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Fix This Build That you could also build a jig so that you can make your own dowels from the same species of wood for a better color and potential grain match
@Kwistenbiebel200 Body fillers sand very easily, especially if you catch it at the right time. It sort of cures it stages. It first hardens to a rubbery state and then later hardens to a more solid state. As it transitions from frubbery to solid it sands very easy, by hand or machine.
Great work, Brad. One thing with the glue and sawdust: mix it off of your workpiece. I think that's why you made such a big mess! I like that dowel cutting jig, going to have to try that!
+Crafted Workshop yeah, I made a huge mess and obviously would never mix it on an actual workpiece. The jig was like a flash of brilliance, and Ihonestly can't think of a faster way to cut these. Plus it's zero clearance so no chipout on the cut. I might do a video just on this jig...and I already shot a funny parody of making it that I ended up cutting out. So even better reason to do it :)
Also heard of people keeping jars of sawdust w/ the wood species marked on them so they can just pull one out and mix it w/ glue to fill gaps/holes. Think you can also mix in a little stain or something to alter colors a bit.
Its a good filler sawdust and wood glue, you just need to mix well the parts, apply and remove the excess with a putty knife, so it dries clean and no need to sand later, it's a problem sanding wood glue, since it's harder than wood, that's why I always try to cut out the glue excess just after applied.
Note: when making your own wood filler with glue and saw dust mix it in a bowl and experiment with the amount of sawdust you use. It may not work well as it did here if there is too much saw dust compared to glue. The advantage over wood filler is that if the sawdust is the same kind of wood the color will be correct vs filler.
Hi Brad. Thanks for the hands on research. If I am painting, I am definitely a fan of bondo for repairs (pocket holes and others). The more you use it, the more comfortable you will get with your technique. I generally overfill a hole (any hole) and just after the bondo sets up, I use a rasp (actually a drywall rasp works great) to get rid of the bulk of the overfill, Then I allow the bondo to fully set and sand as usual. BTW, I actually use bondo for filling knot holes even if I am staining. But when I do, I use a white catalyst instead of the red and add a color to match the final finish.
Sawdust and glue - This works best when you have sander dust that came from the wood you are actually working with and you need the filler to match in color and composition! Works great on fine cracks as well. Bondo - Use Bondo made for wood, not auto repair. Much tougher than wood filler and easily has 10 times the holding power of wood filler.
Agreed, hard to beat the price of sawdust and wood glue, wood filler is not a bad product but not much sense paying for different color sawdust. Sawdust and Titebond glue is also very strong, wood filler products may or may not be. What I've read about Bondo body filler is metal parts are not moving like wood over time, the Bondo Wood Filler should be a bit more flexible to prevent cracking later on. We have a lot of great products these days the challenge is knowing what to use when.
Several quick 'two cents' to add. It is worth the couple seconds to chamfer the insert end of the dowels (dowels you make yourself). I just scrape them along some 80 grit sand paper while turning them in my hand. A good chamfer takes about 5 strokes.This really helps guide the dowel into the pocket hole. A power tool is faster for making dowels if you need a bunch of them. I just finished a shelving unit that needed 700 pocket holes filled. I rubberbanded together bundles of 10 dowels with a rubber band every two inches and a stop block in my miter saw. I cut 700+ plugs in about 10 minutes. Finally, the best option is a combination option of a plug and a putty. Plugs will always give some gapping and tearout. The putty (whether Bondo or Wood Filler) will fill that gapping. I prefer Bondo, but its five minute open time can significantly constrict a large project, so I only use it on smaller projects with only a few holes.
I live in Chile. A long way from the big stores. I use sawdust and glue. One is mix it off the work area and two let it dry. Could take a pair of days!! Great VideoThanks
Try Bondo with a white hardener or mix hardener colors with your bondo to match your wood. Colored hardeners can be purchased from auto body stores .or use a little bit of paint coloring to match your bondo to th e color of your wood .Wait until the bondo starts to harden and take a sharp flat knife to cut the bondo sort of flush so sanding is easier .Wait a few minutes until the bondo hardens and finish sanding .If you are staining; the bondo will accept a lot of oil stains and get somewhat close but the finished product is easy to work with and really acceptable .I've used bondo on book shelves and kept my holes on the bottom side and they are hardly noticeable .
I've used Bondo when I have done laminate work. I did the same Sort of samples as you, and I found that sometimes with the plugs/dowels, there would be very tiny bubbles on an otherwise smooth surface. Cool dowel cutting jig though. Love working with a Jap/Pull saw
Saw dust and glue I learned from my woodshop teacher over 40 years ago. It is a great wood filler, if done right. Mix thoroughly in a small plastic container first, then apply. Also, match your sawdust size and color to the size of the hole to be filled and color to the wood. It has worked as well or better than any wood putty for me for over 40 years.
just wanted to add that kreg has came up with a set of plug cutters that allow you to cut plugs using the same wood you use to build your project with. I have the whole set. they work really well.
We own a commercial cabinet shop we use bondo on a regular basis it fills best every time sands easy with air sanders nice quality saves time which is for us money.
I build custom kitchen cabinets and we use the bondo method and it works great also use bondo on any imperfections in the wood if we're painting the cabinets
I have tried white glue and sawdust and they worked well. As a DIYer, it is also the cheapest. I guess it's how you apply it that would make the difference. What I do is apply glue on the target area and stuffed it with sawdust (instead of mixing them before applying on the target area.)
Yes sawdust and glue works, separate dish and more care in application, also if you plan to stain or paint mix it in with your glue and dust equal parts. Bondo is nice but will not take a stain or paint unless properly applied primer sealer and then only paint- stain will not take. Liked how you made your own dowels very slick. Well done.
Right on Brad. I totally agree with the straight cut dowels. I also use MH Ready Patch on stuff that will be primed and painted. It's like bondo without the mixing.
Thank you for doing this demo! I think you've gotten me switched from store bought plugs (Kreg Plugs, since use their K5 Pocket Hole System) over to using the straight dole rod/plugs! One reason is the cost then there is the (which I'd never really thought about) ability to get different species of wood for matching the plugs to the specific wood species I used!!
