Hey I went through alot worse rust on both my 1960 Craftsman jointer plus my 1970 Powermatic 66 Cabinet 10in Table Saw. Nice job using your flat bar yes that you would use for the frets on your guitar. But you did what I started out doing. Here is going to be a perfect thing to get no matter what. Go to a Granite and Marble store and see if they have a minimum of 1½ but prefer 3in thick. 12 to 15in wide and at least 15 to 24in length. Make sure that the one side is finished. Should be approximately 0.003 is their tolerance for level. Take some construction spray adhesive to the back of your sand paper not the Granite. Let it get tacky. Two sheets is enough. Put just a little bit of oil down on the surface you want to level. Put the Granite sandpaper down and push and pull. DON'T PUT ANY WEIGHT ON THE GRANITE. You will loop side your surface. But you will notice that it will work beautifully and not as much as you did with the fret lever. And you know have a perfectly level surface for sharpening chisels hand planer knives with sandpaper on the granite. The Granite cost me $40.00 for the two pieces of Granite and Marble I got. Anyway just thought you might want to know and you will never regret it because you will use the Granite sandpaper tricks with a lot of thinks. Have fun Walter Keeth
The Boeshield and CLR are a similar formulation. Next project you can use regular household vinegar to clean up the rusty hardware. On the jointer beds I use the liquid Bar Keepers Friend to clean and polish.
I just cleaned my Dad's jointer/planer. Stored in a shed, it just had surface rust and dust. I used a natural citrus spray and a 3-M Scotch-brite. I have no clue where the rust came from. Once it was gone, the entire surface still had the wax coating my dad put on his tools.... One issue I would recommend you address with tools like this, round over the edges. I have about 15 cuts, several were bad enough that I used super glue to close them. The cuts are not from the knives, they are from the edges of the infeed ant outfeed table. This jointer/planer is more than 20 years old.
just picked up the same one a few days ago off market place $50 with base ,same problems rust on fence but no low spots on tables, blades dull, motor works great belts good , wasn't it fun adj all 3 blades ,took me like 3 hours to get them just perfect, but now it cuts great
I noticed that you did not take off the drive belt or check the set screws on the pulleys. I picked up one of these recently and the pulley set screws were oriented outward (toward the viewer when looking at the backside of the machine). One thing that appeared to be happening is that the pulleys were working their way off of the drive shafts. I tried turning them around (oriented as you have them) but the fitment was incredibly tight. What are your thoughts? Edit: I checked the owners manual and the pulleys should have the set screw facing away from the motor mount. So, the reverse of what we see in the video.
I’ve got a small 4 3/8’s craftsman jointer from the 40s and really love it. Setting the knives is a total pain though! This video was easily one of the best restoration videos I’ve seen in years, thanks for that! I’ve got a 1920s antique planer I need to get around to restoring 😅
Well done Eric - This gives me encouragement to go back at my Craftsman 6 - 1/8” jointer to make it co-planner, something I’ve struggled with over time.
I acquired an old Craftsman Jointer. The motor is an antique. The stand is hideous. I have a steel aquarium stand. Should fit perfectly. With enhancement. Any suggestions for motor replacement would be helpful.
thank you Eric . just a heads up if you do not mind . paul sellers shows how he makes an oiler can that would be great for that . i make one and use it on all metal in the shop i just found the cheap oil to use . i found oven cleaner works great on pitch removal . on rusted bolts if you can manage it a sharp rap with a hammer helps to break them free. i was a machinist on a sub-tender back in the early 70's lots of seized up parts . rust will eat metal not just the surface so be careful on old parts . we also used lapping plates and compound . take care and thank you for all your tips
Thanks, Walter! When it comes to this sort of thing (working with metal) I always feel like I'm kind of making it up as I go, so I appreciate the feedback from someone who has experience as a machinist. I'll check that out!
A less toxic pitch remover is "L.A.'s Awesome." I use it on my saw blades. It also gets bugs off of the front of your car, gets old fuel off of model airplane engines, cleans BBQ grills- the list of things it will clean is endless and it's cheap. Dollar General, Walmart, Amazon and lots of places carry it.
I wish you would have shown how you removed the wedges and blades. Was it difficult given the condition you received it? what was the trick to removing the wedges?
sure you figured it out: You loosen the screws that hold the assembly in, and then loosen the screws that do the blade height. Use a lubricant and keep loosening the blade height screws (they'll continue to push the blades up). Eventually the blades will be loose and then you can take the blades and the wedges out.
