Omg yes, the Marvel Mystery Oil is a slow cleaner it's a very good cleaner but it's very slow and this cleaner is a very fast strong industrial cleaner so you can't compare the two Marvel Mystery Oil would be the better bet for a long-term slow cleaning
@@FordBossMe imo marvel mystery oil would be good for preventing buildup on old engines but in terms of really cleaning the engine bg is the only way to go if you want immediate quantifiable results.
@@FordBossMe Right on! MMO is good stuff, but it does take time to work. It took four oil changes with MMO before the sticking hydraulic lifters freed up completely on the old 90 Mazda MPV 4x4. But man, that engine was quiet once MMO did its job, no more loud ticking! Didn't know BG offered this kind of engine cleaner, but now I have an option to clean the engines quicker when needed. Thanks!
Pro tip from a seasoned youtuber.....try it with a camera and see if you remember everything to do and juggle a camera I know but but you can't focus on every time you detail when you get rolling
I use BG products, the EPR is a great flush, smells nice, but most importantly works. Using it on an old sports car it freed up piston rings and increased compression by an average of 15% per cylinder. The car drove so much better afterwards, but probably suited to vehicles with 100k miles or more IMO.
Cleaned motor out nicely. I was stunned last night when reverse went out in your truck. I think the tranny was upset the motor got all the attention. 😄 I ran MOA in my trucks since 04. BG products is really good stuff. Not surprising since it was developed for the race car industry. 🙂🐶
That trans won't pump to the cooler if in park. Must run it in neutral if running it for any length of time like you did or it will burn up. Learned that myself of a customers truck. This is why you check the atf in neutral and not park on this era and older dodges
So, I stopped watching when he showed the oil on his finger. And reading what you said is reasonable doubt...I won't watch the rest of this video alone.... I'm going to save this for the shop to watch with me... what lube techs do to make a living is what I see as a title.
You can run the FL-1A for a larger filter and higher oil capacity. Same thing with all LA small block mopars. I run that size on my 99 318 and the 340 in my roadrunner. Fram ultra synthetic is XG8A, Purolator Boss PBL30001,Wix 51515. Increases capacity by half a quart and the filter holds alot more. The plenum is a fun one, I suggest you get the aluminum plate to replace the stamped steel one. Big upgrade. As for the trans, check the reverse accumulator piston. They are a cast aluminum and are known to crack or break. Even more so if you tow or plow with the trucks. Mine came out in pieces when my reverse let go. It completely disengaged the reverse band. A local transmission shop had billet ones in stock as an upgraded part and I was back on the road. Love the videos, and I love the series on this dodge truck. My 99 was neglected on oil changes when I got it too. I have been running full synthetic oil for the last 50k miles and have been using marvel off and on with those changes. I was glad to see your results, it gives me faith in what I've been doing!
I just bought a 2003 Dodge Durango slt 5.9 that's 2wd. The trans when placed in drive locks in 3rd gear. You can manually shift into second but not first. Reverse works. The Durango looks really good inside and out runs really good. Any ideas on the transmission issues?
@Daniel finney If I had to take a guess, governor pressure transducer and the governor pressure solenoid. Usually when one stops working the other is not far behind it. The previous owner of my truck had a similar issue, and that is what he said was the issue. Bring it to a reputable transmission shop and have them check it out! Good luck and keep that Mopar on the road
@@danielfinney4295 《☆》Gunk makes a transmission additive called Trasmedic Shift improver👍✔It's worth a try. It made the 2nd to 3rd shift delay go away on my 98 Dakota. Autozone sells it🖖🤓🙏☮
If it's not one thing, it's another...hopefully the transmission parts can be readily found. The inside of that engine cleaned up well, those before and after views of the valve train really show how much gunk was cleared out and loosened up! I will be looking into trying out this BG product on a used vehicle my brother has purchased recently. It'll be the first time I use this stuff, but I have no worries since I know you have used it. Thanks again for your work!
I know this is an older video but the diesel oil will do a lot of cleaning over a short time to an older engine like this. I had an 85 Ford 300 since new and the first oil change to the last was Rotella 15w- 40. They didn't have 5w-40 t6 back then otherwise I would have used that. At 50k i pulled the valve cover to replace the cork gasket and the top end of that engine looked like it had never been started. Pulled engine around 2000 @ 150 k replaced all gaskets and seals and installed it in a clean southern truck. Engine still looked brand new absolutely no varnish or sludge. Just a bit of brown on the bottom of the pistons. Lost track of it at about 200k but new guy followed same routine as i did and never had a problem. Great oil and engine
I'm a fan of this Dodge garage series you got going on! Keep the videos coming. That really stinks the transmission pooped. Looking forward to that video as well(great time to be proactive and upgrade the pan and switch to a large external cooler if it doesn't have one already)
I've been away for a few days and was surprised how bad your eye still is. Thank God the shrapnel didn't hit you a half inch higher, that would be permanent. Live and learn, glad you're healing well.
Thank you for sharing the things that you used very grateful. I'm glad that you look for things that work best. You're not name-dropping on companies because they are paying you. You're doing it because they're the ones that work the best. From experience.
I use it for alignments brake lamp checks throttle pedal holding positions. Tons of ways to use a baton style hood prop. Pry bars work great but there are so many length differences between brands that sometimes it just doesn't work. Obviously it does in this particular situation and many others. Just trying to help everyone out
Thanks for the video! BG makes great stuff. Like the color of your truck. I could see it being used like in some type of retro Road Warrior movie. Nice orange toolbox in the background. Sorry about your eye injury. 👍
Can't kill a 5.2! Couple tips. Replace the o2 sensors with ATK sensors for better gas mileage. Most of the transmission issues on the 42-46RE are the two bands out of adjustment and the solenoids in the trans(You can upgrade the solenoids to the diesel ones for firmer shifts). The accumulator spring is broken in half on 90% of the ones I've rebuilt(Use the upgraded Sonnax spring) and lastly make sure the TV cable is set correctly. Good luck with it man!
