Tool links and things I talk about in this video: Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig, Shirts and K-M Stop Block here: goo.gl/XzEmMa BitsBits router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off James Wright Winding Sticks Video: ua-cam.com/video/wfVp9D8mg_c/v-deo.html
Man, you just set me free. I’ve started selling some pieces I’ve made as of recently and I have really felt the pressure to spend a ton of money on a jointer just bc every video you see that’s of any quality wood working at all, has a jointer involved. Anyway, long story short, thank you so much. I liked and subscribed. Thank you again
Buy a cheap trimmer or router, set a table, make a hole on it, install the said trimmer upside down from under the table, make a nice straight fence, and boom you got a jointer.
I was just trying to figure out ways to do this yesterday, and this morning your video popped up on my feed. Absolutely perfect. Now I just need to find one thing in my shop that actually has a straight edge to use as a guide, and I'm golden. Thanks for this extremely helpful video!
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Another great tip is the track saw, which you mentioned, except you don't cut your boards 1 at a time. You clamp the two boards you are going to join together first and run the track saw blade over both joining edges at the saame time. What the blade cuts off the edge of one blade, it cuts the exact same thing of the edge of the other board so when you push them back together to get rid of the now saw blade width gap between them, they are perfectly joined because they were both cut with the exact same blade at the exact same time. Only thing to worry about is how? To clamp both boards and the track saw guide together to get the cut done without cutting whatever you are clamping them together. There are a bunch of ways to do this and plenty of videos on UA-cam, but it is a great technique and works really well. Especially for joining really long boards together which are more problematic with more traditional joining methods. I use this method to join 8 foot panels together for entry doors, etc.
These are great tips. I did break down and purchase a jointer because I found face jointing so painful. The planer sled worked fine, I just found it so time consuming and monotonous walking from one side of the planer to the other over and over and over. For what it's worth, Grizzly's G0814 (or G0813 if you want the economy stand) 6" jointer runs on 120V and has worked great in my shop thus far. I'm just a hobbyist, though. These tips are still useful even if you have a jointer since, as you mention, sometimes you can't run a piece through your particular jointer. MDF makes a great planer sled, by the way. It's going to be dead flat.
Thanks for these tips. They are very helpful. I'm curious about the small elevated workspace you're using. I'd love to see how that was made of learn more about it. I'm always looking for convenient ways to raise my work.
Great video for those of us with jointer envy! I’ve also used a router and a straight bit to joint two boards intended to be joined together. Have the router bit just kiss each side enough to catch the wider parts and run the router along a straight edge. Great results with that technique too!
This was a huge help, thanks! I have just a small space for workshop and would love a jointer/planer, but simply don't have the space, whereas a planer/thicknesser would fit. This helped me realise I can work around the lack of a dedicated jointer.
Subscribed cuz: you explained it in a way that I could understand, you created that magnetic fence that I've yet to see in any other woodworking tip video, and you didn't ask for me to subscribe. Thanks for all those things.
I too like the non begging. As for the 90* plane fence, they go back centuries on the old wooden planes with screws and with the metal planes I've seen both magnets and screws (plane body was drilled and tapped) used. The rare earth magnets are really cool. So versatile. The lipped edge on JKM s version is really clever.. Another project in the future
I have always jointed with the router technique you've shown. Figured it out on my own, and have been told it was wrong, but it always worked for me. Glad to now know I'm not alone. Another tip is, if you're working with a super thick board, use the router method to get the line, then follow up with a track saw to finish the cut perfectly. Using a combination of these methods, and a planer, I really see no need, for me, to waste the money and space on a jointer.
From experience, a jointer is the most important and Essential piece of machinery of a wood workshop. Full time carpentry workshop needs one for sure. Save time and thus money.
Jonathan, where have you been all my wood working life?!?! The last thing I need is to subscribe to ANOTHER wood working channel but you reeled me in. This is my first video but i love your style, delivery, & tips.
I use the jointer/router system when gluing up panels, but I "joint" two boards the same time. so they fit a 100% together. Just position them sligtley nearer than the diameter of the Bit, then with one pass joint both. Thanks for the Vid. New subscriber ;-)
What I want to say is your straight cut jig is the most sensible I've ever seen. It solves one major problem with the ones that use those top down clamps, and that they're only designed for one board size. Yours can handle a variety of sizes. Very nice work. Subscribed.
