Transponder Key Teeth Worn Out? TRY THIS TRICK!!!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Originally recorded December 6, 2019.
If you have an older vehicle that uses a key with a transponder chip built in (usually has a rubber or plastic part you turn), eventually, the teeth on that key can wear out as the car ages. When it's time for a replacement key, you can't just get a key cut, you need to get a special transponder key that is programmed to your car.
If you have two keys for the car, chances are, only one of them is worn, and the other one is fine. Take that key to a locksmith and have a copy of it made to just a plain metal key. Now when you try the metal key, the engine won't start.
So what you can do is make a "key sandwich", with the head of the old transponder key that is worn out held to the new metal key, and it'll work just fine. You can experiment with different ways of attaching it. You can take a hacksaw or Dremel tool and cut the worn teeth part of the old transponder key off. Won't look pretty, but it will work, and save you hundreds of dollars!
Thanks for this tip. Definitely not going to spend the money to have a new transponder key made after watching this
You're welcome. This tip is more a workaround, something to get you bywhile you get the problem corrected, but if you want to continue to use it that way, there's nothing stopping you.
Oh yeah I learned all this, THE HARD WAY! Been down that road with a 02 PT Cruiser. I figured it out after 1year of trial and error, and wasted time and money in repair shops replacing starters, etc.
Right, but it takes a guy like me to make a video about it!
What do u mean?
Jay, did the original not start the vehicle? Mine is worn also.. 20 years old and I'm having security light. It turns auxillary but no crank. Gray key on a 2002 dodge grand caravan. The metal key looks very smooth where I would imagine it should be sharper.
Thanks for the info. I lost fob off my first key and teeth wore out on my spare key. I used two keys in a sambwich and it works!! Cheers 👍
Great to hear!
I'm so glad that I don't have to worry about transponder keys with my car which is a 1995 Infiniti Q45. Interestingly enough, it has two different keys. A cheaper looking one that can only unlock the door and start the car, and a big ornate metal one which unlocks the trunk and glovebox in addition to unlocking the car and starting it.
This car was supposed to have that kind of thing too, on Toyotas, they call it the "valet key". That key will open the doors and operate the ignition, but cannot open the trunk or glovebox. I never got the valet key with it. The metal key shown in this video is simply a copy of the teeth on the original key, but without that transponder, the engine fails to start.
Now I know what to do, if this ever happens to me again ~ Great tip ~ Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank GOD for people like you sir, glad I found this video before I had to go today to buy one
You're welcome.
Tried it with my Hyundai Accent 2010: it worked. Thanks Jaykay
No problem Carl!
Very nice.thanx a lot.
Most welcome!
That awensome man love it
Thanks.
thanks, works for honda civic 2001
You're welcome. Should work for any car with a similar system.
My trick, would be removing the chip out of the key head, Then place the chip underneath the column covers near the lock cylinder. Done.
That would disable the immobilizer permanently. In fact, when these first came out, if someone wanted a remote start system added to the car, they would have to sacrifice a key to do it. They'd tie the key up by the lock cylinder.
@@jaykay18 I had a locksmith apparently RIP me off and worst is my car still wont start bur does with a jumpstart. Nothing this guy did was logical but i think becsue I never left his side except for 3 minutes . He went from bad transponder key (I confused now so transponder unit never wear out even if battery dead or s the key"teeth" that wears out ?)to not being able to get codes for key and after 40 min claiming all of a sudden it s the ignition. Now he wanted double on top of money for key which I needed extra. He said it was a deal he d get me a new part new ignition would take 90 minutes. But I stayed . So I said car is very old I ll just use to the way it is for now. Key was getting stuck progressively but that started when I started figuring out how to make it start car as even when battery was charged it would not. I figured out that by really pressing very firmly and slowly it actually started car but ina week key started getting in with difficulty. I also didn't have mu alarm work and I had green alert light key on dashboard come on . This is civic 2006. So anyway this locksmith says it s ignition I say why after 40 minutes u say is key now is igntion (sorry too much communication with people who dont use english... so I degrade). Then he goes in car sprays yins of spray inside and not sure what else as I was couple of feet away inwas there but not breathing down his neck so he does that and says look now wheel is locked and key wont turn. All of a sudden . I go and try and no all locked in. Prior to that I noticed I had lots of juml come out igniton liquids and dirt. I have had plenty of liquids spilled both over key and wheel and key has been through tons of abuse. My other 2 keys were stolen. As a matter of fact the guy who did it returned the transponder key broken but he said some little part was missing from inside and because I'm amateur insuspevt that was the chip and wonder if he kept it on purpose. The