IKEA Detolf: www.ikea.com/us/en/p/detolf-glass-door-cabinet-black-brown-10119206/ LED Light Strip: amzn.to/3wymso8 1ft Aluminum V-Channel: amzn.to/3cPRTSV 3M mounting tape: amzn.to/2THB0D3 Silicone wire: amzn.to/3wFjQoA Heat Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/3wAVps3 USB Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3gwVmbi Hot Toys Iron Man Mark 85 Armor: www.sideshow.com/collectibles/marvel-iron-man-mark-lxxxv-hot-toys-904599 For even more Iron-Man collectibles, head over to Sideshow: www.sideshow.com/characters/iron-man Disclosure: This product was provided by the manufacturer for purposes of review.
Please do not use 30 AWG wire for this (like you have listed). In perfect conditions that's far too small. While assuming perfect conditions you'll get a 5-10% voltage drop due to resistance of the wire for the short length you're using based on the likely amperage of those LEDs. But since 30 AWG wire has small strands and not that many of them, when you invariably break a few when you strip the wire or move things around you're dealing with something that's even worse. 22 AWG is what is typically used with these types of lights in small to medium setups and it's not much bigger (the insulation is still thicker than the wire) and isn't grossly more expensive (on the amazon link you give, the price is half again as much for 2/3 as much wire). If you merely go to 24 AWG (which is ideal for a very small installation like this), the cost is only a couple dollars more than the 30 AWG for the same amount of wire.
Something I really love about Norm is his precision, he know exactly what he want to achieve and goes to extra lengths to get the desired effect. I am a bodger born of bodgers, the sort who is inclined to settle on "good enough", but in truth I am never really satisfied with the end result. So this year I am taking lessons from Norm and aiming to put in the extra effort to get it the way I really want. Thanks Norm!
The "V channel" is also called LED extrusion commercially. You can get it in many styles- quarter-round, half-round, flat, 45, etc. They have a bunch of varieties on amazon and there are a couple companies that only sell extrusion, and they will have more variety and longer lengths. The longest I've bought was 2 meters. You can also buy generic alumni channels and make your own diffusion and/or color using film/theater gels.
I bought that same led tape off Amazon and just pictures frames the whole inside of my display cabinet starting from top going down one side across bottom and up the opposite side and out the top which I hard wired to my original hockey puck light and it connected via 2 prong cable into a smart outlet that I can turn on and off from my phone. But my cabinet is made off wood to match my living room furniture so I could get away with that method of led tape. Great work!
Bless you for the link to the LED channels! I've been looking for something to put my strips in and could not, for the life of me, find a term that got the correct results on Amazon. I don't remember what I did put, but it sure wasn't coming up with these. Hahaha I kept finding the premade lightbars, not what I wanted. These will be perfect! Looks beautiful, man!
I've used the metal poles as wires. You can attach the + to one pole and the - to the other one either on the top or the bottom. Then you can scratch a bit of paint of the metal poles and you can solder your wires to the poles. It makes a clean look without any messy wires that you can see. You can also choose to not solder the wires but make a pin that can make contact with the poles, this way you can take out the glass plates.
I have the Billy units inspired by Tested and use it to display some of my collectables. We hired a Task Rabbit to install them and that was a good move as the basement floor has a small slope. I would never have been able to do it right. Now I should look at lights👍
I'm glad someone else is taking full advantage of the Billy modular set. I have my study room lined around 3 walls with Billy modular shelves and cabinets with the additional risers that you can add to the top for another additional shelf
Very good informative video to add lights to the display case. Must say that like the clear simple ways he make his how to videos and always have in mind the budget of them to try and make them affordable and attractive to all of us and our collections.
Idk if IKEA uses different names around the world, but the *Billy* set of floor to ceiling modular bookshelves/display cabinet sets here in Australia from IKEA make for seriously nice display walls or rooms
Dude this is awesome man I can't wait to do some of this lighting myself. And willing to but some black light to do the same for those figure that light up. Can't wait nice video brother
I have three of these (detolfs) on a Kallax base, looks badass stuffed with mastergrades and Ma. k kits. I went the "garish" route and used the RGB dioder lights.
Just a heads up; almost everything at Ikea, including the Detolf is sold out. Make sure to check stock before making a trip. Ordering online is also basically impossible.
