We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
I believe the pigtail mark was marked on the wrong/unjointed side @4:50. Should be the other side that is jointed since it was resting against the fence.
Oh man, you just took my doubts away about that taper after jointing the wood. Now i know thats a normal effect. Pfieuw. Thanks! Very clear and in depth explenation ;)
I am trying to figure out if there is any use for my 6" Craftsman jointer? It has a nice 1/2 horsepower motor with belt drive, and very sharp cutters. But I don't own a planer. I am wondering if the jointer could be used for cleaning up rough edges of rough lumber, before ripping them on a table saw? I recently acquired a jointer and it seems useless without a planer?
This works well IF you work with narrow stock or have a large and very expensive jointer Alternatively very light alternating passes through your planner usually achieve a very flat board. Using a straight line rip jig (with a table saw or a hand held circular saw) will achieve a straight edge faster and with a longer capacity. My 6" Powermatic jointer usually just collects dust and rust.
Before you prepare your project lumber as shown, how can you tell when your lumber is dry enough? Are wood moisture meters reliable and worthwhile, or is there a rule of thumb how long you should keep your lumber in room climate before you even start preparing it? Otherwise, isn't there a risk of wasting your effort as the remaining moisture change and tensions inside the wood still keep reshaping it?
If it's thick or long lumber, I would mill it in stages. Do a rough milling first, let it sit in the shop climate to acclimate for 2-3 days, go check and see if it moved, if it didn't budge you are probably good to go to mill to final dimension, if it moved then do it again roughly and then wait a few days and repeat. The basic idea is not to do it all in one go so you don't release stress and have the lumber move on you when you have no room to mill it again.
By jointing one side to get it straight, the board will likely not be the exact width anymore, along the long side of the board. For example one side may be 5-1/4 inches wide and the other end may be 5-1/2 inches wide. As long as you put the straight edge along the table saw fence, you can cut it to something like 5-1/8 for the entire board.
Two thoughts: 1) Most people who would need this basic level of instruction probably do not understand WHY a jointer works to flatten the first surface--i.e., because of the higher outfeed that is the same height as the cutters, while the infeed is lower. I think you need to explain that in this level of instruction. 2) It's obvious to most of us, but you did not state that the face you just jointed goes DOWN when feeding it into the planer. (Did I miss that? For the table saw, you made a point of saying the jointed edge goes against the fence ) Yea or nay?
@Thomas Truther I know this is an old video and this may be none of my business, but your snobbish attitude about lower priced tools is exactly one of the reasons so many people are afraid to get into woodworking. They either don't have thousands to spend on "superior machines" or cannot justify the expense. I am quite happy with my "junk" WEN thickness planer and I have completed several beautiful furniture projects using it. My boards may not come out of the planer smooth as a baby's butt, but that is what my sander is for. My table saw is a jobsite model that cost about $500. It does a wonderful job as well. I have splurged a bit more on a few other stationary power tools but almost all of my hand power tools are lime green and say Ryobi on them. There is no reason to make people think they have to spend Ten grand to outfit their shop to make nice projects. If you shop around it's quite possible to buy the basics including a table saw, miter saw and planer and a few hand tools for thousand bucks, even less if you hold off on getting a planer.
Is there any risk to running your edges through a jointer a second time? I ask this because I ran my pieces through the jointer two or three times already (i.e. face jointed then edge jointed). Afterwards I ran them through my thickness planer and ended up with ripping the last edge at my table saw. When I laid out the boards for a dry fit (i.e. I'm laminating them to make a table top) I noticed that a few of the boards had what appears to be a "not" flat surface. There were noticable gaps between a couple of the boards when I did a dry fit. I'm thinking of edge jointing a few of them a couple more times to flatten out the edges. I have a little wiggle room as it relates to width of the boards. Am I on the right track? Thanks for your consideration and ??reply. I am somewhat of a newbie, but perhaps not a total "novice". I wish I could include a picture of what I'm building but I don't think that's possible.
Because, in an actual project, that last rip cut will take it down to size. It is the same reason you don't waste time squaring the ends until you actually use it.
@@lukesailing5379 Wouldn't it be though? The other edge is going to be square with either face. So, if you put either of those faces against the jointer fence, wouldn't that make that 4th edge square with the face, which in turn would mean it's parallel to the other edge?
@@urgon6321 1st you flatten the face. 2nd using that flat face against the fence you can streighten the edge. technically you could flatten the other side with the flat edge against the fence, but it would be very hard to hold an edge that thin against the fence. by doing the face and edge on the jointer you can then set the planer up to the exact width and thickness that you want. hope this helps.
