By using this kind of oil catch can you raising pressure inside crank. Need to use something like Provent by Mann. There's a channel where guys places a pressure sensor inside crankcase and he measures pressure in stock, with this kind of catch can and woth Mann/hummel provent. Stock and provent were nearly identical, with the catch can like in video the pressure is higher than normal. So the catch can has to be adequate to engine blowby...
There are two sides to the Crankcase vent system. The PCV side that operates during idle and cruise conditions, connected to the intake manifold and the overflow side, the larger hose on the rocker cover that pushes combustion gases into the throttle body inlet at WOT. you can put catch cans on both sides. Don't change/disconnect how it operates otherwise you will be breathing blowby at the traffic lights. I use to have a 4cyl engine that use to fowel up number 4 sparkplug with crusty carbon. The vacuum take off was where number 4 runner was. I built and installed a self draining catchcan and never had to clean up that plug again.
I was wondering about the other side. I have a 4th generation 4runner V8 and was wondering if I should put in two catch cans. I don't have an oil issue, yet but I would like to keep it burning as clean as possible. I haven't seen anyone add a second one. Do you have any links I could check out? BTW what is WOT? TIA
Dave, Your calm and kind demeener along with you Bible references are most appreciated. You are a very blessed and appreciated soul. Please keep up the great work in helping your fellow man and being a steadfast and dillegent parent. Peace Be Unto You and all of your wonderful family, My Friend.
Dave. Watch your oil experiment and love it. I installed the same catch can on my 1990 22 RE Toyota P/U. A hint because instructions ae nill for function. 1. Unscrew and remove dip stick. 2. Unscrew the reservoir and remove the filter media brillow stuff. 3. On the top of the in, and outlet unit there is a round piece with holes in it that unscrews. Unscrew it and take some or the steel media and stuff it in the inside of that some what tight and screw it back in finger tight. As the blow by comes threw that media it collects and drips down into the reservoir allowing you to monitor the amount of oil that is captured in the miles between when have to add oil. Otherwise your going to have a huge wad of steel media and a mess to replace and no way to monitor your results. The sell that media material at Home Depot pretty cheep. I've seen so many You Tube installations of these catch cans done wrong. You Tuber Ray Nada had the same issue as you, and after many months and many You Tube episodes he found out he had broken rings. Check him out. Very helpful and he is a very good guy. He responds to all messages. Keep em coming. Love the saga of the little Toyo. Mike Regan Modesto Ca PS Dump that crappie hose in the kit and go to the auto parts store and get a new piece as it will crimp and restrict flow.
Indeed. The lower part must be just a reservoir to hold oil. Don't try to put all the steel wool above the baffle. Just as much as you can cram in there.
Very good analysis on the PCV valve bro. Let me just point out that not only oil mist (small oil particles in liquid form) goes through the PCV valve. There is also oil vapor (evaporated oil due to high internal temp of the engine - gaseous form) I conducted study on this too. I installed an aluminum catch can on my 2NZ-FE engine. The catch can can only catch the liquid oil mist, but it can not catch the oil vapor in gaseous form. That is why even tho I have a catch can Installed, my sparkplugs still got coated with a thin layer of carbon. The oil vapor tends to condense back to liquid form upon entering the intake manifold (cooled by ambient air) and I have observed that there is still oil inside my intake manifold after installing the catch can. So here's what I did to further improve the efficiency of the catch can. from the PCV valve I installed an in-line oil condenser (like a small intercooler / a Gaming PC Radiator will do) This will cool down the hot air coming out of the PCV valve. And Oil will condense inside this small radiator. once in liquid form. It will be easier for the catch can to catch the oil and prevent it from entering the intake manifold. Sequence: PCV Valve --> Oil Condenser / Radiator --> Catch Can --> Intake manifold. Still conducting further study on this setup on how efficient it is in preventing oil from passing through. currently comparing the amount of oil in the catch can vs the amount of oil I need to top up. It only takes a bit of time since my engine only burns like 1qt. of oil every 3000 miles and my daily travel from home to work is only 23 miles (1 way)
This is a great series DIY dave... Even in reversion.. burning or vaporized oil is happening in the combustion chamber first.... presumably caused by stuck rings... has anyone tried to add small amounts of brake parts cleaner AKA dry cleaning fluid as a solvent..... Or any of the off-the-shelf solvents... In combination with using two rods driven by opposed eccentrics like bicycle cranks turned by a drill causing piston to rock back and forth to help solvent free the rings.... I tried the above on cyl. #4 only which had a fouled plug skipping for 30 secs. From cold.. MPG went from 33.6 first tank to 32 2nd tank then 30 last wkk... Most recently it was getting between 26-28.…. And 2k Corolla 183k never achieved better than 29 over 15 years as long as I've had it... This was such a huge improvement I've since just repeated across all four cylinders ...filled tank and waiting for next MPG average... BTW performance improved likewise alongside the 12 to 15% MPG improvement... When it was doing that.. and gradually decreased with the mpg decreases.. also just started taking compression cranking with throttle open 180 200 210 200. I didn't take them with the throttle open the first time so the before baseline numbers not relevant. It was a last-minute after thought taking the compression but MPGs are being kept track and also oil consumption never was too bad about 3k / qt. Hopefully with these tips I can get where it can stretch 5K and never have to add oil . Haha... 😊
Want to thank you for this series I just watched all your videos. Did the Barryman pistons soak for 36 hours on a Chevy Aveo with 260000. Was smoking quite consistently but after the procedure and new oil, the smoke pretty much disappeared.
I want to thank you for commenting... I've been having severe constipation for a week and when I read you have a Chevy Aveo with almost 300k I swiftly pooped my pants...
@@Mikegastaldo actually 260298 to be exact. Is an old lady car probably is the only reason it has make it so far. Glad to help you with your intestinal problems.
One thing about the hoses that come with the catch can, they're flimsy and sometimes collapse on themselves. Check periodically. Waiting on part 2. Good stuff.
