@@theguycanfly98 Thanks! I did use Lucas in a VTEC Accord and it shut down the VTEC. I also used Barrs Stop Leak several videos back in this series. The thing is, I don't want to plug any holes up with thickening additives and metal conditioners (e.g. a lot of viewers recommend Restore), I want to unclog and loosen things up with cleaners to see if we can get the engine working like it's supposed to. That's not to say we can, but I'd like to prove it one way or the other. Thanks for the sub and the comment!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I believe Lucas has a thinner full synthetic for low viscosity oil. Hear me out maybe add a little less than recommended of the lucas to thicken the oil a touch and maybe whatever cleaner you put in there will hold onto the rings better like the yamalube if you do another go as this cleaner. Just a thought, but I am highly invested in knowing if any of these will work, or if you finally just have to disassemble the motor and manually unstick the rings or get new rings.
I don't think your going after the problem you have.... I think it's the valve stem seals not the rings because you have oil on the top of the piston and the engine is blowing oil smoke out of it when you start the engine. The vacuum of the engine is pulling the oil through the the valve guides because the valve stems seals are probably rock hard and the guides may be loose (worn) too. You can put as much snake oil (oil additives) as you want in the engine it is not going to repair valve guide seals that are rock hard and no longer function or loose valve guides. You don't get deposits of oil on the top of the pistons like that with sticking rings because the pressure is forced down not up into the conbustion chamber you would get a ton of blowby. Try this to see if the rings are sealing, open the oil cap put a rubber glove over the hole where you add oil and seal it good. Rev the engine a bunch of times and see if the glove fills up. If it does fill a lot then you have blow by if not it's something else like what I mentioned above. My two cents from a technician of 45 years.
I dont think hes ever going to fix that due to his car "still using oil" he can keep making content on it. would like to see if stem seals would fix this since the b12 helped heaps
His compression is around 240psi on all 4 cylinders. That’ll raise crank case pressure while the engine is running and push oil through the valve stem seals while at higher RPMs.
Smoking on initial start: If you start the car from cold, and it starts to smoke after a couple of seconds and continues to smoke for a couple of minutes, then goes away, that usually means the the valve stem seals are bad. If it would be piston rings then the smoke would not go away and would start smoking even more under load and also will smoke on a trailing throttle going downhill.
@@DirkOzsorry I know I am a Stan for diy Dave at this point, but I'll point out he has a whole 30 video playlist and he has already replaced the valve seals, and there is also a video where he has a camera on his exhaust for like 20 minutes. The smoke keeps coming out anytime he accelerates aggressively or goes up a hill.
Long time viewer, 1st time commenting My 98 corolla had mass oil consumption almost a quart a week, driving hard about 75+ daily miles odometer at 187,xxx Decided to use Amsoil Engine Flush one of its details says Helps loosen sticky valves and rings, minimizing blow-by and reducing emissions on top of reading reviews why not give it a shot For $27 best product I’ve used with 1 use and great results I still have the oil I flushed out and it was very dark with small crumbs it sure loosened allot in there and after driving nearly 200 miles under 3hrs oil was still golden and oil consumption was way down had me smiling only had to splash a wee bit oil about 100ml or so, before that trip would’ve been around 400-500ml of oil consumption also running a oil catch can to help prevent blow by into intake manifold
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think that you probably have an valve seal problem too. Anyway... Sometimes, drives it to the rev limiter, and let it hit there, a couple of times while ur using the products...
Dave thank you for your great videos. Our 2018 Kia Sportage 2.4L GDI with 80K miles has been burning 1.5 quarts every 1000 miles. I performed your Chem Tool B-12 treatment and WOW 700 miles later zero oil consumption. Also the oil looks super clean, before the oil quickly turned black after an oil change. Keep up the great work my friend! 👍
The PCV residue will kill GDI engines about 150,000 miles. The valves coke up so badly they won't seat. Synthetic oil always changed by Kia dealer. 2019 Soul 1.6 stick shift.
That is definitely the cleanest the piston tops have ever looked thru. out the entire series, very interesting with the Yamalube! I agree with you about running with the Yamalube for awhile in gas & crankcase, but I know you are trying so hard to follow your same logic until the end, T.Y. so much a very watchful friend!!!
I discovered YLRF in 2006 with AMAZING results over & over again & again. From outboards, lawnmowers, chainsaws & ANY 2 or 4 stroke engine. It has cleaned dirty fuel systems in minutes, un-stuck stuck valves & piston rings, increased power & overall performance throughout all throttle ranges...I even add to the fuel in my 2007 Expedition several times a year. The stuff has proven itself to me & I am a believer!
Awesome video again! Following all the videos I remain at the conclusion worn piston rings. Even with a clean engine and cylinders it continues to burn oil. Also a tip, if you measure pressure in cylinders with so much oil in them, the pressure will probably be always just fine because the cylinders are so wet. The excess oil seals the cylinders. And BG products rock!
21:38 Dave. If you added one quart of the HPL EC (that's High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner) maybe even 40 weight engine oil instead of the 30. That would pretty much be the ultimate test of if the thicker viscosity (combined with their special formulation) helps slow or eliminate ???? consumption on high speed driving. I'd spent that $15 in a heartbeat. I really hope that sounds interesting to you. I see it is usually fresh oil. The HPL EC is actually formulated as an engine oil to not upset any of the additive packages that are in the other oil, the oil you are using is fine.. I too keep using 5W-30 I've been experimenting with 40 grade oils lately. The first number (the 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20 before the W) is "Winter" and has NOTHING to do with the second number, which is the API or SAE (brain fart) grade of the oil.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY One of the reasons I mention it so much is that people don't really know the brand and they are some super good stuff. "Better" than AMSOIL!
I've used a similar product called Auto-RX after a BG EPR flush for a late oci (900miles over) sludged engine running synthetic blend from the dealer. The BG EPR alone did not stop the oil consumption and smoking, but the auto-rx seemed to start working after around 400 miles. Both Auto-RX and HPL EC are oil esters and work over a shorten oil change interval. I think their only downside is the micron size of the debris (reformation) and the need to at least change the oil filter at around 1000 miles. I EPR Method: (1) Warm up the engine until the radiator fan blows 2-3 times. (2) Add BG EPR and run at idle for 20 minutes [remains active for 40 minutes.] (3) For the last 5 minutes cycle between idle and 2000 rpm. (4) Turn engine off and change oil/filter. II Auto-RX Method: (1) {Cleaning Cycle} Add 12 oz of Auto-RX to a fresh oil and filter change. Use your normal weight oil (5w30), but make sure it is group III (Pennzoil Platinum.) (2) Drive 900-1200 miles (max 1500) under any driving conditions. Esters can continue to clean up to a year. (3) {Rinse Cycle} Change the oil (group III) and filter. Drive another 900-1200 miles (max 1500.) (4) For piston ring ("ring pack") cleaning repeat the cleaning and rinse cycles again.
My notes say to use 28.5oz of HPL and 4.45Qt (5qt system) for 16.67% concentration. (10-20%.) BITOG forum has a thread dedicated to HPL EC.
@@macready0230 Yes! I'm trying to convince him to give the HPL a shot lol! I had my chance, I accidentally deleted contact info so it is so hard to let that go.
I love these Corollas maybe alittle too much. Local shop I worked at for years had a 1998 Corolla manual with a bad heater core and from then on it was love at first drive. (Fast forward 10 years) Now I run my own mechanic shop and I have a 1998 Corolla manual and a 2001 Corolla automatic for a loaner cars. Some people really don’t understand the beauty in simplicity of these cars. I stumbled across your videos a couple months back trying to solve the oil burning issues. I tried the B12 chem tool for 48 hours, let it idle for 10min then changed the oil. And I’ve noticed a massive difference already! So I thank you for these videos. I get a lot of satisfaction from fixing these Corollas. On my 2001 automatic Corolla (I just bought for $600) it has a bad rod bearing so I’ll be getting the satisfaction of finally rebuilding a 1zzfe and putting new pistons rings in it and let me tell you I can not freakin wait to take the pistons out of that thing. I feel like you deserve the satisfaction of holding that piston in your hand.
The Ring Free is good stuff. We sell it all the time. It’s kinda expensive though. I tell people that buy it to use it in their old tired lawn mowers. Use it at double strength right before you change oil. It will trash new oil when the gunk turns loose.
Another great job Dave right down to smelling your fumes and the cruisin' tunes! Top of those pistons look great. Every new episode I think... "I bet Dave never thought this corolla oil burning series would go this far down the rabbit hole." Yamalube is for sure doing something. Cheers till the next one!
This has been a great series so far. When you decide to stop the experiments, replacing the pistons and rings with the engine in the car, it is relative simple repair.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was just thinking the same thing watching this video that as many times as you've pulled the spark plugs, changed the oil, and just generally messed around under the hood that you could have easily just swapped in some new rings. For the record, I'm pretty happy that you didn't choose the easy fix as this series is beyond fascinating!
For a trained mechanic though, right? Even aside from the winch to remove the engine, the tools you need are pretty specialized (from the videos I’ve watched). I’d love to change the rings on my 2az fe, but I’m just getting started and it’s probably a couple years of consistent car work before I’d feel confident enough to pull and disassemble the engine.
I agree with you. You'll likely clean those pistons almost completely. Compression has likely come up some; hence the power increase. However that oil tells me mechanical wear of rings and or bore. You've achieved a lot though.
When you eventually tear down the engine I hope you measure how out of round the cylinders have gotten since new which could help explain things , cant wait for the next video and the tear down some day
Oh my lord... with all the experimental work you're exercising, I believe believe that either Toyota and /or many of the LUBRICANT companies owe you alot of FREE ENGINES AND PRAISE... I wanna personally thank you for the testing, patience, and hard work 💪, HERE'S TO YOU !!!
I have a 99 Corolla and burn about 1 1/4 every 1000 miles. Still gonna try a B12 treatment and see if it fixes it. I'm also gonna run 0W-30 oil in it to see if that helps after the cleanup. Thanks for these vids Dave it helps a lot.
