Pocket Hole Machine / Auto Pocket Hole Joinery with the Maksiwa PHM 3.0
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- Pocket Hole Machines have revolutionized commercial cabinet making and now, by adding automation to the machine a woodworker can create well-built cabinets in with natural wood, plywood, MDF, or any combination of these to make unique, strong, and attractive cabinets to keep up with market trends and requirements. The newly introduced Maksiwa PHM 3.0 uses a combination of routers and pneumatic clamping capable of creating perfect pocket holes, and adjustable to fit most sizes and needs.
Read More about the Maksiwa PHM 3.0 for pocket hole joinery here - bit.ly/2RiIGY5
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Thank you for not using a goofy photo for the video’s listing. Much appreciated 👍
I have no need for one but was amazed at the engineering on this, variable speed, etc. I like the almost straight positioning of the screws shown at the end.
A brilliant production device. The question is how quickly will this technology reach the common woodworker. That shallow 3 degree angle is amazing compared to the 15!
Nice one Colin, thank you. Most intriguing, - stay well.
I like the automation. To me, the most important thing about the angle of the screw is that when assembling a face frame, the steeper angle of other pocket hole systems causes the joint to slip. That results in more passes through the wide-belt sander. The shallow angle of the Maksiwa and Castle systems allow for flush joinery.
Kreg pocket holes at 15 degrees, coerces the wood to move as you drive the screw regardless of using a clamp or not. Castle and others, whose pocket angles are much less at 4-6 degrees, ensure the wood stays where it’s intended using clamps or not. It’s a much better design. Castle and Safety Speed have affordable desk top electric machines that allow more to use the system.
Nothing I'm saying is intended to take anything away from this very excellent Maksiwa unit. I would buy it if I needed production throughput. But the real reason the wood moves is the fit of the pocket screw in the pilot hole and not the angle of the pocket. These router machines all drill the pilot as a second operation. The manufacturers recommend a bit that provides a tight slip fit. (for good reason) The goal is to have a pilot where the screw threads don't engage the sides of the pilot hole but there minimal play. Plus, the pilot hole penetrates completely through from the mating face to the pocket.
If you drill out the pilot hole with a 4.5mm bit you'll get a slip fit with a Kreg pocket screw. And with that slip fit creep is eliminated with only modest pressure. Clamps are not needed to stop creep.
Any time you drive a screw without a through pilot hole or when the diameter of the pilot hole is less than the diameter of the threads so that the threads engage the sides of the pilot hole there will be back pressure lifting the work piece. We've all felt this. We've all felt the nice positive feel when the pieces are instantly drown together because the pilot hole has a slip fit. And we all know that screws in end grain are weaker so the greater the angle of the pocket the stronger the connection will be with all else equal simply because it's less of an end grain application.
Just try it. Drill a pocket with your Kreg jig (and everybody has some kind of drill guide style pocket hole jig) Then drill out the pilot hole bit that has a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the threads of the pocket screw. The drive the screw using modest hand pressure and watch what happens. See? No creep. A super steep angle like 45 might move but the modest 15 degree angle won't.
I've done this a bunch of times on face frames where I didn't want any creep. I drill the pockets with my old (metal) Kreg Forman and then drill out the pilot all the way through with a 4.5mm bit. BINGO!!!!
You gotta know that the folks at Castle already know this. In my opinion it makes the 110 impossible to justify unless you really need pretty pockets. I would still buy their benchtop and production units and certainly this excellent looking Maksiwa unit.
I've practiced that procedure, for years, in other applications - but didn't think of doing that with pocket joinery. Well, we learn as we go along. You always want the business end (threads) to only work in the mating piece. It's the best way to get a tight joint. Thanks for reminding me of this procedure.
Love watching your content Colin,,, Always interesting and informative.
Very good evaluation!
Parabéns pela demonstração, achei interessante essa máquina, mas vamos lá, suas explicações são fantásticas, ricas em detalhes!!!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
The pockets this machine makes are gigantic IMO. I much prefer the "to size" pockets the Kreg version makes.
Round holes are easy to plug with dowels, but what do you use for those oversized rectangular ones? Seems like extra unnecessary work.
If the pockets will be on the backside, seems like it won't matter how big it is, if it's never going to be seen. If it *IS* going to be visible, then why are you using pocket holes? There are a million other ways to do it, dowels, biscuits, dominos, etc. I think anyone who does visible pocket holes with dowels in them is a hack, sorry to say.
@@jimthesoundman8641 That doesn't answer my question.
Can't you just use wood filler?
