I got the same catch can years ago from ebay. I has no baffles. The steel wool media is not filling the entire can but only the the return port in the cap. I believe that's what the instructions said. Works good for me, it fills up within about 600M.
Increased crank case pressure. That's what you got after installing this type of catch can. Please get some cheap pressure sensor with oil cap , build it in cap and do the tests.
Have you ever contacted The Car Care Nut who is the Toyota specialist on here? Be great if you two guys could get together and do a strip down of your engine to determine the cause. Great work btw. Love these videos.
@@javierrodriguez3821 Depens if he sees some scoring on the cylinder walls. According to all the boroscop videos Dave made there is no obvious damage to the cylinder walls (yet). So a simple Piston+Ring replacement should be enough.
This really has been a wonderful series, you've done a deep dive into how this engine is consuming oil, I think it's time to take it to the next level, do a partial tear down, pull the engine, clean and inspect the pistons, replace the rings and whatever else is spent, if Toyota offers updated pistons I'd go ahead and do that, good luck
Dave , the pistons have some clean spots along the edges. Those are sings of ring wash. Oil is pushed up through the rings and that cleans the piston edge in the proces.
Agreed. Would be cheaper than multiple additives, catch cans etc. to pull the engine hone the walls and install new rings. Lapping the valves wouldn’t hurt since you’re in it. BUT that will end this series too 😉
Its the rings no doubt 25 years full time same job same place still doing it !! I unstick rings with Arrow kroll oil take the plugs out and spray in till about a inch or so deep on top of piston and let it set over night then crank the next day has worked for me on chain saws with no psi to runing saws just did a dirt bike honda wouldnt run ele start full let set over night took a few mins got it to run been starting with the touch of the button ever sense but in your case i think they are low Tension oil rings and are just wore i would try my way and if it dont work the motor would haft to come apart or be changed to correct the problem just me !! And when i say i just did it both motors with in the last 2 weeks both are back to full psi runing great !!
Thanks. After this one, I told my wife "I don't know why I put some of this random footage in there. I just can't help myself." Glad someone likes it :-)
I’m excited for the BG results. I did the BG Dynamic kit on my 2020 QX60 that had smoke at startup and sometimes at acceleration and was burning a quart every 500 miles. I’ve put on 2500 miles since doing the kit and have had no more smoke and the oil level is down only about an eighth from the top dot. In a few hundred more miles I’m going to check the plugs and pistons to see what they look like now, previously they were coated in carbon to the point of getting a misfire on one of the plugs.
We've used the BG dynamic kit at my work and we've seen some promising results. There are many manufacturers seeing oil consumption issues, and this kit has claims to address the sticking oil control rings. I can't wait to see the next video!
Another great video! First thought was valve seals also but we know it's the rings?? BG is a great product but I don't think it can fix your problem, but what the heck, try it! Good luck!
One way to determine the amount of oil burned through the PCV is to disconnect the line leaving the pcv in place. The valve is essentially a pollution control device and as long as the engine can vent pressure to the outside the engine should run ok. If oil burning doesn't change then seals are probably the issue. But just looking at your plugs suggests the oil burning is occurring mostly in 1, 3 and 4 but not much in 2. Hints at bad seals when combined with oil residue in the intake ports. A sticky pvc can cause some problems such as idle issues from the vacuum leak, as well as oil burning. All the crap you've put in your oil might also have affected the pcv operation. Have you replaced your pcv? Not sure if I've seen you do that.
I have got the same problem with oil consumption in Ford Duratec engine and the same problem with oil on valves. Chemicals does not work to lower the consumption. I decided for last step - DMSO. It perfectly cleans the engine inside. Consumption drops from 1 liter on 80 miles to 1 liter on 200 miles. I rebuild the engine for my own. Piston oil rings are stuck for mamy years and miles. DMSO cleans it but their stiffnes never go back and they leaking the oil to the piston crown. Unfortunately 3 pieces construction of oil rings does not help for their stiffnes.
If the BG Dynamic cleaner does not work (minimal success), I would like to suggest the next experiment be with purple pvc primer. I believe it's stronger than berrymans for a piston soak because of MEK which evaporates slower than acetone as it passes through the ring gaps. It's readily available (globally) at hardware stores and also contains one of the ingredients (cyclohexanone) used in BG EPR. After soaking the rings (1-2 days), the cylinders should be flushed with either MMO or mineral spirits/ATF mix. The flushing should be a combination of compressed air at TDC and cranking through spark plug holes on to a white towel until there are no more dark spots (light red atf.) None of the chemicals should be ran in the oil and an oil change should be performed at the end. A runner-up suggestion would be to use Stihl Decarbonizer (tetrasodium EDTA), but it is no longer sold (old stock) and making it and testing it is more involved. Evaporust may do the same thing as a selective chelating agent. The chelating solutions soften hard deposits on metal so they can be wiped or blown off.
Great followup video of the series as always and i would definitely continue to follow the series as it's very interesting learning for me. Thank you so much for this series 😊
I’ve got an ‘03 matrix with 330k on it (best estimate since the odo stopped at 299,999). Same engine, 1zzfe eats oil at a rate of 1 quart every 500 miles (miles tracked with trip A). I did increase oil capacity to 4.4 quarts as recommended by a TSB that came out eons ago, seemed to do nothing with oil consumption but topped off 1/2 inch above the top dot. Introduced a quart of Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer and blow by has been significantly reduced. TBD on oil consumption so far looks like oil level hasn’t changed. Inspected PVC valve and I’m under the impression that the baffle still operates as normal since I had no oil deposits. Cleaning the throttle body since I did notice oil deposits from the breather tube to the throttle body so I would assume I’m getting some blow by. Tried just about everything under the sun except change the oil seal stems but that’s a job way beyond my wheelhouse, so will continue to see how things go, these engines will run forever even with high oil consumption.
Thank you so much for the information about the oil level TSB. Even my independent mechanic who's a former master tech didn't know about this. When I had my last service at the Toyota dealership I thought they overfilled the oil, but now I know that they specifically measure out the capacity against their specs before pouring.
Yep my 01 Celica burned a quart every 250 as well yet still got 35 mpg. I did everything including a piston soak with Chem-Dip. Eventually just replaced the pistons and rings with 03+ and doesn’t burn anything now.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks man ! I watched it too. It's an interesting bunch of videos. I actually binged on it for hours and when you went radio silent, I was like "oh man !" :-) Remember that movie Overboard? "I almost had to wait !!". Love that movie. 😊
It's a weird feeling to hear when people think of these videos the way I think of others@@jeffh2125 Thanks for the kind comment! and Yes, Kurt and Goldie!
Two sparkplugs mainly indicate oil burning at higher levels in the cylinders, ie. valves, the other two indicate oil burining at the rings mainly. Also it seems to smoke most when it's revving, indicating failure of mainly valves. BG is a great product, with some luck it will clean it all out.
I have witnessed a catch can catching more oil by allowing a small amount of filtered cool air being allowed to enter the tube. A small air filter is placed up stream. The cool air allows the oil vapors to condense and collect in the filter trap.
It's good to see someone else from Spartanburg on here. I've been dealing with a very similar issue on a 2015 KIA Soul +. I've tried everything short of a head removal and full engine tear down. Cars the same years as mine have known engine issues that were covered under a recall. Mine wasn't but it should have. It's been a problem child since it was brand new off the lot. Dealer was less than helpful because they knew these cars had issues before we bought it. I won't call any names but if you eat at Wades, you have most likely seen it.
You might try a piston soak with Berrymans Chemtool. I've seen videos of that almost completely cleaning pistons just soaking for half an hour. I've also heard of guys using 1 part PB Blaster, 1 part acetone, and 2 parts ATF as a piston soak with good results. Could probably add the Berrymans into that mix as well. Also look for products high in phosphorous used for decarboning. However, it's very possible that your oil control rings have lost tension, in which case you can throw all the product you want at it, and it won't help.
Next time you have a thin wall hose like that try putting a spring inside it with help with curves while also preventing collapse. Great series I’m having the same issues with a RAV4 with the 2zfe.
Please take out the oil pan before the BG Dinamic Engine Cleaner to see the inside of the engine and may be scope the piston holes and then you can tell us if the product is worth it.
Wow we have twin cats! Our cat Poppy looks exactly the same as your fur baby. Coincidentaly I'm waiting for the very same oil catch can to arrive for my VW Golf TDi with 149K onthe clock. The EGR was clogged with an oily / sooty goo and it failed the emissions test. One new EGR and another 5K and the same thick sticky coating is reappearing. Lets hope the catch can, can reduce the oily air going into the intake and mixing with the exhanst gas from the EGR. By the way have you checked the PCV on your engine? If its blocked it might be pressurising the crankcase and pushing oil out of the engine seals.
Thanks for the walk down the trail and asking the question that deserves an answer. Helps keep things in perspective. As for your catch can, I think you have the same one I have. The baffle will unscrew from the top (may be tight but it does come off) and you can stuff some of the steel wool in it and screw it back in. The baffle should work without it but the steel wool will help condense the vapor even more.
