Wes, first ever comment, watched this video today, I'm an old millwright and have probably done about 50 motor bearing changes and fixes to bearing housings and shaft journals, winding changes etc. one thing I learned to do quickly is always check the temperature that the bearing reaches for the first 3 or more good runs, ie if you run it solid for an hour check it every 10 minutes or so, just touch it and if you can stand the heat generated for a count of 3 or more you're ok, 5 or 6 seconds you'll have to monitor it. over that stop the motor strip off the back end and ease a bit more out of the motor housing. hi temps will usually disappear after a few days running, some motors I've fixed I'd often check every time i walked past, just to be sure eh. I'm a yorksireman still and now a canadian/yorkshireman. keep up the good work, nice dog too! AlxM
Wes, you are definitely the prime example of what all mechanics should strive to be. Your explanation of what your doing is vocational school instructor level. I really like watching your videos partly because you don't come across as a know it all narcissistic ego driven person. You have no problem admitting it when you're wrong or you've made a mistake unlike so many other self proclaimed "professional" mechanics out there. Now, 3 years after this vid posted I find myself going back in your video library to past years to get my WWW fix satisfied regularly.
Most motor shops have a few holes in their work benches so the shaft can go in during assembly & reassembly. Less chance of rolling off bench and all around easier. If you don't want to drill through your work bench, you can cantilever a heavy board with a hole over the edge of the bench & clamp it down Great channel Les
Thanks for the video! Appreciate the clean family friendly content, just try to watch the language. Ps I know you strive to, sometimes it just slips out. Have a great day
I'm very thankful that utube just recommended this 5 years old WWW video. 👍👌👏 Extremely well done again and as always (video and work). I would love to watch more of this stuff in the current videos. As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards, luck and health to all of you (including the great rodent finder!). ;-)
Hi Wes. I reguards to your comment on hydraulic operated grinders, The machine you have is a small form grinder. You can do flat grinding but the function for a manual machine is to grind complex shapes into (usually) hardened steel. A digital readout and a form dresser usually completes the unit. You seem to be missing the handle for the x axis. Also, if you transport the machine the table should be blocked up to prevent the table bouncing on the bearings, if that happens you'll never get a finish worth having with out rebuilding the table and replaceing the bearings. The automatic grinfers are more for a machine shop and the manual machines are usually used in Tool & Die shops. As you can probably tell I was a Tool & Die maker. I enjoy your videos, hang in there.
Another awesome video! Can’t believe I haven’t found your channel in the past. I rebuild my fair share of motors… And have been very impressed with the “inexpensive“ megger insulation testers. I had a few of the expensive older units from the 80’s and 90s… And I still keep one around. But the new $30-$60 digital Chinese units do AMAZINGLY well. The popular ones on Amazon that I have tested, put out the exact high-voltage curve as my more expensive Meggers. ( checked on professional test equipment). Obviously wouldn’t suggest a cheaper Megaohm meter for every day full-time work. But for someone like myself who rebuilds less than a dozen motors per year… They work perfectly! That way you can take the portable $50 megger with you to the scrapyard and test motors before you waste any time with them
Eutectic wax. It changes phase at a specific temperature. (a eutectic compound is one whose phase change temperature is dependent on composition, so you can make a 'set' of crayons with specific temp changes) Theoretically, this can happen between liquid and gas phases too.
I know that an awful lot of water has gone under the bridge since you published this video, but balance of armatures on motors for surface grinders is actually very important. Having cleaned up the hammering on the fins of the armature it really should have been carefully re-balanced.. Typical defects in the finished ground surface from not doing so are 'herringbone' effects which can be very elusive to track down. Jones & Shipman used to go to enormous efforts to perfectly balance the spindles on the 540 series surface grinders that are a similar format to yours.
Your vids are great, thank you for not adding dumb music:) i'm over other youtube cookie cutter videos with the generic "music library" crap playing during time lapses etc lol or the lack of volume discipline when switching from a talking head shot to the montage part with loud music.