I don't like oil thinners or flushes, I suppose most people don't either, but I'd try it in a situation where there's nothing to lose. I bought a 74 Chevy C-10 with a 454 that had built up a good amount of crud over 45 years. I had heard of BG but didn't remember to try it when I decided to flush it and ended up using a strong mix of MMO back to back and that black crap flowed from the pan like a sewer pipe. I did 500 mile OC cycles for a while using Rotella 15W40 and it eventually cleaned itself up. MMO is damn good stuff but that BG looks impressive
This is just me showing what products work and don't work I'm not trying to debate anybody or compete with anybody I'm just literally showing people what works
@@FordBossMe I think if I had an old cruddy engine to clean up I would do all of the things you did in the same order. The MMO to help loosen stuff slowly so it doesn't break too much off at once, and changing the filter often to monitor progress and ensure it doesn't get clogged. Then when it's down to a more reasonable amount of crud, run the heavy duty stuff and clean it out the rest of the way. I'm sure the BG wouldn't hurt anything if you ran it first since there is no load and a short run time, but if it does manage to clog and bypass the filter, it could send some chunks through the system. Maybe this is more of a concern on newer engines with VVT and tighter tolerances, but I also think the multi-step process seems like it might clean the easy stuff so the BG can hit the really crusty stuff full strength. Your tests were great to give an unbiased view of each product and insight as to what might suffice for our particular needs, and budgets. MMO seems like a good cheap option for tight budgets that maybe can't afford a BG flush, or just want to see if the engine has any potential left before spending $$$ on it. I plan to add MMO in small amounts as a maintenance cleaner in hopes of not needing the full BG treatment.
@@FordBossMe Wasn't trying to start a debate. Just sharing my experience with MMO. The only reason I didn't try BG was because I didn't think of it at the time.
@@FordBossMe thanks for your videos. I have 5.2 magnum Jeep and find what your doing very interesting. if your plenum gasket is leaking shouldn't it cause the engine to be burning oil? Will see soon when you pull the intake off.
Any time you have a older mopar running for a long period of time you must put the trans in neutral the trans pump does not pump in park only in gear or neutral this is most likely what killed your trans high rpm and no fluid pumping threw your trans and I also thought I heard you say that it is a carbureted vehicle also wrong that is a fuel injection set up on the truck anyway thanks for the vid I always like to see these additives and cleaners in action good luck on the repairs
It's not a f****** carbureted vehicle man sometimes people make mistakes whenever they do videos and it's like every Tom Dick and Harry that comes along once to point that out it's a f****** throttle body type system except it's called something completely different because it's a Chrysler Like every motherfuker on the internet they wants to feel more important than the person making the video wants to point out every single f****** fault but yet I'm the one putting out videos every single day and I'm the one fixing these f****** cars every single day and I even made a follow-up video to this one talking about what happened to the transmission and now it's all pulled apart going back together with new updated Parts but people don't typically want to do the research because they want to feel empowered because they corrected somebody
Had a 1988 Bronco II with a 2,9l engine with a sticking lifter ran 2 cycle of Valvoline Premium Blue thru it back in the late 90's and cleared it up completely. Li,Like, you noted the diesel oil has a much higher detergent package in it.
Sorry to hear the transmission gave out, i guess with older vehicles parts get old and wear. I am enjoying the dodge truck series, keep it up. I ran mmo twice, my van runs smoother now probably going to have to run it a couple more times.
We used BG 44k and MOA at the dealership I worked at years ago. Their products are very good.and I can honestly recommend them. Does BG still have the tokens in the cans that you can redeem for prizes? The BG reps used to hand out some useful gifts at Christmas. Great company!
Yep, they still have those plastic tokens inside the cans! We use MOA and 44K every oil change on our fleet vehicles. Since a lot of fleet vehicle are driven hard, you can see results. For vehicles that are well taken care of, results won't be as noticeable (probably notice nothing) but makes for good maintenance and upkeep.
I use bb44k every 6 months and moa during the summer. MOA doesn't do well in colder climates I found out personally. I switched to prolong during the winter. I use Mobile one every 4,000 miles and notice a huge difference in performance and gas mileage. BG products are the best.
This is an awesome post. Seeing the results with the valve covers off was very interesting. Aggressive flushing of an engine, though, makes me nervous. I used to work for a government fleet, one guy put ATF in a truck's engine by mistake, then somebody else drove it, the result was a ruined engine. I favor a gentler method like several oil changes at shorter intervals. To me that is the proper way to attack a dirty engine (particularly any engine of my own). Any method that runs solvent in place of oil for longer than a minute or two, is probably counter-productive. Aggressive cleaning to me, would mean removing the oil pan and valve covers and cleaning the gunk you find; then doing say 3 oil changes at 100 mile intervals. Even though many people seem to love running solvent in their engines and do it all the time, I would be interested how that engine wore for the next 100,000 miles. Running solvent might clean the engine, but by doing this you are deliberately creating internal wear - the reduction of which is the whole point of the exercise.
@@judyroth-tf9df I worked for a fleet for 30 years. And yes, ATF will sure as hell damage an engine, I have seen a $5000 engine ruined by it. But I'm just some rando guy writing a YT comment, so you put whatever you want into your engine. ATF, kerosene, grape soda, put your own water into it for all I care, it's your engine to destroy as you see fit.
You can’t run the engine like normal service in the 70s to clean the sump you dumped two qts type f two quarts of same 30 let run for 10 minutes drain in the 60s they used kerosene now that is to thin Chrysler used it in trans manual and differential 70s 80s worked ok
Ultra Platinum did a good job cleaning my engine by itself before I ran a can of BG EPR. For the cost of the BG cleaning pack I could do that at least 6 times which probably would clean it better than the one BG cleaning pack. It was still interesting to see the results though
Just my personal thoughts, from my own experience. Two schools of thought about additives, 1, they usually don't do any harm, 2, if quality oil is used and changed with filter every 3-4 K miles, they are of limited benefit and not needed. For my small business fleet, no diesels, with mostly highway miles, I've had several go 300 - 400 thousand miles with no failures, just started getting tired. Minimal consumption, no smoke, easily pass MOT inspections. We used Castrol 5/30, zero additives, as mentioned changes at 3-4 thousand with WIX or Purolator filters. I think if the oil manufacturers saw a need for additional additives in their products, they would surely put them in. There is also the chance that additional products could have a negative affect on the chemistry of the oil as produced. My BMW and Porsche both specify no oil additives are to be used. If good maintenance standards are continually applied, quality oil will do the job of engine lubrication quite well. I'd rather spend the money on more frequent service, rather than on ridiculously expensive after market additives. A neighbor adds MOA to his car with every oil change, at about $20 a pop. He uses Costco synthetic, (made by Warren Industries,) that small MOA is nearly the same price as 5 quarts of the Costco oil. That economic logic is lost on me.
Sorry about your transmission. Since your oil changes interval at 3k mi. Can you keep us updated every 2 oil changes see how cleaner the internals look.
@@FordBossMe Mainly its a mild chemical to help free sticky lifters and rockers etc. It's not a deep cleaning product but helps old hardware continue to function.
As you noted, Rislone isn't in the same league as the BG flush products. I first used it in the late 80s and fairly recently as well, but would look elsewhere if more than a light cleaning was required.