@@Wsfletcher Interesting. I'm in Missouri, and every store that I have searched besides Memphis is out of stock on almost every product, including these. I'm sure it's shipping related, but I can't even make a 1-2 day drive to a store to get anything.
Over here on the east coast Ikea stock is pretty dicey too. Been stalking their stores for a couple months looking for one type of cabinet and it's just MIA. A really awesome floor lamp that works like Adam's work bench lights was completely sold out (unless I wanted it in white, there was plenty of white).
Looks good for illumination but when you were wiring up I was thinking of the overhead room lights you can get that use the structure of the fitting to carry power to the light fittings which gives a clean finish. So using say the left frame for positive and the right for negative, thus reducing the cabling to a minimal level.
For anyone who's not handy with this sort of stuff and wants something that will achieve the same result with less work and not much more cost than buying the parts yourself, there's a company called Luke Light (thelukelight.com) that makes lighting kits custom sized for detolfs with aluminum brackets and diffuser panels. I just did 4 of mine with them (1 kit lights all 4 shelves on one detolf) and it was completely worth the cost and saved alot of time over wiring up a custom lighting chain.
Having installed my first lights in my Detolf just a few weeks ago this video was really interesting - and funnily enough I fitted mine in an identical way with aluminum diffusers etc. The only mistake I made was choosing RGB LEDs. Soldering the four points so close together was so difficult. One of the most frustrating experiences of my life!
I have the Billy shelving unit and use them to display and store my collectables. It was after having seen them on Tested that I decided to buy them and hired a task Rabbit to install them. The basement floor has a slight slope and I would have had lots of trouble and frustration trying to get it right. Now for the lights👍
Is there footage of Norm’s Billy Bookcase Displays? I’d love to see how he has them set up, if there is link available! Thanks for this video. It’s perfect.
Seeing this a year after you posted it, but this is great. Thank you for a great tutorial and a cool history of Iron Man armor! I have been trying to figure out a new lighting solution for my cabinets. I've been using some LED "dot" lights with a remote but they're battery operated and I'd rather have something that's powered from an outlet.
Just in time as I'm about to light my cabinet, so thanks so much for this. It does remind me that I've never understood why Americans don't pronounce the 'L' in 'solder' 🤔🤔
the lights are awesome to to me the cables not being black covered and mounted straight against the pole so thanks for the idea im gonna take it and develop it myself in the style i like to display my warhammer stuff :)
That Detolf Cabinet has gaps around the door that dust can get in easily, but like they say, "Dust gets in everything". You could use adhesive foam weather strips, adhesive rubber door sweeps. You'll lose the 100% visibility but shouldn't be too bad. Never set anything on top of these cabinets! If the metal frame begins to bow from weight, the top wood will put pressure on the glass and you could have a VERY bad day! I've heard about these shattering. Keep an eye on any potential glass bowing, especially if it's years old, and don't exceed the recommended weight on the shelves. I guess, under each shelf you could run a thin chain secured to the left and right glass panes with suction cups, with no tension, but just to stop them from bowing out further.
I'll be working on this project soon. I plan on lighting 4 different cabinets. Do you know where I can get extra power adapters and dim switches so I can have each cabinet run independently without having to connect to each other? If I buy 1 roll of LED's, that will be more than enough, but I'll need 3 more switches and power adapters. Granted, if I do run connector plugs between the cabinets, I can plug them into each other and run them all off the same switch and plug.
Wouldn't it have been easier to wire the individual light bars in parallel instead of in series? It would make the soldering easier (only one end soldered for each strip), the wiring easier (one cabinet side only for the wires), and it would avoid voltage drop for the LEDs farthest from the power source.
These lights are wired in parallel, but he has sort of daisy chained them together....To be honest, while the finished project works well enough, the wiring is not as neat or hidden as it could be...
Another way to hide the wire better if you do not want to use heatshrink, is you can use a black sharpie marker and darken the red wire. Its a trick used in computer building when you have a colored wire you need to blend in.
great vid. this is pretty much how i want to do mine, except i want ti have them all detachable also?. , also i think il go with white wire. i know the standard clips are trash id have to look for something better
Oh wow, I was just looking into buying some of these style lights; definitely prefer making my own solutions when possible. Should I be concerned with differences in LED tones if ordered at separate times? I've heard that can be an issue.
