Excellent! This is exactly the way to do it. I would add some alternatives for whoever is interested. I use a 3"dia. thick walled aluminum tube ~12" long in the 4jaw. This tube is a nice balance between stiffness and length - it won't sag with 10" of stick out, and is stiff enough to resist tool push off. I undercut the middle area to save time. I also use a HSS shearing tool to ensure tool pressure is not effecting the measurements.
Hey Wes. This stuff is awsome. We're all struggling with old equipment and try to make the best of what we have. I have revisited these videos now as I just bought a well used Schaublin 102N-VM. It was very dirty, so after cleaning its time to evaluate. Documented over on instagram. The Schlesinger document is very useful, but I feel its very easy to be drawn into the sub-thousends rabbit hole. i dont know why we all get so facinated by accuracy but we want our equipment to be perfect i guess. Keep it coming, your doing a great job
Very nice Wes, very well explained. I enjoyed it. Having the ability to adjust the headstock is a plus if you ask me. Thanks for the shout out Wes, I will return the favor, I had allready planned to give you one on my next video anyway😊
The adjustable headstock is surely cheaper to make. They don't have to worry about scraping or even precise machining to get the initial alignment correct. I'm sure the designers of your Hendey would roll in their graves to think of such a design!
Great Job Wes! With all of the pluses as far as your lathe specs and features, coupled with your abilities, it just made no sense to shop for another used lathe ....I'm sure glad that you fixed it, and particularly, made videos of your repairs and the results. Please keep the videos coming..... some of us "old guys" need to take periodic breaks during the day, and it gives us something interesting and productive to do! I will be looking forward to you addressing and making videos of your crosslide issues, as I have a couple that need checked and likely scraped in to repair.
I kid you not, the day after I ordered the new bearings a beautiful Mazak engine lathe popped up on craigslist for a nice price. It's still tempting me.
Go For it! It'll take the pressure off hurrying the CS repair. Work em back n forth getting each dialed in, then keep the best one that suits your needs
That was very well done. I own a relatively new lathe but it is chinesium. I will definitely use these methods to check my alignment! Thank you for taking the time to UA-cam and share this!.....Subscribed!
Thanks for the video, started aligning my headstock today. Started with .010 in about 5"... it was way out of wack. Got it to .004 today and will work the rest out in the AM! Thanks again!
Great result in surface finish! All that work paid off. Good bearing and some fine tuning and some TLC will make a Chinese lathe much better, as you've noticed.
I would have been pretty brokenhearted if the new bearings did nothing to improve the finish. I'm not much of a video maker. I'm still learning a lot about using the camera and editing. I don't know how to do music or anything fancy.
Speaking for myself I like content and not fluff. I see a lot of commenters on other channels saying they liked the earlier videos people made that were more "raw, sincere, unpolished etc".You speak well and explain yourself clearly, that is not easy.
Like you said, "The bearings are the heart of the machine". It has been my experience with anything that uses roller bearings if you feel anything but smooth they are shot.
I agree with you. I think some of the youtube guys reach a point where they run out of new things to show in their videos and people get bored. Eric the Car Guy is an example. Everyone loved his early repair videos on Hondas and he got really popular. Then he quit working on customer cars and just made youtube videos. But, the work on customer cars is what people really wanted to see.
Perfect teaser title Wes: "Where's the money shot?" Hah! Wow, that looks so, so much better, definitely doesn't disappoint. I'm really looking forward to the scraping-in videos, I know those will be terrific :)
Great video! I have that very same book but seeing your demo makes all that overwhelming diagrams a little less daunting. I almost forgot I had that book. Definitely going to pull that out as I work on my first machine scraping project
@@WatchWesWork That's the cool part. I saw a Henry Ford Documentary about their V8 on youtube and they were holding tenths making the fist V8 a long time ago.
Man again, and again, thanksnfir taking the time to share your knowledge. As i am just getting into machining, and well, since my budget is miniscule, old machines are all i can have. But content like this makes the search fir how to so much easier. You should set up a partion account, you would prob make a few bucks.
I'm not sure about Patreon or Adsense. I make the videos because I want to and I like to see videos from others. If I can use UA-cam to promote my business, that's a good option. But, I don't see it as a money maker.
You fill a niche that is lacking, skilled tradesman sharing their craft. I changed careers in my late 30s from software engineering to machining and maintenance and rebuilding. I don't have TV, I watch what I want to learn and practice. For me it's a no-brainer, I kick in a buck a month to people sharing things I want to learn. Keith Rucker tried to go the UA-cam only route a year or two ago, and people (myself included) kept pushing him toward Patreon. I think it would be worth it for you.