Hi Dave, I love your videos and have redirected lots of 1ZZ engine owners to them, mostly Celica 1ZZ but it is still good info. I think from watching the operation of your PCV valve it might be gummed up inside. They are usually really loose, you should be able to hear it rattle back and forward if you shake it. When I remove the one from my 2ZZ to check it, it rattled but was not a clear metallic sound like a new one. Cleaning it our with carb cleaner removed a lot of burnt / solidified oil. It might be worth rechecking you, unless you already did this off camera. There are a few examples on UA-cam if you want to see what it should sound like. This might even be why so much oil is getting past it as it should prevent liquid oil getting sucked into the inlet. Cheers Andrew
Your description and understand are relatively accurate. The PCV works off combined differential pressure. A combination of engine case pressure and vacuum working together against the spring. When the engine is running the PCV never actually closes. It is a metered / controlled volume leak. The PCV valve has 2 seats - a plunger and a spring. A tapered shaft protrudes through a hole on the vac side acting as a metering pin and a flat seat on the crankcase side. The spring holds the valve down against the crankcase / pressure side. Vacuum is the more overwhelming force in play. When the engine idles, vac is high but case pressure is low. The valve is drawn by vac into the limiting mode with the taper in the hole. At cruise speeds the vac is low but the case pressure is higher, pushing the plunger off it's case pressure seat balanced by spring pressure. PCV valve. Your oil rings are done. The oil in your intake is from a condition called " reversion " During the valve overlap cycle between the exhaust and intake the air reverses direction in microseconds. During cruise operation - the air does not have time or energy to change directions, and the oil is burned and exhausted through the pipes, but when the engine is idling or being operated at very low rpm's - exhaust pressure in the manifold / pipe is forcing air to change directions creating a backwards pulse during the cam exhaust / intake overlap cycle. This pulse carries oil vapor into the the intake where the air is cooler and the vapor oil now condenses into liquid oil deposits inside the lowest points of the intake. Please look up " reversion " as it applies to piston engines. www.lightningheaders.com/tech-info(2).htm
This is a great comment. Lots of good info here. I didn't know that about the backwards pulse ... So it's totally possible to have oil around the valves and in the intake with the valve seals working as they should and little PCV blowby?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY PCV blow by ? The PCV should always be leaking through a little during engine operation. Yes it is 100% possible to have oil on the intake valves and have NO leaking valve seals. Oil coming past the oil rings can easily be pumped back into the intake and would soak the valves. In fact - for a car to consume a quart of oil in 1000 miles - all the valve seals would need to be completely removed and even then - it may not use that much oil just leaking past the seals.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You're welcome. My pleasure. However - you still might catch something in the catch can. Because the catch can is installed - it will catch something. Don't expect it to be dry. It will have oil vapor going through it. The question is - will it be enough to condense back into a liquid in the can like it's condensing in the intake ? No - it won't. If you change your pcv and your catch can is relatively dry - then my explanation is the remaining answer because there's no other place for the oil to be coming from. Re: oil on your intake valves - These multi port injection cars are spraying fuel directly on the intake valves during operation. Notice how clean the valves are except for the oil ? Carburetors and TBI engines get dirty carbonized intake valves because the fuel is vaporized before it reaches the valves. Oil vapor sticks to the valve and cooks ( cokes ) on the valve stem / head. Multi port injection cars are spraying atomized liquid on the valve that vaporizes as it passes the valve because of the heat and pressure drop.
2010 Camry 2.5L 4cyl 0w-20 synthetic started using oil more frequently after 210k mi currently at 250k mi….I never follow/subscribe to videos but I made an exception here. I’m really impressed with your approach and I’m anxiously waiting for the next episode to drop. I’m bout to try atleast three Berryman’s soaks and see what I get… I may also have Interesting tidbit in relation to Berrymans main component Xylene… I used to work in an oil refinery that had both light end Hydrocarbons (like Xylene/naphtha) and heavy hydrocarbons (like asphalt/burnt crude)…. Even though it wasn’t “safe” the most effective “cleaner” we had for cleaning heavy hydrocarbons like super sticky sludge, asphalt, Or cooked carbon was the product from our gasoline unit which contained a lot of xylene… As is turns out this “cleaned” so well due the solubility of the “cleaner” and the “mess” since both were a hydrocarbon base both we’re quite soluble with each other which allows the clean light end product to grab the heavier dirty stuff….I found this out while studying Chemical engineering thermodynamics for a ChemE degree I’m trying to complete. I feel like if my engine and its parts (rubber seals and such) can tolerate running a higher concentration of Berrymans through the oil system I might make some progress assuming its just my rings being seized and not worn
I used dura lube or a ceramic engine treatment. It fills the gap between the rings and block. The ladies Scion TC doesn't burn oil anymore. Did a engine flush first.
This is the video I've been waiting for and like a classic Batman show in the 70's it ends with...will our capped crusader stop burning oil...will the Corolla get squashed with a sledgehammer...tune in next week boys and girls.. 😂...
There are 2 vents one is the pcv is on the vacuum side of the tb. The 2nd is just an open tube from the valve cover to the intake hose before the tb. If the tb is clean with no carbon dirt build up it the other hose doing it but this only happens if you have a lot of blow by on the rings. My stance is the valve stem seals.
Great demonstration of the PCV valve. As others have stated, the cheap hoses are prone to kinking and collapse, so just keep an eye on that. Also, you may have figured this out by now, but I'm curious, how are you going to empty it? I would think it would be difficult since it's in a tight spot, and you want to keep it upright when you remove the catch can cylinder. You might have to remove the hoses when you do so, and just lift the whole thing out would be my thinking, but that's getting ahead of myself. Looking forward to the results. Thanks
I learned something today! I didn’t realize PCV valves were check valves that operated in two directions. I thought they only operated in one direction. Thanks for providing clear concise information on how everything plumbs together. It took me years to get to the point where I really understood the crank case plumbing and vacuum dynamics of a car. Anyone who watches your videos and pays close attention will get it all in one place the first time! Doing great! All this information and experimentation will really hope a lot of people!