I have this exact model and need to know more about the fence. When i took the fence off i found that the shim for the knob bolt on the gauge was not as big as its hole on the frame... I came to 2 conclusions. It was engineered that way to make the fence height variable or dad lost the 2ndary shim why back when... Any advice? it's this exact model 113 20680 edit = adjust model # 9 > 0
Thanks, Andrea. I broke my camera a little bit ago and had to buy a new one, and not being especially savvy with cameras, I havn't yet figured out how to set it up so that the lighting is consistent like it was with the last camera. At some point when I have some free time I'll figure that out. I have some friends who really know cameras. But in the meantime, I don't want to stop the show so I'll just keep on creating videos and hopefully the subpar lighting isn't too much of a turn off? Thanks for the feedback!
@@EricSchaeferGuitars Automation in cameras is the bane of a photographer. Give me one where I control the focus and exposure! Nice restoration. As you said, setting up the infeed table is "interesting." VERY nice restoration. Your video was a big help to me restoring mine.
No judgement on your work restoring this, but the rust removal looks like a great job for a handheld buffer and an old pad that's on its last legs, if you keep such a thing. Great work on the restoration altogether.
Lloyd Pittonet I’ve done that before and while it is faster, it’s also verrrry easy to make the low spots worse. It takes a careful hand and a lot of attention!
I used a random orbital on mine starting with 150 grit and WD40. Use basically no pressure on the sander and it'll just get rid of the rust. No way 150 grit lubed with WD40 is actually getting rid of steal and causing low spots. I then went over it with 320 grit (also with WD40) to get a REALLY smooth surface.
Just because this is what I do for a living just take the rusted part off there just bolts 50¢ home depot. If you leave it it will keep fitting until it becomes a problem. Just my advice sure you won't take it
![Perfect Paint for a VINTAGE 12" Jointer - Restoration How-To [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XQpFscL0TaM/mqdefault.jpg)
![What's in the box?! 1890s Safe [Restoration]](/img/n.gif)
Hey I went through alot worse rust on both my 1960 Craftsman jointer plus my 1970 Powermatic 66 Cabinet 10in Table Saw. Nice job using your flat bar yes that you would use for the frets on your guitar. But you did what I started out doing. Here is going to be a perfect thing to get no matter what.
Go to a Granite and Marble store and see if they have a minimum of 1½ but prefer 3in thick. 12 to 15in wide and at least 15 to 24in length. Make sure that the one side is finished. Should be approximately 0.003 is their tolerance for level. Take some construction spray adhesive to the back of your sand paper not the Granite. Let it get tacky. Two sheets is enough. Put just a little bit of oil down on the surface you want to level. Put the Granite sandpaper down and push and pull. DON'T PUT ANY WEIGHT ON THE GRANITE. You will loop side your surface. But you will notice that it will work beautifully and not as much as you did with the fret lever. And you know have a perfectly level surface for sharpening chisels hand planer knives with sandpaper on the granite.
The Granite cost me $40.00 for the two pieces of Granite and Marble I got.
Anyway just thought you might want to know and you will never regret it because you will use the Granite sandpaper tricks with a lot of thinks.
Have fun Walter Keeth
Blaster for rust removal on screws, my hand-planer blades, and tools. I have cans of it all over my shop.
The Boeshield and CLR are a similar formulation. Next project you can use regular household vinegar to clean up the rusty hardware. On the jointer beds I use the liquid Bar Keepers Friend to clean and polish.
I just cleaned my Dad's jointer/planer. Stored in a shed, it just had surface rust and dust. I used a natural citrus spray and a 3-M Scotch-brite. I have no clue where the rust came from. Once it was gone, the entire surface still had the wax coating my dad put on his tools.... One issue I would recommend you address with tools like this, round over the edges. I have about 15 cuts, several were bad enough that I used super glue to close them. The cuts are not from the knives, they are from the edges of the infeed ant outfeed table. This jointer/planer is more than 20 years old.
just picked up the same one a few days ago off market place $50 with base ,same problems rust on fence but no low spots on tables, blades dull, motor works great belts good , wasn't it fun adj all 3 blades ,took me like 3 hours to get them just perfect, but now it cuts great
I noticed that you did not take off the drive belt or check the set screws on the pulleys. I picked up one of these recently and the pulley set screws were oriented outward (toward the viewer when looking at the backside of the machine). One thing that appeared to be happening is that the pulleys were working their way off of the drive shafts. I tried turning them around (oriented as you have them) but the fitment was incredibly tight. What are your thoughts?
