Adam's Billy Bookcase speedbuild: ua-cam.com/video/pFrmynChp9M/v-deo.html IKEA Billy Bookcase: www.ikea.com/us/en/p/billy-bookcase-black-brown-40263848/
those waves are the 60Hz hum of the power ... a small capacitor for each line to filter that out will work fine ... you also get it bad with florescent lights
btw the front camera is a 60hcamera thats why you see the hum ... still small 10PicoF capacitor for each line and it wont even see the hum as the capacitor levels out the spikes and the hum appears to vanish ... (you are actually changing it's resonant frequency so it waves at a different frequency)
@@62-66 the other option is make a fast pulse circuit and adjust the pulse to a point you dont see it ... that would generally use a trim pot ... a basic tunable resistor .. either way will work as resonance needs a matched set of Resistance and capacitance to work well ... change one you change its frequency and Yeah Im OLD school ... im part of the lost generation post hippie pre yuppie ... 62 to 66 .. we dont fit either palce but can handle both no problem
After twenty years if doing of it’s safe to say I’m not going to tire of watching Adam Savage build things and talk to a camera. Grateful for his generosity. Kudos to the editor on this one.
I posted a comment saying this, before stumbling upon this one. I'm glad it's not just me who thinks this. It makes me think of all those times when Adam is filming in his cave how many times I've checked to see what the video resolution in UA-cam is at because the quality looks poor. It lacks detail and I find sometimes I'm having to squint to see things clearly on my phone.
Blasting routing dust everywhere whilst there is a festool vacuum literally a few feet away on the floor is a very Adam Savage thing to do. 😂 Love watching you work, vicariously building through you!
The quality of the rear camera was so much better also. Looked brilliant. The LED lighting sure does add a wonderful impact. You might find that if you can get the LED’s into some sort of aluminium profile they will run slightly cooler and also last longer because of that. They also might light the items of the shelf’s better if they are pointed down 45 degrees. Instead of pointing straight towards the top of the rear part of the shelf’s.
I dunno about the 45° though. That might create very ugly hotspots and reflections. LED (strips) are notorious for that if you shine them directly onto objects. If you add a diffuser it might help. But even with a diffuser, I would not put them at 45°. Indirect lighting (aka reflecting on the top, back and sides, is always much much better for stuff like this.
Purpose-built aluminum channels for LED strips also accommodate diffusers, which could help more of the light go directly to the stuff on the shelves instead of the back panel.
@@CookieTube Yes, indirect lighting is better, but the black cabinet isn't gonna reflect a whole lot of light. I agree with @wavedash- that a 45° aliminium channel with a diffuser would be the best option. Downside to that is that it would probably require Adam to build new strips of wood to accomodate the thickness of the profile.
I think this is only the second time I've seen the paint shaker. There was a video about it some time ago because the vibrations broke the first one and Adam rebuilt it.
Yes, he did a video on that one. There are a few other diy versions out there. I tried his method with minimal success but I didn't really try much yet, just two tries. A recip saw attachment I've seen seems like a good way to go.
Looks great! One small suggestion: A darker matte colour on the back wall of the shelving units would make the objects pop on the foreground. Billys have a slightly gloss finish and the predominant visual right now of the whole thing is the near-whitish gradient of the reflection off of each shelf's back wall. Lining the back of the units with something light-scattering and non-reflective (e.g. black felt) would really make that collection sing. Sure you have something appropriate lying around, Adam. ;)
Moments where the front camera captures at 59.9 fps, but the lights are running at 30htz (or some just off harmonic). Glad to see the rear camera resolved it.
This is brilliant Adam. I've been putting off lighting my Lego cases because I didn't want the hassle of a separate strip for each shelf. I love this solution! I always learn the best tricks from you.
Adam, don’t take this the wrong way, but I truly am appreciative that your shop looks like a working shop and not a set for a show. Always amazing content. Thank you.
My brother died from cancer a few years back, he was an aircraft engineer for 30 years, but also a huge fan of Myth Busters and more recently/relevantly, a fan of Jamie and the Tested UA-cam channel. He installed Warp and Hyper Drive switches on the dash of 747 jet liners and signed off on the maintenance for a pile of bush planes as O. Kenobi. He had a terrific sense of humour. In the hospital, he insisted on having me bring his TV and several hard drives and then hook them up. On these drives he had every episode of Monty Python, Faulty Towers, Space 1999 and Red Dwarf. Myself and his doctor think these TV shows as well as episodes of Tested help him kept his sense of humour in tact during what was a terrible time for all of us. Having the job of clearing out his 'stuff' was difficult and I tried to keep everything that would remind me of him and things that made him who he was. Some of those 'things' bring me to writing this email. I would like to ask if I could donate a shoe box of 'stuff' that would fit into the ethos of the Tested work shop and what the staff and Jamie might appreciate. These include some Space1999 promotional figures and an R2D2 that he and my dad built together in the late 70's or early 80's. If you would like to have this stuff it would save me trying to get rid of it and I'm sure it would have made Steven very happy that's some of the trinkets (I assure you, not just a box of junk) he collected, ended up in the Tested shop. I will pay the postage (I will need the mailing address) and in return only ask if Jamie and the staff could thank my brother posthumously. Thanks in advance, David Radcliffe...for Steve Radcliffe, AME 1963-2018
With the lip that hangs down, I would have recommended cutting at an angle so the light is tilted down onto the items on the shelves, rather than just straight back. I have a keyhole assembly type shelving unit for my photography gear. It is the type with a metal frame, and the horizontal pieces have an 7-shaped notch in them that pokes inward, to create a ledge on all four sides for a panel of wood to rest on. That is angled like a number 7, where the shelf sits on top, the angled bit continues down and back to be perfectly vertical. If you run an LED strip along that angled surface on the front of the shelving unit, the light from the LEDs shines back into the unit and angles down onto the contents of the shelf. It wasn't intended for that purpose but it works great for it!