Your PCV system is sucking oil through it. In the old days we just put a crank case breather filter on the valve cover for the blow by and put a bolt in the pcv line to stop the vacuum loss. Most drag cars and high performance cars dont have PCV at all. That kept most motors from sucking oil through the PCV and vented the little bit of blow by from the highest point on the motor. Since it happened at idle mostly, it was never an issue. Not saying you should do this, but you are definately getting oil and vapor sucked throught the PCV and even with a catch can it will still deplete your crank case oil. If catch can gets lots of oil, maybe try plugging off PCV and put a filtered vent up hign from the crank case. Might be easier than dumping oil out the catch can all the time. Not sure if it would go through California emmisions, but since its older car in most states it would be fine.
I am sure there is already 50 comments saying this. But there is no real chance of pressure building up because of the breather. Typically higher RPM and heavy throttle load will produce some crankcase pressure (also a lifted ring land and other such piston damage) but thats the job of the breather and why is connected to the air intake pre-throttle. The idea is the higher air speed in the intake during heavy load (but low intake vacuum) will draw out the gases and pressure. Alot of people will just "vent" the crankcase and the problem is you do not get the scavenging effects of having it connected. In modified engines making more power they need more breather area.
The warnings in the previous comments are legitimate and informed, quality hose is a must for the catch can to function as intended, given the opportunity this add on should help
just found your channel through researching BG engine oil cleaner and the video you made on the subject really sparked my interest. I've got some questions, how old were you when you first started working on cars? where did you learn all this kind of knowledge about cars? I want to learn more about cars and hopefully someday be able to know so much about them to the point where I don't have to take my car to the shop every single time even for something like an oil change! my parents won't let me work on our car for some reason, they think I'm going to break or ruin the car, so even for an oil change I have to take it somewhere!! it's a little frustrating but I can't do anytime about it til I can afford my first car. and another problem I have is I drive a 2015 ford focus se, yet I don't know anything about the car, I wish i understood troubling sounds from a car so that I can teach my future kids these things! this is the second video I've watched of yours but I'm going to stay here for a while !😄 very informative and easy to understand!!
I've had friends in the past who knew a lot about cars but they grew up around them and working on them, I feel like I'm a lost cause when it comes to cars and understanding them due to me being 19
did you ever go to school for car work? or did you ever work a job where they taught you? or was it just taught to you like how you teach your daughter (as in you were taught through your younger years through a family member)
I'm still learning. My dad tried to involve me in a few repairs growing up, but I would get bored and beg to be able to go and play. When I got my first car he taught me to change the oil, and that was good enough for me until I was about 22 or so. I was working for a living as a pizza delivery driver, driving a '91 Ford Festiva, and couldn't afford to have anyone else work on my car, so I bought a manual. That's really how it started. Hayne's/Chilton's manuals and necessity. When something broke, I'd go through the troubleshooting process in the book until I figured it out. You're not behind the curve, you have plenty of time. All it takes is the interest, which it appears you have, and research. You're already on the right track. All the best. Just keep learning!!
That thin wall hose is likely to get sucked flat by the vacuum, this was a common issue with the old Ford CVH engine and it used to ruin the hydraulic tappets. Get some thick wall reinforced hose (or go to a junkyard and get a PCV hose from a wrecked Corolla). Also you may want to consider a catch can with a drain-back to the crankcase, but I guess in the short term it would be good to see how much you catch! Really enjoying this series, keep fighting the good fight
I do believe you will catch oil. Just pour it back in the engine. But I recommend that you get a molded hose for that 90 degree bend. If the flimsy hose collapses, then flow will be restricted. I really am enjoying this series.
The oil the catch can catches is condensed oil vapor. In my opinion it is cleaner than the oil in the pan because it doesn't have heavier particles in it. Now, if it were to have condensed water vapor in it, that would be a different issue. I have two factory Mercedes, a 83 240D and a 81 300TD, both of them have factory catch cans that return the condensed oil back to the crankcase. However, I do not own a GDI engine and I would be interested to know how it's vapors would be less desirable for being re-introduced back into the crankcase.@@cumshot247
Get some fuel line at NAPA or somewhere to replace that flimsy drinking straw they put in the kit. You may want to get it long enough to coil around without a sharp bend. That will give you some peace of mind to know it won't suck shut at some point and mess up your experiment.
I got some expanded braided PET (I think) hose cover sleeve material to go over the hoses to boost my confidence there wouldn't be any premature hose wear. I'd do that at the least or maybe like you noted insulation, if you don't make a bracket to hold the catch can. I've also seen for the prius and have planned, to re route the PCV Valve into a vertical position up beside the head due to the prius having installed down by the oil pan. I almost installed back when I got in 2020, though wanted to reroute up to the PCV Valve in the vertical up higher position using a matching material like aluminum or steel instead of the rubber gas oil line hose. I guess I'm paranoid the hose material potentially getting back into the oil in the engine.
Engines with orifice don't have a valve like the equinox vvt engines and almost every Gm vvt engine. A catch can can reduce carbon buildup on intake valves on a vvt engine. But if you have any section of the hose that has a upward curve water from the blowby will freeze in the winter and now you have zero flow through the orifice from the rocker cover. Most engines today don't even have a PVC valve that was to restrict flow and prevent a backfire condition from igniting the gasses in the crankcase. PVC valves work during deacceleration and some idling. But most of blowby occurs at high rpms and under acceleration! Not during idle and not during deacceleration! It's a emissions device! It also prevents blowing the rear main seal and other seals.
If an engine is at decel for a long time, with new rings, valve guides and seals and still blowing smoke after decel, could it just be a faulty pcv valve?