One other note. There have been comments on the valve stem seals still leaking. To test this find a road that goes down hill and comes back up. Coast down the hill with the engine still in gear (clutch engaged) doing at least 45. When you start going up the hill accelerate pretty hard and look for smoke coming from your exhaust. This deceleration causes a significant vacuum, which will pull the oil past the valve stem seals if they’re bad.
I've just rebuilt my Volvo C30 engine. I tried everything you are doing. Berrymans put the engine light off for a while and slowed oil consumption but it came back. Did the stem seals cos the valves were wet. I stripped the engine expecting to find clogged oil rings but they were immaculate. Turned out to be the con rod big end bearings. They were heavily scored. I swapped the mains and piston rings too. Problem completely solved. Google - worn bearings oil consumption.... Because they are pressure fed, if the clearance is too big they flood the underside of the pistons and the control rings can't cope. I'm sure the pcv was overwhelmed too.
I wonder if heavier weight oil would decrease the burn in a situation like that. Or maybe it's negligible. I'm not sure if it's recommended to go heavier anyway.
I'm not sure if chemical cleaning is ever going to work in this particular engine. Depending on the amount of carbon build up on the valves, rings, seats, etc, it usually takes mechanical removal (ie. lapping) to get rid of that stuff. It can be hard as steel (carbon steel, lol). Not to mention wear and tear at 200k miles. So, IMHO, all roads lead to a rebuild. I think the damage was already done when you started your project, but it's been really interesting so far.
I would like to tell what I know about 0w-20 or 5w-20 motor oil. It's use was to trick the EPA 3 phase test, popularly known as the LA 4, to yield a higher FE #. The LA 4 is a "cold start" test that represents a drive through Las Angeles. That is where the "city" FE # is taken from. There are a couple things wrong with that test. 1st, it's done from a +76 degree F "cold" start. Nothing near what people think of as cold. 2nd: Then put super lightweight like 0w-20 or 5w-20 oil in the engine so there's very little viscosity drag on the engine moving parts. Thus tricking the EPA test. Of course it will get better FE or the few seconds it spends in a "cold" state of operation, but before a thicker oil can thin out from heat, the test is over. It's like having your thumb on the scale. Now for the worst part: That light oil is allowing "acceptable" wear on engine components. So we trade engine life for FE. That "acceptable" wear opens up passages far more quickly introducing oil consumption. Car mfr's don't care about 2nd hand owners, only the new car buyer and new car buyers don't usually drive much beyond the original warranty mileage limit. So, even if Dave pulled his pistons out and physically removed the deposit build up, the wear is irreversible. That's why I wouldn't bother w/ any more solvent based plans. The damage is done. OK, ben/ michigan
I noticed in an earlier video what looked to be wear on the cylinder walls. This is likely where the oil is slipping past the rings. It will be interesting to see if the engine restore product will mitigate the problem in any way. I have my doubts. At any rate, that engine will run forever as long as you keep oil in it.
Intake valve will suck oil past the seal when open (air is sucking into the cylinder). The exhaust stroke has pressure pushing out when the exhaust is open. You really can't suck oil through an exhaust valve seal so any oil is either getting by the rings or sucking past the intake valve oil seal. I had an Austin Healey Sprite with the 1250 cc engine. Didn't even call for oil seals on the exhaust side.
im just catching your videos now Dave, I had a 99 camry, similar engine, not as bad oil loss, it went to 400k. I got a free transmission radiator, as my local shop said they were the part of kits that customers didnt want- we put some lines on, and an inline filter. presto! a system with an extra quart of cleaner, cooler transmission fluid.
Dave - I haven’t watched the full series but several episodes of the key episodes… I think. Have you tried running with the PCV open to atmosphere and the hose to intake blocked? If the rings aren’t sealing, you have higher crankcase/PCV pressure, which puts more pressure on your valve stem seals too. Also, I can’t help but notice the oil in the spark plug holes, which always makes me think the crankcase pressure is pushing oil into these areas or the valve cover gasket is bad.
On one hand I hope you find the problem. On the other hand I don't want the videos to end. Also even if it is valve stem seals it would be interesting to see if an additive can fix it. I have a 2008 Toyota Hilux 2.5 diesel. And so far I have fixed a leaking transfer case and a leaking steering rack using leak stop additives.
I used a little Bar's and some Rislone transmission stop leak on the transfer case, and Lucas power steering stop leak on the steering rack. Took around 6-8 months for the steering to stop leaking, because it leaked quite a bit. Dont know how long it will hold, but its a fun experiment. @@FamilyFriendlyDIY
The thing with that catch can it needs to be baffled and not use a metallic sponge. On my STI I had a dual baffled catch can setup but oil was still passing since I’m on 40 lbs of boost so I changed over to an AOS where the hot coolant separates the oil vapor.
Oil catch can works better if it is located in a cooler place (and no insulation) to improve blow-by gases condensation and oil separation. Nicely done videos.
I don't think the new valve seals are leaking. I think the valve guides are leaking between the guides and the holes in the heads into which the guides are pressed. Many years ago, I had a 1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0 liter V6 that burnt oil and smoked at startup. The fix was to remove the heads and have a machine shop "stake" the valve guides into the heads to seal up the leaks. Your valves and intake runners are too wet for this problem to be bad piston rings. I think the valve guides are moving within the head and the pistons are sucking oil past the valve guides just like my Voyager did. What do you think, Dave?
Make sure your next catch can has a brass filter instead of the coiled wire. The brass filter actually filters! I recently changed to 2 new catch can with the brass filter and on both my Saab 9-7x 5.3 & my 2012 PriusV and they are noticeably better!
Sitting here in Sweden waiting expectantly and hoping you will find the solution to the problem that I also have on a Volvo V50. Thanks for the best videos on UA-cam. Have you not tested either 5W/40 or 5W/50 yet?
Just got to your channel, because I have a massive oil consumption. 2010 Scion xb RS 7. I'm just wondering, if they ever took that 4Runner off any sweet jumps.
Its the sweetest 4 runner ive ever seen !! I died laughing she new what u wonted to hear so she said it to funny !!! I know its hard for women to understand us car guys we are just very different but in a good way and when it comes to taking long trips u definitely wont us along for the ride !!
😁No ... seriously ... she wants and old 4 runner! .... The first vehicle she bought with her own money was a 1985 Toyota pickup! I've been told to keep my eyes out. Thanks for the comment Ricky!!
Hello Dave, I have watched many of your videos and have enjoyed them. But, it was'nt until this video that I realized you may live in Spartanburg. I recognized the Cottonwood Trail and when you stopped at the mailbox on Otis Blvd. Just thought I would say Hello from one Spartanburger to another...! Maybe we could meet sometime and have a cup of coffee? Keep up the good work..!
I noticed you have nice cylinder walls. The cross hatch looks really nice from what I can see as far as your intake valves go I think you have some oil coming in that way as well. You’re sucking oil past your intake guides valve guides your valve seals are leaking, it looks like a little bit as well as what some of the others are saying about your piston rings as far as oil can go. I had one on my diesel pick up turbo diesel. It required a 1 inch inlet an outlet to work properly so that I didn’t suck a lot of Fumes past the catch can and on into the inlet side of the turbo and they don’t like hoses being kinked either that makes a huge problem. They build back pressure in the crank case when the hoses kinked and you can blow seals and oil everywhere if that happens because the engine can’t breathe properly if that hose gets kinked anywhere along the line, but anyway, your cylinder cross hash looks pretty good. you also might try cleaning your intake. System a little bit better with Berryman B12, or something to get all the oil out of your intake system that might help clean the top of the pistons better as well in the top part of your valves and valve stems as well. I know you did that Berryman B12, cleaning a while back trying to get your rings to clear up but try cleaning your intake system as well to get rid of that excess oil that’s in your intake.
Since you say you have replaced the guide seals did you check the valve guides for wear? And how much was it. What is the crankcase pressure in inches of WATER . If you have oil above the valve seat then it's in the head.
Hi Dave, I've been following you since episode 2. I drive the Corolla with the same engine and almost the same mileage as yours. I'm also a qualified Toyota technician here in Australia. I know it won't make a lot of sense to you at first but after trying heaps of products myself, I finally found a fix by using Liqui Moly Ceratec. Yes, I know it doesn't say anything about freeing the piston rings or extra combustion, it just says extra protection. I added 1 bottle with my last engine oil change around 2,500 kms ago and oil is still at max level. You've tried a tonne of products who claim to do the job but don't, what's the harm in trying Ceratec for once???
