Making a Powder coat oven.
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- Опубліковано 15 січ 2021
- Making a powder coat oven from scratch, because nothing is available for small powder coating ovens in Canada. All parts can be bought here, but the controller came from USA.
Special thanks to Alpha Signs & Designs & Targets.
Check out my vid to see how to powder coat at
• How to powder coat. - Навчання та стиль
I just stumbled on your channel and that is the best oven I have seen yet,very well explained 👏, I have looked at a lot of homemade ovens and I think that yours is at the top of my list to copy for my new garage
Excellent. Good luck making your oven.
Great build!
Thank you AZ
Great video guys, i’m really impressed.
Quick question, what temp. Does the outside get up to in Celsius?
Very nice
Wow!
🙋 Cooooooooool
👍👍👍
Good work
Thanks.
Would you be willing to share the plans for this bad boy!? That’s a really nice build and finding videos like yours a tough. Thanks a lot for sharing!!
Thanks, As this was my first one, I had no plans, other than my experience making wood construction sheds.
Great video. Do you have all 4 heating elements on the same breaker or did you split it between two separate breakers? I'm building a similar size oven, but I have 4 3000 watt elements. I'm concerned it will be too much for a one breaker to handle.
Thanks. We had one 50 amp fuse for the PCO402 controller.. If your not using it, you are correct, 4 elements needs to be split onto two breakers. Good luck on your oven.
Hey looks awesome! just currently building my fan into my oven was curious what size ducting tube you used as that looks perfect size many thanks !
It was 4 inch ducting
@@farmboyfixes amazing thankyou
Nice work A! Take off you hoser
That's an amazing build. The one thing I'd note is that it's not a good idea to have those wires simply run through holes drilled in the metal. There should be some type of grommet installed to keep the wires from chafing, or a wire clamp. While it's unlikely to happen, you don't want 220/240 volts shorted directly to a big metal box that someone is going to touch.
Your right on that. Even going through the metal stud factory holes I was concerned. Next build will be grommets.
@@farmboyfixes that's good to hear. But, seriously...that's a great build. I can't wait to see what you guys do with it.
Amazing DIY build. I am currently working on my own. Was confused about having air circulation inside? Even small amounts of air seem to blow off powder coating from the sufaces and I've never seen any commercial or home units using air movement inside. Most guys seem to put one element on bottom and one on top to fill oven chamber. Would like to see how this unit works for you guys down the road. 👍
We mainly use the fan to help circulate the air to speed up the pre-heat time.. Also, we learned to blow out the chamber to remove any dust/whatever before every bake.
Pretty slick 😊!. Would you able to list the part number for the controller and fan you used for this project?
I used the PCO403 controller and the Dayton Fan 1TDV1. Auber Instruments has other Powder Controllers and under parts, they also list different fans. Good luck
Thanks for the video.. I'm building mine roughly the same size and good to see the control panel.... What size fan/spec did you use?
Dayton 1TDV1 Blower, 101 CFM, 115V, 0.52 Amp, 2380 RPM
@@farmboyfixes Appreciate the info...
How many studs do you need to buy and how many sheets of sheet metal?
Very professional build. One thing i thought you may have considered is some guard/protection around those heater elements. Did/are you considering doing so?
No guards, but he made a rack that slides in there and on the outside is a track. the rack has to follow the track to get into the oven and the track has guides to keep it in the center away from the elements and back wall.
Greetings from Portugal! Super cool, do u guys know how can i get the specs for all eletric wiring? I want to build one exactly like this one..
Hello Portugal. I do not know the specs because we ordered the prewired controller. They do offer a kit that requires you to create the whole controller component by component. Maybe thier website has the specs you are after. www.auberins.com. Good luck
Any chance you have a full wiring diagram you could share. Trying to build mine 4x4x6 oven and any help with the control er would be much appreciated thank you and great video!
If you go to the auberius.com, and look for the powder controllers, they have a diagram
may I ask the type of fan you used to circulate the air? Thank you, and nice job on the oven.
Thanks Joel. I used a Dayton 1TDV1 blower, 101CFM, its rated for high temperature.
@@farmboyfixes thank you for responding to me! I was curious if you have noticed if the fan has been blowing to hard to interrupt the flow out on your powder coating and or if it hasn't been blowing hard enough to circulate the air evenly? Thanks again.
I was worried too, so I got the lowest CFM possible, but so far so good. If it was, I was prepared to put a manual louver in the intake to limit the amount of air being sucked up and returned
Nice!! Do you have a list for the heating elements, buttons and side box?
The 2500 watt elements can get anywhere, the controller came complete from Auberins.com.
@@farmboyfixes thanks for the reply!
What thickness of galvanised u channels did yiu use.
Can i use aluminum frames instead
They were your standard galvanized wall studs from Home Depot. I'm guessing 20 guage thickness. If you got alum, use it. You could even use rivets instead of screws. Good luck on your build.
Where did you guys get your C-Channel, or did you bend it on your own?
Got it at Home Depot. Your standard stud used in commercial construction.
Question: they say hot air rises, so..... wouldn't it have been better to introduce the air for the bottom?
