Thank you so much for all of the great information. I have been tinkering with RC cars for many years, but drag racing is a new game to me. Your explanations have been a great tool to getting a car set up....Please keep up the good work.
Superb Explanation. Not just for myself, but for all the upcoming RC Drag addicts out here. Been dragging full size cars for years now, and although I get the tech side of whats going on underneath > Ive always had suspension help while I focus on engine power. I just bought a Losi No Prep > and I learned a TON tonight. Im the only mechanic now when it comes to local RC drags. Thnx Bro! Subscribed
Much appreciated!! There's a lot of people with a lot more knowledge than me when it comes to this stuff but I just wanted to share what I know and what has worked for me. Good Luck!!
Good video. Im in the midst of doing a full suspension rebuild for my slash. I just did the rear shocks today and decided to go with the 100 wt oil. On the front I’m thinking of doing a 30w to give it the slightest amount of resistance during transfer. Then it’ll be on to vertical shock relocators and front and rear sway bar kit. Between me having soft, medium, and hard sway bars along with threaded shocks and a variety of oils to go with, I should have all the right parts to tune my suspension. Well besides the experience🤣
Thanks!! 30wt should work well in the front depending on your weight setup. Don't worry about lack of experience, trying is how you learn, its how I learned. I'm still learning.
Awesome man! I've never tried any drag racing with a 4wd vehicle so I don't know for sure how those guys setup suspension but I know you'll get better traction so keep that in mind when tuning!
I run my proline pro specs with a hundred weight oil and run the stock proline springs.i run the front soft.so my setup is just like the way you have yours.when the tires are hot enough she goes nice and straight.the only difference I run 60w up front.mine doesn’t like anything lighter.I’m running the 22s roller.I agree with what your talking about.i have done a ton of testing and tuning.👍
I 3d printed these myself but I've seem them available online as well. As for any noticeable changes, I can't say for sure. I haven't run any since swapping to the DR10M and can't really say I've noticed less down force than I had with the old car when running them
Great info! Thank you. Would you consider making a video that talks about the set up of the car? Castor, camber, toe in/out front and rear? What works, what doesn’t.
I did cover that a little in my setup video but honestly I'm not the most knowledgeable on that stuff. I used some basic information I found online to setup my car but would need to learn some more myself before I would be comfortable making a video on it.
I currently run 1mil wt fluid in the diff. I have no experience with a 4wd car for the street like this so I can't say for sure but I would assume that it would be similar. You still want weight to transfer at the end of the day but you don't want it all to transfer too quickly
The side plates are something I designed and 3d printed based off of a bunch of other one's I'd seen online. You can search up Aero Plates or Side Dams and you should find some that are available for sale.
The real reason you want the rear to be stiff is to put more force on the rear tires (not to slow transfer). A soft suspension does transfer more weight but it also soaks up the weight transfer to the tire. That is why it's better to use your front suspension for transfer - or have weight already on the rear. another great way to transfer a lot of weight (without using a lot of weight) is actually putting the weight high (this is the reason trucks like the stampede wheelie so easy with little power). Same reason old gasser drag cars wheelie with old crappy tires.
To me, to put more force on the rear tires we need to transfer the weight back there. Which is why I run a soft or loose front like you said to let it transfer quickly. But we don't want it hitting too quickly or we hit the wheelie bars too hard. I would definitely not put any weight up high on a drag car hahah. Might work to do wheelies in a stampede but will not help when you're pushing higher speeds on the drag strip 😁😁
stiff front suspension with only 1/4 inch of travel helps with chassis roll when the car comes back down or when you make a steering correction 100wt oil also
Yea that does help stiffen up that front but I would rather sacrifice that and keep the soft front so that I keep getting the weight transfer I am now.
@@FullThrottleRC makes sense. I was going to 3d print a mount for vertical mounting but after watching your video and softening the front really made difference.
@@paulvandyke7967 I didn't know there was a race on the 8th. I'd love to but I don't think I should as my parents just tested positive for covid so I probably shouldn't get out.