I wanted to make something like this for ages! I'd like to add one must have feature for me though. A timer! I've got these led candles that run for 6 hours when turned on, then 24 hours later the cycle repeats. Set and forget! In this case I suppose a smart socket could also work.
I think he used Imperial dude, he ordered the V channels in 1 ft. The LED's came already measured in Metric, he just didn't manually convert, so viewers could easily find that product. You mad American Freemasons knew best? Imperial is next level bro(masonic puns intended). Would've been a lot cooler if he said caliber though, can't stand millie either, but hey, you say Lumens/Knots, I say Illuminati.
@@Mr-pm3jp I’m not American, and I’m not a freemason, but thanks for the insight into your funny world! 😁🤗 But hey, at least we are at one about the “mills” thing. ^^
I’m going nuts trying to put into words a cabinet I’m trying to build. Rather the lighting/sounds I’d like to add to it. I don’t know if I need an electrician for it because it’s more of your guys’ realm. I collect sideshow PCS 1:4 and 1:3 scale street fighter statues and I just don’t know who to turn to for help with lighting it and making sounds for it. In my head, I would build a joystick controller box… each click of the joystick, lights up a different characters section of the cabinet… it would also make the character sound.. then when u find the character u want, an arcade style button would then play like a 30 second sound clip of the persons stage music. I drew it out but it sounds more like a pipe dream or some over fantasized kids dream. Can I somehow show u a picture of it or something? Or maybe u can tel me what kind of specialist I would need for something like this? Thanks and love your guys’ stuff. 🙏 -Wes
I swear to christ, everyone this past year and a half has had the same project ideas. I'm in the middle of planning something very similar. Note: THAT WIRE GAUGE IS WAY TOO LOW. The plug and play options on amazon are fire hazards because they cheaped out on wire sizes. All the reviews of wire connectors, dimmers, etc are filled with people saying they run really hot and some even say they burn through the plastic. That's because the wire size is too low. I'm planning to use as many custom built parts as possible, including probably 16 AWG wire. Probably overkill, but I'm an EE and design buildings. When in doubt, always upsize the wire. 18 AWG is the absolute minimum anyone should buy if you're not doing the math to see what the load is of your projects.
Would you still recommend 18 AWG for LED strips that have 4 connections instead of just those 2 that he soldered? I'm planning on getting the tunable white strips and those have 4 points to solder.
It would be better to show those armors of iron man that your talking about instead the stagnant video of you and the action figure so the viewers can relate. At least a picture or something the viewers could relate. We are not as imaginative as you. Btw, i watched the video for the led strip, but got more content about ironman.
I guess the main takeaway of videos like this one is the _idea_ because sure enough the _execution_ looks like HotGarbage - I mean... Those figures cost like what? On average like 400.- ? You'd guess with that much money to spend on and this being _somewhat_ of a tech-oriented channel I'd imagine you considering the option of making custom 3D printed endcaps for those LED rails that would snap onto the framing of the IKEA Cabinet resulting in a _much_ more appealing result by removing some of those electrical cables. I'd also have used only one ( black ) color of wiring and mark the positive one somehow differently to help with the aesthetics where you cannot hide the wiring. Finally, I'd also argue that vertically mounted lights would have looked nicer ( would also have helped with the poorly addressed cable issue ) 😐
Wow a man collecting dolls! Has to light them up with expensive power sucking lights. We have people living in the streets an these rich people who have all this extra money whizzing it away on plastic junk! Not only that but sucking the power grid to light up the shit!
IKEA Detolf: www.ikea.com/us/en/p/detolf-glass-door-cabinet-black-brown-10119206/
LED Light Strip: amzn.to/3wymso8
1ft Aluminum V-Channel: amzn.to/3cPRTSV
3M mounting tape: amzn.to/2THB0D3
Silicone wire: amzn.to/3wFjQoA
Heat Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/3wAVps3
USB Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3gwVmbi
Hot Toys Iron Man Mark 85 Armor: www.sideshow.com/collectibles/marvel-iron-man-mark-lxxxv-hot-toys-904599
For even more Iron-Man collectibles, head over to Sideshow: www.sideshow.com/characters/iron-man
Disclosure: This product was provided by the manufacturer for purposes of review.