Very cool rebuild with great professional tips as well as high-quality necessary modifications due to excessive wear that don’t mess up the performance of the motor so it’ll run for many more years! As an electrician it rarely ceases to amuse me that many parts of most installationss often have a trade name with mild or quite overt sexual connotation. For example, the make-up box where you connect all the windings, feed conductors and grounds is often referred to as the “peckerhead.” Also, in case anyone doesn’t know…if you need to change the direction of any 3-phase motor all you need to do is change any two leads (A-B phase, B-C phase or C-A phase conductors) on the feed side to their corresponding winding wires in the make-up box and it will spin the opposite direction.
Two years to the day, love those motors, not engines but motors and they live a long time. I would use a drive on it if I was going to use. Handy as a pocket on a shirt if you need it. Takes more time to set up than use but its right when you do
The megger is checking the insulation of the windings. You can use it to test any wire insulation. The IEEE acceptable resistance is 1 meg ohms per 1000v plus 1 meg ohm. So the minimum acceptable limit on a 480VAC motor winding is 1.48Meg ohms on the megger test
The megger is used to check the integrity of the insulation. At work we use meggers to check that newly laid and already connected cables isn't damaged before the connection into the signalling plant is cut in.
That is correct. Meggers provide an "insulation breakdown test". They determine the integrity of the insulation on the individual winding wires to ensure that no shorting or grounding will occur to neighboring windings or the case under normal operations plus a safety margin.
I've replaced motor bearings outside 100+ degrees ambient, and with the bearings hotted up, for the life of me could NOT slip the bearings on the shaft. Took about 8 tries, then realized the shaft was too hot sitting in the sun. Handful of ice cubes on the shaft and *slip* goes the bearing
Wes is trying to replicate AvE's wardrobe... checkout those sleeve cuffs... anyhow new subscriber, just binge watched hours... love the videos. keep it up. You are a natural at this.
I have used (Green) 680 Loctite in a few case where a bearing doesn't fit snug in a bore, without any problem. That would be in a case where setting up and boring the bearing bore would be way harder to do. It's supposed to fill up to a .015 gap. I like your way of fixing it better for long term use though.
Just make sure the motor case is grounded. If you touch a 20 meg path to 120v+ you can feel a little tickle. Won't kill you, but it can be unpleasant. Just a comment. It looks like yours is properly grounded. Thanks again for the great videos.
Anything will work. Induction bearing heaters are used because they are fast. A good one can heat a 2-3 lbs bearing to 200F in just a few seconds. It might take 20 minutes on a hot plate. Stay tuned though, I just bought a dead induction bearing heater. It's next on the healing list.
Wes, you could make an electromagnet base for this if you still have it. Microwave oven transformers are very useful in making these. Just look on YT for "magnetic drill press vice".
Hi Wes, Maybe it’s just Chinese but your go button appeared to have a zero next to it and another button near by has a one on it. Seems a bit odd? Maybe I missed something. Nice job on the motor. Can’t wait to see you grinning something. Interesting back story. Kids pulled it apart and lost stuff. Sounds pretty normal 🤠
That's ISO standard markings. A one for on, and a zero for off if they're separate buttons. The zero with a one superimposed is the on/off button marking if there's only one button.
I understand what you are saying but I just rewatched the video. The machine definitely has separate on and off buttons and I see a big 0 on the "ON" button with no 1 superimposed on it. It is obvious which one is ON and which one is OFF off I just thought it was very odd to label it this way.
@@DavoShed I went back and looked at that part of the video after I posted my reply. I couldn't really see the controls good enough to say what's what.
All I do is grinding, and our older machines are nasty as fuck on the inside. 100% covered in grinding residue. The new machines are following that path because no one sprays them down
I noticed what might be an "asset tag" and I am pretty sure a calibration label on the torque wrench you used to secure the tie bolts. I say this as I am surprised to see such labeling on a tool unless the clamping force accuracy must be proven to a customer.
I'm sure I bought that torque wrench used and it was probably calibrated and tagged by the previous owner. For my purposes there is no need for calibration, but for ISO certified companies, they need to be calibrated annually.
That was interesting, great video. Im curious about something though, with the time you had in this job, what was the benefit of replacing the bearings and doing all that work versus getting a new motor?