Bondo is the go to for a lot of residential carpenters now. Yes even the extreme high end homes. You can shape it to match anything from split casing to flex crown. putty will fill small holes ok but bondo will allow you to fill large holes with no problem
Hey Brad, yeah the glue and saw dust I learned from my dad back in the 80's and I still use it today at times. I like the wood filler because it's easy and you don't need to go back and fill holes from the plugs (which I also use at times). So for the glue and saw dust, I use the "bigger" saw dust from the miter saw or table saw....not the fine powder (like you used) from a sander. I mix it until it's a wood filler consistency. I also notice it takes stain better than woodfiller.
Dill Wiggle - For paint grade Only... Hamiltons Fast set five minute, 10 minute, 20 minute, 30 Minute Mud Compounds, just add water, mix, apply, let dry, enough said. Good luck with your woodworking projects. Greg
When I made my son's loft bed, I used pocket holes and I didn't plug the holes. If I had to remake it, I'd definitely fill them with the straight dowels. What method you use to fill them will also depend greatly on what kind of finish you put on it. I also don't like using wood filler because it shrinks and expands over time. I used it to cover up some screws on the stocking hanger that I made and you can already tell that the filler is expanding. I will try using Bondo next time I have to fill holes that will be painted. Obviously you'll never be able to completely hide the pocket holes but I'd be interested in how the Bondo looks after being stained and finished.
Very good video! I read the comment section and didn’t think about how it would take stain. I also agree that if it will show don’t do a pocket-hole on the outside. Good all around subject.
Stop-block on a crosscut sled, use a pencil eraser to hold the end close to the blade and you can cut those small dowels pretty quick. It won't fall into a container like you have though - that's brilliant!
I did a curve ceiling project that left a lot of pocket holes. Sawing is not a good option in that case. Filler will be the way to go. Thank you so much.
We use razor blades to smooth the installation of bondo as a result almost no sanding is required. Bondo does expand and contract at a different rate than most lumber products so if you’re looking for a proper 50 yr life span the straight dowels are best.
My father and brother always used Bondo for woodworking projects, and I worked with them growing up, so I picked it up also. It wasn't until I owned my own home and actually had to buy some for myself that I found out it was actually for cars!
I just started doing some pocket holes and used the sawdust and glue mix. Mine looks exactly like that. I mixed in a small container to minimize mess but any residue was horrible to remove by sanding. Wish I had seen this first. I'll stick with straight dowels for sure. Love that jig idea too. Thanks!
Thanks, mate. I’ve just bought a pocket hole jig and it came with some plugs, but I think I’ll get some 10mm dowel and use that method. You have to use a flush saw in either case.
Thank you for showing me the best way to plug holes. I was going to purchase a $74. Kreg plug cutter. However now I am going to simply get some 3/8" dowels. Saved some money now I can buy more wood. Thanks again brad.
Thank you for the six ways you tried. For the glue and saw dust, try mixing it on something like a plastic lid first and the fill the holes. As for the angled dowels I think you put them in backwards, try putting the angled side in facing down so it will go in with the angle and the flat side will be there for you to tap in
Straight cut dowels, love the way you cut them into the bowl, I used my miter saw then they either break or fly somewhere where I can't find them 😂😂😂 Wood filler used as backup, also I think it is cheaper to mainly use dowels rather than wood filler, those pocket holes need a lot of filler. Excellent video, thanks.
Love using bondo for paint grade projects. There are other brands out there as well. The biggest thing is that it doesn't seem to shrink and when painted weathers really well.
I use durhams water putty when i need to fill larger voids. I think its plaster of paris based so hardens up fast. For small holes, nail holes, etc., i use spackling compound or Norms old trick of using glazing compound.
Bondo is my favorite it harden fast and quick easy to sand but it's a bit pricey versus dowels. Dowels there more steps to having a better finish once sanded if staining you can see where the dowels are. Bondo hides a bit better when staining on darker stains
Sherwin Williams Shrink Free Spackle. Or any Spackle. Which will always be a better choice for paint up project over wood filler. Wood filler is for stains. Also, don't use caulk between walls and mouldings. Again Spackle. And if you want, you can mix a 2 to 1 Spackle/wood filler. Should avoid shrinking still but may be a better texture for you to work with. You can add 5% water to this. Then let set a few minutes. :)
I use pocket-hole joinery pretty exclusively (I don't have the capacity to do other types of joints, and I make functional furniture only, really). Only recently have I decided that I'd like to fill the holes. This was really, really helpful! I recently was given an oscillating multitool that I thought I might use to cut off the excess plugs, but you've made that hand saw (the flush-cut trim saw) look really easy! and the idea of how to make my own dowels is useful as well.
I wish I'd found your video 2 days ago. I'm making a king size farmhouse bed (head & footboard rails and support frame. I did a lot if sanding yesterday. My store bought plugs did not fit very well. I will remember your video for my next project. That Bondo is impressive. Since I'll have to sand anyway and it looks like it is good alternative for most fillers assuming it's a painted, not stained project I'll be giving it a try.
Bondo is great! I had to use it on a newly finished work surface for my work bench which is 2 pieces of 3/4. It worked great! Yes, it's a different color but it's a work bench top.
Personally I use the sawdust and glue method, you can get a perfect match to the wood you are using, but you have to take your time mixing and applying, I am not surprised you didn't like the result, with the way you applied it.
The best filler for persons who do the job often is to use wood dust from different timbers. I collect mahogany timber dust, white deal wood dust and oak wood dust and store them in separate jars. Whenever i need to fill holes i make a mix of two types of timber dust and by so doing i can match the colour of the furniture. Darker wood dust will become even darker when put to use as is. White deal dust is the colour correcting element in the mix. Experience will help the user to make a matching mix. I often use PVA glue. PVA glue is practical to use, but it would absorb some synthetic stain and turn little darker. Animal glue or hide glue would not absorb synthetic stain. As far as softness for easy sanding, the filler mix must be tested before use. Again experience will help here too. The components are cheap but experience is necessary. PVA glue produces a very strong filler which could be almost impossible to flatten later. It does not take a lot of glue to produce a good filler. One could finish off the filling with a soft filler mix to facilitate sanding later. It is a question of ensuring a correct glue mixture and filling in layers.