Hi Norm, hi Savage put LED lights on anything makes it cool
Please do not use 30 AWG wire for this (like you have listed). In perfect conditions that's far too small. While assuming perfect conditions you'll get a 5-10% voltage drop due to resistance of the wire for the short length you're using based on the likely amperage of those LEDs. But since 30 AWG wire has small strands and not that many of them, when you invariably break a few when you strip the wire or move things around you're dealing with something that's even worse. 22 AWG is what is typically used with these types of lights in small to medium setups and it's not much bigger (the insulation is still thicker than the wire) and isn't grossly more expensive (on the amazon link you give, the price is half again as much for 2/3 as much wire). If you merely go to 24 AWG (which is ideal for a very small installation like this), the cost is only a couple dollars more than the 30 AWG for the same amount of wire.
Something I really love about Norm is his precision, he know exactly what he want to achieve and goes to extra lengths to get the desired effect. I am a bodger born of bodgers, the sort who is inclined to settle on "good enough", but in truth I am never really satisfied with the end result. So this year I am taking lessons from Norm and aiming to put in the extra effort to get it the way I really want. Thanks Norm!
The "V channel" is also called LED extrusion commercially. You can get it in many styles- quarter-round, half-round, flat, 45, etc. They have a bunch of varieties on amazon and there are a couple companies that only sell extrusion, and they will have more variety and longer lengths. The longest I've bought was 2 meters. You can also buy generic alumni channels and make your own diffusion and/or color using film/theater gels.
Extra bonus points for the cool EPCOT shirt! 👌
You should do a complete office tour.
Excellent project. Time to LED some displays!
I bought that same led tape off Amazon and just pictures frames the whole inside of my display cabinet starting from top going down one side across bottom and up the opposite side and out the top which I hard wired to my original hockey puck light and it connected via 2 prong cable into a smart outlet that I can turn on and off from my phone. But my cabinet is made off wood to match my living room furniture so I could get away with that method of led tape. Great work!
This video is amazing and I was able to do them on 4 ikea shelves and people are wow by the beauty and brightness of the lights. Thanks for the video.
Bless you for the link to the LED channels!
I've been looking for something to put my strips in and could not, for the life of me, find a term that got the correct results on Amazon. I don't remember what I did put, but it sure wasn't coming up with these. Hahaha
I kept finding the premade lightbars, not what I wanted. These will be perfect!
Looks beautiful, man!
This was so fun. Loved the deepdive on the armor too
This is exactly what I need to watch this morning!! Thanks Norm 😄
Norm has come a long way since the early days of Tested, this was a fantastic build
I've used the metal poles as wires. You can attach the + to one pole and the - to the other one either on the top or the bottom. Then you can scratch a bit of paint of the metal poles and you can solder your wires to the poles. It makes a clean look without any messy wires that you can see. You can also choose to not solder the wires but make a pin that can make contact with the poles, this way you can take out the glass plates.
Mind sharing what kind of pin you've use for the contact point?
Perfect timing! I was just considering tackling this project!
I have the Billy units inspired by Tested and use it to display some of my collectables.
We hired a Task Rabbit to install them and that was a good move as the basement floor has a small slope. I would never have been able to do it right. Now I should look at lights👍
I'm glad someone else is taking full advantage of the Billy modular set.
I have my study room lined around 3 walls with Billy modular shelves and cabinets with the additional risers that you can add to the top for another additional shelf
Love the Spaceship Earth shirt Norm!
Very good informative video to add lights to the display case. Must say that like the clear simple ways he make his how to videos and always have in mind the budget of them to try and make them affordable and attractive to all of us and our collections.
Idk if IKEA uses different names around the world, but the *Billy* set of floor to ceiling modular bookshelves/display cabinet sets here in Australia from IKEA make for seriously nice display walls or rooms
Dude this is awesome man I can't wait to do some of this lighting myself. And willing to but some black light to do the same for those figure that light up. Can't wait nice video brother
I have three of these (detolfs) on a Kallax base, looks badass stuffed with mastergrades and Ma. k kits. I went the "garish" route and used the RGB dioder lights.
I do agree on Mark 85, it's my new favorite Ironman. I skipped on the clean version of Mark 85, instead I bought the Mark 85 battle damaged version.