Johnny come lately here You can dump as much death in a can as you want its not going to add back the cross hatching that looks heavily worn gone and rings that are in need of replacement. You want a suggestion do a shade tree mech in frame , drop the pan remove the head and one piston at a time change the rings and ball hone the cylinder and throw it back together of course after you run out of death in a can idea's
That's such an asinine comment. You realize who's difficult it is to re-ring an engine for the average person? UA-cam master techs like you make me laugh
Dave, a great study to show it cleans. I enjoyed your test study & as i progresses with your progress. You give great presentation on camera & easy going. always, Tommy🤠.
I've had 2 of these engines. prizm and celica. I'd say 20w50 would be the best oil to use besides in winter temps below 20 degrees. I used straight 40 weight in my celica and it did help with oil consumption.
As a professional mechanic, this is the stuff I wish I could do with customer cars. Unfortunately it's not feasible for obvious reasons. Loving what you are finding out tho, along the way.
Hey bud, I wanted to give you some feedback. I recently purchased a fleet of MINI Bloopers from a customer. If you know Bloopers, mistakes were made, and they are notorious oil burners. Well my BG service rep came by and offered me their engine Dynamic Restorer kit. I was skeptical, but he swore up and down its tried and true. I watched some videos on UA-cam, and was pretty impressed with the results. So I decided to use it. I can tell you with 100% certainty it solved the oil consumption issues on two of my Bloopers. Only the third has bad valve stem seals and smokes after prolonged idle. The other two however, are not consuming oil at all. To the point where I'm not even checking the oil as frequently. The stuff IS pricey (low 300's for a 4 item kit), but it's a lot more money to replace rings on an engine.
As a professional would you say that this stuff would be be safe or use at your own risk on an automotive four-cylinder engine? What potential harm would stuff cause on engine internals or the catalytic converter?
I think what you're seeing with the borescope is carbon deposits from the piston and rings sloughing off onto the cylinders. I think you need more Italian tune ups to really burn off the carbon that is slowly dissolving, especially if you do a lot of city driving short trips like I do. My car won't run right unless I do some hard pulls every few days. I have an idea for an atypical additive for freeing the rings, and that's motorkote. It's a metal binding lubricant that is really effective at reducing friction and freeing things up. It's possible a hyper lubricant could act as a way to unstick some sticky rings, but not so much for the drain back holes. Project farm did a really good video on motorkote with impressive results on friction. One last thing is EVAP problems are super intermittent, and often throw codes, then fix themselves.Can't wait to see the BGK video, and as always I'm enjoying the scientific process of this series!
Some DTCs require failing the internal tests on 2 consecutive trips to log as a current code. ALSO, for many manufacturers, the EVAP system test won't run if the fuel tank is too full or too empty. It might not run unless you do a cold start as well so while the chemicals might be helping the EVAP issues somehow, you might be chasing a red herring
Hey Dave, I like your videos on the Corolla. I have a 98 RAV4 with 274,000. I was gonna tell you about the premium fuel, but somebody beat me to it. Premium fuel is less volatile than regular made for engines built with tighter tolerances so they need less of an explosion in the combustion chamber. Thanks.
I searched the Yamalube ring free, the cheapest I found (on September 18 2023) is $20.00 for 12 oz on the bay. ... by the way, your spark plugs come out of the engine so often they should have wing-nuts lol
Hello Dave, I have been following along with your Oil Burning series as I have an oil burning Honda Element. I posted a comment on video eleven. My efforts included Seafoam, which de-sludged my engine, Toyota engine cleaner, noticed no difference. I tried a product my neighbour recommended, he works for a GM dealer, AC Delco engine oil supplement. This product is not marketed as a engine ring cleaner but as a engine rebuilding lubricant and I noticed a difference immediately in the level of noise the engine made and my oil consumption. After 3 treatments following the instructions on the bottle oil consumption was cut in half. I then tried what might turn out to be the most successful product yet, Castrol GTX Ultraclean 5W-30 synthetic engine oil! Boy did this stuff turn black fast. After 1500 miles I changed the oil and filter and repeat. 1500 miles later again changed the oil and filter. The oil was again black but the oil consumption was noticeably less. Now on my third Castrol GTX Ultraclean oil change, the oil has not changed color and consumption is way down. I will update this comment in a couple of months as not enough time/miles have been driven. Car idles/runs better than ever though. You may want to try a oil that is marketed to clean engines rather than a additive that cleans engines in a future test. The oil is in the engine longer. I must say I was impressed with the Yamalube ring free plus product. Thank you for posting these videos.
We have continued to use the Castrol Ultraclean in our Honda Element. The engine is now consuming about a quart every 450 miles however the color of the oil remains transparent a lot longer. Oil consumption has gotten worse but highway speeds tend to consume more oil as Dave has mentioned. I'm going to try a Yamaha ring free treatment next@@Tate.TopG.
@buckhorn2007 Thanks a lot for the updates. I have a tacoma 2.7L, and it's consuming quite a bit of oil before I reach the 3000 miles . I may have to try your method 😉
AC Delco Engine Top Treatment stopped my 2007 Camry's oil consumption completely. I now change oil very 5000 miles and still have 1/4 of oil left from the bottom dot on the stick. It used to burn a quart every 500 miles. The problem was the leaky valve stem seal on cylinder 3, and I had all the seals replaced before doing the AC Delco treatment.
I like this channel as you can see which products work, which others may help but dont fix it, i want to see if you can try the bg dynamic cleaner treatment, that one is expensive but puts stress on the engine to let the product work, but if those dont work you can conclude worn rings, block or oil seals.but the journey of this channel saves tons of money to everybody, thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Wow!!! That is one clean piston! looks like Yamalube did a great job removing the carbon deposits on top of the pistons. Also your compression tests have improved. I'm thinking of trying this out see if it will do the same for my MK5 GTI. Thanks! I'm still wondering why you're burning oil though. It should be sealing now since the rings may have been cleaned.
Dave Can not wait to see the bg109 test just alittle heads up , the bg 109 is ( Heat Activated) make sure you are at operating temperature. and at 2,000 rpm for 20 min. I have used this on my own car and 3 of my nephews and one nieces car and it worked.
New here...i dunno all you have tried or done. But the first things I look and address with oil burning is to clean or replace the PCV valve then put a catch can inline between the PCV and the intake manifold. Also add a catch can inline on the breather side. It would help monitor how much oil is being drawn thru those sources. Judging by the straight oil in the cylinders its likely coming thru those sources vs the rings going off the strong compression numbers.
My thought is try a catch can to see it you are battling two issues I have been using ring free in the gas for all my water craft and small engines for 10 year I can say starting them never been easer and I don`t have to use combustion cleaner in the two strokes and more.
Have you considered some valve guide seals. Also, consider a thorough inspection of the PCV system...the valve cover is also an air-oil separator. If clogged in just the right way, the engine oil vapors will get pushed past the piston rings due to clogged pcv. I'm just curious if that pcv valve, or some of the chambers inside the valve cover.
You need to turn the gas cap and listen for 6 or so clicks. Not sure what the manufacturer recommends but that's how I do it. You tighten up the gas cap and it just stops you need to do some more to hear the clicks. Much better seal for the EVAP system.
Hey Dave I ending putting a new engine in today unfortunately with my previous engine lost compression in number 2 cylinder from a broken compression ring. Keep the great videos coming sir!
Well it definitely looks like the Yamalube Ring Free did something. It seems like it would be worth changing the oil every 1000 miles and continuing to adi the Yamalube to the fresh clean oil and gas. Really good videos Dave! Thanks for sharing. 😁👍🤞
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY surely every chemical is helping clean the engine, though yamalube definitely has made a difference. To clean the oil rings I believe its necessary to treat the engine from the crankcase over time. I've used liquid moly oil flush also Wynns oil flush on the last 2 1000 mile oil changes. The last time with Wynns oil flush however rather than letting the car idle I waited until temps were up then I drove it hard for about 30 miles, the oil came out like out of a diesel engine. Its a vw 1.6 petrol, tohc 16v vvt. I've had it with different mechanics to try to get it running better but so far no-one can fix it. The only improvements were from spraying water mist into the throttle valve plus fuel and oil cleaners. It didn't burn a lot of oil like yours however compression is only 100psi on 3 cylinders and cylinder 3 had only about 85psi, that was a few months ago before all the flushing, I think its time to do another compression test to see if that has improved or not. This engine has 120k miles plus looks like it's been deprived of normal service intervals. The 2 common fault codes I get are Lambda 1 outside parameters and knock sensor. I have replaced knock and MAP sensor, on live diagnostic lambda sensor is working fine, except it is intermittent when driving or maybe a broken wire, I think replacing lambda sensor is my next move. When I bought the car it was knocking and pinging so bad I had to ease off on the gas to save the engine from wrecking itself, I though big ends were going out was so bad. Both cats have been removed by previous owners.. with the cleaning there's now no problems with knocking but I'm still getting the same 2 codes lambda plus knock sensor. To make a long story short I think it's important to keep a engine very clean, even though we have failed to fix the real fault code cleaning has left the car driveable, I am considering constantly running the oil with pre change flush as I think it takes a lot of time to dissolve the built up carbon and a lot of oil changes to carry the carbon away, obviously any chemical treatment will weaken as it works so I think it's takes a lot longer and regular drains with cleaning chemicals refreshed often for any chance to unstick dirty oil rings. I've seen one guy bench soak testing many different chemicals like seafome, lucas, etc on old removed pistons with stuck carboned up rings. The most effective Chem was white vinegar. I know this sounds crazy but I think if you were to drain the engine, remove spark plugs, and then fill it up to the neck, I mean until it runs out of spark plugs, rocker cover etc. with white vinegar then carefully and slowly turning the engine over by hand brace at 6 hour intervals as you did, but over a few days, then drain out the vinegar and replace with oil, I would suggest a double oil change to rinse out the vinegar and be sure full lubrication is back throughout the engine before restarting it, probably better not even start the engine on first oil change, just crank it without plugs or fuel. This would be an interesting project. My point is white vinegar releases stuck oil rings better than all the other expensive chemicals I've seen sofar, however how do you get it to the oil rings to soak without dismantling the engine. I think it would take a couple of gallon of strong vinegar, I've no idea if it would have any negative effects on seals or gaskets etc but my guess it would stop any oil residue protection from the shell berrings so no way could you run the engine or even think about it until the vinegar was well flushed out..
@@martinmuldoon603 Thanks for the suggestion, Martin. I watched the vinegar video (I think it was This Old Tony?) but he said it only worked on the rings because they were stuck with rust, and that he didn't think it would work on combustion byproducts.
