I rarely comment, but this is one of the best instructional video I have seen in any medium (painting, welding, leather tooling....). You know how to teach.
Wowie, Bill! I followed your example and directions and made a gorgeous hump mold... it's ALMOST dry enough to fire and I am absolutely delighted to have found your video! I'm still quite the newbie at ceramics, but your skill and expertise has enhanced mine! I used a groggy clay body (WC-909) and now that my 1st hump mold adventure seems successful, I'm about to raid second-hand outlets and dollar stores for more forms. Thanks, SO much for sharing your technique! Update... I was successful in making humps molds your way, and I can barely believe how easy it is to lift the objects I formed over them from the molds! I am delighted and I owe you credit for my success. Humbly, I thank you!
Bill, you are a jewel. I've been a potter for decades and I still learn from you. You're such a calm and deliberate teacher. Love the soft paint roller idea. Thank you and keep on teaching as we can all keep on learning.
I just discover your's VDO and there are very beautiful and educationals, it's a gold cave ... Many thanks for ... Sorry for my bad English but it isn't my mother langage.
Glad you liked my comment as it made me check this video out again and I noticed that I wasn't subscribed for whatever reason. I have enjoyed all your past videos and now I have some more to watch that I didn't get to see. Hope you are doing well and enjoying life. Cheers...Freddie
This video contains some very helpful techniques when working with clay to make large hump forms but it also has insights into the best way to dry finished forms made from molds - a great watch!
Thanks. You are a great teacher. I attended one of your workshops years ago, and still use your techniques and tools. My favorite is the "harp" wire cutter.
Really great instructional! Like to see how you glazed it. Finished result. Now I need to buy a wire knife and paint roller. Really excellent tips! Thanks!
Those shallow wooden oval bowls are called bread boards. Many years ago they were carved out of an actual tree trunk and the cook used them to keep her flour in for making biscuits. She would cover with a cloth until the next time. This way she didn't have to keep having to scoop out of the large container which could cause the flour to go stale, so this way she would only have to replace the flour once a week or so. I still use this method myself. Makes it easier.
This is a brilliant video. Thanks so much, Bill. I have a similar question to one below regarding the preparation of the clay: is spiral wedging to remove the air a good idea, or is it a cause of warping in the glaze firing? One of my teachers had me spiral wedge the clay and then turn it sideways to avoid s cracks, but I seemed to have endless issues with warping. Any advice regarding the preparation of the clay would be much appreciated, by us all, I’m guessing.
Hi Bill, I just found this video and I am thankful that you are sharing your ideas etc., with us. I am curious though, when you use a plastic or glass bowl/form in order to create a mold, what do you use as a releasing agent. I realize when you use a wooden bowl in order to make a mold, you don't need a releasing agent. However the clay sticks to the glass or plastic and does not get released. Thank you for your response.
Hey Bill great video full of wonderful information. Is the clay you use your blend or a body that can be purchased? Do you find that the clay body it self plays a part in warping? I make lots of flat ware and battle warping and rim droop constantly. Thanks for the videos, you're a great teacher!
Bill, thanks so much for your videos! You offer such a wealth of awesome tips and tricks, LOVE the paint roller idea, I'll be using that one for sure! Question for you - does your 1/2' slab ever stick to the plastic or glass found object master forms when you're making molds? I've tried many things to prevent - cloth or dry cleaner bags, wd-40, cornstarch...but just wondering if you have any tips on this?
I don’t use any type of releasing agent, Zoe. I allow the slab to dry on the form until it shrinks enough to release itself. BUT… it’s important that the form has a gentle slope vs a severe angle. No more than 45*.
Hi, Robert , No. I’ve never used a releasing agent between the clay & the mold/s. In my experience, if the form angle or slope is 45* or less, the clay will shrink & loosen itself from the mold form without cracking. Using a form that has a sharp upward angle or extreme curve will - in my experience - pinch the slab & cause cause cracking.
Is the clay you use for your master mold different from the clay you use to make the dish? and what type of clay is it that you prefer to use? Thank you 😊
Hello Bill I have difficulty with my large pieces during cooking it deforms that little I lowered the temperature of my oven by 5 degrees and that would be my problem. Or do you have a solution what to look at.
When I put mine on the form to dry. Woke up in the morning and it was cracked. Not sure what I did wrong. It just seemed too tight on the form, and I just cracked. Any thoughts! All the other projects turned out good except this on the form
Sorry for the response delay, man. I’ve been busy making clay stuff🙄. I use a dose of Gorilla Glue to hold things together. Nothing else has worked as well.
Hi Bill, I'm a beginner - at age 60, and self-teaching myself through You-Tube University, and you're a fantastic instructor! Question, why make the master form instead of just using the wood one? I'm thinking .. GR pottery forms are all wood, so I'm curious! Thank you!
Hi Denise, I get your question about making master molds. And I have three answers… One, a clay slab releases far faster from a bisque-fired clay mold vs a wooden one. And in a productive shop, that time matters. Two… I can make myself as many molds as I need for many pressings in a day w/out the expense of purchasing a large quantity of wooden molds. And three… I’m not limited to someone else’s ideas for shapes & forms. Make sense? B.