That's true of all rough lumber. There's a reason a 2x4 isn't actually 2 inches by 4 inches. The rough dimension 2x4 is never that thick when actually squared on all sides. You know the way you want any furniture to be Or else you have gaps in the furniture, a bumpy surface, etc
Ugh I hate the American unit of measurement, which heavily involves fractions... 5/8... 7/8. For God's sakes just use decimals. They were invented a thousand years ago.
It's almost as if saying five eights is quicker than saying point six hundred twenty-five Fractions exist solely for efficiency. We could say it in decimal form but when we use a 16th scale on measuring tools it's far less simple than saying 1.1cm for example. Also if you struggle with fractions idk what to tell you
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Best video I’ve seen describing these tools for a noob like myself
Very well done,in depth and easy to follow,Thank You for helping us new wood workers to understand the whole milling process!
I believe the pigtail mark was marked on the wrong/unjointed side @4:50. Should be the other side that is jointed since it was resting against the fence.
I saw the same thing, had to back up and re watch to confirm - pigtail on the face was on wrong side vs what was advised to do. still good video.
@@auklon3372 Ah yes, I should've added that this is still a great video and incredibly helpful!
I just bought a jointer. Thanks for the technique tips.
Thank you for the effort! Q: I assume you are not supposed to move beyond the blade area with your fingers? Why do you do?
Oh man, you just took my doubts away about that taper after jointing the wood. Now i know thats a normal effect. Pfieuw. Thanks! Very clear and in depth explenation ;)
Clear and concise video. Thanks for the instruction, and thanks for keeping it straightforward
I am trying to figure out if there is any use for my 6" Craftsman jointer? It has a nice 1/2 horsepower motor with belt drive, and very sharp cutters. But I don't own a planer. I am wondering if the jointer could be used for cleaning up rough edges of rough lumber, before ripping them on a table saw? I recently acquired a jointer and it seems useless without a planer?
Excellent and concise explanation.
This works well IF you work with narrow stock or have a large and very expensive jointer
Alternatively very light alternating passes through your planner usually achieve a very flat board.
Using a straight line rip jig (with a table saw or a hand held circular saw) will achieve a straight edge faster and with a longer capacity.
My 6" Powermatic jointer usually just collects dust and rust.
I have only a jointer and table saw. I don’t have a planer. How would I do it with just those tools?
Thank you
Thanks ,what would be the recommended way to bevel the edges on 45* angle ,positive angle on one side and negative on the opposing edge
Most jointer fences tilt to 45 degrees for beveling. Another option would be to bevel those edges with a 45 degree chamfering bit.
Before you prepare your project lumber as shown, how can you tell when your lumber is dry enough? Are wood moisture meters reliable and worthwhile, or is there a rule of thumb how long you should keep your lumber in room climate before you even start preparing it? Otherwise, isn't there a risk of wasting your effort as the remaining moisture change and tensions inside the wood still keep reshaping it?
If it's thick or long lumber, I would mill it in stages. Do a rough milling first, let it sit in the shop climate to acclimate for 2-3 days, go check and see if it moved, if it didn't budge you are probably good to go to mill to final dimension, if it moved then do it again roughly and then wait a few days and repeat. The basic idea is not to do it all in one go so you don't release stress and have the lumber move on you when you have no room to mill it again.
GOOD JOB, BLESS YOU.
I am trying to figure out why you used the table saw on the last edge instead of the jointer? I'm looking into getting a jointer soon.
Because the good side is against the saw fence and “mirrors” it.
Make sense?
Because it would require more passes, take off more than necessary, and is more likely to not make an S4S board unlike the table saw
Very helpful. Thank you.
Why not use the jointer on both ends instead of table saw?
By jointing one side to get it straight, the board will likely not be the exact width anymore, along the long side of the board. For example one side may be 5-1/4 inches wide and the other end may be 5-1/2 inches wide. As long as you put the straight edge along the table saw fence, you can cut it to something like 5-1/8 for the entire board.
That makes sense now, thank you.
loved this
Two thoughts: 1) Most people who would need this basic level of instruction probably do not understand WHY a jointer works to flatten the first surface--i.e., because of the higher outfeed that is the same height as the cutters, while the infeed is lower. I think you need to explain that in this level of instruction. 2) It's obvious to most of us, but you did not state that the face you just jointed goes DOWN when feeding it into the planer. (Did I miss that? For the table saw, you made a point of saying the jointed edge goes against the fence ) Yea or nay?
