I Have Big Problems With My 6.0L Powerstroke
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
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Today in this Powerstroke Central youtube video we ran into some serious problems with my 6.0L Powerstroke. Luckily we were able to get everything replaced and Asher Automotive got my truck back on the road in less than a day.
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I had thought the head gaskets finally blew because of the thumbnail, glad they didn’t I love this build
It's coming. They are just working on borrowed time because it's just a matter of when something catastrophic is going to happen with all the things that they have done to this engine so far. They should have done some other things previous to this that they haven't done and with their horrible tuning on it as indicated by the black smoke, it's just a matter of time before they have this thing spit its guts out.
Definitely recommend an oil bypass soot filter!
Huge fan would like to meet when I make it there
Yessir when do you think u will be there?
My guy nooooo. Swap that filter and cap back out for a factory one. You’re gonna end up with unfiltered oil.
The passenger that tells you to get on it every 5 seconds is my spirit animal.
I've been having really good luck with ams oil signature series no additive with ams oil filter
Careful what oil filter you run. If you dont use the motocraft ones, Some are shorter and let debris under them.
You’ve got it opposite. If you run the taller cap from aftermarket filters and then run a motorcraft filter that’s true. But factory cap with aftermarket filter it closes the flap at the bottom of the housing. Essentially doing nothing, motocraft filters on top are the best ones for filter alone, but if he wants the best filtration he needs to buy a bypass
@@KDIGGG frig. yeah I couldn't remember how it went. Been years since I've had a 6.0
@@KDIGGG I mentioned something to this effect in another comment but my thoughts are that if they are running this type of filter cap, then it would indicate that they really don't know what they are doing overall. I know people can be haters and say that it really doesn't make any sense to criticize somebody for running an aftermarket oil filter cap but, when it comes to these engines, either you know or you don't know and I suspect that they don't know. As you mentioned, there are things that they need to be aware of and the fact that they aren't would indicate to me that they really don't know what they are doing. I don't care if it's the owner of the truck because they can someone get a pass since they aren't expected to be completely knowledgeable about the situation. But when you're taking it to a shop, the shop should notice that and be forcing you to make the necessary changes regardless especially when you're doing these types of modifications. Again, if the shop is allowing this to happen, then that would tell me that they probably don't know much about these engines either. At this point in time, there really isn't much of an excuse to not know all the things there are to know about these engines with all the information that is out there after two decades of them being in existence.
also when im gettin on it hard for a certain time i have some coolant that comes out over flow replacerd cap they like to stay low in the resevior
make a vid on fixing and diagnosing your speedometer mines does the same
It’s the abs module
i forgot abt that video that’s right
These engines love archoil.
The speedometer not working is a speed sensor , rear axle or transmission or a bus fault most likely
Hey Josh my name is Josh as well I’m going to be taking my truck to Asher automotive in a couple months because of your videos your inspiring my build.
amazing bro lmk when you are and ill meet you there! I'm in there 2 to 3 times a week filming my own content.
When installing these injectors you need to make sure the thread bore for the injector hold down is clean. If there's oil in there, you will reach the torque value on your wrench but in reality the injector is not seated. Also a good idea to prime the HPO system with the ficm relay pulled and the GPM relay pulled. Watch your HPO with a scan tool. The truck wont even attempt to start until you reach around 500 PSI. Then plug everything back together and she'll start right up. cool beans
That truck better Have a whole lot of stop.😂
Build a 7.3 next
its next on the list
Can’t wait bud! Big fan!
future reference, theres a small plug you can remove on the oil rails and fill it back up before you put the valve cover on and you wont have extended crank waiting for the hpop to fill the rails again.
I don't think the place that they're having this work done at knows as much as they need to based on some of the things in the videos that I've watched and I haven't watched all of them. There's a lot that goes into understanding these engines and a lot of people just throw Parts at them because they have washed other people's videos and they think that it's okay to do certain things when they really shouldn't be messing around with the engines. As you pointed out, there are certain things that you can do to try to minimize the crank times and people that are going to work on these engines need to know these things. Since they obviously don't know, that would indicate that they really don't know what the heck they're doing overall. I'm not trying to be a hater with the person that owns the truck or the shop that is working on it but there are really a lot of things that indicate that they really don't know what they are doing. At least not as much as they need to know what they're doing when they're trying to get to the horsepower numbers that they are.