I believe you added about 10 times more Yamalube into your gas tank than the directions suggested......but hey what a great job it did! Hope you try an Amsoil engine flush at some point and Amsoil PI Performance Improver in your gas tank. Btw....Fantastic vids Dave! Enjoying the journey......
Maybe remind us all you’ve done the valve stem seals at the beginning of each episode. Curious if it still pings on regular with the carbon mostly gone. Looking forward to the final chapter where you replace the pistons and rings with updated parts! Fun series.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was going to say the same thing this guy did because any hot spots on a piston due to carbon buildup will see less issues on super
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think you could do with a new set of plugs or at least a good clean should help to run at its best, I don't claim it will help oil burning.
@@hotrodray6802 Even with the high 10:1 compression ratio and effectively a wet test with all the oil in the cylinders I’d still only expect 180 or so. 240 is a head scratcher unless there’s really that much carbon in the combustion chamber we can’t see.
Check the evap purge valve in the engine bay. Incorrect purge flow is caused by a leaking purge valve allow intake manifold vacuum to pull fuel vapor into the engine. Very noticeable after fueling up. Hopefully that check helps.
I haven't been following all of your videos, but the P0441 is usually super easy to diagnose. unplug the purge solenoid electrical connector and the cannister side vacuum hose. Start the car, if you feel vacuum at the solenoid nipple, the solenoid has failed open.
I'm very curios to see how your engine flush with BG EPR will work for you. I did it on my Volvo and we went from a liter every 1000 miles to less than a liter in 4500 before the next oil change
Dave, first off all thanks for all your great videos on oil burning… man you are persistent and with patience with that car. I do wanna see your results with the BG treatment, i already did that and this is my story: 2013 sonata gls, known for burning oil. It has the issue since 55k and now has 96k, i did a lot of stuff trying to fix the issue but no success. I did your method with Barryman and i soaked the rings for 3 days and cranking twice a day and adding 1oz in every cylinder after crank. Car barely started after that. When I started and got warm i added the entire can of BG and run it for 25 min at 2250rmp. In a meantime i installed oil catch can and switch from mobil 1 full synthetic to Valvoline for the first time ever. The car used to burn 1qtr every 700-800 miles. Now after 860 miles not even single drop is burned and the oil look’s crystal clear. I can not even believe it got fixed. Waiting to see your experience. Good luck from NJ
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY here is my update after more than a month: was checking every 800 miles how the engines performs, at 2400 miles no oil burned and dipstick level is to the top dot. At 3400 1gtr of oil is gone and the level is now at the bottom dot. I added 1qtr and i will be checking the level at 4K miles, now im wondering what happened so no oil was burned and what changed in those 1000 miles between 2400-3400 so 1gtr is missing??? From what i see online, someone was doing the same thing and after the flush he changed the oil and the filter, drive it for another 30 min and change the oil and filter again so it flushes the rest of chemicals. I will try this and see how it goes. I was happy for a month or so that all is good but now back to square 1 and keep trying to see what is happening. Did your oil consumption changed from 900 miles/ 1gtr?
I wonder if soaking some Berryman chem dip in the cylinders would free them, I’ve seen how that stuff just melts away carbon and dirt and I wonder if since it soaks down it would just clean those rings right up. Or maybe later try some bg dynamic engine cleaner oil, stuff is pretty expensive, around 200$ but I’ve seen videos show how it cleans engines up really nice.
Nice Lizard on the wiper blade. Nice to see that it cleaned the top of the pistons. Man you sure like to splurge by buying premium gas. Noted that it was only $3.51 /gal. Nice , Here in Michigan right now it is $3.59 for the Regular 87 octane , Premium i think is $0.60 higher or more. Anyway, the car was design to burn regular 87 and that is all i ever use , And now at 219k miles on 99 Rolla with automatic trans I still get 33MPG like i did yesterday after driving 260 miles . Where did you get the Yamalube ? i like to try it in my car. Thanks.
I think you should consider usign multiple times Liqui Moly engine flush pro line in the oil when the engine is hot for 12-15 minutes and then change the oil, this stuf is top level in Europe. If you want to you should definitly use Tec 2000 engine flush (30ml) in each of the cilinders as and extra step and let it go through the piston ring to the oil, then change the oil. Next crank the engine without the sparkplugs to remove the rest of that Tec 2000 from the piston tops, reinstall sparkplugs and go for a nice "Italian tune-up" aka. drive the car hard with high RPM ;)
Great and informative video, very good cleaning on the pistons from the Yamalube ring free treatment 😊👍 Looking forward for the BG treatment, I'm very curious on that.
Thanks for the video. You really shouldn't be using premium gas. Higher octane only helps if you have higher compression ratios and it will actually lead to un-burned fuel being pushed into the crank case. The Yamalube looks like it did a great job. I think you have the right idea to run the Yamalube for longer. Looking forward to the BG. Great series. By the way, a time laps of the bore scope would be nice and a chart showing oil consumption vs mileage (and notes on highway mileage) would be nice too. (I know, it's a lot to ask but going forward maybe?) Have a great one.
Thanks for the input Bruce! ... I'd love to do the charts and stuff (like Project Farm). Maybe I'll have time at the end of the series to have a follow-up with info like that in it. … oh and I get pre-detonation if I use lower octane fuel.
Just as an aside, though this is heavily bound on the fuel market for your area, using premium fuel is one of the few ways to get guaranteed ethanol-free in large density metro areas to folks who are concerned about mandated ethanol use. You're spot on about not seeing any performance difference on normal engines though. In our area of the DFW metroplex for example, almost all stations have gone to running a 10% ethanol blend even in regular 'ol 87 for emissions, but so far as engine durability and the requiescence of subsystems (fuel lines, seals, etc), the ethanol blends are most certainly a detriment to be avoided if you can. A properly maintained engine will burn cleaner and pollute less than having ethanol forced upon one self, but that's a rather slim slice of the market these days.
Higher octanes shouldn't have that effect, most of what higher octane does is be more likely to burn when sparked and not pre-ignite/knock. It's necessary for high compression ratios due to the compression ratios making pre-ignition more likely, but should pose no harm when used in an engine designed to handle lower octane fuels. It won't net you any performance out of it, but if you have an engine that has a history of trouble, it can only help to run high octane fuel through it to at least see if it runs any differently, if not just to err on the side of caution while doing other maintanence things to try to bring it back to health.
In a high mileage engines with sufficient carbon build up, the compression ratio might naturally become higher. But with knock sensors and whatnot, yes, the ECU will retard timing to prevent knocking on low octane fuel.
This brings me back to pouring a quart of oil each week in my Prius when I was driving 100 miles a day. I tried a lot of treatments but ended up putting a junkyard engine in that cost me $400.
Have you considered "Stiction Eliminator" oil additive by Hot Shot's Secret? The diesel guys rave about it breaking up sticky engine sludge and ending smokey starts. Can be used on gas engines too.
I had an 88' Nissan Pulsar NX. 1.6L L4 E16 Beautiful engine. I used to run 1 pint of KleenStrip acetone per fill up in gas tank (11 gals). It dumbed down the octane, promoted a higher conflagration rate, very clean exhaust. I deleted the Catalytic converter, replaced with a silver painted Thrush glass pack, then a regular muffler. It was quiet and smokeless. The acetone helps everything to burn up. It would keep the plugs clean, rings sharp. The 88' E16 is very snappy, like a chainsaw!
The cylinder walls are like glass. Its probably going to consume oil even with perfect rings. I had the same issue with yamaha yzf1000. If fuel has washed the walls and they are polished. Oil consumption is constant. It would need a honing job to get the grosshatch back. But freeing piston rings can still lower the consumption.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY If you think you still have stuck rings, then isn't soaking them for days upon days, from the top down, make sense? Maybe drain out the oil, add cleaner to the top of the piston, let it drain through and even reuse the cleaner that comes out of the oil pan that has no oil in it? Repeated soakings for days? Check BDC and TDC drain rates? Maybe try to push the piston near TFC, into the sidewalls, with a wooden dowel it you're brave enough, to try and break those rings free from the gunk and varnish from excessive heat that 4 cylinders usually run at? Or do you just want to keep making videos for money or the attention or disproving engine cleaners?
Have you added oil to the cylinder after first compression check and checking again. That’s how we used to check rings when j was a kid. The other method is a regulated air compression leak down test. Those are used commonly on aircraft engines to assess ring wear and effectiveness.
Have you checked or changed the pcv valve? Have you done a compression test to check how the cylinders are sealing? Both of those things would be on my list of first things to do with an oil burning problem. If the vehicle has high miles and is just likely worn there isn't much you can do except use thicker oil. Use like a high mileage oil that is thicker. Go to like a 10w 30 and see how it does.
26:39 I'm not gonna lie, that BG 109 (a.k.a. BG44K EPR or Engine Performance Restoration, model part number BG109 I believe that's the one from the video I linked you also) .... is good stuff. You're unloading the big guns now. I would love to see the HPL take on your engine.. I also want your engine to not burn oil. LOL
i have a 2001 crolla that burnt oil, i ran a quart of atf through the engine and drove it super hard (im talking evey other shift a limiter shift) came back and drained the oil it was super dark, then added new oil + filter with a lil liquimoly so far 3k miles and not a single drop of oil lost
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY ya no problem i love your series i know the only real way to stop the consumption is to rebuild the engine but part of me wants you to keep making these videos because they are so entertaining/informative
Been using used ATF before oil changes on Friends and Family vehicles since the 90's; a practice my uncle had been doing for many years before that. What's cheaper than used ATF, right? Works great in my experience.
Firm believer in Yamalube oils, used the brand for many years. If you dont mind smoke the old school method in a cattle syringe 10-30cc of diesel poured in each sparkplug hole on a warm engine, let sit for a few days then start to free up stuck oil rings. longer it sits the better
I could see that. I know a guy who worked at the Vespa factory in Italy many years ago, and he said they would remove the air filters and drive the Vespas on a dusty dirt road in order to break in the engines.😯
Dave: why did you add 22 ounces of Ring Free to the fuel? It shows to use 1oz for every 10 gallons (not 1oz for every gallon) and for “shock”, 1 oz for every 5 gallons. Maybe I am reading the label incorrectly. Thanks for the interesting and informative videos you produce.