@@FullThrottleRC that sucks, but yes there is a race on the 8th at Nola motorsports with multiple classes (outlaw, 13.5, box stock etc) with a buy in. And another cash days style race on the 22nd in Covington. Join the 985 Hit squad page on Facebook, or dirty south RC. They post race fliers on those pages a lot.
Are you referring to the 3d printed side plates I made on the chassis? I found the car was trying to basically come off the ground on the top end at speed so I wanted to try something like that. It seems to help keep the car planted
Hey im just getting into something similar to drag racing sct. My idea is building a sct for high top speed, not focusing on racing. So if tune suspension properly, use street tires (not drag tires) could i skip the wheelie bar if I ease into the throttle( 2 wd 1/10 brushless
I would think so. But also keep in mind as the car gains speed you'll need really good aero to keep it planted. If it's trying to take flight in the run as you get to higher speeds, a wheelie bar might help keep the front end down
I've only even thrown one tire off. You can see it in a video on my channel. And I believe that was because the 3d printed tire band I was using came apart. With true belted tires I haven't had any trouble with them up to 63 mph now.
@@FullThrottleRC i’m going to try with the pro lines extra blue see what happen thanks again for all your info stay away from simple green you can do it make sure you clean 100% we break cleaner simple green only to soft the compound no to run
also another trick just like a real drag car I use the wheelie bar to control my tire and suspension squat.. I also run 100wt oil in front and rear shocks and my 22s is running 2.3's and 57 to 60 mph ish thanks cool vids man. oh and my losi weighs 6lbs 9 oz... shes a pig lol.
Great video I am going to try some of your tips very new to RC drag racing I'm more of an oval racer what size limiters do you have on front is my question ❓
@@FullThrottleRCI just left HobbyTown and picked up a no prep Losi car I know you had the team associated and I'm usually associated kind of person I just didn't like the body it came with and I kind of did it backwards I bought all the upgrades for the 22 losi then I bought the car
I've been using the Graupner X8E. I picked it up for the start function before the newer ESCs started having launch control built in them. It's still a great radio though.
awesome video thank you for taking the time!!. I love your wheelie bar, I want to copy that for dr10 can you please lead me in the right direction? id appreciate it!! its the best one I have seen.
Very useful video but in my opinion should have included the corner weights on the car. The weight of the car, the weight balance of the car, and the traction of the surface you run on all determine what spring rate you should be using. On a terrible asphalt surface I have to run a 30 weight shock fluid on stock losi springs because the surface is poor and the weight balance of my car is 45/55, but still will run a 1.95
Absolutely. Many things go into suspension with these cars. And no two cars are alike, and like you said, the surface plays a huge part in it. That's sort of why I only went so far into detail because what works for my car and where I run won't work for everyone. I hoped that the video could help people understand suspension a little more though and what I look at when tuning
Thank You! I would say the rear of my car is setup to squat but not a whole lot, its close to neutral. The goal is weight transfer so the back end squats slightly to allow that weight to transfer to the back tires.
This set -up will probably help some people get started but the soft front set up never worked for me. As of now on a Traxxas based mid motor I’m running 80 in the rear shocks (gtr ) 60 in the fronts. (Ultra shock) . With the soft front set up you might find you are transferring to fast & slamming the bar off the ground causing the rear tires to hop/spin. To counter act that go to a heavier oil & add a few Oz. Of weight on the nose.
Yep that's exactly right! For the way my car is setup, the super soft front has been perfect. But if it was hitting the bars too hard, I could easily go to a little heavier weight oil to fix that!
Thanks and good eye! If I remember correctly I was waiting for a new spur gear to come in and decided to do a complete refresh on the car in the meantime. I actually still had a slipper clutch in this video which I don't run anymore
Details and useful information are so rare (Thanks). I finally have a better understanding of weight transfer and its importance. The wheelie bar point was dead on also because I've been fighting my car leaving and spinning out hard to the left. Someone caught it and said your wheelie bar is hitting unbalance and it's unloading hard on one side. The wheelie bar had too much play in it so I replaced the wheelie bar mount with a metal one. Question is a single-wheelie bar better to stop it from steering the car like a duel wheel wheelie bar?
