Restoration 4" Craftsman Jointer / Planer
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 бер 2017
- Support my channel when you shop on Amazon:
Micro Jig GRR-RIP Block : amzn.to/2nk5iY4
Lenox 9-in-1 Screwdriver : amzn.to/2mQCTLv
Festool Sander : amzn.to/2mh1V35
Jointer : amzn.to/2mgJKL4
Belt : amzn.to/2mgQYyt
Blades : amzn.to/2njVHQU
Be Sure to Follow Me!
UA-cam / johnnysshop
FaceBook / realjohnnysshop
Twitter / realjohnnysshop
Instagram / johnnysshop
Website johnnysshop.net/ - Навчання та стиль
HI all. I have the exact model but it was all out of adjustment, particularly on the INFEED table that made the jointing process impossible. After some hunting and pecking, here is what I found to remedy the alignment problem, with the tables. It is quite a simple procedure.
First, turn the unit over so you can see the underside. Keep the table adjustment knob on your right and back it off so the table is lowered somewhat. Next, remove the plastic dust port cover and the half moon shaped dust port adjustment plastic fitting. Then remove the metal plate (4 screws) that covers the cutting blade assembly. This helps expose two hex bolts and two small "set screws" that are on the outside of the two bolts. I don't believe you need to remove the front cover (sorry...just can't remember) but if you do, it is only one small screw on the top/middle and two small machine screws underneath on both corners. NO need to disconnect and wiring!
Now, look to the right and you will see two more identical hex bolt heads and two more small "set screws". These bolts/screws are your adjustments. Often these small screws are missing but essential to properly adjust the infeed table. Now, loosen all four hex bolts but do not take them out. Back them off about 1/2 inch. Next loosen the four set screws (you will need a hex Allen Key) almost to the point of falling out, but be careful not to drop them. (I bought for new ones from ACE Hardware - 1/4-20 size that are a bit longer than the original ones and have a flat head screw driver head for adjustment). Also, make certain you lower the infeed table with the adjustment knob before you start making any adjustments with the bolts and set screws. At this point, the infeed table will be quite loose and flopping around....that is GOOD.
OK, here we go: Flip the jointer on its long side, resting the fence side on your work table. This will give you access to see both the top of the tables and the underside where the bolts/screws are. Take a good straight-edge and place it on the OUTFEED table to check for plane. The infeed table will be quite low at this point. Now, starting with the left most hex bolts, start tightening the one near the fence. It will begin to bring that side/edge of the table down to the height of the outfeed table which is NOT adjustable. You can also tighten the other hex bolt, little by little, to keep up with the first bolt you started with, alternating from one to the other. Now, as you tighten the two hex bolts slowly, you will see that the edge of the infeed table will be brought closer to the level of the outfeed table. When you get it to be at the same level as the outfeed table, stop tightening the nex bolts, but now you tighten the two set screws to LOCK it in place. Crank them down pretty well but do not go crazy with torque.
OK, on to the right side bolts which will level the right side of the infeed table to be on the same plane as the outfeed table., Again, starting at the fence side bolt, slowly tighten it to lower the right side of the table, alternating between each of the two bolts to keep things even. When your straight edge shows no gaps between the two tables, most notable at the cutting head area, then tighten the two set screws as above. You can check to make certain the infeed table is now in perfect plane with the outfeed table by sliding the corner of your staight edge from one side of the table to the other (from the fence to the outside edge. If there is any pitch from one side to the other, readjust the offending bolt and hex screw. TAKE YOUR TIME. When you are satisfied with the leveling, slightly re-tighten the two hex bolts just a bit to snug them up and put pressure on the set screws (keeps them from backing out).
Go grab a cool beer or other adult beverage....you are done. Total time to do all this was about 15-20 minutes. It takes more time to describe the process than to do it. Now you can turn the knob to raise the table to just BELOW the outfeed table (I used a credit card thickness) to the desired depth) and the jointer will be in near perfect plane and level.
Hope this helps. Dr. Z
Thanks for your explanation of this, very good, what size motor does this have
Any chance you have a video of this? I think my set screws are missing :/
Karen zagar. Thank you so much for your instructions and your post finally got my leveled following your instructions awesome thank you.
Hi Dr. Z, I need your help. I have the same model jointer but it is missing the adjustment knob. Could you possibly take a photo of the underside showing how the adjust screw works? I would really appreciate it. Send any photos to rjcavazos1@gmail.com.
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
Dr. RJC
I just bought from
Pawn shop and this is the info im searching for. Thanks very much!
