HI all. I have the exact model but it was all out of adjustment, particularly on the INFEED table that made the jointing process impossible. After some hunting and pecking, here is what I found to remedy the alignment problem, with the tables. It is quite a simple procedure. First, turn the unit over so you can see the underside. Keep the table adjustment knob on your right and back it off so the table is lowered somewhat. Next, remove the plastic dust port cover and the half moon shaped dust port adjustment plastic fitting. Then remove the metal plate (4 screws) that covers the cutting blade assembly. This helps expose two hex bolts and two small "set screws" (barrel screws?) that are on the outside of the two bolts. You will need to remove the tront cover to access the left two bolts/screws but it only requires removing one small screw on the top/middle of the panel and two small machine screws underneath on both corners of the jointer. NO need to disconnect and wiring! Now, look to the right and you will see two more identical hex bolt heads and two more small "set screws". These bolts/screws are your adjustments that will put the infeed bed in perfect plane with the outfeed table. Often these small screws are missing but essential to properly adjust the infeed table. Now, loosen all four hex bolts but do not take them out. Back them off about 1/2 inch or so. Next loosen the four set screws (you will need a hex Allen Key) almost to the point of falling out, but be careful not to drop them. (I bought four new ones from ACE Hardware - 1/4-20 size that are a bit longer than the original ones and have a flat head screw driver head for adjustment). Also, make certain you lower the infeed table a bit with the adjustment knob before you start making any adjustments with the bolts and set screws. At this point, the infeed table will be quite loose and flopping around....that is GOOD. You should be able to push it up from the underside that will move it to temporarily ABOVE the outfeed table. You will bring it down and set it in place later. OK, here we go: Flip the jointer on its long side, resting the fence side on your work table. This will give you access to see both the top of the tables and the underside where the bolts/screws are. Take a good straight-edge and place it on the OUTFEED table to check for plane. The infeed table will be quite high (or at least flopping around) at this point. Now, starting with the left most hex bolts, start tightening the one near the fence. It will begin to bring that side/edge of the table down to the height of the outfeed table which is NOT adjustable. You can also tighten the other hex bolt, little by little, to keep up with the first bolt you started with, alternating from one to the other. Now, as you tighten the two hex bolts slowly, you will see that the long edge of the infeed table will be brought closer to the level of the long edge of the outfeed table. When you get it to be at the same level as the outfeed table, stop tightening the nex bolts, but now you tighten the two set screws to LOCK it in place. Crank them down pretty well but do not go crazy with torque. You might notice that by tightening the small set screws, it might raise the table edge a tiny bit. Simply back off the set screw a bit, re-tighten the bolt and then tighten the set screw. Keep checking with your straight edge to make certain the edges are lined up. You will do this process to the right side bolts next. OK, on to the right side bolts which will level the right side of the infeed table to be on the same plane as the outfeed table., Again, starting at the fence side bolt, slowly tighten it to lower the right side of the table, alternating between each of the two bolts to keep things even. When your straight edge shows no gaps between the two tables, most notable at the cutting head area, then tighten the two set screws as above. You can check to make certain the infeed table is now in perfect plane with the outfeed table by sliding the corner of your straight edge from one side of the table to the other (from the fence to the outside edge. If there is any pitch from one side to the other, readjust the offending bolt and hex screw. TAKE YOUR TIME. When you are satisfied with the leveling, slightly re-tighten the two hex bolts just a bit to snug them up and put pressure on the set screws (keeps them from backing out). Go grab a cool beer or other adult beverage....you are done. Total time to do all this was about 15-20 minutes. It takes more time to describe the process than to do it. Now you can turn the knob to raise the table to just BELOW the outfeed table (I used a credit card thickness) to the desired depth) and the jointer will be in near perfect plane and level. BY y unsign a good digital angle finder on the metal fence, you can get PERFECT right angles or any other desired angle for your work. Hope this helps. Dr. Z
HI there again. The reason you are getting that "wedge" effect on the flat side of your stock is because the blades are tipped higher on one side than the other AND your infeed table is also tipped from the fence side to the other side of the jointer. If you follow the steps I laid out below and then either get a Jointer Pal or other jog to level the blades themselves, you will have a really FLAT outcome as you plane the flat sides of your stock. Hope this helps. Dr. Z
Thanks for the video and some of the responses herein. I have a Crafstman planer much older than that one, a gift from my wife, but never really used it. I had to chuckle a bit when you mentioned using a tool to keep your hands away from the blades. The damn thing is scary. I plan to put the machine to work on some small projects I have planned, so thanks again for the video.
