear of the cost of custom installs it sounds ridiculous but then you see this. Great stuff.
Looking good Matt. A step closer to being done and being able to get back to making furniture and sawing slabs.
Hindsight's a wonderful thing Matt.... don't fret over trivialities.......😉......you won't notice the join after a few months 😂
You've no idea how my heart sang when you decided you were happy with that length! Am mightily releived for you - it's really coming together beautifully. 🥰💯
I love architectural trim work. My favorite for making the biggest impact is by far crown. Lookin good Matt!
Half inch of a good caulk would fix that gap pretty gooder. 🤣
I think your solution worked just fine.
At some point, you have to stop trimming the trim that trims the trim.
Great job Matt.❤ I always loved doing finish carpentry because it showed off my craftsmanship, which I'm sure you can relate..
Love the way you work directly on top of the new island bench top, Matt!?
That's called hindsight. The room is looking good.
Looks like the carpenter's equivalent of the old adage that a day in the library can save a month's work in the laboratory.
Looks awesome. I fabricate alloys and measure to the 64th. It's nice to see a wood worker with the same standards.
Instead of filling the high spote with 1/2 inch of mud I might have stuck up an extra layer of 1/2 inch board. But it looks good the way you did it.
Thanks Matt for always posting an awesome and inspiring video.
Beautiful job 👏 Thanks for sharing!😊
Greetings from the BIG SKY of Montana. Crown moulding is a treat for all those onlookers.
Thank you for pointing out the complexity of proper framing. While simple in concept, in practice it can be quite challenging. A quarter inch out of plumb a half inch out of level can have consequent complications which require highly skilled craftmanship to overcome. Your wall and floor scribe techniques previously demonstrated are but one way to overcome framing irregularities. Once upon a time plasterers made up for framing difficulties but those days are largely gone.
Depending on what stage your cabinet doors are in you could “grow” them a bit as you move to the outside wall to hid the gap between the crown as well.
They’re inset. The door opening would also need to change
Looking great Matt!
Spilt milk, does not matter. You are very good at finding a solution !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope your wife is appreciative of the jewel she has in you. You are one of a kind. Your workmanship is impeccable. ❤❤❤❤❤
Awesome work Matt! 😃👍🏼👊🏼
with cabinet doors on, you'll never notice. good decision in the end. i appreciate your desire for perfection, but proud of you for forgiving yourself and being able to see...it doesn't matter in the end
It is not necessarily my style of kitchen. But I love to see the dedication and precision with which you do the work. And then sometimes it is a bit crooked. but there also lies the fun/challenge to make the best of it. The hardest part is not to point it out to anyone! Keep up the good work!
I like what you did in the uneven area above the cabinets, my house is pretty wonky from settling, and I know when I do my upper cabinets it's going to be uneven, but the way you did it, it's not really noticable, nice! 😊👍
I can understand why I haven't seen crown moulding in a house after about 1920 with as difficult as it is to install. Well done, Matt. Not an easy task to undertake.
I always tell my wife, you'll stop looking up over time as your life takes over and you're doing things at eye level!
Wow it looks so beautiful ❤
That looks SO good!
Beautiful Matt. Beautiful.
Looks great, only you can see that difference. 😊
Looks great, thank you for sharing
Have you thought about a medallion ceiling? Could hide a lot of sins Matthew. Kitchen is coming along very nicely sir.
LOVED THIS
I am sorry got carried away but what I was thinking was how about a shadow line holding it off all around watching your gaps to keep them close with blocks ?
Often when you put aside a problem, it allows your subconscious an opportunity to come up with solutions.
Love it so much keep it up as always 💘
Dunivan's and Hussie.... just waiting the whole video for you to make a pun there..such self control.
As a cabinet installer, this is par for the course.
"Rough framing" should be done as fast and cheap as possible .
Usually the worst spots on the vertical, are where beams are added with hangers..which causes a bulge.
One job on a remodal, had floor 3" out of level.
So new flooring was removed and it was leveled after base cabinets were set. Most of the shims were lost. Next came the ceiling which was only 4" out.
Rome wasn't built in a day.
One way to determine if the rooms and walls are built perfectly square. Thoses crown moldings 45 degree cuts wouldn't perfectly match up if off square. Takes a real artist to make it work.
OSHA gonna Inspect your Steel Toe Socks Matt. 😂
Whaddya mean socks?! He's got steel toes 🤣🤣
dont need steel toe socks as long as they are hi-viz orange
@@darylthomas4522 lol
Looks great
I usually cut crown flat.
Thanks for showing how to fix a mistake
changing the spring angle with just the 1/4" reveal is how I do it.
I have a Woodmaster Moulder to make my crown Moulding. It takes two runs, first is the back angles and then the cove cut. I can run both cutters on my Woodmaster so you run the back cut and then run the cove cut side by side next to the other cutter.
Nice job perfect😁
I always had an easy solution for the ceiling moving. Use MDF crown and bend it. Done.
The challenge with buildings etc - is we draw them in elevation, but when they are built, we see them in perspective. I.E. things that are parallel in elevation - are divergent/convergent to our eyes.
