Having seen this in turbo cars with the boost cranked on stock internals, I can say with 100% certainty here that the oem compression rings aren't gapped to handle the boost you're running. When they split in two like that, it is due to the gap closing under boost and heat. When the rings expand to the point that gap closes, those forces have to go else where usually splitting them 180 degrees out, like what you pulled out of the block. For the sake of longevity of this rebuild, I can't stress enough that you upgrade your rings and open the end gap on them. Love that truck of yours, hoping I can at least save you some future headache with her if you do wind up seeing this. Looking forward to the rebuild progress!
I had to bore mine a .5 mm over and I'm glad I did because the factory pistons dont have an oil passage to help keep them cool where as the .5 mm over pistons do. Might be something you want to look at
@@austinniemela Just remember to have the machine shop finish hone with a torque plate with such tight clearances. You can rent one from techtonicstuning.
Wow. I don’t have a TDI. Actually gonna do a 3.4 swap cuz it’s easier and cheaper amongst other things. But I love knowing that information! That’s going to be filed in my brain forever.
Just got done doing a fresh bore ALH rebuild for my Cherokee swap, You send it out get the bores done, Then you bring it home and assemble everything with new bearings. With the nural asv's you'll notice its about 10ish thou too short, go back to the machine shop and have them take that much off. ( not 10 thou exactly but around 8 to 12 thou) shoot for a 1 hole gasket. When I rebuilt my engine I ended up having to get new rods because my piston protrusion measurements were off. Bought IE tuscan rods and all my measurements were very close. Had to swap a couple rods to get the measurements spot on. Remember its all about the compression. Break in procedure for these engines is very specific. I'm sure your on the forums scouring information like I did. If you have any question about the rebuild hit me up.
Stacey Freels that’s what I ordered! From my research the oil squirters don’t need aimed with asv pistons, just for arl! Unless I’m missing something!! Let me know
From the Research I've done your gonna want the oil squirters aimed at the oil galley hole. both at tdc an bdc. other than that they will be squirting at the bottom of the piston like they would with the stock pistons missing the oil galley hole.
I was literally just thinking that. Someone mentioned dirt lifestyle like this guy should ask Nate questions, I'm not so sure Nate shouldn't be asking The questions of this channel. Love em both tho.
I just bought a set of the MaxSpeeding rods. They look good. I haven’t built the motor yet. I have to have my motor bored 1mm over. My #2 cylinder has some damage.
Hi love the job you did..you need to realize that when you put that much boost you need to increase the end gap because of the increased heat...the Mahle coated pistons and a good set of coated bearings from calico
Hey I have rebuilt a few of these engines, Nural ASV pistons are a great upgrade and cannot be beat for the price. If you are going with the oversize ones, they have a shorter piston height. You can usually get away with the thinnest 1 hole head gasket on those. The best part is that they have oil cooling ducts and the ring land height is much lower so the rings hold up better. Just have the machine shop skim the top of the block and you should be OK for height. I usually build up the bottom end first and then measure the piston height and pick a head gasket based on that measurement. I am building a motor now with maxpeeding rods and so far they check out OK. Can't recommend them until I get some miles on the engine but the price was right. Apparently all the H beam rods are coming from the same place in China anyway.
Thats what i have read!! I did the .5mm over ASV pistons and will be decking the block to get my piston projection back in spec!! Just waiting for the rods to come in!!
You can have the machine shop check it but it's by the hour for them to assemble the rotating assembly. You can make up for out of spec protrusion with head gasket thickness but not sure what is available for tdi's.
It's out, now's the time to beef it up for future mods that might happen in the future. Bigger tires, gears, turbo or anything else. Looks like you'll be doing most of the work, spend a little extra now and do it once. My 2 cents.
