Nice daily rider. I like the additional intake plenum reinforcements to keep it from blowing off. No sense on doing a full engine build on something you'll leave a stock swingarm on, for actually getting around. I'll always remember the bike nights I used to go to in Texas. Guys would have to do Y-turns just to get their extended turbo busas in and out of the parking lot. I always thought that was dumb. This is a nice build for scootin' around town without worrying about breaking the rear loose every time you touch the throttle on street rubbers.
I was thinking the thing same, I would have found away to reinforce that weak spot, otherwise all the stress will focus on the weak spot, Other than that very Nice Build
22:31 "500 to 600hp which is way more than enough on the street" And on the track And the drag strip And the Houston rocket launch pad Also, the customer "want to take it on long rides" Holy smokes, touring with 240hp must be an EXPERIENCE
Installation Available! Because of the updated electronics package on the Gen3 Hayabusa, an aftermarket ECU is needed to keep full function of cruise control, traction control, diver modes etc. We offer a plug and play MaxxECU Sport ECU Package and recommend it for use with this turbo kit. Drive in, Drive out price with stage 1 kit and ECU package installation and tuning - $11,750.00 +/- depending on available options.
Maybe for a little while.. We don't push more than 4-5 psi on a stock engine. We do have an engine build list with links to all parts here:store.schnitzracing.com/suzuki-hayabusa-turbo-engine-upgrade-list/
@@schnitz_racing strange... whenever I put a turbo on I usually increase the oil cooling, not decrease it... I'm sure it's over engineered to cope with short runs without the oil cooler... tho there is a common fail if run too long without oil cooling in the Hayabusa, I hope you have warned your client.
@@raymondedwards721 Agree 100%. The idea of helping people is to ensure that their new Gen3 investment is protected. Cutting the oil cooler completely reduces this bike to racing and even not so much because with the limitation of 4psi, whats the point :) and for street not so great either by eliminating oil cooling, which is 100% needed because the turbo is heating the oil much more than stock. Everyone wants to sell and install turbos, but is anyone thinking of the customer and that new Gen3? Plus their price for a Gen3 turbo setup is over $11k and that is for a 4psi turbo. Why not more psi? Because then the engine would have to come out and a spacer would have to be put in for up to 8-10psi. And for more psi...stronger engine fortification. I know Schnitz is trying to be helpful here, but you have to provide the complete picture. People blow engines and wonder why. This is why. hardrider.net
@@schnitz_racing @schnitz_racing Thanks for your response. Does that apply to the Gen 1 Busa as well? Should you remove the 8mm hex bolt from inside the oil filter assembly on a Gen 1 Busa if you deleted the stock oil cooler? When I did my turbo conversion I just re-positioned the oil cooler to the inside right hand side of the stock radiator. Not ideal but it still drops the oil temp enough to make a measurable difference. I might have missed it in your video but what was the reason for removing - rather than (repositioning) - the OEM oil cooler?
@@djmkultra6806 Yes, this applies to all Hayabusa engines with oil coolers removed. The RCC eliminates the oil cooler to allow the front of the bike to be lowered without interference.
@@schnitz_racing Thanks for that. A few more question please . . . . Is the oil filter housing the only place on a Gen 1 that can be used to feed oil to the oil cooler? I remember seeing a Turbo Busa that had its stock oil cooler feed line coming from somewhere down low on the Busa's engine's right side. Did I fail to view/understand that right, or is it possible to feed an oil cooler (located in the standard Gen 1 position and now in front of the turbocharger) on a Gen 1 Busa from other parts of the engine that present the oil at sufficient pressure to allow it to reach the oil cooler? What I mean is, if I purchased an oil cooler radiator that could be located in front of the Busa's standard radiator, but also high up in front of the standard radiator, so (it doesn't scrape the front tire and the turbocharger is not shrouded by the oil cooler and is therefore exposed to a clear and clean/cold air flow, and) that only about 1/3rd of the air/water radiator's front surface is covered, could I still feed that oil cooler (which is considerably raised up from the where the stock oil cooler is usually mounted) from the oil feed line located at the oil filter housing? I mean would there be enough oil pressure (from the oil filter housing and/or from another location on the engine) to push the oil through the relocated/risen oil cooler? Or, could the oil cooler be fed from another oil outlet on the engine which has sufficient pressure? And if so where? If there is not enough oil pressure from the oil filter housing and/or any other part of the engine to feed the raised oil cooler, then if I suggested I could use an external oil pump to generate enough pressure to push the oil up to the higher oil cooler, would you recommend that? Sorry, about the long post and all the questions but even though I have had my turbo Busa for almost 20 years there's not a great deal of people that know about turbo Busa's where I come from.