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY @itsnotfunny8257 I really like ceratec, it is interesting that it contains moly seemingly in a solution of ammonia (ammonium molybdate?) which is arguably more effective and interesting than the small qty of hexagonal boron nitride that is claimed for the ceramic, diamond-like coating tech... (all this via msds).. perhaps the HBN does work but, at worst ceratec seems to be a next-gen version of mos2. The mos2 main failing is that it can get behind rings and stuff and as a moly suspension rather than solution, the used-up moly is difficult to remove from the crankcase. Whereas the ammonium-molybdate drains out with the sump. I've been running ceratec for nearly 50k miles in my Cayenne (98k-147k) with good results. This vehicle has other internal issues with the motor, but I'm hoping to continue to pile on the miles, for a while. These things are known for scored bores due to piston skirt scuffing, presumably bad tolerances in some batches of the motors. Mine was sounding less than optimal at 98k, but it seems to like the ceratec, so I will continue running it. What it does not like is oil changes beyond 5 or 6k even if a lot of highway miles. It's an expensive change, 9qts or so plus 2x bottles of the Ceratec. Wew. Running Rotella T6 5w-40 mostly, though I may soon switch to a Euro fs like M1. I really do think the Ceratec feels good in the motor, you can hear the difference when putting it in. I may be overapplying the HBN in terms of mileage, if it truly is forming a DLC in the EP areas (piston skirt to wall if scuffing conditions are present) but I've maintained about a 6% ratio as per the Liqui Moly instructions. It is just supposedly not necessary to run it at every oil chg, maybe using mos2 instead for a couple in between. I'm curious if the combination/alteration of them is somehow better, but LM says there is no harm in using Ceratec at each change. Except maybe to my wallet 😂 with the increasing mileage and the costs of maintenance (despite doing most of my own work) I might start experimentating... although I'd hate to let up on what's working... 😅 anyway enough of my anecdotes, I think there's still plenty to experiment with on the Corolla, engine restore and ceratec as well as archoil all come to mind 👍
1) (walk in the woods) Intelligent design: what a concept! 2) I wonder if a guy could put a piece of tubing around a valve seal & hook it to a low pressure pump & gauge (reverse brake bleeder pump), & see if it hold air pressure? I don't think there's any pressure on these normally, so I'd keep the pressure real low. This might (or might not) be a cheap, easy way to see if those valve seals are leaking (cheap & easy are my middle name).
I know you replaced the valve stem seals in another video, so maybe you did this already, but did you happen to check for worn valve guides when you redid the seals? Wear in the valve guides can compromise the seal, regardless if the seal is new, especially at certain RPMs where harmonics can come into play and the valve can vibrate at a frequency within gap of the worn guides. Also, the wear can allow the intake of air to pull a vacuum within the small valve guide gap and literally suck oil through the guide like a straw. valve stem seals are sort of metered seals, they should still allow some oil into the guide area to lubricate them, but not enough to cause oil consumption, but a worn guide can compromise this. You'll find oil mostly on the intake valves, rather than the exhaust valves when this is the case, as there is no vacuum being pulled on the exhaust valve guides. I don't think that it's worn guides, but it might be worthwhile to rule this out with monitoring a vacuum gauge and narrow it down to a ring seal problem by doing a leak-down test. I know you've done a compression test many times, but I haven't seen a leak down test performed yet to my knowledge. If you haven't heard of a leak-down test yet, it's a test that, rather than testing a the engine's ability to create pressure, it tests how well it's able to seal and keep that pressure. We commonly use the leakdown test in the auto repair industry to quickly assess if we're leaking any out of spec pressure and if so, where it is leaking from. If we hear or detect air coming out of the throttle body, we know we have air leaking past the valve seats, so we have a problem with the seal between the valve face and valve seat on the intake valves. If we hear or detect air escaping the exhaust, we know we have an exhaust valve problem (can attach a balloon to the exhaust to see if it inflates, as the air leakage may not be heard or felt). Otherwise, the cylinder could be leaking down past the rings (we'd detect it in the crankcase, usually air coming out of the oil fill cap hole or pcv system). The leakdown test will tell you which cylinders are problematic, based on the % leakdown of each cylinder. They should be pretty even in leakdown across all cylinders and not more than 20%. Something else to ponder. You've tried everything you can to unstick the rings. It may be possible that the rings are free, as evidenced by lower oil consumption, but some are not fully sealing well anymore due to wear on the rings, which can build enough compression, but not seal well against the higher pressures present from combustion occuring. I haven't seen you try the oil additive Engine Restore, which can help with ring sealing, the "ring job in a can" of sorts. May be worth trying after the BG package you just got. Of course, no additive in a can will replace an actual ring job, and is more of a bandaid, but it can be a worthwhile thing to try if tearing down the engine to replace rings and hone the cylinder walls is out of the equation.
Oh, which video and I'll check it out! I watched a bunch of them in the playlist but not all of them due to time and I'd love to check it out! EDIT: NVM a quick CTRL+F and I found the video. If you do end up trying Engine Restorer, I would be interested to see the before and after results of a leakdown test to see if it improved anything with the ring seal
After watching the leakdown video, I definitely don't think it's necessarily the compression rings or a poor valve seal. I'd think at this stage, you're either sucking oil in through worn valve guides, or the hypothesis you've been trying to tackle is true, partially stuck or worn oil control rings. Hope the BG stuff does the trick, otherwise, maybe give Engine Restorer a try. If anything, it'll be an interesting video to follow.
My 2011 Hyundai sonata gls recently went from burning 1Qt in 1000 miles to that in 500 so I'm curious about trying this Oil catch can as well as other things. I've got BG109 coming soon hoping that'll help some
Dave, have you tried ashless motor oils? Aircraft piston engines use ashless oil. Also, have you learned about Noack ratings? I’m new to your channel so you might have discussed this already. Finally, do the rings need further treatment to remove varnish? And have you measured blow-by? Re-treat to clean the rings, then run ashless oil.
Dave, you're having too much fun with yore bore scopes looking inside that engine where you usually can't. So, lets try BG solvent. Wouldn't it be neat if it worked? Ha. Yep. When you're all done, can we try a super thick oil mixture? Just for kix can we see if we can control the consumption by substantially increasing the thickness of the oil? I used 50% STP/ Motor Honey and 50% 70 weight Harley Davidson Motor Oil once and it worked like a charm. OK, well let's go have some more fun. ben/ michigan
Dave please try the Rislone high mileage engine treatment. 1 bottle for 600 miles and see what happens. Also do not get talked into that $250 BG's flush - As their website says its only for sludggy engines. Yours isn't sludge, its just crud in the oil rings that needs to be slowly cleaned away.
catch can is good but it does not increase crankcase vacuum....ATP 205 Might help the the seals. Remember the additives tend to reduce film strength as they remove deposits...so thinner oil will slip past the seals as well
Tried Berryman B12 couple of days ago on a 2003 honda accord 2.4liter manual transmission, everything worked great. Took it for the 20 minute on 3rd gear at 60mph, ended up burning the clutch. For accord owners with 5 speed manual, you can Rev to 4000rpm if you don't want to damage the clutch. Hope this helps someone. Car has 194.5k miles and the clutch was 20k miles used before the burnout
Hi Dave ! What I see on the cylinder walls, the honing scars are to deep !!! I think too much oil stays in those grooves, what the oil ring cant pull down !! So when the piston is going up pushing that oil top on the piston where is burn !!! That’s what I think , in your case check your other car cylinder wall which doesn’t burn oil , how deep is the honing grooves !!! It worth one shot , make video we can see the difference !!!
Yeah the honing honestly looks crazy to me, after seeing some other motors up close recently. Another comment said it looks like the engine may have been taken apart and had some kind of hone job in the past.
A lot of the treatments you’ve been using on that Corolla are really best suited for cars with GDI engines. I have a high mileage Kia soul that loves to carbon up. Berrymans B12, cut my oil consumption into a fifth of what it was. I’m going to be putting a catch on that car.
Been using something similar on my car. It does the job but it takes quite some of it if one of the pistons has a lot of build up. Mine had so much build up, it started throwing an engine light whenever there was rain in the air. Basically the engine had too much knock, combined with moisture in the air made the engine light go on. Used 2 whole bottles which are on their own, good for 400L of gassoline. I used half a bottle for 50L. After 2 bottles of it the car definitely got a lot of it's power back and consumes less petrol. The oil burning may become less if I make sure the piston is clean again.
@@mjobermeyer09 no, its a dacia logan from 2013. My first car was a diesel though. 1.7L cdti. Those engines were rock solid. Not a drip of oil consumption. So I got used to that and drove too long with the engine oil. Well close to empty and so one of the pistons got stuck on the highway one time and I suspect this is the result. Some scoring on the cilinder walls but cant say if the one with buildup is worse than the other 3.
Hello I just stumbled on your experiment. Have you changed the vale cover or explored clogged oil galleys in the areas around the breather and pcv ports on the valve cover?
It will be intersting to see if the BG Dynamic Engine Restore can clean up those rings. Also even if it cleans those almost impossible to clean rings it does not mean the rings are not abnormaly worn at this point and once clean will work like they should. Too many questions with zero answers. I am dealing with this same issue on a 2007 Toyota Camry 2AZFE engine. If I had owned the car from new I think I would never have had the issue. We bought it at 96K miles and by 120K miles it just started to consume oil and by 140K it was obvious. I have tried a lot of different things. I can reduce the consumption but have not been able to completly stop it! The problem is one of concentrations. By the time you get enough solvent or other common chemical into the oil in large enough abouts to clean you have compromised the oils ability to lubcricate the engine. I am sure that if you took the pistons out of the car and submerged each one in B12 Chemtool over night they would clean up easy. Trying to accomplish this though "in situ" might be mission impossible!
