I'm used to larger, corded routers ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
Awesome. Is it just me but whenever I’m watching a woodworking video I always end up with the same thought; “I don’t have enough clamps…” Is it just me?? Haha
Great video and very helpful advice. Thank you Kevin. I am building some bookshelves and after watching this just ordered a Freud 50-106 (my dados are larger than 3/4") and will build one of these jigs. I need to make 24 dados for the project and this will help a lot. No more measuring from my bit to the edge of my router plate. Again - many thanks. BTW: Good point on the snipe.
Groovy! Something not elaborated but essential is the snugness of the edge guide blocks- they are also providing support to the edge grain to control tearout.
How do you adjust the depth to 3/8 and account for the jig depth? Also did you intentionally make your spacers 3/4. Also how do you keep the router from cutting into the jig.?
+1 with the depth question, I need to know as well. The router doesn't cut into the jig because the bearing runs on the jig and the cutter is the same width as the bearing.
I wanted a jig for my fixed router...I was so excited til you used a plunge router. So since I am not plunging, my bit has to go past the 3/4 inch plywood jig and then into the panel 3/8 inch. Is that possible without a plunge router? I just bought my router...so forgive me if this is a stupid question.
Thanks for a great jig and explanation Kevin. Like most table saws in New Zealand, mine has a short arbor so won't take a dado set. This is a great alternative.
This is a 1 time use jig what if you are doing another job and say your dado needs to be say 1/8 wider and say 2 or 3 inches shorter you need to make another jig there is no adjustment on this jig I see this jig as a through away jig
Thank you. Very helpful. How would we assure that the dado on one side lines up with the corresponding dado on the other side? Lay the sides edge to edge and make a jig that spans both sides? Anyone?
Thank you!! I hadn't noticed. It seems like an important detail for a novice to understand. Given that you've gone through the trouble of making the jig, it would make sense to mention that it's normal to cut into the jig to complete the dado.
I'm used to larger, corded routers ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
No safety glasses?
Awesome. Is it just me but whenever I’m watching a woodworking video I always end up with the same thought; “I don’t have enough clamps…” Is it just me?? Haha
You never have enough clamps. *Never.* And don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
I've got 200 clamps and sometimes I dont have the "right" clamp. 😂😅😂😅
You are not alone brother 😄
Haha true!
Great video and very helpful advice. Thank you Kevin. I am building some bookshelves and after watching this just ordered a Freud 50-106 (my dados are larger than 3/4") and will build one of these jigs. I need to make 24 dados for the project and this will help a lot. No more measuring from my bit to the edge of my router plate. Again - many thanks. BTW: Good point on the snipe.
Groovy!
Something not elaborated but essential is the snugness of the edge guide blocks- they are also providing support to the edge grain to control tearout.
Exactly what I needed for some garage cabinets I'm building. Thank you!!!
How do you adjust the depth to 3/8 and account for the jig depth? Also did you intentionally make your spacers 3/4. Also how do you keep the router from cutting into the jig.?
+1 with the depth question, I need to know as well. The router doesn't cut into the jig because the bearing runs on the jig and the cutter is the same width as the bearing.
Depth of jig + required depth = your answer@@johnnyshinnichi1785
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I like it. Follows the principle of KISS. (Keep it simple)
Also you don't mention how thick the plywood is; only the width. I'm assuming it is 3/4" or 1".
Thanks for the video man! Great content!
I wanted a jig for my fixed router...I was so excited til you used a plunge router. So since I am not plunging, my bit has to go past the 3/4 inch plywood jig and then into the panel 3/8 inch. Is that possible without a plunge router? I just bought my router...so forgive me if this is a stupid question.
That's not a snug fit.
Thank you 🙂
Awesome idea/FYI, but I muted the audio (to much umh & ahh’s) & selected 1.5x speed.
I am a beginner and this is really helpful.
Thanks for a great jig and explanation Kevin. Like most table saws in New Zealand, mine has a short arbor so won't take a dado set. This is a great alternative.
This is a 1 time use jig what if you are doing another job and say your dado needs to be say 1/8 wider and say 2 or 3 inches shorter you need to make another jig there is no adjustment on this jig I see this jig as a through away jig
You can remove the screws and use the same pieces to make different size.
Just what I might need soon!
Brilliant! 4 bits of good quality scrap, 8 screws and it's DONE!
I like the I-beam risers too.
Good point on the sniped offcuts!
So much easier than the adjustable version. I don’t cut a lot of dadoes so this is perfect and I could reuse it if I don’t glue it
Thank you. Very helpful. How would we assure that the dado on one side lines up with the corresponding dado on the other side? Lay the sides edge to edge and make a jig that spans both sides? Anyone?
You use a ruler😁
Do you cut into the end pieces of the jig? I don't see how you can complete the dado without cutting into the jig itself. Thanks in advance.
The bearing on the bit rides along the rails and prevents them from getting cut into.
Nevermind. You mean the other rails.
You can see around the 8:00 mark that he did cut through the end rails.
Thank you!! I hadn't noticed. It seems like an important detail for a novice to understand. Given that you've gone through the trouble of making the jig, it would make sense to mention that it's normal to cut into the jig to complete the dado.
Hi friends.. I am from Indonesia watching your video, that's very great ..helping me as beginner , good job guy 👍
Simple and very helpful. Thank you!
Do you have a quick sketch for those I-beams you are using to lift the panel off the workbench?
Sure. Here ya go: www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/shop-organization/uplifting-benchtop-risers
Thanks for the knowledge, Sir !!!!!!!!!!!
Could you share a link to where we could buy that particular router bit? I've looked at my local stores and have not been able to find one like it.
I’ve seen it at Home Depot. I think it was labeled as a mortising bit.
Good play.. old tricks for new builders.. well done! carry on!
Very informative, no annoying music, thanks
He say you could not teach a old a new trick. Thank you.
Brilliant
thankx alot i learned a lot from this video
SUPER!!!
Great one, straight forward.. Well done
I also flatten table tops like this.
Is it possible to do this with a non-plunge router or even a palm router for those who don't have this tool?
Just what i needed. Thank you
Well said, thanks!
Totally forgot his safety glasses. :(
plus forgot to unplug power cord from router prior touching router bit with bare hands 8:03. crossing fingers
Thank goodness the UA-cam safety police are on the job.
Eye and ear protection...
Pro tip: A pinch of salt will keep your glue joints from sliding around.
www.woodmagazine.com/wood-supplies/glues-adhesives/should-i-use-salt-in-my-glue-to-prevent-slipping