Harder than Locust, your poor chain saw. I cleared an acre of mostly Locust, and I was never without my file. Merry Christmas to you and your family Kevin. Thanks for sharing the video.
3:50 Osage Orange is the tree you're talking about - burns hot, dulls your chain saw quick and people call it Hedge and use it for fence posts. I know I'm 5 years late :(
A couple of bar magnets can help set the blade square be for tightening the screws. Check out some vids, there are plenty out there. (Search: how to set jointer blades)
Couple of comments. First, dance with the jointer; don't push down so hard or try to force the wood flat onto the bed. Second, use a push stick or similar. You'll get a smoother ride across the bed and might just save a finger or two.
Handy tool for sure, but, like the others said use a stick... or that tool will find it's way curbside PDQ. Hope you had a good Christmas. I bet that grandkid of yours had a big time.
You know Chad I have 3 grandkids and sometimes it's not that fun when they are spoiled they open a gift and lay it down but all and all I had a good Christmas.
I hear ya. My 12 year old got into Amazon somehow, saw what we ordered and told the other kids what they were getting. Ticked us off and spoiled lots of surprises.
measure the blades and make sure they are the same distance on each end from the bed, then use a square or protractor to set the fence at a 90 or your desired angle from there to make sure you get square cuts.
We’re did you order your blades from? I was given a old Craftsman jointer just like what you have, but Sears discontinued the blades for it. Is there another company I can try? Good video demo. Thanks.
Take one of your knife out and check measures and compare to measures on Amazon site for POWERTEC 148012 6-Inch HSS Jointer Knives for Craftsman 21788, Set of 2
The reason your faces aren't parallel the jointer has no reference to make the second face parallel to the other. You would use a planer for the other face
Kevin. Please use a push stick and not your fingers when using this machine. It will take finger tips off without hesitation. All it takes is for that wood to tilt or you too loose your grip and it's over.
I just bought the same joiner but I have an issue.there is no model number.i need to order some new knifes for it but don’t know the model number.can you tell me what your model number is cause mine looks exactly the same but all info and stickers are not on my unit anymore.thank you
Grizzly H3874 4-Inch by 1-Inch by 1/8-Inch HSS Jointer Knives, Set of 2 www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD5XD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KH2FDbRB2KR97 I was in the same boat. These are what you need.
Kevin, you need to use the fence as your reference, everything is supposed to be 90 degrees from that. For what you are use it for I would think a good sharp hand plane would be faster and more accurate. Plenty of videos on the use of a jointer, might want to check one out. Use your push blocks!!
That "jointer" is marketed under a few different brand names. I have the same one labeled "Craftex" from BusyBee Tools in Canada. I've used it for almost ten years now. Check the alignment between the infeed and outfeed tables with a straight edge. I've had to use some shims to align them properly so that the cuts are even. Other than that, sharp blades and it will serve you well. Cheers.
HI all. I have the exact model but it was all out of adjustment, particularly on the INFEED table that made the jointing process impossible. After some hunting and pecking, here is what I found to remedy the alignment problem, with the tables. It is quite a simple procedure.
First, turn the unit over so you can see the underside. Keep the table adjustment knob on your right and back it off so the table is lowered somewhat. Next, remove the plastic dust port cover and the half moon shaped dust port adjustment plastic fitting. Then remove the metal plate (4 screws) that covers the cutting blade assembly. This helps expose two hex bolts and two small "set screws" (barrel screws?) that are on the outside of the two bolts. You will need to remove the tront cover to access the left two bolts/screws but it only requires removing one small screw on the top/middle of the panel and two small machine screws underneath on both corners of the jointer. NO need to disconnect and wiring!
Now, look to the right and you will see two more identical hex bolt heads and two more small "set screws". These bolts/screws are your adjustments that will put the infeed bed in perfect plane with the outfeed table. Often these small screws are missing but essential to properly adjust the infeed table. Now, loosen all four hex bolts but do not take them out. Back them off about 1/2 inch or so. Next loosen the four set screws (you will need a hex Allen Key) almost to the point of falling out, but be careful not to drop them. (I bought four new ones from ACE Hardware - 1/4-20 size that are a bit longer than the original ones and have a flat head screw driver head for adjustment). Also, make certain you lower the infeed table a bit with the adjustment knob before you start making any adjustments with the bolts and set screws. At this point, the infeed table will be quite loose and flopping around....that is GOOD.