Might look at the injectors. I had a 5.9 cummins that blew the side out of an injector so I was getting a ton of fuel in the oil causing oil/fuel to overfill and come out the ccv tube
Those things happen. Nothing to worry too much. Poor lubrication can cause piston rings to overheat and lose their tension. Faulty piston rings can be as a result of: incorrect installation, improper dimensions, fuel flooding, inadequate combustion of the fuel/air mixture, and/or abrasive particles in the oil, and tiny chips left after machining could be a reason for this failure too.
What transmission you running on the yota? new to your channel, maybe you got a video I can't find that talks about it? pretty awesome to see a complete tear down of an ALH.
Only advice I’d have is make sure you tap your rings properly for boost. Most likely the added boost made the rings butt up and snapped them when it got too hot from ripping it
Dude,how did you attach the quick disconnect on the gauge for the compression tester. I bought the same kit but the coupler is hitting the head and injector bolt and won’t allow me to engage it
The valve seats may be recessed, which that case it would leak compression. But you said its low on all 4, so it probably is a bottom end issue. Good luck
Check out Frank Irving of Frank’s TDI. He goes by Franko6 on the forums and is an extremely talented machinist. Offers a full range of services for the TDI’s all the way down to CNC porting the cylinder heads. ASV pistons are alright, but BHW pistons with Molnar Technologies connecting rods will be the most bullet proof set up you will find. Lots of guys running that set up on compound turbo 300+ HP ALHs. Also.... I’ve watched a few of your videos and really appreciate them, however, I’m not surprised to see broken rings on your motor with how Smokey that tune is. Unburned fuel leads to high EGT’s, peak cylinder pressures, and low volumetric efficiency. Definitely find someone who is a experienced diesel turner that can correct your map accordingly after the engine is rebuilt.
Austin Niemela interesting, you definitely were getting peak cylinder pressures that the rings couldn’t handle. More likely a symptom of high boost on a stock block like you said. The stock ALH piston rings are way too close to the top of the piston, not enough room for cooling and cause issues when more heat and pressure is added over stock. The BHW pistons aren’t any shorter than ALH pistons so you won’t have an issue with assembling then having to shave the block way down. BHW pistons are superior to ASV in my opinion and Frank’s. Also if the car has a stock 2 hole or 1 hole you have a lot of of room to play with. As for measuring the protrusion make sure you use a deck bridge and 2 dial gauges to get the most accurate measurement. I’m not going to comment on anything else as I know you’re an experienced mechanic.
Are you sure the turbo isn't leaking a crap ton of oil from you possibly destroying the seals when you turned the truck off, and it was still really hot? I have seen engines diesel and gasoline that invested a lot of oil from the PCV or turbo that destroyed the valve seals and piston rings.
Here's an after video question for you, can you give us an update/review on tools you picked up during this project such as your mini metal saw, welding hood and anything else be new you picked up, just let us know how they are holding up, if you still love them, would never but them again, anything that stands out really
Did this ever get hot? I've never seen a burned valve in a diesel. Scuffed cyl walls, broken rings? It is wounded for sure. You can build it bigger, stronger. ETA: After watching all the video I would see if you can buy a .003 or .005 over piston/ring package, otherwise bore to next oversize. You don't want the new piston rocking in the cylinder, you want it tight spec.
He said the bores looked good so there must not be any scratches that can be caught by the fingernail. So if bore size is within spec and there is no taper then no need to bore
Impressed and gutted at the same time. You are truly a jack of all trades. Loss of time and troublesome motor is the ultimate pain. Consider this option: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_KZ_engine I once owned this pickup. I believe it's ideal candidate for the turbo and intercooler you already have... I traded in mine because I needed a double cab. It was bullet proof just like most Toyotas. Good luck.
What intercooler did you use? I'm looking for one like that that has the in/out on the same side with a air flow "uturn" on the side opposite the in/out. Edit: nevermind! You were gracious enough to link your build list in the description 👌.
Los aros se desgastan y el cilindro forma una protuberancia que parte los aros al sacarlos.... es muy dificil que um motor diesel parta los aros... te sale rectificar los cilindros y cambiar pistones... hasta la proxima..