Google is making money from your content, no harm in taking a bit of it. Your subs' experience is no different either way, and worse case scenario you get something nice at the end of the year. Or fund a vocational scholarship or something if spending the money on yourself doesn't feel right.
Thanks well explained, I like your logic. I bought a new chinese lathe(Gearhead, no plastic parts anywhere), manufactured as a bench lathe type, its not the smallest type(350Kg). It however has a cabinet and driptray(optional) with flood coolant hole to drain. Seeing it resting on the cabinet, I decided to fit a 12MM thick metal flat surface beneath driptray and cabinet with the idea it would give me a "nonflexable" surface beneath lathe to calibrate it from, unlike it resting on a metal cabinet alone. I looked at various alignment videos to get an idea. This week I tackled the BED flex/deformity. A waterlevel/vintage/starrett type showed the bed was twisted slightly towards the tail end, I understand the difference between "levedlling" and "twist" as its confusing initially it seems for a lot, my lathe is not 100% level, but I dont care about that, is minimal in any case. As i fitted it with 4 bolts, it produce a taper cut of .15mm/ 0.0059 inch ...large towards the tailstock at 8CM lenght aliminium rod about 15mm thick. I thought about the bench type lathe and what happens at the factory. They manufacture and assemble it on a workbench, then calibrate it, not on the cabinet setup beneath, cabinet is optional. So today I took another approach based on that. I kept the headstock bolts fastened, went to the tailend of the bed and loosen both bolts. I then took feeler gauges and looked for gaps. I find that the far side at the rear of bed around the bed is "floating" at .007/.008/.005 gaps towards the driptray/metal plate. I left it like that and took a cut. Now the taper was down to .04mm/0.00157inch, improvement for me. I then remember what you said about using a dial indicator to measure movement for "bearing". I attached the dial indicator to driptray, position it on bed near above the bolt tail end far side, and boy does it works nice. I then tighten the "floating bolt" till I see movement , play around in that visinity and got the taper down to .02mm/0.000787 inch. (Forgot to say I did insert those 3 shims as they fitted, so it is shimmed but not torgued to death.) Now I will appreciate it if you can tell me in your terms how well you think this is at cut lenght of 8cm, I used very light cuts due to stickout. I did made sure it cuts all the way through visually as well. So now I have a lathe that cuts 0.00078 inch taper at 8cm/15mm thick. I realise that this may not be all, next thing I want to try the Rollies Dad Method and see what that relates to. I did read some negatives about it, maybe just give it a test for experience.
Wes, did you ever fix the wear in the cross-slide? I don't see any subsequent videos to this one. This was a great series and I'm interested in seeing more.
XLNT progress Wes! Watching you transform this lathe from a complete pile of $#!T into a machine that will make you money many times back is priceless. Even as it sits you have improved the machine greatly and that in itself is just not something anyone can do, even many machinists that call themselves professionals. This will be a decent machine after you finish up with the turdlettes needing to be fixed. I often get criticized for the language/words I choose, but it probably has something to do with where I was raised...for that I apologize up front to those I offend...but as we say where I come from (and live), nice f#@$ing work! :-)
Did you ever work on the cross-slide? I've been enjoying your video "archive", but can't see a cross slide one. Or did you just get a new lathe in your new shop?
Wes, how are you disassociating the error of the chuck, from that of the spindle, or do you always use this lathe with that chuck? As you know, chucks have their own specs for axial and radial error, runout, wobble, etc.
Thank you for your time and effort , it's really appricated. While my lathe is pretty humble and simpler, it just a used DF1224g, it does need seals and a belt badly. Seeing you vid, makes the spindle much less intimidating. I've done bearing clearances on paper machines, but that's little different, we used sledgehammers to tighten the K-taper nut. How many tenths should I be looking for when I pry up.?
I'm not sure. Every bearing design is a little different. Typically the front bearing has pre-load, so you should see no movement on the indicator when checking it. You might see a slight movement just from actually bending the spindle slightly by prying on it. There is some "feel" to it as well as using the indicator.
Understood. I've used long feeler gauges, math, and the porta-power with dial indicators . Blessed be the company that buys hydraulic nuts.I was kinda thinking for the lathe a 2x4 and a 1/10s
jackyd7@att.net when using an indicator on the horizontal or on the centerline as you were the dimension difference is the movement you need to make. If you were tramming then you would use half the indicator total reading for your adjustment, or shim for tailstock height. As you indicated for the height you would shim the difference of the two dimensions.