You should be able to push it up from the underside that will move it to temporarily ABOVE the outfeed table. You will bring it down and set it in place later.
OK, here we go: Flip the jointer on its long side, resting the fence side on your work table. This will give you access to see both the top of the tables and the underside where the bolts/screws are. Take a good straight-edge and place it on the OUTFEED table to check for plane. The infeed table will be quite high (or at least flopping around) at this point. Now, starting with the left most hex bolts, start tightening the one near the fence. It will begin to bring that side/edge of the table down to the height of the outfeed table which is NOT adjustable. You can also tighten the other hex bolt, little by little, to keep up with the first bolt you started with, alternating from one to the other. Now, as you tighten the two hex bolts slowly, you will see that the long edge of the infeed table will be brought closer to the level of the long edge of the outfeed table. When you get it to be at the same level as the outfeed table, stop tightening the nex bolts, but now you tighten the two set screws to LOCK it in place. Crank them down pretty well but do not go crazy with torque.
You might notice that by tightening the small set screws, it might raise the table edge a tiny bit. Simply back off the set screw a bit, re-tighten the bolt and then tighten the set screw. Keep checking with your straight edge to make certain the edges are lined up. You will do this process to the right side bolts next.
OK, on to the right side bolts which will level the right side of the infeed table to be on the same plane as the outfeed table., Again, starting at the fence side bolt, slowly tighten it to lower the right side of the table, alternating between each of the two bolts to keep things even. When your straight edge shows no gaps between the two tables, most notable at the cutting head area, then tighten the two set screws as above. You can check to make certain the infeed table is now in perfect plane with the outfeed table by sliding the corner of your straight edge from one side of the table to the other (from the fence to the outside edge. If there is any pitch from one side to the other, readjust the offending bolt and hex screw. TAKE YOUR TIME. When you are satisfied with the leveling, slightly re-tighten the two hex bolts just a bit to snug them up and put pressure on the set screws (keeps them from backing out).
Go grab a cool beer or other adult beverage....you are done. Total time to do all this was about 15-20 minutes. It takes more time to describe the process than to do it. Now you can turn the knob to raise the table to just BELOW the outfeed table (I used a credit card thickness) to the desired depth) and the jointer will be in near perfect plane and level.
BY y unsign a good digital angle finder on the metal fence, you can get PERFECT right angles or any other desired angle for your work.
Hope this helps. Dr. Z
Some great information thank you.
Please make a video for us visual learners.
HI there again. The reason you are getting that "wedge" effect on the flat side of your stock is because the blades are tipped higher on one side than the other AND your infeed table is also tipped from the fence side to the other side of the jointer. If you follow the steps I laid out below and then either get a Jointer Pal or other jog to level the blades themselves, you will have a really FLAT outcome as you plane the flat sides of your stock. Hope this helps. Dr. Z
Thank you for the info that helps for sure.
Thanks for the video and some of the responses herein. I have a Crafstman planer much older than that one, a gift from my wife, but never really used it. I had to chuckle a bit when you mentioned using a tool to keep your hands away from the blades. The damn thing is scary. I plan to put the machine to work on some small projects I have planned, so thanks again for the video.
Thanks for watching Nick, good luck with your projects also.
Harder than Locust, your poor chain saw. I cleared an acre of mostly Locust, and I was never without my file. Merry Christmas to you and your family Kevin. Thanks for sharing the video.
It is very hard wood.
Good video. Thanks for posting. Definitely helped me decide if I want to purchase this.
Thank you for watching glad to help
3:50 Osage Orange is the tree you're talking about - burns hot, dulls your chain saw quick and people call it Hedge and use it for fence posts. I know I'm 5 years late :(
That's ok I'm still here my friend thanks for the information.
you are correct also thorns that will hurt you
Man brother that sure looks dangerous!
Thanks for the comment and watching.
Free tools! cant beat that deal.
Did you ever figure out why it wasn't cutting square? If so, what did you do to fix it?
Kevin, that yellow looks like Bois D Arc trees we have in Texas. We call their fruit horse apples.
Cool thanks Gary.
