On the impact driver issue mentioned a few times below: I've used pocket hole screws quite a bit over the years although way less often than a professional finished carpenter. I've never used anything else other than an impact driver. I've never split a board or noticed a problem. I used them exactly as was done in this video. One advantage for me is that I use the drill bit in my standard drill and the square hole driver in my impact driver so I don't need to change bits as I work.
oh man you saved me a whole lot of headache! I had spent 4 hours yesterday sawing, pocketholing and sanding mdf for 2 radiator covers. my first joint today fell apart if you just looked at it and I was afraid I could throw out all my work and start again with multiplex. Thank goodness I have a Kreg faceclamp and by working very carefully and reinforcing some of the weaker joints with extra strips of multiplex nailed to the back (nobody will be the wiser) my first cover is ready for some last bits of trim routing and then primer and paint. Thank you!
In the summer I built a bunch of wainscoting using 4x8 sheets of MDF from home depot, and it did not split once when joining the rails and the stiles. But then I switched to a different supplier of MDF sheets for a job I am working on now, and it split every time even with face clamps. Luckily it still held strong since I glued it. If it wasn't the supplier difference it could be because the material was quite warm in the summer when I did the first one.
Great Job. I learned these tips early on. I use the Kreg plate with the hole in it for the clamp. I don’t attach it to anything like a bench I just move it to where I need it. That way you have a very large back to clamp to.
Good video THANK YOU What glue do you use to connect MDF? I tried a super sticky activator, it didn't go very well. Joining with screws is due to cracking of the material. I use 19 mm thick MDF
Thank you! So simple, but friggin brilliant! This actually solved my issues with pieces not lining up while driving the screws. But clamping the pieces from both sides verses clamping to a table is the perfect solution!
Hi, I bought pocket hole jig few weeks ago and its really awesome! But in Russia, it's not easy to buy original Kreg screws, or they cost too much - I'm using flat head screws (or bugle screws - not sure how to translate correctly) with M4 spacers and they give me the good results. Thanks for your video!
I've seen people try to use drywall screws instead of the Kreg screws, or similar flat bottom screws. The bugle head on a drywall screw will try to split open the material as it goes in. That's why Kreg gives you a flat shoulder on the drill bit and a flat bottom on the head of the screw.
The biggest problem with drywall screws is no self tapping. I've used flat head screws in an emergency for pocket holes and they work. You just gotta be super careful and clamp the faces just like this guy did. Most important is self tapping
I dgreatly appreciate your videos... your expertise and attention to detail has trully help me out when DIY ing finish capentry... If you ever consider visiting Canada, more specifically eastern Canada, i'de like to invite you as a guest speaker for a DIY symposium... keep up the great video and dont forget to smile :) Mike de Canada
Richard your a true gangsta (the complimentary kind) your videos have help me on my home. I have followed you for some time now. My bride is prego and wants me to do wainscoting all over the house now! If I was in the Ftw area I’d buy you some tacos and chill with you and your camera guy.
I'm in the same field and man... my old bosses and colleagues were lazy. I've introduced a lot of your methods recently and even though customers don't necessarily notice immediately, 5-10 years down the line (let alone 6-12 months), they won't be complaining material is falling apart or separating. Thanks for sharing, you've helped me immensely
I just looked at a video on the Automaxx on the Kreg site. Many people complained about it and said that they cannot get it tight no matter how they adjust it. How do you get it tight?
Thanks for your tips. I have a question for you or anyone else. I have 1/2" mdf I need to join together. I was going to use pocket screws, but the boards keep splitting. The length is too long 80" to use the clamp that you used. How else can I put pressure on each hole to keep it from splitting? Thank you for your time.
I love your videos! I have a question. I am trying to pocket hole wainscotting, but it still splits the Stiles and rails. It doesn't split them too bad, and it's still able to hold the material, but if I look at the end of the board, I can see that it has begun to separate. Do you run into this? Will it get worse over time, or should I just go with it? I'm using 3/4 material and kreg's coarse 1 1/4 screw. Suggestions?