You got the process right. Have your machinist bore it out. Then bring it back to him after you've measured protrusion with new pistons and rods. I'm really surprised to see the failed rings. I was betting $ you had bent rods given your mods
Your really lucky it did not do a runaway situation.......if the oil rings cracked it would have ran until it fragged. Those engines are very expensive to build.
130bhp AWX pd engine swap time or if ya want to go the extra mile the 150bhp ARL lump would be a nice fit and plenty of power to pull them big wheels around i see though you have another engine there is this the replacement or a donor lump also hit up DARKSIDE DEVELOPMENTS check out there website they are the gurus when it comes to the vw family engines and there perfomance parts are something else
Damn ! You need a Toyota engine that's why you blew it. Get the best Diesel Toyota Engine in the world out of a Hilux. That's Great Market I believe don't know if it make to the States. Great Looking Truck by the way ! Keep up the Great content!
talk to Dirt Lifestyle here on youtube, he is building a vw tdi right now and he knows a lot about them, so im sure he can steer you in the right direction.
Bigger turbo? More power? You just moved the point of failure. Something got to go, somewhere! There's only so much you can do. Anything over that and you better have your triple A membership paid for.
Hmmm, 28 psi on a stock high mileage diesel engine, what could possibly go wrong? I'd say you just made out like bandit with busted piston rings! Make this a compound turbo rebuild.
It sux it had to be this bad , still fixable and u can definitely build it better , I'm really glad you know how , for me i just love the content , about the pistons and rods I don't have much knowledge but for what I've heard and read around the forums you're thinking right , both brands are known , this engine is super popular on here but this lil fukers hide what they know like its some Bible secret , and i don't have enough knowledge to tell u for sure , but ASV and maxspeed are known brands here and you're definitely in the correct "thinking line" . This engine is known like the "war engine" here even it went wrong and would be awesome to truly know what caused it , the proof the engine is strong is right there and definitely worth to fix it . If i find any reliable useful tip I'll let you know , awesome job she will be back to life 🙏
Stupid, the hole video is talking about the tdi engine he swapped , that is obviously why he put the vw badge . Alot of ppl do that to give a hint that it's not stock
Having seen this in turbo cars with the boost cranked on stock internals, I can say with 100% certainty here that the oem compression rings aren't gapped to handle the boost you're running. When they split in two like that, it is due to the gap closing under boost and heat. When the rings expand to the point that gap closes, those forces have to go else where usually splitting them 180 degrees out, like what you pulled out of the block. For the sake of longevity of this rebuild, I can't stress enough that you upgrade your rings and open the end gap on them. Love that truck of yours, hoping I can at least save you some future headache with her if you do wind up seeing this. Looking forward to the rebuild progress!
I had to bore mine a .5 mm over and I'm glad I did because the factory pistons dont have an oil passage to help keep them cool where as the .5 mm over pistons do. Might be something you want to look at
This...this needs to be done
This is being done
@@austinniemela Hell yea man cant wait! Love the content keep it comin
@@austinniemela Just remember to have the machine shop finish hone with a torque plate with such tight clearances. You can rent one from techtonicstuning.
Wow. I don’t have a TDI. Actually gonna do a 3.4 swap cuz it’s easier and cheaper amongst other things. But I love knowing that information! That’s going to be filed in my brain forever.
Just got done doing a fresh bore ALH rebuild for my Cherokee swap, You send it out get the bores done, Then you bring it home and assemble everything with new bearings. With the nural asv's you'll notice its about 10ish thou too short, go back to the machine shop and have them take that much off. ( not 10 thou exactly but around 8 to 12 thou) shoot for a 1 hole gasket. When I rebuilt my engine I ended up having to get new rods because my piston protrusion measurements were off. Bought IE tuscan rods and all my measurements were very close. Had to swap a couple rods to get the measurements spot on. Remember its all about the compression. Break in procedure for these engines is very specific. I'm sure your on the forums scouring information like I did. If you have any question about the rebuild hit me up.