Hello Adam, I'm Alex! Im 44. I've watched you ever since your show first premiered! I've always appreciated how enthusiastic and tenacious you are! All while radiating positive feel good vibes in multi spectrum! Even when I'm bummed, you have this amazing ability to help me distract myself from my woes! Your spoken thoughts about being kind and supportive, allowing others their unadulterated moments of glory and staying positive. You help me keep myself going! Thank you!
I love watching Adam, not only do I learn about making but every video I learn a new word like Contiguous from this one. Never heard that word before and now it’s forever in my vocabulary. Thanks Adam!
Hi Adam, the rolling shutter effect is caused by the PWM control of the LEDs. It turns them on and off rapidly to control the brightness. You may want to look into a different power supply or led driver or you can try to adjust your shutter speed of the camera.
Different power supply wouldn't help. Different led driver might (one which controls the LEDs via amps, and not via PWM), but those are very hard to find. And if found, will be expensive. Also, common led strips like that usually always work with PWM anyways. Much 'cheaper' would be to find a LED strip with led drivers which work at +60Hz, like the ones used for theater and film lighting.
@@adventurepromo And more specifically, record at 1/30s for a 60hz system (US), or 1/25 for 50hz. And the same settings will also help recording TV screens.
growing up as a kid watching MythBusters was a fascination that i had being a little tinkerer, and now that I continue to watch the things you put here on youtube, it always seems to spark my interests to make more things! so thank you!
Another idea for some people is to just use outside 1 inch corner molding from the hardware store, the kind of wood trim that goes on an outside corner. Put the lights on the inside face, either pointing down or pointing towards the back wall. Glue / screw / tape to the underside of the shelf and done. Stuff is cheap cheap and you can cut to length with a small saw. Also comes primed for painting to match whatever cabinet you're putting it in.
BTW A mullion is vertical and a munition is horizontal. An easy way to remember is a small "l" is a vertical line and a small "t" has a horizontal line crossing it"
Great work!! Another note, the rolling shutter it is a mismatch on the frecuency of the camera and the led lights. That's why the other camera doesn't have that effect. It is like trying to film a TV tube. Keep up the great work!!!!
I did the same thing by dropping like $20 at Ikea for some strips and taking ten minutes to screw them onto my case. Shows off my record collection nicely.
Just to note the correct terminology, it's LED flickering that's causing the lighting effect at the end. Rolling shutter is a different phenomenon that one sees when a subject is moving quickly across the frame or a camera is panned more quickly than the sensor can read out.
I love this stuff, as a maker I always want to jump to the end of the video to see what the build is actually going to work/fit like so I will understand the cuts and how it will go together. Like a dry erase board cross section of what will be the desired end result. I also back my LEDs onto a strip of metal if working with wood. And why haven't I clicked subscribe yet!! Done.
@@Warshipmodelsunderway The fact that his bench has the RIGHT size holes *in the holes for the stops* for a holdfast is genius on the part of the bench designer.
Great work Adam. Good lighting makes such a big difference. I just made a hanging light over one of my model railway layouts from an offcut of plywood and LED strips. As they were 12v LED's I wired them into an old crappy 12v train controller as a dimmer control. Using 100% bits I had spare was the best result. 👍 Happy modelling Mon
Great video! Just a friendly tip, Adam: You might consider using your rear facing camera regularly, as opposed to the front facing one. On a 4k TV there's a HUGE difference in picture quality!
Looking awesome! I just got rid of the billy's in my kitchen and replaced them with an IVAR system I customised online. Once assembled, I painted them TARDIS blue! Just some brandless wood paint just has the exact colour as Doctor Who's police box in the episodes since 2005!
For years i watched Mythbusters and i tought that was my dream job.. and a tought that always came to my mind was that i should send them a letter asking for a job.. no matter how simple it was.. and for free... i didn't need to get paid for this.. Today i see the inside of Adam home (i think it's his home), and i identify with his antics (in a good way.. i'm sorry if i'm using this word wrong, i'm not a native english speaker) like never before.. i could see myself looking at the camera and make those same faces.. and trying to make the room look good.. i don't know.. but it was great! I hope that in another universe there's a version of myself that met Adam (and who knows have worked for him)..