Outstanding videos. Do you have any videos showing how you did wainscoting around a trimless , bullnosed corner window ? I would like to do our dining room but the window has me stumped. You tube is of little help. Thanks
So I'm experiencing tear out along the side of the pocket hole whether I'm using mdf or pine and with a both a knock off and kreg step bit. What's causing that? I'm using an 18v drill hut didnt think that would be a problem. Any ideas?
Thanks for another great video. I bought a cheap menard face clamp and it has the exact problem you mention, I have to fiddle with the screw to adjust the tightness, I wish I know the kreg's one is that much better. Thank you.
Have you considered one of those corrugated fasteners? BANG! BANG! It's done! I remember back in the day, the cabinet makers would use those to fasten the stiles to the rails in the cabinets and it always had a perfect smooth finish. Oh, BTW, thanks to you, I bought one of those precision protractors and finally used it today. I was smiling all day with my perfect beveled joints! Thanks for the great tip!
Is there a reason you pocket hole the stiles instead of using CA glue or use CA glue with biscuits? Is it a strength or convenience choice? Thanks! Keep up the awesome work!!!
Great vid, thanks! Quick question if you can. Is there a particular brand or type of mdf that is best for pocket screws? I have had little success with this application and I'm certain it has to do with quality of mdf. I live abroad and it's more difficult to get the good stuff, just wondering what I should be asking for from the limited specialty places. Thanks again, great job man!
Easy way to remember the difference between stiles and rails (which is vertical which is horizontal). Stiles (styles) are like womens’ skirt hems - they go up and down with the change in styles.
It depends on the job. You have to think about the use of it and will it ever need to come apart and be reused at a later time. Glueing in addition to pocket hole would make a stronger connection.
Thanks for your video. I tried to do mdf and failed. This will definitely help. The most important thing I learned about pocket screwed is don't drive them home. The torque will turn the workpiece, then you're screwed., Hahaha
The Milwaukee impact on the lightest torque setting is great for pocket hole screws! I've driven hundreds in hard and soft materials without a problem.
They both work. I personally prefer to set my reg drill on high speed and low torque and speed through it. Its all preference. I can use my impact as well and count the clicks and see when the clicks start changing rythem.
Richard what is you take on copeing when doing crown? I have see many of your videos and can not find anything on cope vs not copeing. Thank you for all your videos! Keep up the great work.
That would be a great video. I usually miter all of my inside corners. Typically only cope when I am joining to an existing piece of trim that I do not want to remove from the wall.
For something so sensitive I would think that screws are too aggressive on the material. I would think using dowel rods would be stronger and more cost effective instead of using those expensive Craig screws. CA glue would be a good option for this so it would bond quicker than regular wood glue. DEFINITELY not saying you don’t know what your doing just a suggestion you might want to look into if your interested.
When I was trying to do mdf thinner than 3/4 I was getting a bump on from side of the mdf. I tried backing out on the depth but it still was bulging IG on the front side?????
Do you think you could show how to end a chair rail on a window or door trim on a upcoming vid. Thanks for all the great tips. You have really inspired me to venture into trim carpentry on my home. Awesome work!
Rick Hilton thanks for watching. There are a few options. It would be a great video. But my preferred method is using a back band. Type in backband and you will see what I mean
Funny man all these tools you discover, I've been using all along. Makes me know I'm headed in the right direction. I love using back-band. It's an opportunity to bust out router table and do custom work. Easy but impressive to home owners
What is your preferred source for MDF sheets when you aren't using pre-primed MDF trim? I've had 1/2" thick MDF (3.5" wide, cut from a sheet) split even when using the Kreg face clamp, but maybe I didn't have it tight enough (it is the older manual face clamp, not the AutoMax one). Maybe my sheet stock isn't the greatest? Thanks for all your helpful videos!
Great Video thanks for posting! Question: do yo always use 1 1/4 coarse screws for 3/4 to 3/4 face frames? I thought my Kreg screw selector wheel recommends 1 1/2 coarse.