I just wonder if after a few miles on the SD oil, if you did the whole process over again, how much more it would of cleaned out that "loosened" up from the SD oil
I just used bg 109 for hard carbon deposits. Thats what 109 is designed for, add bg and run to operating temp then 10 minutes at 1200 rpm. I did 20 minutes, drained and ran another quart through the engine before closing drain plug, refilling and changing filter. So you ran a diesel bg cleaner in it? I used the 109 because my car is a gdi. I also switched to t4 diesel oil. It calls for 10w40 but vw spec, i was running t6 and it was fine but i wanted a synethic blend
Had a neighbor that never changed his oil after 8 years it was knocking like someone was at the door the oil was tar and wouldn’t drain. We put 6 quarts of kerosene in it ran for 2 minutes drained did it a second time running 5 minutes at 1000rpm we put fresh oil in and he drove it another year before the transmission went
Because the Amsoil filter is not as cost efficient and as good as the Fram Ultra the frame Ultra filters at the same rating if not better and has better material inside
I’ve run sea foam in the crank case on a 98 ram 5.9 I had that I knew had been previously neglected. I’ve used some of the BG products for years but never the engine flush. I’m always weary of using solvents in the crank case though. Especially in newer engines. I think getting too much lack of maintenance debris into suspension all at once might not be a good thing.
There's ways to mitigate that the people don't want to take a chance ....just like for instance the old saying what what if you plug up the pick up tube and then my response always leaves people stumped with don't you have a borescope camera for a reason?!... why don't you stick it in the damn drain hole and look at the pick up tube and then they respond with oh s*** I didn't even think about that
@@FordBossMe I love my borescope, I've used it for so many purposes besides cars. I just used it to find a tube of gasket sealer I dropped deep into the hull of my jetski:-). I check radiators for buildup, find wires in walls and the usual cylinder inspections. They are so cheap now everyone should have one.
I would love to see amm the BG products in like a YT shorts format. Info for all their stuff is non-existant. My mechanic friend got me on that 44k and my lawd been in my whips since. Cant get this kit for free though. lol I wish. Love the vids!
A little late to the game: I had a '99 with the 5.9 360 with oil pressure sitting at around the 40psi mark. Weren't there aftermarket high-volume oil pumps made for both engines? Melling comes to mind for some reason......Ended up getting rid of the truck after, despite my best efforts, I was getting 12.5 MPG and was dumb enough to use it as a daily driver to a job 30 or so miles away, like 10 years ago when gas was $3.65/gal here in SC. Kinda miss that truck now, as she ran like a champ after replacing that pressure solenoid that would dump pressure and cause frequent downshifts......
@@FordBossMe minutes 8:32 “ these old carburated engines dont like high RPM” Lol the chrysler 5.2L magnum in 2001 was multiport fuel injection not TBI.
I'd like to run the BG Engine Restoration Kit through my 2013 F150 5.0L but the lube capacity is 7.7 qts. Since the BG cleaner and rinse are 6 qts., what can I do for the other 1.7 quarts of cleaner and rinse that I need without buying 2-$300 dollar kits?
Is ok to flush my 06 Scion Xb with 185,000 miles on it. Burns a little bit of oil but not much. I'd say it burns about half a quart of oil every 5k miles. I think the oil control rings might be clogged or smudged up! Just wondered if it will harm the oil seals, gaskets, or valve stem seals, etc. since the vehicle has high miles? Just wanted to get your professional opinion on the matter.
Can o use diesel 10 30 in my 3.9 or should I just use regular. It smokes a bit too. My trans takes about 10 mins to hit reverse on first start longer when cold outside? Is my pump going out? Great videos
Do you have to use fresh oil or can you use the existing engine oil with say maybe 2-3k on it and add the BG then run and do a change EDIT: When using EPR by itself
@@FordBossMe It is not as engine flush but will be used as normal engine oil. Not just better cleaning, adding cooking oil will improve engine oil lubricity and increase oil solvency, reducing the chance of varnish / sludge. Some people even got better mileage / performance. longer oil live too.
Two squirts of Dawn dish detergent down the oil fill for a ten min run before an oil change is all you need. I saw it cleans oil off of ducks like a charm.
@@flyboy6258 really? I try both liquid and solid soap and it do not clean anything when I mix it with oil. It only work with water. And people still have trouble cleaning sludge with water and soap in opened engine block.
No that's not really all that true you cant expect it to clean very fast so it's kind of an old wives tale that a lot of people have held on to it's not actually really that good at cleaning sorry to burst your bubble but I've already done those testings here on this channel diesel fuel is actually not that great
Over the years (learning from cars with serious oil leaks) I figured out that if I did a "double oil change" once a year that the oil looked about as clear as when I bought the truck new. Which goes to my question... instead of doing a flush+oil change, let's try a good oil flush followed by good oil? In other words, what happens if you just use $25 worth of good oil and a new filter to do the same thing?
Some people use tranmisson fluid as flush. You can try. It very close to your idea. For snythetic motor oil not desgni for flush they may protect slugh I very sure they don't want to add too many detergent or someone might want to complain oil dirty after oil change blabla.
Carbureted engine? You mean one that was initially designed to be run with a carburetor?? Sorta I guess. Though no magnum engine ever had a carburetor. But if that's what you meant, magnums weren't changed much from the LA engines. Which were mid 60's designs.
I made a mistake when they said that Chrysler calls it something different it's a throttle body plate but it's not a throttle body yet it's set up different so I don't know I just called it like what I seen it look like even though it's not a carburetor
@@FordBossMe hmm.. Chrysler didnt call it throttle body injection? TBI? I myself would refer to any makes setup like that TBI. But I believe the last Mopar engine\car to have an actual carburetor was a 1989 Chrysler 5th avenue, dodge diplomat, Plymouth Gran Fury all with a 318 LA with a 2 barrel Holley 6280. Which was not a true carburetor. It was known as a "feedback carburetor". It had a little plunger inside that was electronically controlled from a single oxygen sensor in the driver side exhaust manifold, and a troublesome computer fitted to the side of the air cleaner. But it could only make slight fuel adjustments. Even if you unhooked the wiring it would still run and drive fairly normal. I'm not sure if the dodge Rams had a feedback carb in 89 or not. It seems to me they didn't. Feel like they were fitted with TBI in 1987-88. I may be wrong though. But I know for sure Rams had TBI in 1991 and up. The first year that Dakota's came out in 87 they had the new 3.9 L. ( 239ci ) V6. Which was a 318 with 2 cylinders missing. But that year only the 3.9L had a feedback carburetor. It's really hard to find that carburetor intake for the 3.9L recently I have been trying to find one. So I can retrofit the V6 onto an old car that has a worn out 318. It's almost a direct swap.
I’m curious if you have ever encountered codes P0706 & P0707 on the 2016 Ford F-150 5.0 or newer. I’ve been reading different forums some say it my be a bad lead & others are suggesting a bad/faulty trans sensor.