Hi Dave. You didn't show the blow-by coming out of the engine top cover when you had the pcv hose disconnected and engine running.That would have been nice to see, especially at road speed, under a load of say 70mph. You could then narrow the oil passing down to the piston rings or not. If there's no blow-by you know it's the oil rings passing it, provided the valve stem seals are workiNG. The oil inside the intake manifold is definitely coming thru the PCV. ben/ michigan
Hello. Your 1zzfe is flipped compared to mine so i dont see if you got hoses correctly. On my celica there is 2 hoses from valve cover. Pvc valve hose goes after throtle body and another before it. Make sure u got them right cause if they wrong 1zz eats oil
Hi Dave, The effect of the positive blow-by on PCV caliberation can be ignored if you realized that value of blow-by pressure at max speed shall not be more than 1 psi and the in-take vaccum at idle , on the other hand, is about 10 psi or 20 in-Hg. In the worst case, which is at max speed and max throttle, the ratio of vaccum and blow-by may drop to say 5, however, the caliberation is still doesn't matter because the pcv is fully open.
just a quick note,i have a 1999 corolla (built in 1998 on driver door sticker)346,000 miles same engine only not coil on plugs like yours...i hope you find the cure soon..i change the oil on my sons 11 impala 3.5 (also a great engine)every 6 months,spring and fall,with filter in the fall.5w30 dextos synthatic.and yep it goes in the toyota when i have to top it off.kill to birds with one oil change.find the answer ....please lol
Use a ceramic engine treatment. It permanently binds to the metal. It fills the gap between the rings and block. Do a motor flush for 6 mins first, change oil, and add it.
At this point, Dave could have literally changed the engine to a repurposed helicopter turbine engine and been winning drag races nationwide. He does this for science. We appreciate your dedication, Dave!
After learning the hard way with my Scion tc I don't know if I'll ever buy an old Toyota ever again. How did they have so many badly burning oil engines and people still praise them??
Here is the pcv hose I used with my catch can Mishimoto MMHOSE-CC38-4 Universal Catch Can Hose 3/8" x 4', Black Check the id of your hose. Not sure if yours is 3/8
It was split down the middle, and I was tired of nearly ripping it off everytime I bumped something. The JB Weld has worked great. I highly recommend. But you have to use the "Kwik Weld." :-)
Regarding the HIGH pressure upstream the pcv: The pcv does not close because the pressure acts on the entire plunger from all sides cancelling any "thrusting" effect, therefore the spring is still capable of keeping the downstream port open.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Well, if you blow in from the upstream port against the spring, the valve will close if the FLOW overcomes the spring. The pcv is designed to allow flow as long as the flow is "moderate", i.e. within designed range. Any flow exceeding the design parameters (cross sectional area of plunger, plunger mass i.e. material, fluid passage dimensions, and spring stiffness) the pcv will close. At idle, vacuum is maximum BUT flow is minimum, allowing the upstream positive pressure to "surround" the plunger and the spring keeps it open. At higher speeds, the throttle is open, vacuum is less, vapours flow is high. Again, the small positive pressure of upstream vapours with the aid of the spring keep the pcv open. Any abrupt change in vacuum "hurls" the plunger to close (momentarily). Then the plunger keeps "dancing" until equilibrium is re-established. This is only a transient state whenever downstream vacuum abruptly changes (regardless increase or decrease).
Sometimes using zipties, or hose clamps, to squeeze the kink back to being round, will work in a pinch (or if just trialing a catchcan). Not sure how well it works with vacuum though.
So if it’s operated by vacuum, I.e. negative pressure, why is it called the positive crankcase ventilation valve? 😉😂 Actually your explanation made sense. PS pressure doesn’t care whether it’s negative on one side or positive on the other side: it’s only the delta that matters. Now I got to the part of the video that you figured that out by logic.
That's a very kinky hose ... the kind you don't take home to mother. That's what Rick James would say about your hose between the catch can and the valve cover.
Just like vacuum windshield wipers let off the gas and they go fast..... is there people out there that doesn't know this ? Maybe some kid that doesn't know anything about cars😮
This is how pcv valve works it's all in the name PCV valve means positive crankcase ventilation valve. During combustion a certain amount of compression is lost past the piston rings this is normal the pcv valve releases that pressure so it doesn't blow your gaskets out and leak oil everywhere. compression gas loss aka "blow by is why your engine oil gets dirty because there is soot from combustion that enters the crankcase when there is blow by. Here's an animated video explains how a PCV valve works. ua-cam.com/video/sXDG42386uw/v-deo.htmlsi=b-eva3QqGjxhCIIF
Entire oil burning playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
By using this kind of oil catch can you raising pressure inside crank. Need to use something like Provent by Mann. There's a channel where guys places a pressure sensor inside crankcase and he measures pressure in stock, with this kind of catch can and woth Mann/hummel provent. Stock and provent were nearly identical, with the catch can like in video the pressure is higher than normal.
So the catch can has to be adequate to engine blowby...
There are two sides to the Crankcase vent system. The PCV side that operates during idle and cruise conditions, connected to the intake manifold and the overflow side, the larger hose on the rocker cover that pushes combustion gases into the throttle body inlet at WOT. you can put catch cans on both sides. Don't change/disconnect how it operates otherwise you will be breathing blowby at the traffic lights. I use to have a 4cyl engine that use to fowel up number 4 sparkplug with crusty carbon. The vacuum take off was where number 4 runner was. I built and installed a self draining catchcan and never had to clean up that plug again.
How to make self draining catch can ?
I was wondering about the other side. I have a 4th generation 4runner V8 and was wondering if I should put in two catch cans. I don't have an oil issue, yet but I would like to keep it burning as clean as possible. I haven't seen anyone add a second one. Do you have any links I could check out? BTW what is WOT? TIA
Dave, Your calm and kind demeener along with you Bible references are most appreciated. You are a very blessed and appreciated soul. Please keep up the great work in helping your fellow man and being a steadfast and dillegent parent. Peace Be Unto You and all of your wonderful family, My Friend.
Much appreciated :-)
I put the same design catch can on my 2011 Sorento GDI 4 cylinder in WNY & get a fair amount of oil in it.
I am really looking forward to the result, having followed your oil burning journey for some time now, this is a greatly informative series 👍
Thank you!
Dave. Watch your oil experiment and love it. I installed the same catch can on my 1990 22 RE Toyota P/U. A hint because instructions ae nill for function.