I don't know. The issue here is that this is a metric flange mount motor that's pretty hard to find in the US. It definitely would not be worth rewinding. But, just bearings and a fan, I think it's worth it. I would guess a new motor would be in the $400 to $500 range by the time I had it shipped to me. I probably have something like $250 to $300 in this one with the initial cost, parts, and my time.
I have yet to try it myself, but did you see the video where AvE wraps a bearing in a wet towel then heats it up in the microwave? Search for "The Microwave Trick? It's the easy way to heat bearings! "
I finally replaced my long suffering Carhartt with a new one as featured in the more recent videos. It was pretty ratty looking, but it did keep me warm in the shop.
@@WatchWesWork it doesnt need to float that bad, you could have pricked the original bearing sleeve with a sharp punch, then use 609 or 620 loctite. Saves the trouble of dialing in.
.....21:40......numbers out...on anything.....for the next guy....who might be ME.....! School students worked on the motor? Like Mr. Pete says....they will mess it up...!
Supposedly, the students thought the motor would have powerful magnets inside, so they tore it apart looking for them. Then they lost some critical parts and I guess the school just tossed the motor. Of course, there are no magnets in a plain old induction motor...
Hey Wes, do you have a source that sells precision pulleys? I need one for the motor on my surface grinder. Don't ask how I dorked mine up. My Boyar 612 has a belt and it runs on a pulley on the motor shaft. Thank you sir!
Loctite bearing retainer will take care of that nooo problem. And also yes it can. It can take up way more then that much slop. If it holds on an excavator final drive bearing. It will hold those no problem
I've been into a lot of bearings that have been glued in with Loctite. IMO it does not work. Especially in an application like this where the bearing is supposed to be a sliding fit to allow for thermal expansion. I guess it's OK as a temporary fix if you need to wait for parts or something, but it absolutely does not replace a proper machined fit.
I watched you double tap a clicking torque wrench in another video, your wife's Toyota, but when you use a dial torque wrench you don't give that second yank of "if one reading is good, then one more must be twice as good" thrust. Can you explain that to me?
I push toolbox for a living. Got 2 torque wrenches in it plus a gauge room full of all kinds of torque wrenches with scales from few inch pounds and up to 600 ft/lb. That one is a two men job. I got to use it a while back. I use them often on everything except sheet metal screws. Got training to go with it too. The sales people take their time to let us know what is going on and how to use the tools properly. It must be the end product that is making a difference here, I think. Its not like I make rocket engines. We only repair and maintain cnc machines that make jet engine components. I've always been drawn to things that create great power and require lots of precission to make. Go figure! My search for a proper show of use of a torque wrench continues.
"Took it to my *local* electric motor shop" ... I'm starting to wonder if any small electric motor shops still exist, much less local. The degradation of ingenuity under the mantra of "you can just get a new one a Walmart or Horror Fright for $10.00"
It is a cage type of rotor. The stator windings create a rotating magnetic field which causes a electric current to induce in the cage rotor. This creates a magnetic field which attracts it to the stator field. This type of motor isn't synchronous because it needs to lag behind the stator field, if it didn't you wouldn't have any momentum which causes the motor to lagg -> induces current in the squirrel cage. sorry, i wasn't entirely clear - the motor runs asynchronously against the net frequency. The rotor is a squirrel cage type so electric current is induced in the aluminium bars. They are also called commutator free because you don't need external commutation (ie contacts on the rotor for feeding the rotor's windings with current.) Compare : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_motor en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commutator_(electric)
The end caps bearing bores should be a light press fit for the rotor bearing outer races, not a few tenths larger than the OD of the bearing race. The outer race has to be radially retained in place by the housing press fit, just as the inner race has to be a specific press fit range against the OD of the rotor shaft. The races are not to rotate, just the ball or roller bearings (ball in this case). The worn area in the end cap bearing bore was caused by not enough press fit; you duplicated the same error. Otherwise, you've done a stellar job.