I'm editing this reply because I went back to look at the website recommendations. You're right, the maintenance treatment is 1 oz. per 10 gallons of gas (printed on the bottle). The shock treatment was not on the bottle I purchased, but on a Yamaha website, which actually did say 2 oz. per every gallon of gas. So the shock treatment really is 20 times the recommended routine treatment. Good catch! Thanks again for the input!
Im loving this series so far. I did the berrymans b12 treatment on my Girlfriend's Vw Tiguan. I seen other people do it on the 2.0 TSI. What I did different. I let the car idle for 15 minutes with the chemtool in the oil. Then i changed it. After that i ran another can in the fuel tank. And did a lot of hard driving. High rpm and load will also help unstick rings, in combination with a cleaner in the fuel. After about an hour of flogging it. The TSI is running better than it ever has. I will uodate on the oil consumption. Oil consumption was a quart every 800-1000 miles. If this doesnt work. Its probably the valve seals.
BG sells an engine flush kit that's really good stuff. I use it on a 13 escape with stuck oil rings and it fixed the oil consumption problem. It's crazy expensive, $300ish bucks but it cost a whole lot less than an engine.
DIY Dave,great videos. I love seeing how these chemicals are working for you. My 06 corolla has 192k miles and doesn't burn any oil. But my 2011 honda crv burns about 1 quart every 1200 miles (142k miles). I will be doing Berrymans chemtool before next oil change on that.
In my opinion your rings will stuck anyway if your oil is dripping from the valve cover/valve seals. First fix that and then try it. Really nice results with Yamalub!
I had a toyota prius with the same issue. The only thing that was able to reduce its consumption was the chem tool as well. I had hoped to solve the problem completely as I've always used synthetic oil and my oil burn off was nowhere near as bad as yours. Id lose about a QT per thousand miles. After treatment I lost about a 3rd of a qt every thousand miles lol.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY im thinking about trying the bg dynamic engine cleaner on it. Comes at a hefty price though. But I'm desperate. Hate buying oil like gas lol.
I have a 2003 camry with a 2azfe. I replaced the valve seals and it completely solved my oil burning problem. I know their are additives that claim to restore gaskets and oil leaks, maybe that would help
How about putting up the all previous batches pictures of piston top sides, taken by the scope, side by side for comparison. Date, time, milage and after what was added or done and etc etc. In this case, this Yamalube looks like worth putting into a tankful of gas plus into the crankcase, during my annual oil change, even just for cleaning up the piston top sides and the intake valves. 🤔🤔🤔. Regards
Thanks for the suggestion. When this whole thing is over, I might do a video like that and include some charts or something to show track the oil burning.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY BTW, would you suggest putting Yamalube lube into engine crankcase & into gas tank only at the last 500 miles before making the annual oil change?. This would instead of putting in during my annual oil change. Regards.
I love this series of investigations, I would really like to see the same concept applied to a high mileage Diesel Engine . So the challenges will be how do you add the Sea Foam or it's equivalent to the cylinder, via the glow plug or injector opening? This could be your next challenge, if so pick a high mileage VW Diesel Golf please, as I currently have the same issues, constantly topping up the oil. Any pointers most gratefully received.
Toyota recommends using a higher viscosit in oil, in engines prone to consumption, and it was in a service bulletin. That being said, I would recommend using a diesel oil that covers the SEA requirements for gasoline engines. Diesel oils have a significantly higher detergent component, designed to dissolve carbon and soot. This works on the oil control rings, such as the additives being tested, and results will be noticed over long-term use, not in a meer 1000 miles.
@sirdewd2197 Oils with dual SAE designation such as CL4 / SN, as an example. C is for compression ignition, and S is for spark. Therefore, SN can be used in gasoline engines with an SN or lower requirement such as SG, SL, and so forth.
Hi I am new to your channel. How is the Corolla doing? Have you checked the valve stem seals? I wonder if the oil on top of the pistons in getting there thru those seals.
Curious if the cat P 420 pending code is still there. As all the carbon from the motor passes through the catilytic converter is it being harmed in the " decarbonizing " process ? Thanks for sharing the adventure.
Good content Sealing rings are done.... the crude on your plugs, the top of pistons and continued loss of oil says it all. That is not a manufacturing issue and additives this late in game cant fix the issue. we',ve been yama lube using for many years. The fastest way to see a difference and if it works, use it in your gas weed eater that you premix. Watch how fast it cleans the over oiling. Terrific in the 250 Mercury XB However no product can substitute lack of maintenance. Many owners dont change oil for 10,000 miles and use the cheapest fuel that does not have any detergents. trying to save pennies or expecting a car to work perfect forever will never happen. Even tanks take 4 times maintenance then run time. Thanks again for content
At the 15:20 mark…where is the oil dripping down from the top coming from? Is it leftover from getting past the rings? Or seeping down from the top side somewhere?
That bg is good stuff. Unstopped a oil feed passage way to my last lifter. I had to do it every year but it worked. I installed new lifters and still had one tick from not getting oil. Bg fixed it.
It'd be interesting to see how the Yamalube in the oil will work. It's probably going to be a time consuming affair. I'm trying Auto-Rx in my 2012 Scion Xb right now. I m going to do a second application after 4000 miles.
@@charliegibb3908 You are supposed to put Auto-Rx into the crankcase. It is not for mixing in with fuel. Maybe you're confusing it for some other product??
My old Civic was burning oil. Nothing like this Corolla, but nothing like new either. I improved it significantly with nothing more than a few good old Italian tune ups.
Its your valves dripping oil down on top of the pistons. Run it and then immediately use the bore scope. Bet the piston look dry right after shut down. Also look at the cylinder walls. If the hash marks are gone your cylinders are toast. Ive noticed a huge difference between civic and corrolas. The honda motors as well as the rest of the car are just more refined and better built. I have both and the corrola is shot at 130k and the civic is running fine at 300k. The civic doesnt use a drop of oil in 9,000 miles between mobil one oil changes. The corrola already needed a radiator, the civic looks brand new inside. I could go on for hours on the quality difference. Oh and the civic is still on its first own set of irridium plugs at 300k and no miss and no loss of mpg.
Previous video: ua-cam.com/video/Y5RzFYMYaJI/v-deo.html
Oil burning experiments playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Valve steam seals. Need your help.
6:42 Putting 93 on a Corolla? 🤨
I subscribed exclusively for this series, have you tried using Lucas heavy duty stabilizer or Lucas + Stop leak? Good luck.
@@theguycanfly98 Thanks! I did use Lucas in a VTEC Accord and it shut down the VTEC. I also used Barrs Stop Leak several videos back in this series. The thing is, I don't want to plug any holes up with thickening additives and metal conditioners (e.g. a lot of viewers recommend Restore), I want to unclog and loosen things up with cleaners to see if we can get the engine working like it's supposed to. That's not to say we can, but I'd like to prove it one way or the other. Thanks for the sub and the comment!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I believe Lucas has a thinner full synthetic for low viscosity oil. Hear me out maybe add a little less than recommended of the lucas to thicken the oil a touch and maybe whatever cleaner you put in there will hold onto the rings better like the yamalube if you do another go as this cleaner. Just a thought, but I am highly invested in knowing if any of these will work, or if you finally just have to disassemble the motor and manually unstick the rings or get new rings.
I don't think your going after the problem you have.... I think it's the valve stem seals not the rings because you have oil on the top of the piston and the engine is blowing oil smoke out of it when you start the engine. The vacuum of the engine is pulling the oil through the the valve guides because the valve stems seals are probably rock hard and the guides may be loose (worn) too. You can put as much snake oil (oil additives) as you want in the engine it is not going to repair valve guide seals that are rock hard and no longer function or loose valve guides. You don't get deposits of oil on the top of the pistons like that with sticking rings because the pressure is forced down not up into the conbustion chamber you would get a ton of blowby. Try this to see if the rings are sealing, open the oil cap put a rubber glove over the hole where you add oil and seal it good. Rev the engine a bunch of times and see if the glove fills up. If it does fill a lot then you have blow by if not it's something else like what I mentioned above. My two cents from a technician of 45 years.
It went down a lot after the b12 treatment. But I think you're right, in the fact that the rest of the oil burning is from the valve seals.
I dont think hes ever going to fix that due to his car "still using oil" he can keep making content on it. would like to see if stem seals would fix this since the b12 helped heaps
His compression is around 240psi on all 4 cylinders. That’ll raise crank case pressure while the engine is running and push oil through the valve stem seals while at higher RPMs.
Smoking on initial start:
If you start the car from cold, and it starts to smoke after a couple of seconds and continues to smoke for a couple of minutes, then goes away, that usually means the the valve stem seals are bad.
If it would be piston rings then the smoke would not go away and would start smoking even more under load and also will smoke on a trailing throttle going downhill.
@@DirkOzsorry I know I am a Stan for diy Dave at this point, but I'll point out he has a whole 30 video playlist and he has already replaced the valve seals, and there is also a video where he has a camera on his exhaust for like 20 minutes. The smoke keeps coming out anytime he accelerates aggressively or goes up a hill.
Long time viewer, 1st time commenting
My 98 corolla had mass oil consumption almost a quart a week, driving hard about 75+ daily miles odometer at 187,xxx
Decided to use Amsoil Engine Flush one of its details says Helps loosen sticky valves and rings, minimizing blow-by and reducing emissions on top of reading reviews why not give it a shot
For $27 best product I’ve used with 1 use and great results
I still have the oil I flushed out and it was very dark with small crumbs it sure loosened allot in there and after driving nearly 200 miles under 3hrs oil was still golden and oil consumption was way down had me smiling only had to splash a wee bit oil about 100ml or so, before that trip would’ve been around 400-500ml of oil consumption also running a oil catch can to help prevent blow by into intake manifold
That's awesome. Please keep us posted on your usage! ... Anyone else interested in the Amsoil Flush, give LegitHP's comment a like!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think that you probably have an valve seal problem too. Anyway... Sometimes, drives it to the rev limiter, and let it hit there, a couple of times while ur using the products...
U aren't gonna fix this no matter what u put in it. U got leaking valve seals or something else
@@kwmiked These Corollas are known for having the piston ring issues so I think he's on the right track.
@@kwmiked He already did the valve stem seals dude.