@@eldridge201 haha yeah I completely agree, I've noticed some things in a couple of the videos that make me cringe on the inside as well.
Transmission brotha
It has to be next if you follow me on instagram you know what happened
Coming soon?
wednesday everything is on video
Mint 👌
Hot shots secret best oil cleaner for injectors
Maybe fix the speedometer?
Living the dream brother
Bros content is fr top notch
thanks man
Zf6 6 speed manual swap 🙌
That would be stupid. Why the hell would he want to do that if he wants to go fast? Automatics have been used in vehicles to go fast for years. There's just no reason to put a 6-speed manual in this unless he was going to tow trailers with it and he's not doing that.
Why when a built 5r110 can hold a shit load of power.
@@blargblarghonk I agree. According to the research I've done, the torque shift 5-speed that comes in the 6.0 is supposed to be able to handle quite a bit of power. Probably not over 700 horsepower in stock form but let's be honest, if you're trying to get more than 700 horsepower out of your 6.0, you better be prepared to spend some money and build that tranny up at the same time.
Once he’s done with this 6.0, I want to see him built a monster of a 7.3L
First of all, I'm not sure that there's much you can do to make a 7.3 a monster. Not unless you have gobs of money and I doubt they are going to spend that much money on something that is that old that only has limited potential anyway. The 6.0 platform is just a much easier and better platform to make power out of since there are so many more aftermarket options out there. As much as people love the older 7.3, they just simply have their limitations unfortunately. I like the 73 as well but it is limited and that's just a simple fact.
it’s already been done by some of us. we just don’t make youtube videos lol
@@eldridge201the 7.3 is not limited… Lol. i have a 7.3 that destroys l5p’s, and its a pmr engine on borrowed time.
@@brandonruhl4525 dude stop being a brainwashed Ford 7.3 powerstroke fanboy. It's just ridiculous.
It's well-documented the limitations that the 7.3 has and it's why hardly anybody builds them up anymore and didn't way back in the day.
I'm not saying that there aren't a few out there that made some good numbers but by and large, there weren't that many because they just didn't have that much as far as the aftermarket when it came to higher horsepower stuff. This is mainly in regard to comparisons with the 6.0 as well as other engines out there but mainly the power stroke engines.
I don't know why you're sitting here trying to argue when it's obvious some of the limitations that the 7.3 powerstroke has with one of them being a glaring one which is the two valves per cylinder limitation and the heads that don't flow very well in comparison to the 6.0 heads that have four valves per cylinder. That in and of itself right there is one major advantage that the 6.0 has among other things.
I didn't say that the 7.3 can't do some things or can't be built up at all but I did say they were limited because they are for the most part. Again, they don't have a huge aftermarket especially nowadays because there just wasn't a whole lot you could do unless you were going to dump a ton of money into them. And the reality is, hardly anybody was going to do that.
If you want to talk about making 400 horsepower or 500 horsepower or maybe even 600 horsepower with your 7.3, that's fine. But you want to talk about trying to get up to 800 horsepower or 1000 horsepower or more, then you need to start dumping quite a bit of money into that 7.3. Especially if you want it to be reliable. Making good power once or twice doesn't mean Jack squat. And again, this is something that you should know if you have any sort of knowledge or experience with the 7.3 like you claim that you do.
As far as your engine destroying others, I don't really care about that. Obviously you can say whatever you want online and unless you have the proof to back it up it doesn't really mean Jack squat. But, just for the sake of argument, I'll concede that perhaps you do have a 7.3 out there that will destroy some of the other trucks on the road. That's completely fine. But you might be a very rare case of somebody that decided to build your 7.3 up that can actually do that. You're not the typical owner so you can't argue as if you're like most people out there.
It's not the same as spending a few thousand dollars in your 6.0 and getting quite a bit more power out of it. It just isn't. And again, you should know this. So, you sitting here trying to argue about it it's pretty stupid really.
