139 - Exact-Width Dado Jig
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2011
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In the Weekend Wall Shelf episode, I showed you how to use a parallel jig to create dados. But the jig was originally created for making coves at the tablesaw. So here's a special jig made specifically for the purpose of creating dados with your router. The best part is, you can get exact-width dados EVERY TIME!
This jig was developed and demonstrated in the current Guild Build as part of the Wall-Hanging Cabinet series (it was originally inspired by this Wood Magazine Jig). This video is a little sample of what Guild members are enjoying every week during the build season. If you are interested in joining the Guild, learn more here.
This jig can be made to any size for any bit/guide bushing combination. Just remember that once you use a particular bit/bushing combo with the jig, you are stuck with it. Using a different combination will defeat the purpose of the jig. I used a 5/8″ guide bushing and a 1/2″ router bit.
Don't forget to download the PDF and SketchUp drawing for the Exact Width Dado Jig!
Jig Modifications
I requested ideas modifications to the jig, and a couple Guild members were quick to off suggestions. If you have a modification, upload it to our SketchUp Library and share the link in the comments below.
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Mark, All of your video's are great. You explain everything in detail without distracting content. You should be on TV. You are much better than the woodworking shows that I watch.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks
Marc I can't thank you enough for your inspiration. After watching your videos I've put your teaching to good use and my woodworking is really improving. I built your exact-width fado jic and it works perfectly. The only changes I made to your design was to make the adjustable fence wider which gave me more clearance for my router which allowed me to mount the knobs on the top of the jig. Thanks again so much.
I finally got around to building this jig and it works great! Creates exact (snug) fitting dadoes each time. It only took me an afternoon to build - less the glue dry time, of course. Thanks for posting the idea, Marc.
I watched three videos regarding perfect width dados. Each was progressively better. Yours was number 3. If I had learned nothing else I am grateful for learning how to make a mini "L" fence to trim edge banding. The jig that you built is elegant right down to the hardwood edges. I am going to put this movie on my favorites bar.
Works a treat I made one yesterday with a lovely oak trim. Cheers for the step by step guide Mark even I couldn't go wrong :)
I followed your instructions and found it very easy to make. I use this jig all the time. Thanks for sharing this!
Well I just spent the whole day watching and re-watching another unnamed "how to guy" building the same jig. (well not exactly the same but at a glance...) WHY DIDN'T I USE THIS ONE??? I think I'll just redo the whole jig and build one like yours. Really well done video and I really appreciate the detailed PDF drawings too! Thanks a million sir!
Thank you! FYI, I'll be joining the guild in the next few months after aging watched these videos. I'm really impressed with how you explain the concepts. You could take the crown when Norm Abrahm Retires!
Dude!!!! I only wanted to learn how to do an inlay!!! It's been more than three hours since I started watching your videos and I can't stop!!! You are the man
I watched this a good while ago. Started fabrication of an “improved” version and ran into problems. So I watched the video again today. Now I see why the closer knob needs to be on the bottom. Time to figure out the best way to put the far knob on top. Thanks Mark!
“Bring the little clamp in here...”
*brings out monstrous clamp*
And then he did it again with an even bigger one! No-one round here even sells anything as big as them, and if they did I couldn't afford them.
I just finished the jig this afternoon. Test cuts were right on. Thanks.
I usually don't like watching vids where the guy uses all these high end/expensive tools and gizmos, but must admit you do a really nice job of presenting the project! I made one of these years back from a ShopNotes plan using hardboard and hardwood strips..and it worked perfect as well. Good job!
Wanted to say thanks! I finally had some time to make this jig and it works excellent! Made my first stopped dado without a lot of hassle. Great for shelving. I was amazed at how strong the joint was when you get the exact width. There isn't any play. No need for screws.
As a beginning wood worker, this just saved me a bunch of money.
Made the slotted side twice as wide (5") so the knobs could be on top and be clear of the router. Worked perfectly! Thanks.
ONE OF THE BETTER QUALITY,DETAILED VIDEOS I HAVE WATCHED.
good job with your videos man. i love them. you're easy to listen to and sound really down to earth. my first love was my wife, my second love were my children, my third love is woodworking. i've watched maybe 4 of your videos and have already learned something new
This is so simple, but I can't describe how much of a headache this would have saved me if I knew about this last weekend.
hey marc, so glad I clicked your vid. I made two of these way back now I find I need em again,sooo. I used a bearing over pattern bit to cut the slots, but you have to be more careful. why anyone would not appreciate your vid is like the rest of those mysteries.
thank you for your frankness about the finish sanding
Thanks man, I'm new to routing and this helped greatly.