Dave thank you for your great videos. Our 2018 Kia Sportage 2.4L GDI with 80K miles has been burning 1.5 quarts every 1000 miles. I performed your Chem Tool B-12 treatment and WOW 700 miles later zero oil consumption. Also the oil looks super clean, before the oil quickly turned black after an oil change. Keep up the great work my friend! 👍
Great to hear, and thanks for the update!!
The PCV residue will kill GDI engines about 150,000 miles. The valves coke up so badly they won't seat. Synthetic oil always changed by Kia dealer.
2019 Soul 1.6 stick shift.
And change your oil every 3k
That is definitely the cleanest the piston tops have ever looked thru. out the entire series, very interesting with the Yamalube! I agree with you about running with the Yamalube for awhile in gas & crankcase, but I know you are trying so hard to follow your same logic until the end, T.Y. so much a very watchful friend!!!
Thanks for the kind comment!!
I'm waiting for the episode where you try packing all the cylinders with black powder and light the fuse.. LoL
I said BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner would be the grand finale ... but now I'm reconsidering :-)
Wouldn’t that just add way more carbon? 😂
Perfect!
@@5roundsrapid263 😀👍
@@5roundsrapid263 Try modern smokeless powder, lol.
I discovered YLRF in 2006 with AMAZING results over & over again & again. From outboards, lawnmowers, chainsaws & ANY 2 or 4 stroke engine. It has cleaned dirty fuel systems in minutes, un-stuck stuck valves & piston rings, increased power & overall performance throughout all throttle ranges...I even add to the fuel in my 2007 Expedition several times a year. The stuff has proven itself to me & I am a believer!
Awesome video again! Following all the videos I remain at the conclusion worn piston rings. Even with a clean engine and cylinders it continues to burn oil. Also a tip, if you measure pressure in cylinders with so much oil in them, the pressure will probably be always just fine because the cylinders are so wet. The excess oil seals the cylinders. And BG products rock!
Shocked by Yamaha Ring Free. Those pistons look almost new. Not sure if it's the fuel additive or the combination of crankcase, but really surprised 😯
21:38 Dave. If you added one quart of the HPL EC (that's High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner) maybe even 40 weight engine oil instead of the 30. That would pretty much be the ultimate test of if the thicker viscosity (combined with their special formulation) helps slow or eliminate ???? consumption on high speed driving. I'd spent that $15 in a heartbeat. I really hope that sounds interesting to you. I see it is usually fresh oil. The HPL EC is actually formulated as an engine oil to not upset any of the additive packages that are in the other oil, the oil you are using is fine.. I too keep using 5W-30 I've been experimenting with 40 grade oils lately. The first number (the 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20 before the W) is "Winter" and has NOTHING to do with the second number, which is the API or SAE (brain fart) grade of the oil.
Whoever wants me to try HPL EC please give 82_KID's comment a like!!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY One of the reasons I mention it so much is that people don't really know the brand and they are some super good stuff. "Better" than AMSOIL!
I've used a similar product called Auto-RX after a BG EPR flush for a late oci (900miles over) sludged engine running synthetic blend from the dealer. The BG EPR alone did not stop the oil consumption and smoking, but the auto-rx seemed to start working after around 400 miles. Both Auto-RX and HPL EC are oil esters and work over a shorten oil change interval. I think their only downside is the micron size of the debris (reformation) and the need to at least change the oil filter at around 1000 miles.
I EPR Method: (1) Warm up the engine until the radiator fan blows 2-3 times. (2) Add BG EPR and run at idle for 20 minutes [remains active for 40 minutes.] (3) For the last 5 minutes cycle between idle and 2000 rpm. (4) Turn engine off and change oil/filter.
II Auto-RX Method: (1) {Cleaning Cycle} Add 12 oz of Auto-RX to a fresh oil and filter change. Use your normal weight oil (5w30), but make sure it is group III (Pennzoil Platinum.) (2) Drive 900-1200 miles (max 1500) under any driving conditions. Esters can continue to clean up to a year. (3) {Rinse Cycle} Change the oil (group III) and filter. Drive another 900-1200 miles (max 1500.) (4) For piston ring ("ring pack") cleaning repeat the cleaning and rinse cycles again.
My notes say to use 28.5oz of HPL and 4.45Qt (5qt system) for 16.67% concentration. (10-20%.) BITOG forum has a thread dedicated to HPL EC.
@@macready0230 Yes! I'm trying to convince him to give the HPL a shot lol! I had my chance, I accidentally deleted contact info so it is so hard to let that go.
@@82_KID Uhm, I've been shot down so many times I've lost count. I had a comment on using stihl decarbonizer deleted with no backup.
I love these Corollas maybe alittle too much. Local shop I worked at for years had a 1998 Corolla manual with a bad heater core and from then on it was love at first drive. (Fast forward 10 years) Now I run my own mechanic shop and I have a 1998 Corolla manual and a 2001 Corolla automatic for a loaner cars. Some people really don’t understand the beauty in simplicity of these cars.
I stumbled across your videos a couple months back trying to solve the oil burning issues. I tried the B12 chem tool for 48 hours, let it idle for 10min then changed the oil. And I’ve noticed a massive difference already! So I thank you for these videos. I get a lot of satisfaction from fixing these Corollas.
On my 2001 automatic Corolla (I just bought for $600) it has a bad rod bearing so I’ll be getting the satisfaction of finally rebuilding a 1zzfe and putting new pistons rings in it and let me tell you I can not freakin wait to take the pistons out of that thing.
I feel like you deserve the satisfaction of holding that piston in your hand.
Great testimony. Glad to hear it worked! ... and I might have the pistons out eventually, we'll see.
The Ring Free is good stuff. We sell it all the time. It’s kinda expensive though.
I tell people that buy it to use it in their old tired lawn mowers.
Use it at double strength right before you change oil. It will trash new oil when the gunk turns loose.
Another great job Dave right down to smelling your fumes and the cruisin' tunes! Top of those pistons look great. Every new episode I think... "I bet Dave never thought this corolla oil burning series would go this far down the rabbit hole." Yamalube is for sure doing something. Cheers till the next one!
Thanks 🐰
This has been a great series so far. When you decide to stop the experiments, replacing the pistons and rings with the engine in the car, it is relative simple repair.
Thanks. And if a chemical can't get us below a quart in 3000 miles, I plan on doing a re-ring video 👍👍
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was just thinking the same thing watching this video that as many times as you've pulled the spark plugs, changed the oil, and just generally messed around under the hood that you could have easily just swapped in some new rings. For the record, I'm pretty happy that you didn't choose the easy fix as this series is beyond fascinating!
@@bnations2000 Thanks ... and a teardown might still be in the future :-)
@@nat0radeno. Time, and it is invasive. But not hard. Need to understand what your doing and why your doing it though to ensure a good rebuild.
For a trained mechanic though, right? Even aside from the winch to remove the engine, the tools you need are pretty specialized (from the videos I’ve watched). I’d love to change the rings on my 2az fe, but I’m just getting started and it’s probably a couple years of consistent car work before I’d feel confident enough to pull and disassemble the engine.
This series ages like a fine wine.
Much appreciated!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY of course, but you know…the sooner you figure this out the sooner I can fix the oil burning issue in my wife’s car. ;)
If I've learned anything, it's that Dave has good taste in cruisin' music.
I agree with you. You'll likely clean those pistons almost completely. Compression has likely come up some; hence the power increase. However that oil tells me mechanical wear of rings and or bore. You've achieved a lot though.
I love this channel, cause of the experiments you do on the oil burning machine it’s the best!
Thank you!
Your doing us all a great service- sharing your findings. Thank you.
When you eventually tear down the engine I hope you measure how out of round the cylinders have gotten since new which could help explain things , cant wait for the next video and the tear down some day
If he had a borescope with a side camera he could inspect the cylinder walls and look for deformations/scratches/smooth spots.
Oh my lord... with all the experimental work you're exercising, I believe believe that either Toyota and /or many of the LUBRICANT companies owe you alot of FREE ENGINES AND PRAISE... I wanna personally thank you for the testing, patience, and hard work 💪, HERE'S TO YOU !!!
Much appreciated! :-)
I have a 99 Corolla and burn about 1 1/4 every 1000 miles. Still gonna try a B12 treatment and see if it fixes it. I'm also gonna run 0W-30 oil in it to see if that helps after the cleanup. Thanks for these vids Dave it helps a lot.
Thanks for the comment, and please let us know how it goes!
Johnny come lately here You can dump as much death in a can as you want its not going to add back the cross hatching that looks heavily worn gone and rings that are in need of replacement. You want a suggestion do a shade tree mech in frame , drop the pan remove the head and one piston at a time change the rings and ball hone the cylinder and throw it back together of course after you run out of death in a can idea's
That's such an asinine comment. You realize who's difficult it is to re-ring an engine for the average person? UA-cam master techs like you make me laugh
@@aKjohn8798Make no mind of my 16000 sq ft diesel repair shop I own I don't know nothing just another idiot
The sesame street gig brings back memories great videos keep it going.
That was one of my favorite parts of Sesame Street. That and the painter that always painted the numbers on the wrong thing 😄
Dave, a great study to show it cleans. I enjoyed your test study & as i progresses with your progress. You give great presentation on camera & easy going. always, Tommy🤠.
Much appreciated, Tommy!
Great experiment. Your vids keep getting better. Got to thank you again did the berry b12 to my 2014 Kia and now it's not burning any oil.
Great to hear!
Change your oil every 3k miles. That will help more than anything
@@jerbear7952 GDI are known for this even if you do 3k or 4k oil changes
I've had 2 of these engines. prizm and celica. I'd say 20w50 would be the best oil to use besides in winter temps below 20 degrees. I used straight 40 weight in my celica and it did help with oil consumption.
1zz-fe? Just wondering since I have an 04 vibe that’s burning oil slowly
As a professional mechanic, this is the stuff I wish I could do with customer cars. Unfortunately it's not feasible for obvious reasons.
Loving what you are finding out tho, along the way.
Hey bud, I wanted to give you some feedback. I recently purchased a fleet of MINI Bloopers from a customer. If you know Bloopers, mistakes were made, and they are notorious oil burners.
Well my BG service rep came by and offered me their engine Dynamic Restorer kit. I was skeptical, but he swore up and down its tried and true.