I use saw dust and wood glue most but I mix my saw dust and glue on a paper plate, after I get the thickness I want I apply the filler with a putty knife and scrap up the excess right away works fine. Second method I use is wood plugs I make to fit my needs at that time. Thanks for sharing.
It seems to me that if you added a angle cutting slot to your dowel cutting jig, and it half the cuts on the dowel at the angle of the pocket holes, and half straight, you could essentially double how many pocket hole plugs you could get out of a store-bought dowel. Also, by the way, you can also get straight plug cutters as well.
So I've tried the sawdust and glue before with similar results. Thinking I would get the best color match with that method and ended up with a mess and a horribly filled hole. Surprised with the Bondo and I wonder how well it holds stain and if the color is too far off. I've had success with store bought before but seeing the results from the straight cut dowels why spend the money. Great jig idea. Going to go with your jig and straight cut dowels from now on. Thanks for another great video.
Bondo might not be bad if your painting the project...looks like it would stand out if you were staining it. I tried the store bought plugs and wasn't happy with them either...I think i might try the straight cut dowels in whatever wood type I am working with. Thanks for the video.
If you want to finish it you have a couple choices. Don't use pocket hole screws on visible faces or use vernier to cover the holes. Which you would want to fill the holes to ensure a smooth vernier application.
You need to make another jig for making your own angled dowels and try it again. When you drill the hole into the scrap piece, you need to decrease the drilling dept by the the thickness of the head of the screw. I use poplar dowels. Hold a piece of 180 grit sandpaper in your hand and quickly run the dowel through it a few times before cutting the plugs. Add glue to the hole---which will also lubricate the plug on insertion and makes pushing the pre-sanded dowel in a breeze. If you get the drilled hole depth on the jig correctly you will be very close to flush. The only issue I've come across is sometimes the thin end of the dowel doesn't want to lay flat against the surface while gluing, but throwing a weight or clamp on it for half hour or so will press it down and you'll be ready to sand.
+borwish borwish sounds like a decent plan, but I find the straight dowel method more straightforward. Just tap it in and cut flush. No fuss, and way faster to cut the plugs. One of the things I love about woodworking, more than one way to plug a hole!
I tried your straight cut method today and must admit that it definitely has a place in the workshop. I still believe my method is faster and cleaner, but requires a tablesaw or bandsaw and a production run. If only a few are need, your method is more suitable. I used the angled off cuts to do the other half of the pocket holes.
Feel like this is a dumb question, but what is the PURPOSE of plugging/filling a pocket hole? Is it with the expectation you can easily paint (not stain) over it without notice, and probably need pocket holes in visible areas to get correct joints? Thanks for any opinions.
Great video. I have a set of shelves with just over 100 pocket holes that I have been putting off finishing because I don't want to fill them all. Lol. I would be very curious to see how the bondo stains up. Might try that approach if it accepts stain well. I look forward to seeing a follow up video!
I use my bandsaw with a jig to cut my plugs from 3/8 dowels. I stick them in the holes with glue and bang them home with a Hammer and 3/4 stock using its edge against the plugs to set them flush. Works great.
Thank you or a review of each of these methods. It was very helpful. I make my own dowels so I prefer your cross cut dowel plug method. Also they don't cost me anything since I make them from off cuts, usually out of wood from the same project. Search dowel making jigs.
If you look at the PURCHASED WOOD plugs notice that BOTH ends are angled. I suspect the angle on the starting end helps with holes that are rough on the inside. ( If the dowel has been around a while, it might have swelled.)
Another filler that can be used is drywall compound aka spakle. Also after using the straight cut method you end up with an angle cut plug if you want to use the off uts
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I appreciate it. By the way Kreg has discontinued walnut plugs and no longer sharpens it’s drill bits. Just bought a walnut dowel, 3/8 inch , for six dollars
You don't even need to fill them if the pocket holes are not going to be exposed. Even stainable wood filler, although filling the hole well, still doesn't stain up very close to the surrounding wood, at least the filler I have used. I think using a wood plug, whether it be a dowel or the angled plugs are the best answer, because it is made of real wood and will accept stain better than all the rest, and actually makes a rather nice look when you are done, with the grain of the board contrasting nicely with the grain of the dowel or plug. If you are just painting the finished product, then none of what I said really matters as the paint will cover up any of the methods equally well I would think.
I think you will find with a stain finish the wood plugs will do best. Followed by the wood filler and glue sawdust mix. I would try different glues and see which is best. For smaller gaps try just rubbing sawdust into the squeeze out at glue up. Dad was a fan of this product. www.waterputty.com/ Sands well just add water. Does not take stain though.
I, too, would like to see how each of these stain. We have been having issues with the staining part of our projects when it comes to filling the pocket hole
As it's just a decorative cover, I'd never glue them in (& not use dust+glue / bondo) so they can be taken out if necessary. My bugbear is the pine dowels having their grain in other directions than the piece you're plugging --- go for contrasting wood, OR get the grain right (i.e., make your own dowel!)... especially for plywood dowels this is interesting =).
I use both sawdust-glue and wood filler. First a bit of glue in the hole, then add sawdust and gently pack it in. Use extra sawdust so the no glue gets to the trowel or finger (I use fingers). This takes up the bulk of the hole volume. Then finish with wood putty. Saves wood putty, which is more expensive.
20 odd years ago I knew a chippie in the UK who had to make a lot of Christmas display cabinets out of MDF and he always used easy-sand car filler with it. It was always spray painted before it went out so it was easy to hide I guess. Also around the same time I had seen it a lot in the building of custom MDF car door speaker pods, and used it myself in this way. These are often covered in material but smooth rounded edges were generally preferred. Probably a natural step as those like me building the speaker pods probably always had car filter on the shelf for filling holes in the body work of the "old bangers" we drove around in! So it's been around in the UK for years that I know of. Probably been around for longer than that too!