I just started doing some slab experimenting, is there a trick to keep your clay from sticking to the surface that you roll it on? I tried canvas and it stuck fast to it, I had to let it sit a while before I could get it off the canvas and then the clay cracked a bit when it draped over the mold.
Hi Liza.... I don’t use any releasing agent (cloth or powder) between the mold and the clay. Rather, I allow the pressed-on clay slab to dry on its own until it shrinks enough to loosen itself from the mold form. If I try to separate the two too soon, the pressed clay will warp a lot - or tear. And a note... if your pressed slab of clay develops cracks while drying on the mold, it means your mold is too sharply angled in shape.
I rarely comment, but this is one of the best instructional video I have seen in any medium (painting, welding, leather tooling....). You know how to teach.
Wowie, Bill! I followed your example and directions and made a gorgeous hump mold... it's ALMOST dry enough to fire and I am absolutely delighted to have found your video! I'm still quite the newbie at ceramics, but your skill and expertise has enhanced mine! I used a groggy clay body (WC-909) and now that my 1st hump mold adventure seems successful, I'm about to raid second-hand outlets and dollar stores for more forms. Thanks, SO much for sharing your technique!
Update... I was successful in making humps molds your way, and I can barely believe how easy it is to lift the objects I formed over them from the molds! I am delighted and I owe you credit for my success. Humbly, I thank you!
This is exactly what I’ve been wanting to do! Thanks for the detailed steps. Can’t wait to go find some forms thrifting
Bill, you are a jewel. I've been a potter for decades and I still learn from you. You're such a calm and deliberate teacher. Love the soft paint roller idea. Thank you and keep on teaching as we can all keep on learning.
I just discover your's VDO and there are very beautiful and educationals, it's a gold cave ... Many thanks for ... Sorry for my bad English but it isn't my mother langage.
Thanks Bill. It’s so funny how often I have a question and it turns out you have a video of it. Awesome.
What a fantastic teacher! Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos and share your knowledge with the pottery community.
Honestly, 😅a great teaching video. Thank you very much
You clever chap. Thanks for sharing.
thanks very much, you are an excellent teacher!
Thank you !!
Excellent video, thank you so much!
Bill thank you for sharing your talent, you are amazing and such a wonderful teacher!
I like 👍! You, very smart .
Bill, I like the finishing line you apply inside the rim! That is a nice touch that I can't wait to try.
Wow!! AWESOME..soo many different ways too form a product....love it...
Love all the tips using common household appliances!
GREAT POTTERY
INSTRU TION...
Fantastic tips, thank you so much. That cutting tool is fantastic!
Good note on 45 degree and other tips.
Thanks for sharing!
Glad you liked my comment as it made me check this video out again and I noticed that I wasn't subscribed for whatever reason. I have enjoyed all your past videos and now I have some more to watch that I didn't get to see.
Hope you are doing well and enjoying life.
Cheers...Freddie
I LOVE your attention to detail- great tips! Thanks!
This video contains some very helpful techniques when working with clay to make large hump forms but it also has insights into the best way to dry finished forms made from molds - a great watch!
Thanks. You are a great teacher. I attended one of your workshops years ago, and still use your techniques and tools. My favorite is the "harp" wire cutter.
Thank you, the best, please make a million videos.
Helpful video, many thanks!!
Thanks so much Bill for this video - so detailed so clear I'm making a list of tools I still need to get like a potato peeler!
Great teaching video!
Really great instructional! Like to see how you glazed it. Finished result. Now I need to buy a wire knife and paint roller. Really excellent tips! Thanks!
Excellent tutorial thankyou
I´d love to see the final piece
Wow, amazing, wonderful
Superb content well worth time to view... thanks!
A great and so helpful vidéo. Thanks so much
Brilliant tutorial, very helpful.
Thank you. Am beginner. So helpful
Thank you so much for sharing your talent Bill!!!!🤗
Thanks Bill! Great technique and ideas ♥
Awesome vid
Awesome 👌🏽👌🏽 I’d love to know your idea about my work
Bill, do you ever have problems with clay sticking to your plastic models? Thanks for the great videos
To avoid cracks from shrinking you can put plastic or flower sack dish towel over mold
Thank you, loved the video!
Hermoso tu trabajo gracias por compartiir
Hello Bill, I cannot wait to try this, going to Walmart now to find some objects! :)
Muito lindas suas peças manjo bem praquera
Hi again Bill i try the Gorilla glue as your suggestion and its work well thank you.
Those shallow wooden oval bowls are called bread boards. Many years ago they were carved out of an actual tree trunk and the cook used them to keep her flour in for making biscuits. She would cover with a cloth until the next time. This way she didn't have to keep having to scoop out of the large container which could cause the flour to go stale, so this way she would only have to replace the flour once a week or so. I still use this method myself. Makes it easier.
Wonderful tips!Thanks for sharing!Do you dry the bowl with a plastic sheet on and how long approximately?Thanks
No plastic sheeting involved when finished & drying.
OMG I think I'm in love with you.