Stacey Freels thanks man!! Did you do asv pistons?
@@austinniemela Yeah .5 over and remember to re-aim your squirters. you can check out some of my pics here. www.flickr.com/photos/188080788@N06/
Stacey Freels that’s what I ordered! From my research the oil squirters don’t need aimed with asv pistons, just for arl! Unless I’m missing something!! Let me know
From the Research I've done your gonna want the oil squirters aimed at the oil galley hole. both at tdc an bdc. other than that they will be squirting at the bottom of the piston like they would with the stock pistons missing the oil galley hole.
Stacey Freels so get the pistons in and just eyeball it?
Damn dude ! Your a welder, fabricating, painter, body, diesel mechanic , what else ?😀
I was literally just thinking that. Someone mentioned dirt lifestyle like this guy should ask Nate questions, I'm not so sure Nate shouldn't be asking The questions of this channel. Love em both tho.
Oh I don’t know what I’m doing half the time 😂😂
Car junkie!
I just bought a set of the MaxSpeeding rods. They look good. I haven’t built the motor yet. I have to have my motor bored 1mm over. My #2 cylinder has some damage.
Just when you thought you were about out of content for this build it gifts you more haha
Fucked up but true lol
I like the way you think! haha
@@austinniemela do you speak spanish....?
Tengo una pick up Mazda 1998 cabima doble 4x4, y deseo poner el motor diesel vw tdi que le instalaste en tu Toyota
Te escribo desde Quito Ecuador.
Hi love the job you did..you need to realize that when you put that much boost you need to increase the end gap because of the increased heat...the Mahle coated pistons and a good set of coated bearings from calico
You build motors like your brother, ready to go and ready to blow! Lol. Great thing for us because I love these videos.
Go big, don’t settle... quality parts only... good luck...
Hey I have rebuilt a few of these engines, Nural ASV pistons are a great upgrade and cannot be beat for the price. If you are going with the oversize ones, they have a shorter piston height. You can usually get away with the thinnest 1 hole head gasket on those. The best part is that they have oil cooling ducts and the ring land height is much lower so the rings hold up better. Just have the machine shop skim the top of the block and you should be OK for height. I usually build up the bottom end first and then measure the piston height and pick a head gasket based on that measurement. I am building a motor now with maxpeeding rods and so far they check out OK. Can't recommend them until I get some miles on the engine but the price was right. Apparently all the H beam rods are coming from the same place in China anyway.
Thats what i have read!! I did the .5mm over ASV pistons and will be decking the block to get my piston projection back in spec!! Just waiting for the rods to come in!!
You can have the machine shop check it but it's by the hour for them to assemble the rotating assembly. You can make up for out of spec protrusion with head gasket thickness but not sure what is available for tdi's.
I will do all that, i meant have the machine shop check out the rods and make sure they are all good!
it will be brand new soon! good job.
It's out, now's the time to beef it up for future mods that might happen in the future. Bigger tires, gears, turbo or anything else. Looks like you'll be doing most of the work, spend a little extra now and do it once. My 2 cents.
Good work on the truck. I'm really thinking about doing something like this with a 86 s10
Just a heads up, the crankpulley bolt needs to be replaced. one time use only! had mine break once. that was no fun
Might look at the injectors. I had a 5.9 cummins that blew the side out of an injector so I was getting a ton of fuel in the oil causing oil/fuel to overfill and come out the ccv tube
Those things happen. Nothing to worry too much. Poor lubrication can cause piston rings to overheat and lose their tension. Faulty piston rings can be as a result of: incorrect installation, improper dimensions, fuel flooding, inadequate combustion of the fuel/air mixture, and/or abrasive particles in the oil, and tiny chips left after machining could be a reason for this failure too.
I still say go with a LT2, Looks like you know what your doing Austin, Once its rebuilt there should'nt be anything left to fail .