The next time you buy dowels take a caliber along with you and check the diameter in a couple different places and you’ll find that they vary in diameter that’s why some don’t fit real well. You could always put them in a drill chuck and hold a piece of sandpaper against them and get them to fit perfect. I make my own with the jig that I designed and built. It does not prevent me from having problems with over and under size dowels.
Interesting video. I tried the angled dowels that I cut and you're right about the fit. Then I switched to the Kreg plug cutter. I've had better success with that. Yes, it cost me a bit more, but I figured if I'm using a Kreg for pocket holes I should at least try the Kreg plug cutter. This way you can cut as many as you need out of left over wood.
i have been looking for ways to fill pockets holes and this video was amazing, one question though, it wouldnt be a concern how you fill the pocket holes if you had to paint the wood but what happens when you use a stain on wood. how do these fillings match with the wood?
When using the glue and sawdust method , I think it works best in conjunction with a wood plug. There is glue that is stainable , mix that with sawdust from the same species of wood as the plug and your project. the resulting finish seems to work well with stain.
Great video. We've been discussing this on another builders post in a Facebook group. This was a great addition to all of our experiences. I definitely would like to see how they stain. The filler is hit or miss for me when it comes to staining, but it paints beautifully.
Thanks for the tips, I'll be using them in the near future. How the items stained wood, would have been great. Bondo looks good but I'm not sure how it will look after you station the wood.
Good video. One caveat regarding wood filler. If it is of the water clean-up variety you need to seal the patch with a non-water based sealer or the patch will be worn away when brushing on a water-based primer or paint.
Once upon a time, I worked for a high-end custom wood furniture shop. We would often use bondo (had dispensers all over the shop). Our finishing guys would use some kind of oil pencils, etc, to draw in grain and color, I swear, (and I am picky) that you could not find those areas. Very much a credible God-send.
I like your videos, having only recently discovered them. I'm a newbie, not actually working with wood as yet. Which brings me to my newbie question. I can understand drilling pocket holes for attaching wood to wood but when would there be a need to fill pocket holes? Thanks.
In my journey to find the perfect wood hole filler(nail holes and gouges in interior trim work before paint) and for that particular purpose I'm blown away by Bondo "glazing and spot filler putty" it comes in the same consistency and container of toothpaste, it's red so you know exactly where your patches are, doesn't shrink, dries very hard and can be shaved off with a razor or sanded very easily for a perfectly smooth non-porous fill.
My experience has been the same as your results. I have tried the sawdust and glue mix a few times and it has always been a poor solution. I have been using wood filler and straight cut dowels for a while now. To cut my dowels I just put a piece of tape on the band saw to mark the length and slice them up quick and easy.
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Fix This Build That you could also build a jig so that you can make your own dowels from the same species of wood for a better color and potential grain match
Which one would you recommend on a much bigger hole?
To insert the angled dowel you do just bang them with a hammer on the flat face they will go in because of the angular force.
Please be careful while working .I just saw you get hurt two times in one video
9 ko
I'm a fan of Bondo, simply because of cost, durability, ease of sanding, and it practicality works on almost any kind of material.
For a painted project, I have been using bondo for screw and nail holes for over 20 years.
+Tom's Dreamshop Worx you were 20 years ahead of me!
Just means I'm a old fart! LOL
@N. Shiva Guru 🤣😂
@Kwistenbiebel200 Body fillers sand very easily, especially if you catch it at the right time. It sort of cures it stages. It first hardens to a rubbery state and then later hardens to a more solid state. As it transitions from frubbery to solid it sands very easy, by hand or machine.
What about if I’m staining it?
Bondo now makes a fast drying wood color filler it's awesome to use
Great work, Brad. One thing with the glue and sawdust: mix it off of your workpiece. I think that's why you made such a big mess! I like that dowel cutting jig, going to have to try that!
+Crafted Workshop yeah, I made a huge mess and obviously would never mix it on an actual workpiece. The jig was like a flash of brilliance, and Ihonestly can't think of a faster way to cut these. Plus it's zero clearance so no chipout on the cut. I might do a video just on this jig...and I already shot a funny parody of making it that I ended up cutting out. So even better reason to do it :)
Also heard of people keeping jars of sawdust w/ the wood species marked on them so they can just pull one out and mix it w/ glue to fill gaps/holes. Think you can also mix in a little stain or something to alter colors a bit.
Its a good filler sawdust and wood glue, you just need to mix well the parts, apply and remove the excess with a putty knife, so it dries clean and no need to sand later, it's a problem sanding wood glue, since it's harder than wood, that's why I always try to cut out the glue excess just after applied.
Crafted Workshop Exactly what I was thinking! Great video though... Super useful!
I precut dowels by rolling them under a utility knife, but I like the jig idea so there are plenty on hand. Great vid, thanks.
Note: when making your own wood filler with glue and saw dust mix it in a bowl and experiment with the amount of sawdust you use. It may not work well as it did here if there is too much saw dust compared to glue. The advantage over wood filler is that if the sawdust is the same kind of wood the color will be correct vs filler.
Hi Brad. Thanks for the hands on research. If I am painting, I am definitely a fan of bondo for repairs (pocket holes and others). The more you use it, the more comfortable you will get with your technique. I generally overfill a hole (any hole) and just after the bondo sets up, I use a rasp (actually a drywall rasp works great) to get rid of the bulk of the overfill, Then I allow the bondo to fully set and sand as usual. BTW, I actually use bondo for filling knot holes even if I am staining. But when I do, I use a white catalyst instead of the red and add a color to match the final finish.
Great video! straight into it, no filler, just filler.
Sawdust and glue - This works best when you have sander dust that came from the wood you are actually working with and you need the filler to match in color and composition! Works great on fine cracks as well.
Bondo - Use Bondo made for wood, not auto repair. Much tougher than wood filler and easily has 10 times the holding power of wood filler.
Agreed, hard to beat the price of sawdust and wood glue, wood filler is not a bad product but not much sense paying for different color sawdust. Sawdust and Titebond glue is also very strong, wood filler products may or may not be.
What I've read about Bondo body filler is metal parts are not moving like wood over time, the Bondo Wood Filler should be a bit more flexible to prevent cracking later on. We have a lot of great products these days the challenge is knowing what to use when.