I watched some videos on UA-cam, and was pretty impressed with the results. So I decided to use it. I can tell you with 100% certainty it solved the oil consumption issues on two of my Bloopers. Only the third has bad valve stem seals and smokes after prolonged idle. The other two however, are not consuming oil at all. To the point where I'm not even checking the oil as frequently.
The stuff IS pricey (low 300's for a 4 item kit), but it's a lot more money to replace rings on an engine.
As a professional would you say that this stuff would be be safe or use at your own risk on an automotive four-cylinder engine? What potential harm would stuff cause on engine internals or the catalytic converter?
I think what you're seeing with the borescope is carbon deposits from the piston and rings sloughing off onto the cylinders. I think you need more Italian tune ups to really burn off the carbon that is slowly dissolving, especially if you do a lot of city driving short trips like I do. My car won't run right unless I do some hard pulls every few days. I have an idea for an atypical additive for freeing the rings, and that's motorkote. It's a metal binding lubricant that is really effective at reducing friction and freeing things up. It's possible a hyper lubricant could act as a way to unstick some sticky rings, but not so much for the drain back holes. Project farm did a really good video on motorkote with impressive results on friction. One last thing is EVAP problems are super intermittent, and often throw codes, then fix themselves.Can't wait to see the BGK video, and as always I'm enjoying the scientific process of this series!
Thanks for the suggestion!
Some DTCs require failing the internal tests on 2 consecutive trips to log as a current code. ALSO, for many manufacturers, the EVAP system test won't run if the fuel tank is too full or too empty. It might not run unless you do a cold start as well so while the chemicals might be helping the EVAP issues somehow, you might be chasing a red herring
Absolutely agree, the live data through the OBD would be a great comparison instead of relying on a single light that has a possible 500 causes
Hey Dave, I like your videos on the Corolla. I have a 98 RAV4 with 274,000. I was gonna tell you about the premium fuel, but somebody beat me to it. Premium fuel is less volatile than regular made for engines built with tighter tolerances so they need less of an explosion in the combustion chamber. Thanks.
I searched the Yamalube ring free, the cheapest I found (on September 18 2023) is $20.00 for 12 oz on the bay. ... by the way, your spark plugs come out of the engine so often they should have wing-nuts lol
Hello Dave, I have been following along with your Oil Burning series as I have an oil burning Honda Element. I posted a comment on video eleven. My efforts included Seafoam, which de-sludged my engine, Toyota engine cleaner, noticed no difference. I tried a product my neighbour recommended, he works for a GM dealer, AC Delco engine oil supplement. This product is not marketed as a engine ring cleaner but as a engine rebuilding lubricant and I noticed a difference immediately in the level of noise the engine made and my oil consumption. After 3 treatments following the instructions on the bottle oil consumption was cut in half. I then tried what might turn out to be the most successful product yet, Castrol GTX Ultraclean 5W-30 synthetic engine oil! Boy did this stuff turn black fast. After 1500 miles I changed the oil and filter and repeat. 1500 miles later again changed the oil and filter. The oil was again black but the oil consumption was noticeably less. Now on my third Castrol GTX Ultraclean oil change, the oil has not changed color and consumption is way down. I will update this comment in a couple of months as not enough time/miles have been driven. Car idles/runs better than ever though. You may want to try a oil that is marketed to clean engines rather than a additive that cleans engines in a future test. The oil is in the engine longer. I must say I was impressed with the Yamalube ring free plus product. Thank you for posting these videos.
That’s awesome, and thanks for the suggestion!
Update?
We have continued to use the Castrol Ultraclean in our Honda Element. The engine is now consuming about a quart every 450 miles however the color of the oil remains transparent a lot longer. Oil consumption has gotten worse but highway speeds tend to consume more oil as Dave has mentioned. I'm going to try a Yamaha ring free treatment next@@Tate.TopG.
@buckhorn2007 Thanks a lot for the updates. I have a tacoma 2.7L, and it's consuming quite a bit of oil before I reach the 3000 miles . I may have to try your method 😉
AC Delco Engine Top Treatment stopped my 2007 Camry's oil consumption completely. I now change oil very 5000 miles and still have 1/4 of oil left from the bottom dot on the stick. It used to burn a quart every 500 miles. The problem was the leaky valve stem seal on cylinder 3, and I had all the seals replaced before doing the AC Delco treatment.
I like this channel as you can see which products work, which others may help but dont fix it, i want to see if you can try the bg dynamic cleaner treatment, that one is expensive but puts stress on the engine to let the product work, but if those dont work you can conclude worn rings, block or oil seals.but the journey of this channel saves tons of money to everybody, thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Wow!!! That is one clean piston! looks like Yamalube did a great job removing the carbon deposits on top of the pistons. Also your compression tests have improved. I'm thinking of trying this out see if it will do the same for my MK5 GTI. Thanks!
I'm still wondering why you're burning oil though. It should be sealing now since the rings may have been cleaned.
He didn't show the before in the video? Or am I not seeing it?
Wow that really cleaned the pistons.
hi mate. i d check the pvc valve..if it s stuck it will create pression which will force the oil between the cylinder sleeve and piston rings.
Dave Can not wait to see the bg109 test just alittle heads up , the bg 109 is ( Heat Activated) make sure you are at operating temperature. and at 2,000 rpm for 20 min. I have used this on my own car and 3 of my nephews and one nieces car and it worked.
Thanks for the advice, JimBob 👍
New here...i dunno all you have tried or done. But the first things I look and address with oil burning is to clean or replace the PCV valve then put a catch can inline between the PCV and the intake manifold. Also add a catch can inline on the breather side. It would help monitor how much oil is being drawn thru those sources. Judging by the straight oil in the cylinders its likely coming thru those sources vs the rings going off the strong compression numbers.
Love this ongoing experiment! Keep on please.
Thanks, thats the plan! ... or at least until it's fixed. :-)
My thought is try a catch can to see it you are battling two issues I have been using ring free in the gas for all my water craft and small engines for 10 year I can say starting them never been easer and I don`t have to use combustion cleaner in the two strokes and more.
I want to see the tear down of this engine :)
Have you considered some valve guide seals. Also, consider a thorough inspection of the PCV system...the valve cover is also an air-oil separator. If clogged in just the right way, the engine oil vapors will get pushed past the piston rings due to clogged pcv. I'm just curious if that pcv valve, or some of the chambers inside the valve cover.
You need to turn the gas cap and listen for 6 or so clicks. Not sure what the manufacturer recommends but that's how I do it. You tighten up the gas cap and it just stops you need to do some more to hear the clicks. Much better seal for the EVAP system.
Hey Dave I ending putting a new engine in today unfortunately with my previous engine lost compression in number 2 cylinder from a broken compression ring. Keep the great videos coming sir!
Aw man. Thank you, and I hope you get a lot of life out of your new engine.
Well it definitely looks like the Yamalube Ring Free did something. It seems like it would be worth changing the oil every 1000 miles and continuing to adi the Yamalube to the fresh clean oil and gas. Really good videos Dave! Thanks for sharing. 😁👍🤞
You're right. If I wasn't making videos, I'd probably do just that-- or something similar.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY surely every chemical is helping clean the engine, though yamalube definitely has made a difference. To clean the oil rings I believe its necessary to treat the engine from the crankcase over time. I've used liquid moly oil flush also Wynns oil flush on the last 2 1000 mile oil changes. The last time with Wynns oil flush however rather than letting the car idle I waited until temps were up then I drove it hard for about 30 miles, the oil came out like out of a diesel engine. Its a vw 1.6 petrol, tohc 16v vvt. I've had it with different mechanics to try to get it running better but so far no-one can fix it. The only improvements were from spraying water mist into the throttle valve plus fuel and oil cleaners. It didn't burn a lot of oil like yours however compression is only 100psi on 3 cylinders and cylinder 3 had only about 85psi, that was a few months ago before all the flushing, I think its time to do another compression test to see if that has improved or not. This engine has 120k miles plus looks like it's been deprived of normal service intervals. The 2 common fault codes I get are Lambda 1 outside parameters and knock sensor. I have replaced knock and MAP sensor, on live diagnostic lambda sensor is working fine, except it is intermittent when driving or maybe a broken wire, I think replacing lambda sensor is my next move. When I bought the car it was knocking and pinging so bad I had to ease off on the gas to save the engine from wrecking itself, I though big ends were going out was so bad. Both cats have been removed by previous owners.. with the cleaning there's now no problems with knocking but I'm still getting the same 2 codes lambda plus knock sensor.
To make a long story short I think it's important to keep a engine very clean, even though we have failed to fix the real fault code cleaning has left the car driveable, I am considering constantly running the oil with pre change flush as I think it takes a lot of time to dissolve the built up carbon and a lot of oil changes to carry the carbon away, obviously any chemical treatment will weaken as it works so I think it's takes a lot longer and regular drains with cleaning chemicals refreshed often for any chance to unstick dirty oil rings. I've seen one guy bench soak testing many different chemicals like seafome, lucas, etc on old removed pistons with stuck carboned up rings. The most effective Chem was white vinegar. I know this sounds crazy but I think if you were to drain the engine, remove spark plugs, and then fill it up to the neck, I mean until it runs out of spark plugs, rocker cover etc. with white vinegar then carefully and slowly turning the engine over by hand brace at 6 hour intervals as you did, but over a few days, then drain out the vinegar and replace with oil, I would suggest a double oil change to rinse out the vinegar and be sure full lubrication is back throughout the engine before restarting it, probably better not even start the engine on first oil change, just crank it without plugs or fuel. This would be an interesting project. My point is white vinegar releases stuck oil rings better than all the other expensive chemicals I've seen sofar, however how do you get it to the oil rings to soak without dismantling the engine. I think it would take a couple of gallon of strong vinegar, I've no idea if it would have any negative effects on seals or gaskets etc but my guess it would stop any oil residue protection from the shell berrings so no way could you run the engine or even think about it until the vinegar was well flushed out..
@@martinmuldoon603 Thanks for the suggestion, Martin. I watched the vinegar video (I think it was This Old Tony?) but he said it only worked on the rings because they were stuck with rust, and that he didn't think it would work on combustion byproducts.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY where is the before photos of the pistons?