@@pedroenriquevictoria9734 no, not when you have hundreds of holes to fill. This machine is not for your little DIY projects. It semi-automates making pocket holes because you need to do them faster. Dowels are fast, they're sold in all wood types and come pre-cut at the right angle. And to respond to the other baseless remark about esthetics, when done right you will have a hard time seeing where the pocket holes are. My customers certainly can't.
Pocket holes as large as what this machine makes them will make it harder to conceal them.
I'd say if I was serious about buying the equipment then I'd reach out to the manufacturer. Good thing to bring up though! 👍
Be happy man you got a free machine ... congrats
That’s awesome machine . Very good value!!!
Really, really interesting, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Cool machine, thanks for showing it to us
Great to see how it works and this would be great for cabinet makers or a manufacturing company. For us DIYers it is just not in the budget. A smaller version of that for the average consumer would get a brouder clientele and of course at a reasonable price . Great the reached out to you so you can have fun with it. Hurry make some stuff with it before they want it back lol
Pretty high technology stuff
Impressive machine but well over $3000. WOW!!!
Interesting piece of equipment that I was not familiar with before now. Aesthetically though the elongated holes would be a reason I’d look elsewhere if it was something I needed. Kreg has a somewhat similar machine for volume production as well.
Hi Colin love your videos! Love the angle this machine gives the screw. Was hoping you could do a video on top coats;
I’m wondering what clear you prefer over painted furniture surfaces.
good video
Thanks Colin. How about dowels to cover the holes? The pocket hole shapes look a bit different. Hmmm.
Very Cool Pocket Hole Machine !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am wondering if you can use dowels as plugs!
I believe the angle shown is the most interesting part of the video. the angle on a standard drill bit pocket hole jig is the root cause for the alignment problems that often occur when assembling. You have shared "tricks" to prevent these alignment problems but this machine seems to avoid those pitfalls. Colin, do you agree?
@@RazaXML I agree
Love the cute noises it makes. LOL.
Actually though, I thought 1 of the advantages 2 the pocket hole was that the slant provided more strength, although a disadvantage 2 thinner material.
Wow! never knew that angle was that steep. That was an excellent educational video . I am not a "profit making " woodworker but that will help me out in choosing a depth of hole and length of screw for future projects . PS. I am loven that watch , where can I get one ?
With such router bit orientation, the bottom of the pocket hole (the area where screw head touches wood) is not flat against the screw. wonder if it causes any problems.
Great video as always! Gonna check out the price! Thanks!
I believe someone said over $3000
Porter cable pocket machine, or castle pocket cutter less features same set up. I got the porter cable used and I prefer the pockets to the kreg jig ,the pilot holes are 90 degrees to the work so you don't have to fight to keep it aligned.
If the screw is at an angle it will be stronger for two reasons. Firstly, it will cross over more fibers than the straighter screw that screws between the fibers. It's well known that a screw will pull out of an end grain easier if it's between the fibers along the length of the grain. Secondly it's much harder to pull a joint apart if the screw is being pulled sideways as opposed to along its length (obviously) and while the angled screw isn't 90 degrees it will at least be a few of degrees and therefore have to be pulled at least slightly sideways.
what if you using 1/2" material?
Hi sir can you make a twisty table for your viewers 👍
I was not liking the look of the pockets, since I am so used to the standard pocket holes, but the angle of the screw was interesting to see. If the screw is more centered in your stock, I would imagine that is going to be a stronger hold.
I have a porter cable production pocket hole machine, also uses two routers the holes being straight eliminates the tendency for the screws to pull the peices out of alignment. Don't really need clamps although still helps.
I was thinking the opposite: Most of the time you're pocketholing (if there's such a word) a piece to fix at 90degrees to another. Then the more angled screw would mean more thread length is in the wood, so stronger? Here Colin was holding his pieces as if he was jointing them into a board, so the 4degree would be strongly preferable, allowing for a longer screw. I've never considered pocketjoining.
so that small angle is an advantage, or the exact opposite ???
do you have to use now a 30inch long square bit to get far enough from the board with your power drill ????
KREG
The brand he's trying hard not to say is KREG.
I like the comparison.
The link doesn't seem to be working.
I've fixed that. Thanks for the note!
It was a pain to find the price of this. Currently, it's $4000 at one of the dealers Maksiwa lists on their site.
It’s cheaper than castle equivalent (over $6k) and it’s more for pros who assemble lots of face frames and drawers. Look for the desk top versions - for $1400 - $1800
The screw angle is a real eye opener with this machine compared to KREG or other common pocket hole tools.
Can you get a hand held jig that drills a straighter hole? Are all the hand held ones the same? (I currently have the very cheapest Kreg model)
Interesting as this looks like the Castle machines, but this beast looks suited for full production work. And as my daddy always said, if you have to ask how much, you might not be able to afford it. This appears to be the case here.