Saw Bourbonmoth use a coffee grinder on wood that wasn't super fine like saw dust.
Harbor Freight has a flush cut saw for about 5$, it is on the smaller size but it works great.
+Mark W good to know!
Can confirm. One of the first cutting tools I had ever bought when I started. Works great!
Thanks for that info....gonna have to go get it
I've used pocket holes for years and never would have thought of the square cut dowels method! I'm totally doing that from here on!! Thanks!! 👍
+Jim Sollows it's by far the most consistently easiest application method I found. Hope it works well for you!
Yes, that was also what I learned from the video. Showing that hammer push those puppies in made my day!
Several quick 'two cents' to add. It is worth the couple seconds to chamfer the insert end of the dowels (dowels you make yourself). I just scrape them along some 80 grit sand paper while turning them in my hand. A good chamfer takes about 5 strokes.This really helps guide the dowel into the pocket hole.
A power tool is faster for making dowels if you need a bunch of them. I just finished a shelving unit that needed 700 pocket holes filled. I rubberbanded together bundles of 10 dowels with a rubber band every two inches and a stop block in my miter saw. I cut 700+ plugs in about 10 minutes.
Finally, the best option is a combination option of a plug and a putty. Plugs will always give some gapping and tearout. The putty (whether Bondo or Wood Filler) will fill that gapping. I prefer Bondo, but its five minute open time can significantly constrict a large project, so I only use it on smaller projects with only a few holes.
I live in Chile. A long way from the big stores. I use sawdust and glue. One is mix it off the
work area and two let it dry. Could take a pair of days!!
Great VideoThanks
That jig you used to cut dowels is actually quite ingenious. Looks pretty quick to get set up and have the dowels ready in no time.
+- - thanks!
Try Bondo with a white hardener or mix hardener colors with your bondo to match your wood. Colored hardeners can be purchased from auto body stores .or use a little bit of paint coloring to match your bondo to th e color of your wood .Wait until the bondo starts to harden and take a sharp flat knife to cut the bondo sort of flush so sanding is easier .Wait a few minutes until the bondo hardens and finish sanding .If you are staining; the bondo will accept a lot of oil stains and get somewhat close but the finished product is easy to work with and really acceptable .I've used bondo on book shelves and kept my holes on the bottom side and they are hardly noticeable .
+marvinbanjo great tips!
Excellent alternatives, thanks. Please be reminded of the Kreg dedicated plug cutters. Able to match wood species and even grain pattern/direction.
I just read about this option as well. Do you find when staining a project that the plugs are hard to detect? (my goal...) Thanks!
I've used Bondo when I have done laminate work. I did the same
Sort of samples as you, and I found that sometimes with the plugs/dowels, there would be very tiny bubbles on an otherwise smooth surface.
Cool dowel cutting jig though. Love working with a Jap/Pull saw
+Robert Boinski Yeah, if I was veneer in over it I'd go bondo all day.
Saw dust and glue I learned from my woodshop teacher over 40 years ago. It is a great wood filler, if done right. Mix thoroughly in a small plastic container first, then apply. Also, match your sawdust size and color to the size of the hole to be filled and color to the wood. It has worked as well or better than any wood putty for me for over 40 years.
just wanted to add that kreg has came up with a set of plug cutters that allow you to cut plugs using the same wood you use to build your project with. I have the whole set. they work really well.
+Robbi Terry yup, I've seen those. Look cool.
this kind of custom made plugs I also had appreciated in the video
We own a commercial cabinet shop we use bondo on a regular basis it fills best every time sands easy with air sanders nice quality saves time which is for us money.
I build custom kitchen cabinets and we use the bondo method and it works great also use bondo on any imperfections in the wood if we're painting the cabinets
+ituneyou 12 yeah, I was surprised!
Great video! Bondo makes a wood filler, it’s almost the same as regular Bondo. Bondo hardens to sand in about 5 minutes. 👍🏻👍🏻
Never knew this. Checking out their product now. Thanks for the tip!
I have tried white glue and sawdust and they worked well. As a DIYer, it is also the cheapest. I guess it's how you apply it that would make the difference. What I do is apply glue on the target area and stuffed it with sawdust (instead of mixing them before applying on the target area.)
Yes sawdust and glue works, separate dish and more care in application, also if you plan to stain or paint mix it in with your glue and dust equal parts. Bondo is nice but will not take a stain or paint unless properly applied primer sealer and then only paint- stain will not take. Liked how you made your own dowels very slick. Well done.
Right on Brad. I totally agree with the straight cut dowels.
I also use MH Ready Patch on stuff that will be primed and painted. It's like bondo without the mixing.
+MKRBRKR cool, not heard of that.
Yeah, I was thinking DryDex should work well too but I'm new to plugs. I will give it a try though.
Thank you for doing this demo! I think you've gotten me switched from store bought plugs (Kreg Plugs, since use their K5 Pocket Hole System) over to using the straight dole rod/plugs! One reason is the cost then there is the (which I'd never really thought about) ability to get different species of wood for matching the plugs to the specific wood species I used!!
Bondo is the go to for a lot of residential carpenters now. Yes even the extreme high end homes. You can shape it to match anything from split casing to flex crown. putty will fill small holes ok but bondo will allow you to fill large holes with no problem
For store bought (or dowel-made plug), I gently persuade them in by tapping on them with a scrap piece on top along with a brushing motion.
Hey Brad, yeah the glue and saw dust I learned from my dad back in the 80's and I still use it today at times. I like the wood filler because it's easy and you don't need to go back and fill holes from the plugs (which I also use at times). So for the glue and saw dust, I use the "bigger" saw dust from the miter saw or table saw....not the fine powder (like you used) from a sander. I mix it until it's a wood filler consistency. I also notice it takes stain better than woodfiller.
+Frank Castillo hmmm, didn't think about using larger bits of dust. Bet that would mix easier.
i owned a small painting business and i used bondo on hinge recesses and striker plate holes in door frames it was easy and fast and held very well.
I use drywall compound (mud). Works just like the bondo but dries quicker, easier to sand, and cheaper. Never had any issues with it.
+Jonathan Doeman Yeah, that's been a popular one I've heard about. Thanks!