@Thomas Truther I know this is an old video and this may be none of my business, but your snobbish attitude about lower priced tools is exactly one of the reasons so many people are afraid to get into woodworking. They either don't have thousands to spend on "superior machines" or cannot justify the expense. I am quite happy with my "junk" WEN thickness planer and I have completed several beautiful furniture projects using it. My boards may not come out of the planer smooth as a baby's butt, but that is what my sander is for. My table saw is a jobsite model that cost about $500. It does a wonderful job as well. I have splurged a bit more on a few other stationary power tools but almost all of my hand power tools are lime green and say Ryobi on them. There is no reason to make people think they have to spend Ten grand to outfit their shop to make nice projects. If you shop around it's quite possible to buy the basics including a table saw, miter saw and planer and a few hand tools for thousand bucks, even less if you hold off on getting a planer.
@Thomas Truther he would rip you to shreds using any brand of tool, hand or powered. You may as well throw your superior machines in the bin.
I don't understand. Was he adjusting the depth of cut on each pass with the jointer? He doesn't go over anything on the depth of cut settings.
No guard on table saw blade?
Excellent video, thank you.
Is there any risk to running your edges through a jointer a second time? I ask this because I ran my pieces through the jointer two or three times already (i.e. face jointed then edge jointed). Afterwards I ran them through my thickness planer and ended up with ripping the last edge at my table saw. When I laid out the boards for a dry fit (i.e. I'm laminating them to make a table top) I noticed that a few of the boards had what appears to be a "not" flat surface. There were noticable gaps between a couple of the boards when I did a dry fit. I'm thinking of edge jointing a few of them a couple more times to flatten out the edges. I have a little wiggle room as it relates to width of the boards. Am I on the right track? Thanks for your consideration and ??reply. I am somewhat of a newbie, but perhaps not a total "novice". I wish I could include a picture of what I'm building but I don't think that's possible.
bad boy, no knife or guard on table saw!
Why not put it back in the jointer after the thickness planer for the 4th edge?
Because, in an actual project, that last rip cut will take it down to size. It is the same reason you don't waste time squaring the ends until you actually use it.
Because it won’t be parallel to the other edge
Both good points
@@lukesailing5379 Wouldn't it be though? The other edge is going to be square with either face. So, if you put either of those faces against the jointer fence, wouldn't that make that 4th edge square with the face, which in turn would mean it's parallel to the other edge?
Mike A I was referring to the fourth edge as the other face, your definitely right I just misinterpreted the question
Could you just do all four sides on that jointer?
It wouldn’t be truly square or flat if you did. Took me a while to understand because I thought the same thing.
Shouldn't jointing both edges with one flat side against the fence make them square and parallel? I'm asking because I don't have a table saw yet...
@@urgon6321 1st you flatten the face. 2nd using that flat face against the fence you can streighten the edge. technically you could flatten the other side with the flat edge against the fence, but it would be very hard to hold an edge that thin against the fence. by doing the face and edge on the jointer you can then set the planer up to the exact width and thickness that you want. hope this helps.
@@josephandrews5744, I forgot that my plunge saw has parallel guide, so ripping the edge will not be a problem...
@@Wood I assume a bandsaw with a fence could replace the table saw, right?
If it's possible I would put pressure on the cup area to straighten it out first before do any work on it.
But you end up with super thin board
When you buy rough lumber, it’s cheaper but you end up wasting some during the milling process
That's true of all rough lumber.
There's a reason a 2x4 isn't actually 2 inches by 4 inches. The rough dimension 2x4 is never that thick when actually squared on all sides. You know the way you want any furniture to be
Or else you have gaps in the furniture, a bumpy surface, etc
That board still looked cupped at the end
I think its his camera lens. I think it has a slight wide angle.
now you know why people think the earth is round
Yeah I think it was the camera
None of the other straight edges look curved.
@@cammywammy420 Not so sure it's the camera lens as much as the curved wood grain playing tricks on your brain.
Ugh I hate the American unit of measurement, which heavily involves fractions... 5/8... 7/8. For God's sakes just use decimals. They were invented a thousand years ago.
It's almost as if saying five eights is quicker than saying point six hundred twenty-five
Fractions exist solely for efficiency. We could say it in decimal form but when we use a 16th scale on measuring tools it's far less simple than saying 1.1cm for example. Also if you struggle with fractions idk what to tell you
Absolutely excellent video!
Thank you