I gotta be honest, I think if I was working in Adam's workspace, the lack of space and amount of "stuff" would just drive me insane. What killed me was "Lets pull out the table saw." where Adam has to clear off the saw and then moves the stuff onto the mill because there is no where to put it.
In our livingroom, we have a 80/40/80/40/80 setup of black Billies. That’s in cm :) The 80’s have doors with glass in the top half, the 40’s don’t. I have cut strips of L-shaped black plastic profile and put them at the front of the shelves. The LED strips are on the inside of the profile, facing backwards. I drilled holes in the sides of the Billies (8mm or 1 cm, I forgot) for the strips to go through. The Billies are screwed together anyway. I have not used a diffuser. Because of the power consumption, I have used 2 separate strips: one for two shelves and one for three. The strips are standard ones with a remote to control the lights. And are turned on and off with a separate power remote.
I love elegant and simple solutions like this. I really wish I had not only the know-how (which honestly this isn't that complex to figure out), but the means to do things like this with my own cabinets and stuff. That way like my cabinets and stuff have better lighting.
that looks great. Have been wanting to do something to light up my bookshelves myself. I'm also pondering on how to do it combined with a double walled back with some sort of air channels behind it with small slitts at the top of each shelf that with a few silent computer fans with dust filters on them to create a positive air preasure in the shelves that keep dust from setteling on everything. Speaking of dust, you need to hook up your table saw with your dust collector. Those strips you used look like they are painted MDF. The glue in MDF, when worked on, is not very good to breathe in, and the very small dust particles are not very healthy either.
I totally thought that that was Adam whistling, and I thought, "How did they find the song that he was whistling?" - and then I realized that the whistling was part of the music 😂
Rolling shutter effect is because of PWM controlling the LED brightness. Definitely not a huge issue, it can be fixed by changing the settings or a different controller.
Hi Adam, that effect with the lights can be stopped by running the frame right of your camera at either 24/60 FPS. Or any other frame rate that comes under NTSC you can google NTSC frame rates. Hope this helps
Adam Savage style, overengineerd! Love it, I would probably used the strips with a simple light difuser to blend the hot spots of the lightstrip. But I love the way you think, wish I could be so inventive :)
Murphies Law - If you need 10 pieces of wood and buy 10 you will ultimately need 12 however if you need 10 and buy 12 you’ll only ever need the 10 and will forever have the extra 2 hanging around your shop waiting for the right project to use them which will likely never come.
Another source for LED lighting ideas is to take a close look at cosmetic store fixtures. Big box retailers and Ulta particularly. There is an LED strip under each tray or shelf. The strips are held by either a channel they slide into (which also is part of the diffusion) or clip to metal brackets that make contact with a powered backwall system. Source: I lead teams that install these at big box retailers.
Looks awesome! I'm a live theater lighting electrician in a regional production house and we're constantly doing installs like this on set pieces and props. Love the solution of adding a full piece of wood to the front so you can just use one LED tape strip instead of having to solder a bunch of connection points! I'm curious about the type of LEDs and driver you're using that allows you to connect them concurrently? All of the tapes I've come across have a max run length, which is dependent on voltage and the density of the LEDs on the tape. Or did you do multiple runs back to the power supply that you just didn't highlight in the video? The rolling gate can often be fixed with an LED driver that lets you change the Hz that the LEDs are flickering at, as well. These can get to be a bit expensive, but might be something to look into~ Thirdly, a small critique and/or suggestion: all LED tapes have a Beam Angle, which is the width of the light emitting from the source. When your tape is mounted so that it's pointing straight back at the back of the shelf like you have it, almost half of the light emitted is being projected up into the shelf above it. This has the added problem of the light intensity dropping off down towards the lower shelf (where the things you're actually trying to light are) and leaving a 'hot spot' at the top section. This is particularly obvious on the taller shelf section in your video, second from the top. To fix this, you can either construct an angled piece of wood that points the tape down towards the items you're displaying, or purchase some angled aluminum channeling that's specifically made to mount LED tape (this has the added benefit of a diffusion lense that evens out the light quality from such small light sources). You're a smart dude, so I hope you know what I mean by 'consider your geometry' when choosing what angle of channeling or wood to use to best compliment the Beam Angle of your LED tape compared to the items you want to light. Long time fan! Always puts a smile on my face to see someone so clearly fascinated by so many broad subjects, and just as interested as I am in getting your hands dirty in the name of sussing things out how things work, while also being so delighted by the artistry and craft it requires. Hope your new space is treating you well, and look forward to seeing the videos you film in it!