Every motor I have had apart, from $60 Hung Lo special to $6,000 Fanuc spindle motor had a press fit on the front bearing and a sliding fit on the rear bearing. With the sliding fit and the wavy spring washer, there should be no issue with the race rotating. Grinders are very hard on bearings because of the grit that gets into everything. The original bearing was trashed and had high rolling drag. That is what wore the bearing bore. If both bearings have a press fit, there is no accounting for thermal expansion of the rotor shaft. Machine tool spindles are setup the same way.
A shop that I worked for had a customer that repaired industrial electric motors. They would send us all of the machine work, and focus on the winding, balancing, tear-down and assembly. The majority of the work that we did for them was boring and bushing the endbells, as shown. Most all of them would be 0.1-0.15" wall thickness, 0.001-0.0015" press on the sleeves (except for some of the aluminum endbells that have a cast-in sleeve, in which case, we would bore until that sleeve was removed), and the vast majority had 0.0002" slip fit for the bearings. We had a chart on the wall that had all of the inner and outer race diameters for bearings, and the amount of slip or press that they needed, but it was always a slip on the outer, and press on the inner. We used Loctite 620 when we pressed in the sleeve, because of the wicking, anaerobic cure, and high heat properties, but we probably only had it on-hand because of how often we used it.
I would not put a grease filled bearing in a oven. A 2rs rubber lipped seal is a much better bearing for a dusty grinder..locate bearing fit will fill a 5 thou gap with no problems, ask them. cheap usa china bearings only have 5 balls unlike a good RHP bearing that last 20 years. You need to learn how to fit bearings correctly
What problems? This isn't a Toyota Camry. You don't just wander into the local parts store and buy a new motor. This is a custom motor frame only used on surface grinders made in China and Taiwan, and even then, only by a few builders. Both the company that built this machine and the US dealer who sold them are long since out of business. Thanks for stopping by.
Wes, first ever comment, watched this video today, I'm an old millwright and have probably done about 50 motor bearing changes and fixes to bearing housings and shaft journals, winding changes etc. one thing I learned to do quickly is always check the temperature that the bearing reaches for the first 3 or more good runs, ie if you run it solid for an hour check it every 10 minutes or so, just touch it and if you can stand the heat generated for a count of 3 or more you're ok, 5 or 6 seconds you'll have to monitor it. over that stop the motor strip off the back end and ease a bit more out of the motor housing. hi temps will usually disappear after a few days running, some motors I've fixed I'd often check every time i walked past, just to be sure eh. I'm a yorksireman still and now a canadian/yorkshireman. keep up the good work, nice dog too! AlxM
I had no idea what a brilliant machinist you are! this is way KEWL! Thank you
Wes, you are definitely the prime example of what all mechanics should strive to be.
Your explanation of what your doing is vocational school instructor level.
I really like watching your videos partly because you don't come across as a know it all narcissistic ego driven person.
You have no problem admitting it when you're wrong or you've made a mistake unlike so many other self proclaimed "professional" mechanics out there.
Now, 3 years after this vid posted I find myself going back in your video library to past years to get my WWW fix satisfied regularly.
You certainly have a good wide skill set!
Most motor shops have a few holes in their work benches so the shaft can go in during assembly & reassembly. Less chance of rolling off bench and all around easier. If you don't want to drill through your work bench, you can cantilever a heavy board with a hole over the edge of the bench & clamp it down
Great channel Les
I'd like to give a few extra likes for the correct information about the IR thermometer. Drives me mad when misused.
@Immanuel Mario Nice try phishing bot.
Thanks for the video! Appreciate the clean family friendly content, just try to watch the language. Ps I know you strive to, sometimes it just slips out. Have a great day
I'm very thankful that utube just recommended this 5 years old WWW video. 👍👌👏 Extremely well done again and as always (video and work). I would love to watch more of this stuff in the current videos.
As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and health to all of you (including the great rodent finder!). ;-)
You have some serious money sitting there Wes. Nice!
Hi Wes. I reguards to your comment on hydraulic operated grinders, The machine you have is a small form grinder. You can do flat grinding but the function for a manual machine is to grind complex shapes into (usually) hardened steel. A digital readout and a form dresser usually completes the unit. You seem to be missing the handle for the x axis. Also, if you transport the machine the table should be blocked up to prevent the table bouncing on the bearings, if that happens you'll never get a finish worth having with out rebuilding the table and replaceing the bearings.