I do think there is some advantages to running a single wheel bar. But I haven't made that jump yet cause I also believe in having the wheelie bar steer the car for the first few feet when the front wheels are off the ground. If you only have one wheel, you can't necessarily control that.
I haven't really experienced that. The front end stays up for the beginning of the pass and then settles down towards the end. If the aero is working to keep the car planted like it should, the nose is just pushed down. I've found my car has been really steady down track lately.
❤ this is the best video on suspension no prep
Thank you so much for all of the great information. I have been tinkering with RC cars for many years, but drag racing is a new game to me. Your explanations have been a great tool to getting a car set up....Please keep up the good work.
Thank you so much. Comments like this mean the world to me!!!
Superb Explanation. Not just for myself, but for all the upcoming RC Drag addicts out here. Been dragging full size cars for years now, and although I get the tech side of whats going on underneath > Ive always had suspension help while I focus on engine power. I just bought a Losi No Prep > and I learned a TON tonight. Im the only mechanic now when it comes to local RC drags. Thnx Bro! Subscribed
Much appreciated!! There's a lot of people with a lot more knowledge than me when it comes to this stuff but I just wanted to share what I know and what has worked for me. Good Luck!!
Perfect video for someone just getting started. Thanks
Thank you!!🙏
I like your videos due to the fact that I'm just getting into this sport thank you for your support
Thanks for the support! I'm happy I can help people in any way
Cool video. A lot of good tips and pointers. Keep up with the good work. Keep
Making videos. Thanks
Thank you! Appreciate it!
AWESOME VIDEO MY BROTHER!!! GOD BLESS ✝️✝️✝️
Thank You!!
Good video. Im in the midst of doing a full suspension rebuild for my slash. I just did the rear shocks today and decided to go with the 100 wt oil. On the front I’m thinking of doing a 30w to give it the slightest amount of resistance during transfer. Then it’ll be on to vertical shock relocators and front and rear sway bar kit. Between me having soft, medium, and hard sway bars along with threaded shocks and a variety of oils to go with, I should have all the right parts to tune my suspension. Well besides the experience🤣
Thanks!! 30wt should work well in the front depending on your weight setup. Don't worry about lack of experience, trying is how you learn, its how I learned. I'm still learning.
Setting up my 4x4 rustler for no prep starting here with your pointers on suspension and I’ll make adjustments after some test runs
Awesome man! I've never tried any drag racing with a 4wd vehicle so I don't know for sure how those guys setup suspension but I know you'll get better traction so keep that in mind when tuning!
I run my proline pro specs with a hundred weight oil and run the stock proline springs.i run the front soft.so my setup is just like the way you have yours.when the tires are hot enough she goes nice and straight.the only difference I run 60w up front.mine doesn’t like anything lighter.I’m running the 22s roller.I agree with what your talking about.i have done a ton of testing and tuning.👍
Thank you. Yep, I've found my car likes a really soft and reacting front to help that weight transfer perfectly
That all helped alot for some running on my slash Drag
Awesome! Glad our videos could help
Where did you get the chassis side air foils? AND, do they actually work? Any noticable down force?
I 3d printed these myself but I've seem them available online as well. As for any noticeable changes, I can't say for sure. I haven't run any since swapping to the DR10M and can't really say I've noticed less down force than I had with the old car when running them
Great info! Thank you. Would you consider making a video that talks about the set up of the car? Castor, camber, toe in/out front and rear? What works, what doesn’t.
I did cover that a little in my setup video but honestly I'm not the most knowledgeable on that stuff. I used some basic information I found online to setup my car but would need to learn some more myself before I would be comfortable making a video on it.