Live in China and recently ordered book shelf for new apartment. It is literally how most cardboard companies here make led. In my case I have light simultaneously to upper layer and bottom layer because strips are behind every shelf
LEDs tend to adjust brightness/temperature by using pulse width modulation. Basically the lights are turned on and off at a fixed voltage very rapidly, creating an effectively lower voltage which can be controlled precisely by changing the ratios of time on and time off per cycle known as the “duty cycle”. The reason changing brightness doesn’t matter is because it doesn’t actually change the frequency, just the duty cycle. If the pulse frequency is close to being a harmonic of the frame rate of your camera it can show up in artifacts (especially at shorter exposure settings and on sensors that capture one line at a time instead of a full frame). However this little dance is mainly done to save on power consumption; you can achieve the same thing with a linear power supply circuit (simplest would be a variable resistor) to control the voltages at every color channel of the LED strip and you’d avoid any flicker. Depending on the type of LED strip this might not always be feasible as many have dimming circuitry right in the strip. There are probably better ways to avoid the problem though. I’ve had a lot of LED lights and never had this problem but maybe I just don’t have a camera with the right combination of properties to notice it. It’s possible that what you’re seeing isn’t actually the pulse with modulation controlling the LEDs, but some interference of the PWM with some ripple from the power supply. You can try different power supplies on a small strip to test this theory.
Another comment: If you want to film yourself with the rear camera but still be able to see what you’re filming on the screen, I suggest rigging a small mirror to the phone to reflect the image so you can see it. (Maybe I just want to see Adam tinker with this 😉)
If I were working on this, I would have put an aluminum profile in, mostly for heat dissipation which would extend the life of the LEDs, and then I would have angled them slightly down so that the LEDs aren't shooting directly forwards to the back of the shelves but more so on the items on the shelves. Then I would have done some tests to see whether some diffusion would help or not (which can be added directly to the profile if they are deemed helpful)
I'm not a fan of the lit-up spots where the strip passes a vertical part, maybe seal those spaces in? Also, there's one single LED up at the top left facing out.
"It was a dark and stormy night; the rain fell in torrents-except at occasional intervals, when it was checked by a violent gust of wind which swept up the streets (for it is in London that our scene lies), rattling along the housetops, and fiercely agitating the scanty flame of the lamps that struggled against the darkness."
I’d use some appropriately sized galvanised steel angle to reinforce the shelves then put the Timber facade over it, there’s still the mounting space for the leds too.
Adam's Billy Bookcase speedbuild: ua-cam.com/video/pFrmynChp9M/v-deo.html
IKEA Billy Bookcase: www.ikea.com/us/en/p/billy-bookcase-black-brown-40263848/
those waves are the 60Hz hum of the power ... a small capacitor for each line to filter that out will work fine ... you also get it bad with florescent lights
btw the front camera is a 60hcamera thats why you see the hum ... still small 10PicoF capacitor for each line and it wont even see the hum as the capacitor levels out the spikes and the hum appears to vanish ... (you are actually changing it's resonant frequency so it waves at a different frequency)
@@62-66 the other option is make a fast pulse circuit and adjust the pulse to a point you dont see it ... that would generally use a trim pot ... a basic tunable resistor .. either way will work as resonance needs a matched set of Resistance and capacitance to work well ... change one you change its frequency
and Yeah Im OLD school ... im part of the lost generation post hippie pre yuppie ... 62 to 66 .. we dont fit either palce but can handle both no problem
@@kaboom-zf2bl The old school is what are need, you the ones who provide experience. It is very important
@@62-66 lol now just to get my head around cad software ... my day we did it by hand LOL
After twenty years if doing of it’s safe to say I’m not going to tire of watching Adam Savage build things and talk to a camera. Grateful for his generosity.
Kudos to the editor on this one.
An Adam Savage garage sale would be an international event
How so?
Hah. He would not be able to let go of anything. Leaving nothing for sale.
I pretty much assume that the cave will turn into a museum when Adam is gone.
@@hellomyfriend7932I agree I imagine there will tours of 10 people and there will be exhibitions
It would be a Southerbys auction
Whoever did the audio over the timelapse segments is a hero. Great work.
Rear facing camera has the added benefit of looking 10000000 times better as well
Yes! Please, Adam and team, please make him keep to this!
I posted a comment saying this, before stumbling upon this one. I'm glad it's not just me who thinks this. It makes me think of all those times when Adam is filming in his cave how many times I've checked to see what the video resolution in UA-cam is at because the quality looks poor. It lacks detail and I find sometimes I'm having to squint to see things clearly on my phone.
Blasting routing dust everywhere whilst there is a festool vacuum literally a few feet away on the floor is a very Adam Savage thing to do. 😂 Love watching you work, vicariously building through you!
I love his videos, but I fear for the day when we realize we just watched his slow descent into lung cancer.
There’s no questioning Adams’s brilliance, but he makes me feel good about my own woodworking techniques.
The quality of the rear camera was so much better also. Looked brilliant.
The LED lighting sure does add a wonderful impact.
You might find that if you can get the LED’s into some sort of aluminium profile they will run slightly cooler and also last longer because of that.
They also might light the items of the shelf’s better if they are pointed down 45 degrees. Instead of pointing straight towards the top of the rear part of the shelf’s.