You definitely could do that. I was trying to keep the jig as low profile as possible using scraps I had on hand. But that's exactly why I invited folks to experiment and expand on the concept. This by no means is this the end all be all version of this type of jig.
That was a really good presentation and a really excellent jig i think mark is one of the better woodwork teachers good clear voice and a gentel accent
Super. I learned a lot just watching your techniques for building the jig.
Great jig relatively easy to make and will be very useful.
Thanks.
I love your videos they helped me make a lot of furniture. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the clip, Marc! I made a similar jig but I ended up using a flush trim bit and I found that it made the jig a lot more versatile. You can use a bit of any diameter and length and in any router and the jig still works. Also you don't have to center the guide bushing perfectly each time. And finally, you can flip the jig upside down if needed.
Perfect solution. Nice and simple also
Flush trim bit with a top bearing.
Just made one of these today Marc. Absolutely brilliant! Thanks for the advice. Regards Barry (England)
They can do the same thing, depending on the bit you're talking about. It does guide the bit a particular distance from a surface. But guide bushings are still very much needed in woodworking.
Great jig. Modification could be screw in nut in place of T bolt and socket head cap screw (Allen screw ) with a wide washer in a stepped slot on the top. With this set-up you will need an Allen wrench handy !!
Well after cobbling together a few of this type of jig and never being really happy with the results, today I gave it the full "Spagnuolo" and made it to spec, just like you did Marc, the glue is still setting up on the final attachment to of the long guide rails to the short and long end rails, but it looks great.
Cheers!
Inventor of JessEm router lift we are proud to say is a Newfie like us. We have the Mast R Lift Excell II and love it. Nice to see you using JessEm as well Marc.
Thank you, brother! Great video!
Knobs on top .Recess the bolt heads using lock washers will prevent shifting.. Adding a twist knob on each end allows adjustment for any bit.Your video presentation has improved greatly form the first one I viewed. My first impression was a not so serous wood worker hopped up on too much caffeine.Everyone deserves the benefit of doubt. Then you mentioned Sponge Bob Square Pants. Being an Old Duffer an spent time with my children s children watching that show. Well you had me then.. Keep the videos coming. Enjoy each one. Thank You
Thanks for sharing . I made a similar jig back in the late '70s .
I have created the missing link to that jig it took me 15 years. It’s finally finish contact me. Never been seen before. Amazing.
Thanks for sharing. Good health to you and yours.
I am setting up my new shop and needed to build wall cabinets with a top and bottom set into dados. I just made one of these dado guides with some scrap 3/4" MDF. My adjustment slots were made with a drill bit and then cut out with a jig saw between holes. I ensured my 1/4 - 20 bolts slid without binding. I added threaded inserts into the top of the sliding piece and used a toilet flange bolt and home made star knobs that screwed into the threaded insert (ensuring the bolt didn't raise above the top). Instead of using a bushing, I used a top-bearing 1/2" pattern router bit that runs along the 2 edges. I couldn't get pattern bit locally less than 1" long, so I had to add 1/4" strips to raise the guide edge. It worked fine.
once again mark you always outdo your self thanks for the jig video i will make me one very soon using your design nice jig
Marc, make the jig a little wider, specifically, the piece that moves or is adjustable. Make it wide enough, you can put the plastic knob on top and the router can still slide past the plastic knob by offsetting the locking hardware far enough to the outside it clear the router.
I love this jig, thanks.
Great jig & really all your videos have been very useful to me, thank you.
Outstanding!
@ImposingSumo The problem with that is the knobs. They would be in the way of the router base. So you'd have to made the rails much wider so the base of the router would ride freely on the rails.
Love my Jessem table and lift!
@cartoonkeith1 The description for this video has a link to our website where you can download the plans and measured drawings for the project. Combined with the video, that should be just about everything you need to reproduce the jig.
Thanks Marc!
great way to do things. and i like your way to use auxiliary fince to trem the excess of wood
I am curious, would you please explain why you chose a guide bushing / router bit set up vs a patterning bit with an integral guide top bearing?
Regards and thanks for all I have learned from your excellent videos !
G
This is a really handy tool man
Thanks for this video
Greetings from Belgium
Erik
Thanx Marc straight forward design
Me gusta mucho el trabajo en madera. Todas estas ideas son cool thanks a lot.