The automatic grinfers are more for a machine shop and the manual machines are usually used in Tool & Die shops. As you can probably tell I was a Tool & Die maker. I enjoy your videos, hang in there.
I picked up an electric coffee cup heater to heat bearings quite a few years back. It handles up to a 3 1/2” bearings. Works great
That was unique buy - surplus but still contained original Cosmoline!
Another awesome video! Can’t believe I haven’t found your channel in the past.
I rebuild my fair share of motors… And have been very impressed with the “inexpensive“ megger insulation testers. I had a few of the expensive older units from the 80’s and 90s… And I still keep one around. But the new $30-$60 digital Chinese units do AMAZINGLY well.
The popular ones on Amazon that I have tested, put out the exact high-voltage curve as my more expensive Meggers. ( checked on professional test equipment). Obviously wouldn’t suggest a cheaper Megaohm meter for every day full-time work. But for someone like myself who rebuilds less than a dozen motors per year… They work perfectly! That way you can take the portable $50 megger with you to the scrapyard and test motors before you waste any time with them
I have done a few of these, very common in the coffee industry, grinders and fans for roasters! Very cool.
Eutectic wax. It changes phase at a specific temperature. (a eutectic compound is one whose phase change temperature is dependent on composition, so you can make a 'set' of crayons with specific temp changes) Theoretically, this can happen between liquid and gas phases too.
I know that an awful lot of water has gone under the bridge since you published this video, but balance of armatures on motors for surface grinders is actually very important. Having cleaned up the hammering on the fins of the armature it really should have been carefully re-balanced..
Typical defects in the finished ground surface from not doing so are 'herringbone' effects which can be very elusive to track down. Jones & Shipman used to go to enormous efforts to perfectly balance the spindles on the 540 series surface grinders that are a similar format to yours.
Your vids are great, thank you for not adding dumb music:) i'm over other youtube cookie cutter videos with the generic "music library" crap playing during time lapses etc lol or the lack of volume discipline when switching from a talking head shot to the montage part with loud music.
That is beyond my realm of expertise but enjoyed watching just the same. Very nice work.
Love these old Machining video @Watch Wes Work
At 8:18 Wes says "Fucking terrible" if anyone wants to hear him swear lmao
Very cool rebuild with great professional tips as well as high-quality necessary modifications due to excessive wear that don’t mess up the performance of the motor so it’ll run for many more years! As an electrician it rarely ceases to amuse me that many parts of most installationss often have a trade name with mild or quite overt sexual connotation. For example, the make-up box where you connect all the windings, feed conductors and grounds is often referred to as the “peckerhead.” Also, in case anyone doesn’t know…if you need to change the direction of any 3-phase motor all you need to do is change any two leads (A-B phase, B-C phase or C-A phase conductors) on the feed side to their corresponding winding wires in the make-up box and it will spin the opposite direction.
Yeah, as he was saying, "the um, the um" i was thinking, "You can say it Wes...................peckerhead. 🤣
Nicely done young man!
Man, I have been watching your recent stuff, but I had no idea you had Booth or Fenner style 4-jaw skillz. Nice.
You are a very bright and talented man. Thanks for sharing!
Wow after all them years still had the packing grease on it still @Watch Wes Work
You could always put a servo on the longitudinal feed and drive it and set stops with a small microcontroller.
Two years to the day, love those motors, not engines but motors and they live a long time. I would use a drive on it if I was going to use. Handy as a pocket on a shirt if you need it. Takes more time to set up than use but its right when you do
Rewatching old WWW videos.
My *favorite* are blind tie bolts that go through the motor body and stick to the magnets :-)
The megger is checking the insulation of the windings. You can use it to test any wire insulation. The IEEE acceptable resistance is 1 meg ohms per 1000v plus 1 meg ohm. So the minimum acceptable limit on a 480VAC motor winding is 1.48Meg ohms on the megger test
Great job and a pleasure to watch.