I dunno about the 45° though. That might create very ugly hotspots and reflections. LED (strips) are notorious for that if you shine them directly onto objects. If you add a diffuser it might help. But even with a diffuser, I would not put them at 45°. Indirect lighting (aka reflecting on the top, back and sides, is always much much better for stuff like this.
Purpose-built aluminum channels for LED strips also accommodate diffusers, which could help more of the light go directly to the stuff on the shelves instead of the back panel.
@@CookieTube Yes, indirect lighting is better, but the black cabinet isn't gonna reflect a whole lot of light. I agree with @wavedash- that a 45° aliminium channel with a diffuser would be the best option. Downside to that is that it would probably require Adam to build new strips of wood to accomodate the thickness of the profile.
Yeah I totally would've cut a 30 degree chamfer
13:30
The fact that Adam has a custom drill attachment specifically for shaking cans of spraypaint is amazing to me.
I think this is only the second time I've seen the paint shaker. There was a video about it some time ago because the vibrations broke the first one and Adam rebuilt it.
Well, that explains why I’ve never had good results with rattle cans. Gotta get me one of those.
I was wondering if it had been featured before!
Yes, he did a video on that one. There are a few other diy versions out there. I tried his method with minimal success but I didn't really try much yet, just two tries. A recip saw attachment I've seen seems like a good way to go.
The editing of Adam’s whistling into the song was absolutely sublime.
Whoever picked the classical/whistling music for the timelapse, kudos, that was awesome! The sound engineering of tested’s videos is always top notch.
Looks great! One small suggestion: A darker matte colour on the back wall of the shelving units would make the objects pop on the foreground. Billys have a slightly gloss finish and the predominant visual right now of the whole thing is the near-whitish gradient of the reflection off of each shelf's back wall. Lining the back of the units with something light-scattering and non-reflective (e.g. black felt) would really make that collection sing. Sure you have something appropriate lying around, Adam. ;)
It probably looks much better in person then? Good idea though, maybe black 4.0 would be the best solution :P
Moments where the front camera captures at 59.9 fps, but the lights are running at 30htz (or some just off harmonic). Glad to see the rear camera resolved it.
Oh the issues left over from Never The Same Color...
This is brilliant Adam. I've been putting off lighting my Lego cases because I didn't want the hassle of a separate strip for each shelf. I love this solution! I always learn the best tricks from you.
As a woodworker, it always fascinates me to see how non woodworker makers handle woodworking tasks.
What's your verdict in this case?
@Tommy_007 there's nothing wrong with the way he did it, it's just not the way I would have done it.
Adam, don’t take this the wrong way, but I truly am appreciative that your shop looks like a working shop and not a set for a show. Always amazing content. Thank you.
My brother died from cancer a few years back, he was an aircraft engineer for 30 years, but also a huge fan of Myth Busters and more recently/relevantly, a fan of Jamie and the Tested UA-cam channel. He installed Warp and Hyper Drive switches on the dash of 747 jet liners and signed off on the maintenance for a pile of bush planes as O. Kenobi. He had a terrific sense of humour.
In the hospital, he insisted on having me bring his TV and several hard drives and then hook them up. On these drives he had every episode of Monty Python, Faulty Towers, Space 1999 and Red Dwarf. Myself and his doctor think these TV shows as well as episodes of Tested help him kept his sense of humour in tact during what was a terrible time for all of us. Having the job of clearing out his 'stuff' was difficult and I tried to keep everything that would remind me of him and things that made him who he was.
Some of those 'things' bring me to writing this email. I would like to ask if I could donate a shoe box of 'stuff' that would fit into the ethos of the Tested work shop and what the staff and Jamie might appreciate. These include some Space1999 promotional figures and an R2D2 that he and my dad built together in the late 70's or early 80's. If you would like to have this stuff it would save me trying to get rid of it and I'm sure it would have made Steven very happy that's some of the trinkets (I assure you, not just a box of junk) he collected, ended up in the Tested shop. I will pay the postage (I will need the mailing address) and in return only ask if Jamie and the staff could thank my brother posthumously.
Thanks in advance,
David Radcliffe...for Steve Radcliffe, AME 1963-2018
With the lip that hangs down, I would have recommended cutting at an angle so the light is tilted down onto the items on the shelves, rather than just straight back. I have a keyhole assembly type shelving unit for my photography gear. It is the type with a metal frame, and the horizontal pieces have an 7-shaped notch in them that pokes inward, to create a ledge on all four sides for a panel of wood to rest on. That is angled like a number 7, where the shelf sits on top, the angled bit continues down and back to be perfectly vertical. If you run an LED strip along that angled surface on the front of the shelving unit, the light from the LEDs shines back into the unit and angles down onto the contents of the shelf. It wasn't intended for that purpose but it works great for it!
Adam listening to you build while I build is so therapeutic and helps me focus while I build.
Hello Adam, I'm Alex! Im 44. I've watched you ever since your show first premiered! I've always appreciated how enthusiastic and tenacious you are! All while radiating positive feel good vibes in multi spectrum! Even when I'm bummed, you have this amazing ability to help me distract myself from my woes! Your spoken thoughts about being kind and supportive, allowing others their unadulterated moments of glory and staying positive. You help me keep myself going! Thank you!