@@FullThrottleRC cool, I’ll check that video out. Thanks
good info. even though mine will be a traxxas car, I will probably use a lot of these for mine
Thanks! The chassis may be different but the concept is still the same.
Great video
Thank You!!
What rims you running back and front ... great looking setup 👌
Proline Split Six in the rear. Pomonas in the front. Thank you!!
What shocks are you running? Nice video too
Currently I run the factory shocks from the DR10M. On my old car I ran B5M front shocks on all 4 corners
Kindly, what about the diff fluid?
I have a 4wd Limitless, do think I still have yo make the suspension harder at the back or it is a different story?
I currently run 1mil wt fluid in the diff.
I have no experience with a 4wd car for the street like this so I can't say for sure but I would assume that it would be similar. You still want weight to transfer at the end of the day but you don't want it all to transfer too quickly
@FullThrottleRC I will try and see the difference!
Thanks
what chassis is this built on? I am just getting into the hobby and i enjoy these videos alot.
This car was an Associated SC5M. I currently have a DR10M
I'm a bit late to the party but nice video,worth watching for sure.
Thank you, appreciate the support!
Im running a b6.3 what are my options for locked rear diff
I believe a few companies make a locker for that diff. If you can't find one though you could always go with epoxy or putty
Where did you get those side ponds for the frame?
The side plates are something I designed and 3d printed based off of a bunch of other one's I'd seen online. You can search up Aero Plates or Side Dams and you should find some that are available for sale.
The real reason you want the rear to be stiff is to put more force on the rear tires (not to slow transfer). A soft suspension does transfer more weight but it also soaks up the weight transfer to the tire. That is why it's better to use your front suspension for transfer - or have weight already on the rear. another great way to transfer a lot of weight (without using a lot of weight) is actually putting the weight high (this is the reason trucks like the stampede wheelie so easy with little power). Same reason old gasser drag cars wheelie with old crappy tires.
To me, to put more force on the rear tires we need to transfer the weight back there. Which is why I run a soft or loose front like you said to let it transfer quickly. But we don't want it hitting too quickly or we hit the wheelie bars too hard. I would definitely not put any weight up high on a drag car hahah. Might work to do wheelies in a stampede but will not help when you're pushing higher speeds on the drag strip 😁😁
Great info is there a video on how you made your wheelie bars???
I sure do have a video on it!! Check out my channel, I have a playlist dedicated to all of my drag racing videos
Do ypu have a part number for the b5m shocks
#91496
Good information. Where did you get the bead locks from
Thanks! The wheels are proline split six and I 3d print the beadlock rings
stiff front suspension with only 1/4 inch of travel helps with chassis roll when the car comes back down or when you make a steering correction 100wt oil also
Yea that does help stiffen up that front but I would rather sacrifice that and keep the soft front so that I keep getting the weight transfer I am now.
Thanks.
So would we benefit if the front shock location was vertical vs passive?
I've thought about this and I honestly think that the difference you'd see is so minor, you might not actually see it.
@@FullThrottleRC makes sense. I was going to 3d print a mount for vertical mounting but after watching your video and softening the front really made difference.
Got that Houma type accent going....I'm on the Northshore. Just getting into the drag racing scene, coming from Nitro Buggies in the past.
Not too far away from Houma! Drag racing has been a blast for me!
@@FullThrottleRC Are you going to the race at Nola Motorsports on the 8th?
@@paulvandyke7967 I didn't know there was a race on the 8th. I'd love to but I don't think I should as my parents just tested positive for covid so I probably shouldn't get out.
@@FullThrottleRC that sucks, but yes there is a race on the 8th at Nola motorsports with multiple classes (outlaw, 13.5, box stock etc) with a buy in. And another cash days style race on the 22nd in Covington. Join the 985 Hit squad page on Facebook, or dirty south RC. They post race fliers on those pages a lot.
@@FullThrottleRC going to pick up a maclan esc and motor setup next week for the 22nd race, time to turn this DR10 to another notch
Do the GROUND EFFECTS wings really help much ???