OK...a slight correction on my lengthy note. In the 4th paragraph, I stated that once you loosen the hex bolts and set screws that hold the infeed table in place, the table will be quite LOW. NOT CORRECT! With the unit on its side, the table will most likely be quite loose and move ABOVE the cutting head and outfeed table. It is from THIS point that by tightening the hex bolts you will bring the table DOWN to meet up with the outfeed table edge and then lock it into place with the small set screws. Sorry. Dr. Z. If you follow the instructions below, you will end up with a really powerful little jointed. OH and one more tidbit....
These small units most often just plane a board on its harrow edge, right? I was told by a wood working friend of mine to attach several thicknesses of sacrificial board to the metal fence (there are a few holes in it to do that) to keep from wearing out just the small portion of the blades near the fence. By adding different thickness to the fence, you can better distribute the cutting wear along the entire 4 1/8 th long blades. Worth a try. Dr Z
This is the best comment. I’m glad I read on! It’s such a common sense move, yet I don’t think I would’ve ever thought to do this!
I was gifted a jointer similar to this, but not quite the same. Probably a different year/model. I’m using your video as a guide to restore mine. It’s in nearly the same condition and purportedly works great, according to my papa. It just needs some TLC and a set of knives. Not bad for my first jointer. I’m of the opinion that restoring older tools like this is the best way to truly understand how they work. Seeing, feeling, and experiencing how every part works in a system with every other makes you a better woodworker/craftsman in the end.
I appreciate the video. Years on and it’s still helpful to this guy!
Great, thanks
I'm actually picking one of these up today and will refurbish in a similar fashion!
Me too just like it, thanks for the video,I found that when setting the knife heighth, two flat maginets on a piece of paper works very well I changed the button head Allen screws to bolts so I can get in there with a wrench to tighten while the magnets are holding the knives
Thanks for the great video! The belt just broke on my machine and I found the cutterhead bearings were very rough. I decided to turn the machine on its front side and just oil the rear bearing in place... letting gravity pull the oil into the bearing as I rotated the cutterhead back and forth. I turned the machine on its backside to oil the front bearing the same way. this worked very well and took less time without the risk of damaging the bearings by disassembly/ reassembly without the correct pullers.
This video is just what I needed. I just discovered today that I have one of these that was buried in the garage that I obtained many years ago. It works, I just need to give it a good cleaning.
Great job on your restoration. Love the find!
Just scored one that needs love. Thank you for posting your process!
Thank you for watching!
This is great! I picked up the same exact model earlier this week at a garage sale, and I’ll be restoring it thanks to this video!
How much did you pay?
Karen zagar thank you so much for your post and how to adjust feed table I bought a Sears Craftsman 4 and 1/8 jointer planer and it was out of whack I followed your instructions and got it leveled thank you so much for your instructions and post.
Where can I find replacement blades?? I have the exact same machine. Thanks in advance!
Please help! I have this one but I cannot figure out how to take the belt off. How did you do it?
Anyone know where I can find a replacement motor for this! I was given one with a toasted motor. Wires are bare.
Anyone found a replacement motor for one of these? I picked one up for $40 that died halfway into a cut on softwood, wondering if anyone know of a jerry rig to get it going again?
My Dad just gave me his 1990s Crafstman planer but the 6-1/8inch and it's in bad shape too. I wanted to replace the knives but not sure how to set the height of the blades. Are you just focusing that they are both the same height on each side and for both blades?
What model is this?
10:30 dang the spring set up for the blade cover to my 6 1/8 craftsman jointer/planer (model number 149.23628) is totally different and has a lot more parts.
where is the motor on this one?
I hope you are able to answer this...can you tell me how you were able to change the belt? I see you pull pieces apart but I cannot get the big Rolly thing to come off. Yours seems like it just popped off. My belt is shredded.
Any one know the model number for this joiner?
Perfect video. No bullshit 10 minute intro of "I've been getting a lot of requests to make a video like this blah blah blah". Captured all steps and time-lapsed well. ONLY improvement would be to show the products for another second or two so we can write them down.
Thanks, I should have slowed it down a bit.
Excellent video. I inherited exactly this machine and was about to start restoration.
One minor note. I don't think it will hurt anything, but you put the spring back on the cover pivot pin; but you took it out of the hole just to the right. I had the same problem, trying to figure out which went where. The spring has its own screw that sits just outside the plastic cover.
I would be grateful if you can post a video about this.
Thanks for the video. My boss gave me a similar one. Where did you find the belt?
Ellie Leydsman Amazon
Hi, I've got a joint similar to this one, it was my dad's, I've tried to get it to run but it won't, I can get the blades to rotate but that's it. Got any ideas?? Thanks, David
How much would you pay for something like this pre restoration
What grit did you hit the tables with to remove the rust?
220
What did you put on your sander to remove the rust?