Fantastic. Not owning anything other than a circular saw and a compound miter saw, I guess my next purchase is a router for method #1. Thanks so much!!
Great tips. I’m not sure I’ll ever have the space to justify a decent jointer. My trick for edge jointing long (e.g. 8 - 12’) stock is to use the track saw to establish the reference edge. Much easier to clean (& eventually replace) a good track saw blade than a good router bit (3x more $$).
I built my first table using some of these methods. While they worked, my results were not 100% and now that I have a jointer, I can say without a doubt it's absolutely worth its weight in gold when it comes to making straight, flat, square pieces of lumber.
For the planner sled I made mine from scrap Corian then I put a few blobs of 5min drywall mud, layer of cellophane then imbed my board. 5 minutes later mud is hard and ready for the planner.
With my router I have a 2" slot cutter bit. I shim my out going table fence by 1/16". Now I have a "jointer" that will handle a 2" face. Cheaper bit that works great for me ...
Joe Gravelle. Perhaps looking at the European version of a jointer would help, Joe? They have guards that don’t move out of the way, so it encourages you to keep your hands safe. Just a thought.
Interesting you said that about metal studs. I am an outside sales rep for a drywall supply company and thought to use studs because I knew how straight metal is compared to wood.
For edge of board straightening I've used sleds and the like before. If you have several boards to straighten on the edge, I have made a long straight edge that clamps to my table saw fence, and then run the concave side of the board to the straight-edge and true up the opposite side and it works great. This works fairly well if you have many boards to straighten quickly. The Straight Edge needs to be about double the length of the boards that you're using. Thanks for your video.
Hmm you just talked me out of a $1200 purchase man. In all honesty I have stuck with buying bbs panel glue ups. I was thinking of trying to make my own jointer but that requires time and resources that I just don't have. Thanks for the awesome info bud, keep'em coming.
Dude. Buy a cheap hand planer from pawn shop. Put new blades on it. Take two different tables - surfaces One a 1/16" higher than the other Mount the hand planer upside down to the lower table / surface (clamps or screws, festool trac clamps work amazing for this) Boom. Instant joiner less than $100 +4hrs labor......
So many great tips here. I've always struggled with getting boards flat and was seriously starting to try to figure out how to get a jointer because I've only ever seen people plane things flat or use a jointer
Not only would I love to have your tool collection but even more so your woodworking knowledge!! Your knowledge with woodwork is amazing! ThankQ for sharing your God given talents!! Great video! 👍
Great video... i flipped my way from a tiny delta jointer i bought for $50 then sold for $220 after i cleaned it up and bought a larger ridgid for $200... so i made $20 and got a jointer lol.
a plywood router sled, or if you happen to be a cnc enthusiasts like me, your cnc router, can 100% replace the planer as well for flattening the face of the board. 1-2 inch face mills (meant for surfacing the spoilboard on a cnc router), are GREAT for flattening big hunks of wood. The hand router is a good cheapish way to do that kind of stuff, even if it is a bit slow. A semi decent plunge router, the bits, and the sled are gonna cost less than a planer.
That was a nice video. I have to make a table. Must be about 8ft long and 2 inches tall. Of course my lumber is a bit bigger. I try with tablesaw and the disk burning the wood. Should I try with router and aluminum slade? Or?
A great video as always, Jonathan. I don’t currently have any machines available to me at home, but the magnetic hand plane guide, is a damn fine idea 👌 Thanks.
Chris Morris The mag jig for a hand plane fence is cute, but craftsmen have used a simpler method for ages. Just lay the board flat, pack it up a bit, and work with your plane laying on its side. No waiting.
@@leehaelters6182 Lee, I was thinking the same thing, but it occurred to me that Jonathan does not have a full size workbench. Just that wee bench we see in his videos with the Moxon vice on top. That is going to make it harder to plane a longish board edge against a bench dog, or even use a shooting board. When you see Rob Cosman plane an edge, he starts with it square from the jointer, and does that trick pushing down on the plane with his left thumb to keep the plane flat to the wood, or he'll do what you described, or use a shooting board.
really enjoy watching your videos. Always informative and easy to understand. How would you secure a notched end (like a birds mouth, used at the bottom ends of 2 sets of crossed/scissor legs) to a square piece of wood running horizontal from one set of legs to the other set of legs on the opposite side) Wish I could send a photo.