I love watching Adam, not only do I learn about making but every video I learn a new word like Contiguous from this one. Never heard that word before and now it’s forever in my vocabulary. Thanks Adam!
Hi Adam, the rolling shutter effect is caused by the PWM control of the LEDs. It turns them on and off rapidly to control the brightness. You may want to look into a different power supply or led driver or you can try to adjust your shutter speed of the camera.
Different power supply wouldn't help. Different led driver might (one which controls the LEDs via amps, and not via PWM), but those are very hard to find. And if found, will be expensive. Also, common led strips like that usually always work with PWM anyways.
Much 'cheaper' would be to find a LED strip with led drivers which work at +60Hz, like the ones used for theater and film lighting.
Adjusting the shutter speed will solve this problem.
@@adventurepromo And more specifically, record at 1/30s for a 60hz system (US), or 1/25 for 50hz. And the same settings will also help recording TV screens.
@@CookieTubelovely, I was hoping to find this info in the comments. Thank you!
growing up as a kid watching MythBusters was a fascination that i had being a little tinkerer, and now that I continue to watch the things you put here on youtube, it always seems to spark my interests to make more things! so thank you!
Decluttering of the Tested office is coming along brilliantly 😊
'It won't be this dark forever.' Unintentional quotes to live by.
The little interlude with the strings and whistleing was a fun touch. Quite enjoyable.
I've been watching Adam for waaaaaay to long. I look at the project and say "Wait you need to ..." and 3 seconds later Adam does it. 😊
"I'm sorry it's so dark, it won't be dark forever." I really needed to hear that today, thanks Adam :)
Another idea for some people is to just use outside 1 inch corner molding from the hardware store, the kind of wood trim that goes on an outside corner. Put the lights on the inside face, either pointing down or pointing towards the back wall. Glue / screw / tape to the underside of the shelf and done. Stuff is cheap cheap and you can cut to length with a small saw. Also comes primed for painting to match whatever cabinet you're putting it in.
Adam's physical transition from lockdown apocalypse gunsmith Doc Brown to post-covid James Gunn is a fun aside to the channel's main arc.
BTW A mullion is vertical and a munition is horizontal. An easy way to remember is a small "l" is a vertical line and a small "t" has a horizontal line crossing it"
Great work!! Another note, the rolling shutter it is a mismatch on the frecuency of the camera and the led lights. That's why the other camera doesn't have that effect. It is like trying to film a TV tube.
Keep up the great work!!!!
Always nice to see someone wearing actual PPE when painting on UA-cam
I did the same thing by dropping like $20 at Ikea for some strips and taking ten minutes to screw them onto my case. Shows off my record collection nicely.
Just to note the correct terminology, it's LED flickering that's causing the lighting effect at the end. Rolling shutter is a different phenomenon that one sees when a subject is moving quickly across the frame or a camera is panned more quickly than the sensor can read out.
I love this stuff, as a maker I always want to jump to the end of the video to see what the build is actually going to work/fit like so I will understand the cuts and how it will go together. Like a dry erase board cross section of what will be the desired end result. I also back my LEDs onto a strip of metal if working with wood. And why haven't I clicked subscribe yet!! Done.
That vice-arm deal that goes into holes in the bench is genius!
I was infatuated with that the entire time
Those are called holdfasts, and they have been used on workbenches for thousands of years. They are invaluable in woodworking.
@@Warshipmodelsunderway The fact that his bench has the RIGHT size holes *in the holes for the stops* for a holdfast is genius on the part of the bench designer.
Great work Adam.
Good lighting makes such a big difference.
I just made a hanging light over one of my model railway layouts from an offcut of plywood and LED strips. As they were 12v LED's I wired them into an old crappy 12v train controller as a dimmer control.
Using 100% bits I had spare was the best result. 👍
Happy modelling
Mon
Great video! Just a friendly tip, Adam: You might consider using your rear facing camera regularly, as opposed to the front facing one. On a 4k TV there's a HUGE difference in picture quality!
You are welcome to walk me through every step of the process, sir.
Looking awesome! I just got rid of the billy's in my kitchen and replaced them with an IVAR system I customised online. Once assembled, I painted them TARDIS blue! Just some brandless wood paint just has the exact colour as Doctor Who's police box in the episodes since 2005!
It's cool how the frame rate of the camera shows the oscillation of the drill.
The lights made a big difference looks great. I like your paint shaker . Thanks Adam
"That should. Yes." Should be the Savage family motto
I need that bench in my life. Those benchdog holes with the plugs are amazing.
Just discovered that the closed captions labels many of the machine sounds as [Music] and I think that's fantastic
For years i watched Mythbusters and i tought that was my dream job.. and a tought that always came to my mind was that i should send them a letter asking for a job.. no matter how simple it was.. and for free... i didn't need to get paid for this..