I worked on the 7.3 L engines and I have nothing against them overall for the most part and I actually liked them in spite of my criticism saying that they are limited. Multiple things can be true at the same time. You can happen to have a badass 7.3 L that you spent some money on and that might be true. At the same time, it doesn't mean that my comments aren't true saying that they are limited because they are true. Again, there is plenty of information online to backup my statements. And it's why hardly anybody builds up a 7.3 because there just isn't a lot of availability for aftermarket parts out there to make them powerful unless you're going to start to spend quite a bit of money. Also, they're older now and so a lot of people aren't going to do that.
The majority of people that want the 7.3 are probably looking to have it for reliability and that's mainly it. It doesn't make any sense to come here and argue as if you're like the norm or most people when you're not. Most people aren't going to be spending tens of thousands of dollars to get their 7.3 L to make 800 horsepower or a 1000 horsepower or more. They just aren't. They are going to build them to be reliable or maybe not even have to rebuild them at all and just do a few minor modifications to keep them reliable so they can keep hauling their stuff up and down the road for 300,000 Mi or 500,000 miles or more.
@@eldridge201Wow ! What a Great Comment !
Nice video and very thorough! I unintentionally caused this issue by added an extra 5 quarts of oil during an oil change 🤦♂ I followed a video for my first oli change but the guy used 1 gallon oil jugs and i used motorcraft 1.25 gal jugs of oil. he kept reiterating you want to use almost 4 just of oil 🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂. luckily i know a powerstroke guru in salt lake city that replaced the injector for me. My next powerstroke 60 upgrade will be a oil bypass system.
Egr delete weld both ends @powerstrokehelp made a video on this
_I'm still in disbelief that he passed.._
@@DoctorRickSanchez Yeah really sad to see him go.
I been having good luck with my full force diesel 175cc/30% injectors
Fix your speedo!
Better change those o rings
Nice 6.0
What degas bottle is that?
Mikes4x4garage had same issue with his 6.0 build. Basically didn’t torque the injectors properly and it hydro locked the engine with diesel
Been waiting for a video of a built transmission goin in the truck. Brotha I ain’t as lucky as you, my transmissions are always good until there not😂 ain’t no limping or doggin on my 6.0 trans when they start to go out. They are just done
Coming soon
Remember theres two transmission filters for the 6.0!! One in pan one in line to cooler
This has been fun to watch. I’ve tuned in the last 4-5 videos. Had me laughing pretty good. The joy of fucking up a truck with no care because it’s a business expense basically it’s hilarious.
Doesn’t look like it backed off there’s no soot above the nozzle. Interesting
Fix the speedometer
well this why i cant have money u just made me buy that tool
My mechanic has the tool, i don't mind paying him to work on the truck when it breaks because his labor rates are right. he charged me $1100 for 6 new injectors. One one was bad but might as well replace the other 5 while the valve cover is opened because it's hard to know how much life the others got.
Yooo we saw y’all
when? lol
We were in a 3rd gen we offered a tow
@@tylerg340 oh no shit hahaah thats badass i remeber y'all I didn't think i needed a tow till about a mile in to that drive. thanks for the offer though.
@@powerstrokecentral ya for sure lmk if y’all ever need a tow lol cool ass truck tho
i appreciate it
Was waiting for the 0-60 at the end cmon
wait for tomorrows video bro shits insane
I love how he advertises the TOPDON scanner but in the video when they're actually scanning the truck they're using snap on. shows me that this scanner isn't the one for me.
That was the techs scanner in the video he bought his own snap on years ago.
@@powerstrokecentral will the TOPDON scanner do injector kill tests?
@@luke.l1121more than likely. I made a little OBII Bluetooth reader do a buzz test
Autel scanners do injector kill test
Holy cow I didn't even notice that. I just assumed that the scanner that they were promoting did the Power Balance test but as I mentioned in another comment, if this scanner that They are promoting doesn't do a cylinder contribution test or the Power Balance test, then it is basically not even worth anything. You can do pretty much everything else you want to with the Torque Pro app which is $5 on the App Store and a $10 Bluetooth adapter to plug into your Diagnostics ports under the dash. The only problem is the torque Pro app cannot do the cylinder contribution test or the Power Balance test. If they could figure that out, they would put all the other scan tools out of business. But again, if this scan tool that They are promoting does not do these two tests, then it is not worth purchasing at all. Don't waste your money.