Nice job. I did something similar with my Billy bookcase with glass shelves.
I love this I would love to dive even deeper into each individual armor well done looks great!
Just a heads up; almost everything at Ikea, including the Detolf is sold out. Make sure to check stock before making a trip. Ordering online is also basically impossible.
They have plenty in my area Northeast US?
@@Wsfletcher Interesting. I'm in Missouri, and every store that I have searched besides Memphis is out of stock on almost every product, including these. I'm sure it's shipping related, but I can't even make a 1-2 day drive to a store to get anything.
Over here on the east coast Ikea stock is pretty dicey too. Been stalking their stores for a couple months looking for one type of cabinet and it's just MIA.
A really awesome floor lamp that works like Adam's work bench lights was completely sold out (unless I wanted it in white, there was plenty of white).
The trick to ordering online is to submit at 12:01 AM, that's how you get the collection spots.
Seven months later you can easily order the Detolf online, but shipping costs almost as much as the unit does.
That updated MK85 head sculpt looks way better than the originally released one 😄. The Mk7 is my favorite. Love that figure-
Thank you for the armor overview.
Looks good for illumination but when you were wiring up I was thinking of the overhead room lights you can get that use the structure of the fitting to carry power to the light fittings which gives a clean finish. So using say the left frame for positive and the right for negative, thus reducing the cabling to a minimal level.
For anyone who's not handy with this sort of stuff and wants something that will achieve the same result with less work and not much more cost than buying the parts yourself, there's a company called Luke Light (thelukelight.com) that makes lighting kits custom sized for detolfs with aluminum brackets and diffuser panels. I just did 4 of mine with them (1 kit lights all 4 shelves on one detolf) and it was completely worth the cost and saved alot of time over wiring up a custom lighting chain.
This video motivated me to do the same!
Great review Norm.
Having installed my first lights in my Detolf just a few weeks ago this video was really interesting - and funnily enough I fitted mine in an identical way with aluminum diffusers etc. The only mistake I made was choosing RGB LEDs. Soldering the four points so close together was so difficult. One of the most frustrating experiences of my life!
I have the Billy shelving unit and use them to display and store my collectables. It was after having seen them on Tested that I decided to buy them and hired a task Rabbit to install them. The basement floor has a slight slope and I would have had lots of trouble and frustration trying to get it right.
Now for the lights👍
Is there footage of Norm’s Billy Bookcase Displays? I’d love to see how he has them set up, if there is link available!
Thanks for this video. It’s perfect.
Hy Shakes, check the Tested playlist, Adam did a feature on the Billy bookcases in his cave some time ago.
@@CRWhiteside Fantastic. Thank you!
Seeing this a year after you posted it, but this is great. Thank you for a great tutorial and a cool history of Iron Man armor! I have been trying to figure out a new lighting solution for my cabinets. I've been using some LED "dot" lights with a remote but they're battery operated and I'd rather have something that's powered from an outlet.
Thanks for this Norm - I love my shelves but have the same issues .. now I know how Im gonna deal with it!
Just in time as I'm about to light my cabinet, so thanks so much for this. It does remind me that I've never understood why Americans don't pronounce the 'L' in 'solder' 🤔🤔
We are taught that the L is silent so the CIA can tell where you were really raised ;)
That looks amazing! 👍
Great tips... Just hope it's as easy to do as you made it out to be 😁
OMG i just ordered lighting kits for my DETOLFs off Etsy last night
Cool deal. I'll have to try that some day. Might make an interesting 3D printer project.
really great job!!
For my Lego 10221 i did almost the same
Love these videos
the lights are awesome to to me the cables not being black covered and mounted straight against the pole so thanks for the idea im gonna take it and develop it myself in the style i like to display my warhammer stuff :)
nice collection, would like a tour of your displays, Thanks for the lighting tip
This is great ive been trying to work out how to keep dust off my figures
That Detolf Cabinet has gaps around the door that dust can get in easily, but like they say, "Dust gets in everything". You could use adhesive foam weather strips, adhesive rubber door sweeps. You'll lose the 100% visibility but shouldn't be too bad. Never set anything on top of these cabinets! If the metal frame begins to bow from weight, the top wood will put pressure on the glass and you could have a VERY bad day! I've heard about these shattering. Keep an eye on any potential glass bowing, especially if it's years old, and don't exceed the recommended weight on the shelves. I guess, under each shelf you could run a thin chain secured to the left and right glass panes with suction cups, with no tension, but just to stop them from bowing out further.