Great video, I didn't know about the auto clamp, the one that comes with the Kreg IS a pain The the panels that you pre-made in this video, the rails and stiles are white, is that prefinished MDF or pine?
Tony Falcone that is a pre primed mdf. We use two different suppliers here in Dallas /fort worth. One has the boards pre primed. I try to use them as much as I can.
gr8 stuff .;.; hey i put bolt stops on each side of Dewalt saw to dead stop at 45 so to swing saw with out looking and stop on 45 .;.; i will post pic soon .;.; thanks fer the gr8 vids
Rick man... I’m a trim guy too, also renovated for 20 years. I’m 44. You don’t need to pocket hole everything. It’s for more specific type joints. I see you spending more time then necessary. Like the channel. And for sure get away from mdf
The best option for precision type work is “Milwaukee’s Surge Impact Driver” or “Makita’s Oil Impulse Driver”. You get less noise and less vibration with better control over a standard impact driver 👍🏼
Thank you for this informative video, and mini unsponsored tool review. I trust the guys who do this all day, every day for a living much more than the "click SUBSCRIBE!" guys.
Every video you produce teaches something. Clear audio with no annoying music, barking dogs or other distractions.
This is by far still my favorite MDF video. So many gems dropped in this vide!💯
On the impact driver issue mentioned a few times below: I've used pocket hole screws quite a bit over the years although way less often than a professional finished carpenter. I've never used anything else other than an impact driver. I've never split a board or noticed a problem. I used them exactly as was done in this video. One advantage for me is that I use the drill bit in my standard drill and the square hole driver in my impact driver so I don't need to change bits as I work.
oh man you saved me a whole lot of headache! I had spent 4 hours yesterday sawing, pocketholing and sanding mdf for 2 radiator covers. my first joint today fell apart if you just looked at it and I was afraid I could throw out all my work and start again with multiplex. Thank goodness I have a Kreg faceclamp and by working very carefully and reinforcing some of the weaker joints with extra strips of multiplex nailed to the back (nobody will be the wiser) my first cover is ready for some last bits of trim routing and then primer and paint. Thank you!
Loved the demo. best video explaining mdf and pocket holes. Thanks Bud
In the summer I built a bunch of wainscoting using 4x8 sheets of MDF from home depot, and it did not split once when joining the rails and the stiles. But then I switched to a different supplier of MDF sheets for a job I am working on now, and it split every time even with face clamps. Luckily it still held strong since I glued it. If it wasn't the supplier difference it could be because the material was quite warm in the summer when I did the first one.
Great video, do you use glue as well as the pocket holes?
Thank you. Will use this technique on my uPVC facia box ends and save a fortune on not buying the over priced end board.
Hi, Great Channel, can I ask what thickness mdf is used on this video ?
Great Job. I learned these tips early on. I use the Kreg plate with the hole in it for the clamp. I don’t attach it to anything like a bench I just move it to where I need it. That way you have a very large back to clamp to.
*You are the great teacher! Simple but direct. Thanks.*
Good video THANK YOU
What glue do you use to connect MDF?
I tried a super sticky activator, it didn't go very well.
Joining with screws is due to cracking of the material.
I use 19 mm thick MDF
Thank you! So simple, but friggin brilliant! This actually solved my issues with pieces not lining up while driving the screws. But clamping the pieces from both sides verses clamping to a table is the perfect solution!
Can you also pre drill MDF to stop it splitting. If you're not using pocket holes?
Hi, I bought pocket hole jig few weeks ago and its really awesome! But in Russia, it's not easy to buy original Kreg screws, or they cost too much - I'm using flat head screws (or bugle screws - not sure how to translate correctly) with M4 spacers and they give me the good results. Thanks for your video!
Try trend in the UK.
I've seen people try to use drywall screws instead of the Kreg screws, or similar flat bottom screws. The bugle head on a drywall screw will try to split open the material as it goes in. That's why Kreg gives you a flat shoulder on the drill bit and a flat bottom on the head of the screw.