Are you referring to the 3d printed side plates I made on the chassis? I found the car was trying to basically come off the ground on the top end at speed so I wanted to try something like that. It seems to help keep the car planted
Hey im just getting into something similar to drag racing sct. My idea is building a sct for high top speed, not focusing on racing. So if tune suspension properly, use street tires (not drag tires) could i skip the wheelie bar if I ease into the throttle( 2 wd 1/10 brushless
I would think so. But also keep in mind as the car gains speed you'll need really good aero to keep it planted. If it's trying to take flight in the run as you get to higher speeds, a wheelie bar might help keep the front end down
Great video brother.
Thanks! Appreciate it!👍
Hey my friend good info💪👍 Does prolineSplit Six Bead-Lock on the rear it work for you and never throw the tires out?
I've only even thrown one tire off. You can see it in a video on my channel. And I believe that was because the 3d printed tire band I was using came apart. With true belted tires I haven't had any trouble with them up to 63 mph now.
@@FullThrottleRC ok thanks for the info That glue can be messy sometimes Lol
@@FullThrottleRC i’m going to try with the pro lines extra blue see what happen thanks again for all your info stay away from simple green you can do it make sure you clean 100% we break cleaner simple green only to soft the compound no to run
also another trick just like a real drag car I use the wheelie bar to control my tire and suspension squat.. I also run 100wt oil in front and rear shocks and my 22s is running 2.3's and 57 to 60 mph ish thanks cool vids man. oh and my losi weighs 6lbs 9 oz... shes a pig lol.
Oh wow, that's a heavy drag car!
Great video I am going to try some of your tips very new to RC drag racing I'm more of an oval racer what size limiters do you have on front is my question ❓
Thanks!! My limiters are about 3/8" long. Just some fuel tubing I cut to the length I wanted.
@@FullThrottleRCI just left HobbyTown and picked up a no prep Losi car I know you had the team associated and I'm usually associated kind of person I just didn't like the body it came with and I kind of did it backwards I bought all the upgrades for the 22 losi then I bought the car
@@FullThrottleRC by the way I did like comment and subscribed to your channel
What radio do u use? Im torn between a sanwa m17 and futaba 7px
I've been using the Graupner X8E. I picked it up for the start function before the newer ESCs started having launch control built in them. It's still a great radio though.
Hey I heard you mentioned you run front shocks all the way around, what length shocks are you running?
I'm pretty sure they're 23mm long. B5M front shocks
What wheelie bar are you using? I have a sc5m and can't find the right wheelie bar anywhere.
This is a custom wheelie bar I built myself. All you need is a mount though and can run whatever wheelie bar you want
Great video 👍🏽 🇫🇷
Thanks!!
awesome video thank you for taking the time!!. I love your wheelie bar, I want to copy that for dr10 can you please lead me in the right direction? id appreciate it!! its the best one I have seen.
Thank you!!! Here's a link to the video where I built it if you are interested!
ua-cam.com/video/U8NF-knJEOU/v-deo.html
With my car I’ve tuned my shocks really odd and I don’t use a sway bar it hits hard n straight good video
Hey if you can get the car to launch straight without a sway bar, props to you! My car wouldn't go straight at all. Thanks!
Very useful video but in my opinion should have included the corner weights on the car. The weight of the car, the weight balance of the car, and the traction of the surface you run on all determine what spring rate you should be using. On a terrible asphalt surface I have to run a 30 weight shock fluid on stock losi springs because the surface is poor and the weight balance of my car is 45/55, but still will run a 1.95
Absolutely. Many things go into suspension with these cars. And no two cars are alike, and like you said, the surface plays a huge part in it. That's sort of why I only went so far into detail because what works for my car and where I run won't work for everyone. I hoped that the video could help people understand suspension a little more though and what I look at when tuning
Did we eliminate engine mount twist yet?
Haven't found a good place to mount a brace yet. I do plan to find something one day though.
