Before I made my own keys I would Play Mech Arena in the dealer waiting lounge. Install Mech Arena for FREE here on Mobile and PC ✅ clik.cc/RDK4A and get a special starter pack to help kickstart your game!
Is there a calibration facility on the Chinese key cutter? Run that, the probe and reamer may be out of line. Or the reamer is wrong diameter or extremely worn. Also tighten up all bolts, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to check. You could always rerun the program on the same key, to see if it cuts more on the second pass. Good luck 🤞
Recalibrate the machine, should come with an aluminum piece that fits in the jaw in order to perform calibration. Sometimes the probe could be bent as well so everything will be out of wack.
The probe and cutting bit need to be calibrated. Poke around in the settings menu and see if there is an option to calibrate or zero the probe to the bit. An adjustment might be in one of the holders of the probe or the cutting bit.
Protip: if you buy a replacement key with a keypad and the plastic has a rough textured feel to it, take it apart and wet sand the plastic with a high grit sand paper like 2000. Makes a huge difference to how it feels. I’ve also bought cheap keyless entry kits before that have cheap plastic feeling remotes. I smooth them then add some weight inside. A nickle or some other coin works really well.
Dude I need like 10 keys made. Might be cheaper for me to fly you in to Chicago, put you in an $8 a night motel on the Southside and have you make me keys for a day. Let me know how that sounds.
As a manufacturing maintenance manager and former technician. You probably need to baseline the equipment because it is out of calibration. You do that by writing down the distance it should cut to and the actual cut and then input the reference offset into the reference screen…..older machines not ran by servo or stepper drives have mechanical offset usually a set screw or shoulder bolt on the home reference sensor.
#1 make sure that the machine is calibrated. #2 make sure that the cuts the machine is displaying on the screen match your key before cutting. None of the cuts were correct. #3 make sure you are on wifi and also check if the machine needs an app to update.
@@cyberhikerdd I own the Dolphin XP-005L. My machine updates from time to time and the app itself it's constantly updating. I can tell his key-cutting machine ain't calibrated correctly. Even thou it looks like the machine is decoding the key as it should it's not. It has way too many 0's. He should have compared the key to the decoded key display on the screen. He could have saved all that trouble and hassle. I guess he did it for the video. I would have used blank keys instead of proximity/transponder keys. Honestly, since all he needs is to duplicate keys, I would have gone with the dolphin XP-007. The same price as the machine in the video plus doesn't need to be plugged in. Easy to use
9:31, you need to be using that "calibrate" button, or something like it, on the left side of the tablet screen. You have an offset issue on the cutting tool. The machine is behaving as if it thinks the cutting tool is larger than it actually is physically. Somewhere there should be an option to set the cutting tool diameter. Set the tool diameter smaller by 1/2 the amount that the key is oversize. Alternatively it could be an issue where the machine thinks the measuring probe is larger than it actually is. It's quite possible the probe and the cutter are supposed to be the same diameter, but you can see that your probe is smaller than the cutting tool. Perhaps someone replaced the probe or cutter with one of a different size, or the probe diameter is set incorrectly in the machine settings. Hopefully it's possible to change them., Or with marginal Chinese manufacturing, they simply supplied it with the wrong size tool or probe. If it's any of the above issues, it's a very easy fix once you find the way to adjust the setting.
I am posting this about halfway through the video. It seems that the machine needs to be calibrated. The fact that all of the keys are off by the same amount tells me this. What's great is that due to the way they were cut, you can reuse almost all of the badly cut keys. All except the one which the cut is in the center of the key. Pay attention to the binning and notice that it cuts them according to how it how they are displayed. I'm pretty sure that it is an extremely easy fix.
Professional automotive locksmith here: Calibrate the key machine.🙈😂 The escalade did NOT require that programmer, if there is 1 set...turn door key 6 times, screen will pop up "ready for key #.." (Discontinued 2016+) Picking the lock is one thing...originating a NEW key to work properly is another.
In my experience when a CNC is acting like that it’s because the 0 point is not set properly. See if you can recalibrate the coordinate system for the cutter. Also like other ppl said- get a new bit. Smaller bit size than what it is calibrated for would cause that issue too
Was thinking the exact same thing. Seems to be cutting way less material than it should be. Either it has the wrong bit in place (or wrong bit programmed, or the bit is bad) or there is a way to program your zero. I also wonder if key width is universal? If not, I wonder if key width can be programmed in some way?
I agree 👍 💯 recalibrate I was thinking the same thing. By seeing how it automatically finds points. Then comes back to cut first thought was this is a mini CNC and needs calibration.
@@joec3897 Since it doesn't work from the numbers (last segment) and it detects numbers but fails to cut them, I was going to go for a calibration issue. But I can see how a warn cutter would cause the calibration to shift over time. Either way, I think it's worth more poking around rather than giving up on it. I'd first check to see if there's a calibration mode.
I think the machine just needs servicing, something on it is worn out or incorrectly calibrated. Probably really hard to find someone who knows how to service them though.
Looking forward to part 2 when you try the machine again after re-calibrating. It is significant that the same problem arose when cutting from settings rather than a master - must be the mill that is set too far from any blank.
It only scans one side of the key because both sides on that style key are identical. That's why you can insert the key into the lock either way and it will work.
There may be problem with the material of the blanks. I bought this sort of blank for VW GOLF from 2002, I went to the guy that cuts the keys he said that he cant use my blank because it is made of cheaper, harder material and that it wouldnt cut it well enough. He replicated the key on to the blank that he has and everything works perfectly. He had very similar machine as this one in the video.