holy hell...so many "go ahead". I am just going to go ahead and stop this video because I can't handle it any more. I am going to go ahead and head on over to something else. You guys can go ahead and enjoy the rest of this video. Hope the owner of that 'busa will go ahead and ride safe...
Ok lets discuss and keep it honest if people can handle the truth. I would recommend keep the Gen3 stock and buy a Gen2 plus turbo kit and have 2 bikes for a shit load of fun without ruining your Gen3 investment. Why? In this column it was reported that the turbo kit for the gen3 complete was $11k, (which I think is 11k for the RCC kit and 4k MaxxECU - approximate) plus installation. The problem with this is it is a bolt on solution and a spacer is not being added to lower the compression and that is why you can only use 4psi, which is hardly using the turbo at all. On top of this, the RCC kit is not using the oil cooler so this is being pulled, now heating the oil much higher and making this bike not so great for any kind of longer type rides. To pull the motor is a lot of work, but it lowers the compression so you can now begin to USE the turbo up to 8-10psi and now you are using the turbo. We suggest you purchase a Gen2 and have Schnitz purchase a turbo from HardRider Motorcycle (North American Distributor for ProBoost (25yrs building turbos retail price $2699USD plus $500 for a preprogrammed replacement ECU (save $4k on not needing the MaxECU) plus a Cometic spacer gasket $100. The Gen2 is more basic than the Gen3 which has more electronic issues. Bottom line the offering her for a Gen3 turbo is $11k plus tune getting you 4psi because of not spacer and not great with pulled oil cooler. Get Schnitz to order a turbo from hardrider.net and you can buy a Gen2 for $8k, plus turbo for $2699 and you get a bike and a turbo for the same price as the Gen3 as mentioned here. This way you can streetfighter your gen2 and hammer the crap out of it and leave your gen3 investment as a clean stock bike ideal for big highway trips.
The engine wouldn't hold up very long on 10lbs of boost, the pistons and valve springs being the weak spot. However 10lbs of boost would make close to 340-360 hp if we had to guess.
@@hardridermotorcycle obviously. Thats why we said "the engine wouldn't hold up very long on 10lbs of boost." And the gen 3 customer is extremely happy and hasn't had any complains. He has put over 4,000 miles on it.
Busa's are strong engines, however to get to 10psi, you would at least have to put in a Cometic Spacer to lower compression. Beyond 9-10psi fuel pump injectors, rods, pistons etc are going to be required.
@iginogasparini3369 oh yeah, a H2. Already $15,000 more than a Hayabusa, then 330 HP in there with engine work, youll need a new engine every 5000km. A valve adjustment every 1000km. And about another $8000into it for the cams and a pipe and ecu work. And good luck getting parts and service done when something breaks. You're talking pure fairy tail land shit. The hayabusa is the way to go all day long.
10Lb of Boost will blow that motor without a head spacer to lower compression. Luckily for the customer he is likely not using the power that much and getting away with it. This bike puts out 12.5/1, you need to be in the 9's. Maybe thats not in the instructions :) Even RCC states that without a spacer max boost is 4psi. This is so low that you are hardly even using the turbo. And its sooooo easy to jump past that. This is a fact.