1. Unscrew and remove dip stick.
2. Unscrew the reservoir and remove the filter media brillow stuff.
3. On the top of the in, and outlet unit there is a round piece with holes in it that unscrews.
Unscrew it and take some or the steel media and stuff it in the inside of that some what tight and screw it back in finger tight. As the blow by comes threw that media it collects and drips down into the reservoir allowing you to monitor the amount of oil that is captured in the miles between when have to add oil. Otherwise your going to have a huge wad of steel media and a mess to replace and no way to monitor your results. The sell that media material at Home Depot pretty cheep. I've seen so many You Tube installations of these catch cans done wrong. You Tuber Ray Nada had the same issue as you, and after many months and many You Tube episodes he found out he had broken rings. Check him out. Very helpful and he is a very good guy. He responds to all messages. Keep em coming. Love the saga of the little Toyo.
Mike Regan
Modesto Ca
PS Dump that crappie hose in the kit and go to the auto parts store and get a new piece as it will crimp and restrict flow.
Indeed. The lower part must be just a reservoir to hold oil. Don't try to put all the steel wool above the baffle. Just as much as you can cram in there.
Isn't coming ready to use?
Very good analysis on the PCV valve bro. Let me just point out that not only oil mist (small oil particles in liquid form) goes through the PCV valve. There is also oil vapor (evaporated oil due to high internal temp of the engine - gaseous form)
I conducted study on this too. I installed an aluminum catch can on my 2NZ-FE engine. The catch can can only catch the liquid oil mist, but it can not catch the oil vapor in gaseous form. That is why even tho I have a catch can Installed, my sparkplugs still got coated with a thin layer of carbon. The oil vapor tends to condense back to liquid form upon entering the intake manifold (cooled by ambient air) and I have observed that there is still oil inside my intake manifold after installing the catch can.
So here's what I did to further improve the efficiency of the catch can. from the PCV valve I installed an in-line oil condenser (like a small intercooler / a Gaming PC Radiator will do) This will cool down the hot air coming out of the PCV valve. And Oil will condense inside this small radiator. once in liquid form. It will be easier for the catch can to catch the oil and prevent it from entering the intake manifold.
Sequence: PCV Valve --> Oil Condenser / Radiator --> Catch Can --> Intake manifold.
Still conducting further study on this setup on how efficient it is in preventing oil from passing through.
currently comparing the amount of oil in the catch can vs the amount of oil I need to top up. It only takes a bit of time since my engine only burns like 1qt. of oil every 3000 miles and my daily travel from home to work is only 23 miles (1 way)
You should make a video on that. I'm not sure I have the space for that kind of setup ... but it's good info.
This is a great series DIY dave...
Even in reversion.. burning or vaporized oil is happening in the combustion chamber first.... presumably caused by stuck rings... has anyone tried to add small amounts of brake parts cleaner AKA dry cleaning fluid as a solvent..... Or any of the off-the-shelf solvents... In combination with using two rods driven by opposed eccentrics like bicycle cranks turned by a drill causing piston to rock back and forth to help solvent free the rings.... I tried the above on cyl. #4 only which had a fouled plug skipping for 30 secs. From cold.. MPG went from 33.6 first tank to 32 2nd tank then 30 last wkk... Most recently it was getting between 26-28.…. And 2k Corolla 183k never achieved better than 29 over 15 years as long as I've had it... This was such a huge improvement I've since just repeated across all four cylinders ...filled tank and waiting for next MPG average... BTW performance improved likewise alongside the 12 to 15% MPG improvement... When it was doing that.. and gradually decreased with the mpg decreases.. also just started taking compression cranking with throttle open 180 200 210 200. I didn't take them with the throttle open the first time so the before baseline numbers not relevant. It was a last-minute after thought taking the compression but MPGs are being kept track and also oil consumption never was too bad about 3k / qt. Hopefully with these tips I can get where it can stretch 5K and never have to add oil . Haha... 😊
Want to thank you for this series I just watched all your videos. Did the Barryman pistons soak for 36 hours on a Chevy Aveo with 260000. Was smoking quite consistently but after the procedure and new oil, the smoke pretty much disappeared.
I want to thank you for commenting... I've been having severe constipation for a week and when I read you have a Chevy Aveo with almost 300k I swiftly pooped my pants...
@@Mikegastaldo actually 260298 to be exact. Is an old lady car probably is the only reason it has make it so far. Glad to help you with your intestinal problems.
@@luisgonzalez3057 😂
Glad to hear it!
Lol!
One thing about the hoses that come with the catch can, they're flimsy and sometimes collapse on themselves. Check periodically. Waiting on part 2. Good stuff.
Hi Dave, I love your videos and have redirected lots of 1ZZ engine owners to them, mostly Celica 1ZZ but it is still good info. I think from watching the operation of your PCV valve it might be gummed up inside. They are usually really loose, you should be able to hear it rattle back and forward if you shake it. When I remove the one from my 2ZZ to check it, it rattled but was not a clear metallic sound like a new one. Cleaning it our with carb cleaner removed a lot of burnt / solidified oil. It might be worth rechecking you, unless you already did this off camera. There are a few examples on UA-cam if you want to see what it should sound like. This might even be why so much oil is getting past it as it should prevent liquid oil getting sucked into the inlet. Cheers Andrew
Thanks for the tip!
Your description and understand are relatively accurate.
The PCV works off combined differential pressure. A combination of engine case pressure and vacuum working together against the spring. When the engine is running the PCV never actually closes. It is a metered / controlled volume leak.
The PCV valve has 2 seats - a plunger and a spring. A tapered shaft protrudes through a hole on the vac side acting as a metering pin and a flat seat on the crankcase side. The spring holds the valve down against the crankcase / pressure side. Vacuum is the more overwhelming force in play. When the engine idles, vac is high but case pressure is low. The valve is drawn by vac into the limiting mode with the taper in the hole. At cruise speeds the vac is low but the case pressure is higher, pushing the plunger off it's case pressure seat balanced by spring pressure. PCV valve.
Your oil rings are done.
The oil in your intake is from a condition called " reversion "
During the valve overlap cycle between the exhaust and intake the air reverses direction in microseconds. During cruise operation - the air does not have time or energy to change directions, and the oil is burned and exhausted through the pipes, but when the engine is idling or being operated at very low rpm's - exhaust pressure in the manifold / pipe is forcing air to change directions creating a backwards pulse during the cam exhaust / intake overlap cycle. This pulse carries oil vapor into the the intake where the air is cooler and the vapor oil now condenses into liquid oil deposits inside the lowest points of the intake.