Thanks. I try to remember to keep things moving. When I edit the videos I often find that I spent a lot of time describing what I'm about to do even though I have a video that shows it better than I could ever describe. So I just cut it out and spare you the repetition.
the 2 thou you re mentioning are related to the headstock's pivoting point , not the radius or dia. , it is the same as calculating the smalest side of a rectangle triangle
I just finished an alignment on a Jet GH-1660ZX with the guidance of this video. Thank you, Wes!
Excellent! This is exactly the way to do it.
I would add some alternatives for whoever is interested.
I use a 3"dia. thick walled aluminum tube ~12" long in the 4jaw. This tube is a nice balance between stiffness and length - it won't sag with 10" of stick out, and is stiff enough to resist tool push off. I undercut the middle area to save time.
I also use a HSS shearing tool to ensure tool pressure is not effecting the measurements.
Wow Wes your a machinist! Great set of videos ( I love it when old machine are renovated and brought back to spec), thumbs up.
Hey Wes. This stuff is awsome. We're all struggling with old equipment and try to make the best of what we have. I have revisited these videos now as I just bought a well used Schaublin 102N-VM. It was very dirty, so after cleaning its time to evaluate. Documented over on instagram. The Schlesinger document is very useful, but I feel its very easy to be drawn into the sub-thousends rabbit hole. i dont know why we all get so facinated by accuracy but we want our equipment to be perfect i guess. Keep it coming, your doing a great job
Very nice Wes, very well explained. I enjoyed it. Having the ability to adjust the headstock is a plus if you ask me. Thanks for the shout out Wes, I will return the favor, I had allready planned to give you one on my next video anyway😊
The adjustable headstock is surely cheaper to make. They don't have to worry about scraping or even precise machining to get the initial alignment correct. I'm sure the designers of your Hendey would roll in their graves to think of such a design!
Great Job Wes! With all of the pluses as far as your lathe specs and features, coupled with your abilities, it just made no sense to shop for another used lathe ....I'm sure glad that you fixed it, and particularly, made videos of your repairs and the results. Please keep the videos coming..... some of us "old guys" need to take periodic breaks during the day, and it gives us something interesting and productive to do! I will be looking forward to you addressing and making videos of your crosslide issues, as I have a couple that need checked and likely scraped in to repair.
I kid you not, the day after I ordered the new bearings a beautiful Mazak engine lathe popped up on craigslist for a nice price. It's still tempting me.
Go For it! It'll take the pressure off hurrying the CS repair. Work em back n forth getting each dialed in, then keep the best one that suits your needs
Still one of your best video series!! Good info. Thank you Wes!!
Great Job Wes. Thorough and well thought out presentation. Glad the bearings worked out so well. You will know this lathe better than the designers.
That was very well done. I own a relatively new lathe but it is chinesium. I will definitely use these methods to check my alignment! Thank you for taking the time to UA-cam and share this!.....Subscribed!
Thanks for the video, started aligning my headstock today. Started with .010 in about 5"... it was way out of wack. Got it to .004 today and will work the rest out in the AM! Thanks again!
Wow, that's pretty far out. Good luck!
Great result in surface finish! All that work paid off. Good bearing and some fine tuning and some TLC will make a Chinese lathe much better, as you've noticed.
Excellent video. Super clear and easy to understand. Thank you for sharing.
First video of yours I've seen lot of great info and you are very intelligent. Definitely got my sub, a like, and comment! Keep up the good work!
Clean, concise and very informative. High quality work. Thanks
Thanks Wes. I like your channel. No fancy intro, obnoxious music or begging; just machine shop footage. Them $1200.00 finishes sure are pretty!
I would have been pretty brokenhearted if the new bearings did nothing to improve the finish. I'm not much of a video maker. I'm still learning a lot about using the camera and editing. I don't know how to do music or anything fancy.
Speaking for myself I like content and not fluff. I see a lot of commenters on other channels saying they liked the earlier videos people made that were more "raw, sincere, unpolished etc".You speak well and explain yourself clearly, that is not easy.
Like you said, "The bearings are the heart of the machine". It has been my experience with anything that uses roller bearings if you feel anything but smooth they are shot.
I agree with you. I think some of the youtube guys reach a point where they run out of new things to show in their videos and people get bored. Eric the Car Guy is an example. Everyone loved his early repair videos on Hondas and he got really popular. Then he quit working on customer cars and just made youtube videos. But, the work on customer cars is what people really wanted to see.