locksmith told me he would disable those keys. Now i wonder what he did. He told me igntion had TWO TEETH to replace when he took it out and showed me but I didnt see anything he was saying to be different to be replaced. I took his word and he said he would look for them in his big pile of parts. So I said so no new part . He said no. Price didnt change strangely . I did walk away this time as he said would take 20 minutes to look and replace. I came back 4 minutes later he had igniton back in !!!did he replace the teeth? As I already was suspicious why didnt he wait those couple of minutes to show me ?he had it back in and was starting to put stuff back in. He said he did a super job and this is for life of car. (Well...car won't start). Now i do have issue with battery too which wasnt there before . So car will start with jumpstart. He also made me a metal key which wasn't aware is just for doors and I really dont like he made it as i see no purpose for it. I did drive with it as well after jumpstarting car !!but green key on dhaborad kept flashing both with my key and the metal key. Then I put that metal key aside and didnt use it. I want to dispute my payment with Him and figure out what is wrong with car. I called 2md locksmith he said my transponder key was fine. Igniton too. Bottom line :is there sih thing as "ignition teeth "that would need replacement ?as ultimately this is what he told me he did to.fix the key from being stuck. He got key and wheel locked on 100 percent to convince me to do igniton again that was our of the blue and he sprayed in d 40 and did something else possibly and then said look all locked it s your igniton . Not key. Key has been through tons of abuse. Car starts with jumpstart. Green key flashes on but not much any more. Alarm stopped coming on. Dashboard lights come on when key is out and they flicker for hours and this drains battery every night and this has been going on for a long while. It went away after alternator was changed then came back then new battery which now is kind of old and seems to drain without minutes after stop car. 1st all power in then gone. Sometimes stays longer. 2 mechanics said it s bad even supposedly was good 2 weeks ago. But I feel it has plenty of power to start the car yet won't. Jumpstart does it. Can a jumpstart override transponder ? I never knew about trasnporder noone told me keep key away from water as a matter of fact I was told all is designed to withstand abuse and iwas in situations to our car through such. I also have a mechanic who is very rough with my key and it started getting stuck 1st time after he fixed alternator. Also I noticed locksmith was very rough at times trying get it in trunk even trunk lock is visibly broken and I told him it doesnt go in . Well did he really fix /replace "teeth on igntion is there sick a thing? He told me all is perfect now. Yet on receipt he lies he made me a transponder key. He neve told me metal key is not for driving. He told me is was basic version of my key a back up. He spoke good English but played games with me. As a woman I guess I only had half read of what I know now. I read more after. Besides my battery in think is my key. It s visiblt worn out. Battery doesnt work open doors. Wont start car unless jumpstarted.
Ps . Locksmith once had igntion out showed me the codes for key he wasnt able obtain earlier for 40 minutes and told me to take photo of them so I did . I felt as if he needed the igniton out in order get key codes. Then he said ignition was just very dirty. I think he broke it on purpose to claim to get it out to get codes for key. But then key goes in after this prior to that was getting stuck. However there was a lot of d 40 inside it was leaking. I been having green warning key light come on for months. Again he claims he fixed my ignition by replacing "2 teef"
@@liroiter6002 I don't think the locksmith was far off. Instead, it sounds like you don't take good care of your car, or the key. There aren't "teeth" in the ignition, but rather "pins". And yes, those indeed can wear out.
As for your flickering lights and dead battery, that has nothing to do with the locksmith. With all due respect, if you took better care of your car, you wouldn't be having any of these problems.
@@jaykay18 the car was stolen for months and vandalized. The locksmith was sure it was the key as originally I needed extra key anyway. He tried obtaining codes from floor lock next to driver seat took it out then was looking in his phone for 40 !!! Minutes he wasnt able get codes to make a new key. Only then !! He said wasnt my ney but igntion. Iwas there all that time. And also was starnge I asked why. He said well your key opens the door (manually ) so that s why it snot the key. I wondered he knew that all those 40 minutes and only now he decided it s ignition after unable get codes for keys. He also demanded cash by the way which prior I had confirmed i want to pay Card. Also I don't get it why all of sudden he locked my wheel when I said I wont do igntion I ll just lark car long term (as that s what I was going to do but it gave me a lot of issue after he left with green warning light with key shape flashing after he left. It would flash even when I jumsprar car. Also he charged me 250 for this "fix"claiming was huge discount. That turned out to be a lie that s more than others would have chatged for what he claims he did.
Well, no problems when it's a new car on a lease, we get the good first week and the next owners get all the problems.
Has this happened on any of your other cars?