Tell me what it means without having me go look it up because I don't remember what every code means so it would be helpful when you guys post that stuff you actually post what it means I don't have to go do the extra work to go look for it
@@FordBossMe The engine probably has 2000 miles on it, would you still run Synthetic? Do Brand new cars off the lot (24,000 dollar cars) use Conventional or Synthetic? Why is Synthetic oil Better than Regular oil?
@@FordBossMe Have you put MMO in your fuel tank? 4 oz to 10 Gal. Could you tell any difference, and how long did you add the MMO to your fuel? From what I understand you have to use it more than once.
Hey boss do you recommend this for higher mileage engines ( say every 100k or so) just to keep things clean in the engine or is this only for severe sludge situations? Keep up the great work and content brother and be blessed.
5.2 is the 318 C.I. engine, right? I never had any fondness for that gutless engine but the 340 was a good running one. I'm talking from 1970's experiences however.
None of the engines from this era were really anything to brag about so I'm not going to start praising any engine to be honest with you and I think it's pointless to do so
BG Engine Restoration kit works great on oil rings and general sludge cleaning, but it needs good oil flow. Cleaning effect on hard to reach areas is not so great, but it is safe product. On other hand DMSO have much better cleaning properties and cleans much better where is not sufficient oil flow. Problem with DMSO it will strip paint from oil pan and nasty smell....
When you fix the bottom of the intake don't just replace the gasket there is a couple of different companies that make an upgraded pan to replace the piece of tin from the factory and solves the problem of it never happening again.
Is there any place in this video that I specifically mentioned carb engine I don't remember doing that and if I did maybe I made a mistake this is a throttle body type injection but it's not really a throttle body type injection it's like some kind of cross between throttle body and electronic throttle valve it's called something different with Dodge
sorry to hear about the transmission.chrysler never did build many good transmissions.judging by the age of the truck, the original trans most likely took a crap long ago.your probably lucky this one lasted as long as it did.
You ran the engine at high RPMs in park that's what I am to the transmission for the price of all that stuff you could have did a quick Refresh on the engine
This stuff is potent and made for neglected engines, super harmful on the bearings. That being said in your application there is a lot of placebo going on. It didn't really remove anything that mattered or a regular oil change wouldn't have knocked off. I think this is the primary reason they won't sell it to individuals and only specific shops acquire it. For most people it is "snake oil" that damages bearings and reduces engine life. For the one in a million (over exaggeration) it is a double edged sword that will either kill the motor outright, or give it life. Because some people have serious sludge issues... That being said I still enjoyed the video for curiosity and science!
Any sources on it being bad for bearings? I can understand in principal, but used correctly, it's not diluting the oil that much. It can't be bumping the oil down more than maybe one grade. And since the flush is performed stationary there's no load on the engine.
Worked better than marvel mystery?
Omg yes, the Marvel Mystery Oil is a slow cleaner it's a very good cleaner but it's very slow and this cleaner is a very fast strong industrial cleaner so you can't compare the two
Marvel Mystery Oil would be the better bet for a long-term slow cleaning
@@FordBossMe imo marvel mystery oil would be good for preventing buildup on old engines but in terms of really cleaning the engine bg is the only way to go if you want immediate quantifiable results.
The BG is no joke it does a great job at cleaning.
@@anandchundi6805 marvel mystery oil works great long term to clean up an engine BG works "right now".
@@FordBossMe Right on! MMO is good stuff, but it does take time to work. It took four oil changes with MMO before the sticking hydraulic lifters freed up completely on the old 90 Mazda MPV 4x4. But man, that engine was quiet once MMO did its job, no more loud ticking! Didn't know BG offered this kind of engine cleaner, but now I have an option to clean the engines quicker when needed. Thanks!
pro tip from old man, turn jugs sideways won`t jug when coming out
Pro tip from a seasoned youtuber.....try it with a camera and see if you remember everything to do and juggle a camera
I know but but you can't focus on every time you detail when you get rolling
I use BG products, the EPR is a great flush, smells nice, but most importantly works. Using it on an old sports car it freed up piston rings and increased compression by an average of 15% per cylinder. The car drove so much better afterwards, but probably suited to vehicles with 100k miles or more IMO.
Cleaned motor out nicely. I was stunned last night when reverse went out in your truck. I think the tranny was upset the motor got all the attention. 😄 I ran MOA in my trucks since 04. BG products is really good stuff. Not surprising since it was developed for the race car industry. 🙂🐶
That trans won't pump to the cooler if in park. Must run it in neutral if running it for any length of time like you did or it will burn up. Learned that myself of a customers truck. This is why you check the atf in neutral and not park on this era and older dodges
So, I stopped watching when he showed the oil on his finger. And reading what you said is reasonable doubt...I won't watch the rest of this video alone.... I'm going to save this for the shop to watch with me... what lube techs do to make a living is what I see as a title.
Your 5.2 cranks and idles like a champ. Good luck with the transmission issue and the plenum gasket repair.
You can run the FL-1A for a larger filter and higher oil capacity. Same thing with all LA small block mopars. I run that size on my 99 318 and the 340 in my roadrunner. Fram ultra synthetic is XG8A, Purolator Boss PBL30001,Wix 51515. Increases capacity by half a quart and the filter holds alot more.
The plenum is a fun one, I suggest you get the aluminum plate to replace the stamped steel one. Big upgrade.
As for the trans, check the reverse accumulator piston. They are a cast aluminum and are known to crack or break. Even more so if you tow or plow with the trucks. Mine came out in pieces when my reverse let go. It completely disengaged the reverse band. A local transmission shop had billet ones in stock as an upgraded part and I was back on the road.
Love the videos, and I love the series on this dodge truck. My 99 was neglected on oil changes when I got it too. I have been running full synthetic oil for the last 50k miles and have been using marvel off and on with those changes. I was glad to see your results, it gives me faith in what I've been doing!
Motorcraft filters are pretty good quality even on brands outside of "FOMOCO'S" assembly.
I just bought a 2003 Dodge Durango slt 5.9 that's 2wd. The trans when placed in drive locks in 3rd gear. You can manually shift into second but not first. Reverse works. The Durango looks really good inside and out runs really good. Any ideas on the transmission issues?
@Daniel finney If I had to take a guess, governor pressure transducer and the governor pressure solenoid. Usually when one stops working the other is not far behind it. The previous owner of my truck had a similar issue, and that is what he said was the issue. Bring it to a reputable transmission shop and have them check it out! Good luck and keep that Mopar on the road
@@danielfinney4295 《☆》Gunk makes a transmission additive called Trasmedic Shift improver👍✔It's worth a try. It made the 2nd to 3rd shift delay go away on my 98 Dakota. Autozone sells it🖖🤓🙏☮
If it's not one thing, it's another...hopefully the transmission parts can be readily found. The inside of that engine cleaned up well, those before and after views of the valve train really show how much gunk was cleared out and loosened up! I will be looking into trying out this BG product on a used vehicle my brother has purchased recently. It'll be the first time I use this stuff, but I have no worries since I know you have used it. Thanks again for your work!