I love watching your videos. I’m still learning as most are as well and just knowing that you can dial in a piece of wood that’s twisting or cupping without dropping another $300 on a tool that collects dust when not in use; this ups the skill value. For me personally, I would much rather have skill value over a shop full of tools that when not in use are just a lost investment and this also goes towards how to problem solve which if you can’t do that then woodworking will never get to the point that you master a craft. I have a bunch of pallet wood slats that are varying widths and about 1/2” thick but they’re cupped badly and I’m looking for a time efficient way to make them safe to true up on the table saw without kickback and make them fit into one another for a feature wall without annoying gaps. I’m also going to say that me getting into DIY and woodworking has saved my mind from ultimately losing it with the political circus going off the rails. This forces me to unplug that garbage and do what gives me personal satisfaction and a piece of mind in learning for the sake of learning but also developing a skill that I didn’t have before, how to think about wood and make things that come to my mind and empower myself to not rely outside myself. So I’m respectful in that wood has a long-standing tradition of being more towards the spiritual in a way because it’s grounding and when you just stop and listen to that creative inner mind at play, the pieces all come together. Take Care and Be Safe!
I have seen these methods used by so many different channels that they really should work as stated. I'll have to try them out when I get back into my shop and see first hand. Thanks for reinforcing methods that can work in the absence of a jointer.
I guess it depends on how (& where) you source your material (rough) but the jointer is usually actually one of the most important machines in the shop. That’s where it all starts. Process it true from the beginning and it’s a lot less work (&trouble) every step after.
Shop worked wood professionally for 35 years. Never owned a jointer. Straightened with table saw and router using straight edges. Never could afford floor space for a tool (jointer, bandsaw, shaper) that didn’t earn its keep. That’s what mill works shops are for and I was mostly doing casework. Had a door plant make doors.
I had this very problem this week whilst making a 2' wide by 39" long window sill.. (old stone cottage reno) I was using a 9" standard PINE bull-nosed board in 3 sections to give me the required width (bullnose cut off 2) 🤨 The edges seemed fine, square & straight so I glued her up... the following morning my sill was now a pretzel ! 😂 Sooo... I cut back into 3 strips, used the packing-up/hotglue planer thicknesser trick and when I got 'em flat I used my tracksaw to "joint" the edges. Glue-up #2 went fine & I varnished it before the moisture content changed & it tryed to re-pretzel on me 🙄 I was lucky it was just a sill & finished thickness & width weren't so critical 😏 I've also tried using the router table with a shim on the outfeed side of the fence & cutter edge lined up with that shim... couldn't get it to work for some reason. On shorter boards a shooting-board type of setup and a long plane works too... Also... its worth mentioning to always flatten a face first... before an edge... 😏 Nice vid... Subbed & liked, my friend ! 😎👍☘🍺
If you are relying in finish to keep out moisture to keep your boards from warping, it will not be a long term solution. Moisture will eventually get in and the boards are going to do what they are going to do. If your boards warped thst bad the first time, then you simply need to use more stable wood then you used for that project.
Thank you very much for this extremely informative video. The way that you explain the method in this video made it very clear on what needed to be done.
Would be awesome to get your opinion Katz on the order in which you should set your shop up! Understandable it would be dependent on the work you do but maybe there is a general way to explain it. I am setting up my shop now and had the jointer in the first set of tool. Would love to know what else I do or don’t need.
@@VumVan Don't know what tools you have, but you can use hand planes (if you just have a #5 it'll work aok) and winding sticks. If you have a router, you can flatten anything up to great big slabs several feet across. Good luck and hope you make some great projects
@@seaotter52 Thank you! I just finished a vanity recently and still rather new to wood working. That was my first project that involves more than just 2x4's. I have table saw, miter saw, router, and orbit sander. I had some trouble getting some joined panels flat.