Check out your tune, #3 and #4 looked like they had a lot of heat in them compared too #1 and #2, flow test injectors too.
ellerbeeweston injectors are new and all calibrated. They didn’t look hot, mainly just wet from not burning
omg this guy knows his stuff
Thanks!!
what electric fan/radiator set up are you running? and that intercooler fits perfect. what size did you go with?
What transmission you running on the yota? new to your channel, maybe you got a video I can't find that talks about it? pretty awesome to see a complete tear down of an ALH.
I have a adapter plate to the V6 toyota trans
Only advice I’d have is make sure you tap your rings properly for boost. Most likely the added boost made the rings butt up and snapped them when it got too hot from ripping it
How much ring end gap would you say?
Maybe the stock ring end gap was too tight for the boost you were running, something to think about ☮️
My first thought
wow. what caused those rings to burst? is the turbo too much??
I’m not sure why!!
Usually rings break from having too small of “ring end gap”. Something to think about when you’re putting the new engine back together!
You have to run more Ring GAP with BOOST or you will do the same thing again.
Dude,how did you attach the quick disconnect on the gauge for the compression tester. I bought the same kit but the coupler is hitting the head and injector bolt and won’t allow me to engage it
Jerome Campbell that’s wierd! Mine bolts right in! Make sure it’s the longer adapter
The valve seats may be recessed, which that case it would leak compression. But you said its low on all 4, so it probably is a bottom end issue. Good luck
Check out Frank Irving of Frank’s TDI. He goes by Franko6 on the forums and is an extremely talented machinist. Offers a full range of services for the TDI’s all the way down to CNC porting the cylinder heads. ASV pistons are alright, but BHW pistons with Molnar Technologies connecting rods will be the most bullet proof set up you will find. Lots of guys running that set up on compound turbo 300+ HP ALHs. Also.... I’ve watched a few of your videos and really appreciate them, however, I’m not surprised to see broken rings on your motor with how Smokey that tune is. Unburned fuel leads to high EGT’s, peak cylinder pressures, and low volumetric efficiency. Definitely find someone who is a experienced diesel turner that can correct your map accordingly after the engine is rebuilt.
Evan Olson fueling is going to be turned down. However I never saw over 1400 degrees ever!
Austin Niemela interesting, you definitely were getting peak cylinder pressures that the rings couldn’t handle. More likely a symptom of high boost on a stock block like you said. The stock ALH piston rings are way too close to the top of the piston, not enough room for cooling and cause issues when more heat and pressure is added over stock. The BHW pistons aren’t any shorter than ALH pistons so you won’t have an issue with assembling then having to shave the block way down. BHW pistons are superior to ASV in my opinion and Frank’s. Also if the car has a stock 2 hole or 1 hole you have a lot of of room to play with. As for measuring the protrusion make sure you use a deck bridge and 2 dial gauges to get the most accurate measurement. I’m not going to comment on anything else as I know you’re an experienced mechanic.
Are you sure the turbo isn't leaking a crap ton of oil from you possibly destroying the seals when you turned the truck off, and it was still really hot? I have seen engines diesel and gasoline that invested a lot of oil from the PCV or turbo that destroyed the valve seals and piston rings.
Such tiny engines!....are they easy to work on?
I bet going from low boost all those miles to high boost just finished off those stock rings.
Yeah thats what did it!!
Austin Niemela well as shitty as that is, you’ll have a brand new 0 mile engine soon lol
Here's an after video question for you, can you give us an update/review on tools you picked up during this project such as your mini metal saw, welding hood and anything else be new you picked up, just let us know how they are holding up, if you still love them, would never but them again, anything that stands out really
Did this ever get hot? I've never seen a burned valve in a diesel. Scuffed cyl walls, broken rings? It is wounded for sure. You can build it bigger, stronger. ETA: After watching all the video I would see if you can buy a .003 or .005 over piston/ring package, otherwise bore to next oversize. You don't want the new piston rocking in the cylinder, you want it tight spec.
He said the bores looked good so there must not be any scratches that can be caught by the fingernail. So if bore size is within spec and there is no taper then no need to bore
Nate's the man - def check him out for help with TDI help.