@@wazup3333 previous videos
I believe you added about 10 times more Yamalube into your gas tank than the directions suggested......but hey what a great job it did! Hope you try an Amsoil engine flush at some point and Amsoil PI Performance Improver in your gas tank. Btw....Fantastic vids Dave! Enjoying the journey......
Thanks for the suggestion!
I thought I was the only one who caught that
Copied from the website he referenced: SHOCK TREATMENT: 2 oz./gal. CONSTANT TREATMENT: 1 oz./10 gals.
Maybe remind us all you’ve done the valve stem seals at the beginning of each episode. Curious if it still pings on regular with the carbon mostly gone. Looking forward to the final chapter where you replace the pistons and rings with updated parts! Fun series.
I hadn't thought about the carbon contributing to the knocking. You're right. Maybe I'll try 87 next time to see if it's cleared up.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was going to say the same thing this guy did because any hot spots on a piston due to carbon buildup will see less issues on super
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think you could do with a new set of plugs or at least a good clean should help to run at its best, I don't claim it will help oil burning.
That's really high cranking compression for regular gas.
@@hotrodray6802 Even with the high 10:1 compression ratio and effectively a wet test with all the oil in the cylinders I’d still only expect 180 or so. 240 is a head scratcher unless there’s really that much carbon in the combustion chamber we can’t see.
Check the evap purge valve in the engine bay. Incorrect purge flow is caused by a leaking purge valve allow intake manifold vacuum to pull fuel vapor into the engine. Very noticeable after fueling up. Hopefully that check helps.
Was about to suggest, based on the loopy idle could be a vacuum leak or intake leak. The stall after fueling makes me assume that purge is stuck open.
Try this one. ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-3015 Engine Cylinder/Combustion Chamber Cleaner - 32 oz
Thanks for the suggestion!
I haven't been following all of your videos, but the P0441 is usually super easy to diagnose. unplug the purge solenoid electrical connector and the cannister side vacuum hose. Start the car, if you feel vacuum at the solenoid nipple, the solenoid has failed open.
I'm very curios to see how your engine flush with BG EPR will work for you. I did it on my Volvo and we went from a liter every 1000 miles to less than a liter in 4500 before the next oil change
I tried BG EPR (Bg109) with my Gen 3 Prius before an oil change. No change of the oil consumption rate after the treatment.
Dave, first off all thanks for all your great videos on oil burning… man you are persistent and with patience with that car. I do wanna see your results with the BG treatment, i already did that and this is my story: 2013 sonata gls, known for burning oil. It has the issue since 55k and now has 96k, i did a lot of stuff trying to fix the issue but no success. I did your method with Barryman and i soaked the rings for 3 days and cranking twice a day and adding 1oz in every cylinder after crank. Car barely started after that. When I started and got warm i added the entire can of BG and run it for 25 min at 2250rmp. In a meantime i installed oil catch can and switch from mobil 1 full synthetic to Valvoline for the first time ever. The car used to burn 1qtr every 700-800 miles. Now after 860 miles not even single drop is burned and the oil look’s crystal clear. I can not even believe it got fixed. Waiting to see your experience. Good luck from NJ
That's great to hear! Hopefully I'll see some results too. 👍
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY here is my update after more than a month: was checking every 800 miles how the engines performs, at 2400 miles no oil burned and dipstick level is to the top dot.
At 3400 1gtr of oil is gone and the level is now at the bottom dot. I added 1qtr and i will be checking the level at 4K miles, now im wondering what happened so no oil was burned and what changed in those 1000 miles between 2400-3400 so 1gtr is missing??? From what i see online, someone was doing the same thing and after the flush he changed the oil and the filter, drive it for another 30 min and change the oil and filter again so it flushes the rest of chemicals. I will try this and see how it goes. I was happy for a month or so that all is good but now back to square 1 and keep trying to see what is happening. Did your oil consumption changed from 900 miles/ 1gtr?
I waited up till 2am just in case you uploaded a piston ring vid update tonight (this morning?) and I am glad i did
Much appreciated, Nick!!
I wonder if soaking some Berryman chem dip in the cylinders would free them, I’ve seen how that stuff just melts away carbon and dirt and I wonder if since it soaks down it would just clean those rings right up. Or maybe later try some bg dynamic engine cleaner oil, stuff is pretty expensive, around 200$ but I’ve seen videos show how it cleans engines up really nice.
This product has worked well for me before ... i am now using amsoil with very good results 🍻
Good info. Thanks, Eric.
Nice Lizard on the wiper blade. Nice to see that it cleaned the top of the pistons. Man you sure like to splurge by buying premium gas. Noted that it was only $3.51 /gal. Nice , Here in Michigan right now it is $3.59 for the Regular 87 octane , Premium i think is $0.60 higher or more. Anyway, the car was design to burn regular 87 and that is all i ever use , And now at 219k miles on 99 Rolla with automatic trans I still get 33MPG like i did yesterday after driving 260 miles . Where did you get the Yamalube ? i like to try it in my car. Thanks.
Thanks. I bought the Yamalube on Amazon. ... I wish I could use 87, but I get some predetonation unless I use premium.
I think you should consider usign multiple times Liqui Moly engine flush pro line in the oil when the engine is hot for 12-15 minutes and then change the oil, this stuf is top level in Europe. If you want to you should definitly use Tec 2000 engine flush (30ml) in each of the cilinders as and extra step and let it go through the piston ring to the oil, then change the oil. Next crank the engine without the sparkplugs to remove the rest of that Tec 2000 from the piston tops, reinstall sparkplugs and go for a nice "Italian tune-up" aka. drive the car hard with high RPM ;)
i used LM engine flush and it did nothing... still burning 1L/500km on my 07 avensis 2.4L 2AZFSE
Great and informative video, very good cleaning on the pistons from the Yamalube ring free treatment 😊👍 Looking forward for the BG treatment, I'm very curious on that.
Thanks for the video. You really shouldn't be using premium gas. Higher octane only helps if you have higher compression ratios and it will actually lead to un-burned fuel being pushed into the crank case. The Yamalube looks like it did a great job. I think you have the right idea to run the Yamalube for longer. Looking forward to the BG. Great series. By the way, a time laps of the bore scope would be nice and a chart showing oil consumption vs mileage (and notes on highway mileage) would be nice too. (I know, it's a lot to ask but going forward maybe?) Have a great one.
Thanks for the input Bruce! ... I'd love to do the charts and stuff (like Project Farm). Maybe I'll have time at the end of the series to have a follow-up with info like that in it. … oh and I get pre-detonation if I use lower octane fuel.
Just as an aside, though this is heavily bound on the fuel market for your area, using premium fuel is one of the few ways to get guaranteed ethanol-free in large density metro areas to folks who are concerned about mandated ethanol use. You're spot on about not seeing any performance difference on normal engines though. In our area of the DFW metroplex for example, almost all stations have gone to running a 10% ethanol blend even in regular 'ol 87 for emissions, but so far as engine durability and the requiescence of subsystems (fuel lines, seals, etc), the ethanol blends are most certainly a detriment to be avoided if you can. A properly maintained engine will burn cleaner and pollute less than having ethanol forced upon one self, but that's a rather slim slice of the market these days.
06 sienna rips tires from 1st into 2nd almost into 3rd when i ask it to. 196700 miles. Go beat your motor a little.
Higher octanes shouldn't have that effect, most of what higher octane does is be more likely to burn when sparked and not pre-ignite/knock. It's necessary for high compression ratios due to the compression ratios making pre-ignition more likely, but should pose no harm when used in an engine designed to handle lower octane fuels. It won't net you any performance out of it, but if you have an engine that has a history of trouble, it can only help to run high octane fuel through it to at least see if it runs any differently, if not just to err on the side of caution while doing other maintanence things to try to bring it back to health.
In a high mileage engines with sufficient carbon build up, the compression ratio might naturally become higher. But with knock sensors and whatnot, yes, the ECU will retard timing to prevent knocking on low octane fuel.
This brings me back to pouring a quart of oil each week in my Prius when I was driving 100 miles a day. I tried a lot of treatments but ended up putting a junkyard engine in that cost me $400.
Have you considered "Stiction Eliminator" oil additive by Hot Shot's Secret? The diesel guys rave about it breaking up sticky engine sludge and ending smokey starts. Can be used on gas engines too.
Not yet. Thanks for the recommendation.
I’m from Greenville too I drive I-85 everyday to work and back, it’s nice to see a local UA-camr from this area
Hey neighbor :-)
I had an 88' Nissan Pulsar NX. 1.6L L4 E16 Beautiful engine.
I used to run 1 pint of KleenStrip acetone per fill up in gas tank (11 gals).
It dumbed down the octane, promoted a higher conflagration rate, very clean exhaust.
I deleted the Catalytic converter, replaced with a silver painted Thrush glass pack, then a regular muffler. It was quiet and smokeless. The acetone helps everything to burn up.
It would keep the plugs clean, rings sharp. The 88' E16 is very snappy, like a chainsaw!
That's awesome! Unfortunately my test have faltered abit getting a new engine for the rav. 4k later will give updates soon!
Looking better all the time! Great data that your giving thank you for that.
Thanks for watching, Rod!
The cylinder walls are like glass. Its probably going to consume oil even with perfect rings. I had the same issue with yamaha yzf1000. If fuel has washed the walls and they are polished. Oil consumption is constant. It would need a honing job to get the grosshatch back. But freeing piston rings can still lower the consumption.
Video 4 of suggesting Kreen for a piston soak and engine cleaning!
:-) ... If y'all want to see a Kreen soak, please like Kenneth's comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY If you think you still have stuck rings, then isn't soaking them for days upon days, from the top down, make sense? Maybe drain out the oil, add cleaner to the top of the piston, let it drain through and even reuse the cleaner that comes out of the oil pan that has no oil in it? Repeated soakings for days? Check BDC and TDC drain rates? Maybe try to push the piston near TFC, into the sidewalls, with a wooden dowel it you're brave enough, to try and break those rings free from the gunk and varnish from excessive heat that 4 cylinders usually run at?
Or do you just want to keep making videos for money or the attention or disproving engine cleaners?
Have you added oil to the cylinder after first compression check and checking again. That’s how we used to check rings when j was a kid. The other method is a regulated air compression leak down test. Those are used commonly on aircraft engines to assess ring wear and effectiveness.
I have heard pretty good results with the Amzoil Signature series too so I may try that if the Auto-Rx doesn't pan out.