I am also on the crusade of cleaning the engine, instead of only going by brands I decided to learn about chemistry , the most successful chemical is not what you think , The best results are achieved by sulfonic Acids. They clean really well. Seems like Valvoline is adding them to all their oils and engine flush , but with different ratios.
Try a thicker oil like 20w 50 and see if the oil leaking into the intake stops. A valve stem could leaking in spite of new seals. And the oil is being sucked in past the seals. The rings could be leaking too. But the thinner oil is not helping stop leaks. I had an old mustang that smoked when I change the oil to 10w 30 and when I changed the oil to something thicker it stopped all together. It was an old engine so it could have let oil by 101 different ways. But it stopped with the thicker stuff. And I think it didn't burn oil anymore either. So 5 quarts in and 5 quarts out at the oil change. Spray some carb cleaner into the intake while its running to clean those out and onto the pistons when the plugs are out to give you a clean canvas to work with for the next check. It will be more clear what has changed. Just some stuff from watching you videos maybe you can use it. I have been messing with cars and engines my whole life. I would make videos but I don't have the skills for editing. Its not a lack training but maybe a lack of temperament? LOL JK on the last part. I really don't know where to start.
Evidence is in your videos , cylinder 1 has definitely a ring issue because there is an oil wash around the edge of the piston. But other cylinders don't have oil wash on the edge of pistons. I suggest an exchange of valve steams , it shouldn't be that difficult on this type of engine. Since there is so much oil behind the intake valves, it's a good sign that valve steams are leaking.
I’m voting for valve seals. Although like another poster said, lots of wear overall☹️ oh, you just said you have replaced them… I must’ve missed that video.
I have watched other UA-cam channels that try to figure out why their engine is burning oil. Some have found that there oil rings are not stuck; but their rings have lost their spring. New oil rings spring out wards pushing against the cylinder wall. When they pull the pistons out, the compression rings still spread outwards away from the piston, the oil compression ring looks like a wet noodle clinging to the side of the piston. Can't scrape oil of the piston wall if it does not spring outward to contact the piston wall. If this is the case with this engine it is unlikely the next treatment he plans on trying will have a significant long term effect on reducing oil consumption.
I have the exact same problem with my 2013 Highlander. I lose about a quart every 400 miles. I needed my pcp valve replaced for another issue and my mechanic told me my oil loss is from my rings. He told me I could try the bg products. I tried them on my own and they didn’t work. I’m still hoping one of these snake oils work.
Your average Joe tends to have a high pucker factor over rebuilds. I'm no pro, just an incurable tinkerer, but I've now done two (almost) complete vehicle restorations; a 1987 Squarebody Chevy pickup (in progress) and a 2002 BMW. It was intimidating at first but it really isn't as big a deal as you'd think. The interwebs provide so much info now and parts sourcing is easy. It really boils down to having the time to learn to do a job like that, the proper tools, and patience. Of course I also built my own house, so maybe I've lost perspective on relative difficulty... At any rate, when you decide to wave the white flag on chems, think of the mass of content a rebuild would provide. Not to mention entertaining and informing your viewers!
If BG fails, I will definitely at least attempt a rebuild. I've had the heads off a few vehicles, but this'll be the first time I extract pistons. I guess that's the natural next step in my learning process, so I'm almost hoping it comes to that. I'd love to "restore" this little thing and maybe do a big road trip with it.
I had a thought after my comments. I'm not sure there's any financial benefit to saving your little car. But if you're going to do it just to see if you can or for sentimental reasons or just to make some instructional videos... go for it. "How hard can it be?" --Jeremy Clarkson @@FamilyFriendlyDIY
The oil will burn off the pistons when running. If you have puddles of oil on your pistons it must get there when you turn it off. The oil must be coming from the head. Have you tried some 20/40 oil or straight 30w.
My guess would be: You're getting pretty high blow by from stuck/worn rings and the the valves need lapping. So the oil is going out through the valves rather than in from the intake. Not sure if that's possible but it's a fair guess. LOL, never mind, you said that exact thing at the end.....
Is the catch can makeing a difference at all. I is catching oil but how much? What percentage actually gets trapped vs what gets by? If it is catching 80% awesome, if it is catching 10% Is it really helping at all?
That stainless pad doesn’t go in the container like that. You cut a small bit off and put it in the small chamber on the bottom of the lid of the catch can.
Mr Dave, although you added the baffling in the form of the stainless steel wire/scourer which is good does it really stop the gas just coming in and then out? Like on better catch cans they will direct air out one way, sometimes even add a pipe on the inside so it goes to the bottom and then have the outlet offset and sometimes even with more baffling to stop the air/vapour from taking the shortest route out.
I can't really say without comparing another, but I think since it's fully stuffed with that pad, it gives enough surface area to get most of the liquid out.
Hey Dave👋 I commented on the previous video about the solvent properties of Berrymans B12 I’m the middle of a Berrymans B12 piston soak right now. 2010 Camry 2.5L 245k mi (alot of hwy miles). I found im currently using about 1.5qts every 1k miles. I’m decided to try to get on top of this before it gets worse. I should have results with a week from now assuming the flush doesn’t do something unexpected and ruin my engine 🙃
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was gonna wai til 1k miles but I can’t! I’m currently at 800 mi since my B12 piston soak and oil flush. I show no decrease in oil leve!😱 The oil is also super clean! I have a noticeable increase In power since the flush and the lifter/valve noises I had are also gone! I also had some black soot around my exhaust that I had to clean frequently…that hasn’t come back either I didn’t scope my cylinders but noticed a lot carbon come out my plug holes when clearing any remaining liquid from the cylinders. The Car Care Nut has also done a lot work on this specific issue and has made a good suggestion to do a 3k-5k mile /6mo oil change interval because my driving habits likely disqualify me from from the 10k mi/1 year. The low tension rings don’t help either…he took an engine apart to prove this. I’ll keep watching to see what happens to your car I’ve never subscribed to anything thing on UA-cam but this was worth it!
@@zachburns2122 hey Zach, did you crank the engine with the starter at the end of the soak with the plugs out to get the B12 out of the cylinders, is that when a lot of carbon came out the plug holes? Thanks!
@@basesperanca I got a lot carbon at that time and also when I used a shop vac attachment to poke into the plug hole and suck out any other liquid/carbon
That insulation you are using to create a "rat's nest" for the catch can looks like it would make a much better media inside the catch can than the brillo pad media -- sans the metal foil
Entire oil burning playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
I got the same catch can years ago from ebay. I has no baffles. The steel wool media is not filling the entire can but only the
the return port in the cap. I believe that's what the instructions said. Works good for me, it fills up within about 600M.
Increased crank case pressure. That's what you got after installing this type of catch can. Please get some cheap pressure sensor with oil cap , build it in cap and do the tests.
You can clearly see clean area on pistons that shows where the oil coming. Problem sits in piston rings, oil rings.
@@kondon-jt8jt I got them on Amazon for about $300 US
Have you noticed a difference in responsiveness or how it runs since the cleanings and can?
Have you ever contacted The Car Care Nut who is the Toyota specialist on here? Be great if you two guys could get together and do a strip down of your engine to determine the cause. Great work btw. Love these videos.
Yeah, that would be a great video.
The car care nut wil tell Dave to replace the entire bottom of the engine with a new one.
Engine fixed = The end of this channel!
@@Quoterpillar exactly. 😂
@@javierrodriguez3821 Depens if he sees some scoring on the cylinder walls. According to all the boroscop videos Dave made there is no obvious damage to the cylinder walls (yet). So a simple Piston+Ring replacement should be enough.
This really has been a wonderful series, you've done a deep dive into how this engine is consuming oil, I think it's time to take it to the next level, do a partial tear down, pull the engine, clean and inspect the pistons, replace the rings and whatever else is spent, if Toyota offers updated pistons I'd go ahead and do that, good luck
Dave , the pistons have some clean spots along the edges. Those are sings of ring wash. Oil is pushed up through the rings and that cleans the piston edge in the proces.
Agreed. Would be cheaper than multiple additives, catch cans etc. to pull the engine hone the walls and install new rings. Lapping the valves wouldn’t hurt since you’re in it. BUT that will end this series too 😉
Its the rings no doubt 25 years full time same job same place still doing it !! I unstick rings with Arrow kroll oil take the plugs out and spray in till about a inch or so deep on top of piston and let it set over night then crank the next day has worked for me on chain saws with no psi to runing saws just did a dirt bike honda wouldnt run ele start full let set over night took a few mins got it to run been starting with the touch of the button ever sense but in your case i think they are low Tension oil rings and are just wore i would try my way and if it dont work the motor would haft to come apart or be changed to correct the problem just me !! And when i say i just did it both motors with in the last 2 weeks both are back to full psi runing great !!
Again Dave, well done. This experiment just keeps getting pushed to the limit. I did think that the oil catch can would have more oil in it.
Thanks Thomas. I definitely did too! I'm learning every step of the way.
It’s funny to say that because the catch can on my car fills up frequently.