Please look up " reversion " as it applies to piston engines.
www.lightningheaders.com/tech-info(2).htm
I think I have this problem on my 2010 Toyota Prius but I think I also have a problem with my EGR
This is a great comment. Lots of good info here. I didn't know that about the backwards pulse ... So it's totally possible to have oil around the valves and in the intake with the valve seals working as they should and little PCV blowby?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY PCV blow by ? The PCV should always be leaking through a little during engine operation.
Yes it is 100% possible to have oil on the intake valves and have NO leaking valve seals. Oil coming past the oil rings can easily be pumped back into the intake and would soak the valves.
In fact - for a car to consume a quart of oil in 1000 miles - all the valve seals would need to be completely removed and even then - it may not use that much oil just leaking past the seals.
Very encouraging! Thanks for that@@mixter7x7
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You're welcome. My pleasure.
However - you still might catch something in the catch can.
Because the catch can is installed - it will catch something. Don't expect it to be dry. It will have oil vapor going through it. The question is - will it be enough to condense back into a liquid in the can like it's condensing in the intake ?
No - it won't.
If you change your pcv and your catch can is relatively dry - then my explanation is the remaining answer because there's no other place for the oil to be coming from.
Re: oil on your intake valves - These multi port injection cars are spraying fuel directly on the intake valves during operation. Notice how clean the valves are except for the oil ? Carburetors and TBI engines get dirty carbonized intake valves because the fuel is vaporized before it reaches the valves. Oil vapor sticks to the valve and cooks ( cokes ) on the valve stem / head. Multi port injection cars are spraying atomized liquid on the valve that vaporizes as it passes the valve because of the heat and pressure drop.
2010 Camry 2.5L 4cyl 0w-20 synthetic started using oil more frequently after 210k mi currently at 250k mi….I never follow/subscribe to videos but I made an exception here. I’m really impressed with your approach and I’m anxiously waiting for the next episode to drop.
I’m bout to try atleast three Berryman’s soaks and see what I get…
I may also have Interesting tidbit in relation to Berrymans main component Xylene…
I used to work in an oil refinery that had both light end Hydrocarbons (like Xylene/naphtha) and heavy hydrocarbons (like asphalt/burnt crude)….
Even though it wasn’t “safe” the most effective “cleaner” we had for cleaning heavy hydrocarbons like super sticky sludge, asphalt, Or cooked carbon was the product from our gasoline unit which contained a lot of xylene…
As is turns out this “cleaned” so well due the solubility of the “cleaner” and the “mess” since both were a hydrocarbon base both we’re quite soluble with each other which allows the clean light end product to grab the heavier dirty stuff….I found this out while studying Chemical engineering thermodynamics for a ChemE degree I’m trying to complete.
I feel like if my engine and its parts (rubber seals and such) can tolerate running a higher concentration of Berrymans through the oil system I might make some progress assuming its just my rings being seized and not worn
I used dura lube or a ceramic engine treatment. It fills the gap between the rings and block. The ladies Scion TC doesn't burn oil anymore. Did a engine flush first.
This is the video I've been waiting for and like a classic Batman show in the 70's it ends with...will our capped crusader stop burning oil...will the Corolla get squashed with a sledgehammer...tune in next week boys and girls.. 😂...
I loved that show ... POW! BOOM! WHACK! ... or something like that :-)
There are 2 vents one is the pcv is on the vacuum side of the tb. The 2nd is just an open tube from the valve cover to the intake hose before the tb.
If the tb is clean with no carbon dirt build up it the other hose doing it but this only happens if you have a lot of blow by on the rings.
My stance is the valve stem seals.
Great demonstration of the PCV valve. As others have stated, the cheap hoses are prone to kinking and collapse, so just keep an eye on that. Also, you may have figured this out by now, but I'm curious, how are you going to empty it? I would think it would be difficult since it's in a tight spot, and you want to keep it upright when you remove the catch can cylinder. You might have to remove the hoses when you do so, and just lift the whole thing out would be my thinking, but that's getting ahead of myself. Looking forward to the results. Thanks
Patiently waiting for the results. 2002 honda accord se with high oil consumption. 1 quart or more a week
I learned something today! I didn’t realize PCV valves were check valves that operated in two directions. I thought they only operated in one direction. Thanks for providing clear concise information on how everything plumbs together. It took me years to get to the point where I really understood the crank case plumbing and vacuum dynamics of a car. Anyone who watches your videos and pays close attention will get it all in one place the first time! Doing great! All this information and experimentation will really hope a lot of people!
Thanks Philip ... but there always seem to be a few flaws in my theories ... so keep an eye on the other comments for corrections :-)
Thank you Dave for your humble answer while you searching for truth.
God bless and keep good work.
Your PCV system is sucking oil through it. In the old days we just put a crank case breather filter on the valve cover for the blow by and put a bolt in the pcv line to stop the vacuum loss. Most drag cars and high performance cars dont have PCV at all. That kept most motors from sucking oil through the PCV and vented the little bit of blow by from the highest point on the motor. Since it happened at idle mostly, it was never an issue. Not saying you should do this, but you are definately getting oil and vapor sucked throught the PCV and even with a catch can it will still deplete your crank case oil. If catch can gets lots of oil, maybe try plugging off PCV and put a filtered vent up hign from the crank case. Might be easier than dumping oil out the catch can all the time. Not sure if it would go through California emmisions, but since its older car in most states it would be fine.
I am sure there is already 50 comments saying this. But there is no real chance of pressure building up because of the breather. Typically higher RPM and heavy throttle load will produce some crankcase pressure (also a lifted ring land and other such piston damage) but thats the job of the breather and why is connected to the air intake pre-throttle. The idea is the higher air speed in the intake during heavy load (but low intake vacuum) will draw out the gases and pressure. Alot of people will just "vent" the crankcase and the problem is you do not get the scavenging effects of having it connected. In modified engines making more power they need more breather area.
😂 i Commented earlier today on an older video about saying you should try putting a catch Can. I should have just looked at your new videos.
