Quick Build for a Perfect Router Dado Jig to make Dado Joints
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2020
- Shelving units never go out of style so many woodworkers make their own by using evenly spaced dados to hold the shelves in place and making a very sturdy shelving unit or bookcase that can often be handed down for generations. In this video, we'll show you how to cut dados with a router jig. This dado jig for router, will allow you to make good quality dado cuts, is easy to make, and will deliver perfect fit dados for your shelves and give years of use and can be made very quickly.
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Just the advice of not using the flat side of the router was worth the price of admission! Thanks Colin!!!
You must have read my mind, exactly what I need for a project I'm doing soon, explained in such a clear and concise manner, Colin you're an excellent teacher, very appreciated
Mr Knecht, you have such a humble manner that sets perfectly over the top of your incredible mastery. Your generous insights and information are more than enough to keep coming back for, but the way you make things simple and seem to be inviting us all into your shop and into this work - it's a gift. Sometimes I come watch your vidoes when I'm just in a mood and need to calm down. I reckon you're filling in as an internet "dad" for a lot of us lol. Thank you for all your work to share with us folks out here that you don't even know.
I have never tried to do the plunge cut to hide the joint, that looks really good - I will have to try that!
Thanks!
I've seen a similar jig before for when you have a bit that exactly matches the dado width, but the idea of using the two cutoff strips for your bit width and dado width is new to me and really clever.
Makes perfect sense to me. Much easier than some of the other jigs I’ve seen where you need a flush cut router bit and you go between two guides.
So many people make this complicated, you make sense. Thank you for this.
Use instructions: Mark the center line of your shelf. To use the jig put the flap down and align its edge with the center line of your shelf. Select: 1) the bit, 2) the same width strip, 3) the strip that is the same thickness as your shelf. Flap up, add the strip that is the same width as your bit. Rout. Replace strip with the strip the same thickness as your shelf. Route. Done.
If you take a close look, you'll see the line he drew, doesn't end up being the middle line of the shelf...
@@jorgeconcheyro to me the line he draw represents edge of the cut using 3/8 bit (first path). The real position of the shelf edge is moved from that line mark in a distance 1/2"(shelf thickness)-3/8"(router bit)=1/8".
Usage of that Router Dado Jig is about repeatability and accuracy of the joint.
Exact position is secondary importance.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
@@jorgeconcheyro Force Perspective
Thanks for making the video Colin.
I was trying to see the method in the madness at first, then the light bulb came with the summary at the end.
Great idea for repetitive cuts.
Thanks, Colin. An excellent tip, especially for those of us not blessed with a dado stack.
I bought the Bosch OFA 32 kit, it is meant for shelfpin holes etc but it is amazing for dados too.
I think it is available in the US too
This is great thx! I especially like your tip about using the “round part” of the router base; very helpful!
Hi Colin, thanks for always sharing. Wanted to let you know that I have gained so much by watching your videos and I always check your collections anytime I need to make some jig, and I have not been disappointed. You alongside other world acclaimed carpenters are making those of us that are rookies learn a lot. I will build this jig, that is for sure.
Colin coming in with another phenomenal trick to add to the shop
Great idea and video. I made one similar, the flip portion is used to align the centerline of the router, having marked the center lines of all shelves. The size of the bit does not matter as the guide is built to the centerline of the router base. I like the idea of the square block on the bottom! I’m going to add that to mine. Thanks for all your videos!
Jim Holtman
I like the idea of using the material that is going in the dado as the thickness offset. This way your dado will always be exactly the right width no matter what material you use.
I will be doing this very soon. I think I'm going to make the jig 24" long for the first one, then I'll probably end up needing a 36" one at some point also.
Thanks for this tip.
This is a great idea and it looks somewhat easy to make. From the way you explained it, I think I'll try it.
im really new to wood working and i had no problem following what was said. this is very useful!!!!