Drywall mud don't dry faster than bondo unless its like a micron thick maybe lol
A setting type mud, that'll dry in 15-20 min works great
Dill Wiggle - For paint grade Only... Hamiltons Fast set five minute, 10 minute, 20 minute, 30 Minute Mud Compounds, just add water, mix, apply, let dry, enough said. Good luck with your woodworking projects. Greg
When I made my son's loft bed, I used pocket holes and I didn't plug the holes. If I had to remake it, I'd definitely fill them with the straight dowels. What method you use to fill them will also depend greatly on what kind of finish you put on it. I also don't like using wood filler because it shrinks and expands over time. I used it to cover up some screws on the stocking hanger that I made and you can already tell that the filler is expanding. I will try using Bondo next time I have to fill holes that will be painted. Obviously you'll never be able to completely hide the pocket holes but I'd be interested in how the Bondo looks after being stained and finished.
+Joshua Luther (Luther Woodworks) yeah, the bondo should hold up a lot better than the filler for sure.
Very good video! I read the comment section and didn’t think about how it would take stain. I also agree that if it will show don’t do a pocket-hole on the outside. Good all around subject.
I like your jig for making dowels. It could be easily adapted to use on a band saw or table saw.
+KSFWG yeah, sure could. I still think using a hand saw will be the fastest method though just due to material handling on the power tools.
Stop-block on a crosscut sled, use a pencil eraser to hold the end close to the blade and you can cut those small dowels pretty quick. It won't fall into a container like you have though - that's brilliant!
I did a curve ceiling project that left a lot of pocket holes. Sawing is not a good option in that case. Filler will be the way to go. Thank you so much.
We use razor blades to smooth the installation of bondo as a result almost no sanding is required. Bondo does expand and contract at a different rate than most lumber products so if you’re looking for a proper 50 yr life span the straight dowels are best.
I've used bondo for years, it can harden in seconds and it sticks to everything. Good video👍🇨🇦
Thanks, Tim!
My father and brother always used Bondo for woodworking projects, and I worked with them growing up, so I picked it up also. It wasn't until I owned my own home and actually had to buy some for myself that I found out it was actually for cars!
+LMR0015 that's funny :)
I just started doing some pocket holes and used the sawdust and glue mix. Mine looks exactly like that. I mixed in a small container to minimize mess but any residue was horrible to remove by sanding. Wish I had seen this first. I'll stick with straight dowels for sure. Love that jig idea too. Thanks!
Thanks, mate. I’ve just bought a pocket hole jig and it came with some plugs, but I think I’ll get some 10mm dowel and use that method. You have to use a flush saw in either case.
Thank you for showing me the best way to plug holes. I was going to purchase a $74. Kreg plug cutter. However now I am going to simply get some 3/8" dowels. Saved some money now I can buy more wood. Thanks again brad.
Bondo is great. We use it all the time on paint grade stuff at my job. Obviously it can't be stained
+Crossway Woodworks yeah, I was impressed
I've used Bondo and I love it. "Dries" fast and sands easily. I like your straight plug idea. I am going to try that.
+Darin Beard let me know what you think of the straight plugs.
Use "Wood Bondo" (not auto or all-purpose), which blends to a tan tone. LOVE it!
+Carla Heron oh, haven't seen that
Thank you for the six ways you tried. For the glue and saw dust, try mixing it on something like a plastic lid first and the fill the holes. As for the angled dowels I think you put them in backwards, try putting the angled side in facing down so it will go in with the angle and the flat side will be there for you to tap in
+theduck Yeah, I should try to mix it again. The angled plugs are correct. They are exactly like the store bought plugs in shape and install.
Fix This Build That try them the other way, just because 😉
Straight cut dowels, love the way you cut them into the bowl, I used my miter saw then they either break or fly somewhere where I can't find them 😂😂😂
Wood filler used as backup, also I think it is cheaper to mainly use dowels rather than wood filler, those pocket holes need a lot of filler.
Excellent video, thanks.
Love using bondo for paint grade projects. There are other brands out there as well. The biggest thing is that it doesn't seem to shrink and when painted weathers really well.
Yes, it's much more durable than wood filler.
I use durhams water putty when i need to fill larger voids. I think its plaster of paris based so hardens up fast. For small holes, nail holes, etc., i use spackling compound or Norms old trick of using glazing compound.
Bondo is my favorite it harden fast and quick easy to sand but it's a bit pricey versus dowels. Dowels there more steps to having a better finish once sanded if staining you can see where the dowels are. Bondo hides a bit better when staining on darker stains
should've varnished them to see the finished look 😊👍
+Theknotman1964 I typically only paint over filled pocket holes. So it was all about the smoothness for me.
Thanks for the demo brad, As i've just bought a Kreg pocket hole jig keep the videos coming
Sherwin Williams Shrink Free Spackle. Or any Spackle. Which will always be a better choice for paint up project over wood filler. Wood filler is for stains. Also, don't use caulk between walls and mouldings. Again Spackle. And if you want, you can mix a 2 to 1 Spackle/wood filler. Should avoid shrinking still but may be a better texture for you to work with. You can add 5% water to this. Then let set a few minutes. :)
I use pocket-hole joinery pretty exclusively (I don't have the capacity to do other types of joints, and I make functional furniture only, really). Only recently have I decided that I'd like to fill the holes. This was really, really helpful!
I recently was given an oscillating multitool that I thought I might use to cut off the excess plugs, but you've made that hand saw (the flush-cut trim saw) look really easy! and the idea of how to make my own dowels is useful as well.
I wish I'd found your video 2 days ago. I'm making a king size farmhouse bed (head & footboard rails and support frame. I did a lot if sanding yesterday. My store bought plugs did not fit very well. I will remember your video for my next project. That Bondo is impressive. Since I'll have to sand anyway and it looks like it is good alternative for most fillers assuming it's a painted, not stained project I'll be giving it a try.
Bondo is great! I had to use it on a newly finished work surface for my work bench which is 2 pieces of 3/4. It worked great! Yes, it's a different color but it's a work bench top.