I'll be working on this project soon. I plan on lighting 4 different cabinets. Do you know where I can get extra power adapters and dim switches so I can have each cabinet run independently without having to connect to each other? If I buy 1 roll of LED's, that will be more than enough, but I'll need 3 more switches and power adapters. Granted, if I do run connector plugs between the cabinets, I can plug them into each other and run them all off the same switch and plug.
Wouldn't it have been easier to wire the individual light bars in parallel instead of in series? It would make the soldering easier (only one end soldered for each strip), the wiring easier (one cabinet side only for the wires), and it would avoid voltage drop for the LEDs farthest from the power source.
Can you explain this in slightly simpler terms? Just interested as I wired mine the same as he did in the video
@@carlturland like a ladder 🪜, but with only one side.
These lights are wired in parallel, but he has sort of daisy chained them together....To be honest, while the finished project works well enough, the wiring is not as neat or hidden as it could be...
Another way to hide the wire better if you do not want to use heatshrink, is you can use a black sharpie marker and darken the red wire. Its a trick used in computer building when you have a colored wire you need to blend in.
great vid. this is pretty much how i want to do mine, except i want ti have them all detachable also?. , also i think il go with white wire. i know the standard clips are trash id have to look for something better
I think you could shrink tube the whole length of the wiring for a better look
Oh wow, I was just looking into buying some of these style lights; definitely prefer making my own solutions when possible. Should I be concerned with differences in LED tones if ordered at separate times? I've heard that can be an issue.
I just ran the LED tape up the metal frame like you've done with the wiring. It's barely noticeable and a lot less work.
I wanted to make something like this for ages! I'd like to add one must have feature for me though. A timer! I've got these led candles that run for 6 hours when turned on, then 24 hours later the cycle repeats. Set and forget! In this case I suppose a smart socket could also work.
18:56 Peter Weller - The only one!
I love this
Those Detolfs are like potato chips, can’t just get one , lol collectors choice
Thank you for using metrics, and for NOT calling millimeters “mils!“ 😃👍
I think he used Imperial dude, he ordered the V channels in 1 ft. The LED's came already measured in Metric, he just didn't manually convert, so viewers could easily find that product. You mad American Freemasons knew best? Imperial is next level bro(masonic puns intended). Would've been a lot cooler if he said caliber though, can't stand millie either, but hey, you say Lumens/Knots, I say Illuminati.
@@Mr-pm3jp
I’m not American, and I’m not a freemason, but thanks for the insight into your funny world! 😁🤗
But hey, at least we are at one about the “mills” thing. ^^
Quick question! Would you recommend mounting your detolfs against the wall? For safety
Wonder what the 70 thumbs down votes are about he’s giving us a tip .Thanks Norm I appreciate it .
The 3A dead cosmonaut is great. I wish there was a way to permanently have its blue helmet light stay lighted.
Mark 85 is appropriate since it’s involved in a time travel initiative. 1985.
Damn! I’ve got the same IKEA glass cases, but mine don’t have a cut out on the top. Huh.
I've been doing this for years. Never understood why people always places LEDs in the raw.
Raw?
@@sc1338 I assume Gorilla means with no diffuser panel. Uncovered LEDs are just asking to be destroyed.
@@apollolux Destroyed by what? Dust/Moisture? There are LED strips that are encased in clear silicone... I'd feel more comfortable bending those too.
Probably couldn't find as nice of a diffuser as Norm made, and wanted them as bright as possible... or maybe they're from Las Vegas.
@@Mr-pm3jp Destroyed by physical impact, of course.