The megger is used to check the integrity of the insulation.
At work we use meggers to check that newly laid and already connected cables isn't damaged before
the connection into the signalling plant is cut in.
That is correct. Meggers provide an "insulation breakdown test". They determine the integrity of the insulation on the individual winding wires to ensure that no shorting or grounding will occur to neighboring windings or the case under normal operations plus a safety margin.
Double boost would say that bearing was piss wobbly slack. Nice job Wes
I've replaced motor bearings outside 100+ degrees ambient, and with the bearings hotted up, for the life of me could NOT slip the bearings on the shaft. Took about 8 tries, then realized the shaft was too hot sitting in the sun. Handful of ice cubes on the shaft and *slip* goes the bearing
Wes is trying to replicate AvE's wardrobe... checkout those sleeve cuffs... anyhow new subscriber, just binge watched hours... love the videos. keep it up. You are a natural at this.
8:18 you know it’s an old video when you hear a swear
Painted inside end-bells... did not needlessly paint/epoxy or varnish a good winding... A+.
Your other solution could have been to turn the bearing recess to fit a larger outside diameter bearing with the same shaft size and save a step.
Really enjoy your videos
I have used (Green) 680 Loctite in a few case where a bearing doesn't fit snug in a bore, without any problem. That would be in a case where setting up and boring the bearing bore would be way harder to do. It's supposed to fill up to a .015 gap. I like your way of fixing it better for long term use though.
Just make sure the motor case is grounded. If you touch a 20 meg path to 120v+ you can feel a little tickle. Won't kill you, but it can be unpleasant. Just a comment. It looks like yours is properly grounded. Thanks again for the great videos.
You are the man!
I'm sure the damage on your rotor was from using a pickle fork or drving in a pry bar when they were getting the old bearing off
Thumbs up 👍 grind away
I've seen cone shaped bearing heaters that support just the internal race. I just used a precision hotplate when I did the bearings on my Fadal.
Anything will work. Induction bearing heaters are used because they are fast. A good one can heat a 2-3 lbs bearing to 200F in just a few seconds. It might take 20 minutes on a hot plate. Stay tuned though, I just bought a dead induction bearing heater. It's next on the healing list.
nice job wes
Wes, you could make an electromagnet base for this if you still have it. Microwave oven transformers are very useful in making these. Just look on YT for "magnetic drill press vice".
the temperature cran you touch the cran to the pice to see what temp you are at. when it melts you are there or over.
Nice one, thanks.
18:11 i think the SKF Portable induction heater TWIM15 can fix that problem
Ziplock bag and a pot of boiling water would do for bearing heat.
Hi Wes,
Maybe it’s just Chinese but your go button appeared to have a zero next to it and another button near by has a one on it.
Seems a bit odd?
Maybe I missed something.
Nice job on the motor. Can’t wait to see you grinning something.
Interesting back story. Kids pulled it apart and lost stuff. Sounds pretty normal 🤠
That's ISO standard markings. A one for on, and a zero for off if they're separate buttons. The zero with a one superimposed is the on/off button marking if there's only one button.
I understand what you are saying but I just rewatched the video. The machine definitely has separate on and off buttons and I see a big 0 on the "ON" button with no 1 superimposed on it. It is obvious which one is ON and which one is OFF off I just thought it was very odd to label it this way.
@@DavoShed I went back and looked at that part of the video after I posted my reply. I couldn't really see the controls good enough to say what's what.
Wes nice work.
From the old days.
EVERYTHING you do is interesting -
All I do is grinding, and our older machines are nasty as fuck on the inside. 100% covered in grinding residue. The new machines are following that path because no one sprays them down
I work on a lot of grinders. You can't even look at a grinder without getting filthy.
I noticed what might be an "asset tag" and I am pretty sure a calibration label on the torque wrench you used to secure the tie bolts.
I say this as I am surprised to see such labeling on a tool unless the clamping force accuracy must be proven to a customer.
I'm sure I bought that torque wrench used and it was probably calibrated and tagged by the previous owner. For my purposes there is no need for calibration, but for ISO certified companies, they need to be calibrated annually.