Today i see the inside of Adam home (i think it's his home), and i identify with his antics (in a good way.. i'm sorry if i'm using this word wrong, i'm not a native english speaker) like never before.. i could see myself looking at the camera and make those same faces.. and trying to make the room look good.. i don't know.. but it was great!
I hope that in another universe there's a version of myself that met Adam (and who knows have worked for him)..
I gotta be honest, I think if I was working in Adam's workspace, the lack of space and amount of "stuff" would just drive me insane. What killed me was "Lets pull out the table saw." where Adam has to clear off the saw and then moves the stuff onto the mill because there is no where to put it.
Whoever did the editing on this one: excellent work. The classical music with Adam's whistling was 🤌
In our livingroom, we have a 80/40/80/40/80 setup of black Billies. That’s in cm :) The 80’s have doors with glass in the top half, the 40’s don’t.
I have cut strips of L-shaped black plastic profile and put them at the front of the shelves. The LED strips are on the inside of the profile, facing backwards. I drilled holes in the sides of the Billies (8mm or 1 cm, I forgot) for the strips to go through. The Billies are screwed together anyway. I have not used a diffuser.
Because of the power consumption, I have used 2 separate strips: one for two shelves and one for three.
The strips are standard ones with a remote to control the lights. And are turned on and off with a separate power remote.
I love elegant and simple solutions like this. I really wish I had not only the know-how (which honestly this isn't that complex to figure out), but the means to do things like this with my own cabinets and stuff. That way like my cabinets and stuff have better lighting.
that looks great. Have been wanting to do something to light up my bookshelves myself. I'm also pondering on how to do it combined with a double walled back with some sort of air channels behind it with small slitts at the top of each shelf that with a few silent computer fans with dust filters on them to create a positive air preasure in the shelves that keep dust from setteling on everything.
Speaking of dust, you need to hook up your table saw with your dust collector. Those strips you used look like they are painted MDF. The glue in MDF, when worked on, is not very good to breathe in, and the very small dust particles are not very healthy either.
That's exactly what I need to make for my shelf of tasted beers. Thanks Adam!
I totally thought that that was Adam whistling, and I thought, "How did they find the song that he was whistling?" - and then I realized that the whistling was part of the music 😂
Rolling shutter effect is because of PWM controlling the LED brightness. Definitely not a huge issue, it can be fixed by changing the settings or a different controller.
Hi Adam, that effect with the lights can be stopped by running the frame right of your camera at either 24/60 FPS. Or any other frame rate that comes under NTSC you can google NTSC frame rates. Hope this helps
Love everything you do Adam, but gota say it is great to see you building and I hope there is more to come :)
Brilliant video Adam , love the new look shelves , great video as always .
Nice shelving Adam. Good job
I'm so glad to see that he picked up and used the screw he dropped.
Yes thank you I've been needing lighting ideas for my nerd room!!
It looks awesome. I think you should have installed something to diffuse the light. Maybe a strip of foggy plastic or acrylic.
Adam Savage style, overengineerd! Love it, I would probably used the strips with a simple light difuser to blend the hot spots of the lightstrip. But I love the way you think, wish I could be so inventive :)
love the music on the quite parts
Honestly it looks really good
I wish I had a dad like Adam in my life
Virtual ocean waves are calming.
Nice lighting! Also, nice shoes!
Murphies Law - If you need 10 pieces of wood and buy 10 you will ultimately need 12 however if you need 10 and buy 12 you’ll only ever need the 10 and will forever have the extra 2 hanging around your shop waiting for the right project to use them which will likely never come.
This is correct.
An excellent engineering solution. Backlights. Drill to stir paint super )))
Mr savage rocking some cool ass pants with the fly yellow kicks. Stylish today!
Another source for LED lighting ideas is to take a close look at cosmetic store fixtures. Big box retailers and Ulta particularly. There is an LED strip under each tray or shelf. The strips are held by either a channel they slide into (which also is part of the diffusion) or clip to metal brackets that make contact with a powered backwall system. Source: I lead teams that install these at big box retailers.
Looks awesome! I'm a live theater lighting electrician in a regional production house and we're constantly doing installs like this on set pieces and props. Love the solution of adding a full piece of wood to the front so you can just use one LED tape strip instead of having to solder a bunch of connection points!
I'm curious about the type of LEDs and driver you're using that allows you to connect them concurrently? All of the tapes I've come across have a max run length, which is dependent on voltage and the density of the LEDs on the tape. Or did you do multiple runs back to the power supply that you just didn't highlight in the video?
The rolling gate can often be fixed with an LED driver that lets you change the Hz that the LEDs are flickering at, as well. These can get to be a bit expensive, but might be something to look into~
Thirdly, a small critique and/or suggestion: all LED tapes have a Beam Angle, which is the width of the light emitting from the source. When your tape is mounted so that it's pointing straight back at the back of the shelf like you have it, almost half of the light emitted is being projected up into the shelf above it. This has the added problem of the light intensity dropping off down towards the lower shelf (where the things you're actually trying to light are) and leaving a 'hot spot' at the top section. This is particularly obvious on the taller shelf section in your video, second from the top. To fix this, you can either construct an angled piece of wood that points the tape down towards the items you're displaying, or purchase some angled aluminum channeling that's specifically made to mount LED tape (this has the added benefit of a diffusion lense that evens out the light quality from such small light sources). You're a smart dude, so I hope you know what I mean by 'consider your geometry' when choosing what angle of channeling or wood to use to best compliment the Beam Angle of your LED tape compared to the items you want to light.