Good work man! Results speak volumes. I was hoping to see a test cut with the same speeds and feeds as the awful initial result.
Perfect teaser title Wes: "Where's the money shot?" Hah! Wow, that looks so, so much better, definitely doesn't disappoint. I'm really looking forward to the scraping-in videos, I know those will be terrific :)
Loads of great info in your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
love that parallel in the chuck trick. thanks
It's kind of a quick and dirty check of your machine. I've seen an actual tool made for this purpose, but the parallel works just as well.
Great video! I have that very same book but seeing your demo makes all that overwhelming diagrams a little less daunting. I almost forgot I had that book. Definitely going to pull that out as I work on my first machine scraping project
It's old info, but nothing has really changed in the last 110 years.
@@WatchWesWork That's the cool part. I saw a Henry Ford Documentary about their V8 on youtube and they were holding tenths making the fist V8 a long time ago.
Great video and you do an excellent job describing the work flow which is the most important thing 👍👍👍👍
Great stuff, Wes. I just stumbled across your channel the other day. Now I've got to catch up on your older vids.
I hope you enjoy.
Man again, and again, thanksnfir taking the time to share your knowledge. As i am just getting into machining, and well, since my budget is miniscule, old machines are all i can have. But content like this makes the search fir how to so much easier.
You should set up a partion account, you would prob make a few bucks.
I'm not sure about Patreon or Adsense. I make the videos because I want to and I like to see videos from others. If I can use UA-cam to promote my business, that's a good option. But, I don't see it as a money maker.
How ever you wanna do it, just kerp the knowledge coming.
You fill a niche that is lacking, skilled tradesman sharing their craft. I changed careers in my late 30s from software engineering to machining and maintenance and rebuilding. I don't have TV, I watch what I want to learn and practice. For me it's a no-brainer, I kick in a buck a month to people sharing things I want to learn. Keith Rucker tried to go the UA-cam only route a year or two ago, and people (myself included) kept pushing him toward Patreon. I think it would be worth it for you.
Google is making money from your content, no harm in taking a bit of it. Your subs' experience is no different either way, and worse case scenario you get something nice at the end of the year. Or fund a vocational scholarship or something if spending the money on yourself doesn't feel right.
There should be no ads in the videos unless I put them there. I can't control the banner ads and other things on the page.
Hi Wes, you have some really great to the point content, I really enjoy all your videos! Thanks for the time you take to make them. Brian
Thanks well explained, I like your logic.
I bought a new chinese lathe(Gearhead, no plastic parts anywhere), manufactured as a bench lathe type, its not the smallest type(350Kg). It however has a cabinet and driptray(optional) with flood coolant hole to drain. Seeing it resting on the cabinet, I decided to fit a 12MM thick metal flat surface beneath driptray and cabinet with the idea it would give me a "nonflexable" surface beneath lathe to calibrate it from, unlike it resting on a metal cabinet alone. I looked at various alignment videos to get an idea.
This week I tackled the BED flex/deformity. A waterlevel/vintage/starrett type showed the bed was twisted slightly towards the tail end, I understand the difference between "levedlling" and "twist" as its confusing initially it seems for a lot, my lathe is not 100% level, but I dont care about that, is minimal in any case. As i fitted it with 4 bolts, it produce a taper cut of .15mm/ 0.0059 inch ...large towards the tailstock at 8CM lenght aliminium rod about 15mm thick.
I thought about the bench type lathe and what happens at the factory. They manufacture and assemble it on a workbench, then calibrate it, not on the cabinet setup beneath, cabinet is optional.
So today I took another approach based on that. I kept the headstock bolts fastened, went to the tailend of the bed and loosen both bolts. I then took feeler gauges and looked for gaps.
I find that the far side at the rear of bed around the bed is "floating" at .007/.008/.005 gaps towards the driptray/metal plate. I left it like that and took a cut. Now the taper was down to .04mm/0.00157inch, improvement for me. I then remember what you said about using a dial indicator to measure movement for "bearing". I attached the dial indicator to driptray, position it on bed near above the bolt tail end far side, and boy does it works nice.
I then tighten the "floating bolt" till I see movement , play around in that visinity and got the taper down to .02mm/0.000787 inch. (Forgot to say I did insert those 3 shims as they fitted, so it is shimmed but not torgued to death.)
Now I will appreciate it if you can tell me in your terms how well you think this is at cut lenght of 8cm, I used very light cuts due to stickout. I did made sure it cuts all the way through visually as well.