Add wood glue
The biggest problem with drywall screws is no self tapping. I've used flat head screws in an emergency for pocket holes and they work. You just gotta be super careful and clamp the faces just like this guy did. Most important is self tapping
I dgreatly appreciate your videos... your expertise and attention to detail has trully help me out when DIY ing finish capentry... If you ever consider visiting Canada, more specifically eastern Canada, i'de like to invite you as a guest speaker for a DIY symposium... keep up the great video and dont forget to smile :)
Mike de Canada
Richard your a true gangsta (the complimentary kind) your videos have help me on my home. I have followed you for some time now. My bride is prego and wants me to do wainscoting all over the house now! If I was in the Ftw area I’d buy you some tacos and chill with you and your camera guy.
I'm in the same field and man... my old bosses and colleagues were lazy. I've introduced a lot of your methods recently and even though customers don't necessarily notice immediately, 5-10 years down the line (let alone 6-12 months), they won't be complaining material is falling apart or separating. Thanks for sharing, you've helped me immensely
That's a great point. Thanks for watching.
I just looked at a video on the Automaxx on the Kreg site. Many people complained about it and said that they cannot get it tight no matter how they adjust it. How do you get it tight?
Very helpful video! 👍👍 I just picked up my first Kreg to make MDF cabinetry in my toolshed!
Thank you for this this clearly explained tutorial. Very informative
Thanks for your tips. I have a question for you or anyone else. I have 1/2" mdf I need to join together. I was going to use pocket screws, but the boards keep splitting. The length is too long 80" to use the clamp that you used. How else can I put pressure on each hole to keep it from splitting? Thank you for your time.
Wood biscuits would be a better option
Good tip. What are the chances of using pocket holes successfully to join osb? Thanks
I love your videos! I have a question. I am trying to pocket hole wainscotting, but it still splits the Stiles and rails. It doesn't split them too bad, and it's still able to hold the material, but if I look at the end of the board, I can see that it has begun to separate. Do you run into this? Will it get worse over time, or should I just go with it? I'm using 3/4 material and kreg's coarse 1 1/4 screw. Suggestions?
Nice . You're a good teacher.
I love pocket hole jigs with a little glue the joint is strong as hell great video
Pretty nice joint! Love the clamp! Nice job!
Will mdf hold for kitchen cabinets?
Excellent video. Well done and right to the point. Thanks for making it.
Outstanding videos. Do you have any videos showing how you did wainscoting around a trimless , bullnosed corner window ? I would like to do our dining room but the window has me stumped. You tube is of little help. Thanks
Is there any reason not to glue the joint as well? BTW, excellent video!
Great job mate , love the way you simplify the process . Im going to try this method at home, cheers
Wonderful video. Curious. When pocket holing hardwood do you pilot out the mating piece before setting a fastener?
No need to 'pilot' the other piece - ever.
A key to that is using screws that are self-drilling / type 17, which of course all Kreg screws are.
So I'm experiencing tear out along the side of the pocket hole whether I'm using mdf or pine and with a both a knock off and kreg step bit. What's causing that? I'm using an 18v drill hut didnt think that would be a problem. Any ideas?
Thanks for another great video. I bought a cheap menard face clamp and it has the exact problem you mention, I have to fiddle with the screw to adjust the tightness, I wish I know the kreg's one is that much better. Thank you.
Edward Tse yeah the cheap ones are really annoying to use
Have you considered one of those corrugated fasteners? BANG! BANG! It's done! I remember back in the day, the cabinet makers would use those to fasten the stiles to the rails in the cabinets and it always had a perfect smooth finish. Oh, BTW, thanks to you, I bought one of those precision protractors and finally used it today. I was smiling all day with my perfect beveled joints! Thanks for the great tip!
Those are hard to find. I found the gun one in a pawn shop, but have no idea where to get the fasteners.