@@VumVan Sounds like a pretty good set-up. Just remember that folks a couple of centuries ago would have thought they'd died and gone to heaven with the tools you and I have. For big slabs that aren't flat, a sled kind of fixture using the router can trim the slab flat. You can use any bit that does a groove, but I like a bowel or dish bit(about $40-45). Right now trying to decide on a small entertainment center or some gift boxes for next fun. Enjoy!
I have a quick question not really related to this video but I will ask anyway. I am new to woodworking and am in the process of building a very simple cross cut sled for my job site table saw. The question is when I am done do I use the cross cut sled with the riving knife that comes with the saw or do I remove it, or does it matter one way or another? Thanks. Chris
Came early to the comments! Man you are a master in the craft, love your videos, and the effort you put into a good quality content, best wishes from Costa Rica 🇨🇷
Question, what is the best type of board to buy/use that if flat to use as the base jig when surfacing planing/face joining board ? I’ve looked at some 3/4 inch plywood but the ends are always curved a bit.
Thank you, I’m just getting started. I’ll look for some of this. Assuming this would be good stuff for any jig. Just bought my first portable table saw and looking at trying to make one of your sleds for that as well for cross cut, etc with one of your stops.
That was really good useful information, but how about straightening a long piece. I heard using a long level or a really straight board alongside the table saw fence?
@ 2:55, how do you know the board being cut is parallel to the table saw blade? It seems like this could result in a cut that is not parallel with the other side of the board
Tool links and things I talk about in this video:
Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig, Shirts and K-M Stop Block here: goo.gl/XzEmMa
BitsBits router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
James Wright Winding Sticks Video: ua-cam.com/video/wfVp9D8mg_c/v-deo.html
Información👍
Hey brother....what type of glue sticks do you use in the hot glue gun? I can't find any that are more, light duty
What are those router bit numbers?
Bits&bits isn't honoring your 15% off code anymore. Too bad, I wanted to do business with them.
@@jonmcdaniel3021 that's definitely not true. I'd email customer support.
I don't have the real estate in my shop for a jointer. This was the best video I've found on how to tackle that problem. Thanks so much!
Man, you just set me free. I’ve started selling some pieces I’ve made as of recently and I have really felt the pressure to spend a ton of money on a jointer just bc every video you see that’s of any quality wood working at all, has a jointer involved. Anyway, long story short, thank you so much. I liked and subscribed. Thank you again
I love your 90 degree, magnetized hand-plane jig. Thank you.
You just saved me 725 bucks. I am planning out my shop and that was one of the tools on my list. Thanks for the video.
Buy a cheap trimmer or router, set a table, make a hole on it, install the said trimmer upside down from under the table, make a nice straight fence, and boom you got a jointer.
I was just trying to figure out ways to do this yesterday, and this morning your video popped up on my feed. Absolutely perfect. Now I just need to find one thing in my shop that actually has a straight edge to use as a guide, and I'm golden. Thanks for this extremely helpful video!
Same. I opted to just break down and buy a new level to use for that purpose.
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
What the fuck are you talking about
Shut your mouth and go away.
I don’t know why I didn’t think of a flush trim bit for making a straight edge. What a great idea, thanks a lot!
I'm glad they exist, did not know about them.
A jointer and a flush trim bit work in the same principle. Unless it's more powerful.
Another great tip is the track saw, which you mentioned, except you don't cut your boards 1 at a time. You clamp the two boards you are going to join together first and run the track saw blade over both joining edges at the saame time. What the blade cuts off the edge of one blade, it cuts the exact same thing of the edge of the other board so when you push them back together to get rid of the now saw blade width gap between them, they are perfectly joined because they were both cut with the exact same blade at the exact same time. Only thing to worry about is how? To clamp both boards and the track saw guide together to get the cut done without cutting whatever you are clamping them together. There are a bunch of ways to do this and plenty of videos on UA-cam, but it is a great technique and works really well. Especially for joining really long boards together which are more problematic with more traditional joining methods. I use this method to join 8 foot panels together for entry doors, etc.
These are great tips. I did break down and purchase a jointer because I found face jointing so painful. The planer sled worked fine, I just found it so time consuming and monotonous walking from one side of the planer to the other over and over and over. For what it's worth, Grizzly's G0814 (or G0813 if you want the economy stand) 6" jointer runs on 120V and has worked great in my shop thus far. I'm just a hobbyist, though. These tips are still useful even if you have a jointer since, as you mention, sometimes you can't run a piece through your particular jointer. MDF makes a great planer sled, by the way. It's going to be dead flat.