Yall need unhook ficm when turning over n over going to fry it. Watch eds video on it
Please get a camera strap bruh you're scaring me thinkin its gonna fall out of the truck
You're going to think that I'm trying to be a hater with my comments but that's actually not it at all and I'm trying to help you and educate you because I think that you guys are not understanding a few things when it comes to these engines. I'm not claiming to be an expert but I've done a lot of research and been involved with some various forums and watch some different videos and there's a lot of misconception about a few things and I want to give you some info that you might be overlooking because a lot of people do even people that claim to work on them and know a lot about them.
And just to give you a little background about me, I went to school for automotive technology and worked as a Ford tech at a couple dealerships back when the 7.3 Powerstrokes came out and worked on those engines as well as the drivetrain and pretty much everythIng else with those trucks and cars in that era. So, I'm familiar with how these Powerstrokes and the 6.0 are designed and work for the most part. Again, I'm not claimIng to be an expert but I have a pretty good understsnding of things.
First of all, you were showing head gaskets in your thumbnail so I'm assuming that will indicate that you're going to be changing head gaskets on this engine very soon or maybe that's what your next video is about. Well, you need to understand the situation with the heads on these 6.0 engines as well as the relation of the heads to the engine block.
A lot of people think that the torque to yield factory head bolts are the problem or are "one of the problems" when it comes to these engines and the thing is, the torque to yield head bolts are not necessarily the issue and it's basically a myth for the most part unless you're getting into extremely high horsepower applications. There is a person on UA-cam that has a channel called Too Many Toys and he goes into some various testing between the factory torque to yield head bolts as well as ARP's standard head studs. I highly suggest that you and any of your viewers go and check out their channel.
Basically, when they were doing their testing between the factory torque to yield head bolts and the standard ARP head studs for the 6.0, they found that the factory head bolts had just as much clamping force and possibly even more than the ARP head studs. That would likely indicate that the factory head bolts are not necessarily the issue and is probably more to do with preparation and installation errors more than anything.
I mentioned ARP's "standard" head studs because ARP has competition head studs as well as some other ones for these engines but in most cases you don't need the ones that are $1,400 and up. The ones that are roughly $400 or $450 are typically fine. However, if you're looking to make a 1000 horsepower and up (like I believe you are wanting to eventually do), you will probably want to look at the competition head studs from ARP or another brand if you're looking to do head gaskets and so on.
The problem with the whole head stud compared to factory head bolt debate is that most people don't understand that the factory head bolts are fine even for mild horsepower increases but the thing is, if you go to sell one of these trucks or engines without the head studs installed, a lot of people don't want to consider purchasing the truck because they think that the factory head bolts are a problem when again, that isn't necessarily true. But, because so many people have inaccurate information about the head bolt situation and the myth has been spread pretty much throughout the entire 6.0 community at this point, if you don't put the head studs in, you're basically going to devalue your truck or engine so you just as well put them in for the small amount of money that they cost.
But, as you are considering that, you better understand why just using the standard factory heads themselves is probably not going to be a good idea if you are considering doing that.
For one, the way that the 6.0 was designed, they designed the engine to only have four bolts around each cylinder or combustion chamber as compared to the typical 6 or more in most other diesel engines. As you may know, the 7.3 L Powerstroke and the 6.7 L Powerstroke each have 6 volts around each cylinder or combustion chamber and they typically don't have head gasket problems. So, you have this issue to deal with first and foremost and you can't overcome this since this is a major design flaw from the beginning.
Also, the heads themselves do not have enough material (metal or cast) in between each head bolt boss in the head to provide strength to the head. As a result, the heads have a tendency to bow or warp in the middle of the head and it causes a lot of head gasket leaks and coolant issues as well as combustion loss and other issues. What people don't realize is that even if you want to take the head to a machine shop and have it planed, that is not necessarily going to fix the issue because the head itself is still warped even after you flatten it or plane or mill the head.
You really should not even consider the head especially if it is out of spec for it to be considered to be planed or milled. Ford says if it is out of spec or not straight by more than either 1 thousandths or 2 thousandths, then it is not an usable head so you should get something different. Again, the problem is, people think that even if the head isn't cracked, they can just take it somewhere to a machine shop and have them planenor mill the head and all will be good. But again that is not the case necessarily. If you are out of spec by say 4 thousandths or 6 thousandths and you flatten it by planing it, the head itself is still warped so you have an issue. So, I hope you're going to consider getting a completely different set of heads and hopefully look at a company like Kill Devil Diesel and get their Icon heads with the O rings around the combustion chambers to make sure that they are sealing properly to the engine block.