Lol, I did not expect the opportunity for philosophy & reflection today, ty. One of the fun things about following the saga of The 300 Mile Corolla
Thanks. After this one, I told my wife "I don't know why I put some of this random footage in there. I just can't help myself." Glad someone likes it :-)
I’m excited for the BG results. I did the BG Dynamic kit on my 2020 QX60 that had smoke at startup and sometimes at acceleration and was burning a quart every 500 miles. I’ve put on 2500 miles since doing the kit and have had no more smoke and the oil level is down only about an eighth from the top dot. In a few hundred more miles I’m going to check the plugs and pistons to see what they look like now, previously they were coated in carbon to the point of getting a misfire on one of the plugs.
That's awesome Ross. And if you would, please update with your findings!
We've used the BG dynamic kit at my work and we've seen some promising results. There are many manufacturers seeing oil consumption issues, and this kit has claims to address the sticking oil control rings. I can't wait to see the next video!
Thanks Jeremy! I'm hoping 🤞
Great content as usual! Waiting for the BG Platinum engine restore kit results!
Another great video! First thought was valve seals also but we know it's the rings?? BG is a great product but I don't think it can fix your problem, but what the heck, try it! Good luck!
Much appreciated!
One way to determine the amount of oil burned through the PCV is to disconnect the line leaving the pcv in place. The valve is essentially a pollution control device and as long as the engine can vent pressure to the outside the engine should run ok. If oil burning doesn't change then seals are probably the issue. But just looking at your plugs suggests the oil burning is occurring mostly in 1, 3 and 4 but not much in 2. Hints at bad seals when combined with oil residue in the intake ports. A sticky pvc can cause some problems such as idle issues from the vacuum leak, as well as oil burning. All the crap you've put in your oil might also have affected the pcv operation. Have you replaced your pcv? Not sure if I've seen you do that.
I have got the same problem with oil consumption in Ford Duratec engine and the same problem with oil on valves. Chemicals does not work to lower the consumption. I decided for last step - DMSO. It perfectly cleans the engine inside. Consumption drops from 1 liter on 80 miles to 1 liter on 200 miles. I rebuild the engine for my own. Piston oil rings are stuck for mamy years and miles. DMSO cleans it but their stiffnes never go back and they leaking the oil to the piston crown. Unfortunately 3 pieces construction of oil rings does not help for their stiffnes.
What is DMSO?
@@josemedeiros007 dimethyl sulfoxide chemical compound
😮 ohh...Dave uploaded...let me get my coffee... this is going to be good 👍... love this series.. 👍..
Much appreciated, Mike! I hope it doesn't disappoint.
If the BG Dynamic cleaner does not work (minimal success), I would like to suggest the next experiment be with purple pvc primer. I believe it's stronger than berrymans for a piston soak because of MEK which evaporates slower than acetone as it passes through the ring gaps. It's readily available (globally) at hardware stores and also contains one of the ingredients (cyclohexanone) used in BG EPR. After soaking the rings (1-2 days), the cylinders should be flushed with either MMO or mineral spirits/ATF mix. The flushing should be a combination of compressed air at TDC and cranking through spark plug holes on to a white towel until there are no more dark spots (light red atf.) None of the chemicals should be ran in the oil and an oil change should be performed at the end.
A runner-up suggestion would be to use Stihl Decarbonizer (tetrasodium EDTA), but it is no longer sold (old stock) and making it and testing it is more involved. Evaporust may do the same thing as a selective chelating agent. The chelating solutions soften hard deposits on metal so they can be wiped or blown off.
Thanks for the suggestions!
valve guides and seals are an easy job to do !!
Great followup video of the series as always and i would definitely continue to follow the series as it's very interesting learning for me. Thank you so much for this series 😊
Thanks so much for the kind comment. Much appreciated!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY My pleasure 😊
You can push a spring inside a hose to keep it from collapsing for sharp corner bends.
I’ve got an ‘03 matrix with 330k on it (best estimate since the odo stopped at 299,999). Same engine, 1zzfe eats oil at a rate of 1 quart every 500 miles (miles tracked with trip A). I did increase oil capacity to 4.4 quarts as recommended by a TSB that came out eons ago, seemed to do nothing with oil consumption but topped off 1/2 inch above the top dot. Introduced a quart of Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer and blow by has been significantly reduced. TBD on oil consumption so far looks like oil level hasn’t changed. Inspected PVC valve and I’m under the impression that the baffle still operates as normal since I had no oil deposits. Cleaning the throttle body since I did notice oil deposits from the breather tube to the throttle body so I would assume I’m getting some blow by. Tried just about everything under the sun except change the oil seal stems but that’s a job way beyond my wheelhouse, so will continue to see how things go, these engines will run forever even with high oil consumption.
i had an 01 rolla that ate a quart every 250 miles at 240k and that engine still had plenty of life in her that engine would kick
Thank you so much for the information about the oil level TSB. Even my independent mechanic who's a former master tech didn't know about this. When I had my last service at the Toyota dealership I thought they overfilled the oil, but now I know that they specifically measure out the capacity against their specs before pouring.
Yep my 01 Celica burned a quart every 250 as well yet still got 35 mpg. I did everything including a piston soak with Chem-Dip. Eventually just replaced the pistons and rings with 03+ and doesn’t burn anything now.
I'm curious what your next test may be? Thanks for the thorough videos and testing.
Just dropped it!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks man ! I watched it too. It's an interesting bunch of videos. I actually binged on it for hours and when you went radio silent, I was like "oh man !" :-) Remember that movie Overboard? "I almost had to wait !!". Love that movie. 😊
It's a weird feeling to hear when people think of these videos the way I think of others@@jeffh2125 Thanks for the kind comment! and Yes, Kurt and Goldie!
Looks like ring wash around the edge of the pistons where oil is getting past the rings and washing the top of the pistons around the edge.
I have that same oil catch can on my Honda Ridgeline. I get about 2 tablespoons of oil between each oil change.
Two sparkplugs mainly indicate oil burning at higher levels in the cylinders, ie. valves, the other two indicate oil burining at the rings mainly. Also it seems to smoke most when it's revving, indicating failure of mainly valves. BG is a great product, with some luck it will clean it all out.
I have witnessed a catch can catching more oil by allowing a small amount of filtered cool air being allowed to enter the tube. A small air filter is placed up stream. The cool air allows the oil vapors to condense and collect in the filter trap.
Ya bet he's got something going on with the valve guide
It's good to see someone else from Spartanburg on here. I've been dealing with a very similar issue on a 2015 KIA Soul +. I've tried everything short of a head removal and full engine tear down. Cars the same years as mine have known engine issues that were covered under a recall. Mine wasn't but it should have. It's been a problem child since it was brand new off the lot. Dealer was less than helpful because they knew these cars had issues before we bought it. I won't call any names but if you eat at Wades, you have most likely seen it.
Used to eat there every week when I was a kid :-)
You might try a piston soak with Berrymans Chemtool. I've seen videos of that almost completely cleaning pistons just soaking for half an hour.
I've also heard of guys using 1 part PB Blaster, 1 part acetone, and 2 parts ATF as a piston soak with good results. Could probably add the Berrymans into that mix as well.
Also look for products high in phosphorous used for decarboning.
However, it's very possible that your oil control rings have lost tension, in which case you can throw all the product you want at it, and it won't help.
He has done a Berrys Chemtool Soak look back
Next time you have a thin wall hose like that try putting a spring inside it with help with curves while also preventing collapse. Great series I’m having the same issues with a RAV4 with the 2zfe.
Thanks for the suggestion :-)
Thanks for the walk in the park. I miss the green. Desert living for a few years now.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Please take out the oil pan before the BG Dinamic Engine Cleaner to see the inside of the engine and may be scope the piston holes and then you can tell us if the product is worth it.
Doh!! too late!
Wow we have twin cats! Our cat Poppy looks exactly the same as your fur baby. Coincidentaly I'm waiting for the very same oil catch can to arrive for my VW Golf TDi with 149K onthe clock. The EGR was clogged with an oily / sooty goo and it failed the emissions test. One new EGR and another 5K and the same thick sticky coating is reappearing. Lets hope the catch can, can reduce the oily air going into the intake and mixing with the exhanst gas from the EGR. By the way have you checked the PCV on your engine? If its blocked it might be pressurising the crankcase and pushing oil out of the engine seals.
:-) ... Mine seems pretty clean, but thanks for the tip!
Very interesting! My old Tacoma doesn’t burn oil, but my catch can catches just as much oil as your Corolla…
Can’t wait for the next one 😉
Thanks for the walk down the trail and asking the question that deserves an answer. Helps keep things in perspective.
As for your catch can, I think you have the same one I have. The baffle will unscrew from the top (may be tight but it does come off) and you can stuff some of the steel wool in it and screw it back in. The baffle should work without it but the steel wool will help condense the vapor even more.
One other note. There have been comments on the valve stem seals still leaking. To test this find a road that goes down hill and comes back up. Coast down the hill with the engine still in gear (clutch engaged) doing at least 45. When you start going up the hill accelerate pretty hard and look for smoke coming from your exhaust. This deceleration causes a significant vacuum, which will pull the oil past the valve stem seals if they’re bad.