As a spanish native speaker, I must say that your pronunciation of the name "Antonio" es very good, asgood as your videos!
Thanks for these tips. They are very helpful. I'm curious about the small elevated workspace you're using. I'd love to see how that was made of learn more about it. I'm always looking for convenient ways to raise my work.
That hand plane jig is genious!
Great video for those of us with jointer envy! I’ve also used a router and a straight bit to joint two boards intended to be joined together. Have the router bit just kiss each side enough to catch the wider parts and run the router along a straight edge. Great results with that technique too!
Making a table and thank god for your video. So excited to get started!!!
This was a huge help, thanks! I have just a small space for workshop and would love a jointer/planer, but simply don't have the space, whereas a planer/thicknesser would fit. This helped me realise I can work around the lack of a dedicated jointer.
Subscribed cuz: you explained it in a way that I could understand, you created that magnetic fence that I've yet to see in any other woodworking tip video, and you didn't ask for me to subscribe. Thanks for all those things.
That is pretty unique, huh? I feel like I might actually be able to make that, too. Now to buy a plane...
I too like the non begging. As for the 90* plane fence, they go back centuries on the old wooden planes with screws and with the metal planes I've seen both magnets and screws (plane body was drilled and tapped) used. The rare earth magnets are really cool. So versatile. The lipped edge on JKM s version is really clever.. Another project in the future
I have always jointed with the router technique you've shown. Figured it out on my own, and have been told it was wrong, but it always worked for me. Glad to now know I'm not alone.
Another tip is, if you're working with a super thick board, use the router method to get the line, then follow up with a track saw to finish the cut perfectly. Using a combination of these methods, and a planer, I really see no need, for me, to waste the money and space on a jointer.
Sold my jointer, purchased a Festool track saw TS 75for clean edges and use hand scraper to clean edges. I use hand planes to flatten it.
Hand planes may not give perfectly straight, smooth 90° edges for gluing layups.
From experience, a jointer is the most important and Essential piece of machinery of a wood workshop. Full time carpentry workshop needs one for sure. Save time and thus money.
I’ve come to the conclusion that a nice router set and table saw with nice accessories is all I will need for a while.
I’m glad my wife didn’t watch your video before I bought my jointer. 😉😁 Great job Jonathan.
Definitely taking the jointer off the to buy tool list. Thanks
Ross I am about to mill up 20 metres of board length, so 40 metres of edges. I'd hate to be having to do this without a jointer.
Jonathan, where have you been all my wood working life?!?! The last thing I need is to subscribe to ANOTHER wood working channel but you reeled me in. This is my first video but i love your style, delivery,
& tips.
hi I want to say you are awesome greetings from Poland
Very succinct explanations on the various ways for preparing boards for edge gluing without the use of a jointer. Thank you very much!
thx for this - no room or cash for a jointer. ordered the bits
I use the jointer/router system when gluing up panels, but I "joint" two boards the same time. so they fit a 100% together. Just position them sligtley nearer than the diameter of the Bit, then with one pass joint both. Thanks for the Vid. New subscriber ;-)
What I want to say is your straight cut jig is the most sensible I've ever seen. It solves one major problem with the ones that use those top down clamps, and that they're only designed for one board size. Yours can handle a variety of sizes.
Very nice work. Subscribed.
You just saved me a bunch of money, great video man appreciate it.
Fantastic. Not owning anything other than a circular saw and a compound miter saw, I guess my next purchase is a router for method #1. Thanks so much!!
I love the magnetic jig for your hand plane. Great idea
Great tips. I’m not sure I’ll ever have the space to justify a decent jointer. My trick for edge jointing long (e.g. 8 - 12’) stock is to use the track saw to establish the reference edge. Much easier to clean (& eventually replace) a good track saw blade than a good router bit (3x more $$).
I built my first table using some of these methods. While they worked, my results were not 100% and now that I have a jointer, I can say without a doubt it's absolutely worth its weight in gold when it comes to making straight, flat, square pieces of lumber.