I’m going nuts trying to put into words a cabinet I’m trying to build. Rather the lighting/sounds I’d like to add to it. I don’t know if I need an electrician for it because it’s more of your guys’ realm. I collect sideshow PCS 1:4 and 1:3 scale street fighter statues and I just don’t know who to turn to for help with lighting it and making sounds for it. In my head, I would build a joystick controller box… each click of the joystick, lights up a different characters section of the cabinet… it would also make the character sound.. then when u find the character u want, an arcade style button would then play like a 30 second sound clip of the persons stage music. I drew it out but it sounds more like a pipe dream or some over fantasized kids dream. Can I somehow show u a picture of it or something? Or maybe u can tel me what kind of specialist I would need for something like this? Thanks and love your guys’ stuff. 🙏 -Wes
I swear to christ, everyone this past year and a half has had the same project ideas. I'm in the middle of planning something very similar. Note: THAT WIRE GAUGE IS WAY TOO LOW. The plug and play options on amazon are fire hazards because they cheaped out on wire sizes. All the reviews of wire connectors, dimmers, etc are filled with people saying they run really hot and some even say they burn through the plastic. That's because the wire size is too low. I'm planning to use as many custom built parts as possible, including probably 16 AWG wire. Probably overkill, but I'm an EE and design buildings. When in doubt, always upsize the wire. 18 AWG is the absolute minimum anyone should buy if you're not doing the math to see what the load is of your projects.
Good to know! Always listen to the EE!
Just ordered parts, including 18g wire, to do this project for my LEGO display. 🤞
Would you still recommend 18 AWG for LED strips that have 4 connections instead of just those 2 that he soldered? I'm planning on getting the tunable white strips and those have 4 points to solder.
how do you keep the camera from flickering when dimming the led?
Buy a professional grade 8k camera with a refresh rate so high you don’t notice the LED’s refresh rate *might* work.
You can find these Detolf LED lighting kits on Etsy. No measuring and soldering needed ;-)
Wait…… did you just say Iron Man is done at the end of End Game? 😲
IKEA….. for when you spend $1500 on one shelf worth of figures….. count that as 4 figs…… and have squat for money left! :D
19:30 i like to use 2 black wires
👍
It would be better to show those armors of iron man that your talking about instead the stagnant video of you and the action figure so the viewers can relate. At least a picture or something the viewers could relate. We are not as imaginative as you. Btw, i watched the video for the led strip, but got more content about ironman.
Inflation is a bitch. Detolfs are $110 now. Let’s Go Brandon.
The only thing I don't like about the Detolf is it let's in dust.
Adhesive weather strip, rubber or foam. Also adhesive door sweep, rubber or bristles.
Hiding the coomer figures.
Loose vertical wires. My ocd wouldn't be able to tolerate them. Was hoping for something flush. Wires completely hidden.
$60!!! I bought 2 Friday they are $99 now hahahaha
You barely even showed the shelf when it was done???
my favorit ist mk 6
Way to difficult for the average pleb
I guess the main takeaway of videos like this one is the _idea_ because sure enough the _execution_ looks like HotGarbage - I mean... Those figures cost like what? On average like 400.- ? You'd guess with that much money to spend on and this being _somewhat_ of a tech-oriented channel I'd imagine you considering the option of making custom 3D printed endcaps for those LED rails that would snap onto the framing of the IKEA Cabinet resulting in a _much_ more appealing result by removing some of those electrical cables. I'd also have used only one ( black ) color of wiring and mark the positive one somehow differently to help with the aesthetics where you cannot hide the wiring. Finally, I'd also argue that vertically mounted lights would have looked nicer ( would also have helped with the poorly addressed cable issue ) 😐
Where SUBTITLE ? :(
Such a shame they only do detolfs in white now. So stupid.
It's wood, paint it.
I don't get doll people.
I think your link is just PVC wire, not "silicone", bud.
There is no IKEA in my country
So this is useless here
mülllllllll
Should of mounted them vertically up the front corners aiming inward. All wires hidden, looks better.
Wow a man collecting dolls! Has to light them up with expensive power sucking lights. We have people living in the streets an these rich people who have all this extra money whizzing it away on plastic junk! Not only that but sucking the power grid to light up the shit!
Keep your eyes on your own paper. This slithery weirdo bernard miller over here mad, counting Norms $. So you hate freedom huh... Sickening.
BORING… SO LONG.
Entire rooms filled with wonderfully lit plastic garbage.
What adults have dolls.
Come on man, grow up.
Shhhh let people enjoy things.
I would say some one who can afford to pay some serious coin for them as a collectable
Someone who's actually grown up enough to not feel the need to judge others.
If you listed the things you purchase for enjoyment I'm sure we could find a way to criticize you also.