Personally I use the sawdust and glue method, you can get a perfect match to the wood you are using, but you have to take your time mixing and applying, I am not surprised you didn't like the result, with the way you applied it.
The best filler for persons who do the job often is to use wood dust from different timbers. I collect mahogany timber dust, white deal wood dust and oak wood dust and store them in separate jars. Whenever i need to fill holes i make a mix of two types of timber dust and by so doing i can match the colour of the furniture. Darker wood dust will become even darker when put to use as is. White deal dust is the colour correcting element in the mix. Experience will help the user to make a matching mix. I often use PVA glue. PVA glue is practical to use, but it would absorb some synthetic stain and turn little darker. Animal glue or hide glue would not absorb synthetic stain. As far as softness for easy sanding, the filler mix must be tested before use. Again experience will help here too. The components are cheap but experience is necessary. PVA glue produces a very strong filler which could be almost impossible to flatten later. It does not take a lot of glue to produce a good filler. One could finish off the filling with a soft filler mix to facilitate sanding later. It is a question of ensuring a correct glue mixture and filling in layers.
I use saw dust and wood glue most but I mix my saw dust and glue on a paper plate, after I get the thickness I want I apply the filler with a putty knife and scrap up the excess right away works fine. Second method I use is wood plugs I make to fit my needs at that time.
Thanks for sharing.
+Robert Brunston thanks for the input!
It seems to me that if you added a angle cutting slot to your dowel cutting jig, and it half the cuts on the dowel at the angle of the pocket holes, and half straight, you could essentially double how many pocket hole plugs you could get out of a store-bought dowel. Also, by the way, you can also get straight plug cutters as well.
So I've tried the sawdust and glue before with similar results. Thinking I would get the best color match with that method and ended up with a mess and a horribly filled hole. Surprised with the Bondo and I wonder how well it holds stain and if the color is too far off. I've had success with store bought before but seeing the results from the straight cut dowels why spend the money. Great jig idea. Going to go with your jig and straight cut dowels from now on. Thanks for another great video.
Bondo might not be bad if your painting the project...looks like it would stand out if you were staining it. I tried the store bought plugs and wasn't happy with them either...I think i might try the straight cut dowels in whatever wood type I am working with. Thanks for the video.
+Deryk MacLeod you're welcome!
I have a commercial millwork shop specializing in plam commercial cabinets. We’ve been using bondo for years. Best for repairs and filling. IMHO.
That wood hasn't been finished. Test it with stain, varnish, paint, etc.
If you want to finish it you have a couple choices. Don't use pocket hole screws on visible faces or use vernier to cover the holes. Which you would want to fill the holes to ensure a smooth vernier application.
Thanks for taking your time and making the test, in such a broad and hq manner! And having a very hq recording+eding procedure! Cheers from Sweden 😁
You need to make another jig for making your own angled dowels and try it again. When you drill the hole into the scrap piece, you need to decrease the drilling dept by the the thickness of the head of the screw.
I use poplar dowels. Hold a piece of 180 grit sandpaper in your hand and quickly run the dowel through it a few times before cutting the plugs. Add glue to the hole---which will also lubricate the plug on insertion and makes pushing the pre-sanded dowel in a breeze. If you get the drilled hole depth on the jig correctly you will be very close to flush. The only issue I've come across is sometimes the thin end of the dowel doesn't want to lay flat against the surface while gluing, but throwing a weight or clamp on it for half hour or so will press it down and you'll be ready to sand.
+borwish borwish sounds like a decent plan, but I find the straight dowel method more straightforward. Just tap it in and cut flush. No fuss, and way faster to cut the plugs. One of the things I love about woodworking, more than one way to plug a hole!
I tried your straight cut method today and must admit that it definitely has a place in the workshop. I still believe my method is faster and cleaner, but requires a tablesaw or bandsaw and a production run. If only a few are need, your method is more suitable. I used the angled off cuts to do the other half of the pocket holes.
Feel like this is a dumb question, but what is the PURPOSE of plugging/filling a pocket hole? Is it with the expectation you can easily paint (not stain) over it without notice, and probably need pocket holes in visible areas to get correct joints? Thanks for any opinions.
You got it. I only use it for painting
Great video. I have a set of shelves with just over 100 pocket holes that I have been putting off finishing because I don't want to fill them all. Lol. I would be very curious to see how the bondo stains up. Might try that approach if it accepts stain well. I look forward to seeing a follow up video!
+thejonellwood 100 holes to fill sounds like a chore 😃
Thanks for the tip for the dowel and jig. I've been disappointed with the store bought plugs too. Great video!
+Krissy Ellis thanks, Krissy!
I use my bandsaw with a jig to cut my plugs from 3/8 dowels. I stick them in the holes with glue and bang them home with a Hammer and 3/4 stock using its edge against the plugs to set them flush. Works great.
Thank you or a review of each of these methods. It was very helpful. I make my own dowels so I prefer your cross cut dowel plug method. Also they don't cost me anything since I make them from off cuts, usually out of wood from the same project. Search dowel making jigs.
If you look at the PURCHASED WOOD plugs notice that BOTH ends are angled. I suspect the angle on the starting end helps with holes that are rough on the inside. ( If the dowel has been around a while, it might have swelled.)
yeah, you can microwave to shrink the dowel or plug too, it works
Wood putty has worked the best for me! I hate the Kreg pocket hole plugs.
KEG makes a tool now for cutting Face-Grain plugs. I looks and works very much like the pocket hole jig, but rather cuts plugs not holes.
Another filler that can be used is drywall compound aka spakle.
Also after using the straight cut method you end up with an angle cut plug if you want to use the off uts
+Stanley Shostak great points!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I appreciate it. By the way Kreg has discontinued walnut plugs and no longer sharpens it’s drill bits. Just bought a walnut dowel, 3/8 inch , for six dollars
You don't even need to fill them if the pocket holes are not going to be exposed. Even stainable wood filler, although filling the hole well, still doesn't stain up very close to the surrounding wood, at least the filler I have used. I think using a wood plug, whether it be a dowel or the angled plugs are the best answer, because it is made of real wood and will accept stain better than all the rest, and actually makes a rather nice look when you are done, with the grain of the board contrasting nicely with the grain of the dowel or plug. If you are just painting the finished product, then none of what I said really matters as the paint will cover up any of the methods equally well I would think.