Good video I differ on my front suspension setup. I may have missed it but are you running squat or separation or neutral in the rear
Thank You! I would say the rear of my car is setup to squat but not a whole lot, its close to neutral. The goal is weight transfer so the back end squats slightly to allow that weight to transfer to the back tires.
@@FullThrottleRC okay I didn't know if you were manipulating it with the hinge pin location
do you have pills in the rear not sure how to setup mine
Not really sure what you mean by pills, so I'm assuming I don't haha
What kind of chassis is this
@@djmeeklove9987 in this video I was still running an SC5M chassis with B5M arms
@@FullThrottleRC Thanks.... I ordered the Traxxs chassis in black this weekend
So how's the car run today? still tunning my dr10. good videos,keep going
Running well, making progress. You can see some more clips in my recent videos. Planning on running some more soon.
The amount of twist and gyro action going on will turn the car inside out..
so a stiffer suspension will combat that twist.
Where u get those extenders from
I made them myself
Where can I get air dams like that?
I 3d printed these myself but I've seen a bunch on eBay.
@@FullThrottleRC Do you think they give fair amount of downforce?
@@ellisb1451 I think they've helped keep the car stable down track
This set -up will probably help some people get started but the soft front set up never worked for me. As of now on a Traxxas based mid motor I’m running 80 in the rear shocks (gtr ) 60 in the fronts. (Ultra shock) . With the soft front set up you might find you are transferring to fast & slamming the bar off the ground causing the rear tires to hop/spin. To counter act that go to a heavier oil & add a few Oz. Of weight on the nose.
Yep that's exactly right! For the way my car is setup, the super soft front has been perfect. But if it was hitting the bars too hard, I could easily go to a little heavier weight oil to fix that!
Good video. But let's talk about that spur gear😂
Thanks and good eye! If I remember correctly I was waiting for a new spur gear to come in and decided to do a complete refresh on the car in the meantime. I actually still had a slipper clutch in this video which I don't run anymore
What shocks are you using
Are they the proline pro spec short course fronts? Great video btw clears all this up for me
Associated B5M front shocks all around
@@FullThrottleRC What type of springs are you using ?
@@butchdory5611 I run buggy shocks, white in the front and purple in the rear.
I run 2k diff fluid in my rear shocks and 1k in the front…
Oh wow that's really thick! I haven't even been close to that.
@@FullThrottleRC you’d be surprised at the performance difference though…
@@CoachD386What springs do you run with that setup?
are you in Louisiana?
Yep, I am!
me too...thought I recognized that accent...I am north of Alexandria...love your channel...@@FullThrottleRC
Details and useful information are so rare (Thanks). I finally have a better understanding of weight transfer and its importance. The wheelie bar point was dead on also because I've been fighting my car leaving and spinning out hard to the left. Someone caught it and said your wheelie bar is hitting unbalance and it's unloading hard on one side. The wheelie bar had too much play in it so I replaced the wheelie bar mount with a metal one. Question is a single-wheelie bar better to stop it from steering the car like a duel wheel wheelie bar?
I do think there is some advantages to running a single wheel bar. But I haven't made that jump yet cause I also believe in having the wheelie bar steer the car for the first few feet when the front wheels are off the ground. If you only have one wheel, you can't necessarily control that.
👊🍎
👍🏻👍🏻
Louisiana Boy?
Sure am!
Breh. Lafayette?
Nope. A little more south
Hello 👋
Hi!
Soft front suspension will make your car unpredictable when aerodynamics start to kick in.
I haven't really experienced that. The front end stays up for the beginning of the pass and then settles down towards the end. If the aero is working to keep the car planted like it should, the nose is just pushed down. I've found my car has been really steady down track lately.
what is your thingverse link?
Not sure what you're looking for specifically, but here's the link to all my designs on thingiverse.
www.thingiverse.com/ftrc/designs
@@FullThrottleRC that was it
What’s your length on those shocks from the ear hole to the other ear hole on the shocks