That brings me to my next point which is that a lot of people don't understand that they also need to check the engine block for flatness or straightness as well and so a lot of people overlook checking for flatness on the engine block side and they just clean up the mating surfaces and think that they can just bolt the heads back to it and don't realize that the engine block itself may not be perfectly flat or straight. So, you need to be making sure that the engine block has a completely 100% flat and smooth surface that is straight so that you don't have any issues as you are putting the heads back on and putting a new head gasket in.
The Channel that I told you about has done research and found that there were people that did head gasket changes or head Replacements on these engines and had failures with them within 10,000 miles or less or sometimes a few thousand miles and in a few cases they immediately had issues even right as they drove away from the shop. The problem is, people weren't actually taking care of the problem and understanding what the problems were so they were just changing head gaskets and cleaning up the mating surfaces and thinking that all was going to be good when that wasn't taking care of the issue. The problem was, they still had warped heads or a warped engine block mating surface or potentially both even after they did the repair and so they never fixed the problem in the first place. So, they ended up having problems immediately after they did the repair.
They found that there are a lot of people that had these stories on the various forums. There were a lot of owners complaining about still having issues after having repairs done. I suspect this is largely due to the fact that people just don't know what they are doing when they are repairing these engines. People are overlooking a lot of things that they need to be checking.
So, I'm going to encourage you to go and look at this person's channel and watch their videos about the heads and block preperation as well as the bolts and other things related to the 6.0 so that you understand what's going on with these engines with regard to the heads and how they mate to the block as well as other things. They do have some videos about other things for these pickups such as better wiring for the batteries and a starter and some other things but most of it is about the engines.
Unfortunately, I understand that the guy has a very monotone voice and you might think that his videos are somewhat boring but, the information in his videos is excellent and the guy is I believe a 17 time ASE certified master technician. He also worked as a friction dynamics professional at one of the car manufacturers. I can't remember if it was Ford or somewhere else but basically he was involved in testing for brakes and their operation.
He is also a member of one of the forums that I would recommend you check out as well that has a ton of information. It is called Ford Truck Enthusiasts. There is another one called Powerstroke Nation.com which is also a good one but I would recommend the first one that I mentioned. The members of the first one know their stuff in and out and a lot of them know more than some of the various Ford technicians around the country. They even have one or two members on there that were engineers of some of the things with these older trucks such as one of them being an engineer of the five-speed 5R110 torqueshift transmission that went into these trucks.
Also, I noticed that you are not using a factory oil filter cap and more than likely not using a factory oil filter that is probably from Napa. I believe I read this on another comment on one of your other videos.
Honestly, if you're taking it to a shop that doesn't know better than to use the proper factory oil filter, then I would suggest you look for a different shop because there are various reasons why you shouldn't be using anything other than the factory oil filter cap hand oil filter. And if the shop that you're using doesn't know better than this, then that would indicate that they probably don't know a lot about these engines.
It has nothing to do with money and trying to save money. It is about the fact that having the incorrect oil filter cap causes oil pressure loss issues and can cause issues with no starts due to oil drain back issues. I don't know if your mechanics are trying to tell you that those things are a bunch of crap but you need to do research about that because you obviously don't know since you're using an aftermarket that looks like it's something from napa. Just because it has been working so far doesn't mean that it's something that you should use. Just do the right thing and use the factory oil filter cap and original factory oil filter. It's going to save you in the long run. It's not worth it considering that you're going to have tens of thousands of dollars wrapped up into this engine over a few dollars of an oil filter and oil filter cap.
Also, one last thing for now. I noticed that when you guys are needing to do repairs on this engine that you are cranking the engine and trying to run the starter for a very long time. I understand that it takes a while to get the air bled through the oil system as well as fuel primed up through the injectors and so on. So, you do need to crank it for a while but it sounds like you are running the starter for more than a minute at a time and that's an extremely long time to run that starter and you're going to end up burning it up.
