Відео

And a delay box.

Retuning is not required.

Depends on how the tach signal wire (white wire) is connected. If connected to a coil, then it would be 1 pulse per rev. If connected to tach output of an aftermarket ignition (dynatek) it will likely be 2 pulses per rev.

Turbo Kit: store.schnitzracing.com/turbo-kit-stage-1-suzuki-hayabusa-21-24/ ECU Kit: store.schnitzracing.com/maxxecu-sport-plug-and-play-kit-suzuki-gsxr1000-17-25/

Yeah, we are not in the video production business. We like to build fast bikes quickly so our customers can enjoy them. Not much time for editing and producing, but we did want to show how easy it was to install a turbo kit we offer.

If you cant do this without a video please do yourself a favor and take it to a shop lol.

yes i heard they do have add spacer plate as well

You can email trevor@schnitzracing.com for quotes and inquiries.

we absolutly can! You can email trevor@schnitzracing for a quote, or any questions!

Ok lets discuss and keep it honest if people can handle the truth. I would recommend keep the Gen3 stock and buy a Gen2 plus turbo kit and have 2 bikes for a shit load of fun without ruining your Gen3 investment. Why? In this column it was reported that the turbo kit for the gen3 complete was $11k, (which I think is 11k for the RCC kit and 4k MaxxECU - approximate) plus installation. The problem with this is it is a bolt on solution and a spacer is not being added to lower the compression and that is why you can only use 4psi, which is hardly using the turbo at all. On top of this, the RCC kit is not using the oil cooler so this is being pulled, now heating the oil much higher and making this bike not so great for any kind of longer type rides. To pull the motor is a lot of work, but it lowers the compression so you can now begin to USE the turbo up to 8-10psi and now you are using the turbo. We suggest you purchase a Gen2 and have Schnitz purchase a turbo from HardRider Motorcycle (North American Distributor for ProBoost (25yrs building turbos retail price $2699USD plus $500 for a preprogrammed replacement ECU (save $4k on not needing the MaxECU) plus a Cometic spacer gasket $100. The Gen2 is more basic than the Gen3 which has more electronic issues. Bottom line the offering her for a Gen3 turbo is $11k plus tune getting you 4psi because of not spacer and not great with pulled oil cooler. Get Schnitz to order a turbo from hardrider.net and you can buy a Gen2 for $8k, plus turbo for $2699 and you get a bike and a turbo for the same price as the Gen3 as mentioned here. This way you can streetfighter your gen2 and hammer the crap out of it and leave your gen3 investment as a clean stock bike ideal for big highway trips.

You'll need to slide the clutch. You can only really dump the clutch with the addition of a lockup style clutch.

Yes and Yes.

@@schnitz_racing do I have to splice it or can I reroute the plug and play from the annitori to the MSD and then to the ignition coil? I would need your help to know before I install it

@@niranjanrkumar Simply plug the Launch Master harness in between the quick shifter harness and the factory wiring harness. Coil - QS harness - Launch Master harness - Stock harness.

@@schnitz_racing perfect! This helps a ton ! I was in the assumption that I'd need a coil split cable to run them in parallel

Hey! Just another question. With the MSD, do we launch WOT and dump the clutch? Or do we slide normally like we do but WOT? Or do we hold the throttle and increase gradually like a regular hand launch?

Yes, this item is universal and works with any digital ignition system.

350 is very easy to accomplish with upgrades in the motor.

We remove the hose and fitting from the steel lines and add an adaptor to -3an. This allows us to use custom brake lines. Fitting - store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-fitting-steel-brake-male-3-an-to-female-10mm-x-1-0/ Lines - store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-universal-brake-line/ Banjo Fittings - store.schnitzracing.com/brakes/brake-lines-and-fittings

This build with the stock engine uses a 4 pound wastegate spring. Perfectly safe and reliable. Lots of additional engine build info here - store.schnitzracing.com/suzuki-hayabusa-turbo-engine-upgrade-list/

you are wrong my friend :)

@@schnitz_racing Rather than just tell me I am wrong. Why not say WHY I am wrong. I am not wrong. Without the spacer you are limited to 4psi which hardly uses the turbo at all. Why the limitation? Compression is too high at 12:5/1. Further, you are eliminating the oil cooler which is a complete must when the turbo is overheating the oil. So bottom line for $11k you are providing a very very mild turbo that can not be ridden on roads due to overheating. Help your clients out, by saving a ton of money and provide a better solution that will give them a long lasting kit. I think Schnitz should offer ProBoost Turbo kits as an option, using our 25 year experience with a solid setup for a fraction of the price. Offer your clients BOTH options. Talk to us. You are relying on one source too much. hardrider.net Lets dialogue.

Thank you!