Your correct. The hot air is sucked in by the fan at the top, and pushed down the duct work to the bottom of the oven.
I want to build an oven of dimension 5X6X10 ft. Will I have to install heating elements and propane burners combined? Please tell me the combination ie only N1 number of heating elements or N2 numbers of propane burners or both N1 and N2 combined.
I have not worked with propane, but somewhaere on the net must be a BTU's needed for your sq ft oven calculator.
I do know that working with the stove elements, you can always add two contollers to double the elements.
The key thing is to have good insulation and a tight door seal to keep you heat in. Good Luck
@@farmboyfixes thank you Sir
@@pagal_scientist From what I have found, the requirements are 100 to 150 Watts per cubic foot depending on your climate.
Can you please say what type of Elements you used and why as well!! thank you so very much!
I used 4 x 2500 Watt elements for the PCO402. (While the instructions I posted say 3000 watt, that's for the PCO502, 75A control panel)
What should I use to control the temperature for the oven?
They controller we installed came with a temperature probe. The probe was installed in the top left corner.
do you have a list of part you use to bulid do?
No list, I just drew it on paper to get a rough idea of the number of studs, sheets of tin, lots of screws, hinges, elements, and the controller
Which door seal have you used?
We just used a normal rope seal for a wood stove door. It was clued to the oven door with high temperture sealant.
Aren't those metal studs Galvanized? Aren't you concerned about the fumes from the galvanized studs at high temps?
Even the sheet metal is galvanized. He has never complained nor mention any gasses at oven Temps, Welding galvanized you certainly wear a mask, but that's really high temperatures
@@farmboyfixes i was looking it up in Google and says that you can have toxic fumes from the zinc in the galvanized steel as low as 200C... I was just wondering because I'm trying to build an oven as well
@@Jesusdparra I just confirmed with him and his wife, once they close the door and turn on the oven to 400F, they dont smell anything. The first two or three cooks, they had the "NEW" oven smell. But, that being said, have fresh air intake into your area just to be safe. Thanks for that information about the off-gasses.
Where can I get that control panel from
www.auberins.com
Sir, is this pid temperature controller OK with 3 pcs 3100watts heating elements?

Sir, is this pid temperature controller OK with 3 pcs 3100watts heating elements?
Ink bird itc100vh
3 pcs ink bird 40AD each ssr
I am no expert in PID's. My instructions were very clear from the manufacturer. We had 2 PID's each could control 2 elements. From what I see from your brand wiring diagram, only one SSR per PID, I didn't see a diagram for 3 SSR. Best you contact them. Good luck on your oven.
No vent for off gases?
hmm, I do know they open their garage door after they run it. maybe thats why.?
Cost on material roughly?
Not including the $1500 CAD controller and labor cost, around $1900 CAD.
Total cost? I’d love to have one.
It was approx $4000.00 CAD. the controller was very pricy. had to import it from the US, so that was 1500 after duties, shipping, and currency exchange
Internal:
D = 48
W = 52
H = 77
Not including the $1500 CAD controller and labor cost, around $1900 CAD.
Why not run it on Lp gas instead?
customer did not want the hassle of dealing with lp tanks. if it was bigger, lp is the only way to go
@@farmboyfixes Thanks
@@farmboyfixes why if it was bigger lp would be the only way?
A solder connection in not better than a good crip connection! Especially for high heat applications.
wrong. a chemical connection is stronger then a mechanical connection.
@@farmboyfixes Depends on the type of solder used. Some of the lead based solders melt at a temperature below that of powder ring temperatures. Silver solder would be a good choice.
Also, putting the wires halfway in the wall insulation may make for a neat appearance but the temperature in the middle of that insulation will be somehwere between that inside the oven and outside the oven. Insulation only slows the rate of heat transfer. I recently built an oven for 1100 deg C where the outside temperature was touchable when it reached temperature but then even after turning power off, the outside contnued to rise to about 200 deg F and beyond. Think of it like a tank of water. Drill a small hole in the wall near the bottom and the water will leak. Eventually all the water will leak out. Drill a bigger hole and it will leak faster. Small hole, thick insulation; larger hole, thin insulation. (this analogy is is sort of upsidedown from heat flow to some extent but the point is still conveyed)
Good advice Paul. Thanks
How much can you sell for me a bigger one for 84" height by 84 width by 168"
Where abouts are you located
I’m interested in this as well located in Memphis Tn
Thanks for the interest, unfortunately I'm not selling these.
Any chance you would be willing to sell all the fabricated material in house? All the sheet metal and framing pieces I would need.
In Canada, so the cost to make is twice that of the USA. Nobody in Canada makes these small ovens, but on Ebay, I did come across a few from your neck of the woods.
Why a fan
It helps the even out the curing time. Heat rises, so fan sucks it and pushes it through duct work to exit in the bottom. You must have it very clean inside your oven, because the fan will blow crap around, and you will see it on your product.
At What time you have 200°
From a cold oven in a garage that is 15 C, around 30mins for 200 C. He opens the door to put in a cold rack of ready to bake metal, then another 15mins to get back to 200C.