I've just rebuilt my Volvo C30 engine. I tried everything you are doing. Berrymans put the engine light off for a while and slowed oil consumption but it came back. Did the stem seals cos the valves were wet. I stripped the engine expecting to find clogged oil rings but they were immaculate. Turned out to be the con rod big end bearings. They were heavily scored. I swapped the mains and piston rings too. Problem completely solved. Google - worn bearings oil consumption.... Because they are pressure fed, if the clearance is too big they flood the underside of the pistons and the control rings can't cope. I'm sure the pcv was overwhelmed too.
I wonder if heavier weight oil would decrease the burn in a situation like that. Or maybe it's negligible. I'm not sure if it's recommended to go heavier anyway.
I'm not sure if chemical cleaning is ever going to work in this particular engine. Depending on the amount of carbon build up on the valves, rings, seats, etc, it usually takes mechanical removal (ie. lapping) to get rid of that stuff. It can be hard as steel (carbon steel, lol). Not to mention wear and tear at 200k miles. So, IMHO, all roads lead to a rebuild. I think the damage was already done when you started your project, but it's been really interesting so far.
I don't disagree, I think it's so odd that something temporarily worked though (the Berryman B12 soak IIRC). I love long term experiments.
I would like to tell what I know about 0w-20 or 5w-20 motor oil. It's use was to trick the EPA 3 phase test, popularly known as the LA 4, to yield a higher FE #. The LA 4 is a "cold start" test that represents a drive through Las Angeles. That is where the "city" FE # is taken from. There are a couple things wrong with that test. 1st, it's done from a +76 degree F "cold" start. Nothing near what people think of as cold. 2nd: Then put super lightweight like 0w-20 or 5w-20 oil in the engine so there's very little viscosity drag on the engine moving parts. Thus tricking the EPA test. Of course it will get better FE or the few seconds it spends in a "cold" state of operation, but before a thicker oil can thin out from heat, the test is over. It's like having your thumb on the scale. Now for the worst part: That light oil is allowing "acceptable" wear on engine components. So we trade engine life for FE. That "acceptable" wear opens up passages far more quickly introducing oil consumption. Car mfr's don't care about 2nd hand owners, only the new car buyer and new car buyers don't usually drive much beyond the original warranty mileage limit. So, even if Dave pulled his pistons out and physically removed the deposit build up, the wear is irreversible. That's why I wouldn't bother w/ any more solvent based plans. The damage is done. OK, ben/ michigan
Yeah, the B12 probably shook some of the outer gunk loose. So Dave did get an initial improvement.@@honeyforce996
I can't wait for the next one. I also enjoyed you philosophizing in nature. Thanks.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
I noticed in an earlier video what looked to be wear on the cylinder walls. This is likely where the oil is slipping past the rings.
It will be interesting to see if the engine restore product will mitigate the problem in any way. I have my doubts.
At any rate, that engine will run forever as long as you keep oil in it.
Intake valve will suck oil past the seal when open (air is sucking into the cylinder). The exhaust stroke has pressure pushing out when the exhaust is open. You really can't suck oil through an exhaust valve seal so any oil is either getting by the rings or sucking past the intake valve oil seal. I had an Austin Healey Sprite with the 1250 cc engine. Didn't even call for oil seals on the exhaust side.
im just catching your videos now Dave, I had a 99 camry, similar engine, not as bad oil loss, it went to 400k. I got a free transmission radiator, as my local shop said they were the part of kits that customers didnt want- we put some lines on, and an inline filter. presto! a system with an extra quart of cleaner, cooler transmission fluid.
Nice!
Dave - I haven’t watched the full series but several episodes of the key episodes… I think. Have you tried running with the PCV open to atmosphere and the hose to intake blocked? If the rings aren’t sealing, you have higher crankcase/PCV pressure, which puts more pressure on your valve stem seals too. Also, I can’t help but notice the oil in the spark plug holes, which always makes me think the crankcase pressure is pushing oil into these areas or the valve cover gasket is bad.
On one hand I hope you find the problem. On the other hand I don't want the videos to end. Also even if it is valve stem seals it would be interesting to see if an additive can fix it.
I have a 2008 Toyota Hilux 2.5 diesel. And so far I have fixed a leaking transfer case and a leaking steering rack using leak stop additives.
Thanks for the kind comment, and that's good info. What additives did you use?
I used a little Bar's and some Rislone transmission stop leak on the transfer case, and Lucas power steering stop leak on the steering rack. Took around 6-8 months for the steering to stop leaking, because it leaked quite a bit. Dont know how long it will hold, but its a fun experiment. @@FamilyFriendlyDIY
I am in the same boat i want him to find and fix the issue but dont want the videos to end.
KROIL unfreezes stuck pistons
Should give it a try
I live in Oregon. However, my step-son and his family live in Ridgeway. I love that area of South Carolina, when we visit.
The thing with that catch can it needs to be baffled and not use a metallic sponge. On my STI I had a dual baffled catch can setup but oil was still passing since I’m on 40 lbs of boost so I changed over to an AOS where the hot coolant separates the oil vapor.
that catch can has a baffel built into the screw on head
Oil catch can works better if it is located in a cooler place (and no insulation) to improve blow-by gases condensation and oil separation. Nicely done videos.
Thanks, and yes, the install was definitely less than ideal.
I don't think the new valve seals are leaking. I think the valve guides are leaking between the guides and the holes in the heads into which the guides are pressed. Many years ago, I had a 1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0 liter V6 that burnt oil and smoked at startup. The fix was to remove the heads and have a machine shop "stake" the valve guides into the heads to seal up the leaks. Your valves and intake runners are too wet for this problem to be bad piston rings. I think the valve guides are moving within the head and the pistons are sucking oil past the valve guides just like my Voyager did. What do you think, Dave?
Make sure your next catch can has a brass filter instead of the coiled wire. The brass filter actually filters! I recently changed to 2 new catch can with the brass filter and on both my Saab 9-7x 5.3 & my 2012 PriusV and they are noticeably better!
I was debating between the two but saw that someone did some tests that show the bronze ones can restrict airflow. How are you cleaning the filter?
Sitting here in Sweden waiting expectantly and hoping you will find the solution to the problem that I also have on a Volvo V50.
Thanks for the best videos on UA-cam.
Have you not tested either 5W/40 or 5W/50 yet?
Just got to your channel, because I have a massive oil consumption. 2010 Scion xb RS 7. I'm just wondering, if they ever took that 4Runner off any sweet jumps.
Its the sweetest 4 runner ive ever seen !! I died laughing she new what u wonted to hear so she said it to funny !!! I know its hard for women to understand us car guys we are just very different but in a good way and when it comes to taking long trips u definitely wont us along for the ride !!
😁No ... seriously ... she wants and old 4 runner! .... The first vehicle she bought with her own money was a 1985 Toyota pickup! I've been told to keep my eyes out. Thanks for the comment Ricky!!
I am always sitting here and suddenly notice that the video is almost at its end, thinking "Noo..... there is more to be done, I want to see more..."
Very much appreciated!
Hello Dave, I have watched many of your videos and have enjoyed them. But, it was'nt until this video that I realized you may live in Spartanburg. I recognized the Cottonwood Trail and when you stopped at the mailbox on Otis Blvd. Just thought I would say Hello from one Spartanburger to another...! Maybe we could meet sometime and have a cup of coffee? Keep up the good work..!
Hey :-) Thanks. ... I actually live in Greenville, but grew up in Spartanburg so I drive that way when wanting to get some miles in.
I noticed you have nice cylinder walls. The cross hatch looks really nice from what I can see as far as your intake valves go I think you have some oil coming in that way as well. You’re sucking oil past your intake guides valve guides your valve seals are leaking, it looks like a little bit as well as what some of the others are saying about your piston rings as far as oil can go. I had one on my diesel pick up turbo diesel. It required a 1 inch inlet an outlet to work properly so that I didn’t suck a lot of Fumes past the catch can and on into the inlet side of the turbo and they don’t like hoses being kinked either that makes a huge problem. They build back pressure in the crank case when the hoses kinked and you can blow seals and oil everywhere if that happens because the engine can’t breathe properly if that hose gets kinked anywhere along the line, but anyway, your cylinder cross hash looks pretty good. you also might try cleaning your intake. System a little bit better with Berryman B12, or something to get all the oil out of your intake system that might help clean the top of the pistons better as well in the top part of your valves and valve stems as well. I know you did that Berryman B12, cleaning a while back trying to get your rings to clear up but try cleaning your intake system as well to get rid of that excess oil that’s in your intake.
Since you say you have replaced the guide seals did you check the valve guides for wear? And how much was it. What is the crankcase pressure in inches of WATER . If you have oil above the valve seat then it's in the head.
Really cool video as usual. When does the turbo Supra build start?
Thanks :-) and whew, I haven't even seen a classic Supra on the road in years!
Hi Dave, I've been following you since episode 2. I drive the Corolla with the same engine and almost the same mileage as yours. I'm also a qualified Toyota technician here in Australia. I know it won't make a lot of sense to you at first but after trying heaps of products myself, I finally found a fix by using Liqui Moly Ceratec. Yes, I know it doesn't say anything about freeing the piston rings or extra combustion, it just says extra protection. I added 1 bottle with my last engine oil change around 2,500 kms ago and oil is still at max level. You've tried a tonne of products who claim to do the job but don't, what's the harm in trying Ceratec for once???