220 grit sandpaper
Hi, what is the name of the tool you used to remove the lock washer? Not sure how else to remove it. Thanks for your help!
Snap ring pliers
SMB awesome thanks!
11:48 veo un movimiento extraño en la base.
Shouldn't those bearings be grease packed? Wont they just burn up at those high rpms without a thick lubricant?
How did you know how far forward to install the new blades?
The manual gives some info but just make them all level.
Top dead center without lifting the wood on the receiving end. 👍🏼
I also have the same model a d the cutting blade just WILL not turn when I turn the switch on. It toy's but just will not go. I cleaned the whole thing also. Please share
When looking at my lower belt bearing, it seems to be out of 90 degree alignment. When I took the cover off (because I thought belt broke), it had slipped off the bearings. When i put the belt back on and hand rolled the belt, the belt slowly moved to edge of smaller/lower bearing which is what I think led to slipping off. Is there a way to align the lower motor/bearing? I see 3 screws underneath the surface plate and above the motor when looking from below.
hi I have one just like it, where did you get the blades for it?
amzn.to/2piDKae
@@Johnnysshop A+ sir. I will read through the rest of the comments but i would not have minded you explaining a little here and there. I will do the homework, you have done great work!
@@krisbredwell2644 I'll try to answer any questions that I can!
@@krisbredwell2644 I'll try to answer any questions that I can!
Where did you buy those blades?
eBay I believe.
Thanks buddy. I have one of these and our video fill in lots of blanks.
Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
One thing this video failed to show was removal of ball bearings. Make sure that they are removed from inside out as they are retained by the frame of the jointer. Noob mistake was to assume bearings were pressure fitted and damaged them by trying to tap them from the outside. Whoops! Over all awesome video def helpful.
Great job... thanks for sharing!
There is one of these exact same models on craigslist for $100 - is it worth it? Or am I better off getting a $350+ amazon model?
Any chance you knwo where i can get a Key my dad lost the key to ours it was used once by my brother than tossed in its box no key.. i want to use it Love that its loud i hate the neighbors lol But i cant seem to find a Key for it might just knock it out and put in a swicth
I’m not sure. Maybe eBay?
@@Johnnysshop sadly no go all well switch it is
I'm selling my entire unit for $40 if you feel like driving to Northern California! (motor is possibly going out)
Has anyone found replacement knives for this model Jointer-Planer?
I just bought one last night thinking there would be aftermarket knives for it, but am having problems finding anything out there. Sears/Craftsman has discontinued many parts for this model and I cannot find an aftermarket solution.
I’m 9 months behind but no, just got this planer and was looking for blades. Looks like they discontinued them and I can’t find them anywhere. You ever find some?
There's a coil spring (dumb idea) that resides under the red plastic "safety guard" that likes getting invited into the blade spinning mechanism of death. Be careful you don't allow those two to meet. I totally understand why this thing was discontinued. I bought it (almost free) and the blades cost me more than the tool itself. That spring mechanism needs to be redesigned. I may take a spring out of a clothes pin and re engineer it to work in the same fashion.
Amazon has them. Just look for 4 and 1/8” jointer blades/knives
I've been using this jointer for about 30 years. It works OK for its' intended purpose. Way too loud though. My neighbors don't like the noise. Now I use two hand planes instead: a good Stanley scrub plane and a good Stanley jack plane. I get better results, no noise, and much better satisfaction. Thanks for your video.
I agree, it's not the greatest and very loud. I usually use my track saw or a low-jack plane now.
Good god those Stanley scrub plane and Stanley jack plane that I looked at in a google search are expensive.
how did this end up working. the quick test cuts at the end didnt look like they were that great. is there alot of tear out ?
It was fine, I was just cutting pine in the video and going too deep.
Nice, I see these on craigslist for around $50. was contemplating getting this or a new power hand plane
I ended up selling it just because it wasn't large enough. I now joint with my planer with homemade jig or just use a hand plane.
I have a delta planer. are you talking about the sled jig? was thinking of making one. and im guessing you hand plane the edges then ?
Correct, a sled jig. It's not ideal but it works. My issue is space. I'd get a jointer in a heartbeat of I had the space. I've been using a track saw to joint one side and then taking it over to the table saw.
Hi...i did more research after my previous post and found out that your craftsman jointer/ planer is a planer...to plane something means to make it flat..which it does....todays planers are not planers ...they are thinknessers.....they do not create a flat surface they just create same thickness.....
Yeah, I suppose any jointer could do that tough :)
8:18 YOU WIN.
thats fukin beauty
This just looks like a jointer, no planer. Am I wrong?
That is not a planer in todays meaning of a planer...correct?....it is a jointer only.
Correct. They used to label them that way.