I am not familiar with that machine, but I have cut many keys manually and this machine is not even cutting them close. I like the idea of buying a newer cutter like this that will do newer models. Now you know what to ask for you next purchase. (Must do whatever newer vehicles you might own) Sam, I am shocked you gave up on cutting your own. It must be doable! We always learn from you not being scared to try something new.
*Hint. Cover the remote part of the key with painters tape, before you start the cutting. It will keep any brass chips from getting into the button holes by chance. Great video as always.
For ford you might be prompted for a security code, which is the door pass code on the pillar, if the card is not in the glove box with the owners manual, you can also find the security code on the backside of the fuse box inside the cabin.
Lock picking lawyer does a great job explaining how to use tools like this, sells them, and shows how locks with so called secure ratings are not so great. It's a great resource of knowledge.
The best key cutters are the manual ones. I have a pantograph one that has a little mill like yours on a sprung arm that holds it up, so you just pull gently down on it and follow around the original around with a feeler, and the mill follows exactly the same path. You can do those key blades with it as well as long as you set it up with the end mill set to the same depth as the feeler. Only thing to consider is that if the feeler and end mill are exactly the same size, duplicating an old key will duplicate the wear as well.
@Ben Gray No but neither does his if you watch the video to the end! 😂 There are other ways to cut keys from decoded cylinders. Point is if someone wants a key cutting machine, manual ones are better then CNC ones, unless you're paying big money.
You should have brought a key blank for whatever vehicle you drove to pick up key machine with and had the seller demo the key cutter and try the newly cut key right there before purchasing.
As many have pointed out already the machine needs calibration done first before you cut. I have used similar machines before and they come with a blank specifically for calibration. Also it does look like on the Ram key at least like the cuts are in the right spots just not deep enough. This could be caused by the pit end mill not being the right size or type. Also most keys are identical on both sides so it only needs to measure one side and just cut it the same on both.
I bought an older completely manual key cutting machine off marketplace for like $50 and have used it to cut keys for my cars successfully. I love the idea of that computer controlled machine but it definitely needs some work to be useful.
I like this direction towards the DIYers. This was a very informative video. There only so many broken cars you can fix on UA-cam to be original. Your style will always be special tough.
When I cut keys (in a hardware store), it was very important to run them back and forth on the wire wheel. Not only for removing burs, but also for rounding the edges to make them the same as the originals.
I would check if the cutters diameter in your machine is the same as the actual cutter diameter. From past experiences setting up / operating a CNC, If CNC thinks the cutter is bigger than actual, less material will be removed. If cnc thinks cutter is thinner, more material would be removed. A couple of the keys have very little material removed. Hope this helps.
i think your best bet is the manual key cutting machine. they will just take the codes or do a copy if you have the original. You will find the original keys get very warn and the ignition also gets warn with the key. Sometimes attempting to make a new key with the original code will not work due to the wear.
Hardware stores here (home depot and lowe's) will not cut blanks not purchased from them and my local lock smith charged $20 per key to cut and programming was extra $200. Your machine probably need a calibration.
im a locksmith and I own that exact key cutter it works flawlessly. you just gotta know how to use it correctly. you gotta search the key blank name and place it correctly. I've had it for 3 years no problems.
I like the new direction of the channel! How to make keys, making your Ferrari a manual, fixing the r8 frame (ok, this one is older), the Escalade project, etc. Not just cool cars, but a unique twist not seen anywhere else.
yup, +1 for the get new bit and check your zero calibration for that cutter. its wayyyy off. there's a like, $15 calibration block of a piece of aluminum thats a specific size, and you run some mode in the tablet and it should in theory fix it. kukai-cblock-part the machine is the kukai sec-e9 (in theory). with that and a new cutter, it should be squared away. bonus points if you already have the block and didn't realize it.
I simply manually cut a key for my Ford with a file. I edged up on every cut until the key worked. The trial and error process took awhile though but for one key wasn't too bad. More confidence in the method would make it faster but I didn't want to remove any more material than required to make it work.
I have an automated machine and they all need to be calibrated... specially after an end-mill change (which it looks like yours had had). You might quiz the manufacturer on how to do the calibration after a mill change.
Lost my second keyfob for an AUDI TT last week, here in brazil I got quote almost 1.5k for a replacement fob, ordered it from europe directly (from another dealer) for $500, still its a month+ wait. Great video.
Ypu forgot about an important part of the "set it and forget it", the setting it. It likely requires setting up, it could also be damaged, but I would say it is more likely either the wrong size cutter, or it needs to be calibrated.
The machine is out of origin as others stated. A work around for this is to run your blank twice but flip it over. On the very first key cut in the video, you can clearly see the centering of the cut is off.
I have a similar machine. Those are very reliable if you set them up properly. It seems the cuts are off. You need to calibrate the machine first. There are some settings somewhere in the menu. Find the manual and adjust the settings. And it'll work.
Dude your keycutter is not broken. It just needs to be calibrated. Also make sure there isn't an offset of some type turned on. I would just look up a manual for it.
I wonder if the key cutter has options for the diameter of the cutting bit, or a calibration. I looks like it simply is off a tick or so, like if the software thought it had a 4mm cutter in it and it actually had a 3mm cutter, it would cut too shallow, which it looked like it was doing.
This was a great video Sam. Ive spent $1200 getting a key replaced for a 2016 LR4 after being told only the dealer could program the fob without a key. May have to look into this if it happens again. Hard to stomach that cost for what is obviously 20min worth of work.
unfortunetly an all keys lost on a Range Rover is eemprom. (gotta pull a module, solder onto it etc, Advanced Key makiing) if it was only an add key usually it can be done. but anthing newer tends to be eemprom only especially most luxary and euro vehicles.