@@macD723 Amazon has all those things
Man I love learning from this guy!
Is 5/8 inch thick MDF too thin for edge to edge pocket holes? The finished board is merely a divider in a bookcase and doesn't carry any weight.
Is there a reason you pocket hole the stiles instead of using CA glue or use CA glue with biscuits? Is it a strength or convenience choice? Thanks! Keep up the awesome work!!!
In my eperience i feel that MDF is very prone to lateral splits, in that a biscuit joint wouldn't hold up well to any torsion or rocking on the joint
Excellent, tip on fine vs course is detail that makes the difference, thank you
Great vid, thanks! Quick question if you can. Is there a particular brand or type of mdf that is best for pocket screws? I have had little success with this application and I'm certain it has to do with quality of mdf. I live abroad and it's more difficult to get the good stuff, just wondering what I should be asking for from the limited specialty places. Thanks again, great job man!
Can 9mm Moisture Resistant MDF be pocket holed?
Used mine all day today and love it
Are you ripping an MDF sheet down into strips or can you buy them like that?
Around me it’s only sheets and shelfs (11-12” wise x 8’) available.
Easy way to remember the difference between stiles and rails (which is vertical which is horizontal). Stiles (styles) are like womens’ skirt hems - they go up and down with the change in styles.
always great advice and straight to the point. No BS!
Great video buddy.
What if the wood is not exactly 3/4” thick? Most mounding and x1 are 11/16” thick! I did this and it was splitting the wood on the joints?
well presented dude, definitely getting one of those clamps.
How would you do a 90 degrees with the face clamp?
What about glueing also?
How you liking the Ridgid drill? Great video
Perfect. Just what I needed. Thanks so much!
Awesome pointer, appreciate ur time my brother!
What do you think about RIDGID TOOLS? thanks
Like the work table 👍👍
Great vid. What kind of screw would you use on plywood coarse or fine?. Thanks
When you buy the kreg jig you get a book that tells you which screws and what sizes
Plywood is considered soft wood, so coarse screws its is.
Whay would you say to glueing the pieces together first then clamp and screw together?
It depends on the job. You have to think about the use of it and will it ever need to come apart and be reused at a later time. Glueing in addition to pocket hole would make a stronger connection.
It seems obvious but, it is not. Great video, thank you
Thanks for your video. I tried to do mdf and failed. This will definitely help. The most important thing I learned about pocket screwed is don't drive them home. The torque will turn the workpiece, then you're screwed., Hahaha
I have been looking for this video and didn’t know to terminology of wall design.
Simple but very helpfull
Simple and very nice. Good work.
Love the drone shots.
My inclination would have been to use glue or other adhesive to strengthen the joint. Any reason this was not used ?
I've read around UA-cam from many pros... Although the glue does strengthen the bond. It's not really necessary.
Cool! Good to know about the coarse screws The things I learn on this channel
William Barbour course thread are for soft wood and fine thread are for hard wood
Billy Mattern
Yes I know the difference between the two
What about doing a 90 degree butt joint in MDF? Should that be safe since the screw is going into the face of the material?
How do you attach the plywood to the back of the frame for your wainscoting? Thank you
Take a look at the Kreg HiLo screws for this type of application.
Great videos. But I disagree on the impact. You should use your reg drill and set the clutch. That way you won’t strip it out.
He's right, impact is better
The Milwaukee impact on the lightest torque setting is great for pocket hole screws! I've driven hundreds in hard and soft materials without a problem.
They both work. I personally prefer to set my reg drill on high speed and low torque and speed through it. Its all preference. I can use my impact as well and count the clicks and see when the clicks start changing rythem.
got any advice for install crown moulding on plaster walls
You’re fantastic at this, thanks!!
Thinking about getting that Kreg work bench, do you recommend it?
Angelo Cutter I like it very much. Totally recommend it. Its light weight yet very stable.
Richard what is you take on copeing when doing crown? I have see many of your videos and can not find anything on cope vs not copeing. Thank you for all your videos! Keep up the great work.