Great video Brad. Question how about a video on how they stain up?
+Robert Lawrie I'll have to consider that as a follow up, Bob!
Robert Lawrie yes! Please do a video on this!
If you use the method I listed above it accepts stain and matches much better, most of my projects people can't believe I used pocket holes.
I think you will find with a stain finish the wood plugs will do best. Followed by the wood filler and glue sawdust mix. I would try different glues and see which is best. For smaller gaps try just rubbing sawdust into the squeeze out at glue up.
Dad was a fan of this product. www.waterputty.com/ Sands well just add water. Does not take stain though.
I, too, would like to see how each of these stain. We have been having issues with the staining part of our projects when it comes to filling the pocket hole
I love using Bondo because it is very forgiving.
As it's just a decorative cover, I'd never glue them in (& not use dust+glue / bondo) so they can be taken out if necessary. My bugbear is the pine dowels having their grain in other directions than the piece you're plugging --- go for contrasting wood, OR get the grain right (i.e., make your own dowel!)... especially for plywood dowels this is interesting =).
I use both sawdust-glue and wood filler. First a bit of glue in the hole, then add sawdust and gently pack it in. Use extra sawdust so the no glue gets to the trowel or finger (I use fingers). This takes up the bulk of the hole volume. Then finish with wood putty. Saves wood putty, which is more expensive.
20 odd years ago I knew a chippie in the UK who had to make a lot of Christmas display cabinets out of MDF and he always used easy-sand car filler with it. It was always spray painted before it went out so it was easy to hide I guess.
Also around the same time I had seen it a lot in the building of custom MDF car door speaker pods, and used it myself in this way. These are often covered in material but smooth rounded edges were generally preferred. Probably a natural step as those like me building the speaker pods probably always had car filter on the shelf for filling holes in the body work of the "old bangers" we drove around in!
So it's been around in the UK for years that I know of. Probably been around for longer than that too!
The next time you buy dowels take a caliber along with you and check the diameter in a couple different places and you’ll find that they vary in diameter that’s why some don’t fit real well. You could always put them in a drill chuck and hold a piece of sandpaper against them and get them to fit perfect. I make my own with the jig that I designed and built. It does not prevent me from having problems with over and under size dowels.
Interesting video. I tried the angled dowels that I cut and you're right about the fit. Then I switched to the Kreg plug cutter. I've had better success with that. Yes, it cost me a bit more, but I figured if I'm using a Kreg for pocket holes I should at least try the Kreg plug cutter. This way you can cut as many as you need out of left over wood.
+T Stewart yup, want to try it some time.
I use bondo as a filler on any project that gets paint. Especially restorations of existing woodwork.
Thanks. I found that I had to cut my dowels longer than you recommended. I really like the dowel cutting jig you recommended.
i have been looking for ways to fill pockets holes and this video was amazing, one question though, it wouldnt be a concern how you fill the pocket holes if you had to paint the wood but what happens when you use a stain on wood. how do these fillings match with the wood?
+AbdulW87 wooden plugs that match your project wood will always be best for that.
When using the glue and sawdust method , I think it works best in conjunction with a wood plug. There is glue that is stainable , mix that with sawdust from the same species of wood as the plug and your project. the resulting finish seems to work well with stain.
Great video. We've been discussing this on another builders post in a Facebook group. This was a great addition to all of our experiences. I definitely would like to see how they stain. The filler is hit or miss for me when it comes to staining, but it paints beautifully.
+Phillip Rowland glad it helped!
Thanks for the tips, I'll be using them in the near future. How the items stained wood, would have been great. Bondo looks good but I'm not sure how it will look after you station the wood.
Good video. One caveat regarding wood filler. If it is of the water clean-up variety you need to seal the patch with a non-water based sealer or the patch will be worn away when brushing on a water-based primer or paint.
Great video. Minwax has their version of bondo that has a more neutral color and does not dry pink. Quickest filler to sand on the market.
+Rich McCabe thanks, Rich. Have not seen that.
Here you go. www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler
we fill main hole with spackel or wood puddy first, sand lightly and fill in with bondo for a nice finish with no divits or sheen problems
I just love your videos. As a new woodworker, they are a concise, honest and candid way to learn how to build and get ideas. Thank you Brad!
The dowel jig is a great idea and works well!
Great video! There's apparently a 'Bondo Wood Filler' that HD carries that claims it can be painted and stained. About to give it a shot.
+Around Home DIY dang, I didn't see that there.
Once upon a time, I worked for a high-end custom wood furniture shop. We would often use bondo (had dispensers all over the shop). Our finishing guys would use some kind of oil pencils, etc, to draw in grain and color, I swear, (and I am picky) that you could not find those areas. Very much a credible God-send.
If your not in a rush and the project is being painted joint compound works the best they also make a light weight compound that dries fairly quick
+Jason B good tip!
Bondo seems to be the winner. If you use a “cheese grater” you can knock it down real fast after only 20 minutes. More hardener = faster cure.
I like your videos, having only recently discovered them. I'm a newbie, not actually working with wood as yet. Which brings me to my newbie question. I can understand drilling pocket holes for attaching wood to wood but when would there be a need to fill pocket holes? Thanks.
If you’re doing a painted piece and have some holes exposed
The straight dowel is the one I used. Thank you
In my journey to find the perfect wood hole filler(nail holes and gouges in interior trim work before paint) and for that particular purpose I'm blown away by Bondo "glazing and spot filler putty" it comes in the same consistency and container of toothpaste, it's red so you know exactly where your patches are, doesn't shrink, dries very hard and can be shaved off with a razor or sanded very easily for a perfectly smooth non-porous fill.
Nice! Never seen that
My experience has been the same as your results. I have tried the sawdust and glue mix a few times and it has always been a poor solution. I have been using wood filler and straight cut dowels for a while now. To cut my dowels I just put a piece of tape on the band saw to mark the length and slice them up quick and easy.
A good video. I have made a few projects using pocket holes recently and this is very useful. Thank you 👍😎🇦🇺