This is a brilliant video. Thanks so much, Bill. I have a similar question to one below regarding the preparation of the clay: is spiral wedging to remove the air a good idea, or is it a cause of warping in the glaze firing? One of my teachers had me spiral wedge the clay and then turn it sideways to avoid s cracks, but I seemed to have endless issues with warping. Any advice regarding the preparation of the clay would be much appreciated, by us all, I’m guessing.
Hi Bill, I just found this video and I am thankful that you are sharing your ideas etc., with us. I am curious though, when you use a plastic or glass bowl/form in order to create a mold, what do you use as a releasing agent. I realize when you use a wooden bowl in order to make a mold, you don't need a releasing agent. However the clay sticks to the glass or plastic and does not get released. Thank you for your response.
Hey Bill great video full of wonderful information. Is the clay you use your blend or a body that can be purchased? Do you find that the clay body it self plays a part in warping? I make lots of flat ware and battle warping and rim droop constantly. Thanks for the videos, you're a great teacher!
Merci beaucoup ! :)
Great video, please could you tell me how you stop the clay sticking to the forms and the bisque mold?
Muchas Gracias!!!!
Bill, thanks so much for your videos! You offer such a wealth of awesome tips and tricks, LOVE the paint roller idea, I'll be using that one for sure! Question for you - does your 1/2' slab ever stick to the plastic or glass found object master forms when you're making molds? I've tried many things to prevent - cloth or dry cleaner bags, wd-40, cornstarch...but just wondering if you have any tips on this?
I don’t use any type of releasing agent, Zoe. I allow the slab to dry on the form until it shrinks enough to release itself. BUT… it’s important that the form has a gentle slope vs a severe angle. No more than 45*.
hi Bill did you put something on your wooden form or on plastic form to help to remove your master mold from your form that you find.
Hi, Robert , No. I’ve never used a releasing agent between the clay & the mold/s. In my experience, if the form angle or slope is 45* or less, the clay will shrink & loosen itself from the mold form without cracking. Using a form that has a sharp upward angle or extreme curve will - in my experience - pinch the slab & cause cause cracking.
Thank you so much Bill and bye the way a Very happy new year.
Reminded me of an old episode of Sea Hunt
How you do the molds on the plastic forms? Do you use oil to release or cornstarch or something else? 🤗
Is the clay you use for your master mold different from the clay you use to make the dish? and what type of clay is it that you prefer to use? Thank you 😊
I haven’t heard of bisque firing to cone 08, usually it’s cone 04. Can you explain the difference?
Hello Bill I have difficulty with my large pieces during cooking it deforms that little I lowered the temperature of my oven by 5 degrees and that would be my problem. Or do you have a solution what to look at.
When I put mine on the form to dry. Woke up in the morning and it was cracked. Not sure what I did wrong. It just seemed too tight on the form, and I just cracked.
Any thoughts! All the other projects turned out good except this on the form
Hi Bill what do you use to stick the 2 x 4 to the plaster mold. Thanks for your answer.
Sorry for the response delay, man. I’ve been busy making clay stuff🙄.
I use a dose of Gorilla Glue to hold things together. Nothing else has worked as well.
What kind of clay are u using ? Thanks
Do you cover it overnight?
Hi Bill, I'm a beginner - at age 60, and self-teaching myself through You-Tube University, and you're a fantastic instructor! Question, why make the master form instead of just using the wood one? I'm thinking .. GR pottery forms are all wood, so I'm curious! Thank you!
Hi Denise, I get your question about making master molds. And I have three answers…
One, a clay slab releases far faster from a bisque-fired clay mold vs a wooden one. And in a productive shop, that time matters.
Two… I can make myself as many molds as I need for many pressings in a day w/out the expense of purchasing a large quantity of wooden molds.
And three… I’m not limited to someone else’s ideas for shapes & forms.
Make sense?
B.
@@BillvanGilderPottery Thank you, yes - makes perfect sense!
which clay do you recommend for stoneware?
Great vidio, can you tell me how you attach the wood pedistole to the clay mold?
I’d like to know too, thanks!
Probably either super glue or epoxy that he has on hand
Just asking! Why not just use the found object mould?
I just started doing some slab experimenting, is there a trick to keep your clay from sticking to the surface that you roll it on? I tried canvas and it stuck fast to it, I had to let it sit a while before I could get it off the canvas and then the clay cracked a bit when it draped over the mold.
Hi Liza....
I don’t use any releasing agent (cloth or powder) between the mold and the clay. Rather, I allow the pressed-on clay slab to dry on its own until it shrinks enough to loosen itself from the mold form. If I try to separate the two too soon, the pressed clay will warp a lot - or tear.
And a note... if your pressed slab of clay develops cracks while drying on the mold, it means your mold is too sharply angled in shape.
@@BillvanGilderPottery
OK, thank you very much for your answer. Ppl make it look so easy in the videos!:)
Like having a real lesson at uní
💖💯👏
Why make the molds? Why not just reuse the original?
why not in DUTCH 🤣 willem
Very useful and simple to follow! Thank you! Regards to top-teacher from Finland