Useful! Thanks! For that pencil demo, use the thicker carpenter pencil for camera pick up
For the planner sled I made mine from scrap Corian then I put a few blobs of 5min drywall mud, layer of cellophane then imbed my board. 5 minutes later mud is hard and ready for the planner.
Woah! I might have to do a video on that! Good idea!
I FOUND THE COMMENT THAT SPAWNED IT ALL
Its "hot mud" not "drywall mud"
Two different things
Drywall mud does NOT dry in 5min
Hot mud DOES though!
Easy way to confuse someone else trying to copy you
With my router I have a 2" slot cutter bit. I shim my out going table fence by 1/16". Now I have a "jointer" that will handle a 2" face. Cheaper bit that works great for me ...
The router jig is ingenious! i cant believe i only discovered this know thanks
Great help. Had to rewatch. I have a jointer but I bought a used one It’s a 6” Delta. But I struggle with longer boards. Even with a roller stand.
Awesome video production value, nice music on the slow motion scenes! Super
This helps me with the tools that I’ve already have and limited space for large stationary shop tools.
Jason Babila
I’m terrified of the jointer and would much rather utilIze a sled like this or even a router sled
Joe Gravelle. Perhaps looking at the European version of a jointer would help, Joe? They have guards that don’t move out of the way, so it encourages you to keep your hands safe. Just a thought.
Interesting you said that about metal studs. I am an outside sales rep for a drywall supply company and thought to use studs because I knew how straight metal is compared to wood.
For edge of board straightening I've used sleds and the like before. If you have several boards to straighten on the edge, I have made a long straight edge that clamps to my table saw fence, and then run the concave side of the board to the straight-edge and true up the opposite side and it works great. This works fairly well if you have many boards to straighten quickly. The Straight Edge needs to be about double the length of the boards that you're using. Thanks for your video.
This is how I do REALLY long boards. I use an 8 foot level as the fence.
The hand plane jig has saved me so many hours of time wow
Excellent information simply explained easily understood. Thanks for posting
Thanks for more understandable use for winding sticks
Hmm you just talked me out of a $1200 purchase man. In all honesty I have stuck with buying bbs panel glue ups. I was thinking of trying to make my own jointer but that requires time and resources that I just don't have. Thanks for the awesome info bud, keep'em coming.
Dude. Buy a cheap hand planer from pawn shop. Put new blades on it.
Take two different tables - surfaces
One a 1/16" higher than the other
Mount the hand planer upside down to the lower table / surface (clamps or screws, festool trac clamps work amazing for this)
Boom. Instant joiner less than $100 +4hrs labor......
So many great tips here. I've always struggled with getting boards flat and was seriously starting to try to figure out how to get a jointer because I've only ever seen people plane things flat or use a jointer
Not only would I love to have your tool collection but even more so your woodworking knowledge!!
Your knowledge with woodwork is amazing! ThankQ for sharing your God given talents!! Great video! 👍
Excellent, thank you! I needed a way to do this without one for sure.
just listening to the audio i feel like im getting woodworking tips from Guy Fieri. Good Stuff!
Steel studs for framing are normally bowed. If you really want something long and straight ask a glazier for a cut off of aluminum storefront framing.
Great video... i flipped my way from a tiny delta jointer i bought for $50 then sold for $220 after i cleaned it up and bought a larger ridgid for $200... so i made $20 and got a jointer lol.
a plywood router sled, or if you happen to be a cnc enthusiasts like me, your cnc router, can 100% replace the planer as well for flattening the face of the board. 1-2 inch face mills (meant for surfacing the spoilboard on a cnc router), are GREAT for flattening big hunks of wood. The hand router is a good cheapish way to do that kind of stuff, even if it is a bit slow. A semi decent plunge router, the bits, and the sled are gonna cost less than a planer.
That was a nice video. I have to make a table. Must be about 8ft long and 2 inches tall. Of course my lumber is a bit bigger. I try with tablesaw and the disk burning the wood. Should I try with router and aluminum slade? Or?
A great video as always, Jonathan. I don’t currently have any machines available to me at home, but the magnetic hand plane guide, is a damn fine idea 👌 Thanks.