Have you checked or changed the pcv valve? Have you done a compression test to check how the cylinders are sealing? Both of those things would be on my list of first things to do with an oil burning problem. If the vehicle has high miles and is just likely worn there isn't much you can do except use thicker oil. Use like a high mileage oil that is thicker. Go to like a 10w 30 and see how it does.
Watch the rest of his videos in this series, he's done some fairly thorough testing so far.
26:39 I'm not gonna lie, that BG 109 (a.k.a. BG44K EPR or Engine Performance Restoration, model part number BG109 I believe that's the one from the video I linked you also) .... is good stuff.
You're unloading the big guns now. I would love to see the HPL take on your engine.. I also want your engine to not burn oil. LOL
i have a 2001 crolla that burnt oil, i ran a quart of atf through the engine and drove it super hard (im talking evey other shift a limiter shift) came back and drained the oil it was super dark, then added new oil + filter with a lil liquimoly so far 3k miles and not a single drop of oil lost
Thanks for the input!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY ya no problem i love your series i know the only real way to stop the consumption is to rebuild the engine but part of me wants you to keep making these videos because they are so entertaining/informative
Been using used ATF before oil changes on Friends and Family vehicles since the 90's; a practice my uncle had been doing for many years before that. What's cheaper than used ATF, right? Works great in my experience.
Firm believer in Yamalube oils, used the brand for many years. If you dont mind smoke the old school method in a cattle syringe 10-30cc of diesel poured in each sparkplug hole on a warm engine, let sit for a few days then start to free up stuck oil rings. longer it sits the better
Old school of over 60 years ago would use bon ami cleanser to reseat rings to prevent blow by and get better compression
I could see that. I know a guy who worked at the Vespa factory in Italy many years ago, and he said they would remove the air filters and drive the Vespas on a dusty dirt road in order to break in the engines.😯
Thank you for this video. You have proven conclusively that these products can have an effect.
Thanks for the kind comments!
Dave: why did you add 22 ounces of Ring Free to the fuel? It shows to use 1oz for every 10 gallons (not 1oz for every gallon) and for “shock”, 1 oz for every 5 gallons. Maybe I am reading the label incorrectly. Thanks for the interesting and informative videos you produce.
I'm editing this reply because I went back to look at the website recommendations. You're right, the maintenance treatment is 1 oz. per 10 gallons of gas (printed on the bottle). The shock treatment was not on the bottle I purchased, but on a Yamaha website, which actually did say 2 oz. per every gallon of gas. So the shock treatment really is 20 times the recommended routine treatment. Good catch! Thanks again for the input!
😂....now we know how much yamalube cleans pistons.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks for clearing that up and doing some research on the shock treatment. I look forward to results of the next product.
Im loving this series so far. I did the berrymans b12 treatment on my Girlfriend's Vw Tiguan. I seen other people do it on the 2.0 TSI. What I did different. I let the car idle for 15 minutes with the chemtool in the oil. Then i changed it. After that i ran another can in the fuel tank. And did a lot of hard driving. High rpm and load will also help unstick rings, in combination with a cleaner in the fuel. After about an hour of flogging it. The TSI is running better than it ever has. I will uodate on the oil consumption. Oil consumption was a quart every 800-1000 miles. If this doesnt work. Its probably the valve seals.
Thanks! and yes, please do update :-)
BG sells an engine flush kit that's really good stuff. I use it on a 13 escape with stuck oil rings and it fixed the oil consumption problem. It's crazy expensive, $300ish bucks but it cost a whole lot less than an engine.
I’ve seen this kit advertised. Very hard to come by - especially in the UK!
That'll be the grand finale if nothing else works!
Use Berrymans chem dip! The carburetor parts cleaner. Just make sure to vacuum it all out and change the oil before starting
DIY Dave,great videos. I love seeing how these chemicals are working for you. My 06 corolla has 192k miles and doesn't burn any oil. But my 2011 honda crv burns about 1 quart every 1200 miles (142k miles). I will be doing Berrymans chemtool before next oil change on that.
Thanks, Joseph. And please let us know how it goes!
In my opinion your rings will stuck anyway if your oil is dripping from the valve cover/valve seals.
First fix that and then try it.
Really nice results with Yamalub!
I had a toyota prius with the same issue. The only thing that was able to reduce its consumption was the chem tool as well. I had hoped to solve the problem completely as I've always used synthetic oil and my oil burn off was nowhere near as bad as yours. Id lose about a QT per thousand miles. After treatment I lost about a 3rd of a qt every thousand miles lol.
Glad to hear you saw some results with B12!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY im thinking about trying the bg dynamic engine cleaner on it. Comes at a hefty price though. But I'm desperate. Hate buying oil like gas lol.
I have a 2003 camry with a 2azfe. I replaced the valve seals and it completely solved my oil burning problem. I know their are additives that claim to restore gaskets and oil leaks, maybe that would help
How about putting up the all previous batches pictures of piston top sides, taken by the scope, side by side for comparison. Date, time, milage and after what was added or done and etc etc.
In this case, this Yamalube looks like worth putting into a tankful of gas plus into the crankcase, during my annual oil change, even just for cleaning up the piston top sides and the intake valves. 🤔🤔🤔. Regards
Thanks for the suggestion. When this whole thing is over, I might do a video like that and include some charts or something to show track the oil burning.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY BTW, would you suggest putting Yamalube lube into engine crankcase & into gas tank only at the last 500 miles before making the annual oil change?. This would instead of putting in during my annual oil change. Regards.
I love this series of investigations, I would really like to see the same concept applied to a high mileage Diesel Engine . So the challenges will be how do you add the Sea Foam or it's equivalent to the cylinder, via the glow plug or injector opening?
This could be your next challenge, if so pick a high mileage VW Diesel Golf please, as I currently have the same issues, constantly topping up the oil.
Any pointers most gratefully received.
Toyota recommends using a higher viscosit in oil, in engines prone to consumption, and it was in a service bulletin. That being said, I would recommend using a diesel oil that covers the SEA requirements for gasoline engines. Diesel oils have a significantly higher detergent component, designed to dissolve carbon and soot. This works on the oil control rings, such as the additives being tested, and results will be noticed over long-term use, not in a meer 1000 miles.
Diesel oil that’s good for cats? Which one is that??
@sirdewd2197 Oils with dual SAE designation such as CL4 / SN, as an example. C is for compression ignition, and S is for spark. Therefore, SN can be used in gasoline engines with an SN or lower requirement such as SG, SL, and so forth.
i would not use that heavy of oil unless u wanna overheat ur engine
@@lexi-conby obviously you have little knowledge about oil, as viscosity wasn't even mentioned.
Hi
I am new to your channel. How is the Corolla doing? Have you checked the valve stem seals? I wonder if the oil on top of the pistons in getting there thru those seals.
Curious if the cat P 420 pending code is still there. As all the carbon from the motor passes through the catilytic converter is it being harmed in the " decarbonizing " process ? Thanks for sharing the adventure.
Might be I got experience with seafoam intake service totally kill my cat
The long time oil burning is most likely what damaged the cat.
Good content
Sealing rings are done.... the crude on your plugs, the top of pistons and continued loss of oil says it all. That is not a manufacturing issue and additives this late in game cant fix the issue.
we',ve been yama lube using for many years.
The fastest way to see a difference and if it works, use it in your gas weed eater that you premix. Watch how fast it cleans the over oiling.
Terrific in the 250 Mercury XB
However no product can substitute lack of maintenance. Many owners dont change oil for 10,000 miles and use the cheapest fuel that does not have any detergents. trying to save pennies or expecting a car to work perfect forever will never happen. Even tanks take 4 times maintenance then run time.
Thanks again for content
At the 15:20 mark…where is the oil dripping down from the top coming from? Is it leftover from getting past the rings? Or seeping down from the top side somewhere?
I think it's leftover from the rings. The top-end has been pretty well sealed. New valve-stem oil seals and valve-cover/spark plug gaskets.
That bg is good stuff. Unstopped a oil feed passage way to my last lifter. I had to do it every year but it worked. I installed new lifters and still had one tick from not getting oil. Bg fixed it.
I'd like to see the Berrymans process but use straight lacquer thinner instead.
I was actually thinking about that very same thing today when I was driving around. 🤔
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Scotty Kilmer dumps a gallon of lacquer thinner into 10 gallons of gasoline, drives 150 miles to clean stuff up.
@0:10 SQUIRREL!!!😁
Mike in San Diego.🌞🎸🚀🖖
Out of curiosity, what is your oil change interval? Also, what type of oil are you using?
That Corolla ?😅 As far as I know that one oil change every 1 k mile .
@@maungmaung4037 before the symptoms (obviously) 🙄 .
I haven't been to Greenville in a while, but I recognized it in your video. Lots of changes since I was there in the mid 80s.
Crazy amount of changes!! Thanks for watching :-)
It'd be interesting to see how the Yamalube in the oil will work. It's probably going to be a time consuming affair.
I'm trying Auto-Rx in my 2012 Scion Xb right now. I m going to do a second application after 4000 miles.
Why are you putting it in the oil when it doesn't say too, asking for a friend?
@@charliegibb3908 You are supposed to put Auto-Rx into the crankcase. It is not for mixing in with fuel. Maybe you're confusing it for some other product??
Yamalube does not go in the crankcase.
My old Civic was burning oil. Nothing like this Corolla, but nothing like new either. I improved it significantly with nothing more than a few good old Italian tune ups.
I'm so invested in this, i have a the same problems
Hopefully we'll find the silver bullet.
Bg epr stop my consumption use to burn 1 quart every 500 miles now 1/4 between oil changes only using pennzoil natrual gas oil
Its your valves dripping oil down on top of the pistons. Run it and then immediately use the bore scope. Bet the piston look dry right after shut down. Also look at the cylinder walls. If the hash marks are gone your cylinders are toast.
Ive noticed a huge difference between civic and corrolas. The honda motors as well as the rest of the car are just more refined and better built. I have both and the corrola is shot at 130k and the civic is running fine at 300k. The civic doesnt use a drop of oil in 9,000 miles between mobil one oil changes. The corrola already needed a radiator, the civic looks brand new inside. I could go on for hours on the quality difference. Oh and the civic is still on its first own set of irridium plugs at 300k and no miss and no loss of mpg.