This build with the stock engine uses a 4 pound wastegate spring. Perfectly safe and reliable. Lots of additional engine build info here - store.schnitzracing.com/suzuki-hayabusa-turbo-engine-upgrade-list/
Way to fast and not enough explained not enough pictures of fitting jobs done when finished really not enough information. BUT and its a big but other than what i have said ABSOLUTELY A GREAT VIDEO and thank you for taking your time to do what you did do great end result fair play to you from Ireland, just a little fast not enough but enough to understand 👏 😀 again lovely job unbeatable end result.. wife would come out asking when your sitting on the MA chine, will you get me a bottle of mike when you reply IM BACK 😅
Yeah, we are not in the video production business. We like to build fast bikes quickly so our customers can enjoy them. Not much time for editing and producing, but we did want to show how easy it was to install a turbo kit we offer.
An installation like this is going to kill your engine. Ask Yammy Noob, it killed his. RCC is the only company I know that says the engine does not need to come out for the cometic spacer to lower compression. The Gen3 is 12.5 compression ratio, way too high for this kind of kit. Thats also why on the RCC site they say that their Stage1 can not go over 4psi which is so low as to hardly utilize a turbo. Turbos Hayabusa's all need a cometic spacers to get horsepower safely. This turbo is going to at best be capable of 230hp and if it goes over this it will blow. So put the spacer in and SAVE your engine. This video is made to make the turbo look so easy to sell turbos, but no turbo is this easy to install. RCC from my conversations with them will not install a Gen3 turbo without a $3k MaxxECU which makes them a lot more expensive to put a turbo on than a Gen2. Gen2 continues to be the olde school sweetheart for turbo installations, but still as all generations require a compression lowering cometic spacer.
@@schnitz_racing Rather than just tell me I am wrong. Why not say WHY I am wrong. I am not wrong. Without the spacer you are limited to 4psi which hardly uses the turbo at all. Why the limitation? Compression is too high at 12:5/1. Further, you are eliminating the oil cooler which is a complete must when the turbo is overheating the oil. So bottom line for $11k you are providing a very very mild turbo that can not be ridden on roads due to overheating. Help your clients out, by saving a ton of money and provide a better solution that will give them a long lasting kit. I think Schnitz should offer ProBoost Turbo kits as an option, using our 25 year experience with a solid setup for a fraction of the price. Offer your clients BOTH options. Talk to us. You are relying on one source too much. hardrider.net Lets dialogue.
Hello, Its the "kid" that did this work... even though I am 20. Customer has had bike for 6 months now... couldn't be happier. He has ridden it plenty and no problems. Thanks for your Comment!
Cool video! It's bike use Maxx Ecu?
Yes, it does.
The "Umm" count is hilarious!!!!
I cant listen to anything else after reading this comment😂
Great job man don't sweat on the comments 😆
Nice daily rider. I like the additional intake plenum reinforcements to keep it from blowing off. No sense on doing a full engine build on something you'll leave a stock swingarm on, for actually getting around.
I'll always remember the bike nights I used to go to in Texas. Guys would have to do Y-turns just to get their extended turbo busas in and out of the parking lot. I always thought that was dumb. This is a nice build for scootin' around town without worrying about breaking the rear loose every time you touch the throttle on street rubbers.
I was thinking the thing same, I would have found away to reinforce that weak spot, otherwise all the stress will focus on the weak spot, Other than that very Nice Build
Good job making it look very easy!
22:31 "500 to 600hp which is way more than enough on the street"
And on the track
And the drag strip
And the Houston rocket launch pad
Also, the customer "want to take it on long rides" Holy smokes, touring with 240hp must be an EXPERIENCE
You need a "go ahead" counter, too lol
You guys are doing awsome job you guys have great skills rebuild bikes like matarmstrong rebuild cars ❤❤❤❤❤
one of the best how to video
Thank you!
May I ask why u pull of the oil restrictor like does it it do sum else
I thought all boosted applications had to do a spacer plate?
How much was all this setup cost your. Labor and parts
Installation Available! Because of the updated electronics package on the Gen3 Hayabusa, an aftermarket ECU is needed to keep full function of cruise control, traction control, diver modes etc. We offer a plug and play MaxxECU Sport ECU Package and recommend it for use with this turbo kit. Drive in, Drive out price with stage 1 kit and ECU package installation and tuning - $11,750.00 +/- depending on available options.