Wes
I would like to see a video grinding something on this machine, if you get chance.
That was interesting, great video. Im curious about something though, with the time you had in this job, what was the benefit of replacing the bearings and doing all that work versus getting a new motor?
I don't know. The issue here is that this is a metric flange mount motor that's pretty hard to find in the US. It definitely would not be worth rewinding. But, just bearings and a fan, I think it's worth it. I would guess a new motor would be in the $400 to $500 range by the time I had it shipped to me. I probably have something like $250 to $300 in this one with the initial cost, parts, and my time.
That makes sense. what type of antiseize do you use? as in what base metal
Benefit was we got to watch the rebuild! I learned a lot of new stuff!
I have yet to try it myself, but did you see the video where AvE wraps a bearing in a wet towel then heats it up in the microwave? Search for "The Microwave Trick? It's the easy way to heat bearings!
"
Good score
My work worn hoody sleeves look identical to yours.... Homeless person sleeve ends! Excellent videos tho.
I finally replaced my long suffering Carhartt with a new one as featured in the more recent videos. It was pretty ratty looking, but it did keep me warm in the shop.
I'm right there with you. The good ones last... Despite cosmetic "defects" around the edges.
J B WELD ON END CAP TOO HOLD THE BEARING.
No. It has to float.
@@WatchWesWork it doesnt need to float that bad, you could have pricked the original bearing sleeve with a sharp punch, then use 609 or 620 loctite. Saves the trouble of dialing in.
Nice!!
.....21:40......numbers out...on anything.....for the next guy....who might be ME.....!
School students worked on the motor? Like Mr. Pete says....they will mess it up...!
Supposedly, the students thought the motor would have powerful magnets inside, so they tore it apart looking for them. Then they lost some critical parts and I guess the school just tossed the motor. Of course, there are no magnets in a plain old induction motor...
@@WatchWesWork Didn't they listen at the physics lessons ??? There is magnets in an induction motor but they aren't permanent magnets...
Hey Wes, do you have a source that sells precision pulleys? I need one for the motor on my surface grinder. Don't ask how I dorked mine up. My Boyar 612 has a belt and it runs on a pulley on the motor shaft. Thank you sir!
Loctite bearing retainer will take care of that nooo problem. And also yes it can. It can take up way more then that much slop. If it holds on an excavator final drive bearing. It will hold those no problem
I've been into a lot of bearings that have been glued in with Loctite. IMO it does not work. Especially in an application like this where the bearing is supposed to be a sliding fit to allow for thermal expansion. I guess it's OK as a temporary fix if you need to wait for parts or something, but it absolutely does not replace a proper machined fit.
Wes Johnson Services for sure. It is not made for a sliding fit. It is for press fit bearings that are worn bad enough to be sliding fit bearings lol.
Please send surface machine head repair video.
Do u find any difference between silver. And copper antiseez.
Beat the crap out of it when removing the bearings. Beat on rotor and clamp the bearings in a vise....
Who knows. Those balance lugs are actually lead, so they are super soft. It's hard to say what the last guy was thinking.
I watched you double tap a clicking torque wrench in another video, your wife's Toyota, but when you use a dial torque wrench you don't give that second yank of "if one reading is good, then one more must be twice as good" thrust.
Can you explain that to me?
Nope!
I push toolbox for a living. Got 2 torque wrenches in it plus a gauge room full of all kinds of torque wrenches with scales from few inch pounds and up to 600 ft/lb. That one is a two men job. I got to use it a while back. I use them often on everything except sheet metal screws. Got training to go with it too. The sales people take their time to let us know what is going on and how to use the tools properly. It must be the end product that is making a difference here, I think. Its not like I make rocket engines. We only repair and maintain cnc machines that make jet engine components. I've always been drawn to things that create great power and require lots of precission to make. Go figure!
My search for a proper show of use of a torque wrench continues.
@@petelyczek5728 l.p.
Put some tin foil on the bearing and press in and off you go brother…
Do you still do machine work or did you switch to mechanical now?
I do some.