Tamara of 3x3 Custom has a similar jig for a trim router which is worth checking out. I made her version of the jig which was easy to make and use
ncgr45e I think she did a much clearer job of explaining how it works too.
Ha ha I did exactly the same 👍
I really enjoy all of your presentations. They are very neat and easy to follow. I love working with wood.
Thanks Colin, I always enjoy learning mew techniques from you. 👍🏾👍🏾
Hi ,Colin,thank’s for this tricks ,Best regards from France.
Elegantly simple and I’ve no idea why people find this hard to understand how it works? Also in the UK most carpenters use routers for dados as using a dado stack in a table saw is frowned upon and potentially dangerous. Correct tool for the job is always a good plan. Having worked in a school DT workshop and watched as children try and screw a screw in with a chisel I guess anything is possible! Great series of videos Colin well explained (even if you have to watch twice sometimes) thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the knowledge on how to make my own Router Dado Jig , Sir !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Excellent, simpler than what I've been using
I normally love your videos, but this one is hard to follow. I am having trouble getting it to make sense to me.
I agree that was a tough video to follow
Me too !
11:00-11:26 sums it up nicely.
Have to agree, this one needed a more "for dummies" approach.
It took me a minute to wrap my brain around the "sizing stick" idea. I was thinking, why not just run the router directly against the jig? I think the design is brilliant but subtle. When you use the sizing stick you take into account the thickness of the router bit. That thickness is basically subtracted from the size of the next cut which gives you your final width. Really looking forward to implementing this approach on my next build. Thanks! And if I'm dead wrong in explanation, let me know. I love to learn from my failures.
thanks for sharing your vedio
Very Nice !
I just had an ah ha moment, love your videos they are very helpful for someone like me that likes to tinker and loves tools
Unlike the last 2 comments, I found this video easy to follow, butt unless I was making a lot of dado slots, the jig is extra work. I like the video you did back in March. Similar , but no jig.
I like how the second strip will compensate for any width deviation of the piece that will fit into the dado.
Thanks! Great idea😉
Thank you for the option, like your videos
I think the confusing part was when you added the 3/8th inch strip to compensate for the router bit width and make your jig too universal, a jig is usually made to make the current job easier.
If you skip the first strip and build the jig the same way, you can cut the flip board, so it aligns with the bottom of the shelf and make life a whole lot easier. Label the jig 3/8ths and make new jig if you feel you need to use a different size router bit.
Best teacher on the internet at this time, thank you for sharing your great knowledge with others, we appreciate the calm and detailed way of your videos. The other videos are very fast and you cannot retain what they are trying to teach.
Thank you colin
Clever jig. The confusion expressed by some viewers reminds me of trying to explain (and remember) what angle a chop saw us actually cutting. Oh well. With respect to the use of the flat side, I have had several routers which did not have the bit precisely centered on the round base plate. As a result, I always try to keep the router orientation unchanged with respect to a straight-edge guide.
Thanks! Im gonna make it!
Really super watching this. Thanks
Awesome I love watching your stuff
Great video again Colin.
Hi Colin. Amazing stuff. Cheers! 👍👌🇬🇧
Muito bom esse gabarito valeu amigo parabéns
Nice idea
Quite complicated, but helpful if the dado requires multiple cuts. Thanks.
Colin is showing how to create the jig in the first part. In doing so, his method using the two spacers, lets you accurately find the center of the cut line of the router once the flap is put on your cutting line. It’s based off of your specific router and the centerline of it.
The reason you want to use spacers for the setup when actually cutting dados is you should never cut a full dado with the same size router bit as the dado. You take smaller cuts and offset it with the spacer strips to get to your desired dado size.
The veneer is there only when initially making the jig, to give the flap space when installing the hinges. So like he said, any sawdust trapped between has a place to go.
Love your videos
Cool idea but I don't really get how it works.