Word of warning to anyone building this jig... i just finished building this jig and it works great, but i quickly realized that there is no stop for your side to side so if you're making a dado all the way across the piece, you can easily continue the dado onto the jig itself. I only found this out after doing this to my brand new jig. It will still work but its just weakened now with a 3/4 inch dado cut into the fence piece. I also found out the hard way that if you are not careful taking the router off the jig while its still spinning, you will knick the edge of your perfectly straight reference edge.... obviously these things are common sense, i guess i got a little too excited to try out my new jig.
Anyway, top knotch video and idea marc!
+charles devillier see above. I'm building a bigger one.
After awhile the typical shop ends up with many routers, some not used in years. The same is true of guide bushings. After centering the base plate, dedicating one of those mutts to cutting dadoes would be an ideal use and having the jig and router all set up would expedite the work. Thank you.
I think you'd be able to put the knobs on top if you were to make the Long and Short fences wider, then offset the knobs to the outside edge. How much wider and how much to offset will be determined by your router base, enough so it doesn't interfere when you are at the ends. May not even have to do this to the short end unless you really want to use the full length of the jig.
Coach bolts would be great for this job, heads underneath with the nut & washers on top. Smaller nuts will still do the same as his large knobs. Especially if using clamps every time, you can use a spanner to tighten them.
@DanHolly3 haha, i'll take whatever flattery I can get!
I love this jig. It works very well and is simple to make. My only issue was due to the length of cut on my piloted router bit 3/4" plywood is to thin. I had to add a layer of 1/4" plywood to allow the top bearing to make contact with the guiding surface when routing a dado 3/8" deep. Other than that it's a great video and a welcome addition to my tool collection. Thanks.
Will be building some variation on this design. Than you!
Great videos. Watching them really puts me in the mood.........to do wood work. I was thinking that it might be beneficial if after you clamped your piece in the jig, that you put a thin pencil line on the workpiece that you're going to cut the dado in,on the outside of the jig so that when you pull the piece out you would know if the jig moved, If it did you would no longer see the pencil line. Keep up the good work
the sound of the playoffs and the sound of wood shavings hahah truly paradise , great videos man, learning a lot! thanks
my brother recommended *TopFineWoodworking .Com* for the best woodworking plans and I couldnt agree more after getting it. Tons of amazing plans for sheds in there.......
Hey great idea… I upgraded my fence to an alloy fence… and works fantastic
Well to each his own. But I am not too concerned about the wood damaging or dulling my blade. Think about it. Wood vs metal....who wins that fight? After all, the blade slices through wood hundreds of times before requiring honing. Laying a plane on it's side, however, leaves the blade out and exposed to contact with other tools, workpieces, and worst of all, my hands. So in my shop, my planes will continue to go face down. But everyone is certainly welcome to treat their planes as they see fit.
Another possible solution to the challenge posed: put the bolts thru from the bottom, so the knobs are on top. So that the knobs aren't in the way of the router base, simply make your two rails wider, and position the knobs towards the outside.
Kelly Rago Wouldn’t having the adjustment knobs on top potentially impede the movement of the router? Maybe mark could try it since he’s already built his jig, then let us know? I’m going to build one. I destroyed a table top when tried cutting a dado using a straightedge. I’m 70 with shaking hands and need more insurance against pulling the router off line. This is a GREAT video! Karl
I see what Kelly is saying but the rails would have to be wider or “L” shaped to get the knobs out far enough to clear the router.
This was my solution, Kelly. Rails just need to be about 3.25” wide from the widest part of the knob towards the working slot. I find the ability to keep the work flat to the bench more important.
I dunno...I guess a "guys and gals" every now and then would be all I'm thinking about. Maybe this just speaks to my own need to network a little more. You are fantastic, no criticism implied. The real feedback is that I've learned a ton from you. No higher praise!
Marc - I really love your in-depth tutorials and your insight into the potential pitfalls of particular techniques or projects. Thanks for sharing your passion. Besides all the kudos, I have you pegged as the most sophisticated, urbane and downright contemporary woodworker sharing stuff on UA-cam, etc. So - I know that probably 99% of your viewers/members are "guys." But howzabout every now & then using some inclusive language for the women woodworkers out there? It would make me smile.
Just built one. Yes I did modify the position of those knobs by simply placing them on top with the head of the bolt secured in the bottom piece.