Please do more videos like this, very helpful. I had to pay $800 to have my Lexus key fobs made and it is highway robbery. Anything we can do to break the strangle hold the dealers have on us fixing cars, the better.
When I was a parts guy at Dodge Chrysler I could just look at the key and tell you the key code. You had 7 notches along the key and each notch could be 1-4 deep. We punched out the keys by hand though, no machines.
this is a very helpful video because its a nightmare to get cars from the auction with out a key and have problems to move the car outside the auction yard, i had f up tires on cars that the steering wheel its locked and you have to tow the vehicle or that you already have it on a tow bar and then you find out that the key its missing so it does help to know there is an alternative to this problem that doesent involve the steelership
Yeah with the machine I have, I just "decode" the key myself, each key "code" is just the depth of cut in each position, you can actually get an "analog" key decoder and just manually input the cut numbers yourself :) EDIT: well looks like you did do that near the end of the video lol.
Sam, did you get the calibrating key that comes with the cutting machine, They need to be calibrated regularly, You put the calibration key in and push calibrate. In the menu there is a setting to do all this.
He does have a key cutting machine, its been in a few of his vids, but I think its a traditional one where the cutter mechanically follows the key that's being copied.
@@TIMMEH19991 He does have a manual machine but it can use templates so he can cut by code. It's just cutting manually though, lpl can handle that with ease, lol
Great video. I cut my own Silverado laser key on my CNC mill. Scanned it on a flatbed scanner, and modeled it in CAD, programmed the g-code and cut a couple spare keys - worked the first try. Unfortunately I had to go to a dealership to have the fobs programmed. Now I have to make one for my daughters Toyota key for my daughter's car...
That towing of that red car was really satisfying, I once went to the mall on Black Friday and a lady driving a brand new Mini Cooper decided it was fine to cut me off and take my parking spot, mind you I was already signaling and waiting for the spot, this lady blew in and walked away. I had a present for her tho, I had a box of nails and screws from my job, and the rest is history lol.
I don't quite understand why you need this very expensive automatic key cutter, where I dupe my keys they use a manual tool that you just have to slide over your key while the new one gets cutted on the other end. BTW, we don't really need the key code for your Rover, you just gave us high quality pictures of the keyblades of all of your cars, we can even 3D print them...
The reason to use a code machine like this is to go back to factory cuts. Keys are brass and wear over time, when you use a manual duplicator you are starting the key with cuts that are already degraded from what they should be. This reduces the longevity of the key and also keeps the brand new key from working as well as it could in some cases.
We have a local locksmith shop that only charges $5 to cut a key. I program them with my Launch x431 Diagun V. I love that little scanner it is my go to for so much stuff. I was only supposed to come with 2 years of updates and it told me that the updates expired, but it keeps on updating.
I'm celebrating a $30k stock portfolio today. I started this journey with 4k. have invested on time and also with the right tearn now I have time for my family and the life ahead of me
Many years ago I had a key replication done on my father's BMW M5, was supposed to be only a dealership ability, it worked perfectly, meant I could borrow the M5 whenever I wanted to, damn that car was quick, Rj in Oz
For the key cutting you're better off going to a key cutter with a pantograph(old fashioned) machine which will repeat the profile of your existing key. It's programing the fob which is the (usually) expensive part.
Apart from what's been mentioned by other replies I would add . use the right diameter cutter for specific applications. Also a sharp /new cutter would improve things a lot. Great and informative video Sam😊
Your key machine is basically a CNC milling machine. It looks like the keys are similar but not cut deep enough. With a mill, you have to tell the machine 1) where zero is for x and y. The machine looks like it goes and touches the tip of the key but it’s off to the side. I would think it should touch off on the center of the tip. 2) you tell a machine the diameter of the cutter. Maybe the machine was crashed and is out of its original position. Or Maybe it has the wrong size cutter. OR See if maybe there is a way to re-home the machine. Good luck!
Regardless if it's a good key making machine or not, I think it has amazing potential as a desktop CNC machine. I'd buy one if it had an open source API.
Really interesting, although the cutting machine wouldn't work for current cars it's still going to work for most padlocks and house keys, so all is not lost!
I recently had to program two new keys and fobs for a 2005 Mitsubishi Verada. I just followed the instructions and they were all programme a the same time by me from inside the car and without any special piece of equipment. But then it was a 2005 so maybe they were very basic and easy to program.
I️ loved this one. I️ recently have the same issue. One 1key and beeper for toyota sequoia 2006. I️ bought an uncut/deprogrammed key on ebay. Take the key to the hardware for cut, the guy there did cut my key but did not guarantee to work because they don’t do car keys. They did charged me and I️ was ok with that. The key didn’t work, however, I️ was able to nske it work by comparing the new key with the original and complete the cut using a lime. So Samrac, maybe you can do the same with the keys that didn’t work for you. Keep doing these kind of videos; they are really helpful as well as entertainment.
You need to calibrate the machine, make sure you have the cutter size correct and that will solve your issues, also learn what key blades they are and cut and decide them that way
I have an 05 Durango Limited with the full security system and I broke the chip part of the only key I had. The dealer wanted it towed in to make a new key. A mobile locksmith used that same tool to read the code from the lock cylinder to double check my key was right, then used his key cutting machine in the van, and "lost all keys" to make a new one. Worked great, but cost $300... Still cheaper than getting a new Volvo key from the dealer lol.