It's simply a straight edge rail for making a dado with a router. The part that folds down is just so you can line it up before clamping it down. You could accomplish the same thing with a straight edge and a couple clamps. I guess if you were doing 100 dados in a row, it would be useful, but for one dado it sort of seems like overkill.
@@jimthesoundman8641 makes sense. Thanks!
Colin, thanks for another way of making dados. I think I much prefer using one of those adjustable jigs which clamp around the shelf to determine dado width and uses a pattern bit to route it.
I'm confused. Got to make one of these and play with it. There is a 3/8" strip and a 3/4" strip and a half inch strip and some veneer. What happened to the thickness of the veneer? Why are we working to the center of the shelf or are we? Does the shelf dado fall on the centerline or on the pencil line? My head hurts.
@@mikehickman4350 On the first pass, I think the spacer stick makes the bit cut on the far side of the line (away from the jig). That's why he used a 3/8" spacer with the 3/8" bit. At least, that's how I understood it.
I had the same questions. A sketch would have been really helpful.
@@michaelwarren2391 The other Mike was describing when he made the jig. When he completed the jig, he sized the flap to fall between the 3/8 and the 3/4. Once assembled, the bit falls on the close side of the line . The *spacer* then puts you on the other side of the line, yes
Pretty interesting jig, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Router is s great machine...nice video
Wow!!
Sorry Colin but I agree with some of the other comments about how vague this video is at explaining exactly what it is that you are doing. Why not just use the proper bit size in the first place & just measure off the distance to the center point of the router bit. Then all you have to do is use a straight edge at the proper distance, clamp it down, and make the cut. Seems rather easy to me........ ❔❔❔❔
It took me a lot of comment reading before I finally found someone who was wondering the same thing. Why not use a 3/4" bit???
Great video Colin; thanks! It would make more sense to me to have a jig where I could line the edge up to my cut line, then depend on the dado being to the left or right of the cut line. This jig is high precision (the dado width is perfect) but not accurate ( no telling where the dado is with respect to my cut line). I like the design because it is not dependent on one size router bit.
been following you for years Colin,,, can you share with us, When is the correct time to use the flat side of the router? If never, why is it there for? Thanks
Pretty slick, thanks Colin!
So, let me get this straight so I am sure I understand: If I am only EVER going to use a 6mm straight router-bit to cut dados with this jig, I can dispense with the strips of wood and just measure the width of second part (hinged part to join the main platform) from the main platform to the proximal (near) side of the measuring-cut?
The flap + shims should be 3 7/8" wide, to the center of the test cut (middle of the "V") or shelf. Colin originally said 3 5/8", then said 3 7/8". This jig can be used with different router bits. For the first cut you add the strip for whatever bit width you chose. But this original bit will probably be not wide enough for your shelf, so a second cut is needed. Use the strip that is the same thickness as your shelf.
I really appreciate your idea on how to handle the router but how could i learn if i have no router?
As others have commented, I thought the advantage of this jig was that it aligned with the center point of ANY SIZE router bit.
Mark the CENTER LINE of your desired dado/slot/groove, position this jig on that line, clamp it down, flip back its alignment section, and your router's bit is now centered on that center line.
The jig sounds similar to the kerfmaker... kinda. But it only works for your bit size and the final dado is not on the side of the line and not in the middle of the line.
Can this be done with a non plunging router?
Yup. It sure can! I only have a cordless router and since this doesn't affect cut depth at all, you just set your depth and use the jig like any other router.
I have 3/4" edge trim around my newly built end table top, with mitered corner joints. Would it be ok to router it without fear of tear out at the corners? Is there anything I could do to not get tear out?
Awesome video. My question is can I get away with not using a router table or a table saw to put dado cuts on the sides of a cabinet door in order to fit a panel in?
Great idea, which I believe I understand (we'll see). Assuming I do, how about drilling pairs of dowel holes in the base board, at offsets to suit shelf spacing? That way, you don't need to mark for the next shelf, just drop the dowels down into the previously cut dado, to locate the jig for the next one.