Impressed and gutted at the same time. You are truly a jack of all trades. Loss of time and troublesome motor is the ultimate pain. Consider this option: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_KZ_engine
I once owned this pickup. I believe it's ideal candidate for the turbo and intercooler you already have... I traded in mine because I needed a double cab. It was bullet proof just like most Toyotas. Good luck.
Too bad it blew up, but that means just more awesome content and your truck will be at 100%!
What intercooler did you use? I'm looking for one like that that has the in/out on the same side with a air flow "uturn" on the side opposite the in/out.
Edit: nevermind! You were gracious enough to link your build list in the description 👌.
U need to check out darkside in the uk
Los aros se desgastan y el cilindro forma una protuberancia que parte los aros al sacarlos.... es muy dificil que um motor diesel parta los aros... te sale rectificar los cilindros y cambiar pistones... hasta la proxima..
You got the process right. Have your machinist bore it out. Then bring it back to him after you've measured protrusion with new pistons and rods. I'm really surprised to see the failed rings. I was betting $ you had bent rods given your mods
Cool! Yeah i really dont know how they broke! Ring end gap wasnt too terribly tight (.38mm)
Your really lucky it did not do a runaway situation.......if the oil rings cracked it would have ran until it fragged. Those engines are very expensive to build.
How did you hook up your vacuum assist brakes
To the vacuum pump
@@austinniemela i have an older tdi with no vacuum pump and the motor is totally mechanical
I had this happen with a 475 cat, no ring in #5 piston and oil leaked out the blow by
It's a bummer this happened but at the same time I'm pumped because i've been looking for a good ALH rebuild on youtube.
Good deal your in luck!! 👍👍
Hate that happened, definitely something with the piston rings, valve sealing issue, or head gasket if your compression is low.
Good luck bro
Great content. I guess it could have been a lot worse. Interested to see what it’ll cost to rebuild!
Hmm. Time for a cummins repower 2.8 🤔😁🤷♂️
Rd28 is the perfect swap for them best small 6cylinder diesel
dont rely on what the machine shop say, i would check measurements by my own, i even weighted the pistons and rods ....ask me how i got to know this
Of course i will measure everything!
wooooooo!!!🤘run’em hard!!!
Dude if your in Washington need help for a 85 driver side window with vent. Don’t need the vent window just the main window.
Not sure if these are the same as 85!
I just noticed that the tdi engines use the same oil cooler as the 1.8t’s
Can't help you with small European diesel engines, as I ve only worked on Scania, iveco, man, Mercedes and Volvo engines
Throw a stock one into it till u get another one built bulletprood
Why not a LS 350 , money right!!
130bhp AWX pd engine swap time or if ya want to go the extra mile the 150bhp ARL lump would be a nice fit and plenty of power to pull them big wheels around i see though you have another engine there is this the replacement or a donor lump also hit up DARKSIDE DEVELOPMENTS check out there website they are the gurus when it comes to the vw family engines and there perfomance parts are something else
Damn ! You need a Toyota engine that's why you blew it. Get the best Diesel Toyota Engine in the world out of a Hilux.
That's Great Market I believe don't know if it make to the States.
Great Looking Truck by the way !
Keep up the Great content!
Is your brother Camron Niemela? He builds dirt bikes
Yes!
Saw the video, still watching it. I'm guessing rods due to the 1856 like we talked about.
Forgot to post after I watched it, any idea why you broke 3 rings? Think it could be SOI (duration)?
Not sure! Could just be the miles on the motor and didn’t like the boost!
@@austinniemela Well, here's to hoping she's back up soon! You going with MaxSpeeding rods?
Why you don't put a new cummins 2.8 L diesel?
I thought it was already rebuilt well I didn't watch from the beginning when you started messing with the truck
Nope!
talk to Dirt Lifestyle here on youtube, he is building a vw tdi right now and he knows a lot about them, so im sure he can steer you in the right direction.
Bigger turbo? More power?