Wishing you great success in 2020. I can tell you are somebody folks will love doing biz with. Much respect. Jim
"Took it to my *local* electric motor shop" ... I'm starting to wonder if any small electric motor shops still exist, much less local. The degradation of ingenuity under the mantra of "you can just get a new one a Walmart or Horror Fright for $10.00"
I can't understand how brushless motors work.
It is a cage type of rotor. The stator windings create a rotating magnetic field which causes
a electric current to induce in the cage rotor.
This creates a magnetic field which attracts it to the stator field.
This type of motor isn't synchronous because it needs to lag behind the stator field, if it didn't you wouldn't have any momentum which causes the motor to lagg -> induces current in the squirrel cage.
sorry, i wasn't entirely clear - the motor runs asynchronously against the net frequency.
The rotor is a squirrel cage type so electric current is induced in the aluminium bars.
They are also called commutator free because you don't need external commutation (ie contacts on the rotor for feeding the rotor's windings with current.)
Compare :
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_motor
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commutator_(electric)
They look...they look fuckin terrible!!!...haha choice words
The end caps bearing bores should be a light press fit for the rotor bearing outer races, not a few tenths larger than the OD of the bearing race. The outer race has to be radially retained in place by the housing press fit, just as the inner race has to be a specific press fit range against the OD of the rotor shaft. The races are not to rotate, just the ball or roller bearings (ball in this case). The worn area in the end cap bearing bore was caused by not enough press fit; you duplicated the same error. Otherwise, you've done a stellar job.
Every motor I have had apart, from $60 Hung Lo special to $6,000 Fanuc spindle motor had a press fit on the front bearing and a sliding fit on the rear bearing. With the sliding fit and the wavy spring washer, there should be no issue with the race rotating. Grinders are very hard on bearings because of the grit that gets into everything. The original bearing was trashed and had high rolling drag. That is what wore the bearing bore. If both bearings have a press fit, there is no accounting for thermal expansion of the rotor shaft. Machine tool spindles are setup the same way.
A shop that I worked for had a customer that repaired industrial electric motors. They would send us all of the machine work, and focus on the winding, balancing, tear-down and assembly. The majority of the work that we did for them was boring and bushing the endbells, as shown. Most all of them would be 0.1-0.15" wall thickness, 0.001-0.0015" press on the sleeves (except for some of the aluminum endbells that have a cast-in sleeve, in which case, we would bore until that sleeve was removed), and the vast majority had 0.0002" slip fit for the bearings. We had a chart on the wall that had all of the inner and outer race diameters for bearings, and the amount of slip or press that they needed, but it was always a slip on the outer, and press on the inner. We used Loctite 620 when we pressed in the sleeve, because of the wicking, anaerobic cure, and high heat properties, but we probably only had it on-hand because of how often we used it.
It's not a rotor, it's an armature
No. Armatures have commutators and brushes. This is a permanent magnet rotor.
I would not put a grease filled bearing in a oven. A 2rs rubber lipped seal is a much better bearing for a dusty grinder..locate bearing fit will fill a 5 thou gap with no problems, ask them. cheap usa china bearings only have 5 balls unlike a good RHP bearing that last 20 years. You need to learn how to fit bearings correctly
You don’t seem to have any idea what you’re talking about.
just think, if you weren't so cheap you could get a new motor and have none of the problems. good luck with your patched up motor.
What problems? This isn't a Toyota Camry. You don't just wander into the local parts store and buy a new motor. This is a custom motor frame only used on surface grinders made in China and Taiwan, and even then, only by a few builders. Both the company that built this machine and the US dealer who sold them are long since out of business. Thanks for stopping by.
You're wrong kids. Everything in this video is expensive not just a price of parts & tools .. also very high knowledge & skills operator .
Tht you, etc. SWose of you telling him how to, why didn't you etc. Shaddup and go make your own videos.
Did you just say the f word about the balance weights lol
Now now, let us not get the Goo-machine all upset...
got some gay bearings eh?
You dont look like you have any idea what you are doing and dont like any negative comments. very poor show
I checked, but I didn't see your video showing how do do it "properly"... It's been a year, certainly you've had time to prepare one?