I have no idea what you are talking about, but would like to!!
Good jig and vid, might have helped people understand a bit better if you would have showed what happens if you don't take into account the individual bit cutting size, therefore ahowing why you need the strips. Thank you.
الحمدلله ماشاءالله
I wish you had shown more detail of how you got that under piece perfectly square.
😎👍
How did the hinged part come into it?
do not understand the necessity of this. Why not just use a straight edge and a 3/4 router bit?
Ken wall because not all plywood is exactly the size of the 3/4 router bit
@@grahamaustin5618 there is a rail guide with micro adjustments. Then you can take multiple passes taking off a mm or less extra at a time.
Check Bosch OFA 32 or the Festool LR 32
Thule Gezelschap you don’t need that. The second strip takes care of any width deviation if you use a bit half the width of your shelf.
I understand the concept- not explained very well here. I use mainly Baltic birch cabinet grade plywood in my projects which comes in metric thicknesses. I bought Amana 12mm and 18mm bits. Straight edge- 1 pass - always perfect.
I’m confused also, why the flipper board. Does not make sense to me?
ME NEITHER CONFUSING
It's to line up with your pencil mark and account for the offset of the router base so you don't have to measure or do math to figure out where to clamp the jig.
will this work on a piece smaller than 6 inch length and 7 inch width?
I measure, draw a line, clamp down a straight edge and cut my dado. If the stock doesn't fit, I use a thin piece of cardboard and make a second pass. That's using a three quarter bit if I want a three quarter dado that will fit the three quarter shelf material. Sometimes it's tight but more often it's a little loose. This jig I got to admit I'm a little confused. When putting in the hinges. If you want it accurate. Why is the veneer shims used? I will have to try this out to see how it turns out. Then I have to make all these different size shims and you are still making two passes. Looking at this right now, it's not coming off as such a simple process. I'll know better when I'm facing the inevitable screw ups that I anticipate will accompany this method.
Believe it or not, in doing the math it works out with the dado on center
@@jmel81 I have 4 Router tables and 13 Routers. Getting the Dado centered does not represent any kind of problem. After passing my stock through up against the fence. I put tape or paper taped to the fence to move my stock out from the fence and make a second pass to accommodate my shelf wood. It has always worked for me.
You mispronouncing your own Name 🙂 Knecht is german and pronounced completely different.
Beside that i really enjoy your videos, keep up the good Work. Greetings from Germany!
It means servant / henchman in Dutch 😁
How do you know how long the flip board will be? Is that based on your router?
At 5:16 the "point" where his 2 passes meet shows his center point for his particular router. He then made the flipping board shorter equivalent to the thickness of his veneer so when the jig is all screwed together it still perfectly measures to the center of his router.
This was extremely confusing for me. Why is the whole jig necessary? Why not just set up a straight edge where you need it to be?
The jig saves you time from measuring distances. You just draw a line for the position of the dado you want to cut, then you clamp the jig down aligned to that line, then you flip the hinged part up and run your router against the jig to cut the dado. Colin did not do a good job of showing that the hinged part was cut to just the width that he needed to account for the size of the base on his router.
@@XJWill1 Now I understand - thanks for the detail, much appreciated!
Hi colin,
Just came onboard with you and am learning so much about routing - I've just built mini table carkus out of Oak looks really nice.
QUESTION
Is MDF suitable to router top where I have to make inlay to drop Router plate into it?? Or if not could you suggest a suitable timber .
Best regards
Chris ”The Aussie living in the Netherlands ” 😃
Carcass
I've built a complete router table with an inlaid Jessum router lifter. I used 3/4" MDF as my top. It routes beautifully and is perfectly flat. I used contact cement to apply a Formica finish surface. It's beautiful.
I have seen this made by stumby nubs channel three years ago. Credit goes to them but thanks for explaining it
So credit goes to the first person to make a UA-cam video on the topic. 😂
NOT CLEAR WHAT DOES THE PIECE THAT HINGES DO?