You missed an Ummm at 11 min 35 seconds.
PS. It's a great video.
Ryan why didn’t you count your Um’s at the beginning of the video? 😉🤣
what If I wanted 300 whp? could you still remain on stock internals?
Maybe for a little while.. We don't push more than 4-5 psi on a stock engine. We do have an engine build list with links to all parts here:store.schnitzracing.com/suzuki-hayabusa-turbo-engine-upgrade-list/
Gen 1 can do 350 hp on stock every thing
@@legendary_perfomance negative
Yeah for a couple passes lol
Great video.
If this is the same "Aaron" you tuned the Red Monster in 09?
Any internal work done on this engine? Base spacer? Rods? Heavier springs?
No internal mods. 100% stock engine.
I got the bike.What's the cost of this same set up
Turbo Kit: store.schnitzracing.com/turbo-kit-stage-1-suzuki-hayabusa-21-24/
ECU Kit: store.schnitzracing.com/maxxecu-sport-plug-and-play-kit-suzuki-gsxr1000-17-25/
So...... no oil cooler?
Correct, oil cooler is removed.
@@schnitz_racing strange... whenever I put a turbo on I usually increase the oil cooling, not decrease it... I'm sure it's over engineered to cope with short runs without the oil cooler... tho there is a common fail if run too long without oil cooling in the Hayabusa, I hope you have warned your client.
@@raymondedwards721 We've had no issues and our customers are fully informed with all the information they need.
@@raymondedwards721 Agree 100%. The idea of helping people is to ensure that their new Gen3 investment is protected. Cutting the oil cooler completely reduces this bike to racing and even not so much because with the limitation of 4psi, whats the point :) and for street not so great either by eliminating oil cooling, which is 100% needed because the turbo is heating the oil much more than stock. Everyone wants to sell and install turbos, but is anyone thinking of the customer and that new Gen3? Plus their price for a Gen3 turbo setup is over $11k and that is for a 4psi turbo. Why not more psi? Because then the engine would have to come out and a spacer would have to be put in for up to 8-10psi. And for more psi...stronger engine fortification. I know Schnitz is trying to be helpful here, but you have to provide the complete picture. People blow engines and wonder why. This is why. hardrider.net
14:55 What the reason for removing the oil restriction 8mm hex bolt?
When the factory oil cooler is removed, the restrictor that helps to push oil to the oil cooler needs to be removed also.
@@schnitz_racing @schnitz_racing Thanks for your response.
Does that apply to the Gen 1 Busa as well? Should you remove the 8mm hex bolt from inside the oil filter assembly on a Gen 1 Busa if you deleted the stock oil cooler?
When I did my turbo conversion I just re-positioned the oil cooler to the inside right hand side of the stock radiator. Not ideal but it still drops the oil temp enough to make a measurable difference.
I might have missed it in your video but what was the reason for removing - rather than (repositioning) - the OEM oil cooler?
@@djmkultra6806 Yes, this applies to all Hayabusa engines with oil coolers removed. The RCC eliminates the oil cooler to allow the front of the bike to be lowered without interference.
@@schnitz_racing Thanks for that.
A few more question please . . . . Is the oil filter housing the only place on a Gen 1 that can be used to feed oil to the oil cooler?
I remember seeing a Turbo Busa that had its stock oil cooler feed line coming from somewhere down low on the Busa's engine's right side. Did I fail to view/understand that right, or is it possible to feed an oil cooler (located in the standard Gen 1 position and now in front of the turbocharger) on a Gen 1 Busa from other parts of the engine that present the oil at sufficient pressure to allow it to reach the oil cooler?
What I mean is, if I purchased an oil cooler radiator that could be located in front of the Busa's standard radiator, but also high up in front of the standard radiator, so (it doesn't scrape the front tire and the turbocharger is not shrouded by the oil cooler and is therefore exposed to a clear and clean/cold air flow, and) that only about 1/3rd of the air/water radiator's front surface is covered, could I still feed that oil cooler (which is considerably raised up from the where the stock oil cooler is usually mounted) from the oil feed line located at the oil filter housing?