5QT SYSTEM NOT 6 -
The extra qt was just for cleaning not the final run
10w30 Superduty Oil
5qts and a Fl300 Ford Filter
The things you do for us.
I know this is an older video but the diesel oil will do a lot of cleaning over a short time to an older engine like this. I had an 85 Ford 300 since new and the first oil change to the last was Rotella 15w- 40. They didn't have 5w-40 t6 back then otherwise I would have used that. At 50k i pulled the valve cover to replace the cork gasket and the top end of that engine looked like it had never been started. Pulled engine around 2000 @ 150 k replaced all gaskets and seals and installed it in a clean southern truck. Engine still looked brand new absolutely no varnish or sludge. Just a bit of brown on the bottom of the pistons. Lost track of it at about 200k but new guy followed same routine as i did and never had a problem. Great oil and engine
I'm going to use your comment in a video this morning so I can talk about this very thing that you just look for it if you want
Nice results on the engine flush! That looks like one of the better flush products for truly dirty engines.
I'm a fan of this Dodge garage series you got going on! Keep the videos coming. That really stinks the transmission pooped. Looking forward to that video as well(great time to be proactive and upgrade the pan and switch to a large external cooler if it doesn't have one already)
I've been away for a few days and was surprised how bad your eye still is. Thank God the shrapnel didn't hit you a half inch higher, that would be permanent. Live and learn, glad you're healing well.
Thank you for sharing the things that you used very grateful.
I'm glad that you look for things that work best. You're not name-dropping on companies because they are paying you.
You're doing it because they're the ones that work the best.
From experience.
BG is awesome stuff .!! all my vehicles i buy used get a engine flush useing BG EPR and finished off with MOA its like starting with a clean slate
I've found that an extendable "hood prop" tool works very well to hold pedals.
I use it for alignments brake lamp checks throttle pedal holding positions. Tons of ways to use a baton style hood prop. Pry bars work great but there are so many length differences between brands that sometimes it just doesn't work. Obviously it does in this particular situation and many others. Just trying to help everyone out
Thanks for the video! BG makes great stuff. Like the color of your truck. I could see it being used like in some type of retro Road Warrior movie. Nice orange toolbox in the background.
Sorry about your eye injury. 👍
Tyvm
Can't kill a 5.2! Couple tips. Replace the o2 sensors with ATK sensors for better gas mileage. Most of the transmission issues on the 42-46RE are the two bands out of adjustment and the solenoids in the trans(You can upgrade the solenoids to the diesel ones for firmer shifts). The accumulator spring is broken in half on 90% of the ones I've rebuilt(Use the upgraded Sonnax spring) and lastly make sure the TV cable is set correctly. Good luck with it man!
I'm doing all the solenoid upgrades now and band and internal upgrades
The only trouble I'll have is the TV cable I have not looked into that yet
Dam another inch and you may not have had an eye!! Thanks for the video buddy I’m gonna give it a shot in a 5.4 triton
your buddy Scotty Kilmer calls running an engine at 3,000rpm an Italian Tune Up
I don't like oil thinners or flushes, I suppose most people don't either, but I'd try it in a situation where there's nothing to lose.
I bought a 74 Chevy C-10 with a 454 that had built up a good amount of crud over 45 years. I had heard of BG but didn't remember to try it when I decided to flush it and ended up using a strong mix of MMO back to back and that black crap flowed from the pan like a sewer pipe. I did 500 mile OC cycles for a while using Rotella 15W40 and it eventually cleaned itself up. MMO is damn good stuff but that BG looks impressive
This is just me showing what products work and don't work I'm not trying to debate anybody or compete with anybody I'm just literally showing people what works
@@FordBossMe I think if I had an old cruddy engine to clean up I would do all of the things you did in the same order. The MMO to help loosen stuff slowly so it doesn't break too much off at once, and changing the filter often to monitor progress and ensure it doesn't get clogged. Then when it's down to a more reasonable amount of crud, run the heavy duty stuff and clean it out the rest of the way. I'm sure the BG wouldn't hurt anything if you ran it first since there is no load and a short run time, but if it does manage to clog and bypass the filter, it could send some chunks through the system. Maybe this is more of a concern on newer engines with VVT and tighter tolerances, but I also think the multi-step process seems like it might clean the easy stuff so the BG can hit the really crusty stuff full strength.
Your tests were great to give an unbiased view of each product and insight as to what might suffice for our particular needs, and budgets. MMO seems like a good cheap option for tight budgets that maybe can't afford a BG flush, or just want to see if the engine has any potential left before spending $$$ on it. I plan to add MMO in small amounts as a maintenance cleaner in hopes of not needing the full BG treatment.
@@FordBossMe Wasn't trying to start a debate. Just sharing my experience with MMO. The only reason I didn't try BG was because I didn't think of it at the time.
@@FordBossMe thanks for your videos. I have 5.2 magnum Jeep and find what your doing very interesting. if your plenum gasket is leaking shouldn't it cause the engine to be burning oil? Will see soon when you pull the intake off.
Any time you have a older mopar running for a long period of time you must put the trans in neutral the trans pump does not pump in park only in gear or neutral this is most likely what killed your trans high rpm and no fluid pumping threw your trans and I also thought I heard you say that it is a carbureted vehicle also wrong that is a fuel injection set up on the truck anyway thanks for the vid I always like to see these additives and cleaners in action good luck on the repairs
It's not a f****** carbureted vehicle man sometimes people make mistakes whenever they do videos and it's like every Tom Dick and Harry that comes along once to point that out it's a f****** throttle body type system except it's called something completely different because it's a Chrysler
Like every motherfuker on the internet they wants to feel more important than the person making the video wants to point out every single f****** fault but yet I'm the one putting out videos every single day and I'm the one fixing these f****** cars every single day and I even made a follow-up video to this one talking about what happened to the transmission and now it's all pulled apart going back together with new updated Parts but people don't typically want to do the research because they want to feel empowered because they corrected somebody
You gave that engine an enema.
Had a 1988 Bronco II with a 2,9l engine with a sticking lifter ran 2 cycle of Valvoline Premium Blue thru it back in the late 90's and cleared it up completely. Li,Like, you noted the diesel oil has a much higher detergent package in it.
Sorry to hear the transmission gave out, i guess with older vehicles parts get old and wear. I am enjoying the dodge truck series, keep it up. I ran mmo twice, my van runs smoother now probably going to have to run it a couple more times.
We used BG 44k and MOA at the dealership I worked at years ago. Their products are very good.and I can honestly recommend them.