That key machine looks like it needs to be calibrated. I have a similar Chinese automatic key machine I've used for years this one is a little bit more advanced than that. I really think that you need to check in the settings and recalibrate the machine. If it's not calibrated properly every key that it cuts will be off. Because these key machines are made to be carried around the vibration and movement of them can throw off the calibration way off to the point that they do not cut any keys properly. Normally the Leshi tool needs a decoder to decode the numbers you get originally from it to actually work. These programming tools are normally hit on me sometimes you get one that can do a few cars sometimes you get one that doesn't work at all. The more high end programming tools like Autel seem to work for most vehicle manufacturers. But these carry a pricey subscription service you have to pay yearly or monthly. The Chinese variant of these two tends to also be hit or miss and very expensive at the end of the day. All keys lost situation are more or less very technical and some manufacturers are easier than others for instance all keys lost on a Honda is easy . A Toyota and Mercedes-Benz much more harder to program an all keys last. You can message me if you need more info.
I bought a pair of blank keys for about $30, took them to Canadian Tire and they cut them for free, since these were my own keys. I programmed the keys myself using the only master key and putting the van into programming mode as per the handbook. Stealership wanted hundreds and hundred and hundreds of dollars for this.
In Australia most suburban shopping mall key cutting booths can do this, way less cost than a dealer, programmed remote fob, immobiliser chip, the lot. Only issue is if your car is really new, say first 3-5 years and/or from more expensive brands.
Very interesting, I liked this kind of video. If one of us DIY people could actually figure it out, it would drive down those expensive costs from dealerships.
Have you tried using a slightly larger cutting bit? Because it looks like it is not cutting deep enough, and so with a larger diameter bit, it should cut more material out. I would say that it is definitely worth a go.
You can also program keys with simple USB OBD2 readers, as long as you have the right program to interface with your vehicle. If you have a laptop and buy a decent OBD2 reader, you can do the whole process that you did with that more expensive and specialized machine for under $100, no problem.
Great stuff! I like these kinds of videos in your line up! You always do an excellent and comprehensive job with relaying usable information through these. Thanks!
Since you have the key decoder, does that key cutting machine have a manual input? Might want to see if it still works as a cutter correctly to narrow down which side is going wrong.
Every Key cutting machine is based upon a specific code table, year make and model doesn't practically matter. The ford keys before the laser key integration were the X code table. as far as the GM key there is the Z code talble and the V code table, 8 cut vs 10 cut. What ever that machine is just simply needs a calibration, its not broken.
Before I made my own keys I would Play Mech Arena in the dealer waiting lounge. Install Mech Arena for FREE here on Mobile and PC ✅ clik.cc/RDK4A and get a special starter pack to help kickstart your game!
Is there a calibration facility on the Chinese key cutter? Run that, the probe and reamer may be out of line. Or the reamer is wrong diameter or extremely worn. Also tighten up all bolts, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to check. You could always rerun the program on the same key, to see if it cuts more on the second pass. Good luck 🤞
3D printing keys works and probably cheaper.
Recalibrate the machine, should come with an aluminum piece that fits in the jaw in order to perform calibration. Sometimes the probe could be bent as well so everything will be out of wack.
What happened to Sage?
@@CCW1911 You will end up with a lot of broken keys, not to mention how would that work for chipped keys?
The probe and cutting bit need to be calibrated. Poke around in the settings menu and see if there is an option to calibrate or zero the probe to the bit. An adjustment might be in one of the holders of the probe or the cutting bit.
Maybe replace the bit, oh you already said that.
Also make sure the cutting bit and the reading bit are the right diameter to what the tablet thinks it should be
Thank Brett Farrar, I was about to suggest the same-thing. I believe you need to do a re-cal every-time you change keys.
Also make sure the cutting tool is the correct diameter.
spot on
Protip: if you buy a replacement key with a keypad and the plastic has a rough textured feel to it, take it apart and wet sand the plastic with a high grit sand paper like 2000. Makes a huge difference to how it feels. I’ve also bought cheap keyless entry kits before that have cheap plastic feeling remotes. I smooth them then add some weight inside. A nickle or some other coin works really well.
I was just about to type the same exact thing that is so odd
Dude I need like 10 keys made. Might be cheaper for me to fly you in to Chicago, put you in an $8 a night motel on the Southside and have you make me keys for a day. Let me know how that sounds.
That’s a good deal if you ask me
It’s an 8 dollars an hour hotel right
Like 100 dollers to cut a Lexus key had it done for my Lexus gs300
You need to find a good local locksmith Alex. Most good locksmiths will cut and program your key for under $100 if you can take the car to them.
@@joec3897 It was a joke - Alex pranking Sam
The Lock Picking Lawyer revealing his identity finally…😏
Fr same exact sayings as him
It was a Fluke.
How is the lock pick tool spelt Sam ? Ace video btw as always
@@Seaside33 lishi
@@Seaside33
Look up Covert Companion. That's LPL's store.
As a manufacturing maintenance manager and former technician. You probably need to baseline the equipment because it is out of calibration. You do that by writing down the distance it should cut to and the actual cut and then input the reference offset into the reference screen…..older machines not ran by servo or stepper drives have mechanical offset usually a set screw or shoulder bolt on the home reference sensor.
#1 make sure that the machine is calibrated. #2 make sure that the cuts the machine is displaying on the screen match your key before cutting. None of the cuts were correct. #3 make sure you are on wifi and also check if the machine needs an app to update.
Came here to say this: calibration!!
For sure calibration, on that last key it looked like it detected the cuts in the original based on the display but didn't cut the blank accurately.