Long time fan! Always puts a smile on my face to see someone so clearly fascinated by so many broad subjects, and just as interested as I am in getting your hands dirty in the name of sussing things out how things work, while also being so delighted by the artistry and craft it requires. Hope your new space is treating you well, and look forward to seeing the videos you film in it!
Live in China and recently ordered book shelf for new apartment. It is literally how most cardboard companies here make led. In my case I have light simultaneously to upper layer and bottom layer because strips are behind every shelf
LEDs tend to adjust brightness/temperature by using pulse width modulation. Basically the lights are turned on and off at a fixed voltage very rapidly, creating an effectively lower voltage which can be controlled precisely by changing the ratios of time on and time off per cycle known as the “duty cycle”. The reason changing brightness doesn’t matter is because it doesn’t actually change the frequency, just the duty cycle.
If the pulse frequency is close to being a harmonic of the frame rate of your camera it can show up in artifacts (especially at shorter exposure settings and on sensors that capture one line at a time instead of a full frame).
However this little dance is mainly done to save on power consumption; you can achieve the same thing with a linear power supply circuit (simplest would be a variable resistor) to control the voltages at every color channel of the LED strip and you’d avoid any flicker. Depending on the type of LED strip this might not always be feasible as many have dimming circuitry right in the strip.
There are probably better ways to avoid the problem though. I’ve had a lot of LED lights and never had this problem but maybe I just don’t have a camera with the right combination of properties to notice it.
It’s possible that what you’re seeing isn’t actually the pulse with modulation controlling the LEDs, but some interference of the PWM with some ripple from the power supply. You can try different power supplies on a small strip to test this theory.
This is exactly the type of project I've been wanting to do
The life size Totoro watches all of it... 😂
Rear Cam footage SOOO MUCH clearer!
I'm just fascinated with that massive clamp you were hammering into the table. I've never seen something like that.
They did a video about it at some point, can't remember when though 😝 i thought the system was geniusly simple and functional
The video is bit chaotic- I guess that is the mind of Adam Savage. But by the end, great results. 😂😂😂
Adam’s finally wearing a pair of Tom Sachs Nikes that I’ve actually been able to get my hands on for once.
I LOVE that Totoro! ❤❤❤
8:29 Watching closely, you will notice this human has the remarkable ability to guide his hands with subtle movements of his tongue.
I'd love to hear more about how use used to light the bookcases, I have some Billys with doors I've been looking to add lighting to.
Awesome! Love these kinds of satisfying results. Now you just need to build a mirror rig so you can monitor your phone while using the rear camera :)
I like the L-cuts in editing. Meaningful time lapse audio without the chipmunk.
WHAT WAS THAT SPRAY PAINT MIXER?!? WHERE HAS THAT BEEN ALL MY LIFE?!?
He did a video about it a while ago. Should be able to find it with a search.
Wow! Looks great! Although, I think I'd put some electrical tape or something to block the light sections shining on the pillars.
Another comment: If you want to film yourself with the rear camera but still be able to see what you’re filming on the screen, I suggest rigging a small mirror to the phone to reflect the image so you can see it. (Maybe I just want to see Adam tinker with this 😉)
Watching Adam build LED lighting as? I'm wiring power supplies and a controller for my LED lighting. 😂
Great to see the Andrew Klein workbench getting some spotlight time
Love this! Also, we have the same Klein Bottle selection!
If I were working on this, I would have put an aluminum profile in, mostly for heat dissipation which would extend the life of the LEDs, and then I would have angled them slightly down so that the LEDs aren't shooting directly forwards to the back of the shelves but more so on the items on the shelves. Then I would have done some tests to see whether some diffusion would help or not (which can be added directly to the profile if they are deemed helpful)
I love that Totoro!
Wow right place at the right time.. lol I need lighting solutions as well.. Will check this out!
Put the leds on a champer, so the lights points more down
No hearing protection? *Shocked.
Great build! Might use this later
I'm not a fan of the lit-up spots where the strip passes a vertical part, maybe seal those spaces in?
Also, there's one single LED up at the top left facing out.
Lights, camera... And action!! 😅 What a bright project 😅
"It was a dark and stormy night; the rain fell in torrents-except at occasional intervals, when it was checked by a violent gust of wind which swept up the streets (for it is in London that our scene lies), rattling along the housetops, and fiercely agitating the scanty flame of the lamps that struggled against the darkness."
I’d use some appropriately sized galvanised steel angle to reinforce the shelves then put the Timber facade over it, there’s still the mounting space for the leds too.