Does BG still have the tokens in the cans that you can redeem for prizes? The BG reps used to hand out some useful gifts at Christmas. Great company!
Yep, they still have those plastic tokens inside the cans! We use MOA and 44K every oil change on our fleet vehicles. Since a lot of fleet vehicle are driven hard, you can see results. For vehicles that are well taken care of, results won't be as noticeable (probably notice nothing) but makes for good maintenance and upkeep.
What is cost ?
I use bb44k every 6 months and moa during the summer. MOA doesn't do well in colder climates I found out personally. I switched to prolong during the winter. I use Mobile one every 4,000 miles and notice a huge difference in performance and gas mileage. BG products are the best.
Been looking forward to this
BG products are made right here in Wichita Kansas. We've been using that stuff for 40 years.
Best stuff around
This is an awesome post. Seeing the results with the valve covers off was very interesting. Aggressive flushing of an engine, though, makes me nervous. I used to work for a government fleet, one guy put ATF in a truck's engine by mistake, then somebody else drove it, the result was a ruined engine. I favor a gentler method like several oil changes at shorter intervals. To me that is the proper way to attack a dirty engine (particularly any engine of my own).
Any method that runs solvent in place of oil for longer than a minute or two, is probably counter-productive. Aggressive cleaning to me, would mean removing the oil pan and valve covers and cleaning the gunk you find; then doing say 3 oil changes at 100 mile intervals. Even though many people seem to love running solvent in their engines and do it all the time, I would be interested how that engine wore for the next 100,000 miles. Running solvent might clean the engine, but by doing this you are deliberately creating internal wear - the reduction of which is the whole point of the exercise.
Not true trans fluid cleans and it is a lubricant will not hurt a engine
@@judyroth-tf9df I worked for a fleet for 30 years. And yes, ATF will sure as hell damage an engine, I have seen a $5000 engine ruined by it. But I'm just some rando guy writing a YT comment, so you put whatever you want into your engine. ATF, kerosene, grape soda, put your own water into it for all I care, it's your engine to destroy as you see fit.
You can’t run the engine like normal service in the 70s to clean the sump you dumped two qts type f two quarts of same 30 let run for 10 minutes drain in the 60s they used kerosene now that is to thin Chrysler used it in trans manual and differential 70s 80s worked ok
Ultra Platinum did a good job cleaning my engine by itself before I ran a can of BG EPR. For the cost of the BG cleaning pack I could do that at least 6 times which probably would clean it better than the one BG cleaning pack. It was still interesting to see the results though
You be careful you hear you could have lost a eye . Good video
Just my personal thoughts, from my own experience. Two schools of thought about additives, 1, they usually don't do any harm, 2, if quality oil is used and changed with filter every 3-4 K miles, they are of limited benefit and not needed. For my small business fleet, no diesels, with mostly highway miles, I've had several go 300 - 400 thousand miles with no failures, just started getting tired.
Minimal consumption, no smoke, easily pass MOT inspections. We used Castrol 5/30, zero additives, as mentioned changes at 3-4 thousand with WIX or Purolator filters.
I think if the oil manufacturers saw a need for additional additives in their products, they would surely put them in. There is also the chance that additional products could have a negative affect on the chemistry of the oil as produced. My BMW and Porsche both specify no oil additives are to be used.
If good maintenance standards are continually applied, quality oil will do the job of engine lubrication quite well. I'd rather spend the money on more frequent service, rather than on ridiculously expensive after market additives. A neighbor adds MOA to his car with every oil change, at about $20 a pop. He uses Costco synthetic, (made by Warren Industries,) that small MOA is nearly the same price as 5 quarts of the Costco oil. That economic logic is lost on me.
Sorry about your transmission. Since your oil changes interval at 3k mi. Can you keep us updated every 2 oil changes see how cleaner the internals look.
That shave did you good. Looking way better with the trimmed version !! There a product called Rislone that also helps old engines out with build up.
Yeah ive used it, it did okay but it wasn't anything to shake a stick at
Doesn't even come close to this stuff by any means I'm just being honest
@@FordBossMe Mainly its a mild chemical to help free sticky lifters and rockers etc. It's not a deep cleaning product but helps old hardware continue to function.
As you noted, Rislone isn't in the same league as the BG flush products. I first used it in the late 80s and fairly recently as well, but would look elsewhere if more than a light cleaning was required.
So far we haven't needed 4x4... Wonder how much longer it will last?
I just wonder if after a few miles on the SD oil, if you did the whole process over again, how much more it would of cleaned out that "loosened" up from the SD oil
I just used bg 109 for hard carbon deposits. Thats what 109 is designed for, add bg and run to operating temp then 10 minutes at 1200 rpm. I did 20 minutes, drained and ran another quart through the engine before closing drain plug, refilling and changing filter. So you ran a diesel bg cleaner in it? I used the 109 because my car is a gdi. I also switched to t4 diesel oil. It calls for 10w40 but vw spec, i was running t6 and it was fine but i wanted a synethic blend
I just bought some two bottles so we're going to try it out
I think if you would of run the Marvel mystery oil in 2 or 3 oil changes it would look better to with out all that extra. From what i saw. 💪
DUDE!! great content. wondering if BG will flush out or push crud into my turbo screens? 2019 F 150 3.5 used.
I noticed the oil pressure on a cold start after you put the oil in at the end it was pretty low
I had a friend of mine do something like that and big chunks broke off and clogged his oil pickup screen, but his must have been extremely bad
Had a neighbor that never changed his oil after 8 years it was knocking like someone was at the door the oil was tar and wouldn’t drain. We put 6 quarts of kerosene in it ran for 2 minutes drained did it a second time running 5 minutes at 1000rpm we put fresh oil in and he drove it another year before the transmission went
If you like amsoil how come you didn't use the oil filter during both process for amsoil to do more cleaning
Because the Amsoil filter is not as cost efficient and as good as the Fram Ultra the frame Ultra filters at the same rating if not better and has better material inside
@@FordBossMe well if cost is a issue couldn't you use wix wouldn't that be a better option and I would never use frame nope. Im a hard-core amsoil guy
I’ve run sea foam in the crank case on a 98 ram 5.9 I had that I knew had been previously neglected. I’ve used some of the BG products for years but never the engine flush. I’m always weary of using solvents in the crank case though. Especially in newer engines. I think getting too much lack of maintenance debris into suspension all at once might not be a good thing.
There's ways to mitigate that
the people don't want to take a chance ....just like for instance the old saying what what if you plug up the pick up tube and then my response always leaves people stumped with don't you have a borescope camera for a reason?!... why don't you stick it in the damn drain hole and look at the pick up tube and then they respond with oh s*** I didn't even think about that
@@FordBossMe I love my borescope, I've used it for so many purposes besides cars. I just used it to find a tube of gasket sealer I dropped deep into the hull of my jetski:-). I check radiators for buildup, find wires in walls and the usual cylinder inspections. They are so cheap now everyone should have one.