@@cyberhikerdd I own the Dolphin XP-005L. My machine updates from time to time and the app itself it's constantly updating. I can tell his key-cutting machine ain't calibrated correctly. Even thou it looks like the machine is decoding the key as it should it's not. It has way too many 0's. He should have compared the key to the decoded key display on the screen. He could have saved all that trouble and hassle. I guess he did it for the video. I would have used blank keys instead of proximity/transponder keys. Honestly, since all he needs is to duplicate keys, I would have gone with the dolphin XP-007. The same price as the machine in the video plus doesn't need to be plugged in. Easy to use
I love how Sam had a lockpickinglawyer moment
You beat me to it.
Even saying things like a little click out of 5 haha
Nothing on one …
Everyone was waiting for it!
And he did it 4 times to prove it was not a fluke he failed. 🤣🤣🤣
9:31, you need to be using that "calibrate" button, or something like it, on the left side of the tablet screen. You have an offset issue on the cutting tool. The machine is behaving as if it thinks the cutting tool is larger than it actually is physically. Somewhere there should be an option to set the cutting tool diameter. Set the tool diameter smaller by 1/2 the amount that the key is oversize. Alternatively it could be an issue where the machine thinks the measuring probe is larger than it actually is. It's quite possible the probe and the cutter are supposed to be the same diameter, but you can see that your probe is smaller than the cutting tool. Perhaps someone replaced the probe or cutter with one of a different size, or the probe diameter is set incorrectly in the machine settings. Hopefully it's possible to change them., Or with marginal Chinese manufacturing, they simply supplied it with the wrong size tool or probe.
If it's any of the above issues, it's a very easy fix once you find the way to adjust the setting.
I am posting this about halfway through the video. It seems that the machine needs to be calibrated. The fact that all of the keys are off by the same amount tells me this. What's great is that due to the way they were cut, you can reuse almost all of the badly cut keys. All except the one which the cut is in the center of the key. Pay attention to the binning and notice that it cuts them according to how it how they are displayed. I'm pretty sure that it is an extremely easy fix.
I think it needs calibrated also and I wonder if there’s a hardware update download for it like my xhorse machine has.
Yeah I was thinking that also especially when he showed the way it cut them... I'm not an expert or anything I just tinker with stuff.
Professional automotive locksmith here:
Calibrate the key machine.🙈😂
The escalade did NOT require that programmer, if there is 1 set...turn door key 6 times, screen will pop up "ready for key #.."
(Discontinued 2016+)
Picking the lock is one thing...originating a NEW key to work properly is another.
How do u know this? Does the manufacturer share these stuff?
In my experience when a CNC is acting like that it’s because the 0 point is not set properly. See if you can recalibrate the coordinate system for the cutter. Also like other ppl said- get a new bit. Smaller bit size than what it is calibrated for would cause that issue too
Was thinking the exact same thing. Seems to be cutting way less material than it should be. Either it has the wrong bit in place (or wrong bit programmed, or the bit is bad) or there is a way to program your zero.
I also wonder if key width is universal? If not, I wonder if key width can be programmed in some way?
Yes I agree, could be the Home position is not correct.
I agree 👍 💯 recalibrate I was thinking the same thing. By seeing how it automatically finds points. Then comes back to cut first thought was this is a mini CNC and needs calibration.
I thought of that first
I finally stole my first car today, this video really gave me that confidence. Thanks Sam, keep up the good work
Bring my damn car back!😊
Yep. This was a nice Stealing Cars tutorial video. And exactly how cars in our neighborhood got stolen.
Make sure the endmill (cutter) is new and the right size. Your cutting steel without coolant. There will be wear rather quick on the cutter.
Keys aren’t generally made of steel. Normally brass, hence the gold colour to the chips and cut surface.
The keys are brass so the bits don’t wear out very fast. The machine either needs to be calibrated, may have a bent feeler tip, or may just be broken.
My first thought as well. Probably a worn out cutter.
@@joec3897 Since it doesn't work from the numbers (last segment) and it detects numbers but fails to cut them, I was going to go for a calibration issue. But I can see how a warn cutter would cause the calibration to shift over time. Either way, I think it's worth more poking around rather than giving up on it. I'd first check to see if there's a calibration mode.
I think the machine just needs servicing, something on it is worn out or incorrectly calibrated. Probably really hard to find someone who knows how to service them though.
Looking forward to part 2 when you try the machine again after re-calibrating. It is significant that the same problem arose when cutting from settings rather than a master - must be the mill that is set too far from any blank.
It only scans one side of the key because both sides on that style key are identical. That's why you can insert the key into the lock either way and it will work.
There may be problem with the material of the blanks. I bought this sort of blank for VW GOLF from 2002, I went to the guy that cuts the keys he said that he cant use my blank because it is made of cheaper, harder material and that it wouldnt cut it well enough. He replicated the key on to the blank that he has and everything works perfectly. He had very similar machine as this one in the video.
I am not familiar with that machine, but I have cut many keys manually and this machine is not even cutting them close. I like the idea of buying a newer cutter like this that will do newer models. Now you know what to ask for you next purchase. (Must do whatever newer vehicles you might own) Sam, I am shocked you gave up on cutting your own. It must be doable! We always learn from you not being scared to try something new.
*Hint. Cover the remote part of the key with painters tape, before you start the cutting. It will keep any brass chips from getting into the button holes by chance.
Great video as always.
For ford you might be prompted for a security code, which is the door pass code on the pillar, if the card is not in the glove box with the owners manual, you can also find the security code on the backside of the fuse box inside the cabin.