The warnings in the previous comments are legitimate and informed, quality hose is a must for the catch can to function as intended, given the opportunity this add on should help
just found your channel through researching BG engine oil cleaner and the video you made on the subject really sparked my interest.
I've got some questions, how old were you when you first started working on cars? where did you learn all this kind of knowledge about cars? I want to learn more about cars and hopefully someday be able to know so much about them to the point where I don't have to take my car to the shop every single time even for something like an oil change! my parents won't let me work on our car for some reason, they think I'm going to break or ruin the car, so even for an oil change I have to take it somewhere!! it's a little frustrating but I can't do anytime about it til I can afford my first car. and another problem I have is I drive a 2015 ford focus se, yet I don't know anything about the car, I wish i understood troubling sounds from a car so that I can teach my future kids these things!
this is the second video I've watched of yours but I'm going to stay here for a while !😄 very informative and easy to understand!!
I've had friends in the past who knew a lot about cars but they grew up around them and working on them, I feel like I'm a lost cause when it comes to cars and understanding them due to me being 19
did you ever go to school for car work? or did you ever work a job where they taught you? or was it just taught to you like how you teach your daughter (as in you were taught through your younger years through a family member)
I'm still learning. My dad tried to involve me in a few repairs growing up, but I would get bored and beg to be able to go and play. When I got my first car he taught me to change the oil, and that was good enough for me until I was about 22 or so. I was working for a living as a pizza delivery driver, driving a '91 Ford Festiva, and couldn't afford to have anyone else work on my car, so I bought a manual. That's really how it started. Hayne's/Chilton's manuals and necessity. When something broke, I'd go through the troubleshooting process in the book until I figured it out. You're not behind the curve, you have plenty of time. All it takes is the interest, which it appears you have, and research. You're already on the right track. All the best. Just keep learning!!
That thin wall hose is likely to get sucked flat by the vacuum, this was a common issue with the old Ford CVH engine and it used to ruin the hydraulic tappets. Get some thick wall reinforced hose (or go to a junkyard and get a PCV hose from a wrecked Corolla). Also you may want to consider a catch can with a drain-back to the crankcase, but I guess in the short term it would be good to see how much you catch! Really enjoying this series, keep fighting the good fight
I do believe you will catch oil. Just pour it back in the engine. But I recommend that you get a molded hose for that 90 degree bend. If the flimsy hose collapses, then flow will be restricted. I really am enjoying this series.
If you have a catch can on a GDI engine, do not pour it back in.💀💀
The oil the catch can catches is condensed oil vapor. In my opinion it is cleaner than the oil in the pan because it doesn't have heavier particles in it. Now, if it were to have condensed water vapor in it, that would be a different issue. I have two factory Mercedes, a 83 240D and a 81 300TD, both of them have factory catch cans that return the condensed oil back to the crankcase. However, I do not own a GDI engine and I would be interested to know how it's vapors would be less desirable for being re-introduced back into the crankcase.@@cumshot247
Becareful Dave if you live in a cold area of the country. Condensate will fill up quick in that can. Fyi
Get some fuel line at NAPA or somewhere to replace that flimsy drinking straw they put in the kit. You may want to get it long enough to coil around without a sharp bend. That will give you some peace of mind to know it won't suck shut at some point and mess up your experiment.
I like to plumb my catch cans up front where cooler outside air can flow buy it to help with condensation of the blow by oil and water .
Good idea.
I got some expanded braided PET (I think) hose cover sleeve material to go over the hoses to boost my confidence there wouldn't be any premature hose wear. I'd do that at the least or maybe like you noted insulation, if you don't make a bracket to hold the catch can. I've also seen for the prius and have planned, to re route the PCV Valve into a vertical position up beside the head due to the prius having installed down by the oil pan. I almost installed back when I got in 2020, though wanted to reroute up to the PCV Valve in the vertical up higher position using a matching material like aluminum or steel instead of the rubber gas oil line hose. I guess I'm paranoid the hose material potentially getting back into the oil in the engine.
Engines with orifice don't have a valve like the equinox vvt engines and almost every Gm vvt engine. A catch can can reduce carbon buildup on intake valves on a vvt engine. But if you have any section of the hose that has a upward curve water from the blowby will freeze in the winter and now you have zero flow through the orifice from the rocker cover. Most engines today don't even have a PVC valve that was to restrict flow and prevent a backfire condition from igniting the gasses in the crankcase. PVC valves work during deacceleration and some idling. But most of blowby occurs at high rpms and under acceleration! Not during idle and not during deacceleration! It's a emissions device! It also prevents blowing the rear main seal and other seals.
If an engine is at decel for a long time, with new rings, valve guides and seals and still blowing smoke after decel, could it just be a faulty pcv valve?
Weird thing is, that if I'm decelerating with the AC on, it doesn't smoke at all. I'm just really confused at this point
Ehen you finally get around to fix it you should just replacr the rings and see what happens dont get it resleaved or honed
This Toyota burner is a 📺 money maker 😅 ✌🏼
watched previous and commented...nice work!
Hi Dave. You didn't show the blow-by coming out of the engine top cover when you had the pcv hose disconnected and engine running.That would have been nice to see, especially at road speed, under a load of say 70mph. You could then narrow the oil passing down to the piston rings or not. If there's no blow-by you know it's the oil rings passing it, provided the valve stem seals are workiNG. The oil inside the intake manifold is definitely coming thru the PCV. ben/ michigan
You're right ... I should have showed that too.
Hello. Your 1zzfe is flipped compared to mine so i dont see if you got hoses correctly. On my celica there is 2 hoses from valve cover. Pvc valve hose goes after throtle body and another before it. Make sure u got them right cause if they wrong 1zz eats oil
Hi Dave, The effect of the positive blow-by on PCV caliberation can be ignored if you realized that value of blow-by pressure at max speed shall not be more than 1 psi and the in-take vaccum at idle , on the other hand, is about 10 psi or 20 in-Hg. In the worst case, which is at max speed and max throttle, the ratio of vaccum and blow-by may drop to say 5, however, the caliberation is still doesn't matter because the pcv is fully open.
Exactly.
Awesome. Thank you for adding this.