It's just for lining it up before you clamp it down. Saves you having to measure manually.
Why can’t you use a sized router bit and straight edge
Well, if you use plywood for the shelves, theres no such thing as a router bit that is exactly that size. Would be nice if 3/4 inch ply would actually be 3/4-inch thick;-)
الحمدلله
You said the center point was 35/8 but then said to measure the board 37/8. Was that a mistake?
Why not just use a 3/4" router bit?
One observation. If you take the 3/8 spacer and rip it at 3/4, then you only need one spacer that you can just lay it over 90 deg. Just less items you need to keep up with.
Very slick yet simple jig.
You missed the point. The 3/4 strip is the thickness of the board that he is trying to cut the dado for. This method will work for any board thickness between 3/8 and 3/4. He could have stuck a 1/2-inch thick strip in for the second pass, and his dado width would fit that 1/2-inch strip perfectly.
@@XJWill1 ok that's what I was wondering. I had thought the same thing but didn't pick up that it'd work for any size shelf.
I saw your comment about using the round side. The downside to using the round is if your bit is not perfectly centered. As you rotate, the bit position can change too. The flat side, for many, will be easier to keep along the edge guide I would think as well. At least for the Bosch, I also believe that the distance from the flat to the bit on the plunge base is the same as the diameter as the fixed so that the one jig could be used for either base.
Your videos are great but I am lost on this one, it’s more like trying to make sense out of Einstein’s theory of relativity.
0:29 Accent translation text provided, LOL
Ooooookay...
5:43 3 5/8 vs 3 7/8,
I was looking to see if anyone else read it differently. :) Actually, I read it as 3 13/16. :) Thank you.
I'm too new to routering! I feel like saying "cool! What is it?" I also spent the first half of the video trying to remember what a dado was. Sigh. So much to understand
Colin, you're making this too hard to understand. You know what you're doing, but your explanation is convoluted. Your mind is working overtime, but unless the viewer has a working knowledge of dados and jigs, this is too hard to understand. Sorry. Usually, I get something from your videos; this one gave me a headache.
I agree. He should have started with the finished bookshelf, to show what he was trying to accomplish, then showed the completed jig, then showed how the jig worked. Could have shaved off about half the time and made it quick and simple.
@@jimthesoundman8641 Colin doesn't know how to shave time off. Always over-explains.
agree
Cut the dados threw completely then face with your favorite wood to hide the end of the dado.
Colin, I'm a long time fan and subscriber but in this one I really could not follow the explanations. :-(((
Surely the sizing strip needs to be half the cutter diameter?
No, not half. Full. The idea is to subtract the thickness of sizing strip from the thickness of the board going into the dado and then add that difference onto the groove width cut in the first pass of the router. So the final dado width is equal to the thickness X of the board: (X - S) + D = X That equation only works if the diameter of the router bit D is equal to the width of the sizing strip S.
Why not just make it so you don't need the spacers
3 5/8 then 3 7/8?
I noticed that, just a slip. At least there will not be a baby in 9mths. Ha Ha Ha
That’s way to much work.
There are a few problems with this jig. First, the edge of the flip board is not actually marking the center of the dado you create unless you are using the same width board that you used when making the jig. Even if it did, its easier to think about the edge of the dado then the center. Secondly, this jig only works when creating a dado that can be made with two passes of the installed router bit. There are many dado jigs, but this one is probably my least favorite. Much better would be to draw a line for the edge pf the dado, clamp a board there, press a cutoff piece of the shelf against the straight edge and clamp a second straight edge against the cutoff piece. Now, use a templating bit in your router and Bob’s your uncle.
AWESOME Idea sir! These other douche bags critiquing your work have never held a router in their lives! It pisses me off that they grow a beard and try to look like real men but then when it comes down to real work they're "busy!" Lol! It's the same guys that have a flat tire and have their wives out there changing it!