You just moved the point of failure. Something got to go, somewhere! There's only so much you can do. Anything over that and you better have your triple A membership paid for.
Swap a 3L turbo engine
Hmmm, 28 psi on a stock high mileage diesel engine, what could possibly go wrong? I'd say you just made out like bandit with busted piston rings! Make this a compound turbo rebuild.
Woow
Put in a 1UZ fe...or a 3UZfe....
The problem was caused by the VW logo... lol
Rodrigo Castro haha funny guy
@@austinniemela and Rodrigo,
Damned Logo!
DAMN !!!!! BRO YA JUST IT IT ALL SQUARED AND FINISHED??? WE ALL KNOW WITH OFF ROAD STUFF ITS NEVER REALLY FINISHED!!!!
Damn! Time to put a 22re in that girl
3.4...22re is a super reliable little engine but it won't pull a sick woman off a bedpan.
@@robertevans8503 no but it would be hell of a show
22ret yer
2.8 cummins
No guys just NO!!
Thats bad man 😅
240k miles?bore it .005-.010 over and go from there
Mine got 400,000 miles run like new
Timing belt may have jumped a few cogs.
its always something:(
Just like Roseanna Roseannadana’s Grandma always used to say!
1KZ 1KZ 1KZ I’m gunna keep telling you
Mine has 371000km never opened the valve cover.
Not disputing your engine's quality, but that's 20,000 miles less than his engine has on it.
I’ll get back to ya in another 20k
Good for 500k+
Put a pd 1.9 diesel engine and rip the vp engine
Top Ring Gap Too Small...."Turbo Life"
on a motor that has 250k miles on it? don't think so
@@gregh7457 Did you Gap the Rings ??
ring end gap was out of factory spec btw
@@austinniemela how far out? i've got an ALH with the same mileage
greg h just barely, the only ring I could check haha
time for Mercedes-Benz OM606 ! the 2jz of diesel world lol
Rip
If you and your brothers had a band: what would you play.
It sux it had to be this bad , still fixable and u can definitely build it better , I'm really glad you know how , for me i just love the content , about the pistons and rods I don't have much knowledge but for what I've heard and read around the forums you're thinking right , both brands are known , this engine is super popular on here but this lil fukers hide what they know like its some Bible secret , and i don't have enough knowledge to tell u for sure , but ASV and maxspeed are known brands here and you're definitely in the correct "thinking line" .
This engine is known like the "war engine" here even it went wrong and would be awesome to truly know what caused it , the proof the engine is strong is right there and definitely worth to fix it .
If i find any reliable useful tip I'll let you know , awesome job she will be back to life 🙏
You have built a really great Toyota Truck, but why the hell you put a Volkswagen Diesel in it?
swap in a cummins instead.
GM 2.0 turbo
If its a Toyota why does it have a V.W EMBLEM..???????
Stupid, the hole video is talking about the tdi engine he swapped , that is obviously why he put the vw badge . Alot of ppl do that to give a hint that it's not stock
As custom car builder of over 20 years experience. Should be incorporated into the valve cover or a larger version on the under side of the hood.
I thought it was a 4BT CUMMINS. 😂😁
It should be
No way
@@offroadriverfishing you've never owned a modern vw tdi have you?
greg h it’s German so no. Didn’t vw get into some sort of trouble about performance or something of that sort?
greg h from the looks of that engine...it looks great🤦🏻♂️
Check the piston rings
Did you watch till the end?
Lucky guess
Flynn
What happened to mechanics getting dirty? Now they all wear gloves!
Protecting our bodies is an important part of the job
Man that sucks, I hate it for you
Mate, engine just want to be as nice as the body.
🇵🇦🇵🇦🇵🇦🇵🇦🇵🇦🇵🇦👍👍👍👍
How could you blow a diesel motor on a Toyota? Those things are abused in Nicaragua and the rest of the world and they never die.
German engineering.
Your odd sexual exploits should stay behind closed doors.
4BT Time.