#53 - Domino Crib Sheet - Festool Domino Calibration
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 жов 2011
- HalfInchShy.com
The cursor hairs on the Domino are a user-calibrated part of the Domino fence. While the bottom of the Domino has a factory calibrated center line, you need to transcribe that line to the cursor hairs for accuracy when doing "pencil line" mortises.
This video shows you a quick way to do it on a new fence I received for my Domino.
So get your Domino, a T-10, some blue tape, and two chunks of scrap wood (maybe popcorn, too!) and let's calibrate that beast. - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for posting the video. You are right that when the domino arrived it was not dialed in. I didn't have a marking gauge (due to all the money I have spent on festool) on hand so I ended up just flipping the domino over and used their factory line that you pointed out in the video and was able to eyeball it from there. Tried a test piece and am really happy with how it aligns now. Thanks again for posting the video:)
Thank you very much for this video, I have owned the festool domino for over a year, and I couldn't get my joints perfect, I thought it was just a lack of skill on my behalf. But after calibrating the machine, what a pleasure, Thank you again. Great help.
I just used this technique to calibrate my new 500 and it worked great!! Thank you 👏👏👏👏
I just bought the Domino 500 and it was offset by .5 mm. Thanks for your nice video: I was lucky enough to succeed in getting it perfectly centered after listening your clear explanations. Great help for beginners like me !
Thanks, Paul, for the very helpful video. I had my doubts about the alignment of my 500 and this calibration confirmed that it was 1mm off. Unfortunately, I don't have enough leeway to line it up perfectly, so I'll have to keep in mind the slight variance. My XL was only about .25mm off and was easy to correct. Please keep posting. I've learned a lot about my festools, accessories, and after-market tools.
Thank you for showing this, this was immensely helpful.
Excellent! I have older version which I bought used. The pins aren't at the equal distance from the center. They were glued and they didn't come out anymore, so I disassembled them to clean them but forgot to calibrate them. Now I know how to do it. Thanks for the video.
Found the one video , awesome. Thank you, still looking for your blog
Thanks Paul. I was using my domino recently and noticed that my joints were off...now I know why and how to adjust to make them perfect. Thank you!
Excellent, Matt! Mine was off when I received it; once calibrated, you won't have to again. I've calibrated mine twice only because the second time, I made a video :)
Thanks again Paul for bailing me out once again....
Great video! Helped a lot.
Great tip thanks.
Thanks for the tip/ I used it ti calibrate mine which was 1/8 off.
Thank you!
Thanks for this - I've been trying to calibrate mine by eyeballing it, and I keep going too far the other way. The tape trick makes perfect sense.
I think I came up with an easier way to calibrate when I accidentally discovered mine was off. I was using the trim stop on 3/4" stock for cabinet door rails and marked a center line on the piece of wood to center it with the center mark on the bottom of the fence for the trim stop. When I accidentally flipped the wood piece over and the side with the center center pencil mark was showing, I noticed that the cursor was off looking down through the clear plastic. I just loosened up the tork screws and center the plastic cursor to the pencil line that was used to center on the bottom of the fence for the trim stop.
+Mike Hadler That would also be a good way to verify the trim stop is accurate. I have blue tape on one of my trim stops because I have to take a millimeter off on that side if I plan on tiling mortises down two sides. The only thing I can think of is the base itself is a hair wider than it should be (hence why my cursor was off?!) so I have to compensate on the trim stop. So maybe verify your trim stop. If yours are dead on, then this new way is another option! Always better to have multiple options!
Just when I thought the method in the video was genius, I read your comment. 😁
Thankyou. If I can't find a vernier I'll certainly adopt your method. Though at the moment I cannot adopt either as I don't own a Domino. ):
But I am trying to think of reasons why I should own one as they look like superb pieces of equipment.
I haven't had my Domino that long and never thought to calibrate it. It is definitely off! I guess this means I need to go buy a #10 torx Centrotec bit at Woodcraft tomorrow. I doubt very seriously if the local big box stores are going to have one. While I'm at it, I might as well buy a marking gauge too! Thanks for the great video's!
+Howard Hanger Your style of reasoning mirrors mine :)
+Half-Inch Shy I did one better. I saw Peter Parfitt's review of the Wera hand tools so i ordered a complete handle and bit set as well as a 1/4" drive socket set. Between Festool and now Wera, i'll have the best equipped shop on the block!
like! thanks for that, great vids keep it up.