That would be a great video. I usually miter all of my inside corners. Typically only cope when I am joining to an existing piece of trim that I do not want to remove from the wall.
Thank you very much! Look forward to the video, I am remodeling a room in my house and plan on doing crown. Your videos are helping a ton. Thank you!
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
When you paint your MDF do you do anything special to the edges? Mine always come out rough.
zbrumbach Sand with 120 or 150, then 220. Brush a mixture of wood glue and water on and let it dry. I get glassy finishes with that process
Good video, good info and nothing else
Very helpful.
For something so sensitive I would think that screws are too aggressive on the material. I would think using dowel rods would be stronger and more cost effective instead of using those expensive Craig screws. CA glue would be a good option for this so it would bond quicker than regular wood glue. DEFINITELY not saying you don’t know what your doing just a suggestion you might want to look into if your interested.
What thickness MDF are using for the rails and styles
When I was trying to do mdf thinner than 3/4 I was getting a bump on from side of the mdf. I tried backing out on the depth but it still was bulging IG on the front side?????
Awesome, I can't wait to try this!
What's the intro song??? I hear you use it on a lot of your intros
Thanx for making it Simple...
Well done. Great info ty.
good tip! thanks
Do you think you could show how to end a chair rail on a window or door trim on a upcoming vid. Thanks for all the great tips. You have really inspired me to venture into trim carpentry on my home. Awesome work!
Rick Hilton yes been asking the same. Do a 45 return then trim the small piece over lapping the casing
Rick Hilton thanks for watching. There are a few options. It would be a great video. But my preferred method is using a back band. Type in backband and you will see what I mean
Awesome, thanks again
Funny man all these tools you discover, I've been using all along. Makes me know I'm headed in the right direction. I love using back-band. It's an opportunity to bust out router table and do custom work. Easy but impressive to home owners
What is your preferred source for MDF sheets when you aren't using pre-primed MDF trim? I've had 1/2" thick MDF (3.5" wide, cut from a sheet) split even when using the Kreg face clamp, but maybe I didn't have it tight enough (it is the older manual face clamp, not the AutoMax one). Maybe my sheet stock isn't the greatest?
Thanks for all your helpful videos!
Great Video thanks for posting! Question: do yo always use 1 1/4 coarse screws for 3/4 to 3/4 face frames? I thought my Kreg screw selector wheel recommends 1 1/2 coarse.
Good job, thanks for sharing. Hi from Australia. Or should I say gidday mate?
Great video, I didn't know about the auto clamp, the one that comes with the Kreg IS a pain The the panels that you pre-made in this video, the rails and stiles are white, is that prefinished MDF or pine?
Tony Falcone that is a pre primed mdf. We use two different suppliers here in Dallas /fort worth. One has the boards pre primed. I try to use them as much as I can.
Ah thanks Around here the only boards that you can buy primed are FJ pine
Buy the auto and you'll never look back at any other face clamp
Is it best to use MDF vs 1x4 if I want to do this in my dining room?
Cheaper, better to paint.
gr8 stuff .;.; hey i put bolt stops on each side of Dewalt saw to dead stop at 45 so to swing saw with out looking and stop on 45 .;.; i will post pic soon .;.; thanks fer the gr8 vids
Rick man... I’m a trim guy too, also renovated for 20 years. I’m 44. You don’t need to pocket hole everything. It’s for more specific type joints. I see you spending more time then necessary. Like the channel. And for sure get away from mdf
Quick question bro why pocket hole instead of biscuit join ? Great vids ✌🏻
The best option for precision type work is “Milwaukee’s Surge Impact Driver” or “Makita’s Oil Impulse Driver”. You get less noise and less vibration with better control over a standard impact driver 👍🏼
Thank you for this informative video, and mini unsponsored tool review. I trust the guys who do this all day, every day for a living much more than the "click SUBSCRIBE!" guys.
You are fine touch carpenter
Love ur vids man. Keep up the good work.as aways.