Back in the day, we used a water level to set the sistered 2X furring on the sides of the out of level joists - and it does save headaches later.
Now you know when you invite all of us to the reno completion party we’re all going to go over to that corner and whisper amongst ourselves. Brings me to my next point, where the heck is my invitation anyway?
One of the first jobs that I had as an apprentice was to install drywall backing in the basement joists with a hammer mind you ( before nailers were prevalent) needless to say I was very aware if any was missing when we were framing
Every time I come to your house for dinner I am going to point out that 1/4 to you below the crown.😁
Great job…
I wonder if an omnidirectional captive bearing like they used for material handling could be inverted into the cove of the moulding as a hold down.
Very NICE
Nice❤
I would fill the ceiling gap with 1/4 plywood with attached blocks thar fit in the gap. This would create an illusion of the ceiling being “normal” unless specifically looking for an error.
another possible solution comes to mind from the way you discovered it in the 1st place,measuring from the cabinets.Perhaps you could have pinched a smidgen off the overhead cabinets by changing their heights or even angles(a fraction of a degree) reducing the gap or at least making it more even across the whole length🙂
That was my original plan but people on IG talked me off the ledge
@@mcremona the best job in the end,happy builder(you) happy customer(you again)🙂
I'm telling you right now, if you invite me over for dinner I'm gonna point that gap difference out. LOL 😂😂
pre-made crown isn't cut at a 90 (ceiling to wall) so that you have a 'fudge' factor
Matt in the future PL 375 does not expand like PL 400? I know sometimes in those exact moments nothing can move !
It is looking so spiffy.
Beautiful. I love a big cove crown!
Is epoxy on the miters better than wood glue in this case?
Could you taper the top of the cabinet doors to make up that 1/4" difference?
I considered making the top of the cabinet angled when I did the layout for it but building an out of square cabinet and doors sounded less appealing than hiding it in the trim
To save the anxiety of having first world problems....One of my Dad's sayings was "shoulda, woulda, coulda"....the next time you come across a first world problem...remember these words...it really does make you feel better.
To make mistakes is human. To repeat them is.......
Nice job of manufacturing your crown molding never an easy DIY to get right. However most framers know by the ceiling problems like you are now facing that kitchens and any rooms with wall cabinets that go to ceiling and or crown moldings must have flat ceilings. The expirenced assiciate you had working with you during the framing should in my opinion have pointed this detail during rough build out to you. A remedy you could cut long angled shims every 12" attach (glue) to angled ceiling area and cover with 1/4" sheetrock and this would level the ceiling w/o having to demo existing ceiling only heavy mud would be feather at end of 1/4" sheet rock which will work. Your kitchen is custom spectacular to coin a new phrase it is really furniture grade. Ray
We assume you did not have 220v 3ph for that molding cutter. So the bed could have a vacuum bed? Just need a few pneumatic rolling hands for pressure when and where needed. a good Powermatic PM9 3ph shaper 7.5 hp is $14 grand new is that tooling capable vs your style? Can even a small unit be justified vs running 1 hour of an industrial place which 460V like your chair seat scoopers co. instead
I think becasue you have the cooker hood in the middle of the run it is not so noticeable.
In the Gsps let the Paiter work his Magic ! 😅
should have used plaster of pairs moulding a fraction of price and time .nice job all the same
Don't worry Matt, all of these things will come easier to you when you do your next house. 🤣
Would a slight taper on the right cabinet door help hide that in combination with all the other slight adjustments?
Door opening would have to have been made at that angle
@@mcremona oh yes. I was thinking the doors would have a lip on them. Not flush fit. I know there are certain terms for that but … oh well
Usually ceiling guy doesn’t care about trim guy. In this case it’s the same guy. lol. But great solve with the 1/4”. Most guys will not even mud and leave the 1/2” blaming it on ceiling guy. Once doors are on the cabinetry the 1/4” will not be noticeable to even the cabinet guy.
As my dad would have said “ a blind man on a galloping horse would be glad to see that mistake!”
I am weird I admit but as a finish carpenter I thought that Moulding Machine was the bomb ! I hv looked at them but I am so crammed for space ! What a great job Matt ! By the way I had a customer fire me over crown and also a GC over crown ! 1 st was an alomost 100 yr old farm kitchen where I did 48 doors refitted with hidden hinges , several pullout and crown ! Well they both thought I was taking to long and a 16th “ gap or less was unacceptable? I told them I was not done ( it was tacked up with pins while I mulled a solution) . So I left cut $3000 off the bill ( I did not hv to they were under contract).
He said he would finish the crown ?
So a month later I asked for so pics? He blocked me ??
In 16 yrs only two unhappy ppl not bad ?
❤❤❤❤❤
Hi Matt I have a giant elm tree that I would like to take down next spring and send the trunk to you
You will be the only one that notices a small difference in the reveal, everyone else will see the entire kitchen and not the small detail.
Why wouldn't you put down a drop cloth or something to protect those fancy counters from scratches and chips?
If they can’t handle this, there’s no way they will be able to handle daily life
@@mcremona Good perspective I suppose!
Is the lumber you used store bought or did you cut and dry it yourself?
I bought it. I don’t saw for mill work