Great video .Can't wait for some results.. Cheers..
Thanks 👍
just a quick note,i have a 1999 corolla (built in 1998 on driver door sticker)346,000 miles same engine only not coil on plugs like yours...i hope you find the cure soon..i change the oil on my sons 11 impala 3.5 (also a great engine)every 6 months,spring and fall,with filter in the fall.5w30 dextos synthatic.and yep it goes in the toyota when i have to top it off.kill to birds with one oil change.find the answer ....please lol
Use a ceramic engine treatment. It permanently binds to the metal. It fills the gap between the rings and block. Do a motor flush for 6 mins first, change oil, and add it.
Cant wait to see the result.
Got same Blow By Prob.
Our pcv valves in our 1zz-fe engines sound like a tiny ball rattling around lol
have you tried to switch over to Valvoline Restore and Protect motor oil?
Love your insulation solution! Ha ha
At this point, Dave could have literally changed the engine to a repurposed helicopter turbine engine and been winning drag races nationwide. He does this for science. We appreciate your dedication, Dave!
Thanks 😄
Dave
Have you checked valve guide seals ?
After learning the hard way with my Scion tc I don't know if I'll ever buy an old Toyota ever again. How did they have so many badly burning oil engines and people still praise them??
It must be because the previously had a stellar track record ... hopefully they'll get back on track.
You need a reeinforced piece of hose. That wet noodle of a hose is not going to get the job done well I do not think!
FYI, not all catch cans are created equally.
Hi Dave. Have replace the PVC valve with OEM part?
Yes. That's a new Toyota part.
The brillo pad in my catch can deteriorating after a few weeks into little pieces clogging the system. It catches oil just fine without it.
good to know
Been waiting for this
Curious to see how long it takes to fill up…
I think it will be surprising ;-)
Here is the pcv hose I used with my catch can
Mishimoto MMHOSE-CC38-4 Universal Catch Can Hose 3/8" x 4', Black
Check the id of your hose. Not sure if yours is 3/8
Remember the vent tube to air filter box will back flow
The science and magic wore off after he said he put jbweld on his fingernail lol
It was split down the middle, and I was tired of nearly ripping it off everytime I bumped something. The JB Weld has worked great. I highly recommend. But you have to use the "Kwik Weld." :-)
Hi Dave, just watching the video but I will say you have the patience of a Saint and persistence of a teenager in lust😅😅
Thanks :-) ... I feel like I'm stringing people along, but I just keep thinking "Oh wait, I really need to try this first or we'll never know..."
You are not stringing us along! We all want to see you succeed.
@FamilyFriendlyDIY it's good content and you're right if you don't try than we won't know
much appreciated :-) @@jpop2499
try 0w30 or ow20 work for my chevy Cavalier
I may have missed it but what helped reduce the oil that was sitting on your pistons?
I think it's been reduced since the Berryman's treatment ... but now you've got me wondering -- I should have taken better note of that.
11:21 bolt was moving with the revs
So are you saying the pcv valve works in both directions?
Looks like the catch can could use a respirator 😄
yeah! pcv valve action!
i thought u explained quite well.
Much appreciated :-) ... hopefully it was a correct explanation.
Regarding the HIGH pressure upstream the pcv:
The pcv does not close because the pressure acts on the entire plunger from all sides cancelling any "thrusting" effect, therefore the spring is still capable of keeping the downstream port open.
Thank you!!! So it's sort of "neutral" if you blow in one end?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Well, if you blow in from the upstream port against the spring, the valve will close if the FLOW overcomes the spring.
The pcv is designed to allow flow as long as the flow is "moderate", i.e. within designed range. Any flow exceeding the design parameters (cross sectional area of plunger, plunger mass i.e. material, fluid passage dimensions, and spring stiffness) the pcv will close.
At idle, vacuum is maximum BUT flow is minimum, allowing the upstream positive pressure to "surround" the plunger and the spring keeps it open.
At higher speeds, the throttle is open, vacuum is less, vapours flow is high. Again, the small positive pressure of upstream vapours with the aid of the spring keep the pcv open.
Any abrupt change in vacuum "hurls" the plunger to close (momentarily). Then the plunger keeps "dancing" until equilibrium is re-established. This is only a transient state whenever downstream vacuum abruptly changes (regardless increase or decrease).
Fascinating. Thank you for that explanation!@@nidaldajani728
That is a slightly janky install. But if the results are positive you can always do a permanent install.
✨
Keep an eye on the bend in the hose, I had issues with lines collapsing for a simular setup.
Sometimes using zipties, or hose clamps, to squeeze the kink back to being round, will work in a pinch (or if just trialing a catchcan). Not sure how well it works with vacuum though.
Funny you mentioned that. Ooops. I dont' want to spoil the next video.
Have a update?
4:00 man, drywall screw through your nail... ouuuch
So if it’s operated by vacuum, I.e. negative pressure, why is it called the positive crankcase ventilation valve? 😉😂
Actually your explanation made sense.
PS pressure doesn’t care whether it’s negative on one side or positive on the other side: it’s only the delta that matters. Now I got to the part of the video that you figured that out by logic.
Good point!
Valve resolve problem of constant positive pressure in crankcase.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
That's a very kinky hose ... the kind you don't take home to mother. That's what Rick James would say about your hose between the catch can and the valve cover.
Need to use a new working.
Nice.
Just like vacuum windshield wipers let off the gas and they go fast..... is there people out there that doesn't know this ? Maybe some kid that doesn't know anything about cars😮
yoyr plunger is backwards.
a woman ghost 4:46 minutes..
Have you done a compression test Sir
This is how pcv valve works it's all in the name PCV valve means positive crankcase ventilation valve. During combustion a certain amount of compression is lost past the piston rings this is normal the pcv valve releases that pressure so it doesn't blow your gaskets out and leak oil everywhere. compression gas loss aka "blow by is why your engine oil gets dirty because there is soot from combustion that enters the crankcase when there is blow by. Here's an animated video explains how a PCV valve works.
ua-cam.com/video/sXDG42386uw/v-deo.htmlsi=b-eva3QqGjxhCIIF