Thanks for the great Job
Nice! This could also be used for hand-cut dados, as a guide for a carcase saw for the shoulder cuts. You could also make a variation with sloped sides as a guide for sawing sliding dovetails. With the adjustable ends, you could even tap one end tighter to get tapered sliding dovetails. While both of these operations can be done by hand fairly easily, the compound angle of the tapered dovetail does get tricky.
I also like your video style, dynamic and direct!
Отличная работа
Right on, I've made many 'one use' brad nailed scrap jigs around the base of my router,(straight cutter, no guide). With your idea, now I need only one jig and a dedicated router. I guess its better.
Great video
Pretty much. Guide bushings will always offset. Flush trim bits trim flush.
as long as you trust that they are exactly the same distance as the ones you used to make the jig.
Great video. I am endeavoring to start making this jig based on the inspiration here! Thanks in advance. Question. Could the initial 1/2 x 1/8 rail rabbet be done just as well with a table saw?
So simple. But soo useful!!
After watching your one time tool demo.i was wondering what would be the maximum length you would feel comfortable building this jig to?
I'm going to give myself a pat on the back. I made a jig similar to this a while ago before i saw this video. The difference in my jig is that both sides are secured (for 11/16th birch ply) & I didn't bother with the rabbits I just used 1/4" hardboard on the bottom and routered to size with the guide bushing. It gave me a nice tight fit! But I am also glad I watched this for more ideas
@Steelshooter Thanks for the kind words. That's a set I picked up from Lee Valley.
hello i am just starting out can you recommend a table saw and brad nailer and other tools you think i would need thanks you do a good job explaining
Great job.
Great Job
@fapa1983 I picked those up from Lee Valley. Very nice, but very pricey. About $75 each!
Built this today and when I was looking thru my hardware I found some double threaded furniture hardware that would allow you to use it on your bench. Not sure what they are called but there is a course outer thread to hold in the wood and an inner thread that would tighten down the movable fench. I didn't have and screws that fit so I didn't try it but it should work
@cartoonkeith1 Well its not so much about cost as it is about whether I would be able to do it. I don't really do much custom work for clients these days since my schedule is so packed with video production.
Thanks for the kind words! I have to tell my wife that I'm urbane and I wish to be referred to as such from now on. :) Concerning "guys," that's just the reality of informal unscripted chatter and thankfully it doesn't seem to bother all of our women members. We have quite a few! But since you brought it up, I'm curious what you suggest for inclusive language. I like to think that I speak to woodworkers, and sex is a non-issue unless someone makes it so.
I can't see how he got any dislikes. This is a nice , useful jig.
wow.. you got a Big Fan, that really Blows air for a Living.. .Musically though.. :D
Excellent video! You mention that this setup only works for this particular bit and collar combination, but wouldn't it work for other bit and collar combinations where the difference between them was 1/8"?
una buona soluzione bravo !!!!!
What brand are the little clamps you used to secure the two fences when flushing out the hardwood using the little rabbet channel ? I’ve watched the video about 30 times. Thanks for your post! John
Hi, I started to make this jig today, but stalled a bit pondering the problem that using the jig the work piece has to be raised or off the bench, I was wondering if you made the rails longer and the fences wider i.e. add the width of what ever your router is plus your measurements and use the same knobs and bolts but further away from the front of the fences and also with the knob on the top instead of underneath.. Can you see any problems in this, maybe it wont clamp so well or something...?
@hypnolobster Not sure what you mean by setup clamps.... Can you elaborate?
You're crazy Marc! That outro story is ridiculous. My wife is Venezuelan and she said the El Saxofonista is the epiphany of suave.
@10:45 "Bring a little clamp in here"... it's the biggest clamp I ever seen... :)
What counter sink bit is that you're using? I just love all of your videos they are so helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
The inside edges of the guides are wider at the top than at the bottom (that's why there is a rabbet there). The guide bushing fits in the top, and the bottom (cut by the router blade and thus the same size as the dado cut) is what you adjust to fit your shelf.
Though it does seem to me that there could be a problem if the bit was not exactly centered in the bushing every time, as it might nibble some away from one edge if it was not, so next time the slot would be too narrow.
Nicely done, I just wondering why not have both rails the same length. And if you slot the side rails you be able to use the jig as a clamp to .as you be able to push the bottom rail up against the other side of the wood your grooving.
If you were to put a sacrificial piece in on the end you could route all the way to the end if you needed to
Habe Dich zwar nicht verstanden, weil ich kein Englisch kann, aber Deine Demo hat mir gereicht. Viele Grüße aus Germany