Chris Morris The mag jig for a hand plane fence is cute, but craftsmen have used a simpler method for ages. Just lay the board flat, pack it up a bit, and work with your plane laying on its side. No waiting.
@@leehaelters6182 Lee, I was thinking the same thing, but it occurred to me that Jonathan does not have a full size workbench. Just that wee bench we see in his videos with the Moxon vice on top. That is going to make it harder to plane a longish board edge against a bench dog, or even use a shooting board. When you see Rob Cosman plane an edge, he starts with it square from the jointer, and does that trick pushing down on the plane with his left thumb to keep the plane flat to the wood, or he'll do what you described, or use a shooting board.
Great video! I’ve been stuck on this!
videos like these do really help a lot for beginners like me. Thanks a ton!
really enjoy watching your videos. Always informative and easy to understand.
How would you secure a notched end (like a birds mouth, used at the bottom ends of 2 sets of crossed/scissor legs) to a square piece of wood running horizontal from one set of legs to the other set of legs on the opposite side) Wish I could send a photo.
I love watching your videos. I’m still learning as most are as well and just knowing that you can dial in a piece of wood that’s twisting or cupping without dropping another $300 on a tool that collects dust when not in use; this ups the skill value. For me personally, I would much rather have skill value over a shop full of tools that when not in use are just a lost investment and this also goes towards how to problem solve which if you can’t do that then woodworking will never get to the point that you master a craft. I have a bunch of pallet wood slats that are varying widths and about 1/2” thick but they’re cupped badly and I’m looking for a time efficient way to make them safe to true up on the table saw without kickback and make them fit into one another for a feature wall without annoying gaps.
I’m also going to say that me getting into DIY and woodworking has saved my mind from ultimately losing it with the political circus going off the rails. This forces me to unplug that garbage and do what gives me personal satisfaction and a piece of mind in learning for the sake of learning but also developing a skill that I didn’t have before, how to think about wood and make things that come to my mind and empower myself to not rely outside myself. So I’m respectful in that wood has a long-standing tradition of being more towards the spiritual in a way because it’s grounding and when you just stop and listen to that creative inner mind at play, the pieces all come together.
Take Care and Be Safe!
Awesome content!!! Love this channel
I have a jointer but this video shows good techniques for everyone.
Every time I’m about to buy a 6in porter cable bench top jointer I come watch this and let JKM talk me down
As a newbee woodworker, this is great to know. Thanks!
Thank you!! I’ve got a wonky slab of walnut that really needs this treatment.
I liked your planer tip on the warped board.
Excellent vid
I have seen these methods used by so many different channels that they really should work as stated. I'll have to try them out when I get back into my shop and see first hand. Thanks for reinforcing methods that can work in the absence of a jointer.
you just gained a subscriber. thanks man
Welcome my friend!
I guess it depends on how (& where) you source your material (rough) but the jointer is usually actually one of the most important machines in the shop.
That’s where it all starts.
Process it true from the beginning and it’s a lot less work (&trouble) every step after.
You're the Peter McKinnon of woodworkers, excellent explanations and cool videos!
Well that's about as good as a compliment gets. Thank you
Thanks for this vid. Sometimes it helps to think INSIDE the toolbox 🙃
Shop worked wood professionally for 35 years. Never owned a jointer. Straightened with table saw and router using straight edges. Never could afford floor space for a tool (jointer, bandsaw, shaper) that didn’t earn its keep. That’s what mill works shops are for and I was mostly doing casework. Had a door plant make doors.
I had this very problem this week whilst making a 2' wide by 39" long window sill.. (old stone cottage reno) I was using a 9" standard PINE bull-nosed board in 3 sections to give me the required width (bullnose cut off 2) 🤨
The edges seemed fine, square & straight so I glued her up... the following morning my sill was now a pretzel ! 😂
Sooo... I cut back into 3 strips, used the packing-up/hotglue planer thicknesser trick and when I got 'em flat I used my tracksaw to "joint" the edges.
Glue-up #2 went fine & I varnished it before the moisture content changed & it tryed to re-pretzel on me 🙄
I was lucky it was just a sill & finished thickness & width weren't so critical 😏
I've also tried using the router table with a shim on the outfeed side of the fence & cutter edge lined up with that shim... couldn't get it to work for some reason.