Paul, I have the same problem that Patafreund had, but I have the TS 55REQ-Plus. I looked at Christopherson's manual as you mentioned, but the TS 55 REQ doesn't have the same screws as the previous model.
I also looked at his manual for the newer model and there's no mention of how to calibrate the blade angle. Using 3/4" nominal thickness, I'm off by .5mm.
Is there any adjustment I can make to correct this, or should I exchange the saw for a new one. Any help is greatly appreciated.
good video!! same issue and i wonder on hell how flat it must be , its almost impossible to get it dead right evey time , it can slip a tiny bit with vibration. and why do they use bloody T10 screws ,crazy
no wonder mine was off after using it for the first time last night. I'm a festool newbie!
It's surprisingly common. I messed up a shop project or two before suspecting.
Do you know any possible way to calibrate the center line on the actual baseplate? I bought a used domino and it has always been off.
I just bought the 500, tried it out, and it was out of alignment. Tried adjusting it, and couldn't slide the guage over far enough to get it aligned. Then, after unscrewing the guide the second time, when screwing it back on, the right screw stripped with no pressure being applied to the screw at all. Was very disappointed after hearing how dead on this is. And paying $1000 for this, you shouldn't have to adjust this. Is this normal or typical for them to be misaligned like this? Not sure if I got a lemon or what. But, this is having to be returned and exchanged. 😕
For me, I had to widen the elongated holes so the cursor could be properly aligned, but that's bad the screws stripped. Call Festool service. It is possible they'll just have you send back the fence part, though I guess that doesn't actually make the repair faster :/
Why not just square an accurate line on the face side and edge and then make the cut with the cursor placed accurately on the line.
Then check if the domino slot is off center to the edge line using an engineers vernier guage?
self calibration on a tool that costs 1000$, I don't understand how that is acceptable!
If you had nails I wouldn't judge you.
Paul, I have the same problem that Patafreund had, but I have the TS 55REQ-Plus. I looked at Christopherson's manual as you mentioned, but the TS 55 REQ doesn't have the same screws as the previous model.
I also looked at his manual for the newer model and there's no mention of how to calibrate the blade angle. Using 3/4" nominal thickness, I'm off by .5mm.
Is there any adjustment I can make to correct this, or should I exchange the saw for a new one. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I just downloaded the 55REQ manual and in the troubleshooting section, it mentions the toe-in setting and that page 22 has the instructions. Page 22 is about adjusting to multiple guiderails since you need the toe-in to match on saws to not cut the guide strip excessively with one. Maybe read that section and see if it helps answer your question; I don't have a 55 or 55REQ to compare against.
If you can't get it figured out, call Festool support (number is on your saw) and tell them the problem. They'll send you instructions, walk you through it, or let you send it in postage-paid (if within a year of ownership) to correct it.
Hope that helps!
***** Thank you for the reply and help. I waited so long to respond because I wanted to wait until a had a resolution to the problem I was having.
I looked at the manual you mentioned and wasn't able to correct the issue. I called my local dealer, who looked at my TS 55 REQ - Plus and was unable to fix the problem. They exchanged the saw for a new one. I tried out the new saw and had the same issue. My dealer called (Woodcraft) called me the next day to check up on me. They advised me to call Festool customer service, as did you.
In a 5 minute conversation today with Festool, this is what I found out...
Facing the rear of the saw (the end with the plug it and dust collection connections), loosen the thumb screws and tilt the saw to 45°. Loosen the T10 Torx screw that is at about the 2 o' clock position. Position the saw back to 0°. Loosen the other T10 at right below the handle. The metal bracket can then slide slightly left or right. Tighten the screws and thumb screws. Perform a trial cut. I did this twice before getting a perfect cut at 0°. I took the two pieces of wood and flipped the second one, as you demonstrated, and verified a perfect cut.
This sounds like a lot, but it was a very easy fix, and now it functions flawlessly.
Thank you again Paul. I thought your viewers could use this info, since I haven't seen it posted anywhere.
Excellent, thanks for posting it here. Normally a call to Festool USA will get you the information. I think they are reluctant to put a calibration like that in the manual or some people will just do it and make a mess. They probably want to verify the problem really exists :)
dragland7268 n