You can obviously do whatever you want because it's not my money that you're wasting but I'm just telling you that if you're going to run that starter for more than about 20 seconds to 30 seconds max at a time, you're going to likely have it burnt up in no time. I know 20 seconds or 30 seconds doesn't sound like a long time but when you sit there and time it out, that's actually a very long time. I would suggest just trying to do 5 to 6 Cycles at 20 or 30 second intervals and then wit at least 1 minute between each cycle to let the starter cool off a bit instead of trying to just run it for 1 minute or 2 minutes at a time like it sounds like.
I understand that you have edited your video so I don't know if you're actually cranking it that long or not but it sure seems like it.
Warren
Why would he fix his dash tho lol he films it all the time lol
I love you
YOU CAN'T HAVE MY MAN, STEP OFF :D
I know what's wrong with it. It's a 6.0
Oof
First
Dude your videos are awesome!
thanks brotha
Click bait much. You intentionally deceived everyone into thinking you blew your head gasket yet just a stuck injector. Run Hot Shots EDT or Lucas Injector Cleaner every fill up and you'll never have problems with your pump and injectors. The ULSD they sell at the pump is watered down bare minimum sulfur diesel and if ran alone you will more than likely have issues with the fuel system. On a light note I am glad you didn't blow a gasket though I was definitely expecting it on stock head bolts. Keep up the good work! I enjoy hearing that beast.
He is going to need to change those head gaskets before something happens. It's just a matter of when, not if. There are various reasons why I won't get into in this response. But after watching some of his previous videos and reading some of the comments from other people on the other videos, I have this bad feeling that the shop that he is having to do the work at doesn't really know what they should know about these engines and they are doing more of playing around and adding parts to things with not having a full understanding of what's going on with the engines and how they work and operate. There's certain things that they're doing that would show why they don't have as much as they need to. I fear they are going to have something catastrophic happen soon if they don't correct some things first. They are just asking to have the engine blow with some of the things they've done and are still doing.
Black smoke isn't as "cool" as some people think. For starters, it's an indication of a bad fuel/air mixture that can cause major problems down the road or right away. That's just "one" thing that's a problem at this point.
Meh. Chill. It’s a 6.0 lol
This channel should be called i got 100,000 dollars in my wore out 6.0, on the next episode hell be buying a new block n heads soon, u watch, that 6.0 is o nits last leg trust me
Will make great content
I've said this in other comments that he's lucky that the engine hasn't spit its guts out at this point so far. There are various things that they have done that they shouldn't have done at this point so it's amazing that the engine hasn't gave away. I'm sure it's unfortunately just a matter of time. Maybe he's got an extra one sitting around that he is ready to swap or they are already building for all we know. The black smoke doesn't help things at all and it's an indication that they've got a bad tune going on in that thing and that doesn't help things overall either. That, combined with other things that are going on which is likely anything to do with the head gaskets and heads and combination of that area, I'm surprised that it hasn't decided to just give up. It will enforce me probably happen soon. Not because I want it to but just because it's inevitable.
The whole point is to see how far he can push it with these mods to show you can lol
@@Tacos888 I don't know what's so funny about the situation when it's going to end up costing a lot of money. But besides that, people have already figured out pretty much how far you can push these engines so there's no need to do it 20 years later. This has been shown over and over and over endlessly with I don't know how many videos and with various discussions on the various forms online as well as the various Facebook groups. There is 20 years or more of documentation about what these engines can typically handle as a stock or factory setup so it's pretty much pointless to try and do the same thing 20 years later or maybe even 10 years later. It's just beating a dead horse at this point. People have a pretty good idea of what the 6.0 can handle and what needs to be done in order to make sure that it can be more reliable in the long term whether you just want it to be reliable for towing or if you wanted to be stronger for racing or just going fast. It's not our money so it obviously doesn't matter to the viewers but it just doesn't make sense. Again, this stuff has been covered numerous times over the years.
Also, he has pretty much pushed it past the point already as you can tell based on the transmission having issues and his head gaskets more than likely leaking or heads having issues. He surpassed its capacity probably quite a while ago already. So, at this point, he's just trying to figure out when it's actually going to blow. At that point, the engine may not be worth rebuilding which is just pointless. It may be already past that point right now to be honest.
@@Tacos888 only thing he pushing is that hunk of shit in the shop every week hahahah