That's stupid, why would you buy something without knowing the price?! Always ask, that doesn't mean you can't afford it, it just means you are a smart buyer, sometimes you can find that same tool somewhere else at a lower price
@@kllgrogto5838 they choose to make you engage their sales team for a quote. A quote for a machine that according to some on this thread is over $3k. Meanwhile most here feel a Kreg foreman is kinda spendy at a fraction of that cost...
It’s more for production use and for pros.
Pocket holes for only $3299.00, what a deal!
Not very convincing Mr Knecht. The normal pocket hole screw angle has never presented problems that your blurb might be
suggesting. The pocket from the Maksiwa is rediculously long. Also, can you imagine the state (sawdust mess) of the inside of that machine after a month or so of use!?
Kreg pocket system coerces the wood to move despite using large clamping force. Everyone who uses the system knows this is the single most annoying issue with a steep angled pocket. A 4-6 degree pocket requires little to no clamping force and keeps joints aligned. Use dust vac to easily remove debris - this is also a given. Professional cabinet builders use shallow pocket machines.
LOL I'll stick wick with the tried and true Krieg , this thing is NOT for the weekend woodworker.$3,000+ , no thanks.
The Castle 110 would be the answer for weekend woodworkers like myself. It's price tag is more down to earth.
Interesting video Colin. However, I am not a fan of that machine. It's way to expensive for the average woodworker & the "pockets" that it makes are to big to boot. I don't even think that it's good for commercial use since it only bores one hole at a time & is very slow in its operation. Just my opinion......
This machine is probably a very superior method for making pocket holes as compared to other devices. However it is designed for use in an industrial or high production setting and not for DYI'ers. And since the pocket holes is the theme of this video, I'm going to take the opportunity to discuss my pet peeve with pocket holes and it is not the hole. It's the use of Robertson or square drive screws as the preferred fastener. These fasteners are horrendous as they require alignment with the driver. This fastener will wallow out square if not aligned properly. All to often perfect alignment is not available so a loose fit is what you get. A better fastener drive would be a "Star" or Torx" drive used with a low torque drill setting. These are much more forgiving that Square drives and more secure than square drive fasteners.
Milescraft sells Torx T20 pocket screws. I have used them and they work well.
Which also raises the possible issue that the screw and the driver bit will NOT be in alignment in the machine made pocket hole.
@@XJWill1 Castle also offers torx screws for their line of pocket hole machines.
That machine ( 2nd router ) sounds like you have a bird stuck inside of it.
Why not just stick with the Kreg Foreman, mmmmmuuuuucccch more cheaper and its much smaller
I have a Foreman because that all I could afford for my new shop but at my work we use a Castle. The Foreman sucks next to machines like these that uses 2 bits. But I am looking to eventually get myself to higher production so the money will be well worth it to me. Only thing I do not like about the Castle is the way the routers are mounted in the machine. When you need to change the bits it's kind of a hassle and that's why I would consider this one or might be looking at Safety Speed Cut. From what I have seen theirs seems to be well designed but if you have a problem at this price point you don't even want to see what they are asking for theirs.
@@FussyEntertainment I’m thinking the same. Safety Speed is well engineered quality - slightly cheaper than castle. Both have good desktop entry level versions much cheaper than stand alone machines. 👍
I understand and appreciate your passion for woodworking. But you are starting to drift out of the range of us home workshop wood to saw dust converters. Be carefull that you don't start depending on multuple thousand dollar tools as even good old plad shirted Norm's new yankey workshop went. We need more basic step by step build projects with common tools. Hah, who wouldn't love to have aq Festool tracksaw.
@@RazaXML Lots of people have tools like these in their garages or tiny shops. Not everyone, but many do. So I wouldn't say he's "drifting out of range" but rather he's just looking at the prosumer side of it. And, like he said, this is a loaner.
Those pocket holes are hideous! Much prefer Kreg!
This is a flimsy machine made with cheap parts and has no place in a professional shop. Bought one the switch went out the face is closed with rivets so you can't service it. The air hose connection is weak and held in place with a flimsy sheet metal bracket .
Did you buy it brand new? I’ve been looking at one and considering it.
Please talk mm for us in new Zealand please
This is an american channel and we use inches, but you can always do the math 1"=25.4mm. And before everyone jumps down my throat I use MM daily on the CNC so I use mm more than inches daily and I am in the US.
And for the videos from New Zealand could you please talk inches!!!! Geez!
Metric sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lovely if I’ll like to learn about the mechanics I mean in person how will I go about it ?
That shriek is TERRIBLE.
nothing in EU :(