Is it OK to use as a regular engine flush , every 5000 mile oil change ?
Sure
@@FordBossMe Thanks , I had always been using Liqui-Moly .
I would love to see amm the BG products in like a YT shorts format. Info for all their stuff is non-existant. My mechanic friend got me on that 44k and my lawd been in my whips since. Cant get this kit for free though. lol I wish.
Love the vids!
A little late to the game: I had a '99 with the 5.9 360 with oil pressure sitting at around the 40psi mark. Weren't there aftermarket high-volume oil pumps made for both engines? Melling comes to mind for some reason......Ended up getting rid of the truck after, despite my best efforts, I was getting 12.5 MPG and was dumb enough to use it as a daily driver to a job 30 or so miles away, like 10 years ago when gas was $3.65/gal here in SC. Kinda miss that truck now, as she ran like a champ after replacing that pressure solenoid that would dump pressure and cause frequent downshifts......
Mine is still doing very well
So a guy named driveshaft did not punch you! Be safe. I did the B&g coolant flush at 5 years! the shop had that system. Engine looks good.
Carburetor??🤔🤔
Tbi
@@FordBossMe I thought the 5.2 and 5.9 was MPFI after 96? (OBD-2) I could be wrong I don't know
Once you said it no longer burned oil and ran better I didn't think it needed bg anymore.
Just because it doesn't burn oil and it runs better doesn't mean that it's cleaned out bud
The plenum still needs to be replaced you don't just let that go because it's not really burning oil anymore
Did you say in the video that the engine is carburated? Or did I not hear correctly? Anyway its good to know BG products work 👍🏼
The I never said it was carburated - it's got a tbi type carb looking setup but it's definitely fuel injected
@@FordBossMe minutes 8:32 “ these old carburated engines dont like high RPM”
Lol the chrysler 5.2L magnum in 2001 was multiport fuel injection not TBI.
Looking at the rust underneath, it looks like this vehicle operated where they use salt to disperse snow.
I'd like to run the BG Engine Restoration Kit through my 2013 F150 5.0L but the lube capacity is 7.7 qts. Since the BG cleaner and rinse are 6 qts., what can I do for the other 1.7 quarts of cleaner and rinse that I need without buying 2-$300 dollar kits?
Use 1.7 quarts of Marvel's Mystery Oil. I have a 8 quart system.
Is ok to flush my 06 Scion Xb with 185,000 miles on it. Burns a little bit of oil but not much. I'd say it burns about half a quart of oil every 5k miles. I think the oil control rings might be clogged or smudged up! Just wondered if it will harm the oil seals, gaskets, or valve stem seals, etc. since the vehicle has high miles? Just wanted to get your professional opinion on the matter.
Mmo use it
This stuff cleans aluminum engines better than cast iron
quick question..
any improvement to your fuel economy? thanks..you rock
Yeah I got a little bit better fuel mileage for sure but now I'm tearing it all down and I've got some rebuilding projects going on so yep
Can o use diesel 10 30 in my 3.9 or should I just use regular. It smokes a bit too. My trans takes about 10 mins to hit reverse on first start longer when cold outside? Is my pump going out? Great videos
You may have a filter that's plugged up that's why and yes you can use Diesel 10 W 30
Do you have to use fresh oil or can you use the existing engine oil with say maybe 2-3k on it and add the BG then run and do a change
EDIT: When using EPR by itself
Existing
Great video bud, just out of curiosity what did the engine light end up being. Thank you.
Missfire
Compared to Liqui-Molly? I have had great luck using Liqui-Molly engine flush.
Carburated?
Tbi
mix the oil with 5% corn oil and 5% palm oil for better cleaning.
Bg epr for aggressive cleaning - And MMO for slow cleaning
@@FordBossMe It is not as engine flush but will be used as normal engine oil. Not just better cleaning, adding cooking oil will improve engine oil lubricity and increase oil solvency, reducing the chance of varnish / sludge.
Some people even got better mileage / performance. longer oil live too.
Two squirts of Dawn dish detergent down the oil fill for a ten min run before an oil change is all you need. I saw it cleans oil off of ducks like a charm.
@@flyboy6258 really? I try both liquid and solid soap and it do not clean anything when I mix it with oil. It only work with water. And people still have trouble cleaning sludge with water and soap in opened engine block.
Thanks!
Diesel fuel will also clean the sludge out of your engine. But run it for just a few minutes before you change the oil.
No that's not really all that true
you cant expect it to clean very fast
so it's kind of an old wives tale that a lot of people have held on to it's not actually really that good at cleaning sorry to burst your bubble but I've already done those testings here on this channel diesel fuel is actually not that great
@@FordBossMe Which "fast" consumer grade engine flush do you recommend for a 32V 5.4 in a Navi?
Over the years (learning from cars with serious oil leaks) I figured out that if I did a "double oil change" once a year that the oil looked about as clear as when I bought the truck new. Which goes to my question... instead of doing a flush+oil change, let's try a good oil flush followed by good oil? In other words, what happens if you just use $25 worth of good oil and a new filter to do the same thing?
Oil won't flush a already abused engine alone
Some people use tranmisson fluid as flush. You can try. It very close to your idea. For snythetic motor oil not desgni for flush they may protect slugh I very sure they don't want to add too many detergent or someone might want to complain oil dirty after oil change blabla.
YESSSSSS BEEN WAITING FOR THIS
Carbureted engine? You mean one that was initially designed to be run with a carburetor?? Sorta I guess. Though no magnum engine ever had a carburetor. But if that's what you meant, magnums weren't changed much from the LA engines. Which were mid 60's designs.
I made a mistake when they said that Chrysler calls it something different it's a throttle body plate but it's not a throttle body yet it's set up different so I don't know I just called it like what I seen it look like even though it's not a carburetor
@@FordBossMe hmm.. Chrysler didnt call it throttle body injection? TBI? I myself would refer to any makes setup like that TBI. But I believe the last Mopar engine\car to have an actual carburetor was a 1989 Chrysler 5th avenue, dodge diplomat, Plymouth Gran Fury all with a 318 LA with a 2 barrel Holley 6280. Which was not a true carburetor. It was known as a "feedback carburetor". It had a little plunger inside that was electronically controlled from a single oxygen sensor in the driver side exhaust manifold, and a troublesome computer fitted to the side of the air cleaner. But it could only make slight fuel adjustments. Even if you unhooked the wiring it would still run and drive fairly normal.