Not exactly. What I mean is, it's never happened on another car with an immobilizer system.
1. My dad's '87 Camry's ignition keys are so worn out from "The Crusher", that he barely has any keys that work. In fact, he even removed the lock cylinder and pulled a few pins from the lock to help it work better.
2. My old Chevy had such a worn out ignition lock or key (not sure which) that you could pull the key out of the ignition while the car was running. That was convenient if you had to lock or unlock the glovebox at a traffic light.
3. The wif's car, actually quite a number of years ago, almost stranded us due to a worn key. I don't remember exactly the deal, but we were out at the end of the Guyland in Riverhead, and the key wouldn't turn. How and why it happened right there I don't know, but after 10 minutes of playing with it we got it to turn and drove home. Took the key out, tried again, and again it wouldn't turn. Got the other key and that worked smooth as silk. So, we had copies of that key made, and the worn one was destroyed.
Made in Japan for you!
Have any of those newer copies failed since you got them?
Nope, they all still work.
Will the worn key turn the ignition but not start it?
If the key is so worn it will no longer turn the ignition cylinder, you would then use a spare key that was cut before the first key wore out to turn the cylinder, using the transponder head from the worn key in an "sandwich style" configuration as shown. If the worn key still turns in the ignition but the car won't start, you have other issues. If you don't have another key that's in good shape, you're out of lock and will have to see a locksmith or the dealer.
@@jaykay18 my old key still turns it.. but it won't start. I thought maybe inside the cylinder it needed a sharper edge to allow it to start or something. Do you know if these transponders even go bad? They feel really well built and durable. Sealed well
@@xlargetophat"Won't start" is a bit ambiguous. That could mean "starter engages and engine cranks over, but will not run", or could mean "nothing happens when I turn the key to start". I need a clarification.
Check the security light. If it goes out when the old key is inserted, the engine immobilizer system is satisfied it's the correct key and the engine is "mobilized" and should start normally. If that light stays on, the engine will crank but not run.
@@jaykay18 no crank. I'm going to pay $80 for a second key I guess with a transponder. I think that might be my first option before I start questioning the immobilizer module and PCM. I know the starter works and relay. I jumped the starter with a wire st the relay port.. and it cranked over..
@@jaykay18 I went into a Menards just now and used a key making kiosk. It asked me to insert my key. I put it in and it said it could make a transponder key for me and mail it in 2-3 business days. I would assume my key is readable because this kiosk was able to read it... Interesting 🤔
Interesting that the engine will still crank. I think on mine, it won’t do anything with the wrong one.
I didn't know your car even had an immobilizer. If all it does is a starter kill, that's pretty easy to defeat with jumper cables under the hood, you can run power right to the starter.
This car kills ignition, fuel, or both.
It may do that and kill the starter. I’ll have to check the owners manual. If you check out my timing belt or scan tool video, you can see the immobilizer light go on for a couple of seconds when I start the engine. That means it’s valid, quick blinks means it’s not.
The book for mine simply mentions the immobilizer, it doesn't say what it does or how it does it.
@@jaykay18 I'll check out mine tomorrow. Global Colding got us good today, my dad and I just spent the last couple of hours getting an ice layer off the driveway and front walkway, and I'm beat. Luckily we have this metal shovel, I think used to be my grandfather's. Helps a lot.
@@jaykay18 Ah okay. Based on what the manual says, I think it operates the same as yours. It says that the immobilizer system will stall the engine. So I think it will crank like yours, and not go beyond that. My dad's 1996 Mazda obviously didn't have that, but it did have an amber "SECURITY" light on the dash that would blink occasionally when the car is locked. My immobilizer light pretty much performs the same function.
The new metal key i had cut gets caught in the ignition when turning, something needs to be filed but i dont know were,. Any suggestions ?
Go back to whoever cut the key, they need to polish it on the wire wheel more to remove burrs., most likely. Or, in time, it will wear down and operate smoother.
@@jaykay18 .. thats what i was thinking, new key sharp edges need buffing. Next time i try that damn key ill go to a mechanic incase it gets stuck. I will take it back to have it buffed a little
@@ancientdiscoverys I once got a couple of car keys cut, and they didn't work. One of them they didn't cut "deep enough". The other one needed additional buffing for it to work. The place waited for me while I tried the key.
If your key was cut by one of those automatic machines, find a different place. Get an old school person with the old pantograph manual cutter, they will make you a good key that works.
@@jaykay18 ... funny enough i think your right about the buffing
@@jaykay18 . When you say they didnt work right what do you mean, did they get stuck in the ignition?