On shorter boards a shooting-board type of setup and a long plane works too...
Also... its worth mentioning to always flatten a face first... before an edge... 😏
Nice vid...
Subbed & liked, my friend !
😎👍☘🍺
If you are relying in finish to keep out moisture to keep your boards from warping, it will not be a long term solution. Moisture will eventually get in and the boards are going to do what they are going to do. If your boards warped thst bad the first time, then you simply need to use more stable wood then you used for that project.
This was a great video. Little bit of a "channel identity" and then right on to why google brought me here. Thank you!
Thank you very much for this extremely informative video. The way that you explain the method in this video made it very clear on what needed to be done.
Great video and really useful techniques. Super job.
Thanks, handy as I was in a friends shop yesterday, using his jointer and thicknesser which I don't possess!
Would be awesome to get your opinion Katz on the order in which you should set your shop up! Understandable it would be dependent on the work you do but maybe there is a general way to explain it.
I am setting up my shop now and had the jointer in the first set of tool. Would love to know what else I do or don’t need.
Excellent, thank you. I have a nice router but no straight template bit yet.
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience
"You don't need to buy a jointer"... "...but you'll need a planer"
Great ideas for a flat edge but doesn’t solve my other problem with no planner haha
@@VumVan Don't know what tools you have, but you can use hand planes (if you just have a #5 it'll work aok) and winding sticks. If you have a router, you can flatten anything up to great big slabs several feet across. Good luck and hope you make some great projects
@@seaotter52 Thank you! I just finished a vanity recently and still rather new to wood working. That was my first project that involves more than just 2x4's. I have table saw, miter saw, router, and orbit sander. I had some trouble getting some joined panels flat.
@@VumVan
Sounds like a pretty good set-up. Just remember that folks a couple of centuries ago would have thought they'd died and gone to heaven with the tools you and I have. For big slabs that aren't flat, a sled kind of fixture using the router can trim the slab flat. You can use any bit that does a groove, but I like a bowel or dish bit(about $40-45). Right now trying to decide on a small entertainment center or some gift boxes for next fun. Enjoy!
Mike Gardner what's a bowel bit lol 💩
Great info. So how do you fix a wonky board that has neither flat edge nor flat face without a jointer AND a planer?
Jonathan, do you have any videos for people that don't have a jointer or planer?
Wish I sseen this before I bought the jointer..lol.. Awesome video. Will definitely use these techniques. Thanks
Hey, do u have a video on how to make that No7 planer guide with the magnets?
I have a quick question not really related to this video but I will ask anyway. I am new to woodworking and am in the process of building a very simple cross cut sled for my job site table saw. The question is when I am done do I use the cross cut sled with the riving knife that comes with the saw or do I remove it, or does it matter one way or another?
Thanks.
Chris
Leave it in
@@katzmosestools Thanks.
Hey Katz, question. What are good ways to plane wide boards when you don't have a planer? Video to recommend?
Came early to the comments! Man you are a master in the craft, love your videos, and the effort you put into a good quality content, best wishes from Costa Rica 🇨🇷
Thanks bud!
As always, great tips. I don't expect to have a joiner any time soon, so I'll need these tips.
Well done, friend. I always learn something from your videos, much appreciated.
Nice job mate!
Awesome techniques
Question, what is the best type of board to buy/use that if flat to use as the base jig when surfacing planing/face joining board ? I’ve looked at some 3/4 inch plywood but the ends are always curved a bit.
Baltic birch
Thank you, I’m just getting started. I’ll look for some of this. Assuming this would be good stuff for any jig. Just bought my first portable table saw and looking at trying to make one of your sleds for that as well for cross cut, etc with one of your stops.
Great Vid keep up the good work. Just a thought.. Will the Sled you use in the first method cause any issues as it looks a little cupped to me.
Hey that's a genius hand plane jig! (I'm a beginner. lol)
Great video bro! How would you edge joint a 2x6 or 8 that's 8ft long without a joiner?
That was really good useful information, but how about straightening a long piece. I heard using a long level or a really straight board alongside the table saw fence?
Thanks for all the info great video.
@ 2:55, how do you know the board being cut is parallel to the table saw blade? It seems like this could result in a cut that is not parallel with the other side of the board