Edit: I checked the owners manual and the pulleys should have the set screw facing away from the motor mount. So, the reverse of what we see in the video.
I’ve got a small 4 3/8’s craftsman jointer from the 40s and really love it. Setting the knives is a total pain though! This video was easily one of the best restoration videos I’ve seen in years, thanks for that! I’ve got a 1920s antique planer I need to get around to restoring 😅
Well done Eric - This gives me encouragement to go back at my Craftsman 6 - 1/8” jointer to make it co-planner, something I’ve struggled with over time.
I acquired an old Craftsman Jointer. The motor is an antique. The stand is hideous. I have a steel aquarium stand. Should fit perfectly. With enhancement. Any suggestions for motor replacement would be helpful.
What a great video!
thank you Eric . just a heads up if you do not mind . paul sellers shows how he makes an oiler can that would be great for that . i make one and use it on all metal in the shop i just found the cheap oil to use . i found oven cleaner works great on pitch removal . on rusted bolts if you can manage it a sharp rap with a hammer helps to break them free. i was a machinist on a sub-tender back in the early 70's lots of seized up parts . rust will eat metal not just the surface so be careful on old parts . we also used lapping plates and compound . take care and thank you for all your tips
Thanks, Walter! When it comes to this sort of thing (working with metal) I always feel like I'm kind of making it up as I go, so I appreciate the feedback from someone who has experience as a machinist. I'll check that out!
A less toxic pitch remover is "L.A.'s Awesome." I use it on my saw blades. It also gets bugs off of the front of your car, gets old fuel off of model airplane engines, cleans BBQ grills- the list of things it will clean is endless and it's cheap. Dollar General, Walmart, Amazon and lots of places carry it.
Is there a part 2?
Hi sir, you are a perfectionist - very good job -(excellent) - I pick up a few tips. Many thanks.
I need motor info for mine. It came without a motor and I need to buy one but I need to know amperage, HP, Ration ect.
I wish you would have shown how you removed the wedges and blades. Was it difficult given the condition you received it? what was the trick to removing the wedges?
sure you figured it out: You loosen the screws that hold the assembly in, and then loosen the screws that do the blade height. Use a lubricant and keep loosening the blade height screws (they'll continue to push the blades up). Eventually the blades will be loose and then you can take the blades and the wedges out.
Good video, lots of work. Evaporust is an excellent product and is safe to use..
Did you ever find blades?
Hi, are you still answering questions about this video? Thanks
Hey, Eric! I just got my hands on this same jointer! Could you tell me where you got the new blades?
probably too late... but Amazon has them.
What tool did you use with the 80grit sandpaper
I have this exact model and need to know more about the fence. When i took the fence off i found that the shim for the knob bolt on the gauge was not as big as its hole on the frame... I came to 2 conclusions. It was engineered that way to make the fence height variable or dad lost the 2ndary shim why back when... Any advice? it's this exact model 113 20680
edit = adjust model # 9 > 0
#eric shaffer. im really glad you restored that!!! quick recommendation you might want to get more lighting in your videos.
Thanks, Andrea. I broke my camera a little bit ago and had to buy a new one, and not being especially savvy with cameras, I havn't yet figured out how to set it up so that the lighting is consistent like it was with the last camera. At some point when I have some free time I'll figure that out. I have some friends who really know cameras. But in the meantime, I don't want to stop the show so I'll just keep on creating videos and hopefully the subpar lighting isn't too much of a turn off?
Thanks for the feedback!
@@EricSchaeferGuitars Automation in cameras is the bane of a photographer. Give me one where I control the focus and exposure! Nice restoration. As you said, setting up the infeed table is "interesting." VERY nice restoration. Your video was a big help to me restoring mine.
No judgement on your work restoring this, but the rust removal looks like a great job for a handheld buffer and an old pad that's on its last legs, if you keep such a thing. Great work on the restoration altogether.
Lloyd Pittonet I’ve done that before and while it is faster, it’s also verrrry easy to make the low spots worse. It takes a careful hand and a lot of attention!
I used a random orbital on mine starting with 150 grit and WD40. Use basically no pressure on the sander and it'll just get rid of the rust. No way 150 grit lubed with WD40 is actually getting rid of steal and causing low spots. I then went over it with 320 grit (also with WD40) to get a REALLY smooth surface.
Just because this is what I do for a living just take the rusted part off there just bolts 50¢ home depot. If you leave it it will keep fitting until it becomes a problem. Just my advice sure you won't take it