Will it cause problems breaking in new rings?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY well if you're only replacing the rings and not the short block or pistons, it will not.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY @itsnotfunny8257 I really like ceratec, it is interesting that it contains moly seemingly in a solution of ammonia (ammonium molybdate?) which is arguably more effective and interesting than the small qty of hexagonal boron nitride that is claimed for the ceramic, diamond-like coating tech... (all this via msds).. perhaps the HBN does work but, at worst ceratec seems to be a next-gen version of mos2. The mos2 main failing is that it can get behind rings and stuff and as a moly suspension rather than solution, the used-up moly is difficult to remove from the crankcase. Whereas the ammonium-molybdate drains out with the sump. I've been running ceratec for nearly 50k miles in my Cayenne (98k-147k) with good results. This vehicle has other internal issues with the motor, but I'm hoping to continue to pile on the miles, for a while. These things are known for scored bores due to piston skirt scuffing, presumably bad tolerances in some batches of the motors. Mine was sounding less than optimal at 98k, but it seems to like the ceratec, so I will continue running it. What it does not like is oil changes beyond 5 or 6k even if a lot of highway miles. It's an expensive change, 9qts or so plus 2x bottles of the Ceratec. Wew. Running Rotella T6 5w-40 mostly, though I may soon switch to a Euro fs like M1. I really do think the Ceratec feels good in the motor, you can hear the difference when putting it in. I may be overapplying the HBN in terms of mileage, if it truly is forming a DLC in the EP areas (piston skirt to wall if scuffing conditions are present) but I've maintained about a 6% ratio as per the Liqui Moly instructions. It is just supposedly not necessary to run it at every oil chg, maybe using mos2 instead for a couple in between. I'm curious if the combination/alteration of them is somehow better, but LM says there is no harm in using Ceratec at each change. Except maybe to my wallet 😂 with the increasing mileage and the costs of maintenance (despite doing most of my own work) I might start experimentating... although I'd hate to let up on what's working... 😅 anyway enough of my anecdotes, I think there's still plenty to experiment with on the Corolla, engine restore and ceratec as well as archoil all come to mind 👍
1) (walk in the woods) Intelligent design: what a concept! 2) I wonder if a guy could put a piece of tubing around a valve seal & hook it to a low pressure pump & gauge (reverse brake bleeder pump), & see if it hold air pressure? I don't think there's any pressure on these normally, so I'd keep the pressure real low. This might (or might not) be a cheap, easy way to see if those valve seals are leaking (cheap & easy are my middle name).
Our parents must have been looking through the same book of names ;-)
All 66 of them.@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
I know you replaced the valve stem seals in another video, so maybe you did this already, but did you happen to check for worn valve guides when you redid the seals? Wear in the valve guides can compromise the seal, regardless if the seal is new, especially at certain RPMs where harmonics can come into play and the valve can vibrate at a frequency within gap of the worn guides. Also, the wear can allow the intake of air to pull a vacuum within the small valve guide gap and literally suck oil through the guide like a straw. valve stem seals are sort of metered seals, they should still allow some oil into the guide area to lubricate them, but not enough to cause oil consumption, but a worn guide can compromise this. You'll find oil mostly on the intake valves, rather than the exhaust valves when this is the case, as there is no vacuum being pulled on the exhaust valve guides.
I don't think that it's worn guides, but it might be worthwhile to rule this out with monitoring a vacuum gauge and narrow it down to a ring seal problem by doing a leak-down test. I know you've done a compression test many times, but I haven't seen a leak down test performed yet to my knowledge. If you haven't heard of a leak-down test yet, it's a test that, rather than testing a the engine's ability to create pressure, it tests how well it's able to seal and keep that pressure. We commonly use the leakdown test in the auto repair industry to quickly assess if we're leaking any out of spec pressure and if so, where it is leaking from. If we hear or detect air coming out of the throttle body, we know we have air leaking past the valve seats, so we have a problem with the seal between the valve face and valve seat on the intake valves. If we hear or detect air escaping the exhaust, we know we have an exhaust valve problem (can attach a balloon to the exhaust to see if it inflates, as the air leakage may not be heard or felt). Otherwise, the cylinder could be leaking down past the rings (we'd detect it in the crankcase, usually air coming out of the oil fill cap hole or pcv system). The leakdown test will tell you which cylinders are problematic, based on the % leakdown of each cylinder. They should be pretty even in leakdown across all cylinders and not more than 20%.
Something else to ponder. You've tried everything you can to unstick the rings. It may be possible that the rings are free, as evidenced by lower oil consumption, but some are not fully sealing well anymore due to wear on the rings, which can build enough compression, but not seal well against the higher pressures present from combustion occuring. I haven't seen you try the oil additive Engine Restore, which can help with ring sealing, the "ring job in a can" of sorts. May be worth trying after the BG package you just got. Of course, no additive in a can will replace an actual ring job, and is more of a bandaid, but it can be a worthwhile thing to try if tearing down the engine to replace rings and hone the cylinder walls is out of the equation.
Lot's of good info here. Thanks for the suggestions! ... I did do a leak-down test video ... though who's to say I did it correctly?
Oh, which video and I'll check it out! I watched a bunch of them in the playlist but not all of them due to time and I'd love to check it out! EDIT: NVM a quick CTRL+F and I found the video. If you do end up trying Engine Restorer, I would be interested to see the before and after results of a leakdown test to see if it improved anything with the ring seal
After watching the leakdown video, I definitely don't think it's necessarily the compression rings or a poor valve seal. I'd think at this stage, you're either sucking oil in through worn valve guides, or the hypothesis you've been trying to tackle is true, partially stuck or worn oil control rings. Hope the BG stuff does the trick, otherwise, maybe give Engine Restorer a try. If anything, it'll be an interesting video to follow.
My 2011 Hyundai sonata gls recently went from burning 1Qt in 1000 miles to that in 500 so I'm curious about trying this Oil catch can as well as other things. I've got BG109 coming soon hoping that'll help some
Catch cans may stop the oil from burning and ruining engine parts, but it doesn't really solve the initial problem.
Dave, have you tried ashless motor oils? Aircraft piston engines use ashless oil. Also, have you learned about Noack ratings? I’m new to your channel so you might have discussed this already. Finally, do the rings need further treatment to remove varnish? And have you measured blow-by? Re-treat to clean the rings, then run ashless oil.
I can't believe your cat isn't clogged. If flow is impeded it could become a cyclical issue.
Dave, you're having too much fun with yore bore scopes looking inside that engine where you usually can't. So, lets try BG solvent. Wouldn't it be neat if it worked? Ha. Yep. When you're all done, can we try a super thick oil mixture? Just for kix can we see if we can control the consumption by substantially increasing the thickness of the oil? I used 50% STP/ Motor Honey and 50% 70 weight Harley Davidson Motor Oil once and it worked like a charm. OK, well let's go have some more fun. ben/ michigan
That is an awesome scope!!! What brand is it?
Depstech DS550
Hey try to replace the valve cover gaskets spark plug seals. Do you have oil on your plugs?
Dave please try the Rislone high mileage engine treatment. 1 bottle for 600 miles and see what happens. Also do not get talked into that $250 BG's flush - As their website says its only for sludggy engines. Yours isn't sludge, its just crud in the oil rings that needs to be slowly cleaned away.
Could try putting some valve stem seals in it. But the piston wash makes it pretty obvious it's still rings.
catch can is good but it does not increase crankcase vacuum....ATP 205 Might help the the seals. Remember the additives tend to reduce film strength as they remove deposits...so thinner oil will slip past the seals as well
Tried Berryman B12 couple of days ago on a 2003 honda accord 2.4liter manual transmission, everything worked great. Took it for the 20 minute on 3rd gear at 60mph, ended up burning the clutch. For accord owners with 5 speed manual, you can Rev to 4000rpm if you don't want to damage the clutch. Hope this helps someone. Car has 194.5k miles and the clutch was 20k miles used before the burnout
Great video bro I to have oil burning in my Toyota 😢😢 so watch ur videos to see if I can fix it b4 taking it out to a mechanic 😢😢
I feel for ya.
You should of put a catch can on the cam cover breather hose
Hi Dave ! What I see on the cylinder walls, the honing scars are to deep !!! I think too much oil stays in those grooves, what the oil ring cant pull down !! So when the piston is going up pushing that oil top on the piston where is burn !!! That’s what I think , in your case check your other car cylinder wall which doesn’t burn oil , how deep is the honing grooves !!! It worth one shot , make video we can see the difference !!!
Yeah the honing honestly looks crazy to me, after seeing some other motors up close recently. Another comment said it looks like the engine may have been taken apart and had some kind of hone job in the past.
I hope these videos are doing well for you. I didn't realize this was number 28
A lot of the treatments you’ve been using on that Corolla are really best suited for cars with GDI engines. I have a high mileage Kia soul that loves to carbon up. Berrymans B12, cut my oil consumption into a fifth of what it was. I’m going to be putting a catch on that car.