I mean would there be enough oil pressure (from the oil filter housing and/or from another location on the engine) to push the oil through the relocated/risen oil cooler?
Or, could the oil cooler be fed from another oil outlet on the engine which has sufficient pressure? And if so where?
If there is not enough oil pressure from the oil filter housing and/or any other part of the engine to feed the raised oil cooler, then if I suggested I could use an external oil pump to generate enough pressure to push the oil up to the higher oil cooler, would you recommend that?
Sorry, about the long post and all the questions but even though I have had my turbo Busa for almost 20 years there's not a great deal of people that know about turbo Busa's where I come from.
@@djmkultra6806 The engine will have no problem pumping oil to an oil cooler mounted at the front, top, bottom or under the radiator.
2:16 Get that dude a lapel mic!!!
holy hell...so many "go ahead". I am just going to go ahead and stop this video because I can't handle it any more. I am going to go ahead and head on over to something else. You guys can go ahead and enjoy the rest of this video. Hope the owner of that 'busa will go ahead and ride safe...
Thanks for the feedback!
How much does it cost? To build the 600hp for the street, contact me , i am interested
lets discuss how we can do this to my 2024 gsxr1300!
we absolutly can! You can email trevor@schnitzracing for a quote, or any questions!
Ok lets discuss and keep it honest if people can handle the truth. I would recommend keep the Gen3 stock and buy a Gen2 plus turbo kit and have 2 bikes for a shit load of fun without ruining your Gen3 investment. Why? In this column it was reported that the turbo kit for the gen3 complete was $11k, (which I think is 11k for the RCC kit and 4k MaxxECU - approximate) plus installation. The problem with this is it is a bolt on solution and a spacer is not being added to lower the compression and that is why you can only use 4psi, which is hardly using the turbo at all. On top of this, the RCC kit is not using the oil cooler so this is being pulled, now heating the oil much higher and making this bike not so great for any kind of longer type rides. To pull the motor is a lot of work, but it lowers the compression so you can now begin to USE the turbo up to 8-10psi and now you are using the turbo. We suggest you purchase a Gen2 and have Schnitz purchase a turbo from HardRider Motorcycle (North American Distributor for ProBoost (25yrs building turbos retail price $2699USD plus $500 for a preprogrammed replacement ECU (save $4k on not needing the MaxECU) plus a Cometic spacer gasket $100. The Gen2 is more basic than the Gen3 which has more electronic issues. Bottom line the offering her for a Gen3 turbo is $11k plus tune getting you 4psi because of not spacer and not great with pulled oil cooler. Get Schnitz to order a turbo from hardrider.net and you can buy a Gen2 for $8k, plus turbo for $2699 and you get a bike and a turbo for the same price as the Gen3 as mentioned here. This way you can streetfighter your gen2 and hammer the crap out of it and leave your gen3 investment as a clean stock bike ideal for big highway trips.
Umm great video :)
New sub 🎉🎉
Could be a dumb question, but what do you think the whp would be with 10lbs of boost, and would the engine handle it stock?
The engine wouldn't hold up very long on 10lbs of boost, the pistons and valve springs being the weak spot. However 10lbs of boost would make close to 340-360 hp if we had to guess.
Not in a million years without lowering the compression with a cometic spacer.
@@hardridermotorcycle obviously. Thats why we said "the engine wouldn't hold up very long on 10lbs of boost." And the gen 3 customer is extremely happy and hasn't had any complains. He has put over 4,000 miles on it.
Busa's are strong engines, however to get to 10psi, you would at least have to put in a Cometic Spacer to lower compression. Beyond 9-10psi fuel pump injectors, rods, pistons etc are going to be required.
How much do u charge to do one kit and labor
In and out the door the package is $11,500
Not Worth $11,500.
@dpooo4304 yup not worth 11.500. I rather just buy a H2. Flash ecu and put H2R cams in and make 330hp
@@dpooo4304 Includes MaxxECU Plug and Play kit for full control of engine functions.