A couple of bar magnets can help set the blade square be for tightening the screws. Check out some vids, there are plenty out there. (Search: how to set jointer blades)
Thank you for the help Thomas.
Couple of comments. First, dance with the jointer; don't push down so hard or try to force the wood flat onto the bed. Second, use a push stick or similar. You'll get a smoother ride across the bed and might just save a finger or two.
Thanks Ross that's some good advice.
Handy tool for sure, but, like the others said use a stick... or that tool will find it's way curbside PDQ. Hope you had a good Christmas. I bet that grandkid of yours had a big time.
You know Chad I have 3 grandkids and sometimes it's not that fun when they are spoiled they open a gift and lay it down but all and all I had a good Christmas.
I hear ya. My 12 year old got into Amazon somehow, saw what we ordered and told the other kids what they were getting. Ticked us off and spoiled lots of surprises.
measure the blades and make sure they are the same distance on each end from the bed, then use a square or protractor to set the fence at a 90 or your desired angle from there to make sure you get square cuts.
Thank you Todd for the info that will help.
We’re did you order your blades from? I was given a old Craftsman jointer just like what you have, but Sears discontinued the blades for it. Is there another company I can try? Good video demo. Thanks.
Take one of your knife out and check measures and compare to measures on Amazon site for POWERTEC 148012 6-Inch HSS Jointer Knives for Craftsman 21788, Set of 2
Where do you get new blades for the 4 1/8” jointer been looking but only found one on eBay
Look up the grizzled planer blades.
Thanks for the video I have one of these coming Friday I’m going to use for pallet work, did you ever figure out the trick to getting it even?
Unfortunately no.
I got a new one sorry.
Yep in the South we call them horse apples.
Do horse eat them?
Kevin Robinson don’t know if all of them do. But my old neighbors horses did.
The reason your faces aren't parallel the jointer has no reference to make the second face parallel to the other. You would use a planer for the other face
Well that was scary to watch.
Thanks
Kevin. Please use a push stick and not your fingers when using this machine. It will take finger tips off without hesitation. All it takes is for that wood to tilt or you too loose your grip and it's over.
the wood is called osage orange /bois darc . it will turn a purpleish black over many years time and is a perfered wood to make bows out off
Where do you buy knives for this planer
I think they are the same as Grizzly blades if you are looking for blades.
I see that Pennsylvania is snowed in. I hope y’all are ok buddy.
I work for the government I do snow removal all ok Billy.
Kevin Robinson good to hear.
I just bought the same joiner but I have an issue.there is no model number.i need to order some new knifes for it but don’t know the model number.can you tell me what your model number is cause mine looks exactly the same but all info and stickers are not on my unit anymore.thank you
Grizzly H3874 4-Inch by 1-Inch by 1/8-Inch HSS Jointer Knives, Set of 2 www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD5XD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KH2FDbRB2KR97
I was in the same boat. These are what you need.
Isn't this a jointer and not a planar?
I think your right M V I just use it as a planer.
Thanks Kevin
the yellow wood comes from an osage oarnge tree aka hedge apple
In the next video we'll see Kevin missing half a thumb.
looks like osage orange to me
Your right thank you for the comment.
Kevin, you need to use the fence as your reference, everything is supposed to be 90 degrees from that. For what you are use it for I would think a good sharp hand plane would be faster and more accurate. Plenty of videos on the use of a jointer, might want to check one out. Use your push blocks!!
Thanks for the info Ron.
That "jointer" is marketed under a few different brand names. I have the same one labeled "Craftex" from BusyBee Tools in Canada. I've used it for almost ten years now. Check the alignment between the infeed and outfeed tables with a straight edge. I've had to use some shims to align them properly so that the cuts are even. Other than that, sharp blades and it will serve you well. Cheers.
Where do you live that you can go into the woods and cut down a maple tree?
You dont know how it works?? run people RUN
Thank you for the comment Bob.
Osage Orange is the tree.
Monkey ball tree is what some people call them.
And you'll have plenty of shavings if you raise rabbits now lol
Lol that would work
Hedgeapple
Thanks for the comment.
Using a jointer like that you could lose not just fingers but your hand and maybe your life !!!!!!!
Thanks for the comment Dave
4:38 dont know how to use it, but watch me instinctively reach for the lowering knob to bite off a tiny bit more ;P
Thanks Bob.
No tiene comparación con la nueva canteadora craftsman de 6 pulgadas el regulador no sirve
Thanks for watching