Been using something similar on my car. It does the job but it takes quite some of it if one of the pistons has a lot of build up. Mine had so much build up, it started throwing an engine light whenever there was rain in the air. Basically the engine had too much knock, combined with moisture in the air made the engine light go on. Used 2 whole bottles which are on their own, good for 400L of gassoline. I used half a bottle for 50L. After 2 bottles of it the car definitely got a lot of it's power back and consumes less petrol. The oil burning may become less if I make sure the piston is clean again.
@@aominelaw981 is your car the Kia soul?
@@mjobermeyer09 no, its a dacia logan from 2013. My first car was a diesel though. 1.7L cdti. Those engines were rock solid. Not a drip of oil consumption. So I got used to that and drove too long with the engine oil. Well close to empty and so one of the pistons got stuck on the highway one time and I suspect this is the result. Some scoring on the cilinder walls but cant say if the one with buildup is worse than the other 3.
Hello I just stumbled on your experiment. Have you changed the vale cover or explored clogged oil galleys in the areas around the breather and pcv ports on the valve cover?
It will be intersting to see if the BG Dynamic Engine Restore can clean up those rings. Also even if it cleans those almost impossible to clean rings it does not mean the rings are not abnormaly worn at this point and once clean will work like they should. Too many questions with zero answers.
I am dealing with this same issue on a 2007 Toyota Camry 2AZFE engine. If I had owned the car from new I think I would never have had the issue. We bought it at 96K miles and by 120K miles it just started to consume oil and by 140K it was obvious. I have tried a lot of different things. I can reduce the consumption but have not been able to completly stop it!
The problem is one of concentrations. By the time you get enough solvent or other common chemical into the oil in large enough abouts to clean you have compromised the oils ability to lubcricate the engine. I am sure that if you took the pistons out of the car and submerged each one in B12 Chemtool over night they would clean up easy. Trying to accomplish this though "in situ" might be mission impossible!
I am also on the crusade of cleaning the engine, instead of only going by brands I decided to learn about chemistry , the most successful chemical is not what you think , The best results are achieved by sulfonic Acids. They clean really well. Seems like Valvoline is adding them to all their oils and engine flush , but with different ratios.
We will see some final conclusions in this year before Christmas :-)
good stuff - keep em coming
Thanks!
Try a thicker oil like 20w 50 and see if the oil leaking into the intake stops. A valve stem could leaking in spite of new seals. And the oil is being sucked in past the seals. The rings could be leaking too. But the thinner oil is not helping stop leaks.
I had an old mustang that smoked when I change the oil to 10w 30 and when I changed the oil to something thicker it stopped all together. It was an old engine so it could have let oil by 101 different ways. But it stopped with the thicker stuff. And I think it didn't burn oil anymore either. So 5 quarts in and 5 quarts out at the oil change.
Spray some carb cleaner into the intake while its running to clean those out and onto the pistons when the plugs are out to give you a clean canvas to work with for the next check. It will be more clear what has changed. Just some stuff from watching you videos maybe you can use it. I have been messing with cars and engines my whole life. I would make videos but I don't have the skills for editing. Its not a lack training but maybe a lack of temperament? LOL JK on the last part. I really don't know where to start.
Evidence is in your videos , cylinder 1 has definitely a ring issue because there is an oil wash around the edge of the piston. But other cylinders don't have oil wash on the edge of pistons. I suggest an exchange of valve steams , it shouldn't be that difficult on this type of engine. Since there is so much oil behind the intake valves, it's a good sign that valve steams are leaking.
I’m voting for valve seals. Although like another poster said, lots of wear overall☹️ oh, you just said you have replaced them… I must’ve missed that video.
Love the work
Ready to c how the next one turn out
Thanks!
Nice video once again Dave.
Been following from the beginning, if we are saying stuck rings why is there no obvious scoring on cylinder walls. I
I have watched other UA-cam channels that try to figure out why their engine is burning oil. Some have found that there oil rings are not stuck; but their rings have lost their spring. New oil rings spring out wards pushing against the cylinder wall. When they pull the pistons out, the compression rings still spread outwards away from the piston, the oil compression ring looks like a wet noodle clinging to the side of the piston. Can't scrape oil of the piston wall if it does not spring outward to contact the piston wall. If this is the case with this engine it is unlikely the next treatment he plans on trying will have a significant long term effect on reducing oil consumption.
Thanks, and good question. I think we're getting close to the end, so hopefully we'll soon see what's going on.
I have the exact same problem with my 2013 Highlander. I lose about a quart every 400 miles. I needed my pcp valve replaced for another issue and my mechanic told me my oil loss is from my rings. He told me I could try the bg products. I tried them on my own and they didn’t work. I’m still hoping one of these snake oils work.
What a detour. Wasn't sure which video I clicked on at one point
Your average Joe tends to have a high pucker factor over rebuilds. I'm no pro, just an incurable tinkerer, but I've now done two (almost) complete vehicle restorations; a 1987 Squarebody Chevy pickup (in progress) and a 2002 BMW. It was intimidating at first but it really isn't as big a deal as you'd think. The interwebs provide so much info now and parts sourcing is easy. It really boils down to having the time to learn to do a job like that, the proper tools, and patience. Of course I also built my own house, so maybe I've lost perspective on relative difficulty...
At any rate, when you decide to wave the white flag on chems, think of the mass of content a rebuild would provide. Not to mention entertaining and informing your viewers!
If BG fails, I will definitely at least attempt a rebuild. I've had the heads off a few vehicles, but this'll be the first time I extract pistons. I guess that's the natural next step in my learning process, so I'm almost hoping it comes to that. I'd love to "restore" this little thing and maybe do a big road trip with it.
I had a thought after my comments. I'm not sure there's any financial benefit to saving your little car. But if you're going to do it just to see if you can or for sentimental reasons or just to make some instructional videos... go for it.
"How hard can it be?"
--Jeremy Clarkson @@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Came to fix the oil burning, stayed to watch butterflies and listen to birds.
Are you going to try to do a piston ring replacement job?
Ultimately.
The oil will burn off the pistons when running. If you have puddles of oil on your pistons it must get there when you turn it off. The oil must be coming from the head. Have you tried some 20/40 oil or straight 30w.
My guess would be: You're getting pretty high blow by from stuck/worn rings and the the valves need lapping. So the oil is going out through the valves rather than in from the intake. Not sure if that's possible but it's a fair guess. LOL, never mind, you said that exact thing at the end.....
Is the catch can makeing a difference at all. I is catching oil but how much? What percentage actually gets trapped vs what gets by? If it is catching 80% awesome, if it is catching 10% Is it really helping at all?
That stainless pad doesn’t go in the container like that. You cut a small bit off and put it in the small chamber on the bottom of the lid of the catch can.
Perfect time to try a HHO generator 😀
That BG dynamic kit is expensive at $300 dollars on Amazon, have you made a video on it yet? Can you add the video's related in your video details?
Just dropped it today, Jose!! ua-cam.com/video/C-yCCdMXscs/v-deo.html
Can't wait. My 98 has burned oil since 60+k.
Mr Dave, although you added the baffling in the form of the stainless steel wire/scourer which is good does it really stop the gas just coming in and then out? Like on better catch cans they will direct air out one way, sometimes even add a pipe on the inside so it goes to the bottom and then have the outlet offset and sometimes even with more baffling to stop the air/vapour from taking the shortest route out.
I can't really say without comparing another, but I think since it's fully stuffed with that pad, it gives enough surface area to get most of the liquid out.
Hey Dave👋 I commented on the previous video about the solvent properties of Berrymans B12
I’m the middle of a Berrymans B12 piston soak right now.
2010 Camry 2.5L 245k mi (alot of hwy miles). I found im currently using about 1.5qts every 1k miles. I’m decided to try to get on top of this before it gets worse.
I should have results with a week from now assuming the flush doesn’t do something unexpected and ruin my engine 🙃
I'm rooting for you Zach!👍👍
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
I was gonna wai til 1k miles but I can’t!
I’m currently at 800 mi since my B12 piston soak and oil flush. I show no decrease in oil leve!😱 The oil is also super clean!
I have a noticeable increase In power since the flush and the lifter/valve noises I had are also gone! I also had some black soot around my exhaust that I had to clean frequently…that hasn’t come back either
I didn’t scope my cylinders but noticed a lot carbon come out my plug holes when clearing any remaining liquid from the cylinders.
The Car Care Nut has also done a lot work on this specific issue and has made a good suggestion to do a 3k-5k mile /6mo oil change interval because my driving habits likely disqualify me from from the 10k mi/1 year. The low tension rings don’t help either…he took an engine apart to prove this.
I’ll keep watching to see what happens to your car I’ve never subscribed to anything thing on UA-cam but this was worth it!
@@zachburns2122 hey Zach, did you crank the engine with the starter at the end of the soak with the plugs out to get the B12 out of the cylinders, is that when a lot of carbon came out the plug holes? Thanks!
@@basesperanca I got a lot carbon at that time and also when I used a shop vac attachment to poke into the plug hole and suck out any other liquid/carbon
@@zachburns2122 make sense, cheers and thanks!
dude, that 4runner was pretty sweet
That insulation you are using to create a "rat's nest" for the catch can looks like it would make a much better media inside the catch can than the brillo pad media -- sans the metal foil
Yeeeees finally 📺 where is my popcorn 🍿