So now I have a lathe that cuts 0.00078 inch taper at 8cm/15mm thick.
I realise that this may not be all, next thing I want to try the Rollies Dad Method and see what that relates to. I did read some negatives about it, maybe just give it a test for experience.
Good explanation of quality subject matter - Great job.
Great video series and extremely helpful; this is exactly what I was looking for!
Really enjoying the content Wes! I really excited about your channel man and very much appreciate the info and the way it's delivered. Thanks man.
Thanks. I'm glad people enjoy it.
Great video, my head stock is .004 off in the same direction, thus my reason for watching. Thank you, very informative.
Excellent explanation and video.
This guy is a genius.
This is very nice video. Thanks for post it!
Well done! really like your videos, looking forward to a cross slide scraping video :)
thanks for sharing! looking forward to more.
Wes, did you ever fix the wear in the cross-slide? I don't see any subsequent videos to this one. This was a great series and I'm interested in seeing more.
So well explained that even I understand it 😅
XLNT progress Wes! Watching you transform this lathe from a complete pile of $#!T into a machine that will make you money many times back is priceless. Even as it sits you have improved the machine greatly and that in itself is just not something anyone can do, even many machinists that call themselves professionals. This will be a decent machine after you finish up with the turdlettes needing to be fixed.
I often get criticized for the language/words I choose, but it probably has something to do with where I was raised...for that I apologize up front to those I offend...but as we say where I come from (and live), nice f#@$ing work! :-)
Even a clapped out Chinese lathe needs a little loving after 20+ years.
Did you ever work on the cross-slide? I've been enjoying your video "archive", but can't see a cross slide one.
Or did you just get a new lathe in your new shop?
Great job!
Thanks for sharing..
I really enjoyed it
Sweet finish with a 431 insert. Nice to see that after all your effort.
Did you ever do the scraping on the ways?
Wes, how are you disassociating the error of the chuck, from that of the spindle, or do you always use this lathe with that chuck? As you know, chucks have their own specs for axial and radial error, runout, wobble, etc.
My 1964 Gromatic 140 toolroom lathe has a v-way mounted headstock. Stout little machine at just under a ton.
Thank you for your time and effort , it's really appricated. While my lathe is pretty humble and simpler, it just a used DF1224g, it does need seals and a belt badly. Seeing you vid, makes the spindle much less intimidating. I've done bearing clearances on paper machines, but that's little different, we used sledgehammers to tighten the K-taper nut. How many tenths should I be looking for when I pry up.?
I'm not sure. Every bearing design is a little different. Typically the front bearing has pre-load, so you should see no movement on the indicator when checking it. You might see a slight movement just from actually bending the spindle slightly by prying on it. There is some "feel" to it as well as using the indicator.
Understood. I've used long feeler gauges, math, and the porta-power with dial indicators . Blessed be the company that buys hydraulic nuts.I was kinda thinking for the lathe a 2x4 and a 1/10s
The SKF catalog has all kinds of fancy hydraulic nuts and even hydraulic bearing seats. It looks like a lot of expensive equipment to buy.
Nice job, keep them coming love the content..Dave
great vid, thanks for sharing
jackyd7@att.net when using an indicator on the horizontal or on the centerline as you were the dimension difference is the movement you need to make. If you were tramming then you would use half the indicator total reading for your adjustment, or shim for tailstock height. As you indicated for the height you would shim the difference of the two dimensions.
How would you check for up/down angular alignment. that the spindle axis is parallel to the ways?
Thanks for sharing
No Nonsense great content Thank you !
Thanks gr8 content
Would be interested to know how much you have in this lathe total, original purchase price plus restoration
Nice video like always :)
like the speed of your vid's good info not a bunch of side talk. keep it up.
Thanks. I try to remember to keep things moving. When I edit the videos I often find that I spent a lot of time describing what I'm about to do even though I have a video that shows it better than I could ever describe. So I just cut it out and spare you the repetition.
I've always wondered how to do that my dad had a tool and die shop and I'm not great at math.
the 2 thou you re mentioning are related to the headstock's pivoting point , not the radius or dia. , it is the same as calculating the smalest side of a rectangle triangle
Is that lathe a Humit ?
Needs more algorithm
Thumbs up 👍 running lube 🏃 😂
Your smaller test cut is not the pivot point, so you cannot just divide by two.
scrape it all do it properly it will serve you a lifetime.
That's the plan. I just need the time.