Lock picking lawyer does a great job explaining how to use tools like this, sells them, and shows how locks with so called secure ratings are not so great. It's a great resource of knowledge.
The best key cutters are the manual ones. I have a pantograph one that has a little mill like yours on a sprung arm that holds it up, so you just pull gently down on it and follow around the original around with a feeler, and the mill follows exactly the same path. You can do those key blades with it as well as long as you set it up with the end mill set to the same depth as the feeler. Only thing to consider is that if the feeler and end mill are exactly the same size, duplicating an old key will duplicate the wear as well.
That’s not going to be able to cut a new blade from a decoded lock though.
@Ben Gray No but neither does his if you watch the video to the end! 😂 There are other ways to cut keys from decoded cylinders. Point is if someone wants a key cutting machine, manual ones are better then CNC ones, unless you're paying big money.
You gotta adjust the cutting axis depth or use a larger bit. Looks like it’s a setup issue, not an electronics problem.
You should have brought a key blank for whatever vehicle you drove to pick up key machine with and had the seller demo the key cutter and try the newly cut key right there before purchasing.
As many have pointed out already the machine needs calibration done first before you cut. I have used similar machines before and they come with a blank specifically for calibration. Also it does look like on the Ram key at least like the cuts are in the right spots just not deep enough. This could be caused by the pit end mill not being the right size or type. Also most keys are identical on both sides so it only needs to measure one side and just cut it the same on both.
I bought an older completely manual key cutting machine off marketplace for like $50 and have used it to cut keys for my cars successfully. I love the idea of that computer controlled machine but it definitely needs some work to be useful.
I like this direction towards the DIYers. This was a very informative video. There only so many broken cars you can fix on UA-cam to be original. Your style will always be special tough.
When I cut keys (in a hardware store), it was very important to run them back and forth on the wire wheel. Not only for removing burs, but also for rounding the edges to make them the same as the originals.
Sam does his Lockpicking Lawyer impression flawlessly
machine needs calibration -- I'll give you $200 for it
😂
Garus is the certified calibrater
I would check if the cutters diameter in your machine is the same as the actual cutter diameter. From past experiences setting up / operating a CNC, If CNC thinks the cutter is bigger than actual, less material will be removed. If cnc thinks cutter is thinner, more material would be removed. A couple of the keys have very little material removed. Hope this helps.
i think your best bet is the manual key cutting machine. they will just take the codes or do a copy if you have the original. You will find the original keys get very warn and the ignition also gets warn with the key. Sometimes attempting to make a new key with the original code will not work due to the wear.
Hardware stores here (home depot and lowe's) will not cut blanks not purchased from them and my local lock smith charged $20 per key to cut and programming was extra $200. Your machine probably need a calibration.
Sam is the Lock Picking Lawyer! 😮 Face reveal!
im a locksmith and I own that exact key cutter it works flawlessly. you just gotta know how to use it correctly. you gotta search the key blank name and place it correctly. I've had it for 3 years no problems.
I would think the cutting die is worn and needs replaced. But that was a informative video..thanks Sam
I like the new direction of the channel! How to make keys, making your Ferrari a manual, fixing the r8 frame (ok, this one is older), the Escalade project, etc. Not just cool cars, but a unique twist not seen anywhere else.
yup, +1 for the get new bit and check your zero calibration for that cutter. its wayyyy off.
there's a like, $15 calibration block of a piece of aluminum thats a specific size, and you run some mode in the tablet and it should in theory fix it. kukai-cblock-part the machine is the kukai sec-e9 (in theory).
with that and a new cutter, it should be squared away.
bonus points if you already have the block and didn't realize it.
I simply manually cut a key for my Ford with a file. I edged up on every cut until the key worked.
The trial and error process took awhile though but for one key wasn't too bad. More confidence in the method would make it faster but I didn't want to remove any more material than required to make it work.
I have an automated machine and they all need to be calibrated... specially after an end-mill change (which it looks like yours had had). You might quiz the manufacturer on how to do the calibration after a mill change.
Lost my second keyfob for an AUDI TT last week, here in brazil I got quote almost 1.5k for a replacement fob, ordered it from europe directly (from another dealer) for $500, still its a month+ wait. Great video.
That programmer is really tempting, I have 2 keys that need to be made and most of the other ones I've seen require a subscription.
Ypu forgot about an important part of the "set it and forget it", the setting it. It likely requires setting up, it could also be damaged, but I would say it is more likely either the wrong size cutter, or it needs to be calibrated.
Sam is the chicken farmer version of The Lock Picking Lawyer.
LPL already sent a cease and desist
So... A Cock Picking Lawyer?
@@tiborklein5349 Badumtiss
😉
You should look into this type of key cutter it more manual yet it works
ILCO FLASH 008 PORTABLE MANUAL KEY CUTTING MACHINE - DUPLICATE EDGE CUT KEY
Don't give up on the Chinese key cutter, it just needs to be calibrated. And maybe a new cutter bit.
The machine is out of origin as others stated. A work around for this is to run your blank twice but flip it over. On the very first key cut in the video, you can clearly see the centering of the cut is off.
I would think that the diameter of the endmill is set wrong in the machine or something.
I have a similar machine. Those are very reliable if you set them up properly. It seems the cuts are off. You need to calibrate the machine first. There are some settings somewhere in the menu. Find the manual and adjust the settings. And it'll work.
Absolutely love this type of video. Please do more. 👍
Dude your keycutter is not broken. It just needs to be calibrated. Also make sure there isn't an offset of some type turned on. I would just look up a manual for it.