100% Streetbike. Bike is ready for a long road trip, perfect bike to take to the drag strip on the weekend

Installation Available! Because of the updated electronics package on the Gen3 Hayabusa, an aftermarket ECU is needed to keep full function of cruise control, traction control, diver modes etc. We offer a plug and play MaxxECU Sport ECU Package and recommend it for use with this turbo kit. Drive in, Drive out price with stage 1 kit and ECU package installation and tuning - $11,750.00 +/- depending on available options.

When the factory oil cooler is removed, the restrictor that helps to push oil to the oil cooler needs to be removed also.

@@schnitz_racing @schnitz_racing Thanks for your response. Does that apply to the Gen 1 Busa as well? Should you remove the 8mm hex bolt from inside the oil filter assembly on a Gen 1 Busa if you deleted the stock oil cooler? When I did my turbo conversion I just re-positioned the oil cooler to the inside right hand side of the stock radiator. Not ideal but it still drops the oil temp enough to make a measurable difference. I might have missed it in your video but what was the reason for removing - rather than (repositioning) - the OEM oil cooler?

@@djmkultra6806 Yes, this applies to all Hayabusa engines with oil coolers removed. The RCC eliminates the oil cooler to allow the front of the bike to be lowered without interference.

@@schnitz_racing Thanks for that. A few more question please . . . . Is the oil filter housing the only place on a Gen 1 that can be used to feed oil to the oil cooler? I remember seeing a Turbo Busa that had its stock oil cooler feed line coming from somewhere down low on the Busa's engine's right side. Did I fail to view/understand that right, or is it possible to feed an oil cooler (located in the standard Gen 1 position and now in front of the turbocharger) on a Gen 1 Busa from other parts of the engine that present the oil at sufficient pressure to allow it to reach the oil cooler? What I mean is, if I purchased an oil cooler radiator that could be located in front of the Busa's standard radiator, but also high up in front of the standard radiator, so (it doesn't scrape the front tire and the turbocharger is not shrouded by the oil cooler and is therefore exposed to a clear and clean/cold air flow, and) that only about 1/3rd of the air/water radiator's front surface is covered, could I still feed that oil cooler (which is considerably raised up from the where the stock oil cooler is usually mounted) from the oil feed line located at the oil filter housing? I mean would there be enough oil pressure (from the oil filter housing and/or from another location on the engine) to push the oil through the relocated/risen oil cooler? Or, could the oil cooler be fed from another oil outlet on the engine which has sufficient pressure? And if so where? If there is not enough oil pressure from the oil filter housing and/or any other part of the engine to feed the raised oil cooler, then if I suggested I could use an external oil pump to generate enough pressure to push the oil up to the higher oil cooler, would you recommend that? Sorry, about the long post and all the questions but even though I have had my turbo Busa for almost 20 years there's not a great deal of people that know about turbo Busa's where I come from.

@@djmkultra6806 The engine will have no problem pumping oil to an oil cooler mounted at the front, top, bottom or under the radiator.

ello! When you purchase an exhaust, we highly recommend an ECU reflash with an adjusted fuel table for optimal performance. While replacing your air filter isn’t necessary, upgrading to a Sprint air filter can give you an additional 1-2 horsepower. You can find all these products at www.schnitzracing.com If you have any questions, feel free to email Trevor at trevor@schnitzracing.com.

Thanks bro .. could you inform me from where you got those grips pads on the fuel tank? ​@@schnitz_racing

Hello, Its the "kid" that did this work... even though I am 20. Customer has had bike for 6 months now... couldn't be happier. He has ridden it plenty and no problems. Thanks for your Comment!

Maybe for a little while.. We don't push more than 4-5 psi on a stock engine. We do have an engine build list with links to all parts here:store.schnitzracing.com/suzuki-hayabusa-turbo-engine-upgrade-list/

Gen 1 can do 350 hp on stock every thing

@@legendary_perfomance negative

Yeah for a couple passes lol

Tank grips, there for your knees to grip

@@tobyc0339 duh, I'm asking brand...

@@tobyc0339 ..... I was asking what brand genius....

@@ChristopherHelms-n9i no reason to be rude man, maybe ask what brand of you want to know what the brand is, the way you worded it made it seem like you weren't sure if they were tank pads/grips

Full system the slip on is a shorty instead of a can.

Yes they do!

The engine wouldn't hold up very long on 10lbs of boost, the pistons and valve springs being the weak spot. However 10lbs of boost would make close to 340-360 hp if we had to guess.

Not in a million years without lowering the compression with a cometic spacer.

@@hardridermotorcycle obviously. Thats why we said "the engine wouldn't hold up very long on 10lbs of boost." And the gen 3 customer is extremely happy and hasn't had any complains. He has put over 4,000 miles on it.

Busa's are strong engines, however to get to 10psi, you would at least have to put in a Cometic Spacer to lower compression. Beyond 9-10psi fuel pump injectors, rods, pistons etc are going to be required.