@iginogasparini3369 oh yeah, a H2. Already $15,000 more than a Hayabusa, then 330 HP in there with engine work, youll need a new engine every 5000km. A valve adjustment every 1000km. And about another $8000into it for the cams and a pipe and ecu work. And good luck getting parts and service done when something breaks. You're talking pure fairy tail land shit. The hayabusa is the way to go all day long.
You missed a couple of the umms
road worthy, emissions, consumption? or just a drag race toy?
100% Streetbike. Bike is ready for a long road trip, perfect bike to take to the drag strip on the weekend
Would this be a good beginner bike for me? 😂
It took me so long to stop saying "umm" when making videos!
10Lb of Boost will blow that motor without a head spacer to lower compression. Luckily for the customer he is likely not using the power that much and getting away with it. This bike puts out 12.5/1, you need to be in the 9's. Maybe thats not in the instructions :) Even RCC states that without a spacer max boost is 4psi. This is so low that you are hardly even using the turbo. And its sooooo easy to jump past that. This is a fact.
This build with the stock engine uses a 4 pound wastegate spring. Perfectly safe and reliable. Lots of additional engine build info here - store.schnitzracing.com/suzuki-hayabusa-turbo-engine-upgrade-list/
Way to fast and not enough explained not enough pictures of fitting jobs done when finished really not enough information. BUT and its a big but other than what i have said ABSOLUTELY A GREAT VIDEO and thank you for taking your time to do what you did do great end result fair play to you from Ireland, just a little fast not enough but enough to understand 👏 😀 again lovely job unbeatable end result.. wife would come out asking when your sitting on the MA chine, will you get me a bottle of mike when you reply IM BACK 😅
Yeah, we are not in the video production business. We like to build fast bikes quickly so our customers can enjoy them. Not much time for editing and producing, but we did want to show how easy it was to install a turbo kit we offer.
If you cant do this without a video please do yourself a favor and take it to a shop lol.
An installation like this is going to kill your engine. Ask Yammy Noob, it killed his. RCC is the only company I know that says the engine does not need to come out for the cometic spacer to lower compression. The Gen3 is 12.5 compression ratio, way too high for this kind of kit. Thats also why on the RCC site they say that their Stage1 can not go over 4psi which is so low as to hardly utilize a turbo. Turbos Hayabusa's all need a cometic spacers to get horsepower safely. This turbo is going to at best be capable of 230hp and if it goes over this it will blow. So put the spacer in and SAVE your engine. This video is made to make the turbo look so easy to sell turbos, but no turbo is this easy to install. RCC from my conversations with them will not install a Gen3 turbo without a $3k MaxxECU which makes them a lot more expensive to put a turbo on than a Gen2. Gen2 continues to be the olde school sweetheart for turbo installations, but still as all generations require a compression lowering cometic spacer.
you are wrong my friend :)
@@schnitz_racing Rather than just tell me I am wrong. Why not say WHY I am wrong. I am not wrong. Without the spacer you are limited to 4psi which hardly uses the turbo at all. Why the limitation? Compression is too high at 12:5/1. Further, you are eliminating the oil cooler which is a complete must when the turbo is overheating the oil. So bottom line for $11k you are providing a very very mild turbo that can not be ridden on roads due to overheating. Help your clients out, by saving a ton of money and provide a better solution that will give them a long lasting kit. I think Schnitz should offer ProBoost Turbo kits as an option, using our 25 year experience with a solid setup for a fraction of the price. Offer your clients BOTH options. Talk to us. You are relying on one source too much. hardrider.net Lets dialogue.
You really need to entrust an adult to this sort of work. I wonder what flavour he thought the crayons were today
Hello, Its the "kid" that did this work... even though I am 20. Customer has had bike for 6 months now... couldn't be happier. He has ridden it plenty and no problems. Thanks for your Comment!
To much repeating the same words over and over and over and over.... get the point!
Thanks for the feedback!
@schnitz_racing no prob, I know you can create great content.
Hell no I need 350 or more
350 is very easy to accomplish with upgrades in the motor.