I wonder if the key cutter has options for the diameter of the cutting bit, or a calibration. I looks like it simply is off a tick or so, like if the software thought it had a 4mm cutter in it and it actually had a 3mm cutter, it would cut too shallow, which it looked like it was doing.
Topdon is sweet. I got a scanner with your code and it worked a treat on my Camaro and my wife's Infiniti.
Sam, thank you so much for this. I am definetly going to invest in tools like these.
Great stuff. Anything that helps car owners save time and avoid huge costs has got to be good.
This was a great video Sam. Ive spent $1200 getting a key replaced for a 2016 LR4 after being told only the dealer could program the fob without a key. May have to look into this if it happens again. Hard to stomach that cost for what is obviously 20min worth of work.
unfortunetly an all keys lost on a Range Rover is eemprom. (gotta pull a module, solder onto it etc, Advanced Key makiing) if it was only an add key usually it can be done. but anthing newer tends to be eemprom only especially most luxary and euro vehicles.
not true ive programmed a key that had lost immobilizer chip so i had to reprogram the car to the key
This was actually a good video, it will help others understand the process for sure. You cutter needs to get calibrated for sure.
Please do more videos like this, very helpful. I had to pay $800 to have my Lexus key fobs made and it is highway robbery. Anything we can do to break the strangle hold the dealers have on us fixing cars, the better.
Find a local locksmith.
When I was a parts guy at Dodge Chrysler I could just look at the key and tell you the key code. You had 7 notches along the key and each notch could be 1-4 deep. We punched out the keys by hand though, no machines.
this is a very helpful video because its a nightmare to get cars from the auction with out a key and have problems to move the car outside the auction yard, i had f up tires on cars that the steering wheel its locked and you have to tow the vehicle or that you already have it on a tow bar and then you find out that the key its missing so it does help to know there is an alternative to this problem that doesent involve the steelership
Yeah with the machine I have, I just "decode" the key myself, each key "code" is just the depth of cut in each position, you can actually get an "analog" key decoder and just manually input the cut numbers yourself :) EDIT: well looks like you did do that near the end of the video lol.
Sam, did you get the calibrating key that comes with the cutting machine, They need to be calibrated regularly, You put the calibration key in and push calibrate. In the menu there is a setting to do all this.
i wonder if the lockpicking lawyer has a fancy machine like this? i bet he would love it as a xmas gift.
He doesn’t need keys
@@ko9446 One of his latest videos, he used the key to open the lock and made a video about it. What a douche.
He does have a key cutting machine, its been in a few of his vids, but I think its a traditional one where the cutter mechanically follows the key that's being copied.
@@TIMMEH19991 He does have a manual machine but it can use templates so he can cut by code. It's just cutting manually though, lpl can handle that with ease, lol
He sells them and I think makes them
Dude, I learn so much from you, you just can’t make a bad video.
If anyone can find a way to make things cheaper that is the Sam”s way.
Great video.
I cut my own Silverado laser key on my CNC mill. Scanned it on a flatbed scanner, and modeled it in CAD, programmed the g-code and cut a couple spare keys - worked the first try. Unfortunately I had to go to a dealership to have the fobs programmed.
Now I have to make one for my daughters Toyota key for my daughter's car...
Cool. Now finish other projects first. 😂
i mean this was a great video but sure
That towing of that red car was really satisfying, I once went to the mall on Black Friday and a lady driving a brand new Mini Cooper decided it was fine to cut me off and take my parking spot, mind you I was already signaling and waiting for the spot, this lady blew in and walked away. I had a present for her tho, I had a box of nails and screws from my job, and the rest is history lol.
I don't quite understand why you need this very expensive automatic key cutter, where I dupe my keys they use a manual tool that you just have to slide over your key while the new one gets cutted on the other end.
BTW, we don't really need the key code for your Rover, you just gave us high quality pictures of the keyblades of all of your cars, we can even 3D print them...
This tool is designed primarily for cutting from a decoded lock, not for duplicating. You can’t do that with normal key cutting machines.
@@Pugjamin 3D print a decoded keyblade and duplicate to a real one, for how much 3D printers cost now, you still save quite a buck.
The reason to use a code machine like this is to go back to factory cuts. Keys are brass and wear over time, when you use a manual duplicator you are starting the key with cuts that are already degraded from what they should be. This reduces the longevity of the key and also keeps the brand new key from working as well as it could in some cases.
@@joec3897 Hmm... yeah I could see that.
We have a local locksmith shop that only charges $5 to cut a key. I program them with my Launch x431 Diagun V. I love that little scanner it is my go to for so much stuff. I was only supposed to come with 2 years of updates and it told me that the updates expired, but it keeps on updating.
Home depot cut a ford focus key for me for free. Couldn't charge me because I didn't purchase the key blank from them.
Same for me, happened today. I felt bad and bought the guy some pop. 2 keys
@@bobanmilz6512 I have had them turn me down once, but it was because of the material the key blank was made of. Brass is okay.
@@Moonsauc3 Ace turned me down because I didn’t but the keys from them..
@@bobanmilz6512 so.. Ace isn't the place OR the helpful hardware store.
That was an awesome video and no sugarcoating the failed key cutter. Thanks Sam
I'm celebrating a $30k stock portfolio today. I started this journey with 4k. have invested on time and also with the right tearn now I have time for my family and the life ahead of me
And who is this Mrs Olivia Renae Marksover and how does she trade, please am interested in getting to know how it all works
@Christopher Ugonna all traders lose sometimes, to claim otherwise is naive.