I'm not sure if the dodge Rams had a feedback carb in 89 or not. It seems to me they didn't. Feel like they were fitted with TBI in 1987-88. I may be wrong though. But I know for sure Rams had TBI in 1991 and up. The first year that Dakota's came out in 87 they had the new 3.9 L. ( 239ci ) V6. Which was a 318 with 2 cylinders missing. But that year only the 3.9L had a feedback carburetor. It's really hard to find that carburetor intake for the 3.9L recently I have been trying to find one. So I can retrofit the V6 onto an old car that has a worn out 318. It's almost a direct swap.
8:32
I’m curious if you have ever encountered codes P0706 & P0707 on the 2016 Ford F-150 5.0 or newer. I’ve been reading different forums some say it my be a bad lead & others are suggesting a bad/faulty trans sensor.
Tell me what it means without having me go look it up because I don't remember what every code means so it would be helpful when you guys post that stuff you actually post what it means I don't have to go do the extra work to go look for it
@@FordBossMe Wasn't my question but thought I'd help out: P0706 (Range Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance), P0707 (Range Sensor "A" Circuit Low)
@ford boss me would this be safe and effective on a 17 Ford F-150 eco boost?
Sure it would, they make a smaller kit on Amazon as well epr and moa
I have a 2001 Ram, I should do the same.
How does one measure oil pressure if you have a car that doesn't have OBD-II port? I can't check it via computer so what's the other option?
You have to find an oil Galley port maybe somewhere around the oil filter housing there's something that looks like a little Allen plug
And you have to put a mechanical gauge in where that plug is it's going to take some research on your part
@@FordBossMe Excellent thanks boss. You're the best.
When I change my oil in my Dodge Ram 5.9 L should I put 5 or 6 quartz back in? Do you use Synthetic or Conventional, and what oil would you recommend?
5 I believe
I run 10 w-30 full synthetic but if you're going to change it every 3000 Miles you don't have to do that
@@FordBossMe The engine probably has 2000 miles on it, would you still run Synthetic? Do Brand new cars off the lot (24,000 dollar cars) use Conventional or Synthetic? Why is Synthetic oil Better than Regular oil?
@@FordBossMe Have you put MMO in your fuel tank? 4 oz to 10 Gal. Could you tell any difference, and how long did you add the MMO to your fuel? From what I understand you have to use it more than once.
Shell rotella T6 5w40 would probably work or T5 ultra FA-4 10w30
Do you use crush washers on that oil plug ?
Yes
This makes great very interesting content for your channel's growth ,Merry Christmas to you and your family. Be blessed , back at ya.
Hey boss do you recommend this for higher mileage engines ( say every 100k or so) just to keep things clean in the engine or is this only for severe sludge situations? Keep up the great work and content brother and be blessed.
They make a smaller kit yes
5.2 is the 318 C.I. engine, right? I never had any fondness for that gutless engine but the 340 was a good running one. I'm talking from 1970's experiences however.
Yes
None of the engines from this era were really anything to brag about so I'm not going to start praising any engine to be honest with you and I think it's pointless to do so
@@FordBossMe Cool, leave that up to me, I know them well.
Gutless my a::, my 98 I've owned since 2001 w/5.2 has over 600,000, and still gets a hard-on!
As Shania Twain sang “That don’t impress me much!”
Here
ua-cam.com/video/5dz8TQOwnQY/v-deo.html
Here is another
ua-cam.com/video/4s0X5CoH7js/v-deo.html
Is this safe to use on a 2015 dodge Durango. r/t ?
It is but if I was you I would use the basic flush kit and not the big one
At the end of look like regular used.
It worked rebarkable
BG Engine Restoration kit works great on oil rings and general sludge cleaning, but it needs good oil flow. Cleaning effect on hard to reach areas is not so great, but it is safe product. On other hand DMSO have much better cleaning properties and cleans much better where is not sufficient oil flow. Problem with DMSO it will strip paint from oil pan and nasty smell....
Link?
Bet the Diesel motor oil with all its detergents will flush alot of the old oil garbage out.
Will this stuff work good in out 4.6lts?
Yep
Why the Ford filter ?
Bigger and it has a better bypass valve than others
Link to BG products?
www.amazon.com/dp/B07TMRJY42/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_1YP2RCVESMTCF8GADCJZ?linkCode=ml2&tag=richarddpoiss-20
When you fix the bottom of the intake don't just replace the gasket there is a couple of different companies that make an upgraded pan to replace the piece of tin from the factory and solves the problem of it never happening again.
I already have the Mopar upgrade Billet kit
@@FordBossMe good deal. The original design was piss poor to say the least.
That's a carb engine? U sure? Dodge went to FI in 1988. It's probably a throttle body injection
I'm not sure what you're talking about when you say carb engine
Is there any place in this video that I specifically mentioned carb engine I don't remember doing that and if I did maybe I made a mistake this is a throttle body type injection but it's not really a throttle body type injection it's like some kind of cross between throttle body and electronic throttle valve it's called something different with Dodge
@@FordBossMe 8:30
Good stuff sir...
God 45 minutes at 3k rpm parked with no air flow? That’s gotta be damn hard on the engine
Well what ended up happening is I had to replace the trans because I broke the trans
@@FordBossMe did it break due to the the rpms sitting in neutral that long? Would that overheat the TC?
Cool video
These trucks aren’t carbureted sir but love the vids
I know they're not I just call it that because it's got a hybrid throttle body type setup
Indeed it’s like an injected carb lol
BG Product 💪
sorry to hear about the transmission.chrysler never did build many good transmissions.judging by the age of the truck, the original trans most likely took a crap long ago.your probably lucky this one lasted as long as it did.
with the economy the way it is, I don't think I could afford the gasoline to run an engine at 3,000rpm for 45 minutes LOL
You ran the engine at high RPMs in park that's what I am to the transmission for the price of all that stuff you could have did a quick Refresh on the engine
Only problem with the BG service is the cost.
10:30 10th Mountain Division?
Yes
Amazing job! Did I see a 10th Mountain tattoo on you?
Yes
@@FordBossMe I was stationed there from 05-12 with 1/89 CAV and deployed with 1/71 CAV.
@@JohnSample-h6n Wii replace the second ACR down in Fort Polk I was in from 2006 to 2010 2nd Brigade 4th Infantry Regiment
This stuff is potent and made for neglected engines, super harmful on the bearings. That being said in your application there is a lot of placebo going on. It didn't really remove anything that mattered or a regular oil change wouldn't have knocked off. I think this is the primary reason they won't sell it to individuals and only specific shops acquire it. For most people it is "snake oil" that damages bearings and reduces engine life. For the one in a million (over exaggeration) it is a double edged sword that will either kill the motor outright, or give it life. Because some people have serious sludge issues... That being said I still enjoyed the video for curiosity and science!
Any sources on it being bad for bearings? I can understand in principal, but used correctly, it's not diluting the oil that much. It can't be bumping the oil down more than maybe one grade. And since the flush is performed stationary there's no load on the engine.