Many years ago I had a key replication done on my father's BMW M5, was supposed to be only a dealership ability, it worked perfectly, meant I could borrow the M5 whenever I wanted to, damn that car was quick, Rj in Oz
Topdon programmer 👍
Chinese cutting machine 💩
18:00 SAMMY has been watching the LOCK PICKING LAWYER.
For the key cutting you're better off going to a key cutter with a pantograph(old fashioned) machine which will repeat the profile of your existing key. It's programing the fob which is the (usually) expensive part.
Apart from what's been mentioned by other replies I would add . use the right diameter cutter for specific applications. Also a sharp /new cutter would improve things a lot. Great and informative video Sam😊
Your key machine is basically a CNC milling machine. It looks like the keys are similar but not cut deep enough. With a mill, you have to tell the machine 1) where zero is for x and y. The machine looks like it goes and touches the tip of the key but it’s off to the side. I would think it should touch off on the center of the tip. 2) you tell a machine the diameter of the cutter.
Maybe the machine was crashed and is out of its original position.
Or
Maybe it has the wrong size cutter.
OR
See if maybe there is a way to re-home the machine.
Good luck!
Regardless if it's a good key making machine or not, I think it has amazing potential as a desktop CNC machine. I'd buy one if it had an open source API.
I really liked this vid !! Why do we have too get ripped off so blatantly when getting our cars repaired ! Thanks Sam . Keep up the good work !!!
*The dealership charging more for a key than you can get for a cheap standard second car from auction* 🤯
Really interesting, although the cutting machine wouldn't work for current cars it's still going to work for most padlocks and house keys, so all is not lost!
I recently had to program two new keys and fobs for a 2005 Mitsubishi Verada. I just followed the instructions and they were all programme a the same time by me from inside the car and without any special piece of equipment. But then it was a 2005 so maybe they were very basic and easy to program.
I️ loved this one. I️ recently have the same issue. One 1key and beeper for toyota sequoia 2006. I️ bought an uncut/deprogrammed key on ebay. Take the key to the hardware for cut, the guy there did cut my key but did not guarantee to work because they don’t do car keys. They did charged me and I️ was ok with that. The key didn’t work, however, I️ was able to nske it work by comparing the new key with the original and complete the cut using a lime. So Samrac, maybe you can do the same with the keys that didn’t work for you.
Keep doing these kind of videos; they are really helpful as well as entertainment.
You need to calibrate the machine, make sure you have the cutter size correct and that will solve your issues, also learn what key blades they are and cut and decide them that way
I have an 05 Durango Limited with the full security system and I broke the chip part of the only key I had. The dealer wanted it towed in to make a new key. A mobile locksmith used that same tool to read the code from the lock cylinder to double check my key was right, then used his key cutting machine in the van, and "lost all keys" to make a new one. Worked great, but cost $300... Still cheaper than getting a new Volvo key from the dealer lol.
That key machine looks like it needs to be calibrated. I have a similar Chinese automatic key machine I've used for years this one is a little bit more advanced than that. I really think that you need to check in the settings and recalibrate the machine. If it's not calibrated properly every key that it cuts will be off. Because these key machines are made to be carried around the vibration and movement of them can throw off the calibration way off to the point that they do not cut any keys properly. Normally the Leshi tool needs a decoder to decode the numbers you get originally from it to actually work. These programming tools are normally hit on me sometimes you get one that can do a few cars sometimes you get one that doesn't work at all. The more high end programming tools like Autel seem to work for most vehicle manufacturers. But these carry a pricey subscription service you have to pay yearly or monthly. The Chinese variant of these two tends to also be hit or miss and very expensive at the end of the day. All keys lost situation are more or less very technical and some manufacturers are easier than others for instance all keys lost on a Honda is easy . A Toyota and Mercedes-Benz much more harder to program an all keys last. You can message me if you need more info.
I bought a pair of blank keys for about $30, took them to Canadian Tire and they cut them for free, since these were my own keys. I programmed the keys myself using the only master key and putting the van into programming mode as per the handbook. Stealership wanted hundreds and hundred and hundreds of dollars for this.
In Australia most suburban shopping mall key cutting booths can do this, way less cost than a dealer, programmed remote fob, immobiliser chip, the lot. Only issue is if your car is really new, say first 3-5 years and/or from more expensive brands.
Very interesting, I liked this kind of video. If one of us DIY people could actually figure it out, it would drive down those expensive costs from dealerships.
Did you fully calibrate the machine first?
I think you need to mess with that correction factor so it mills the cuts deeper. You seemed to be on the right track.
check the cutter setting in the menu, it looks way off. once you have the right number, you can probably just re cut those keys again
Have you tried using a slightly larger cutting bit? Because it looks like it is not cutting deep enough, and so with a larger diameter bit, it should cut more material out. I would say that it is definitely worth a go.
Looks like its cutting correctly but the milling bit is the wrong diameter
You can also program keys with simple USB OBD2 readers, as long as you have the right program to interface with your vehicle. If you have a laptop and buy a decent OBD2 reader, you can do the whole process that you did with that more expensive and specialized machine for under $100, no problem.
Great stuff! I like these kinds of videos in your line up! You always do an excellent and comprehensive job with relaying usable information through these. Thanks!
They key programmers...glad you found one that works. Locksmiths either send you to the dealer, or charge more to program them.
Since you have the key decoder, does that key cutting machine have a manual input?
Might want to see if it still works as a cutter correctly to narrow down which side is going wrong.
Every Key cutting machine is based upon a specific code table, year make and model doesn't practically matter. The ford keys before the laser key integration were the X code table. as far as the GM key there is the Z code talble and the V code table, 8 cut vs 10 cut. What ever that machine is just simply needs a calibration, its not broken.